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Cable laying in floor slabs. How to lay wiring under the ceiling

Cable laying in floor slabs. How to lay wiring under the ceiling

Modern renovation We can no longer get by with just one chandelier hanging in the center of the room; we often highlight individual zones with our own points of light or attach them to the ceiling optional equipment, such as smoke or motion detectors.

Sometimes it happens that you need to solve a problem that can baffle an inexperienced technician, namely, laying wiring in the ceiling, without using suspended or suspended ceilings.

So we’ll try to fully cover the topic of wiring in the ceiling by examining 5 ways to solve the problem.

Laying wiring in a plastic box

Probably the easiest way to solve the problem of wiring is the open wiring method. There is no need to talk about the aesthetics of this method of laying, but it is quick in terms of time.

Beauty: -

Simplicity: +

Laying wires on the floor of the upper floor

The wiring is laid in a protective corrugation along the floor of the upper floor in a groove or between the joists and through through holes in the floor slab they are lowered to the points of the lamps.

The method is convenient during overhaul your home, and for apartments in panel house doesn't quite fit.

Beauty: +

The work ahead will be dusty, but the result will be worth it. If you have to embed a spotlight, or rather not like this, if the thickness of the interfloor ceiling allows you to embed a spotlight, you can use special drill bits and cut niches for them.

Beauty: +

Simplicity: -

Wiring under the plaster in the ceiling

A flat wire PPV, VVP, PV1 is laid along the “dirty” ceiling; more details about the types of wire are in the article and plastered over the beacons. It is important that the wire fits tightly to the ceiling, then less plaster mortar will be needed.

The method is used in monolithic slabs ceilings without voids.

Beauty: +

Simplicity: +

Laying wires in the voids of floor slabs

In the floor slab there are void channels along them and wires are pulled. True, there are also disadvantages, such a channel must first be found, for this you can make a lot of holes in the reinforced concrete floor slab. Unlike the method of gating the interfloor ceiling, the strength of the latter does not decrease.

After the channels-voids in the ceiling have been found, you can stretch a wire through them using wire.

Don't forget about something new:
Federal Law of July 22, 2008 N 123-FZ
"Technical regulations on requirements fire safety"
Article 82. Fire safety requirements for electrical installations of buildings, structures and structures
1. Electrical installations of buildings, structures and structures must comply with the class of the fire and explosion hazardous zone in which they are installed, as well as the category and group of the combustible mixture.
2. Cables and wire systems fire protection, means of supporting the activities of fire departments, fire detection systems, warning and management of evacuation of people in case of fire, emergency lighting on evacuation routes, emergency ventilation and smoke protection, automatic fire extinguishing, internal fire-fighting water supply, elevators for transporting fire departments in buildings, structures and structures must remain operational in fire conditions for the time necessary for the complete evacuation of people to a safe area.
3. Cables from transformer substations backup sources power supplies to input distribution devices must be laid in separate fire-resistant channels or have fire protection.
4. Power supply lines to premises of buildings, structures and structures must have protective shutdown devices that prevent a fire from occurring in the event of a malfunction of electrical receivers. The installation rules and parameters of residual current devices must take into account the fire safety requirements established in accordance with this Federal Law.
5. Distribution boards must have a design that prevents the spread of combustion beyond the board from the low-current compartment to the power compartment and vice versa.
6. The distribution of cables and wires from floor distribution panels to premises must be carried out in channels made of non-combustible building structures or molded fittings that meet fire safety requirements.
7. Horizontal and vertical channels for laying electrical cables and wires in buildings, structures and structures must be protected from the spread of fire. In places where cable channels, ducts, cables and wires pass through building construction with a standardized fire resistance limit, cable penetrations with a fire resistance limit not lower than the fire resistance limit of these structures must be provided.
8. Cables laid openly must be flame retardant.
9. Emergency lighting fixtures on escape routes with autonomous power sources must be provided with devices to test their functionality when simulating a shutdown of the main power source. The operating life of the autonomous power source must provide emergency lighting on evacuation routes during the estimated time of evacuation of people to a safe area.
10. Electrical equipment without fire and explosion protection means is not allowed to be used in explosive, explosive and fire hazardous areas of buildings, structures and structures that do not have additional protective measures aimed at eliminating the danger of an ignition source in a flammable environment.
11. Fire-proof electrical equipment is not allowed to be used in explosive and fire-hazardous areas.
12. Explosion-proof electrical equipment may be used in fire-hazardous and non-fire-hazardous premises, and in explosive premises - provided that the category and group of the explosive mixture in the room corresponds to the type of explosion protection of the electrical equipment.
13. Rules for the use of electrical equipment depending on the degree of its explosion and fire resistance fire danger in buildings, structures and structures for various purposes, as well as fire hazard indicators of electrical equipment and methods for their determination are established by federal laws on technical regulations for this product and/or regulatory documents on fire safety.

Before you start finishing ceiling surface, it is necessary to connect electrical wires to switches and sources of artificial lighting. Hidden wiring on the ceiling will not only save money on the purchase of cables, but is also a more reliable option from a safety point of view.

