Do-it-yourself punt for a motor. How to build a wooden punt boat

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A fishing boat is a small boat that allows you to fish in a quiet, cozy place remote from the shore, store and transport fishing gear and equipment, and, if necessary, transport cargo. Many fans of fishing prefer products made from natural material, for example from wood. They are bought ready-made, ordered, or made by hand.

Brief instructions on how to make a wooden boat will help a fisherman who knows how to use carpentry tools to make it himself.

Wooden boats have the following advantages:

production from environmentally friendly materials (usually from softwood logs);
a light weight;
durability and reliability afloat;
maneuverability;
buoyancy;
noiselessness;
possibility of installing an outboard or stationary motor, sails, use with oars;
long service life if properly stored;
low cost compared to other devices.

There are 2 types of wooden boats:

oblique, or keeled;
flat-bottomed.

Punts are in great demand among fishing fans. They are convenient and comfortable; gear and accessories are located near the fisherman. Boats have high stability and safety, they turn freely on the pond and do not tip over.

Skewed boats with a keel bottom have better maneuverability in difficult places, are distinguished by speed and practicality. In order not to scoop up water over the side, you need to learn how to correctly distribute the center of gravity.

Buy or make it yourself

Wooden boats are rare on the domestic market. More often they are made to order by craftsmen. The work is completed within 4-5 days, sometimes faster. Price vehicle will be determined depending on what length and width you want the boat to be: it can be made single or multi-seat. Before ordering a vessel self made receive information about the artist, look at previous products, and communicate with other clients.

If the process of manufacturing wooden boats is carried out on your own, it is possible to reduce financial costs. In addition, you can get great pleasure from the work done.

Manufacturing process

The construction of a fishing boat consists of 5 stages, these are:

Structural design.
Preparation necessary materials(boards, tools).
Manufacturing and assembly.
Boat tarring or caulking.
Testing.

Blueprints

Getting started self-production, it is better to purchase special literature on the topic of how to build a wooden boat, study the main components, design diagrams and drawings. Experts recommend making patterns on sheets of paper or using 3D modeling programs. The structure is divided into subassemblies and units. Details from the drawings must be readable, designations and dimensions must be shown, and the scale must be maintained.

Based on the parameters of the main parts of the boat, the amount of material required is calculated.

Materials and tools

To work, you will need to purchase wide and long spruce or pine boards. Cracks, burrs, and knots are not allowed.

Some craftsmen advise purchasing logs earlier, then placing them on a dry, flat surface under pressure for a while to avoid deformation.

List necessary tools:

Roulette.
Ruler.
Square.
Plane.
Screwdriver.
Fastening elements (self-tapping screws, screws, nails or screws).
Hammer.
Chisel.
Jigsaw.
Hammer.
Bulgarian.
Clamping vice.

List of materials that will be required for work:

Putty.
Oil paints.
Oil varnish or drying oil.
Antiseptic.
Glue.

Do not forget about safety measures during the manufacture of the structure. For this purpose, use protective plastic glasses and comfortable, well-fitting gloves.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

A wooden boat consists of the following parts:

Rear side.

To make the nose part, the following operations are performed:

Take boards without defects and measure the length according to the calculated dimensions.
The edge is sawed off at 45° and planed.
A chamfer is removed near the sawn edges. When pressing the boards, there should be no gap between them.
The ends are coated with a protective antiseptic substance.
The base of the bow is made of a triangular beam, taking into account that the length should be 1.5 times the height of the vessel. The timber is planed and treated with an antiseptic.
2 sides and a base are assembled, lubricated with wood glue and fastened with nails or screws.
All excess protrusions are cut off.

