How much timber is needed for a house calculator. Calculation of construction of a house made of timber

It doesn't matter if you found a decent one construction company or you decide to make a house out of timber with your own hands - at some stage you just need to calculate the amount of lumber required for its construction. What do you need to know for this? Firstly, how much and what kind of timber is needed for the house. Secondly, how much is there approximately in one cubic meter. And only then you can carry out a simple calculation of the cost of construction and even draw up an approximate estimate.

We calculate the amount (consumption) of material

Let us immediately make a reservation that all the calculations below are approximate. More precise volumes of material can be determined based on a specific project. The cubic capacity of lumber for timber walls can be calculated in the following way:

• calculate the perimeter of the house;
• multiply it by the height of the floor;
• multiply the resulting value by the thickness of the timber;
• As a result, we have the number of cubes for the construction of one floor.

If except external walls It also implies the presence of internal partitions (also made of timber), then they are additionally taken into account. If desired, the material can be calculated not only by volume, but also in pieces, dividing the total volume by pieces.

Let's give specific example: it is necessary to build a small one-story house 5 × 7 m with a simple attic and one partition. The ceiling height is 3 m. In this case, a beam with a cross-section, for example, 150 × 150 mm will be used, and the pediment will also be laid out of it.

Our calculations will look like this:

• perimeter of the house taking into account the length of the partition: (5 + 7) × 2 + 5 = 33 m;
• volume of the walls of the first floor: 33 × 3 × 0.15 ≈ 15 cubic meters. m.;
• We consider the cubic capacity of the timber for the pediment to be approximately half the material required for two walls 5 m long and 3 m high: 5 × 3 × 0.15 = 2.25 cubic meters. m.

In total, approximately 17.25 cubic meters will be spent on the walls. m, or, taking into account the 20% reserve, about 20 cubic meters. m. But it should be understood that we did not take into account, for example, floor beams made of laminated veneer lumber (regular or profiled), as well as other design features. Therefore, you can safely add 5 cubes. As a result of such rough calculations, it turns out that the construction will take approximately 25 cubic meters. (Window and door openings, on the contrary, will reduce the need for lumber.)

How much timber is in a cube

Simple calculations allow you not only to calculate the cubic capacity per house, but also to determine almost the exact number of beams. This is easy to do: just know the required volume of lumber and the volume of the piece to divide one value by the other. Here is a table showing the most common section sizes for a material length of 6 meters.

Beam dimensions

When deciding on them, you need to proceed from economic feasibility. It's about mostly about the thickness of the walls and the thermal conductivity characteristics of the material. Let's consider this in two variations: a summer (country) house and a building for permanent residence.

Thickness and width

The width of the timber should concern the developer only if permanent residence is planned, and even then not always - after all, any wooden wall can be insulated with effective thermal insulation, thereby avoiding losses for “street heating”. For a summer house, it is quite possible to use a section of 100 × 100 mm. Using ordinary unplaned material, you will still have to resolve issues with facade cladding and interior decoration, dealing, for the most part, with the problems of the aesthetics of the result. But for permanent residence it is better to use profiled timber with a width of 150 mm. In this case, you will still have to insulate the walls. As for the thickness, everything is simpler: it just determines the number of beams needed to build the walls. But, meanwhile, this also affects the number of seams between the crowns. To summarize the above:

• the thickness and width of the timber for a country house is practically unimportant (if seasonal accommodation during the warm season);
• For permanent residence, you can choose a larger width, but you will still have to insulate the walls. Or you can save on cubic capacity by betting on high-quality insulation– it will be cheaper and more effective in terms of reducing heat losses.

So to really build warm house without insulation, the thickness of its walls for the Moscow region should be about half a meter. The same effect will be achieved when using 150 × 150 timber and 10–15 cm of thermal insulation.

We draw your attention to the fact that not all manufacturers and sellers of lumber are honest with their customers: you can often encounter an underestimation of the declared cross-section. For example, a 150 × 200 beam actually has a cross-section of 140 × 190 or even less. Be sure to check the actual parameters before purchasing! This will help you avoid getting into trouble, save money and nerves!

Estimate

Before deciding on the choice of builders, start monitoring proposals. To determine the most economically feasible option, ask various competing firms for their estimates for the selected standard or individual project, which includes all costs: the cost of building materials, and fees for all types of implementation construction work.

Regular companies offer such estimates for free. It is noteworthy that different companies the total amounts for the same buildings may differ not only by 10–20%, but also several times. It is advisable to have on hand the most detailed list of works and materials to implement your idea - this is the only way you can avoid additional, unforeseen expenses along the way.

If desired, the estimate can be drawn up independently: by calculating the consumption of materials, multiplying the results by average prices (in total these will be the costs of building materials) and adding on top approximately 50–100% of this amount to pay for the work. Such an approximate calculation can be used to analyze offers from specialized companies.

