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Mulch and mulching. How to mulch in the fall - options for every taste Mulching with wood chips

Mulch and mulching. How to mulch in the fall - options for every taste Mulching with wood chips

If you have already done mulching in this way, then the recommendation is simple: rake the mulch with your hands, cutting off small roots (stem tissue) that may form in such a mound. By the way, it is because of them that the tree dries out faster.

Ideally, the mulch circle should look like a donut with a hole inside. You should retreat 12-15 cm from the trunk and lay mulch 10-12 cm thick around the tree. The thickness of the layer of dry grass may be less, since it is more difficult for air to pass through.

The diameter of the mulch circle should be approximately equal to the span of the tree crown; it is precisely in this area that it is located underground root system. If you don't have the opportunity to mulch the required area, then mulching is possible on a smaller area, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter of the circle. But you need to know that the root system of a tree is 2 or even 3 times larger than the crown. Therefore, the larger the area you cover with organic mulch, the more nutrition the roots will receive.

Lastly, it is better to use organic mulch, which promotes soil and tree health, than inorganic mulch.

Author of the article: Love

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Today we will talk about different types mulch. How to properly mulch with grass, straw, fallen leaves? How to make mulch with your own hands? What's best for mulching strawberries?

Mulch, in our understanding, is primarily to save the soil from drying out. This is true, and three times true for the hot steppes. I used to write this: in the south it is impossible to live without mulch, without it the soil dries out! In fact, it is impossible without it both in the rainiest Non-Black Earth Region and in cold Siberia.

It is this that protects the soil from erosion by rainfall. It is the organic matter of mulch that is the main source carbon dioxide for photosynthesis and food for soil animals. It is mulch that protects the soil from temperature fluctuations. During the day it reflects the excess heat of the sun, and at night it stores the heat of the root layer. Only under the mulch does dew settle and come into use, prolonging the effect of rain.

But first, I’ll touch a little on “non-organic” mulch.

We use black film mulch only for strawberries - we apply it once every three years, spreading organic matter under it. Without a good dose of organic matter, there is no point in laying down film: the soil will not improve.

The advantages of film mulch: moisture is retained much longer, there are almost no weeds. Disadvantages: it is not nutritious, not mobile, does not allow replanting or compaction of plantings. It is generally not applicable for densely planted greens and root vegetables.

In summer black film warms up. In the damp north, in Siberia, this is only beneficial. In our country, the film also has to be covered with straw: already in June it “heats up” to 70°C. And to be honest, I’m very reluctant to pull plastic out of the garden almost every year. But it depends on who.

Of course, in Europe, and especially in Israel, mulch film is the basis of high-tech production. But the mulch films there are perfected: the required width, with holes, reflective and long-lived. And even with a yellow underside - it turns out that weed seedlings die better this way. And now they are already biodegradable. Below them is a dose of organic matter and irrigation tapes that periodically supply water and nutrient solutions. For the desert - it’s smart, and there is no other choice. For poor sandy loams and sands, this is also a radical solution, if you have the money.

Mine the main objective- natural soil fertility. Therefore, my constant mulch is plant remains: straw, grass from mowers, leaves and shredded branches. It is placed after the beds have warmed up, when the seedlings of tomatoes and cucumbers have taken root and grown, and under it fall the succulent weeds pulled out during planting, the remains of greens and radishes, and fresh grass - a gift to the worms.

Here, for example, a young currant bush is cut to increase growth. 4–5 kg of fresh grass lay under it. It will be eaten by worms before August. Imagine the work they will do!

Straw we take the baled one. It controls weeds better than others. It is light, reflects light and does not heat up - this is an important plus for the south. Easy to lay in layers. Decomposes slowly over the course of a year.

If you want to speed up the decomposition, sprinkle a solution of sugar and urea, one glass per bucket of water. This is "fuel" for microbes that decompose cellulose.

Traditionally, strawberries are mulched with straw, in English - strawberry, “straw berry”. All my beds usually go into the winter under mulch, covered with a thick blanket. Having removed the mulch in the spring, I can sow and plant by hand - the soil is perfectly prepared.

It is especially useful to cover trampled autumn green manure with straw. By spring there is little left of it. All passages and paths in the garden are necessarily and constantly covered with straw - here the roots also feed and find moisture.

I can't help but mention: potatoes under straw. This method is successfully used by many. After warming up a little and loosening the bed with a pitchfork, we scatter humus, compost, and any nutritious organic matter on it. We place straw on top in a loose layer of 10–15 cm. We make passes in the straw with our hands and press pieces of seed tubers with sprouts into the soil. We leave holes so that the sprouts can quickly get out.