Algorithm of actions for building a tailgate:

Choose a board 5 cm thick.
The sides are made from the boards. A margin is left at the top and bottom for subsequent processing.
Stiffening ribs are inserted between the structures according to the boat diagram with your own hands. Their length is equal to the width of the craft, the height is similar to the height of the sides, otherwise the side elements will burst when bent.
To bend the sides you will need 2 assistants. The edges of the side boards are attached to the stern; at this time, assistants carefully bend the side parts using a rope. Marks are made where the chamfer needs to be removed so that there are no gaps. Then they chamfer according to the marks, try them on and adjust them.
The joints are treated with an antiseptic and connected with glue, screws or self-tapping screws.
Excess material in the lower part of the stern is sawed off and the top is formed.
IN wooden boats holes are made with a drill for the engine on the rear side, seats and permanent spacers in the sides. Then the jumpers and seats are installed. The engine is attached after assembling the entire structure.

To create a bottom in a wooden boat, use a galvanized sheet fits better Total. The frame is placed on it with the bottom down, outlined with a pencil with a margin of 1.5 cm and cut out with a special tool. Then the craft is turned over, chamfered from the side parts and spacers adjacent to the bottom, and treated with an antiseptic.

After the impregnation has dried, apply from below silicone sealant, lay tow or wire threads on it in 2 rows to prevent leakage.

After leveling the metal workpiece, the bottom is attached with self-tapping screws to the press washer; you can use nails, moving from the center of the vessel to the edges. In areas with metal protrusions of more than 5 cm, trim and bend the sheet to the sides, tapping with a hammer along the entire perimeter. Sheet metal is mounted to the bow to protect against corrosion.

A mooring beam is glued along the sides along the upper edge, protecting it from damage when mooring to berths and other vessels. The keel, which ensures safety when turning, especially in devices with motors, is mounted to the bottom and placed along midline. It can be made from several slats.

After complete assembly the structure must be tarred or caulked, then painted. Resin treatment occurs only inside the vessel. This requires heated resin. To improve viscosity add a little machine oil. The resin is poured into all cracks, previously cleaned of dirt, and left to dry for 12 hours. Then it is treated with drying oil. Painting is done after the product is completely dry.

Final testing of the boat

The final step is to conduct leak tests. Testing is carried out both at home and in the pond. If it is possible to install a boat on a support on the territory of a private house, it is turned over, filled with a large amount of water from a hose, then set in its original position and checked for leaks.

When testing on a river or pond, you should not swim to great depths for about 1 hour. After a control check and there is no water in the fishing boat, it is ready for operation.

Despite the fact that you can buy a fishing boat in almost any fishing store, it is much more profitable in terms of material and practical side make a boat out of plywood with your own hands.

And although for production homemade boat It will take a lot of time and effort, but you can be proud of the result for a long time. It's always nice to know that something was made with your own hands.

Necessary tools and materials

You can take ready-made drawings on how to make a boat from plywood:

punts;
kayaks;
with motor;
sailing

Even if you don’t like any of the drawings, you can always design the boat yourself. But the ability to competently construct drawings will not be superfluous, otherwise you will end up not with a boat, but with a pile of firewood. Options for drawings are presented in the photo.

To create a homemade plywood boat you will need the following set of tools:

jigsaw;
saw;
screwdriver;
hammer;
Sander;
set of clamps;
set of brushes.

As for materials, the main component of the structure, of course, is plywood. Waterproof boat plywood is best, but if you don't have that on hand, you can use sheets of birch veneer plywood. In this case, the thickness of the sheets must be at least 5 mm, and some structural elements, for example, the bottom, keel and frames, must be 10-16 mm thick.

In addition to plywood, you will need to use wood to construct the frame of the struts, floor grating, seats and other things.

All seams and joints must be coated with glue, polymer resins, epoxy resin or similar means to ensure the tightness of the boat.

Also important materials are impregnations, varnishes, paints and drying oils. After all, the ship, firstly, must have a decent appearance, and secondly, it must not rot after the first foray into a body of water.

Making boats from plywood

It is worth noting that the construction of a boat from plywood can only be done from high-quality sheets that do not have surface defects such as knots, cracks and delaminations. It is advisable to use the largest sheet dimensions. Large plywood is easier to work with and the structure is more durable. But often there is no suitable plywood available, and you have to glue two sheets together. To do this, the ends of the two sheets to be glued are ground down at an acute angle so that the length of the bevel is equal to at least seven sheet thicknesses. This gluing is called “on the mustache”. The bevels are carefully coated with glue and pressed against each other with a set of clamps.