Before purchasing any building material, it is necessary to determine the required quantity as accurately as possible, otherwise you may lose some amount due to remaining surpluses or the need for additional purchases, as well as the unaccounted for possibility of deception on the part of unscrupulous sellers. Timber, logs, boards and similar wood products, as you know, are sold in cubic meters, which means you need to know in every detail the calculations for determining the volume of these materials, as well as converting the required number of pieces into cubes and back. And in the case of purchasing timber for building a house, when calculating the required amount of this building material, it is also necessary to take into account the design and features of the future building.

Basic calculations - determining volume and converting from pieces to cubes and back

It is very simple to calculate the cubic capacity of timber, boards and similar lumber. To do this, you need to know the thickness, width (height) and length of the product. And, as you know from a school textbook on geometry, you need to multiply these dimensions:

V = T ∙ H ∙ L, where

V – volume of timber, m3;

T – thickness;

H – width;

L – length.

Dimensions before calculation should be given in one unit of measurement: mm, cm or m. It is better in meters, so as not to have to convert from mm 3 or cm 3 to m 3 later.

Timber size table

For example, let’s calculate the cubic capacity of a beam of 150x200. These dimensions, as you know, are indicated in mm. That is, the thickness of the product is 0.15 m and the width is 0.2 m. Standard length timber and boards 6 m (sometimes also indicated in mm - 6000). Or maybe another. But for example, let’s take exactly 6 m. Then the volume of this lumber is:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 = 0.18 m 3.

Now you can convert the required quantity (in pieces) of this product into cubes. Let's say 49 pieces are required:

0.18 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m3.

Knowing the volume of one product, you can also calculate the cube of timber, that is, determine how many units (pieces) there are in 1 m3. To do this, you need to divide 1 cube by the cubic capacity of one product, already calculated or taken from reference tables (in the example under consideration - 0.18 m3):

1 / 0.18 = 5.55555... pcs.

The amount of this type of timber is calculated in the same way for any volume.

Nuances of calculations - how not to make mistakes and not be deceived

As follows from the above methods and calculation examples, it is very easy to calculate the required volume of timber in pieces or cubic meters. However, one must always remember that 1 cubic meter does not contain a whole number of these products. For the example given with dimensions 150x200, length 6 m - 5.55555... pcs. Unscrupulous, most often timber retailers, cleverly take advantage of this.

For example, you need 1 cube of this material from the example. The seller, of course, sells 5 products, but charges the amount for a whole cubic meter. The overpayment will be the cost of half a beam.

Let’s say that to build a house you need the same 49 beams from the example. And if the seller calculates according to the following scheme, then he will have to significantly overpay for the timber received:

• 1 cube – 5 products 150x200, 6 m long;
• 49/5 = 9.8 cubic meters payable.

This is a scam pure water for 5 units of timber. They are superfluous and unnecessary, but will be paid for but not received. In the calculation examples above, the data of 49 products has already been converted into cubes - this is 8.82 m 3. That is, a “particularly enterprising” seller will deceive an inattentive buyer by:

9.8 – 8.82 = 0.98 m 3 timber,

which is 0.98/0.18 = 5.44444... pcs. of this lumber (0.18 – the volume of one product calculated above).

Therefore, the most correct thing would be to calculate in advance exactly the number of units (pieces) of material, and only then, using this data and the dimensions of the timber or board, calculate their actual cubic capacity.

That is, in the case of purchasing one cubic meter in the example above, you must first decide how many beams you really need to take - 5 or 6. And then we calculate their cubic capacity:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 5 (or 6 pcs.) = 0.9 (or 1.08) m 3.

And for 49 units of this timber:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m 3.

Then you will have to pay exactly for these 0.9 (1.08) or 8.82 cubes, receiving exactly 5 (6) or 49 products. Moreover, both the quantity in pieces and the volume in m3 must be indicated in the invoice for the timber sold by the seller.

Other features of calculating lumber cubic capacity

Another one important feature, which you should know for correct calculation cubic capacity of timber or boards when purchasing them. The actual length of lumber is usually always slightly longer than the standard or declared by the manufacturer of this product. So, instead of 6 m, the average length of the timber in question is, as a rule, 6.05 m. This is due to the fact that the ends of the lumber are not processed after cutting, which is why they may turn out to be uneven, go at angles, and be different, or simply be dirty. Of course, you don’t have to pay for these 5 cm. But some cunning sellers, although quite rarely, still try to take even this into account when calculating cubic meters, which is pure deception.

And regarding calculations for tongue and groove and profiled timber. The presence of tenons, grooves, and other protruding or chiseled places should not be confusing. Calculating the cubic capacity of such materials is no different from determining the volume of ordinary products that are even on all sides. For tongue-and-groove and profiled lumber, the rule is that only the main part (working width) of the product is measured and taken into account, and all structurally necessary and/or decorative elements are not taken into account in calculations. This provision applies to absolutely all types of timber.

