What materials are needed for the blind area of ​​a house. We make a blind area around the house with our own hands from concrete

During construction, it is very important to properly make the blind area around the house. It allows you to reduce the amount of splashes of dirt during rain, which reduces contamination of the facade. However, poor design can lead to waterlogged foundation walls. There are several opinions among specialist builders about how to make a blind area around a house correctly with your own hands.

Some believe that making a moisture-proof blind area, for example from concrete, will effectively drain rainwater from the wall. Others argue that this element is built purely for aesthetic reasons, serving as narrow “sidewalks” along the façade.

The third popular opinion is that the main function of the blind area is to keep the house clean, as it helps to avoid contamination during rain.

So, how to make a simple blind area around a house from stone, tiles and other materials, what to pay attention to, how to prepare the base and what materials to choose - this will be discussed in the article.

Blind area around the house - how to do it correctly and what is it for?

First of all, it’s worth understanding how rainwater affects external walls building. When it rains, water soaks into the ground (through the lawn or permeable strip around the house made of crushed stone, tiles or other materials). Some of the water will be absorbed to the level groundwater. However, some of it will rise up through the soil capillaries and evaporate from the surface, which is sometimes called “self-draining” of the soil. If a waterproof blind area is made, for example, from concrete, a constantly wet zone of soil may appear directly under the house, in contact with the foundation walls. In practice, this will have an adverse effect on the foundation walls; moisture can penetrate into the building and contribute to the development of fungus, especially if the house has a basement.

How to properly make a blind area around the house - video

In recent years, many experts have recommended insulating foundations using a waterproofing membrane film. Diffusion film membranes allow the walls to “breathe” and better drain water from the foundations (through a system of channels in their structure). This is only true if there is a place for the water to pass through to evaporate. If we place a membrane film under a waterproof blind area, it will not do its job.

In this case, the blind area must be made permeable, for example, from decorative stone or tiles laid on sand, gravel or gravel mixture (concrete or cement-sand bedding cannot be used). The border of the blind area must also be made, for example, a concrete rim or a plastic rim.

Functions of the blind area

According to most experts, the blind area of ​​a house performs two main functions:

1. First of all, it allows you to leave the facade clean, since rainwater splashes, bouncing off tiles or stones, which leads to mud splashing the walls.
2. The second function is to improve the aesthetics of the building (of course, this is a matter of taste for each of us).

This is not the only thing possible application. This building element can also serve as an auxiliary path around the house, as well as a support for stairs or scaffolding for façade maintenance or window cleaning. Every year it becomes more and more important, since mechanical ventilation is becoming widespread, in which non-opening windows are often installed in the house. In this case, the only access to them is the outer wall of the building.

How to choose the correct blind area width?

In order for the blind area to perform these functions, it cannot be too narrow. However, the most commonly used width is 40-60 cm, it will be enough to perform the main task, but it will not work in any of the additional functions listed above. A width of 80 - 90 cm will make the blind area relatively comfortable. For the passage of two people, this width increases to at least 120, but better to 150 cm. As for the “path around the house” function, in practice it does not have much practical use, since it is much more convenient to move along paths built directly in the garden than on the narrow sidewalks at the front.

It should be borne in mind that paths leading to the entrance to the building located too close to the wall will lead to much faster contamination of the facade. For the same reason, you should not connect the blind area to the group of the main communication line. If there is enough space, it is better to separate it with a narrow strip of greenery from the sidewalk. This will greatly improve ease of use and help maintain cleanliness.

Finally, the width of the blind area is selected to match the module of the selected tile or stone format. For example, we decided to use 18.2 x 18.2 cm tiles - then there is no point in creating a 70 cm wide strip, because this means cutting out almost all elements and significantly increasing labor and waste costs. Instead, it is better to choose 55 cm (18.2 × 3), 73 cm (18.2 × 4) or 91 cm (18.2 × 5). This will reduce the amount of waste to almost zero (tile elements will be laid whole or cut in half). For the same reason, when choosing trapezoidal tiles or other uneven-sided shapes, it is better to place them along the facade.

How to make a blind area around the house with tiles or stones?

We already know how to choose the shape of the blind area and what functions should correspond to it. Therefore, the only question is how to properly make a blind area? It is not particularly difficult, since it is structurally no different from other sidewalks and paths made of stone or paving slabs.

Best choice is a blind area made of paving slabs or stone; it can be made of decorative stone, pebbles or the more popular paving slabs. The main function of this design is to protect the facade from dirt and slush, as well as protect the foundation from moisture.

The most popular blind areas are natural stone, gravel, and paving slabs.

Work begins with a trench (it is important to remove all humus, which is quite simple to do), then a foundation, a leveling pad and a surface of tiles or stone are made. However, there are some additional rules.

First of all, you need to make sure that the level of the planned strip will be below the top edge of the vertical foundation insulation. Otherwise, the walls of the building may become damp. To protect against snow, it is recommended to perform vertical insulation at least 30 cm above the level of the blind area.

The second important point is the slope. It must provide drainage from the building. For normal conditions the slope should be 2%. This means a 2 cm height difference for a strip width of 1 m. It is also important that the top edge of the curb does not protrude above the plane of the tile. It should be flush with its bottom edge.

1. Exterior wall building.
2. Border of the blind area.
3. Tile, stone.
4. Priming.
5. Vertical building insulation.
6. Sand bedding.
7. Bedding with a slope.
8. Foundation of the building.