Once we got out, we rake the bushes so that no light gets through to the soil. This is all. There is no need to hill up, weeding is almost the same. It is necessary to water well twice: at the time of budding and at the end of flowering. The harvest is harvested at the beginning of the yellowing of the tops. There is no need to dig: the tubers lie right under the straw, clean.

Grass from lawnmower hopper- perhaps the most ideal mulch for garden beds. It is nutritious, contains a lot of nitrogen and attracts crowds of worms. It quickly cakes into a dense layer and holds out weeds perfectly. It's always damp underneath. Open from April until the end of the season. Replenishes as mowing occurs. During the winter it disintegrates completely. Completely free.

Dry leaves- the same as straw, but more nutritious and compacts more densely - a real blanket. Knowledgeable people They store leaves by the cubic meter. Any kind is suitable, except oak and walnut - it’s better to lie aside for a year: they are too rich in aggressive tannins. Under the foliage, the beds overwinter well.

All this organic matter gradually decomposes, is eaten and dragged into the soil, where it feeds both microbes and plants, and eventually becomes humified.


Shredded branches- supermulch. For several years I have been happily preparing it using an MTD rotary chopper, but I learned and appreciated it only after becoming acquainted with the developments of Canadians.

It turns out that deciduous branches thinner than 5 cm are simply a warehouse of sugars, pectin, amino acids and vitamins. Wood fiber is a bonus and material for creating especially durable, high-quality humus. In fact, forest soils are very fertile. Now it's clear why.

I mainly chop fruit branches, and no thicker than a finger. They are especially high in sugars and proteins. The layer is also compacted, holds moisture well and cuts off weeds. At the same time, the rug of small chips is very pleasing to the eye.

Leafy branches from summer trimmings are especially good. A real food warehouse! Before chopping, the leaves need to be dried, otherwise the chopper periodically slips, becoming clogged with juicy mass. A pile of chopped branches with leaves begins to burn inside already on the second or third day. Branches grow twice a year, and also completely free.

Which shredder is best for branches? Better is the one that comes with spare knives! Take two spare sets at once. And advice: never chop dry tree branches. The machine is not designed for them! The knives will immediately become dull. Dry branches are only for the fire. The exception is dry shoots of blackberries, maiden grapes and honeysuckle, thin branches of willow, stems of weigela, buddleia, corn and other “hollows”.

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IN organic farming Mulching is a very important technique. It allows you to preserve the fertility of the topmost and most important layer of soil for feeding the roots.

Some very diligent gardeners, after harvesting, remove weeds, dig up the soil, level the surface and leave it like that for the winter, admiring the neat appearance of the garden. It is believed that the soil is resting. However, the uncovered soil does not rest, but is destroyed.

The soil must be treated as a living being. What makes it alive is the mass of soil organisms inhabiting it - bacteria and small soil animals that create the basis soil fertility. When upper layer The soil dries out and freezes, the inhabitants of the soil capable of movement go into the depths, the rest die or go into a state of rest. In the spring, when it’s time for sowing, the lifeless soil hardly supplies the short roots of the seedlings with food.

Therefore, the main function of winter mulch is protect the top layer of soil from drying out and freezing. For winter mulching, so-called coarse mulch is used. These are straw, hay, sawdust, fallen leaves, peat (not sour), post-harvest residues. The thickness of the mulch layer is 6-8 cm. After harvesting, perennial weeds are removed, the soil is loosened, compost is added and covered with mulch.

Fresh sawdust contains a lot of tannins that inhibit plant growth. That's why For winter mulching, only rotted sawdust is used. Most best material- straw and hay. They create a loose heat-protective layer and can be left on the beds throughout the summer season.

The remaining materials are poorly permeable to air, and should be removed in the spring immediately after the cessation of frost, so that they do not interfere with the warming of the soil. Coarse, semi-rotted compost can be used as mulch. They cover the soil immediately before the onset of frost, and in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, they cover it to a depth of 10-15 cm.

All of the listed materials belong to the so-called organic mulch. In some cases, inorganic mulch is recommended - gravel, expanded clay, film. In our opinion, inorganic mulch is not suitable for winter mulching. When choosing a material, you should also keep in mind that winter mulch has completely different requirements than summer mulch.

