The table is wobbly, what to put on it. Useful tips for furniture repair and improvement

Wear and tear usually takes its toll. Of particular concern to table owners are the joints at the top of the legs.

When placed under significant pressure, they can weaken and even fall off. Often problems arise that are associated with existing folding boards, which can sag, and extensions retractable mechanisms that break or jam. Many problems can be easily fixed if you know how to repair a table.

Most tables designed for home use, consist of a table top, which is attached to a frame and is a rectangular base made of horizontal narrow straps, tightly connected to the upper sides of the existing legs. Sometimes the frame is connected to the top and the legs are bolted to the frame. In tables of simple design, the legs are attached directly to the underside of the existing top. Similar connections are held together different ways: glue that can lose its strength; dowels and tenons that can break; screws, plates or bolts that may be loosened. Adhesive bonds that have lost their adhesion can easily be restored by applying a new layer of glue there. But in order to restore serious gaps between in separate parts, it may be necessary to disconnect connections, as well as subsequent replacement of broken parts. To complete the repair and make it as high quality as possible, the connection can be strengthened using metal corner plates or wooden blocking.

Repair of a table with a sliding mechanism

How to repair a table that has sliding mechanisms? To repair tables with moving parts, other measures are needed. Damaged sliding table mechanisms can be corrected by cleaning and lubricating its sliding parts; If they are broken, bent or lost, they need to be replaced. The simplest method to repair a sagging board is to wedge it and then glue the wedge to its underside.

It's good to have a glue injector. It will help to introduce glue into all hidden places. Clamps are also an important tool. You'll need G-clamps to seal existing cracks, and girdle clamps to ensure equal pressure is maintained across all glued frame-to-leg joints. When using clamps, you need to place the thinnest pieces of soft wood or cork under their grips to avoid damage to the surface of the clamped elements. In order to close the glued sections, you need to apply the minimum required force, since excessive pressure can lead to all the applied glue being squeezed out, leaving the joint dry and weak.

If you need to secure a part with a keyed joint, you will need a keyed jig (to guide the drill) and keyed metal centers. These tools help ensure accurate placement as well as alignment of all key holes. Dowels that have special grooves, which are made stronger by adhesive bonds, are also useful.

How to get to damaged areas

To get to the damaged connection, you should turn the table over and place it on a fabric folded in several layers at once or on a rug. Remove the tabletop. If it is attached with compressive metal plates, which are inserted into the groove on the frame straps, you should remove the screws and these plates and disconnect the tabletop. If it is supported by screws or bolts to the frame or corner blocks, you need to remove these fastenings.

How to repair a crack

If a crack appears around the socket in the upper area of ​​the leg, glue should be injected into the crack and into the hair hole between the tenon and the socket. It is necessary to compress the connection using two clamps. First, you should install a G-shaped clamp on the upper area of ​​​​the leg in order to close the resulting crack; then place a girdle or tubular clamp, stretching it from the outer side of one leg to the outer side of the other, in order to hold the tenon in its socket. Let the glue dry overnight; then you should remove the clamps.

To level an overhanging folding board, The farthest point should be noted where the table leg or supporting slide touches the bottom side of the board; scrape off the old glue and trim and attach a small tapered wedge to the board. Cut a wedge out of a piece of hardwood, apply glue to the top side of it, and push it between the board and the sled, adjusting it until the board is level. You need to place a weight on the top of this board while the glue dries. After reading this article, you will know how to repair a table.

On the structural influence of seasonal deformations

Any board, be it laminated board or solid wood, is subject to swelling and shrinkage depending on the time of year and fluctuations in humidity. Tightly fixed countertops, deprived of the ability to freely contract and expand, begin to deform under the influence of internal stresses - warp, bend, twist and eventually crack.

With seasonal changes in humidity levels, wood expands and contracts predominantly across the grain. The countertops of a room or kitchen set vary in width within 1 cm, depending on the size of the lid and the type of wood. Linear changes along the fibers are insignificant.

Fastening the tabletop with screws

This is a simple and time-tested option for attaching the table top to the table frames without the use of additional fittings. The special conical extension selected in the frame ensures slight mobility of the screw when changing the size of the tabletop. The cover itself is securely attached to the body.