This design is very simple to implement and does not require precise compliance with height differences. This is due to the fact that water penetrates very quickly through the stone layer into the soil. What is the best way to make a blind area around a house from decorative stone? The top layer can be made using decorative stones or coarse gravel. The most aesthetic solution is white stone, but at the same time it can quickly become dirty.

It is recommended that upper layer The stone had a thickness of about 15 cm. The stones should be scattered on an even layer of sand about 10-15 cm thick. This solution will ensure rapid penetration of the flow of rainwater into the ground, as well as rapid drying of the substrate.

The structure should be surrounded by a concrete or granite border. Lack of a border will quickly lead to the rocks "spreading" into the garden. However, any stones that fall on the lawn can damage the lawn mower.

For a gravel and stone strip, install a curb so that it protrudes about 2 cm above the level of the stones. This will protect the blind area from stones or gravel falling onto the grass. At the same time, you need to make sure that the lawn behind it is also located about 2 cm lower, which will prevent dirt from being deposited on the layer of stones.

To keep the side stable and ensure a constant width of the blind area for many years, it is worth strengthening it from the outside with concrete, or building a support. In addition, this design will allow you to later work in the garden directly next to the house (for example, digging a trench for drainage or laying cables, etc.) without damaging it.

Paving slabs are much easier to maintain than stone structures. In the case of stones, after a few years it is often necessary to replace their top layer (about 5 cm) with new, clean stones in the desired color (usually white stones). At the same time, we must not forget that it is undesirable to use concrete pouring or a cement/sand mixture, as this will interfere with the free movement and evaporation of water.

You can use paving slabs or granite 4-6 cm thick to pave the house. There is no need to use road slabs (8 cm thick), since there is no traffic or other extreme impact.

Geotextiles can be laid under paving slabs and sand. The cost of creating such a structure depends mainly on the material of its top layer.

In terms of functionality, both solutions are similar. Therefore, it is better to make the choice mainly by considering the decision from the point of view of financial issues, since the cost of sand and sand-gravel mixture in each region is different, as is the availability of any of these materials on the construction market.

In the case of paving slabs, it is important to maintain the proper height difference between the blind area and the lawn. It is recommended that this difference be 1-2% or even 2-4%, which means with a strip width of 0.5 m, the difference in levels will be 1-2 cm. You cannot tilt the angle of the height difference to the wall of the building so that the water does not stand along walls and foundations (water penetrates into the cracks between the tiles much more slowly than through a stone path).

When laying tiles, it is very important to thoroughly compact the layer of sand bedding, since if the sand is not compacted, the tiles will settle unevenly. If the blind area is made of decorative stone, careful compaction of the sand is not necessary (only slight compaction of the surface is required).

The tile must be limited by a side. In the case of a concrete border, it is recommended that it be slightly lower than the tiles (0.5-1 cm), which will improve the drainage of rainwater onto the lawn.

Border for paving slabs - concrete, granite or plastic?

In the case of a decorative blind area made of stone, the best solution would be a concrete sidewalk curb 6 or 4 cm thick. A granite option is also available. In turn, in the case of paving slabs, you can use both concrete and plastic curbs for paving slabs.

Laying geotextiles in the blind area of ​​a house

Placing geotextiles (or so-called permeable agrofiber) under a layer of sand will limit the growth of weeds and other vegetation. However, it is important that the fabric is permeable in both directions (top and bottom). Sealed insulating films must not be placed in this location.

Geotextiles can be laid out along the entire length of the blind area of ​​the house, with an overlap of subsequent strips of about 30-50 cm. This material will not completely limit the growth of vegetation, but will significantly reduce the scale of this phenomenon. In practice, this will make it easier to maintain a good appearance of the structure.

To improve the appearance, you can mark between the elements of paving slabs or stones lighting, diversify the design with flower beds and other garden decor.

When it comes to aesthetic issues, color is of paramount importance. It should be remembered that the blind area around the house is not the most important element whole, therefore should not dominate environment. It should be harmonized with the facade, but it should merge with it, since this can greatly spoil the proportions of the building. If we do not have much experience in choosing colors and we are afraid of experiments, a slightly darker color than the facade of the house will be “safer”. It is also good if it is made of a material and color that matches garden paths around the house.

Building a house is a complex process. It consists of several main stages, most often obvious and necessary. But there are a few things that can be overlooked that, if done, will greatly improve the aesthetics and comfort of the building. These include the blind area around the house. First of all, she will protect bottom part facade from dirt, and will also provide an aesthetic separation of the house from the garden. However, in order for the architecture of the building to be complemented and not spoiled, it is important to carefully consider the project and choose the appropriate material.

The blind area around the house no longer serves a decorative function; it protects the soil near the foundation from getting wet and unevenly softening. The installation of a blind area has its own tricks and technical requirements, which we will share with readers in our today's review.

Timing and soil preparation

Work on the construction of a concrete blind area should be carried out as early as possible. From the moment the foundation has taken on more than a third of the design load, it already needs protection from soaking. Therefore, it is not recommended to leave a house with lined walls for the winter without a blind area. The forces of heaving are capable of doing their “dirty” work even in one season. You can schedule work for almost any time of the year, but taking into account weather conditions, following the technology of working with concrete.

The first stage is digging a trench along the outer perimeter. The bottom should be located 30-35 cm below the final coating level, and it, in turn, should be 50-80 mm higher than the adjacent fertile soil.

The width of the blind area cannot be less than the cornice and gable overhang above it and cannot be less than 60 cm. In the general case, it is defined as 50% of the depth of the foundation. For basement buildings on soils of the first type of subsidence, the width of the blind area can reach two meters.