Purchase of large volumes of materials - calculation of folded and dense cubic meters

When it is necessary to purchase a large amount of timber, their cubic capacity is calculated somewhat differently than discussed above. For example, timber and boards are needed to build an impressive, spacious house, as well as various other outbuildings near it. At the same time, the necessary lumber will certainly be available different sizes in cross section and length. Measuring and calculating each type of required material for such purchase volumes is an activity that can take more than one day.

For such cases, there is a specific calculation method. It is based on two important concepts:

1. 1. Dense cubic meter of wood. This is the name given to a volume occupied only by wood and without voids or gaps in it. It is determined by measuring individual timber pieces individually, and then subsequently calculating their total cubic capacity.
2. 2. Folded cubic meter. This is the name given to the volume occupied by lumber stacked as densely as possible and having voids, as well as gaps between individual wood products. It is determined by measuring the stack and then multiplying the dimensions of the latter. Moreover, in such a package the main amount of material should have approximately the same length, and the remaining products can be shorter, but not longer. It is allowed to have short lumber in the stacks, which should be stacked tightly one after another.

In order to quickly calculate the large volume of required purchased lumber, which has already been prepared and stored in the form of a stack, the latter is first measured and then its cubic capacity is calculated. This will calculate the fold cubic capacity. Then its value must be multiplied by a special conversion factor. The result will be a volume of only wood (a dense cubic meter), that is, exactly those materials that are purchased and will be paid for.

The value of the conversion factor is regulated by a number of standards for lumber: GOST 6782.2-75, 6782.1-75, 6564-84, OST 13-24-86 and others. For timber and boards, depending on their moisture content and the type of wood from which they are made, the value is in the range of 0.74–0.82.

We calculate the required cubic capacity of timber for building a house

• The height of the external walls, measured from the foundation level. Let's denote it as H.
• The height of the internal partition walls, if they exist and should be made of timber.
• The length of the outer and interior walls.
• Number and length of bars used in rafter system, as floor beams and, as well as in its other structures - if provided for by the project.

Then we select the thickness of the material for each of the above structural elements. For external and internal load-bearing walls depending on the purpose of the house being built and the region where it is being built. For non-load-bearing partitions - at your own discretion. The base (lowest) crown of external walls is usually slightly thicker than the rest of the timber for them. For other structural elements, the thickness of the material is selected based on its operating conditions, as well as the required strength of the structures in which it is used. In a well-drafted project, by the way, the thickness of the timber used for the walls, plinth crown, and other structures of the building should already be indicated.

Now all that remains is pure arithmetic. First, we calculate the perimeter of the house - add up the length of all its external wall structures. For a simple rectangular or square structure, you just need to add its width and length, and multiply the resulting value by 2. Then we calculate the cubic capacity of the base crown:

V C = T C ∙ Z C ∙ I, where

V C – total cubic capacity of basement lumber, m 3;

T Ts – thickness of the base product, m;

Z T – its width (height), m;

I – perimeter of external walls, m.

We calculate the remaining height of the external walls, m:

h = H – Z Ts, where

H – total height, m.

We calculate the area of ​​external wall structures without a plinth, m2:

If the thickness of the material of the base crown is the same as that of the entire wall, then the area of ​​the latter, m 2:

We calculate the area of ​​the internal walls, the thickness of the lumber of which is the same as that of the external ones, m2:

S B1 = H B ∙ L B1, where

H В – height of internal walls, m;

L B1 – total (total) length of internal walls, the material thickness of which is the same as the external ones, m.

We calculate the area of ​​the internal walls, the thickness of which is different, m2:

S B2 = H B ∙ L B2, where

L B2 - total length of internal walls, the thickness of the material is different, m.

We calculate the cubic capacity of the main lumber - for external walls and internal partitions made of the same timber, m 3:

V S = (S H + S B1) ∙ Z S, where

Z S – selected product thickness, m.

We determine the volume of material for internal partitions from other timber, m3:

V B = S B2 ∙ Z V, where

Z B is the selected material thickness for these partitions, m.

We divide the results obtained (V C, V S and V B) by the length of the purchased lumber and its selected width (height). You will get the amount of material in pieces. We round this value to a whole value, and then recalculate V C, V S and V B, as described in the second chapter.

To save on lumber, you should calculate the total areas of window, door and other openings for the corresponding walls. Then their values ​​must be subtracted from S H, S B1 and S B2, respectively. After this, we calculate V S and V B using the same formulas. Then we increase the obtained values ​​by 10–20% - so that there is a reserve just in case.

The cubic capacity of the timber for the remaining elements of the house in which it is used is calculated even easier. Its total length is calculated and multiplied by the thickness and width selected for the material.