Summer, in addition to protecting the soil surface, performs such important functions as fertilization, weed suppression, moisture conservation, etc. These requirements are well met by mown grass, weeded weeds, and black film. None of this is required from winter mulch, which is why other materials are used here.

If after harvesting early crops there is a lot of time left before the onset of frost - 1.5-2 months, the bed can be covered with living mulch - green fertilizer. Some fast-growing plant species are suitable for this, such as faba beans, mustard, oats, and wheat. In the fall, they are not removed, but left in the garden bed so that they cover the surface of the soil with their dead greenery. And in the spring it is sealed to a depth of 10-15 cm.

In addition to protecting the soil, winter mulch performs another function - protection against freezing of roots and organs perennial plants . Planting bulbs, perennial onions, and ornamental onions require mandatory mulching. The same can be said about other perennial ornamental plants.

Roots fruit trees and berry bushes may suffer from frost in winter, especially in cold, snowless winters. That's why tree trunk circles It is advisable to cover with mulch for the winter, retreating half a meter from the trunk to the perimeter of the crown. For this you can use all types of mulch, including fallen leaves. However, to mulch an apple tree, it is better to use foliage of other tree species, since the leaves of the apple tree retain its characteristic pests and diseases.

Under the fruit trees and berry bushes mulch can be covered for the winter old film. Some pests overwinter in the soil (flower beetle, currant moth), and early in the spring they awaken, emerge from the soil and move onto plants. The film will make it difficult for them to move and reduce damage.

In order for trees to grow quickly, be strong and tall, they need care. This applies to both decorative and fruit species. If earlier the trunk circles around trees were left in the form of open areas of soil, which were dug up and fertilized in the fall and spring or covered with mulch, then in our time an increasing number of summer residents plant flowers, herbs and vegetables on them or sow lawns.

This not only decorates the garden and benefits the trees themselves, but also allows you to save area in favor of other types of plants.

To dig or not to dig?

For many gardeners, the pressing question is how to properly care for fruit trees and when to dig up the ground around them, whether to do it at all, or whether it is better to sow this area with grass. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages of digging are the following:

  • There will be fewer pests or they will disappear altogether.
  • Since the tree trunk circle of fruit trees expands as they grow, this makes it possible to use this land profitably, for example, to plant a flower garden.

Since there are more disadvantages to digging up soil around trees, many summer residents have abandoned this practice. This is due to the fact that:

  • When digging up the soil in the fall, not only pests are destroyed, but also beneficial microorganisms. For example, aerobic bacteria living on the surface require oxygen. When digging, the top layer of soil turns over and they end up underground. Deprived of oxygen, they die, and since exactly aerobic bacteria supply plants with basic nutrients, then the trees are thereby deprived of elements important for life.
  • When digging there is always a risk of damaging the roots. This is especially true for those that are closer to the surface and receive the necessary nutrition from it.
  • Autumn digging reduces the frost resistance of trees, as the soil becomes open to the cold.

Each summer resident decides for himself how to care for his garden, but more and more people are inclined to believe that the soil around the trees is an area that can be used wisely and beneficially both for the plant and for themselves.

Flower beds and beds around trees

In light of the above, gardeners prefer to use tree trunk circles and sow them with either forbs, flowers, or healthy vegetables and spices. This has its advantages:

  • Gradually, the untouched soil is enriched by the plants growing on it, which, having outlived their useful life, become natural nutrition for the tree.
  • It is especially useful to sow tree trunk circles for additional insulation root system. The roots of the “neighbors” create a kind of cushion that prevents frost from penetrating into the soil.
  • In summer, the lawn or flower garden protects the roots from the sun, and the tree needs less watering.
  • Tree trunk circles filled with vegetation do not require digging or special weeding, which not only frees you from unnecessary work, but also helps preserve the fertile layer of the soil.

Considering all the advantages, more and more gardeners are using the soil around trees to plant beautiful or useful plants.

It is important to know: plants do not always combine with each other. Before planting something, you need to make sure that the “neighborhood” will be mutually beneficial. This is especially important for fruit trees, since their harvest can be significantly reduced by satellites that will have a depressing effect on them.

Types of tree trunk circles and care for them

The design and care of the soil around the tree begins with its planting. So, when he is 2-3 years old, he is 2 m, by the age of six he reaches 3 m, and by 10-12 - 3.5-4 m. Along with the growth of the crown, its trunk circle grows, the design of which as the tree matures can change.