General diagram of the concrete blind area: 1 - mother soil; 2 - formwork; 3 — concrete blind area; 4 - clay castle; 5 – gravel preparation; 6 — sand preparation; 7 — damper tape; 8 - fittings

When the trench is dug, a clay castle is formed at the bottom with greasy clay 10-12 cm thick. Above, make two layers of incompressible and non-heaving materials: first crushed stone with a layer of 50-60 mm, then up to 100 mm of sand. Along the outer edge of the trench, be sure to dig a so-called “tooth” - a groove approximately 20x20 cm.

The level of the finished underlying layer should be 45-60 mm below the planned coating level. It should be taken into account that the thickness of the layers of sand and gravel must be constant at each point of the trench, thus the recess under the “tooth” is preserved after the backfill is installed.

To prevent mixing of the layers of the underlying layer, separate them from each other with a geotextile cloth, and separate the substrate itself from the compacted soil with a drainage geocomposite. On highly heaving and, sometimes, medium heaving soils, insulation of the blind area may be required. It can be made with slabs of extruded polystyrene foam, which are laid on top of a thin (10-15 mm) sand filling over a layer of crushed stone, and then another 50-60 mm layer of dry sand is poured.

Formwork, reinforcement

The device is considered correct storm sewer in order to divert atmospheric precipitation and high water into the drainage system. Water from the blind area is collected in a tray at the edge, from where it is discharged into the drainage trench. If a system of hidden channels is provided for these purposes, they are installed at the stage of preparing the underlying layer. During the preparation of the reinforcing layer, all necessary elements should be carefully laid drainage system.

The formwork for the blind area has a simple design. You just need to knock down a pair of 20x100 mm boards in parallel, connecting them with jumpers every 50-60 cm. The formwork is installed under the side of the trench, the height of the upper edge is adjusted according to the final level of the coating. For ease of alignment, wooden stakes are driven in at intervals of 150 cm along the outer side of the panels, to which the formwork is screwed with self-tapping screws. After this, the shields are supported from the outside with a dump of soil from the adjacent territory.

The most important point in constructing a blind area is that it should not be monolithically connected to the base of the building. The best scheme for draining external water, including that flowing down the wall, is observed when separating two layers of concrete with a material with sufficiently high plasticity, provided that the finishing of the base is laid on the blind area from above, preventing water from leaking through the separating layer. If the base will not be finished with suspended cladding, its cladding should begin with an EPS damper strip that compensates for the “floating” of the concrete slab.

The simplest way to achieve such a design is to cover the lower part of the base with a strip of polyurethane foam about 20 mm thick. The separator sits on adhesive mastic; during installation, the upper edge is aligned with the cord, setting the slope of the coating towards the adjacent soil to be at least 3:100. However, the separating material can be cut along a common line after the glue has dried, but the principle remains the same: the formwork and separating layer serve as beacons for leveling the concrete mixture.

The blind area is reinforced with steel mesh with a rod thickness of 8 mm and a cell size of up to 200 mm inclusive. The reinforcement is laid in one row and placed on remote supports that regulate the protective layers of reinforced concrete of at least 45 mm at the top and bottom and about 60 mm at the sides.

Preparation of concrete mixture

The blind area can be cast with locally prepared concrete, but the requirements for the quality of the mixture are quite high.

The desired strength class of concrete is B25 or higher. The raw materials should be measured by volume so as not to make additional adjustments for the moisture content of sand or crushed stone. In total, for 10 liters of grade 500 cement, 20 liters of sand and 35 liters of crushed stone or large granite screenings are added to prepare concrete.

To ensure the homogeneity of the mixture, cement laitance is first prepared in a concrete mixer with the addition of half the calculated amount of water and sand. After 2-3 minutes of kneading, you can add the remaining filler and sprinkle the mixture with water as needed. The final consistency of the concrete is a crumbly mixture with a low moisture-to-cement ratio, and all stones must be evenly wetted.

The cycle of continuous mixing of one portion should take at least 15 minutes. To entrain air and provide additional plasticity, add one tablespoon of liquid to the water. detergent on a bucket. As a result, concrete has a frost resistance class of at least F200 and water absorption resistance of at least W6. If necessary, enhance the desired properties with modifier additives.

Optimal consistency of concrete for pouring formwork

Filling, leveling, ironing

The blind area should be poured from the most distant part, gradually moving closer to the place where the concrete is prepared. The formwork is filled with the mixture almost to the top, after which the concrete is subjected to bayonet or vibration shrinkage.

The need for transverse division of the blind area with expansion joints is determined by operating conditions. This is not necessary for the shaded sides of the building, but in the open sun the blind area should be poured, dividing the mixture with strips of polystyrene foam every two widths.

When leveling, it is convenient to move directly through the liquid mixture in rubber boots. Armed with a rule strip, check the degree of filling of the formwork and the depth of immersion of the tray box in the concrete. If necessary, knock down the formwork with gentle blows of the hammer, but do not overdo it: raising the edge higher will be much more difficult.

When both beacons and the edges of the tray are at the same level, add a small amount of the mixture and stretch it with a lath. There is no need to smooth the surface; it is enough to ensure its flatness and correct slope, and remove depressions in which water can collect.

After leveling, a board is laid flat on the edge of the formwork and tray, on which a small pressure is installed for 10-12 hours of preliminary setting of the mixture. For the next 7-10 days, the blind area will need to be sprayed with water from a hose once a day and then covered with film.

