Do-it-yourself flat-bottomed boat. How to make a boat with your own hands: wood and plywood are a fisherman’s best friends

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How to make a wooden punt boat with your own hands for small trips on reservoirs. Let's focus on a small model that can be transported in the trunk of a car or in a car trailer.

Characteristics of the boat:

length, m, 2.918;
width, m, 1.052;
height, m, 0.400;
material, wood and plywood;
propulsion, oar and motor (low-power, no more than two Horse power, petrol or electric).

Front view

Back view

Side view

View from above

Bottom view

Detailing of a wooden punt boat:

Central bar
Frames
Nose element
Stern
Seats
Deck

To make the boat we will use plywood of the following brands: FBS; BS; FB, which contains bakelite glue. These grades of material have very high moisture resistance and strength. Plywood is produced in the following types of dimensions AxBxC.

Where:
A– thickness – 5; 7; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 (mm);
IN– width – 1508 (mm);
WITH– length – 5300; 5600 (mm);
Material density – 1200 (kg/m³).

The central beam, frames, bow element, stern, seats are made from plywood eighteen millimeters thick.
The sides are made from plywood ten millimeters thick.
The bottom and deck are made of plywood five millimeters thick.

Assembly order

We fix six frames on the slipway table. From above we insert the central block with grooves onto the frames. We fix the nose element. We secure the stern.

We install spacers between the top edges of each frame. Spacers are necessary to provide structural strength during the assembly of the sides. We attach the left and right sides to the frames. In order for a plywood piece to bend easily, two conditions must be met: moisture and heat, therefore it must be heated with steam or hot water.

We fasten the bottom to the sides with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

We fasten the seats and remove the spacers. We attach the seats to bars screwed to the sides.

We secure the deck. The deck is secured around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

ADVIСE:

1. We fasten the boat parts together with universal self-tapping screws of different lengths.
2. To ensure the waterproofness of the boat, the joints of the structure must be lubricated with glue (VIAM-B\Z).
3. On the outside, we recommend taping the seams with waterproof material.
4. Screw the bottom with screws at intervals of forty centimeters.
5. You can put it on the bottom of the boat wooden gratings, which will rest on the frames.
6. Before painting, the boat must be coated with primer. The easiest way is to cover it with drying oil heated to a boil. Apply the primer both outside and inside.
7. After the drying oil has dried, apply bright colors various colors and shades. We dilute the paint until liquid state, in order to apply it to the surface of the boat two or three times.
8. Coating plywood with nitro paints is not recommended. High-quality surface coating is the key to the durability of your product.

The proposed model, made with your own hands, can comfortably accommodate two fishermen.
As you can see, the proposed model is easy to manufacture, there are only thirteen assembly units and three types of thicknesses of the material used.

DIY projects.
Sailing yachts

"Natalie"	*Cruising dinghy 5.9m, for recreation and tourism.*
"Crucian 500"	Small cruising dinghy 5m long
"Fox 500"	Light yacht 5m long with deckhouse - shelter.
"Natalie600"	Trailer boat made of plywood with a radius chine, 6m long.
"Natalie 695"	*Tourist dinghy 6.95m for recreation and tourism.*
"Altruist"	Small family 4.88m yacht
"Natalie 800M"	Trailer cruising dinghy 8 m long, latrine, galley 4-5 berths.
"Natalie 850"	Cruiser, dinghy, 8.5m long, with all amenities.
"Anastasia 590"	Cruiser 5.9m with all amenities
"Natalie 700"	A family cruiser, 7m long, with all the amenities, a compromise.
"Natalie 625"	Cruising dinghy 6-6.25m long
"Natalie 460"	*Small dinghy, 4.6m long*
"Natalie 850"	The yacht is 8.5m long, with a radial bilge.

Motor boats and boats made of plywood.

Cost of projects

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The type of boat hull determines the type of propeller that is needed to ensure proper operation of a boat of this design in a pond.
There are two main types of carcasses: the movement type and the sliding type.