Soil care depends on how the soil around the seedling looks:

  • If the soil remains fallow, then it needs regular weeding and light loosening after each rain or watering. In the presence of heavy soil, autumn digging should be carried out annually, while on loams this can be done once every 2-3 years.
  • Although mulching is the best way preserving moisture, improving soil quality and protecting from cold, is nevertheless considered by many gardeners to be a waste of land space. Mulching methods are described below.

  • Decorated tree trunk circles are becoming increasingly popular, as they simplify their care and allow you to create beautiful flower beds, lawns or mini-gardens.

It is important to know: if you plant plants around a tree, you should take into account that its trunk should already be quite high (from 75 cm), and the branches should be raised above the ground.

Materials for decorating tree trunk circles

Long gone are the days when the design of the tree trunk circle consisted only of mulching or “bare” soil. Today landscape designers use natural and artificial materials, flower and herb seeds.

Summer residents are not far behind them and are improving their gardens:

  • decorative stone;
  • crushed stone and pebbles;
  • glass;
  • fabrics made of synthetic fiber, for example, agril;
  • lawns;
  • beds with spices;
  • medicinal herbs.

It's important to know: the soil around trees is a usable area when used properly. What is permissible on large landscaped lawns does not make sense on a plot of 6 acres, where every meter of land counts.

Stone decoration

The use of small pebbles or gravel to decorate tree trunks is especially popular among summer residents who cannot devote much time to their garden. These “helpers” are capable of:

  • retain moisture;
  • protect roots from hot sun rays and severe frosts;
  • prevent weeds from growing;
  • keep pests away.

This decor of the tree trunk circle frees the gardener from weeding, loosening and digging up the soil. Stones are a natural material that is durable, does not fly apart from gusts of wind and looks impressive.

Mulching

In regions where rain is rare and frost is not, summer residents use dry manure, straw, peat or leaves with reeds in the form of mulch. There are reasons for this:

  • this is a natural fertilizer that is dug up in the spring and gives the roots additional nutrition;
  • such mulch warms the soil;
  • retains moisture well.

It is important to know: such mulching should be done not only 10-15 cm from the trunk, as many gardeners do, but throughout the entire circle around the trunk.

However, in warmer regions, an increasing number of summer residents prefer not only to mulch the circle of fruit trees, but also to decorate it. Perfect for this Pine cones, For example. They look beautiful, hold heat well, transmit and retain moisture, are not blown away by the wind and do not give weeds a chance to grow through such a barrier.

In any case, what is the choice? natural material used for mulching is left to the summer resident, based on weather conditions and the needs of the tree itself.

Lawn around trees

A beautiful, well-groomed lawn always looks impressive. It is no exception when it covers the trunk circle of an apple tree, for example, or other fruit trees. Owners of large plots can afford this luxury. As the grass grows, it is cut with a lawn mower and removed. As practice has shown, a lawn in tree trunk circles is beautiful decoration, which provides the tree with additional care:

  • protects from the sun;
  • protects from cold;
  • retains moisture well;
  • The roots of the grass themselves loosen the soil, and it breathes.

It is important to know: the lawn requires constant maintenance, otherwise the garden will look overgrown and abandoned. Trees also need regular spring feeding, which is best applied directly under the roots.

Seedling of tree trunk circles with forbs

The lawn is not suitable for the owners of the coveted six acres, so the best solution is to create cultural sod, for which grass seeds are used. It is better to sow perennial grasses, for example, a cereal mixture of meadow fescue (up to 60%) and meadow bluegrass (40%).

As the grass grows, it needs to be mowed and stored under the trees, as this is the best natural fertilizer that frees the gardener from additional organic fertilizers. Such turf serves as a natural “carpet” that protects tree roots from the scorching sun, severe frosts and drought.

Flower garden

Before you start creating a flower garden, spice bed or medicinal herbs, you should find out which plants in the trunk circles will bring the tree maximum benefit. For example, the following flowers are combined with an apple tree:

  • daisies;
  • daffodils;
  • lungwort;
  • pansies;
  • forget-me-nots;
  • bells;
  • nasturtium;
  • periwinkle.

They will not only decorate the tree trunk, but will also have a beneficial effect on the yield of the tree. Among spices and vegetable crops, the apple tree gets along well with:

  • dill;
  • radishes;
  • feather bow;
  • salad;
  • sorrel;
  • basil

Today, cultivating tree trunks is a widespread practice, and not a tribute to fashion. When the land can not only be used wisely, beautified and decorated, but also without special effort improving its composition is a chance to make your site ideal.

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