Two weeks after pouring, the formwork can be broken down and wet ironing can be carried out. For it, a mixture of sand and cement is prepared in equal proportions; instead of water, three parts of lime milk and one part of liquid glass are added to the solution. The finished mixture should have a consistency slightly thicker than cream.

Before ironing, the blind area needs to be well moistened and wiped wire brush, breaking the structure of the crust formed on the surface, then sweep and rinse again. After preliminary drying, the mixture for ironing is poured over the surface from the base outward, and then leveled with a wide spatula in the longitudinal direction. The iron layer should be at least 1.5-2 mm, the time for the mixture to harden is at least 3 days with periodic moistening of the surface.

The device is a mandatory final stage in the construction of any building. At its core, this is nothing more than a small stylish sidewalk that encircles the perimeter of the house. Many people make the mistake of believing that it has only a decorative function; in fact, the structure bears the responsibility to protect the foundation from surface waters. Due to the fact that the blind area is inclined from the walls, it retains and drains water into the storm sewer system.

The width of the blind area directly depends on the overhang of the roof, and it must also adhere closely to the foundation continuously along the entire perimeter of the building.

In most cases, it has a width ranging from 60 to 80 cm and a slope of 3-10°. As experts note, the wider the blind area, the more efficient the sediment drainage will be. The width of the blind area is determined by the type of soil, but despite this, it should always be 20 cm larger than the eaves of the roof. The condition for increasing the blind area is construction on easily compressible soils.

It must be closely adjacent to the base of the structure and be continuous around the perimeter, otherwise water will seep into the cracks between the wall and the blind area. If the house is equipped with a warm basement or basement, it is provided to reduce the depth of freezing. The thermal insulation layer is able to protect basement rooms from sudden temperature fluctuations.

Construction of a blind area: sequence of work

Required tools and materials:

• level;
• bayonet shovel;
• edged board;
• capacity;
• road network;
• sand, cement, crushed stone.

The blind area around the house begins to be built by removing the top layer of soil about 15 cm thick. The depth of the trench is determined by the type of soil and the eaves of the roof. If the house is located on a site with heaving soils, it should be at least 30 cm.

When excavating a layer of soil, the general layout of the surface should be observed and a slope should be maintained to ensure water drainage in the direction of the natural depression of the landscape. Most effective solution a shallow drainage system will be installed along the outer perimeter, which will be able to eliminate the slightest contact of the foundation with groundwater.

The blind area itself, without additional hydro- and thermal insulation, includes an underlying layer and a covering. Best material used for the underlying layer is clay. When poured into a trench, well-compacted clay is capable of absolutely preventing water from passing through. Clay also functions as a waterproofing agent. However, working with this material is very labor-intensive and painstaking, so in most cases a layer of sand at least 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench and compacted well. To better compact the sand layer, water it with a small amount of water.

After filling and compacting the sand, a curb is installed along the outer edge. At the next stage, the layer of sand between the wall of the house and the curb is covered with crushed stone, firmly compacting the layer. The process is completed by laying a top covering of concrete, paving slabs or asphalt.

Return to contents

Construction of a blind area of ​​a simplified design

The method described below is no less effective, but requires significantly less costs. start with a recess at least 6-10 cm deep. The bottom is compacted manually, and two layers of waterproofing material are laid on top with an overlap of 20-30 cm. The role of waterproofing can be fulfilled plastic film, roofing felt and other non-rotting materials. Placed on waterproofing Sand and gravel, and on top - a covering of gravel or crushed stone, filled with cement-sand mortar.

The waterproofing function is carried out thanks to profiled PVP membranes, which are made of dense polyethylene. They are laid on the ground under a layer of crushed stone and sand. Such a blind area can be made in the form of a lawn; to do this, pour fertile soil 30 cm thick onto a layer of crushed stone and sow grass.

Return to contents

Finish coating for blind area

Covering the blind area can be done various materials, in most cases, preference is given to asphalt, concrete and paving slabs.

The surface lined with turf, cobblestones, gravel, and clinker bricks looks original. Each of the above materials has its own nuances of preparation, installation and operation.

The blind area around the house is made of monolithic concrete laid on a sand base compacted to a coefficient above 0.98. The concrete that will be used for the blind area must match the level of frost resistance of road concrete. Before the pouring procedure, reinforcement is laid on the underlying layer, otherwise a monolithic blind area under the influence of precipitation and natural conditions may collapse.

When choosing this type of coating, remember about the expansion joints of the blind area. To form them, you can use a board tarred or treated with an antiseptic with a thickness of at least 15-20 mm, laid on an edge. An alternative this method is the use of wooden blocks impregnated with waste oil, as well as vinyl tapes 15 cm thick, such solutions can save the blind area even in the case of heavy load.

The disadvantage of a continuous fill is that it will crack during the first winter. Dividing slats act as a damper and protect the coating from destructive destruction. Expansion joints are installed in increments of 2-2.5 m.

Often used for blind areas reinforced concrete slabs 30x30 or 50x50 cm in size. The seams are filled with soil and sown with grass. The main condition for laying such slabs is the presence of air space, which reduces the swelling of the soil.

Asphalt concrete blind areas also cope well with moisture. Before laying, the base is compacted with gravel or crushed stone with a fraction of 40-60 mm. Work is carried out only in dry, warm weather at a temperature not lower than 5 °C. performed using a factory-prepared hot mixture with a laying temperature of more than 120°C.