Using the drawings you found or created yourself, you can begin marking the materials. At this stage, it is important to keep all dimensions exactly. A deviation from the drawing of at least 1 mm will lead to the formation of cracks at the joints and, accordingly, the structure will become vulnerable. For convenience, you can use patterns that are applied to the plywood and traced. The photo shows an example of such a pattern.

So, using a jigsaw and a saw, cut out each structural element. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the workpieces - the angles of joining the surfaces should be observed. To create a backboard, you will have to glue together several layers of plywood to achieve the design thickness and, as a result, the required strength. This will significantly make the structure heavier, but it is necessary measure(especially if you plan to mount it for a motor). The same should be done with frames.

Homemade boats made from plywood for a motor require additional strengthening of the rear side by gluing it with fiberglass and reinforcing it with hard wood.

To strengthen the structure, it is recommended that transoms and frames be additionally fixed using galvanized or tinned screws. However, do not forget that the length of the screw should in no case exceed the thickness of the parts being fastened.

For convenience, the transom is placed on trestles and the bottom and sides are attached to it. The ends should be brought together from the nose. The elements are fastened with glue and suture materials. If as a result of this operation the structural parts do not come together, then everything will have to be disassembled and the frames cut off. Therefore, it is better to try everything on in advance.

In the case of creating a homemade punt, the task is simplified as much as possible. The punt structure can only take 2-3 hours to assemble by a skilled enthusiast. Since there are no complex geometric shapes, the work can easily be completed by just one worker, without spending much physical effort.

Particular attention will only need to be paid to the joints and gratings of the floor made of wooden slats. The flooring is necessary because the bottom of the boat is very vulnerable to the deformation load received from the soles of shoes.

Seam taping

A do-it-yourself plywood motorboat requires special attention and control when gluing all the seams of the structure. The photo shows the final results of gluing the seams.

Sizing steps:

Preparation of a sealing composition based on Aerosil and epoxy resin in a 1:1 ratio.
All corner joints are reinforced with wooden fillets (they act as stiffeners).
All joints from the inside are carefully coated with a sealing compound, and strips of fiberglass are glued on top.
After complete drying, frames are installed, which are secured with glue and screws.
Now the lining of the floor grating on the bottom begins.
Installation of seats, rowlocks and others structural elements according to the drawing.
After all joints and surfaces have completely dried, the boat can be removed from the gantry.

Painting work

The final, but no less important stage of boat construction is painting. Before you begin painting, it is necessary to prepare all surfaces and joints by sanding and degreasing.

After this, it is necessary to thoroughly coat every centimeter of the surface with wood impregnation. It is recommended to use impregnation for river or sea vessels.

Now you can start painting. Painting work is usually carried out with a hard brush, but the use of spray guns is also allowed. It is recommended to use enamels intended for painting ships as paint. The durability of the boat directly depends on the quality of the painting work.

If you approach the task wisely, you can quite simply build a boat with your own hands, both for fishing and for comfortable rest for the whole family.

The easiest way is to build a punt for fishing. The boat will be especially effective and practical if waterproof plywood is used as the material, and the rear side is equipped with a motor mount. The stages of constructing a punt can be seen in the video.

The motor boat is perfect for use on rivers and lakes. But at sea, a homemade motor punt should be used only with full confidence in the quality of the assembly.

A motor boat made of waterproof plywood can serve its owner for many years.

A boat is an indispensable thing if you want to go fishing or just spend time with friends or family on the river. This is a great device for a walk or even a whole water adventure that you can do yourself.

If you are interested in the technology by which you can make a punt boat from plywood yourself, the drawings presented in this article and the recommendations will be useful to you in your work.

Making a simple boat from plywood is the most budget method get a boat. To do this, you just need to stock up on everything you need, including tools and drawings, as well as show a little patience and diligence. Otherwise, making such a product will not be difficult for you, the main thing is to strictly follow the prepared drawing.

What do you need for work?