10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:100,100,0,260;195,195,0,260;0,100,100,100;100,195,139,139;195,290,100,100|1127:139,139|1327:75,37;75,109|1527:195,37;195,109|2244:0,33;0,157;290,157|2144:34,0;34,260;129,260;224,260|2417:290,34;290,67|2317:169,0|1927:132,-20

RUB 1,153,698.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

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Example of a 10x9 m layout for calculation	Structural diagram
		1. Wooden beams 150x150mm; 2. mineral wool slabs d=100mm; 3. Facing with siding; 4. Air channel d=20-50mm; 7. Wooden-beam ceilings d=150-250mm; 8. Sheets of corrugated sheets; 9. Monolithic slab foundation with block walls h=1.8m;

Timber-timber wall finished with siding panels and interlayer thermal insulation

Timber-beam wall

The high popularity of timber and log construction among our fellow citizens is predetermined by the traditional nature, accessibility and healing aura of forest house construction.

The features of a wooden dwelling have been proven to normalize the level of humidity within 45-55%, saturate the premises with fintocides, and also have a pacifying effect on the psyche of people.

It is worth noting that recently there has undoubtedly been a growing interest in molded, in particular, prefabricated laminated timber material, which is characterized, in comparison with non-glued solids, by increased (due to adhesive joints) heat-saving and strength properties, as well as significantly lower shrinkage properties . Without a doubt, the disadvantage that slows down the mass use of laminated veneer lumber is its significant price, which, however, is more than justified by its long service life.

In construction warehouses it is possible to see timber products of standard sizes 140x140, 100x100, 120x120, 150x150, 180x180, 200x150, 150x100, of which the most used size is 150x150 mm, since it has an optimal balance of structural characteristics and low cost, as well as the complexity of installation , expressed by the number of sealed interrow joints.

Standard diagram for assembling a house made of timber:

• First, on the foundation, covered with a waterproof film, along the contours of the walls, a lower row of timber is installed, which is connected by a tenon insert at the corners and at the joining points of the internal partitions.
• In order to join the logs together, dowels are used - round oak or birch dowels with a diameter of 3.0-4.0 cm, which are installed effortlessly into holes made through three rows of beams, every 0.3÷0.4 m. Quite often, dowels are replaced with large nails (25÷30 cm), with the obligatory execution of a groove in the upper log, 30...40 mm deep, into which the nail is placed, to compensate for the linear compression of the lumber during shrinkage.
• So that during the shrinkage process wooden house windows and doors are not deformed, door and light openings are framed in vertical areas with “casing” - profile posts. In this case, a U-shaped tenon is cut out at the ends of the rows of timber, along which the mentioned timber profiles move, due to the corresponding recess. Above windows and doors, technological gaps are arranged and filled with fiberglass or felt insulation.
• When erecting walls, log rows are laid with a seam seal (flax batting, hemp, jute, flax jute, felt, tow), which after 9-12 months (or when the water content of the log house reaches 12-15%) will have to be caulked again to minimize heat loss through inter-beam joints.
• When choosing interior decoration should be taken into account seasonal deformations timber-log walls and, when installing inelastic cladding (for example, plasterboard sheets), avoid direct connections with timber wall, by adding suspended buffer frame structures.

Siding cladding

If all-season residence is planned, the log cottage should also be covered with thermal insulation. As a rule, they are attached from the outside, in a vertical position. wooden joists, with dimensions of 100x50 mm, with an interval of 400-600 mm, between which insulation is laid (for example, type: P-175, Ursa, Izomin, P-125, Knauf, Rockwool, PPZH-200, Isover, Isorok), after which hydraulic -and windproof film (Izospan, Yutavek, Tyvek), secured with a counter-lattice, 25÷50 mm thick, onto which a decorative false wall (painted lining, DSP panels or plastic siding) is attached.

Due to the fact that the vinyl siding profile changes quite a lot linear dimensions during fluctuations temperature regime, then you need to use loose fastening of vinyl plates.

Today manufacturers plastic siding(for example, brands: Nordside, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Docke, Vytec, Snowbird, Tecos, Ortho, FineBer, Gentek, Mitten, AltaProfil, Holzplast) offer a rich color palette, giving any home the opportunity to look different from the rest.

It is important to consider that PVC siding can remain attractive appearance and last a long time only if the installation instructions are followed punctually.

PVC siding is resistant to chemical, atmospheric, mechanical factors, is not subject to corrosion, and does not support combustion.

In a fire, a polyvinyl chloride profile only melts, igniting when heated to at least 390°C (and wood is already at 230-260°C), quickly extinguishing when the source of heating is removed, and the volume of carcinogenic heating products is no more than when smoldering wooden structures.