Sailing ships are relatively slow. They are supported by the mass of water they remove (i.e. static water pressure). Their design features a slightly oriented or rounded feed shape and a sharp or rounded nose shape.

They sit deep in the water, like ocean ships. During operation, the propellers on these boats are completely submerged in the water and have a significantly smaller pitch.

Plane-type aircraft that contain the majority of a recreational vessel operating at low speeds (less than 10 kilometers per hour) as well as a moving hull type.

With sufficient power, these vessels are mounted on the surface of the water and operate in sliding, floating and dynamic pressure (rotation speed) modes of supported water. Skate boat types tend to be larger fleet and more efficient than moving hull boats.

Their design differs from the shear design as their wide trans is essentially at a sharp angle at the base of the boat. The propellers on such ships are often not fully submerged, and with this expansion to the upper speed range comes increased buoyancy and stability, as well as greater propeller pitch and blade angle.

Below is a description of typical housing models for use with external motors and other feed systems.

Example with stepped bottom

In general, an example of a stepped design is the keel body version (with a V-shaped bottom).

This housing design causes cavitation on work surface boats due to the numerous side stairs at the junction with the bottom. Cavitation in the area of lower contact with the water surface reduces braking, which leads to an increase in boat speed.

Kiel (V-shaped) bottom

At this time, the most common lower type of boat design allows for a good degree of combined with a softer turning ability of the boat, which depends on the angle of the V-shaped bottom (the so-called "deadrise angle"), the radius or shape of the keel line and the surface of the dog boat.

To increase the upper limit of speed with a slight loss of softness, smoothness of the sharp keel at the end of the lower part from bow to stern, a trapezoid shape moves in the reference plane (in cross section) [arrow shown, shaded area that runs in the plane of the bow to the stern of the keel (top view )].

To get the desired performance, each boat manufacturer has a different way of deciding on the number of stripes and exactly how they move back (to trans).

The more belts, the higher the lift of the boat from the water and the trimmer along the road, but the progress of the vessel is somewhat more difficult.

Catamaran hull

This form is most popular among competitive sports enthusiasts.

Its bottom differs from the bottom of old catamarans because it is quite sharp. internal corners(between the bottom and walls of the tunnel). It gives you extremely sharp turns/turns on high speeds with a very smooth and soft ride. However, at low speeds some ships with this body structure experience handling problems.

Double catamaran hull

This is a combination of a small keel bottom with two identical tunnels on either side of the central nacelle.

The performance data at the higher speed boundary is generally higher compared with the real body locust, but it is associated with the "rough" path in the turbulent water tank and the lower lifting capacity compared with the conventional V-bottom.

"3-body", arched design

These bodies usually have a keel bottom with additional side pads on both sides; Between the keel and the darkness there are two vaults.

Often these arches are more pronounced in the nose. The advantage of this case is greater stability, especially at rest. The downside is the uneven course with jumps in choppy water.

Flat bottom housing

The flat bottom of a boat from side to bottom without a keel is called a flat bottom.

The plane of intersection of the bottom with the side walls (sides) may have a so-called “bell”. The chimney can be rectangular, sharp (“solid”) or semicircular, rounded (“soft”).

pontoon

The pontoon design has a flat bottom that is supported by two or three pontoons, usually made of aluminum.

This design allows maximum use of the useful surface of the floating object. Pontoons simply move into the water at operating speed, but the front parts must be shaped accordingly.

Boat bottom shape

In order to achieve maximum speed, the bottom of the boat should be as straight as possible in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern for approximately the last 5 feet (1.5 m).

In addition, the angle between the bottom and the trench must be sharp enough to achieve maximum speed and reduce slipping.

The bottom is called "hollow" if it is concave in the longitudinal direction of the axis from bow to stern in side view. The concern detects greater drag at the stern (at the stern) and leads to a lowering of the bow (bow trim).

How to make a boat from boards with your own hands

This increases the wetted area and reduces the speed of the boat, but at the same time promotes gliding and reduces the tilt of the boat for the "dolphin" "Kozlenev" (rhythmic bounce). Often during boat construction, concavity is special.