You can approach the house using cobblestones; for this, sand and clay are used. Work begins with laying a clay layer 15 cm thick, then a sand layer 10 cm thick is placed, into which cobblestones are laid.

If we are talking about laying paving slabs, you will need sifted coarse sand and medium-fraction crushed stone from wild stone without any admixture of coarse cobblestones. Sand is poured over the crushed stone layer and paving slabs or granite paving stones are laid on it. Please note that the tiles should not be laid on the mortar as this will cause them to crack.

At the moment, sandy blind areas have gained particular popularity, which performs not only a protective, but also an unusual decorative function. The construction of a blind area is different in that the sand poured into the trench is not covered with crushed stone, but is filled with liquid glass and a special hardener solution. As a result, monolithic surface sandstone stone, not subject to erosion. The modern construction market offers a wide selection of special ready-made compositions and semi-finished products that require cooking for 7-8 hours.

A more labor-intensive, but incredibly beautiful and organic “old-fashioned” option is a turf blind area. Construction of the blind area begins with excavation of a layer of earth 5 cm thick, and drainage from coarse sand is laid on the compacted soil of the base. The next layer of installation is crumpled clay, which forms a slope for water drainage. The process is completed with a layer of fertile soil and meadow turf. The blind area requires watering and regular trimming at first. After several weeks, a lawn strip of elastic turf is formed, which is difficult to wash out or trample.

Construction of the house has been completed, but the owners still have a lot of trouble ahead, primarily aimed at ensuring the safety of their new home. Building construction, no matter how durable they may seem at first glance, without proper protection they can suffer significantly from the effects of frost, snow, rain, and winds. This effect on the foundation is especially dangerous, because its deformation or partial destruction can negatively affect the strength of the entire structure of the house. As a protective measure around the house, it is recommended to build a blind area - it is intended to protect the foundation from destructive action precipitation.

What is the blind area of ​​a private house

The blind area of ​​a private house is a strip dense material, for example, concrete or asphalt, which is adjacent to the foundation, protecting it from moisture. When laying the blind area, the slope angle recommended by building regulations must be observed, which allows melt or rainwater to flow freely; usually it is in the range of 10 to 15 degrees.

The recommended width of the blind area of ​​a private house is from 0.8 to 1.2 - 1.5 m, it is located along the entire perimeter of the structure. It is difficult to overestimate the importance of a blind area for houses with a ground floor or basement: it not only significantly increases the strength of the foundation, but also helps create an additional insulating layer that creates a thermal cushion.

Except protective functions the blind area around the house helps to give the structure a more aesthetic and finished appearance. Practical owners resort to constructing blind areas not only around a residential building, but also around all kinds of technical and service premises, brick fences, built on the territory of the estate.

Types of blind area

In construction, it is customary to divide blind areas into three types:

• made from asphalt or stones
• classical
• monolithic.

Classic blind area usually has a width of 80 cm, is built along the entire perimeter of the structure, its slope is about 10 degrees. However, the width of the blind area should be chosen taking into account the protrusion of the roof of the house; at least 20 cm should be added to it. The width may also depend on the type of soil in the area where the house is located: the easier the soil is compressed, the wider the blind area should be made. If there is a basement in the house, it is recommended to insulate the blind area using heat-insulating material.

It should be noted that the blind area, no matter what material it is made of, will be subject to destructive effects if the drainage from the roof is not done correctly or is missing.

Clay can be used as the basis for a classic blind area. The procedure for performing the work is as follows: a shallow (about 10 cm) trench is dug around the perimeter of the house, wet clay is poured into it and compacted tightly. After drying, the clay forms a dense mass that can provide the proper level of protection from moisture.

The boundaries of the blind area are curbs; they should be dug into the ground up to half the height.

On top of the clay layer, crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured and compacted tightly. As the last layer, concrete or cement mortar, reinforced or monolithic, is used; a composition of asphalt and artificial filler. Using asphalt concrete, which is popular in urban housing construction, in a private home may not be practical: laying it requires the use of professional equipment and compliance with operating standards. In addition, laying asphalt concrete should be carried out at a material temperature of about +120 degrees and an air temperature of at least +5 degrees.

For styling stone blind area you will have to stock up on enough cobblestones and stones. In this case, the trench should have a depth of about 30 cm. Gravel is laid at the bottom of the trench, compacted, then clay is poured in and compacted. To provide protection from moisture, a layer of insulating material - roofing felt - is laid below and above the clay layer. Next, they begin to construct the decorative layer: selected stones are laid on the cement mortar.

Most quality option experts believe monolithic type of blind area. A monolithic blind area at home can be done with your own hands if the owners are familiar with the technology for performing such work. In addition, it will require serious financial expenses. In order to fill the trench, only clean sand is used, it is compacted and filled with a layer of concrete 6 to 8 cm thick. The concrete must be of good quality and resistant to freezing. The structure must be strengthened with reinforcement laid on the base before pouring concrete.

We should also not forget about the need to create an expansion joint in the monolithic structure. For this purpose, carefully selected and treated resin and by special means board. Preference should be given to boards with a thickness of more than 15 mm. The expansion joint will prevent cracking of the monolithic coating and increase its resistance to mechanical loads with sudden changes.

How to properly make a blind area at home with your own hands

Now let’s look in detail at how to make a blind area at home using reinforced slabs made by yourself. Making them is not very difficult. To create the slabs, you will need to make a formwork measuring 60x60 cm. It is recommended to make it on two slabs located next to each other. The height of the slab is 3 cm. The formwork boots are assembled in such a way that after the sand-cement mortar has hardened, they can be easily disassembled.