Wiring on the ceiling - preparatory stage

Before you begin installing electrical wiring on the ceiling, you need to solve the following problems:

  • decide on optimal method gaskets;
  • count the number of components and purchase them;
  • think over the points where the distribution boxes will be located;
  • draw up a wiring diagram, with all wires positioned strictly at an angle of 90°. On the drawing, mark the locations of lamps and other lighting elements;
  • using a special table, select the brand and cross-section of the cable.

Wiring can be external or hidden.


To the main types external gasket wires include:

  • cable installation on fireproof surfaces without the use of protective pipes (open);
  • the cable is put into special corrugated sleeves;
  • metal corrugation is used;
  • use steel or electrical pipes;
  • installation is carried out in cable channels;
  • the wires are laid on special brackets and ceramic insulators.

Each type is selected depending on the type of ceiling base and decorative finishing.

Ceiling wiring: basic installation rules


If you do not have knowledge and experience in the field of electrical wiring, do not take risks, but entrust the work to specialists. If you are confident in your abilities and decide to cope with the task yourself, pay attention to the following recommendations; they will help you avoid mistakes when wiring:

  • All electrical wiring must be placed in protective corrugations. If this requirement is not observed, a fire may occur if a short circuit suddenly occurs;
  • do not connect all devices in the apartment to one residual current device. Even if the load does not exceed the design standards, it will still be inconvenient during further operation. If there is a short circuit in at least one consumer, all devices will turn off simultaneously;
  • switches must be connected to the phase wire. If you ignore this requirement, even a banal change of a light bulb may result in an electric shock;
  • the wires should not touch each other, nor cross each other;
  • before installation it is necessary to carry out right choice materials and wire sections. Choose not the section that is cheaper in cost, but the safest option;
  • for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms with high humidity special electrical boxes must be used;
  • Lay the wires in such a way that repairs to the electrical wiring can be carried out at any time.

Wiring along the ceiling - methods for different types of surfaces

When choosing materials for work and laying wiring, focus on the base surface of the ceiling, namely, the material that forms its basis:

  • tree;
  • metal;
  • reinforced concrete.

Wooden ceiling base


To secure the cable to wooden ceiling, you need to run the wires through steel pipes. Choose the diameter of the pipe so that the wiring fits into it.

Distribution boxes V in this case They must also be made from fire-resistant materials. The best option– metal boxes and pipes. WITH inside a layer of insulator is laid on them, which will prevent the wires from touching the walls of the box.

You need to proceed as follows:

  • transfer the drawing onto the surface from the paper drawing, carefully mark the cable installation lines;
  • install distribution boxes;
  • cut the pipes to the required length, fix them to the ceiling base;
  • connect individual parts of the pipes to each other by welding;
  • using a broach, lay the wires through the pipes;
  • take them out into the junction box, leaving the ends approximately 20 cm;
  • connect all the wires, wrap the joints with electrical tape and ground them;
  • Now you can check the functionality.


Metal is an electrical conductor, so for wiring to such a ceiling, it is necessary to lay the wires inside special plastic pipes. In this case, the boxes must also be made of plastic. If it is impossible to apply plastic products, then it is allowed to lay the cable in steel pipes or boxes.

Installation of wiring is carried out in the same way with laying the cable along a wooden ceiling.


Reinforced concrete slabs, which form the basis of the base surface of the ceiling, are produced with a ready-made gasket for boxes and pipes. In old houses, the cable is mounted on panels through the channels of the slab, which run along its surface and form voids in the slabs, and then the holes are plastered with a thick layer of putty. But in this case, due to gating, the channels are often clogged with concrete residues. If you have a similar situation, the wires need to be mounted directly to the surface of the floor slab. For insulation, it is best to hide the cable in a corrugated protective pipe made of non-flammable material.


Open laying of wires on a reinforced concrete ceiling is done one at a time using the following options:

  • cables are attached to the ceiling using brackets;
  • the wires are placed in a protective corrugated pipe, which is fixed to the ceiling with screws into plastic dowels;
  • the cable is inserted into metal or steel pipes, and attach them to the ceiling using clamps or brackets;
  • To protect the wiring, electrical pipes are used, which are mounted to the ceiling surface with clips.

During hidden installation The wire is laid through the voids along the slabs. Transverse installation of the cable is prohibited as it may damage the integrity of the ceiling.

The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

  • retreat from the wall by 50-70 mm, put the first mark;
  • make a recess 2 cm along the wall and 10 cm along the slab;
  • the same actions are carried out at the location of the chandelier or lamp;
  • the broach with the cable is inserted into the channel, the wires are brought out from the other end of the pipe;
  • after the cable is brought out, measure 40 cm, cut off the excess part;
  • The cable cores are connected in a junction box, the connection points are soldered and insulated;
  • check the quality and integrity of the wiring.

False ceilings

Cable laying under different types of false ceilings has its own characteristics.

On a note! If you have chosen closed method installation of electrical wiring under suspended ceilings, plasterboard structures or other hanging systems, all boxes must be secured so that they can be accessed at any time.