Having made the basic markings, an end hole is drilled in the drawer. After this, use a wide semicircular chisel to select a pocket for hidden installation screw.

Using a narrow chisel, make an angular expansion on the upper edge of the drawer. The extension of this groove is always done across the grain of the tabletop, since wood expands and contracts in this direction.

Installation using screws in such pockets allows you to get rid of excess structural elements under the table cover. It is traditionally used in furniture classic style, where they prefer to use exclusively wooden parts. For all its advantages, this method hidden fastening quite labor intensive.

Application of small metal Z-brackets- another popular way to attach a tabletop. The main advantages of this method are low cost, maximum simplicity and accuracy of installation, and no need for additional structural elements.

One end of the steel holder is screwed to the table top with a screw. The second is inserted into a groove sawn in the upper edge of the drawer. The recess is made in such a way that the edge of the bracket does not rest against the wood and moves freely in the groove as it expands. Thus, the fasteners allow the tabletop to change its dimensions in any direction without consequences.

Mounting on wooden clamps

Using homemade wooden clamps is simple and reliable way attaching the table top to the tabletop without purchased fittings. Clamps work on the same principle as metal Z-clamps. They are easy to make in series from scraps that can be found in every workshop. Of course, this takes time, but often not much more than it takes to go to the store for accessories.

When making wood clamps, be sure to maintain the correct grain orientation as shown in the diagram to give the bracket proper strength.

Steel figure-eight fasteners are another popular hardware option used to secure countertops. The bracket is installed in a small recess drilled with a Forstner drill or a square recess selected with a chisel so that it is flush with the upper edge of the drawer. The holder is fixed with two screws: one to the body, the second to the back side of the tabletop as shown in the photo. When the board swells or contracts, the bracket rotates slightly, preventing bending wooden lid. The recommended distance between fasteners is 15-20 cm.

There are two types of figure-eight holders: with identical washers and different sizes. In the latter case, a washer with a large diameter is attached to the drawer. When deciding to attach the tabletop to a kitchen or room set in this way, you need to make sure in advance that the thickness of the drawer matches the diameter of the washer.

Using slotted spacers

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side frames of the headset. When changing the width of the tabletop, the screws will move freely in the grooves, thus preventing structural deformations of the wood. Additional strips act as a tie; they increase the rigidity of the body and protect the drawers from deformation.

Fastening the table legs

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the tabletop is, in turn, attached to them. In order to ensure a tight connection between the drawers and the legs and compensate for the shrinkage of the wood during humidity fluctuations, use following methods fastenings.

Joiner joint tenon-socket

Advantages : high strength, absence of additional fittings and unnecessary fasteners, ease of manufacture.

If the table wobbles, it means the binding has come loose.

Table: material, manufacturing technology, diagrams, designs - simple and complex

If nothing is damaged, it can be glued back together. But if you want to be sure, strengthen the harness.

Gaps between the table legs and the frame of the frame, creaking, rocking of the table, etc. are sure signs that something is wrong with the design of the frame. Where the connections have become loose because the glue no longer holds, the table loses stability and requires immediate repair.

If the strapping comes unglued, you cannot do without disassembling the entire structure, because if you simply add glue to the gaping cracks and connect the frame again, it will not last long. Glue must be added where there are contact surfaces, i.e. in the grooves and on the side surfaces of the tenons.

And although in castle design The connection has already weakened, and sometimes it is not so easy to separate the parts from each other. In order not to break off or damage anything, you need to pick up a hammer and knock out short, but with strong blows tenons from grooves. To ensure that the glued areas are held again, you should scrape off old layer glue and remove any remaining mastic or varnish, if any. When applying a new layer of glue, make sure that the legs are vertical and parallel and that the harness frame does not warp. To do this, place the table with its legs up on a flat surface and tighten the clamp evenly and alternately on both sides. The glue must dry before we begin to strengthen the strapping. Now we will work with wood (screwed metal corners do not provide strength and durability). From a single piece of pine or other hardwood, we will make stiffening corners with a thickness of at least half the height of the strapping. The corners have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which are cut into the upper end of the table leg so that contact planes are formed as closely as possible to each other. As a rule, the tops are cut at right angles. When all four corners are in place, the sides are smeared with glue and connected to the harness. Additionally, you can secure the structure with obliquely placed screws.