For increase quality characteristics It is recommended to reinforce the slabs; for a 3 cm thick slab it is very important to provide additional rigidity. Any mesh with a cell size larger than 8x8 cm can be used as a reinforcing component. Cells that are too large will lead to a decrease in strength and rigidity. finished product. Any material can be used as a reinforcing component. hardware, for example, a cable or wire, but always cleared of insulation.

After making the formwork, you can begin making the slabs. The base of the formwork will need to be covered with polyethylene. The film should be carefully leveled. Next, the formwork is filled 2/3 in height with a solution prepared from 3 parts sand and 1 part cement, the prepared reinforcing mesh is laid, and the rest of the solution is added until the desired height is obtained.

To improve the setting process, the surface of the tiles is covered with burlap. The formwork can be removed after 3-4 days. Slabs made in this way can be used even if the drainage is not properly organized. Plates laid on a prepared base will last a long period; moreover, their service life can be extended by periodically rotating the slab 90 degrees.

In addition, self-made slabs will help improve the area around the house and make it more decorative look: if desired, dyes can be added to the solution different shades- the slabs will be colored.

Blind area made of paving stones and paving slabs

Today, the construction market is saturated with all kinds of paving slabs and paving stones, their prices are quite affordable, so often instead handmade slabs for blind areas resort to purchasing ready-made finishes. Industrially manufactured slabs have their advantages:

• they are very easy to install,
• if necessary, damaged fragments can be easily replaced with new ones,
• Such tiles are resistant to high loads, moisture and low temperatures.

It is quite possible to construct a blind area at home with your own hands. In order for the blind area to last for a long time, you will need to properly prepare its base. A trench about 40-50 cm deep is dug around the house, a layer of drainage is laid in it: gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand with a thickness of 25 to 35 cm. The recommended slope of the paving slab blind area is from 5 to 10%, this is done at the stage of installing the drainage system . The minimum slope value is 1.5%, i.e. about 8 mm for every about.5 m of blind area.

A gap of a couple of centimeters should be left between the foundation and the blind area, otherwise at subzero temperatures the tiles, expanding, will create additional pressure on the foundation, which is extremely undesirable. The gap can be filled with sand or polystyrene and closed with several layers of roofing material.

After the drainage layer, a layer is constructed reinforced concrete, pour in the dry mixture, level it and compact it, lay tiles on it. An attractive factor in the use of paving slabs can be considered the variety of their shape, size, and wide range of colors.

When choosing optimal option When performing a blind area around the house, you should definitely take into account not only financial side issue and the external attractiveness of the finishing material, in order for the blind area to last for a long time, first of all, it will be necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the soil structure on the site, its geographical location, quality drainage system roofs of the house.

Any building, regardless of its functional purpose, needs a blind area. It gives it completeness and makes it invulnerable to weather conditions. The laying technology requires the implementation of a number of rules. But even non-professionals can follow them. All work can be done with your own hands, without outside help.

What is it for?

A blind area can often resemble a path around a house, but it has much more functions.

A blind area is a waterproof covering, soft or hard, up to 1.2 m wide, laid around the perimeter of the building.

The blind area performs a number of important functions:

• Protects the foundation from external waters. Rain or melted snow can seep underneath and into best case scenario fall into the basement, and in the worst case, destroy the cement mortar and provoke subsidence of the structure, shortening its service life.
• Minimizes the risk of soil heaving, as a result of which the foundation may be subject to additional loads due to soil shifts. This can lead not only to cracks or flooding, but also to damage to the integrity of the building.
• Protects against freezing of the soil under and around the building. In other words, it has thermal insulating properties, thanks to which you can save on heating.
• Protects the foundation from tree roots or burrowing animals through which water leaks.
• Gives the building a beautiful, finished appearance.
• Provides access to any point along its perimeter, regardless of weather conditions, as it can be used as a path.

The main thing is that it should be laid immediately after the completion of the basic work on building the house, but before the onset of cold weather. In addition, it is important to ensure that at least a year passes between the construction of the foundation and its installation.

The blind area is a complete advantage. The only disadvantage is the type of material used to cover it.

Kinds

A soft blind area will add a little warmth to the design than cold and austere stone or tiles

Based on the type of surface, a distinction is made between hard and soft blind areas. The first is made of concrete, sandstone, asphalt concrete and other materials that ensure the strength of the coating. The second is made from mulched soil or soil with lawn grass, crushed stone or paving slabs.

Pros and cons of a hard blind area

The advantages of a solid blind area are its strength, maintainability and durability. And the disadvantages are that, when laid directly on the ground, it is subject to negative impact at the moment of freezing and thawing of water in it. This gradually leads to the destruction of the foundation and moisture entering the house.

You can avoid exposure to moisture by regularly cleaning renovation work and sealing cracks.

Advantages and disadvantages of soft

Soft blind areas are increasingly used in construction, as they have several advantages over hard ones:

• It is not afraid of seasonal vertical shifts of the soil caused by the freezing and thawing of water at its base. There are no cracks in it through which moisture can enter the foundation, destroying it. It does not need to be constantly repaired, wasting effort, time and money on it.
• The technology for laying it is simplified, since you don’t have to adhere to the slope from the walls of the building.
• It is distinguished by its practicality and aesthetics. A successful choice of external covering - gravel, crushed stone, flowers, climbing bushes or lawn plantings - makes a building with such a blind area spectacular and original.