The material on which the structure is created is, of course, plywood. It consists of veneer layers glued with phenolic glue, which are pressed in production. There are several types, but not every type of plywood is suitable for making a boat with your own hands.

Note! The highest quality and waterproof plywood is marked FSF. It is usually made of birch veneer. When using it, you can achieve reliability and quality from your future product. As a result, you will spend significantly less effort on sanding and finishing your boat.

If for some reason you are unable to obtain quality plywood trademark, buying not too much high quality products, pay special attention to the execution of the end parts on the sheets. The absence of through cracks, knots, holes and defects is a sign of a standing material.

The quality of the chosen plywood will depend on:

the quality level of the product itself;
performance characteristics of the boat;
cost of finishing work;
time spent on finishing work;
volumes of required material;
number of seams in the finished boat.

Therefore, you must treat your choice with maximum responsibility. For individual parts yours flat-bottomed boat Bars or boards may be required; it is advisable that they be dried and completely free of all flaws and damage.

To cover the boat, fiberglass is used, sold in rolls. You can cut it into pieces required size, which will be convenient for gluing joints and seams. A single piece will be more appropriate for processing the bottom.

Varnish, glue and paint are used to protect the boat from moisture. It is best if the varnish is ship-grade and the paint is not water-based.

To make brackets for your boat, you can use plastic clamps and copper wire. Any other material will also work, which can then be easily removed.

List of tools:

jigsaw electrical action and a set of files for it;
sander;
hammer and plane;
clamp;
tape measure for measurements, a metal ruler and a simple pencil for marking;
brushes for applying varnish and glue;
spray gun for working with paint;
a spatula that will help level the fiberglass during the gluing procedure.

Boat manufacturing work: splicing method

After you have selected the appropriate drawings and prepared all the necessary tools, you can begin making the boat.

Note! In the event that you cannot find the plywood of the size required for your boat, it can be joined together using plywood miter splicing technology.

Sheet splicing technology:

Sheets of material must be laid on top of each other, mark a line of the mustache (its length is ten to twelve thicknesses of a plywood sheet).
To obtain an even and high-quality result, it is recommended to secure the material using clamps and a limit bar. It is along this bar that the mustache will be formed. Make sure you don't have sharp changes along the length of this line.
The formed mustache must be sanded with a machine to an ideal state, constantly combining and adjusting the sheets.
Apply to the mustache area adhesive composition, after which the plywood sheets must be stacked on top of each other with the treated surfaces and secured with clamps, placing weights on top to ensure complete gluing.
Excess glue must be removed immediately, without waiting for it to dry.
After the glue has dried, you can remove the clamps and leave the product alone for 24 hours until the glue completely hardens.

Remaining glue needs to be cleaned off sandpaper to even out the seam and make it less noticeable.

First, you need to mark the bottom on plywood, first laying it out on a flat surface. Based on your drawing, draw the centerline of the boat, after which you can place a grid on the basis of which the contours of the future product are marked.

To ensure a tight fit of the joints, chamfers can be made at the edges of the plywood junction. A grinding machine is suitable for this. After this, you can sew the parts together using staples and clamps. The procedure should begin from the stern, gradually moving to the bow of the boat, slowly bending the plywood. Both the sides and the transom are secured.

The next stage is checking the geometric dimensions of the structure. After which you need to tighten the clamps more tightly, place spacers in the places where the frames are mounted to fix all the parts.

The seams are glued from the inside of the product. To do this, you need to take glue and fiberglass, which must be cut in advance into strips 7 cm wide. Using a brush, apply the adhesive to the joint, glue the fiberglass and level it with a spatula, removing bubbles and wrinkles. The seams need to be taped two or three times.

General issues

Outdoor recreation, hunting or fishing in an area surrounded by bodies of water is an activity that is impossible without a floating device, so a boat is not a luxury, but an urgent necessity. Buying your own mini-ship can make a significant hole in the budget, which is why few people are attracted to this option. However, the exorbitant prices of small boats do not become an insurmountable obstacle for enthusiasts, since making a boat with your own hands is much easier than it might seem at first glance. Self-created designing a practical small vessel is an entertaining process, but it requires a serious approach from the author of the future boat.