However, concavity can be caused, for example, by improperly transporting the boat on a trailer or by insufficient storage if there is no support directly under the diameter.

The "rocking chair" is the exact opposite of "swaggering."

The bottom of the boat is convex in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern in the side view. Along the way, the convexity of the bottom may be a consequence of “goat”, “dolphinization”.

Concavity and convex is a multi-faceted area and is especially important in the area from the center to the back (called the critical zone at the bottom) bad influence on the speed of the boat, often leads to a decrease in speed to a high-performance boat, several kilometers per hour.

Installations with one or more motors

On single engine units, right-hand drive units are almost always installed.

It is simply a gift of tradition, but nevertheless it persists with the practice of pleasure craft makers. In this case, the control panel is located with right side boats to compensate for the roll caused by proper rotation of the propeller.

This controls the steering cylinder in both directions when the PLA or other propulsion system is equally driven hydraulic system with trimming. Most ship manufacturers prefer to rotate the propeller "outside" the propeller in the opposite direction from center on both sides, in other words, turning the starboard PLA and the port PLC counterclockwise; while it is assumed that routing is, in general, although not very, an improvement.

In addition, this provides more balanced control in the power operation of only one of the two engines.

Many older people with dual outboards with boats use propellers that spin in the same direction. The disadvantages of such a system include increased steering torque at large angles, both up and down (on boats without power steering), as well as (for example) slight stern drift at the right time when powering the boat's two propellers in very rough water ” makes “the body on the surface and literally floats like air chambers.”

A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogues made of PVC and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - it was used to transport bulky cargo and people through the water. Despite the emergence of a large number of models inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity even today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a watercraft can not only be purchased, but also made with your own hands.

More details about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types there are, what its pros and cons are, as well as how to make such a boat yourself will be discussed in this article.

Device

The craft consists of the following:

of two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2–3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing equipment stored in a box mounted on the stern with a closing lid. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Majority modern models They have a pointed or narrowed shape of the bow, due to which such a boat acquires better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), and has less windage in strong headwinds.

You can move around on a punt either with the help of oars or with mounted screw or water-jet engines mounted on the stern.

Kinds

Depending on the material used to make the punt, they come in the following types:
Wooden is the classic version of this boat. Are being manufactured wooden boats yourself from boards coniferous species(spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such watercraft is their considerable weight, which is why fishermen who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby body of water.

A wooden boat must be made from boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, free from cracks and falling knots

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece structure made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, and ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat yourself. Its price, compared to inflatable analogues, is slightly lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility when low temperatures and very complex DIY repairs.

Plastic models should be used only in the warm season - in cold weather and frosts their body becomes fragile and easily damaged

Metal – such boats are made from aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. Having low weight and constant strength of the body material, independent of air and water temperature, they can be used freely throughout the entire open water season.

An aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sailing on the sea - the lightweight design can easily capsize in a big wave

Advantages and disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - a keel or a flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages, such as:

Stability - due to the large area of contact between the craft and the water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to side waves and wind compared to its keel counterpart;
High maneuverability and carrying capacity - having a shallow draft, such boats allow you to transport up to 5-6 people with a length of 4 m, while moving through shallow water areas;

On a note. By installing an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays and swamps. The design of the unit and the material used to make its propeller allow it to chop up the grass that gets in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

Light weight - plastic and aluminum punts weigh significantly less than wooden and some inflatable boats;
Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimal set of tools and materials. The cost of such a watercraft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.

Thanks to its shallow draft, the punt's maneuverability in shallow waters is higher than that of any boat or keelboat

Making a punt with your own hands

Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, purchasing materials, preparing necessary tools, manufacturing the bottom, sides, stern from boards, fastening them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics and resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

Jigsaw.
Roulette.
Square
Marker.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.

The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, and waterproof paint.

Drawing up a drawing

In order to build a punt boat from planks yourself, you must first of all make clear and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: the sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the need for materials is calculated: boards, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.