You can achieve greater efficiency during installation by using penoplex as insulation. It will help reduce the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil around it. Thanks to this, even in the presence of clay soil, installation will occur with less depth of the building’s foundation.

The only drawback of a soft blind area is the need for constant care. Lawn grass it will be necessary to trim, weeds that have grown through the rubble will need to be removed, and the decorative backfill will need to be cleared of debris.

Concrete blind area is ideal for our climate

Classification by material type

• Concrete - its installation does not require special skills or additional funds. Its advantage is practicality, comparative cheapness and functionality. It is ideal for our climate and has only one drawback - the need for regular (once every 1 - 2 years) repair of cracks that appear.
• Cobblestone or rubble - it is laid out from paving stones, stones or paving slabs and serves not only as a protective layer for the foundation, but also decorative element. Such a blind area is inferior to concrete in terms of functionality and installation, since it is more difficult to lay.
• From sand - when using it, the sand must be wetted with a warm solution of liquid glass, and treated with a hardener on top, thanks to which it will turn into sandstone. In this case, he will not be afraid of either weather conditions or excess moisture.
• From clay - such a blind area was made back in Rus'. Its main advantages are its low cost and practicality, and its main disadvantage is the ability to quickly wash out. That is why the clay is covered with crushed stone or other materials on top.

If desired, you can arrange a brick, asphalt or soil blind area, as well as a blind area made of concrete slabs.

An effective blind area is a covering, when laying which not only the top layer, but also the bottom layer - the base - was correctly selected

Each type of blind area deserves attention, but has both advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, builders recommend making your choice taking into account the type of soil - on heaving soils it is better to use soft soil, on less watered soils it is better to use hard soil. Also matters ground floor. If it is available, it is necessary to equip an insulated blind area to reduce heat loss.

Regardless of the choice of materials and method of installation, it is important to follow the technology. An effective blind area is a covering, when laying which not only the top layer, but also the bottom layer - the base - was carefully selected.

Under the concrete blind area you need to make a sand cushion, onto which gravel is poured and the solution is poured. In the case of cobblestones, gravel and sand change places. In this case, the layer of sand cushion should then reach 50 cm, since the cobblestones themselves are pressed into it. Additionally, it is better to lay crumpled clay at the bottom of the trench.

Required Tools

The choice of tools is based on the type of coating. But most often it is:

• roulette;
• level;
• manual rammer;
• buckets;
• hose with sprayer;
• shovel;
• Bulgarian;
• Master OK;
• container for preparing mixtures;
• rope or thick nylon thread for marking;
• pegs made of wood or metal.

Calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out individually, taking into account the width of the blind area and the type of coating. Builders often use certain formulas to calculate the required volume of materials.

You can determine the volume of sand for a sand cushion or the blind area itself by multiplying the length along the perimeter by the height of the sand layer and the width of the blind area. In the same way, the consumption of crushed stone or other soft coating is calculated.

When determining the required volume of reinforcement, the length of the blind area is multiplied by its width.

In the case of tiles, the volume is calculated in a similar way, but builders advise purchasing this material with a reserve.

Preparation

The laying of the blind area is preceded by painstaking preparation, which conventionally consists of several stages.

Determining the size and thickness of the fill

The width of the blind area is calculated based on the type of soil and the length of the roof eaves, but the wider it is, the better it will perform its functions.

The width of the blind area is calculated based on the type of soil and the length of the roof eaves. There is an opinion that the wider it is, the better it will perform the functions assigned to it.

According to GOST, the width of the blind area should be 0.8 - 2 m, depending on the subsidence of the soil on which the building stands, and at the same time it must exceed the size of the cornice overhang by 20 - 30 cm.

The thickness of the fill layers is also regulated by building codes. According to them, the base for a blind area made of clay, crushed stone or sand must have a height of at least 15 cm. The thickness of the fill must be at least 5 cm.

If the blind area performs the function pedestrian path, according to the plan, increased demands are placed on it. In this case, not only its width should increase, but also the thickness of the layers.

When arranging the blind area, we must not forget about the slope. Its absence will lead to rapid destruction of the surface under the influence of accumulated water. And excessive steepness will provoke acceleration of water flows, as a result of which the edge of the blind area at the border with the ground will gradually erode.

The slope is calculated based on the width of the coating. For 1 m of width make 2 - 10 cm of slope. The ideal option is a slope of 2 - 3 cm per 1 m. Thus, the slope will be 3 - 10 degrees.

Preparing the bed

The process of preparing the bed for the blind area is always the most important

The process of preparing a bed for a blind area must be approached responsibly. The old coating must be carefully removed, while also cleaning the part of the foundation that is adjacent to it.

If necessary, at this stage a recess is made under the storm sewer system. You need to dig it on the side opposite to the foundation, and then lay pipes into it.

When calculating the width of the bed, you need to take into account the curbs. If you plan to lay paving slabs, it is reasonable to make the width a multiple of its dimensions. Thus, you can get rid of the need to trim it, thereby saving time.

The depth calculation is calculated based on the number of layers of the blind area and their height. According to building regulations, it should be at least 15 cm. But, as practice shows, it is best to go deeper by 25 - 40 cm.

When installing a blind area on clay soil, you can remove only 30 cm of soil, since in this case there is no need to build a clay castle.

After removing the soil, the bottom must be compacted. The quality of compaction is checked by blows of the tool and confirmed by the absence of soil movement with each effort. After compacting, it is better to treat the surface with herbicides to prevent the growth of weeds and minimize the time for caring for the blind area in the future.