1. The old elegant table, weakened by age, completely fell apart. But someone who knows how to restore furniture can work a miracle.

2. Fasten the harness and install the legs, if possible, at a right angle.

3. When the areas to be glued are cleaned, the strapping is glued together, tightened with a clamp.

5. Glue the fasteners at the corners of the trim. Can also be secured with screws.

b. Now the frame is absolutely strong, you can mount a tabletop on it.

4. Cut out triangles from a single piece of wood and cut the apex into the edges of the table legs.

7. When the table is standing, additional reinforcing corners are not visible.

Tools:

Hammer, clamp, chisel, narrow hacksaw, screwdriver

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and covered with a single tabletop. Using adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable supports for kitchen units can withstand significant loads and can be made of plastic or metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports have a less than attractive appearance. appearance, but the leg comes with a special clip, with which the kitchen plinth is attached to the support. Kitchen set, installed entirely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom decorative base, which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, you should install decorative ones in visible areas. metal legs- supports.

For one lower module up to 800 mm wide, four kitchen supports are enough. Wider and corner cabinets require more furniture legs. Also, if in the lower module there is vertical partition, it is also advisable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material, installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard using four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all supports to the lowest position, that is, screw them completely.

kitchen with plinth and legs

Turn the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to cover the bottom of the kitchen unit with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to secure the legs. This is done for the purpose that when you stand at the desktop, your feet will not rest against the plinth. Where the legs will not be closed with a plinth, move 50 mm away from the edge.

To fix and install one kitchen leg, move 50 mm away from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Place the kitchen leg on the bottom of the module so that the point is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw in three screws according to the markings, then screw in the fourth. Do the same with the remaining legs.

installing kitchen legs

Then when set to kitchen set all legs, proceed to level the lower cabinets to the tabletop using a level and adjustable supports. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop.

We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then unscrew the remaining supports so they sit firmly on the floor.

Installing legs on a kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult; it requires care and accuracy.

A folding table on a balcony or loggia is a very rational thing. You can read a book behind it. Sit with friends with a bottle of beer. Or drink a cup of coffee.

This article is dedicated specifically to folding structures. Such tables are often confused with stationary ones. In the photo on the Internet when unfolded, both the first and second ones are very similar. But if you take a closer look, the transformable table is more practical. It changes position and takes up virtually no space on the balcony or loggia.

There is only one way to fold at the wall tables on the balcony. When folded, they are pressed against the wall of the loggia. But the mechanism that is responsible for fixing the tabletop makes a big difference.

Convertible table with leg

Like all subsequent types (with the exception of tables with brackets), in this design the tabletop hangs on hinges fixed to the wall. When you lift it to a horizontal position, you simply place the leg as a support from below. And that’s it, the tabletop is holding.

The legs are often made separate, not connected to the main part. As a rule, they are joined in deep hole at the bottom of the tabletop. The essence of this design is that the folded table hangs as close to the wall as possible. Its device is very simple and reliable.

To prevent the support from being lost, the mechanism was improved. It was simply screwed to the bottom of the table. Such a support has, on the one hand, a hinge, and on the other, a stop. Supporting part serves as a recess or piece of lath screwed to a vertical surface with self-tapping screws.

These legs can be attached to the wall. And it is fixed in the recess of the tabletop. As they say, change does not change the essence.

Table with folding support

Supports are usually a stationary thing.

They have a triangular shape or close to it and work in the same way as the upper part itself - on hinges. You lift the lid and move the support to the side. Sometimes it is fixed, for example, with a dowel + recess connection. Magnets or ball fasteners also serve as fasteners.

These tables are reliable and beautiful, but unlike options with a removable leg, they are not as compact. The thicker the tabletop and the leg itself, the further such a table is moved away from the wall. For example, a table with a removable leg extends beyond the wall by 2-3 cm, and a table with a flat support by 6-9 cm.

This difference often plays against such a transformer.

Table with folding arms

Over the past ten years, the industry has begun to produce mechanical brackets for folding tables.

The material for them, as a rule, is iron, ordinary iron, less often stainless steel.

There are usually not many colors in stores; you can find black, white, chrome-plated mechanisms. But there are a great many designs.

The table operates on brackets without hinges. Or rather, there are hinges, but they are implemented inside the bracket.