The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be visual and understandable - an error in dimensions during the manufacture of the watercraft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Making the bottom

Several boards are placed close to each other, and the contour of the bottom is drawn on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn together in the middle with the longest cross member, after which the bottom is cut out along the outlined contour using a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, leaving areas at the bow and stern uncut.

In the bow and stern parts, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and nylon cord

By tightening the bottom with crossbars, we achieve minimal gaps between its boards

Installation of bow and stern boards

After the bottom is cut to the bow using rough nails or self-tapping screws, a block - the bow board - is attached at a close to right angle. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.

Close to right angle fastening the bow board will allow you to evenly distribute the force of the oncoming flow of water acting on the bow as the boat moves

Fastening to the bottom of the sides

The first two boards on the right and left sides are first nailed to the bow board, then bent along the contour of the bottom and tied together with a strong cord at the stern. After this, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.

When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards parallel to the crossbars, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom.

To prevent the sides from moving, the boards of the starboard and port sides are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the starboard or port side completely.

With a boat length of 3.5–4 meters, it is necessary to have at least 2 bulkheads to which the side boards are sewn

Treatment of the bottom and sides

All cracks in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the wood of the bottom from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

Flat-bottomed plywood boat

A ring for a chain or mooring rope is installed in the bow.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A punt boat is made from plywood using a simpler technology than its analogue from boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and a bow are cut out of a sheet of plywood using a jigsaw. Then, using special glue, first the right side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the stern part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow part is attached at an obtuse angle (120–130°). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the craft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is coated with two layers of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, compared to one made from boards, has such advantages as light weight, low costs for purchasing materials, and ease of manufacture.

The following video will tell you more about how such a punt boat is made with your own hands:

On a note. Punts are not only homemade, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as “SAVA” 270, “SAVA” 370, Liman”, “Tortilla-2”, “Kazanka 6M” are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more spacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made from both boards and moisture-resistant plywood. In addition to homemade boats, there is a large selection of factory models of plastic and aluminum punts on sale.

General issues

Outdoor recreation, hunting or fishing in an area surrounded by bodies of water is an activity that is impossible without a floating device, so a boat is not a luxury, but an urgent necessity. Buying your own mini-ship can make a significant dent in your budget, which is why few people are attracted to this option. However, the exorbitant prices of small boats do not become an insurmountable obstacle for enthusiasts, since making a boat with your own hands is much easier than it might seem at first glance. Self-created designing a practical small vessel is an entertaining process, but it requires a serious approach from the author of the future boat.

Selecting materials and type of boat is the first step

This is not to say that the future builder has a lot of options, but there is a choice. A homemade boat can be made from:

aluminum;
wood;
plastic;
rubber (rubberized fabric);
become;
plywood.

There is no ideal material, each of them has its own advantages and is not without its disadvantages, but most often craftsmen choose wood and its “colleagues”, since the advantages of these options are undoubted. This:

environmental friendliness, light weight;
buoyancy, reliability, strength;
noiselessness, maneuverability;
relatively low cost;
long service life with proper processing of the material and storage of the vessel;
the ability to use oars, install a motor and/or sail.

There are two types of wooden boats:

keel structures;
flat-bottomed (round-bottomed) vessels.

The latter are held in greater esteem by fishermen, since punt boats have better stability, allowing them to hunt fish even while standing. These boats are easy to turn around, and there is enough space for everything that fishing fans need: both gear and a very large catch.

Self-made keel mini-vessels are distinguished by better maneuverability in difficult sections, speed, and practicality. However, these boats are more demanding, since passengers and the “driver”-rower first need to learn how to maintain balance, correctly distributing the center of gravity.

Features of wooden “boat work”

The creators of these boats have several requirements that will have to be taken into account. Among them:

Ability to handle wood, knowledge of all the nuances. This concept includes optimal choice boards, the ability to calculate in advance the future maximum loads on the wood, as well as awareness of how the workpieces bend.
Correct choice of other materials: in addition to wood, you will need means to protect it from leaks, from the harmful effects of water, elements to hold all the parts of the structure together.
Availability of space for assembly. Since all the blanks and the vessel itself are quite large in size, and assembly will take a beginner a lot of time, you need a room or area that is reliably protected from rain.
The need to have all the tools to work with wood.
At least one assistant will definitely be needed.