Selecting materials and type of boat is the first step

This is not to say that the future builder has a lot of options, but there is a choice. A homemade boat can be made from:

aluminum;
wood;
plastic;
rubber (rubberized fabric);
become;
plywood.

There is no ideal material, each of them has its own advantages and is not without its disadvantages, but most often craftsmen choose wood and its “colleagues”, since the advantages of these options are undoubted. This:

environmental friendliness, light weight;
buoyancy, reliability, strength;
noiselessness, maneuverability;
relatively low cost;
long service life with proper processing of the material and storage of the vessel;
the ability to use oars, install a motor and/or sail.

There are two types of wooden boats:

keel structures;
flat-bottomed (round-bottomed) vessels.

The latter are held in greater esteem by fishermen, since punt boats have better stability, allowing them to hunt fish even while standing. These boats are easy to turn around, and there is enough space for everything that fishing fans need: both gear and a very large catch.

Self-made keel mini-vessels are distinguished by better maneuverability in difficult sections, speed, and practicality. However, these boats are more demanding, since passengers and the “driver”-rower first need to learn how to maintain balance, correctly distributing the center of gravity.

Features of wooden “boat work”

The creators of these boats have several requirements that will have to be taken into account. Among them:

Ability to handle wood, knowledge of all the nuances. This concept includes optimal choice boards, the ability to calculate in advance the future maximum loads on the wood, as well as awareness of how the workpieces bend.
Correct choice of other materials: in addition to wood, you will need means to protect it from leaks, from the harmful effects of water, and elements to hold all the parts of the structure together.
Availability of space for assembly. Since all the blanks and the vessel itself are quite large in size, and assembly will take a beginner a lot of time, you need a room or area that is reliably protected from rain.
The need to have all the tools to work with wood.
At least one assistant will definitely be needed.

This is a minimum list of what is needed, so other conditions may arise as you work.

Correct dimensions and drawing

They are a separate discussion, because the weight, capacity, carrying capacity and stability of a small vessel on the water depend on the size. If we write about recommendations, they are as follows:

Side height. The optimal value is 500 mm, but no one prohibits a slight change up or down.
Length. This parameter depends on how many people will be in the boat at the same time. If the craft is designed for one person, then a length of 1800-2500 mm is enough. For a duet of “seafarers”, 3000 mm is needed, for 3-5 people 3500-4000 mm is enough. The latest design can accommodate six people, but in this case the question is different - the comfort of such a large company.
Width. Here the recommended value is 1000-1500 mm, but it must be taken into account that the maximum figure will significantly reduce maneuverability, but will make the vessel more stable. You need to take into account the weight of people, the potential cargo that will be transported on the boat, and the length of the craft.

Based on the recommended (or chosen by the builder) dimensions, it is necessary to make a drawing. If the master is not strong in drawing up such diagrams, it is better to focus on ready-made, proven sketches, which are easy to find on the Internet: just enter search engine just two words - “boat drawing”, and then switch to “Pictures”.

Preparation: tools, materials

After theory, practice begins - purchasing materials and finding all the necessary tools. The main thing for a boat is the boards. In this case, it is better to buy spruce, larch or pine lumber that does not have cracks or knots that might fall out. Those that hold tight do not pose a threat to the future ship. It’s easy to check their reliability; just hit them with a hammer or sledgehammer. The optimal wood is one that has been stored in a dry place for at least a year and has been lying on a flat surface for the entire period.

The rest list includes:

wood antiseptic;
beam for spacers and triangular - for the bow of the boat;
water-repellent paint - Pentacryl, Progress, Raptor (for cars), brushes (spray gun);
nails (preferably galvanized self-tapping screws) of different lengths and a hammer for them;
primer;
low power drill, screwdriver;
glue (polyurethane), its replacement is resin, a syringe for application in hard-to-reach places;
varnish (yacht) - Alpina Yachtlack, Belinka Yacht, Eskaro Marine lakk 90, Premia;
sheet metal for the bottom and fastening elements of the boat;
sandpaper (or grinder);
file;
tow (sealant);
paracord (Kevlar, nylon, polypropylene) - for attaching the sides of the boat the desired shape;
roulette;
clamps;
jigsaw (hacksaw).