One part of the bracket is attached to the wall, the other to the tabletop. When the table cover is lifted, the mechanism opens 90° and locks itself. The moment of fixation is difficult to describe on paper. So let's look at the photo.

To lower the lid you need to pull it up or pull the lever.

DIY wooden kitchen table

At this time, the bracket will lower and the furniture can be folded.

The cheapest brackets can stick. The lid will fold back and not fold. In this case, you have to crawl under the table to unlock the mechanism.

Mechanism on gas-filled shock absorbers

IN Lately a new mechanism has appeared for creating folding tables.

Our craftsmen adapted gas cylinders from the rear door of a Niva car as a support for folding tables.

It looks something like this: the tabletop hangs on hinges near the wall. A gas-filled cylinder is hidden under it. This entire structure is held vertically either by a strap or some kind of latch.

To bring the furniture into working position, you simply open the latch. At this moment, the gas in the cylinder pushes the piston, and with it the hinged lid, upward.

This design is new and has such advantages as: compactness (the cylinder has a diameter of only 18 mm), opening speed of only 3 seconds, simplicity of design.

Strengthening loose carpentry joints can be as simple as reapplying glue to loose joints or as complex and time-consuming as making duplicates of broken pieces on a lathe.

Choosing wood glue and its use

An effective adhesive joint consists of five layers: a thin film of adhesive, two areas (one on each side) soaked in adhesive, and adjacent wood that the adhesive does not penetrate. The weakest of them determines the strength of adhesion. IN early times the weakest layer was the glue itself, but modern glues are so strong that they can destroy wood.

To make a well-bonded joint, the two mating surfaces must be cleaned of old adhesive, dirt, and finish. If the wood is smooth, it needs to be roughened by treating it with a knife. If the wood becomes wet during the process of removing the old glue, it must be dried. Shape the connection so that it fits firmly and has no gaps.

Also, squeeze the joint so that the adhesive goes into the wood grain. Usually the joint is dried and joined before assembly to ensure that the surfaces of the wood fit together and have sufficient adhesion. After this, disconnect the connection and apply a thin layer of glue to both adjacent surfaces. Apply a thicker layer of adhesive to the end structure than to the side structure, which has less absorbent properties. Reassemble the joint, squeeze it and wipe it clean - first with a damp cloth, then with a dry cloth. Immediately check that the joint surfaces are correctly positioned.

The choice of glue depends on the type of furniture and where it is applied. Professionals sometimes disagree on which adhesives are the best for furniture carpentry. The most popular types of glue are described below.

The main types of glue used in furniture repair

Polyvinyl acetate (PVA). Good glue general purpose for basic types of room furniture. Used ready-made; sets 30 minutes after compression; however, it takes two days to reach full adhesion strength. This glue is applied to both surfaces to be glued. PVA does not resist moisture well, so it should not be used for gluing outdoor furniture.

Aliphatic resin. This glue is an improved version of PVA. It is stronger, more moisture resistant, more viscous and less fluid. However, it dries faster than PVA and therefore requires faster compression. The clamps can be removed after 30 minutes, but the joint must remain stationary until the adhesive has reached its full bond strength (usually within 18 hours). Yellow glue is used to fill gaps and hold together poorly fitting joints.

Animal glue. It is obtained from animal skin, nerve tissue or bones. From Egyptian times until 1900, it was the only glue used for furniture. As antique restorers claim, this glue is reversible: steam and sunlight destroy its sticky properties, causing the compound to separate. Plus, there's plenty of time - almost 20 minutes - to squeeze the glue until it starts to set. However, it can only be applied at temperatures around 20°C; it hardens at temperatures below 10°C and thins at temperatures above 33°C. Joints assembled using animal glue should remain compressed for 6-12 hours. It should not be used in the repair of outdoor furniture.

Plastic resin glue (urea formaldehyde ). A very strong adhesive used in joints subject to unusual influences. It is produced in the form of a powder that must be diluted with water; however, once it dries, the glue is extremely moisture resistant. It must be applied at temperatures above 20°C. It begins to set within 5-15 minutes and, once compressed, should remain under constant pressure for 5-12 hours (depending on ambient temperature).