Basic technological rules for fastening PVC siding:

• When hanging the next siding strip, snap it onto the locking protrusion with the underlying strip and, without pulling it, secure it with screws;
• In order to disguise seams, hanging vinyl panels it is better to do it starting from the rear wall of the building, moving to the front wall, and each subsequent siding strip will cover the one already installed in the row being performed, by about 2.5...3 cm, for the same purpose, the resulting joints, for adjacent rows, need to be shifted horizontally.
• The mounted siding plates should move easily left and right; to do this, do not tighten the screws in the mounting slots all the way.
• In places where external communications are carried out (wires, brackets, cables, pipes), as well as at connection points plastic panel and accessories (H-profile, internal corner, external corner, platband, etc.), it is necessary to provide cuttings of about a centimeter to ensure thermal contractions or expansions of PVC siding.
• In order not to interfere with thermal contractions and stretching and, thus, not to provoke point arching PVC material, screw self-tapping screws or nail nails into the siding profile in the center of the finished factory holes.
• Vinyl profiles are fastened from the bottom up, according to the instructions; first, a special starting profile is installed.

Slab reinforced concrete foundation with block prefabricated tape

The slab-side base is installed along the perimeter of the external walls of the building in the form of a solid reinforced concrete slab, on which standard concrete blocks are placed.

The type of foundation under consideration is practiced in low-rise buildings to form the basement level of a house, on unstable lands, provided low level groundwater. In waterlogged areas, the side walls of the foundation should be made in the form of a continuous reinforced concrete strip, using waterproof coatings: gluing, coating, impregnation.

Along with this, the prefabricated block system vertical walls foundation, on a ready-made reinforced concrete slab, is optimal for fast construction rates, as well as for the production of a “zero” cycle during the cold period.

Standard execution sequence one slab foundation side parts in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete strip:

• First of all, the earth is dug out to the designed depth.
• Crushed stone, 40/60 in size, 150-200 mm thick, is poured onto the resulting base and compacted thoroughly.
• Sand-cement filling is carried out, 50 mm thick.
• A waterproof film is spread with an extension of 180-200 cm along the edges for lateral waterproofing of the sides of the foundation base.
• To protect the moisture-proofing layer from possible ruptures during welding of the reinforcement structure, a second layer of cement mortar, 40 mm thick, along the perimeter of which formwork is placed at the height of the foundation slab.
• The formed slab is reinforced with two rows of welded iron rods with a diameter of Ø14, type AII, with a pitch of 20x20 cm.
• For slab foundations, only ready-made concrete, grade M300, class B22.5, transported by a concrete mixer, is allowed.
• The duration of concrete hardening (when it is already permissible to install a perimeter from FBS blocks) is at least 4 weeks in warm weather.
• The installation of wall blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, controlling the alignment with the theodolite. The prefabricated blocks are guided by a truck crane onto a “bed” of mortar.
• It is more correct to begin installation by laying beacon blocks at the intersections of axes and in the corners of the building. You should start arranging linear blocks only after checking the position of the reference blocks along the horizon and level.
• Using the last row of FBS blocks, in board formwork, a reinforced mortar screed is produced, 250 mm high.

Beam-wood floor

Floors from wooden beams traditionally popular in dacha construction, due to the convenience and cost-effectiveness of their manufacture.

Wood is traditionally used for joists coniferous species(for example: spruce, larch, pine), with a moisture content of no more than 14%. It is known that the strongest beam is a block with an aspect ratio of seven to five (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).

When calculating lumber for flooring, it is necessary to be guided by special tables that take into account the dependence of the parameters of the beam structure on the span size and load; or you can start from the simplified rule that the width of the beam should be about 0.042 of the width of the room, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with a laying step of beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 150 kgf/m².

If there is a shortage of lags of sufficient size, it is permissible to use bolted boards, while leaving the overall size unchanged.

Characteristic moments of installing a beam-and-timber floor:

• in wooden log houses, the edges of the beams are hemmed in the shape of a funnel, and then driven into the finished opening of the upper crown to the entire depth of the wall.
• The lag is installed in the following sequence: first the first and last, and then, with control by the bubble level, all the remaining ones. The beams should be placed on the wall structure by at least 15-20 cm.
• To avoid possible damage by rot, which may occur during diffusion of steam in a masonry niche, the ends of the beam boards are sawed off at an angle of about 60°, coated with an antiseptic solution (Biosept, KSD, Teknos, Senezh, Pinotex, Cofadex, Tikkurila, Biofa, Aquatex, Holzplast , Tex, Kartotsid, Dulux) and cover with roofing felt, keeping the end open.
• The beam beams are set back from the wall by at least 5 cm, and the distance between the beams and the smoke duct must be at least 40 cm.
• Typically, in brick structures, the edges of the beams are located in the masonry openings in which moisture condenses; for this reason, between the end parts of the beams and the masonry, space is left for ventilation, and if the groove depth is significant, another layer of thermal insulation is installed.