Marking

The quality of markings is checked by the building level

To mark the corners of the bed, pegs are driven in, between which a thick thread or rope is stretched. This stage should not be neglected, since the markings serve as a guide during work.

After its installation, the level checks the quality of work. According to building codes, the curvature of the outer edge of the surface should not exceed 1 cm.

Base structure

The blind area is layered cake

The blind area is a layer cake with different layer thicknesses. The standard technology for its creation consists of several stages:

1. Arrangement of a hydraulic lock - it drains water. To do this, clay 5–10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom. This layer can be made with a slope, then maintaining it at each stage. An alternative to clay is concrete with a layer of 10–15 cm. Ruberoid, geotextile or loose PVC film is laid on top of the concrete or clay. In the latter case, it is better to make a fold near the foundation, thanks to which it can move under the influence of temperature fluctuations of the earth and not tear. If necessary, pipes are laid on top of the film. storm system, which are covered with crushed stone on top to prevent clogging.

In order to minimize the load on the foundation, you need to take care of the gap between it and the blind area. It can be filled with sand, several layers of roofing material or polystyrene foam, thereby providing additional insulation.

2. Laying a sand cushion with a layer of 5 cm to protect the waterproofing from damage by crushed stone. The sand needs to be leveled, watered and compacted. At this stage, you will need a hose with a sprayer, thanks to which uniform watering is carried out. The sand is compacted after drying. If laying of communication pipes is planned, it is carried out at this stage.

3. Installation of the curb. It is carried out according to the finished markings and leveled. Each border is secured with pegs with inside and cement on the outside to prevent the top layer from spreading.

4. Laying crushed stone 5–10 cm thick. The final value is calculated based on the level of precipitation in the region. After backfilling is completed, the pegs to support the curb are removed, and the curb itself is leveled, compacted and covered with sand.

If you have a basement, you can additionally insulate the blind area. To do this, sand is covered in a layer of at least 5 cm, compacted, and sheets of foam plastic are laid on top of it. Sand will help avoid point loads, which this material is afraid of.

Preparation of the solution

Traditionally, concrete mortar is prepared from cement, sand, crushed stone and water

To prepare the solution you will need:

• Portland cement brand M400 is an ideal option, but not the only one;
• clean sifted sand;
• crushed stone with a fraction of 5 – 10 mm;
• water, preferably at room temperature;
• liquid glass or other additives that will make it frost-resistant.

Proportions are determined in each case separately and depend on the brand of concrete. IN classic version they look like this:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts sand;
• 4 parts crushed stone;
• 0.5 parts water.

Water is added to cement to prepare cement laitance. Then sand and crushed stone are mixed into it. After each component, you need to thoroughly stir the resulting mixture (at least 5 minutes) in order to achieve uniformity and the absence of lumps.

Nuances before pouring

1. The slope - we must not forget about it, since it performs the most important function - it drains water. Just 5 degrees is enough. Stretched threads will help simplify the process of arranging it. After pouring the concrete, it is also leveled.
2. Waterproofing. Due to the fact that increased demands are placed on it, since it is designed to protect the foundation, waterproofing material must be overlapped.
3. Insulation. As such, it is best to use polystyrene foam. It does not rot or accumulate moisture, but has excellent thermal insulation properties.
4. Polyethylene or burlap - they must first be prepared in order to cover the filling with them. This will minimize the risk of concrete cracking and extend its service life.

Pouring technology

Formwork is a structure consisting of wooden planks 2 cm thick, laid around the perimeter

Due to the fact that a concrete blind area is an ideal option for use in our climate, it is performed most often.

Its installation is carried out in the following sequence:

To ensure the strength and durability of the structure, it is necessary to make seams across it, every 2 - 3 m. They will prevent the destruction of the blind area during frosts. They are made using wooden slats, treated bitumen mastic to avoid rotting and installed in such a way that their upper parts are flush with the boundary of the concrete pour. Also, such seams are extremely necessary in the corners of the structure.

• Pouring concrete with mandatory leveling and compaction. At this stage you need to remember about the slopes. Pre-installed wooden slats in places of expansion joints they will serve as excellent beacons.

It is advisable to cover the poured concrete with polyethylene or burlap. The latter must be regularly moistened with water. This will prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking. Its drying time is 1 month. During this time, it becomes durable and invulnerable to adverse weather conditions.

DIY installation video instructions

Thermal insulation and painting

Insulation of the blind area must be carried out during its installation. For this purpose, sheets of foam plastic or penoplex are suitable, which are laid on top of the sand cushion and under the reinforcing mesh.

Paint allows you to refresh the design of the yard and prevents premature destruction of the blind area

Upon completion of the construction of the blind area, it is painted. Paint helps prevent structural damage and eliminates the need for frequent repairs. In addition, it makes the blind area spectacular, and the building itself original.

Best suited for coloring polymer paints– acrylic, water-based, polyurethane enamel or primer-enamel. Their main advantage is that there is no need to prime the surface. In addition, many of them are resistant to chemicals, ultraviolet light and moisture. They are applied in 1 - 2 layers to a cleaned surface and dry quickly.

Installation of a blind area is one of the most important stages of construction, carried out strictly in accordance with technology. Despite the huge number of rules, nuances and subtleties of this work, doing it yourself is not so difficult. The main thing is to get necessary materials and tools and be patient. Moreover, in the end it is rewarded not only with attractive appearance, but also comfort, practicality, as well as saving money on heating the house.