This is a minimum list of what is needed, so other conditions may arise as you work.

Correct dimensions and drawing

They are a separate discussion, because the weight, capacity, carrying capacity and stability of a small vessel on the water depend on the size. If we write about recommendations, they are as follows:

Side height. The optimal value is 500 mm, but no one prohibits a slight change up or down.
Length. This parameter depends on how many people will be in the boat at the same time. If the craft is designed for one person, then a length of 1800-2500 mm is enough. For a duet of “seafarers”, 3000 mm is needed, for 3-5 people 3500-4000 mm is enough. The latest design can accommodate six people, but in this case the question is different - the comfort of such a large company.
Width. Here the recommended value is 1000-1500 mm, but it must be taken into account that the maximum figure will significantly reduce maneuverability, but will make the vessel more stable. You need to take into account the weight of people, the potential cargo that will be transported on the boat, and the length of the craft.

Based on the recommended (or chosen by the builder) dimensions, it is necessary to make a drawing. If the master is not strong in drawing up such diagrams, it is better to focus on ready-made, proven sketches, which are easy to find on the Internet: just enter search engine just two words - “boat drawing”, and then switch to “Pictures”.

Preparation: tools, materials

After theory, practice begins - purchasing materials and finding all the necessary tools. The main thing for a boat is the boards. In this case, it is better to buy spruce, larch or pine lumber that does not have cracks or knots that might fall out. Those that hold tight do not pose a threat to the future ship. It’s easy to check their reliability; just hit them with a hammer or sledgehammer. The optimal wood is one that has been stored in a dry place for at least a year and has been lying on a flat surface for the entire period.

The rest list includes:

wood antiseptic;
beam for spacers and triangular - for the bow of the boat;
water-repellent paint - Pentacryl, Progress, Raptor (for cars), brushes (spray gun);
nails (preferably galvanized self-tapping screws) of different lengths and a hammer for them;
primer;
low power drill, screwdriver;
glue (polyurethane), its replacement is resin, a syringe for application in hard-to-reach places;
varnish (yacht) - Alpina Yachtlack, Belinka Yacht, Eskaro Marine lakk 90, Premia;
sheet metal for the bottom and fastening elements of the boat;
sandpaper (or grinder);
file;
tow (sealant);
paracord (Kevlar, nylon, polypropylene) - for attaching the sides of the boat the desired shape;
roulette;
clamps;
jigsaw (hacksaw).

Making a wooden punt

How to make a boat with your own hands, reliable, strong, unsinkable? There is only one answer: all stages require precise implementation, since haste, any shortcomings, and the traditional Russian hope “at random” are contraindicated. Attention even to the “small details” is a necessary condition.

Manufacturing of boards

First, according to the drawing, all the blanks are cut out. The parts, including the sides, are processed with a file, and then sandpaper. Impregnated with antiseptic.
On one side of the side boards, a cut is made at an angle of 15-30°, then the ends are chamfered to ensure an ideal fit (without gaps) of the workpieces in the bow.
The bow of the boat is fixed with a triangular beam, attaching it with nails or self-tapping screws to the junction of the boards with inside after a perfect fit. The edges of the contacting parts are first impregnated with an antiseptic, then lubricated with glue (resin).
They call an assistant and give the sides of the boat the desired shape using paracord or its replacement. The sides are tied with a cord, having previously installed spacers between them of the same width as the future boat. The rope is then tightened.
Attaching the transom ( rear element boats - flat stern). It is connected to the sides using glue (resin) and self-tapping screws (nails).

Creating and fixing the bottom

The bottom is made of wood (it is better to find a wide massive board), waterproof plywood (FSF, 12 mm) or sheet metal.