Making a wooden punt

How to make a boat with your own hands, reliable, strong, unsinkable? There is only one answer: all stages require precise implementation, since haste, any shortcomings, and the traditional Russian hope “at random” are contraindicated. Attention even to the “small details” is a necessary condition.

Manufacturing of boards

First, according to the drawing, all the blanks are cut out. Parts, including the sides, are processed with a file and then sandpaper. Impregnated with antiseptic.
On one side of the side boards, a cut is made at an angle of 15-30°, then the ends are chamfered to ensure an ideal fit (without gaps) of the workpieces in the bow.
The bow of the boat is fixed with a triangular beam, attaching it with nails or self-tapping screws to the junction of the boards with inside after a perfect fit. The edges of the contacting parts are first impregnated with an antiseptic, then lubricated with glue (resin).
They call an assistant and give the sides of the boat the desired shape using paracord or its replacement. The sides are tied with a cord, having previously installed spacers between them of the same width as the future boat. The rope is then tightened.
Attaching the transom ( rear element boats - flat stern). It is connected to the sides using glue (resin) and self-tapping screws (nails).

Creating and fixing the bottom

The bottom is made of wood (it is better to find a wide massive board), waterproof plywood (FSF, 12 mm) or sheet metal.

If a metal sheet is used, then the part is cut out so that its dimensions exceed the bottom by several centimeters. They are needed for attachment to the bottom of the sides. Since leaks are the biggest threat here, all joints are generously coated with glue or resin, and tow is used. The edges of the metal are bent using a hammer. Self-tapping screws are planted in increments of 15-20 mm along the entire perimeter of the boat.
If found wooden plank(plywood), then an element of the desired shape is cut out of the material, and then they act in the same way - treated with glue or resin, tow and fasteners are used.

Final processing of the material

Now the elements of the boat are again generously treated with an antiseptic, and all potential gaps are eliminated using tow or sealant. Then they prime twice, apply paint in several layers, each of them is given time to dry.

Then the vessel is coated with varnish, also in 2-3 layers. Final stage- installation of can benches, installation of triangles for the stern, they are processed - primed and painted (varnished) - separately. At this point, the production of the punt boat is considered complete.

Checking the water tightness of the boat

This operation is necessary to ensure the reliability of the vessel before its first long voyage. There are several ways to do this, but it is better to conduct a comprehensive test.

Inspection at the construction site. In order to ensure the quality of the work, the boat is turned upside down and placed on a long bench or on several stools. Then they pour it on her a large number of water from a hose. The recommended duration of this test is 5-10 minutes. The boat is turned over and inspected for leaks.
Testing a mini-ship in big water. If a homemade punt has not proven itself to be a leaky trough at the “shipyard,” then it is first sent for free swimming to shallow depths. When the first water tests are successful within 30 minutes, the boat is ready for any body of water.

They can be useful for those who do not like to make mistakes in their work, which always require additional effort to correct them. Therefore, some recommendations can (and should) be “wound up” in advance:

When making a homemade boat, it is better not to skimp on the quality of materials, since best wood- synonymous with the longevity of the future own watercraft;
It is recommended to cut all blanks with a small margin, because it is much easier to cut off the excess, otherwise you will have to cut out a new element;
sealant, glue, resin or tow - something that needs to be purchased in large quantities, the joints of the sides with the bottom are especially important;
in all wooden parts For fastening, you need to pre-drill several holes smaller diameter than with nails or self-tapping screws, the goal is to prevent possible cracking of the material.

Plywood boat

Plywood floating craft has its advantages, which include:

light weight, since the lightweight version of such a boat weighs only 10-15 kg, and such a vessel is quite easy to carry even with two people;
maximum capacity is 5 people, but it all depends on the chosen project;
the durability of the mini-ship, but only if the technology is followed;
affordable price of all required materials.