Resorcinol glue . It is sold in a ready-made (mixed) form, but you can prepare it yourself by mixing the powder with a liquid catalyst. This is a very strong glue, it has high heat and moisture resistance: it is even used in the construction of boats. This is the most best glue for exterior repairs wooden furniture. It must be applied when room temperatures and leave in a compressed position for 10 to 12 hours.

Available a large number of other synthetic adhesives used in woodworking. New types of adhesives are constantly emerging, but furniture repair professionals most often use the above adhesives. Known epoxy adhesives(there are various types, including those that harden very quickly), they work on chemical principles, forming a strong bond between pieces of wood, as well as between non-porous materials such as metal or glass. Epoxy glue has high adhesive strength, but is expensive. When repairing furniture, some less expensive adhesives are used that have similar properties. Contact adhesives set most quickly. Their disadvantage is that they do not allow time for corrections after they are applied to the joints.

EXAMPLE: Repairing a loose table

Of particular concern are the joints at the top of the legs. Under great pressure, they can weaken and even fall off. Problems that often arise include drop boards that sag and retractable extensions that jam or break. Many problems can be easily fixed.

Most tables intended for private use consist of a tabletop attached to a frame, which consists of a rectangular base of narrow horizontal frames tightly connected to the tops of the legs. In some cases, the frame is connected to the top and the legs are bolted to the frame. In simpler tables, the legs are attached directly to the underside of the top. These connections are held together different ways: glue, which may lose its strength; spikes and dowels that can break; plates, screws or bolts that may become loose. Adhesive bonds that have lost their adhesion can be easily restored by applying a new layer of glue. However, in order to repair the larger gaps between components, it may be necessary to disconnect connections and then replace broken parts. To complete the repair and make it better, you can strengthen the connection with metal corner plates or wooden blocking.

Repairs to tables with moving parts require different measures. A damaged sliding table mechanism can be fixed by cleaning and lubricating its sliding parts; if they are broken, bent or lost, they will need to be replaced. The easiest way to repair a sagging board is to wedge it and glue the wedge to the underside.

It's good to have a glue injector. With its help you can introduce glue into hidden places. Clamps are also an important tool. To close the cracks you will need G-shaped clamps (clamps), and to maintain equal pressure on the glued joints - “frame-leg” - girdle clamps. When using clamps, place thin pieces of cork or soft wood under their grips to avoid damage to the surface of the clamped element. To close the glued sections, apply the minimum necessary force, since excessive pressure can cause all the glue to squeeze out, leaving the joint weak and dry.

If you need to strengthen a part with a keyed butt joint, you will need a keyed jig (to guide the drill) and metal keyed centers. These tools ensure precise placement and alignment of key holes. Dowels with special grooves are also useful, which make the adhesive bonds stronger.

How to get to the damaged area

Detaching the table top . To access the damaged joint, turn the table over and place it on a layer of folded cloth or a mat. Remove the tabletop. If it is attached by metal compression plates inserted into a groove in the frame trim, remove the screws and plates and detach the tabletop. If it is attached with screws or bolts to the frame or corner blocks, remove these fasteners. If the repair requires disassembling the connections, you can use the following methods.

Make marks on each part of the table for its subsequent assembly. Break the adhesive bond that holds the pieces together. To protect the impact area, use a wooden or cork block; raise this area a little.

Separate the table parts by first separating the leg assembly from the table top using a lever system to do this. To do this, cut two wooden bars with a total length slightly greater than the distance between the divided parts. Hew one end of each block into a cup shape. Trim the other ends into a V and an inverted V shape to connect these bars. Position the lever so that its outer ends are as close as possible to the connections that need to be opened; place cork spacers between these ends and the table. Press down with your hand, straightening the joint in the middle of the lever. To apply force to short joints of separable parts, make another two-piece lever or use a reaction clamp.

Analysis of frame-leg connections

Three types of connections. The most common connection is the socket-tenon connection, in which the tenon on the frame is glued into the socket on the leg. Possible damage with such a connection is splitting of the socket or splitting of the tenon.

The typical type is a butt joint, which is usually reinforced with dowels glued into the corresponding holes on each of the two elements. If the keys are broken, drill them out and replace them or make a new joint. Butt joints with (or without) dowels are sometimes further strengthened with a corner plate or blocking.