If a metal sheet is used, then the part is cut out so that its dimensions exceed the bottom by several centimeters. They are needed for attachment to the bottom of the sides. Since leaks are the biggest threat here, all joints are generously coated with glue or resin, and tow is used. The edges of the metal are bent using a hammer. Self-tapping screws are planted in increments of 15-20 mm along the entire perimeter of the boat.
If found wooden plank(plywood), then an element of the desired shape is cut out of the material, and then they act in the same way - treated with glue or resin, tow and fasteners are used.

Final processing of the material

Now the elements of the boat are again generously treated with an antiseptic, and all potential gaps are eliminated using tow or sealant. Then they prime twice, apply paint in several layers, each of them is given time to dry.

Then the vessel is coated with varnish, also in 2-3 layers. Final stage- installation of can benches, installation of triangles for the stern, they are processed - primed and painted (varnished) - separately. At this point, the production of the punt boat is considered complete.

Checking the water tightness of the boat

This operation is necessary to ensure the reliability of the vessel before its first long voyage. There are several ways to do this, but it is better to conduct a comprehensive test.

Inspection at the construction site. In order to ensure the quality of the work, the boat is turned upside down and placed on a long bench or on several stools. Then they pour it on her a large number of water from a hose. The recommended duration of this test is 5-10 minutes. The boat is turned over and inspected for leaks.
Testing a mini-ship in big water. If a homemade punt has not proven itself to be a leaky trough at the “shipyard,” then it is first sent for free swimming to shallow depths. When the first water tests are successful within 30 minutes, the boat is ready for any body of water.

They can be useful for those who do not like to make mistakes in their work, which always require additional effort to correct them. Therefore, some recommendations can (and should) be “wound up” in advance:

during production homemade boat It’s better not to skimp on the quality of materials, since best wood- synonymous with the longevity of the future own watercraft;
It is recommended to cut all blanks with a small margin, because it is much easier to cut off the excess, otherwise you will have to cut out a new element;
sealant, glue, resin or tow - something that needs to be purchased in large quantities, the joints of the sides with the bottom are especially important;
in all wooden parts For fastening, you need to pre-drill several holes smaller diameter than with nails or self-tapping screws, the goal is to prevent possible cracking of the material.

Plywood boat

Plywood floating craft has its advantages, which include:

light weight, since the lightweight version of such a boat weighs only 10-15 kg, and such a vessel is quite easy to carry even with two people;
maximum capacity is 5 people, but it all depends on the chosen project;
the durability of the mini-ship, but only if the technology is followed;
affordable price of all required materials.

If the master has a desire, but can’t find any reason to abandon his plan, then he just needs to allocate free time to create a boat.

Materials, tools

Furniture plywood (FK) is not suitable for the construction of this vessel, so you need to purchase one of the following brands: BK (impregnation - bakelite varnish), BS (bakelite glue) or, if it is not possible to buy BK and BS, FSF (resin formaldehyde glue). It is necessary to pay close attention to the quality of the material: cracks are not allowed at the ends, and there are no knots or other defects on the surface. Thick plywood is not suitable, since the sheet must be able to bend, so the maximum (or optimal) thickness is 6-9 mm. Other necessary materials and tools:

timber - high-quality, dry;
larch slats - for the keel and stringers (longitudinal stiffeners);
fiberglass in rolls;
waterproof paint;
primer and putty (also waterproof);
epoxy adhesive;
yacht varnish;
pencil;
copper wire (paper clips);
chisel;
wire cutters;
hammer;
pliers;
plane;
roulette;
self-tapping screws;
clamps;
Grinder;
putty knife;
jigsaw, files (for curved cutting).

Plywood structure drawing

It’s simpler and easier to choose a ready-made sample, which can be found on the Internet without any problems. But before “hunting” for him, you need to think about a few details. These include:

The appearance of the boat, its shape.
Capacity of the future vessel and its dimensions.
Level of design complexity. It is better for newcomers to “shipbuilding” to look towards simple models.

After a drawing you like is found, the master has the right to slightly correct it: for example, change the size or shape of some elements.

The simplest of the drawings is the one in which all the parts are placed on 1 plywood sheet.