The interfloor ceiling is not insulated, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier membrane on top of the thermal protection, and the upper level ceiling is thermally insulated with the laying of a vapor barrier layer at the bottom of the insulation.

Since the problem of structural reliability of wood-beam inter-level floors is mainly removed by obviously increasing the cross-section of the joists and their number, then with fire resistance and noise insulation everything does not look so clear.

One of the options for increasing the sound-proofing and fire-retardant parameters of wood-beam interfloor ceilings consists of the following points:

• From the bottom of the load-bearing logs, at an angle of 90 degrees, using spring brackets, after 0.30-0.40 m, metal profiles - sheathing, on which gypsum fiber boards are suspended from below.
• A synthetic film is spread over the manufactured lattice structure and stapled to the beams, onto which slab mineral fiber insulation is tightly laid out, for example: Isover, Isorok, Knauf, Ursa, Isomin, Rockwool, in a layer of 5 centimeters, with a rise to the vertical surfaces of the floor beams.
• In the rooms of the upper level, chipboard sheets (16÷25 mm) are screwed onto the beams with self-tapping screws, after which, a high-density basalt fiber sound insulator (2.5...3.0 cm), and again, plywood slabs are laid to prepare the floor.

Corrugated roof

Corrugated sheet material consists of sheets of molded metal of a trapezoidal shape, painted with a zinc layer, which are marked with symbols such as B-45, NS44, NS35, MP-35, H57, H44, H60, NS18, S-21, where the numbers indicate the size of the profile section.

The main advantages of a corrugated roof, in comparison with metal tiles, are the minimum costs and speed of implementation.

To decorate the roof, corrugated sheeting with a corrugation amplitude of 2 cm is used to ensure the required strength and economical use lathing material. The working angle to the roof horizon is considered to be at least 1:7.

The roof is installed on load-bearing structure, composed of sheathing preparation and rafter elements.

When constructing private buildings, a 2.3-span structure with inclined roof trusses and intermediate supporting walls.

The supporting ends of the rafter beams are lowered onto a mauerlat with a section of 10x10-15x15 cm; the interval between rafter beams is usually about 600-900 mm with a cross-section of rafter beams of 50x150-100x150 mm.

Standard installation procedure for profiled metal sheets:

• A roof using corrugated steel sheets, like every other roofing base made of rolled steel, when arranging a warm attic space, involves the use of an under-roof waterproofing membrane, such as: Izospan, Stroizol SD130, Tyvek, Yutavek 115,135, TechnoNIKOL, which covers the inter-rafter heat-insulating material from dripping condensate water.
• The waterproof membrane is installed horizontally, from bottom to top, with an inter-tier overlap of 10÷15 cm and a sag between the rafters of about 20 mm, with further gluing of the seam line with adhesive tape.
• To remove unnecessary inter-tier joints, the long side of the profiled sheet is chosen similar to the transverse size of the roof slope, plus 20...30 centimeters, taking into account the overhang.
• The interval between the sheathing bars is determined by the slope of the roof slope and the thickness of the profile relief: if the profile grade is C-8-C-25, and the slope is steeper than 15 °, then the gap between the sheathings is 400 mm, and for the NS-35÷NS-44 nomenclature - about 0.7÷1.0 m.
• To avoid lifting of the corrugated sheets during gusts of wind, their fastening should be carried out from the lowest corner of the end cut of the roof, opposite to the prevailing direction of the wind flow.
• The corrugated sheets are fixed to the sheathing boards with galvanized self-tapping screws, 28...40, Ø4.8 mm long, with sealing washers, in the deflection of the wave, and the ridge corners, on the contrary, in the crest of the wave. Along the cornice, fixation is carried out on all lower zones of the profile relief, and the consumption of screws is considered to be 6 ÷ 8 units. per m2 of profiled material.
• The longitudinal overlap of corrugated sheets should be done in one wave, but if the slope of the roof slope is less than 12 degrees - in two corrugated waves.

A log house is relevant, but not always convenient, since the walls need to be leveled with cladding; a wooden profile is much more practical, so sometimes it’s better calculate the amount of timber per house.

What do you need to know to calculate the amount of timber for a house?

– is this a little or a lot, and how many crowns of the house will this amount of timber be enough for? In fact, this is not such a large number of wood processing industry products. In particular, six-meter beams with a width and height of sides of 200 millimeters each will amount to only 4.17 pieces, or, since sellers like to round down, only 4 units. True, if you need more than 10 cubic meters, such rounding can play a cruel joke, and you will be missing one or even two lumber that you need so much. Therefore, you need to calculate the amount of timber per house as accurately as possible.