If the legs are attached to the frame with bevel joints, the frame is coated with glue and screwed to the outside of each leg. The screw heads are installed below the surface of the frame in reverse-drilled holes filled with plastic bushings. If the screws fall out of the leg, pull or drill out the bushings from the frame, remove the screws, re-tape the joint and use new screws of the same length but one order of magnitude larger in diameter. You may need to enlarge the tops of the back-drilled holes for the screw heads, but do not re-drill the bottoms that match the screw threads.

How to close a crack at the top of a table leg

Gluing a cracked socket . If the crack has formed around the socket at the top of the stem, squirt glue into the crack as well as into the hair hole between the socket and the tenon. Press the connection together with two clamps. First install the G-clamp on top part legs to close the crack; then place the tubular or girdle clamp, extending it from outside one leg to the outside of the other to hold the thorn in the socket. Let the glue dry overnight; then remove the clamps.

Repair for a broken tenon

1. Preparation for fastening with dowels. If the tenon is badly cracked or broken, convert the joint to a butt joint with dowels; cut the tenon first and fill the socket. Cut the tenon flush with the piece using a fine-toothed saw; even better with a tenon saw. Clean the nest from glue and pieces of broken tenon with a chisel; mark and cut a wooden sleeve the same size as the nest. Cover this sleeve with glue and drive it into the socket. When the glue has dried, saw off and plan any pieces of wood protruding from the nest.

2. Drilling and aligning key holes. Draw two lines with a pencil through the end of the horizontal strap approximately one-third of the distance from the top and lower parts. Place a keyed clamp in line and drill a hole 8mm in diameter and 30mm deep in the trim. Repeat these steps on the other line.

Repair for a broken tenon. Preparing for doweling	Repair for a broken tenon. Drilling and Aligning Keyholes

Paste into drilled holes key centers, carefully align the trim on the top of the leg, tap the other end of the strap with a rubber mallet, applying enough force to drive the tips of the key centers into the leg and leave marks. Use these marks to install clamping device and drill two holes in the leg with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the end of the horizontal strap and to the two 8mm dowels, each 55mm long. Drive the dowels into the holes on the frame with a rubber hammer, insert them into the holes on the leg and nail the frame to the installation site. While the glue dries, press the joint together with a banding clamp.

Corner fastening

Place the metal corner plate (pictured below left) against the leg and, holding it in place against the frame, attach one screw on each side. Drill a pilot hole in the leg through the center hole in the plate. Remove the screws holding the record in place and the record itself. Screw the bolt into the leg by grasping the center of the bolt with pliers and turning it until all the threads on the end of the bolt are seated in the leg. Place the plate back in place, inserting all the end screws to secure the plate to the frame. Install the lock washer and wing nut on the screw bolt and tighten it.

To attach a wood corner brace (pictured below right), cut a triangular piece of hardwood (so that the structure runs from frame to frame) and cut it to meet the leg. Attach the block to the frame with two N 8 screws, screwed through the block into the leg perpendicular to the frame - one screw on each side of the leg.

Leveling the folding board, gluing up the extendable table

Tailboard jamming . To level an overhanging folding board, mark the farthest point where the support sled or table leg touches the underside of the board; scrape off the old glue and trim and attach a tapered wedge to the board. Cut a wedge out of a piece of hardwood, apply glue to the top side of it, and push it between the sled and the board, adjusting it until the board is level. Place a weight on the top of the board while the glue dries.

Restoring an extendable table . To remove an extendable table with jammed wood frames, open it until it is fully stretched and use a chisel to scrape away any dirt or caked-on grease deposits from the inside strapping. Apply fresh lubricant to all accessible moving parts using a silicone spray and wax.

If the extension table has metal trim, clean the extensions with a sharpened dowel or stick. Then sprinkle them with powdered graphite. If the wood sash pin on the edge of the sliding board is broken, drill out the broken piece and replace it with a hardwood dowel. Glue one end of the dowel into the cleaned hole and sharpen the other end to fit freely into the sash hole, sanding it down to round the ends and reduce the size.

A table is a necessary attribute of kitchen furniture. Today, manufacturers use a lot of materials to produce tables. There is a great variety of table leg shapes; there are more than twenty of them. The traditional version has four legs. In most cases, standard models have a square or rectangular tabletop shape.

Wood dinner table rectangular with four legs

A table with three legs is usually round. It can be used as a small coffee table or as a dining area.