First, the axial (longitudinal) line is marked on it, then those located between the letters A, B, and C. Half of the bottom is transferred to paper, cut out, then the pattern is applied to the second half of the sheet, outlined with a pencil so that the bottom is symmetrical.
Draw a line separating the transom from it. The bottom is cut out with a jigsaw first, the rear side follows.
In a similar way, they draw and then cut out the side boards: mark one element, put it on the second blank, then both are immediately clamped in clamps and cut out. The cut areas of all workpieces are treated with sandpaper.
The slats for the keel and stiffeners (stringers) are cut out, then they are ground.

If you are not satisfied small sizes watercraft, then two sheets of plywood are glued together before the cutting operation, treating the joints first with a plane and then with a grinding machine. A weight is placed on the resulting seam.

Assembling boat elements

The step-by-step process of connecting parts looks like this:

Holes are drilled in the lower part and on the sides of the transom, their diameter is 1.5 mm, pitch is 150 mm. Do the same with the bottom from the stern side. Both parts are connected with wire, twists are made from the outside.
The bottom is laid on 3 stools, and boards or books are placed on the outer chairs to ensure the required deflection. The assistant's name is. Together, holes with the same diameter and pitch are made along the edges of the side and sides of the bottom.
The side elements are attached with wire to the bottom and transom. After checking the geometry of the boat, the staples are set with a chisel on internal joints. Temporary spacers are inserted between the sides in the places where partitions (frames) and bench seats will be installed. They are temporarily secured with self-tapping screws.
All joints are glued three times with fiberglass using epoxy glue. The width of the first strip is 25 mm, the second is 40, and the third is 50 mm. All twists of wire with outside Before gluing, the outside is bitten off and the joints are rounded.
Temporary struts are removed, frames and cans are installed. The holes from the self-tapping screws are “masked” with wooden dowels mounted on epoxy glue.
The slats intended for the keel and stringers are secured with glue and screws, then placed under a press.

Finishing work

First, sandpaper is used to remove all the irregularities that appeared “thanks” to the epoxy glue. Defects or all surfaces are puttied, then the boat is primed. The last stage is painting and/or varnishing.

How to make a boat with your own hands? Not difficult, but not too basic either. You can verify this if you look at all the stages through the eyes of a master. For example, this video, divided into 9 parts, will help you to see the reality of solving the problem:

It so happened that at the dacha we always had three boats: a metal cauldron and two wooden punts. Kazanka is on the water every year, and of the punts, one is on the water, and the second is for cleaning and painting. Next year it will be the other way around. About five years ago, during a fire, a boat that was lying under the house along with the house burned down. Rebuilt after the fire.

And the only punt, which was now painted in the spring, and then launched into the water as quickly as possible (because, you see, they really want to go fishing), began to gain physical wear and tear extremely quickly. The question arose that we still need to make a second one. Dad and brother-in-law spent a long time looking for a larch board the right size and in the end they found a blank for boards of a smaller section at the sawmill, which had not yet been unraveled. Purchasing waterproof plywood was already a matter of technology.

Two boards, trimmed slightly at an angle, 15 degrees (by eye), drilled holes in the edges and laced them with wire (copper 2.5 sq. mm. but this is completely unimportant). Next, straining all the sphincters, we pulled the middle apart and spread it open with a bar.

I was not going to participate in the work; my father and brother-in-law built it, because the boat is a fishing boat, and I am not a fisherman at all. But when they were working nearby, I couldn’t resist, and besides, I have more carpentry experience, purely technically. Only dad knew the technology in theory. He and his grandfather built more than one, and perhaps not two, boats twenty or thirty years ago.

The spacers gradually fell into place.

The bow and stern (the abutting parts) have taken shape, all joints are sealed quite generously. Quite a hemorrhoidal fit, for the first time, at least for sure.

It's hot. Plywood 12 mm.

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to take care of its most important parts - sides. For this purpose, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with slight pressure on top to avoid their bending.

We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure the required length (here, as well as further, specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow part.

Next, they need to be planed, and chamfered from the sawn ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
We impregnate these areas, and subsequently all others that will not be available for painting after assembling the structure, with a protective layer of antiseptic.