The main feature of gypsum plasterboard ceilings is the limited access to the base ceiling base. Therefore, before attaching the cable to the ceiling, it is necessary to provide service points for the entire system. Choose the installation method taking into account the type of base floor: metal, wood or reinforced concrete.

A suspended plasterboard ceiling reliably hides wires so wiring can be done open method. The main thing is to move all the boxes outside the structure.


This ceiling is a type of suspended structure, so the wiring will be installed in the same way as cable laying for gypsum plasterboards. In this case, distribution boxes are also taken outside the ceiling system.

Because the slatted ceilings often used to decorate bathrooms, the following conditions must be observed:

  • if the base base is made of reinforced concrete, the cable must be laid in plastic or corrugated pipes;
  • if the ceiling is mounted from wood, exclusively metal or steel boxes and pipes are used.


Cassette ceilings have an advantage that distinguishes them from other types decorative ceilings: You can get unhindered access to the rough ceiling surface at any time. Therefore, there is no need to move the boxes outside the structure, and the wiring can be completely hidden under the decorative trim.

If wiring along the ceiling is done in an open way, then the pipes are fixed to the base with clamps or brackets.

In cases where wiring is installed on the ceiling closed method, necessary:

  • use metal or corrugated pipes for metal or reinforced concrete bases;
  • steel pipes if the ceiling is made of wood.


Electrical wiring under suspended ceilings is carried out by analogy with suspension system from plasterboard. The main requirement for the arrangement is to ensure a sufficient distance between the pipe with the cable and the tension fabric. Otherwise, the corrugated surface will remain visible under the coating.

Before wiring is carried out under suspended ceiling, you need to carefully consider options for lighting the structure, and connect wires to the proposed locations of devices.


Such ceilings are represented by special modules filled with polyurethane foam. They contain plates that conduct electricity. In this case, up to five modules can be connected to one connector. The laying of wires is carried out, focusing on the material from which the main ceiling is made; the boxes must be taken out beyond the ceiling.

The panels look impressive in the dark, when the rest of the lighting in the room is turned off.

Thus, when choosing an option for wiring, you need to take into account the material from which the ceiling is made, the method of decorative finishing of the ceiling, and follow all the technology installation work from start to finish. Only in this case will the wiring be safe and durable.

Video - wiring on the ceiling

In houses with concrete slabs PC type ceilings (with air channels inside the pipe) it is possible to make hidden electrical wiring inside the stove.

Wires are laid there for chandeliers, lamps, and even lines for sockets if necessary.

Now I will show how we changed the wire going to the chandelier from the junction box.

Do not forget that all work must be carried out with the voltage turned off at the work site!

The most difficult thing was to find the entrance of the old electrical wiring into the channel of the stove coming from the junction box.

Along the floor slab, a purely visual line was drawn, passing through the hole in the center of the slab for the chandelier - to the wall with the junction box.

At this junction of the floor slab with the wall where the proposed line ended, the plaster was chiselled.

Having found the old wire in the wall, we carefully gouge out the hole for its entry into the floor slab.

Be careful - this is so as not to interrupt this wire, it will be useful to us later.

By gouging the hole, we free the wire from residues old plaster, mortar and, as far as possible, remove pebbles and other construction debris from the floor slab channel.

Lightly tugging on the old wire makes sure that it moves freely along the channel in both directions.

Only after this do we attach a new wire to it (naturally copper, with a cross-section of at least 1.5 sq. mm).

The main thing here is not to overdo it, the wire in the channel constantly clings to the walls and the remains of the solution, and if you pull without measure, you will simply break the wire and have to start all over again, and even look for steel wire to pass through the channel.

That's basically all this simple technology.

With new construction, construction is of course a little more difficult - you need to find a channel in the slab on both sides. Under the chandelier and the wire entry into the stove.

Here you can tap the slab with a crowbar or hammer to find the approximate location of the channel in the floor slab by sound.

Mostly found near the wall. You can drill a small hole with a hammer drill. If the drill goes deeper than 5-7 cm, it means that they didn’t hit the center of the channel, we drill another hole slightly retreating until we find the channel.

Then we crush the plate in this place, not very wide, so that a new wire can be inserted. And we hammer along the slab along the channel so that there is no sharp bend in the wire when entering the slab.

The smaller the bend, the easier the wire will be pulled through.

After this, we take a rigid steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm and insert it into the channel of the slab so that it hangs from both sides. Next, we attach the mounted wire to this steel and, pulling the wire, tighten the electrical wiring into place.

Then the place where the wire enters the slab (in the ceiling) is plastered.

Sometimes it happens that the channel in the floor slab becomes clogged with crushed stone or mortar and there is no way to get the wire through the channel.

Then you have to make several vertical holes in the floor slab along the channel where the wire enters.

We insert the wire as far as possible and measure how far it has entered the slab, then look at this distance on the slab and make a hole in this place to remove stones or remaining mortar.

If only you had heard what words electricians do not use in these cases to call builders who have clogged the channels with debris)))

In the same way, you can stretch not only the wire to the lamp, but also the main wires to the sockets, for example, from wall to wall.

There are situations where wires are run in the channel of the slab near the wall itself (along it). It all depends on the situation.

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