To begin with, determine the dimensions of the future building, that is, the length and height of the walls, the area of ​​windows and doorways, pitch frequency of the crossbars (it is unlikely that in a wooden house you will pour a monolithic concrete slab). You will also need to take into account the height rafter legs, and if the pediments are made in the same style as the building, then their geometry. In other words, immediately figure out where you will use the timber and include all the nuances in the calculations. Also immediately consider the options of using profiled, glued or unplaned beams; the latter are cheaper, but will decrease somewhat in size after processing on site.

Concerning overall dimensions, then from the existing options with a section of 100x100, 150x100, 120x120, 140x140, 150x150, 200x150, 180x180 and 200x200 centimeters, the golden mean is usually chosen. Dimensions 150x150 fully meet the requirements for timber, both in terms of thermal conductivity and ease of assembly. Reducing the dimensions will lead to an increase in the amount of materials, and therefore to greater labor costs, even if the volume in cubes is the same. An increase in size will mean an increase in the cost of the timber and its weight.

Let's use the timber calculator in practice

Since rarely does anyone buy (and sell) lumber individually, when tens or hundreds of units of one type or another are required, we need to determine how many cubes of wood we need to purchase. To do this, you need to know the dimensions of the house, and since they are reflected in the plan, it is enough to include them in the timber calculator. Let's say a small country cottage is being built, 6x5 meters, with a ceiling height of 3 meters. It is best to buy an appropriate wooden profile, six meters long. Knowing the height of the wall, we divide it by the cross-sectional side of the lumber we have chosen. Since we previously settled on dimensions of 150x150 centimeters, we get 3/0.15 = 20 beams, which will make up the wall of the building.

It must be said that insulation is usually laid between the crowns, which should increase the height, however, the shrinkage of the wooden profile compensates for this error in our calculation. We add a plinth crown, which gives 21 beams, and then we calculate how many similar woodworking products will be produced in the entire building. To do this, we multiply the result we obtained earlier by 4 (by the number of walls). However, it is unlikely that there will be one room in the house, so a fifth wall immediately appears, an internal one, which can also be permanent, taking into account a minimum span of 5 meters. So, we multiply by 5. As a result, it turns out that 105 beams are needed to build a house. Too much? Let's see how you can save money.

Let us remember that the premises must have windows and doors, which mean the presence of significant openings. Let's say the entrance from the street is planned in a five-meter facade, exactly in the middle, and it will be exactly a meter wide. Since the crowns here are one meter shorter than the actual length of the beam, it turns out that we need 2-meter sections to form the doorway. Then from every two beams you will get exactly three crowns on this side. If interior door between the rooms will be on the edge, four-meter profiles will be needed there, the trimmings of which can also well be used to create an external opening. Thus, for every three crowns of this wall we save one beam until the lintel is laid over the entrance.

Sometimes the ends of the lumber from which the house is built are sawn in the form of tenons, in door and window openings rest against the groove of the riser, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the wall.

If the height of the door is 2.1 meters, we will have 14 crowns, that is, the remainder will be 4 six-meter wooden profiles. In the same way, you can save on windows by correctly arranging them in the overall layout of the premises, and then, quite possibly, you will no longer need 105, but some 98 beams. Use those that you can win for attic floor and fastening the rafters, since such material will not work as interfloor joists, you need a profile whose sides are in a ratio of 7:5, with the height being the first in proportion.

How to calculate a cube of timber for a house - the simplest method

We have already obtained the result necessary for further calculations, namely the number of wooden profiles that will be needed for construction. Now you need to determine how to calculate a cube of timber for a house, and how much lumber is needed. Knowing the dimensions of the woodworking product from which the crowns are knitted, it is not difficult to obtain its volume. In our case, this will be the formula V = h . b . l = 0.15 . 0.15 . 6 = 0.135 cubic meters, Here h– beam height, b– width, and l- length. Let's find out how many units of lumber are in 1 cube as follows: 1/0.135 = 7.41 pieces. They may not sell that much, sellers don’t like to cut six-meter beams, so they can reduce it to 7, or they will have to pay extra up to 8 beams.

But, since we need a lot of materials, and we know that the number of profiles will be integer, we calculate how many cubic meters of wooden profile will have to be transported to the site. We multiply the total quantity by the volume of one, let’s say we managed to save money and actually got 98 bars, then we get 0.135 . 98 = 13.23 cubes. However, all these calculations can be eliminated if you use the following table.

The amount of timber in 1 cubic meter. to calculate timber for a house

You can go more in a simple way. To do this, we calculate the perimeter of the house, multiply it by the height of the walls and get the total area of ​​​​the outer surface of the building, excluding the roof. Next, subtract the area of ​​window and door openings, if necessary high accuracy, or leave it as is, if the savings are not critical. The calculation is completed by multiplying by the thickness of the timber. In our case, the short formula will look like this: V = P. H. b = 27. 3. 0.15 = 12.15 cubic meters excluding the base crown and based on the fact that 3 walls are 5 meters each. As you can see, this calculation is less accurate, since the length of all lumber is 6 meters, and we took many of them as five meters.