Round kitchen table made of wood with three legs

They also produce tables with two legs, they can be various types, but the most common models are those with two X-shaped legs or durable ones made of solid wood.

Wooden table with X-shaped legs complete with chairs for a summer cottage

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the tabletop is, in turn, attached to them

Many craftsmen know that improperly secured legs are the root cause of the table swaying and tilting. There are adjustable supports that can correct large percentage tilt, but still high-quality assembly is of paramount importance.

There are several options for attaching legs to tabletops:

Attaching the leg with surface plates

Attaching the Legs with T-Nuts

An option for attaching the table top to the table frames without using additional fittings using screws

Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to secure a tabletop.

Using homemade wooden clamps is a simple and reliable way to attach a tabletop to a tabletop without purchased fittings

Steel figure-eight fasteners - an option using inexpensive fittings

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side frames of the headset.

Necessary materials

The materials that are used to make tables are very different; we will tell you about some of them.

1. Arrays are suitable for this different breeds wood, for example, conifers, oak, etc. If you are a beginner, it is better to use pine, as it is easy to process. It should be remembered that such furniture fades, absorbs odors and liquids, and does not tolerate temperature changes well. On the plus side, the material is environmentally friendly, durable, and looks elegant.

   

   Solid pine for making a table with your own hands

2. Chipboard is a fairly popular material for furniture production. Dry wood chips and resins are used in production. Among the disadvantages, environmental risks can be noted. The advantage is a relatively cheap price.

   

   Chipboard – inexpensive option material for making a dining table

3. MDF is more environmentally friendly compared to chipboard, but also more expensive. In production they use wood shavings, carbide resins, modified melamine. Disadvantage - it ignites freely, there is a possible risk of fire even from rapidly heating objects.

   

   MDF is suitable for making a table, it is of higher quality and environmentally friendly

4. Furniture board is the exact opposite of MDF and chipboard. Acceptable price equivalent, the material is durable and environmentally friendly. They are made from glued bars, tightened with a press.

   

   Furniture board - square or rectangular sheets of wood, which are made by gluing together wooden blocks along the width or length

5. Metal – in most cases, stainless steel is used. Such a thing will be expensive, but such a table will attract attention.

   

   Products from of stainless steel low maintenance, durable, practical, universal in use

These materials are suitable for both the tabletop and legs. They also make plastic, chrome-plated, and forged legs. When choosing, rely on your preferences.

Chromed furniture support for tables with side fastening

Coffee table with forged legs

White round plastic outdoor table

Required Tools

The necessary set of tools for making and assembling a table

For manufacturing, the following tools are needed: plane, grinding machine, jigsaw, saw, drill, drill bits, sandpaper, screwdriver, screws, glue, dowels, clamps, tape measure, pencil, protective equipment - glasses, gloves.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Drawing wooden table with four legs

First, you must make a drawing. Decide which legs you will attach - purchased ones or make them yourself. The form can be any.

Curly balusters or legs for a homemade table

If the tabletop is 0.8 m wide, then the legs should be 1.2 m long. To ensure the tabletop is smooth, treat it grinder. There should be no gaps between the joints. To prevent the tabletop from becoming deformed high humidity, the boards must be laid with a counter texture.

Tabletop boards at least 30cm thick

At the ends of the boards to be joined, you need to drill holes 8 cm deep, keeping the gap between them at 10-15 cm. We go through the prepared areas with sandpaper and lubricate the edges, dowels and holes with glue. We insert the dowels into the holes, thus connecting the tabletop. Remove excess glue.

Option for attaching legs to a wooden table

Using glue and screws, we connect the transverse and longitudinal boards to the legs. On top of the latter we make two recesses to attach the tabletop. We wait twelve hours and install it. We cover the structure with varnish, stain or paint.

Table with fixed top, frame and legs

Important! When using stain, consider the following: choose the thinner wisely, the surface before coating must be carefully sanded, the main thing is to properly adjust the gun (the shape of the torch should be oval, and the layer you apply should cover the existing one by half).

Cover with varnish or wax to protect the top layer

Having familiarized yourself with the options for attaching legs to the tabletop, it will not be difficult for you to make a table with your own hands, thereby updating the interior with such an original thing.

Video: Solid wood table top. My mounting option