After this, we proceed to making the base of the nose - a triangular block. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The timber is also planed and covered with a protective layer.

Don’t forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all excess will be cut off.

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to assembly. We start from the bow, firmly connect both sides and the triangular block with screws or nails.

We cut off the protruding parts at the top and bottom flush with the sides.

It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The spacer angle should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides; here you will need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adhere to it without gaps.

So, removing it little by little, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail down the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you want. It is better to do it in the form of a triangle.

Then we proceed to install the permanent braces and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (and in other places, in general), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We complete the very important initial stage by chamfering the bottom of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating to them.

After the impregnation and wood glue have dried, you can begin making its bottom. For this we need a smooth galvanized sheet. It is desirable that its length matches the length of the vessel. True, choosing one is not easy, the fact is that construction stores mainly sell small sheets (1.2x2m, 1.5x2), and they are very reluctant to cut off large rolls. If you can't reach an agreement, take what you have. The bottom can be made from two sheets, but it will just be a little more complicated.

Using metal scissors, cut out a piece corresponding to the size of the bottom from the purchased galvanized steel. To make it easier to determine the length and width, we place the boat on a sheet and outline it with a marker, with a small margin of 1.2-2 cm, just in case.

Next we need to prepare the lower parts of the sides. We apply sanitary with a gun silicone sealant a small layer in the form of a continuous winding thread. Then we lay a special cord directly on it in two rows. All this will reliably protect the bottom of the boat from leaking in the future.

If there is no sealant, replace it regular paint, if there is no thread, put in tow.

Having completed this, carefully place the cut piece of tin on the boat, align it and begin to fasten it.

For fastening, you can use galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails. IN in this case we fasten using a method proven over the years - i.e. nails (1.8x32). We start work from the middle and move towards the edges. The work is monotonous and tedious, but there is no need to rush - protruding nails will not add beauty.

How often you need to prick them is shown in the photo.

We cut off those places where the tin protrudes beyond the edges by more than 5 mm. We tap the rest with a hammer, bending it onto the side.

The bow of the boat needs protection; we cover it with the same tin. We measure and cut out the desired piece in the form of a rectangle.

On that part of the sides that will be covered with galvanized steel, pre-impregnated with antiseptics (in general, by this time the boat needs to be covered with at least one layer of impregnation), we apply sealant with thread. After this, we apply the sheet as shown in the photo and nail it.

The edges of the tin should not extend beyond the triangle nose, otherwise the nails will come out.

We lay the galvanized sheets on top and bottom on top of each other, cutting off the excess and also fastening them with nails. The result will be a great nose, just a very sharp one. Therefore, we crumple or cut off its tip, so as not to damage swampers or fishing gear on it later.

A new boat on a pond will definitely attract attention; in order to somehow protect it from attacks or to prevent it from being carried away by the current, we make a fastening for a chain in the bow. For this we need a long bolt or pin. We drill a hole in the sides exactly along the diameter of the pin, secure it, and saw off the excess with a hacksaw.

The boat is almost ready. We cover it with an additional 2 layers of impregnation and leave it to dry in the shade.

If you wish, you can immediately take care of protecting the bottom of the boat by covering it with paint. Galvanization on the outside, in contact with water, deteriorates over time without additional coating.

To make it comfortable to walk on the tin bottom and not rattle, it is necessary to provide wood flooring. He can be the most various designs. For example this one.

Now we can confidently say that the boat is ready! A boat with a galvanized bottom is much lighter than one with a wooden one, and during operation it will be easier to prepare it for the next season after wintering. In terms of strength, it is in no way inferior to others. For example, after 10 years of use, my previous old boat’s sides rotted, but the bottom was okay.

Yes, and one more thing - do not skimp on the antiseptic, it is this, and not paint, that resists the destruction of wood much better.

If you end up with something similar or even better, you can be congratulated on your success.

I present several final photos of different people:

Based on materials from: grossoxota.ru

Video lessons on making boats with your own hands

Plywood boat

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