When carrying out construction work on the construction of a residential building, a specialist must perform a large number of different tasks, one of which is: drawing up and calculating the estimated cost before the final finishing of the premises of a residential building. It is mandatory to calculate the required amount of various building materials, which is quite difficult to do. Therefore, such knowledge - how many boards are in a cube - is very important for a specialist who is engaged in the construction of a residential building and wants to complete the work as efficiently and quickly as possible.

Buying club: existing types of boards

To calculate exactly how many board pieces are in a cube, you will need to know not only what exactly a board cube means, but it is worth understanding important point that there are different types of boards and what is possible to purchase on the modern market for performing a variety of construction work. It should be noted that the cube of almost all materials, regardless of the type of material, is calculated in the same way, that is, according to one specific method. The types of boards have no influence on the calculation of the cubic capacity of this building material.

Non-grooved types of lumber are: timber, various edged boards, as well as unedged boards (they are an exception when calculating cubic capacity, because this process occurs a little differently). Tongue-and-groove types (which have special grooves for making joints) include: modern lining, blockhouse, flooring material, as well as imitation of natural timber. When you choose a tongue-and-groove type of building material for purchase, then you will need to pay attention to the fact that when making calculations, only the working width of the board without a tenon is used. If we talk about a blockhouse (imitation log), then when calculating the cubic capacity, only the thickness at its highest point is taken.

How many boards are in 1 cube: performing the calculation

Any person, even from his school days, understands how cubic capacity is calculated. For this procedure, it is necessary to calculate quantities such as: length, width and height. A similar principle is used to calculate the cubic capacity of 1 board. When performing such calculations, it is recommended to convert all available values ​​into meters. The cubic capacity of 1 board, which has a cross-section of 150x20 mm. and a length of 6 m, is calculated as follows: 0.15 multiplied by 0.02 and 6, so that the cubic capacity of this board will be 0.018 cubic meters.

Let's apply the volume formula V= L*h*b (where L is length, h is height, b is width).

L= 6.0; h= 0.02; b= 0.15.

Thus, V= 6.0*0.02*0.15 = 0.018 m3.

To determine how many boards are in one cube: divide 1 m3 by cubic capacity (the volume of one board).

1 m 3 / V = ​​N pcs.

1 m 3 / 0.018 m 3 = 55.55 pcs.

Thus, the number of boards in one cube is 55.5 pieces.

Finding out the cost of a certain type of board when the values ​​of its volume is known is quite easy: 0.018 multiplied by the price of 1 cubic meter. When 1 cube of a certain type of board costs, for example, 5,500 rubles, then the cost will be 99 rubles. At this point in the calculation, there is some trick of sellers and managers in construction stores, because the cubic capacity of the material is rounded to some integer values.

Such rounding can lead to such a moment that the price of 1 board (when 1 cube costs 5500) will be completely different values. In addition to all this, it should be noted that various boards for construction, which have a nominal length of 6 meters, actually have a length of 6.1 - 6.2 m, which is not taken into account when selling this building material. This also applies to the purchase of a significant number of boards. This can be seen quite clearly if we use a 150x20 mm board as an example. The number of boards in a cube is a value of 55.5 pcs. But, in a cube they count 55 pieces, which when performing the calculation will have a value of 0.99 cubic meters. In fact, it follows from this that the overpayment for 1 cubic meter of this popular building material can amount to 1% of the real price. For example, 5500 instead of 4995 rubles.

To calculate the cubic capacity for a continuous type of board, slightly different methods are used. When the conversation is about buying 1 board, then measure its thickness, as well as total length are carried out in the same way as when choosing edged building material. In this case, the average width is taken for calculations - between great value and small.

For example, when the width of the board at one end is 25 cm, and at the other 20, then the average value will be approximately 22 centimeters. When it is necessary to calculate the volume of a significant number of similar boards for construction, then you will need to lay them out so that the wide one does not differ from the narrow one, more than 10 cm. The main length of this material in the laid out stack should be approximately the same. After this, using a regular tape measure, an accurate measurement is made of the height of the entire existing stack of boards, and the width is measured (approximately in the very middle). The result obtained will then need to be multiplied by a special coefficient, amounting to a value from 0.07 to 0.09, directly dependent on the existing air gap.

How many boards are in 1 cube: special tables

To calculate the exact number of boards of a certain width and length in 1 cubic meter, various tables are used. Below are several such specialized tables, which indicate the cubic capacity of the common and in demand types of this material today. It is possible to calculate the volume of various boards of different sizes, for example, material for erecting a fence on your site, using the existing formula presented above.

Table of the amount of edged boards in 1 cubic meter

Table of the amount of timber in 1 cubic meter

Table of the amount of unedged boards in 1 cubic meter