If the master has a desire, but can’t find any reason to abandon his plan, then he just needs to allocate free time to create a boat.

Materials, tools

Furniture plywood (FK) is not suitable for the construction of this vessel, so you need to purchase one of the following brands: BK (impregnation - bakelite varnish), BS (bakelite glue) or, if it is not possible to buy BK and BS, FSF (resin formaldehyde glue). It is necessary to pay close attention to the quality of the material: cracks are not allowed at the ends, and there are no knots or other defects on the surface. Thick plywood is not suitable, since the sheet must be able to bend, so the maximum (or optimal) thickness is 6-9 mm. Other necessary materials and tools:

timber - high-quality, dry;
larch slats - for the keel and stringers (longitudinal stiffeners);
fiberglass in rolls;
waterproof paint;
primer and putty (also waterproof);
epoxy adhesive;
yacht varnish;
pencil;
copper wire (paper clips);
chisel;
wire cutters;
hammer;
pliers;
plane;
roulette;
self-tapping screws;
clamps;
Grinder;
putty knife;
jigsaw, files (for curved cutting).

Plywood structure drawing

It’s simpler and easier to choose a ready-made sample, which can be found on the Internet without any problems. But before “hunting” for him, you need to think about a few details. These include:

The appearance of the boat, its shape.
Capacity of the future vessel and its dimensions.
Level of design complexity. It is better for newcomers to “shipbuilding” to look towards simple models.

After a drawing you like is found, the master has the right to slightly correct it: for example, change the size or shape of some elements.

The simplest of the drawings is the one in which all the parts are placed on 1 plywood sheet.

First, the axial (longitudinal) line is marked on it, then those located between the letters A, B, and C. Half of the bottom is transferred to paper, cut out, then the pattern is applied to the second half of the sheet, outlined with a pencil so that the bottom is symmetrical.
Draw a line separating the transom from it. The bottom is cut out with a jigsaw first, the rear side follows.
In a similar way, they draw and then cut out the side boards: mark one element, put it on the second blank, then both are immediately clamped in clamps and cut out. The cut areas of all workpieces are treated with sandpaper.
The slats for the keel and stiffeners (stringers) are cut out, then they are ground.

If you are not satisfied small sizes watercraft, then two sheets of plywood are glued together before the cutting operation, treating the joints first with a plane and then grinder. A weight is placed on the resulting seam.

Assembling boat elements

The step-by-step process of connecting parts looks like this:

Holes are drilled in the lower part and on the sides of the transom, their diameter is 1.5 mm, pitch is 150 mm. Do the same with the bottom from the stern side. Both parts are connected with wire, twists are made from the outside.
The bottom is laid on 3 stools, and boards or books are placed on the outer chairs to ensure the required deflection. The assistant's name is. Together, holes with the same diameter and pitch are made along the edges of the side and sides of the bottom.
The side elements are attached with wire to the bottom and transom. After checking the geometry of the boat, the staples are set with a chisel on internal joints. Temporary spacers are inserted between the sides in the places where partitions (frames) and bench seats will be installed. They are temporarily secured with self-tapping screws.
All joints are glued three times with fiberglass using epoxy glue. The width of the first strip is 25 mm, the second is 40, and the third is 50 mm. All twists of wire with outside Before gluing, the outside is bitten off and the joints are rounded.
Temporary struts are removed, frames and cans are installed. The holes from the self-tapping screws are “masked” with wooden dowels mounted on epoxy glue.
The slats intended for the keel and stringers are secured with glue and screws, then placed under a press.

Finishing work

First, sandpaper is used to remove all the irregularities that appeared “thanks” to the epoxy glue. Defects or all surfaces are puttied, then the boat is primed. The last stage is painting and/or varnishing.

How to make a boat with your own hands? Not difficult, but not too basic either. You can verify this if you look at all the stages through the eyes of a master. For example, this video, divided into 9 parts, will help you to see the reality of solving the problem:

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to take care of its most important parts - sides. For this purpose, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with slight pressure on top to avoid their bending.

We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure the required length (here, as well as further, specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow part.

Next, they need to be planed, and chamfered from the sawn ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
We impregnate these areas, and subsequently all others that will not be available for painting after assembling the structure, with a protective layer of antiseptic.

After this, we proceed to making the base of the nose - a triangular block. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The timber is also planed and covered with a protective layer.

Don't forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all excess will be cut off.

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to assembly. We start from the bow, firmly connect both sides and the triangular block with screws or nails.

We cut off the protruding parts at the top and bottom flush with the sides.

It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The spacer angle should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides; here you will need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adhere to it without gaps.

So, removing it little by little, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail down the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you want. It is better to do it in the form of a triangle.

Then we proceed to install the permanent braces and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (and in general, in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We complete the very important initial stage by chamfering the bottom of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating to them.

After the impregnation and wood glue have dried, you can begin making its bottom. For this we need a smooth galvanized sheet. It is desirable that its length matches the length of the vessel. True, choosing one is not easy, the fact is that construction stores mainly sell small sheets (1.2x2m, 1.5x2), and they are very reluctant to cut off large rolls. If you can't reach an agreement, take what you have. The bottom can be made from two sheets, but it will just be a little more complicated.

Using metal scissors, cut out a piece corresponding to the size of the bottom from the purchased galvanized steel. To make it easier to determine the length and width, we place the boat on a sheet and outline it with a marker, with a small margin of 1.2-2 cm, just in case.

Next we need to prepare the lower parts of the sides. Using a gun, apply a small layer of sanitary silicone sealant in the form of a continuous winding thread. Then we lay a special cord directly on it in two rows. All this will reliably protect the bottom of the boat from leaking in the future.

If there is no sealant, replace it regular paint, if there is no thread, put in tow.

Having completed this, carefully place the cut piece of tin on the boat, align it and begin to fasten it.

For fastening, you can use galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails. IN in this case we fasten using a method proven over the years - i.e. nails (1.8x32). We start work from the middle and move towards the edges. The work is monotonous and tedious, but there is no need to rush - protruding nails will not add beauty.

How often you need to prick them is shown in the photo.

We cut off those places where the tin protrudes beyond the edges by more than 5 mm. We tap the rest with a hammer, bending it onto the side.

The bow of the boat needs protection; we cover it with the same tin. We measure and cut out the desired piece in the form of a rectangle.

On that part of the sides that will be covered with galvanized steel, pre-impregnated with antiseptics (in general, by this time the boat needs to be covered with at least one layer of impregnation), we apply sealant with thread. After this, we apply the sheet as shown in the photo and nail it.

The edges of the tin should not extend beyond the triangle nose, otherwise the nails will come out.

We lay the galvanized sheets on top and bottom on top of each other, cutting off the excess and also fastening them with nails. The result will be a great nose, just a very sharp one. Therefore, we crumple or cut off its tip, so as not to damage swampers or fishing gear on it later.

A new boat on a pond will definitely attract attention; in order to somehow protect it from attacks or to prevent it from being carried away by the current, we make a fastening for a chain in the bow. For this we need a long bolt or pin. We drill a hole in the sides exactly along the diameter of the pin, secure it, and saw off the excess with a hacksaw.

The boat is almost ready. We cover it with an additional 2 layers of impregnation and leave it to dry in the shade.

If you wish, you can immediately take care of protecting the bottom of the boat by covering it with paint. Galvanization on the outside, in contact with water, deteriorates over time without additional coating.

To make it comfortable to walk on the tin bottom and not rattle, it is necessary to provide wood flooring. He might be the one various designs. For example this one.

Now we can confidently say that the boat is ready! A boat with a galvanized bottom is much lighter than one with a wooden one, and during operation it will be easier to prepare it for the next season after wintering. In terms of strength, it is in no way inferior to others. For example, after 10 years of use, my previous old boat’s sides rotted, but the bottom was okay.

Yes, and one more thing - do not skimp on the antiseptic, it is this, and not paint, that resists the destruction of wood much better.

If you end up with something similar or even better, you can be congratulated on your success.

I present several final photos of different people:

Based on materials from: grossoxota.ru

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