Plywood table. Mobile table made of plywood - how I made an original interior element in an hour

home

Installation

How to make a simple one desk laminated plywood

There are very few furniture projects on which you can “hone” your initial knowledge in carpentry and, at the same time as the learning process, have a reward ready product quite decent quality. Today we offer you exactly this type of “training” option - you will receive a decent desk as a reward. The table has only four parts; there are no pull-out bedside tables or cabinets. This is not a problem, don't be upset. Once you gain experience, you can always add to it everything necessary to improve comfort additional elements. Although we like it anyway, simplicity is the key to genius.

Preparation of materials and tools

Now it’s worth telling what you need to have to make our table. To your pleasant surprise - quite a bit. First, you will need a sheet of laminated plywood. You can work with ordinary plywood, but after completing the preparation work on the parts, you will have to varnish them in two or three layers. Not everyone likes this work, and not everyone can do it with the required level of quality. The thickness of the plywood is from 12 millimeters; to connect the parts together, use confirmats or minifixes. Working with minifixes is quite difficult; therefore, we do not insist on using these hardware even for fastening the tabletop.

We understand that such recommendations somewhat violate generally accepted rules. furniture industry, but all this is done for the sake of beginners. There is no point in risking their initial enthusiasm; let them gain “working experience” and begin to receive satisfaction from the results of their work, and only after that can you gradually complicate the technological operations.

You can cut the workpieces with a hand-held circular saw. When handled skillfully, this tool produces such an even cut that it is indistinguishable from a machine cut. You can also cut with an electric jigsaw, but it takes a long time and the quality is significantly worse. Use an electric jigsaw when cutting curved profiles, but our desk does not have such parts.

It is better to finish the edges with U-profile plastic tape. This tape is quite technologically advanced to use, but this is not its main advantage. The main advantage can be considered that, due to its features, the tape can hide quite large uneven edges, and beginners always “sin” with this. Especially when working with laminated plywood. Cutting it without chipping is not so easy; we’ll tell you how to do it below. But not only advice can always help; you also need good practice in performing such work.

Preparation of parts

You shouldn’t stop at transferring drawings from paper to plywood; we hope to spend a few parallel lines you can do it too. Just remember to make gaps on the cut map for the saw to pass through. But it’s worth looking at the process of cutting laminated plywood in more detail.

If possible, make several test cuts on the plywood. The fact is that each sheet of laminated plywood has its own characteristics depending on the manufacturer, production technology, thickness of the laminate layer, number and thickness of veneer sheets, wood type, etc. We cannot give universal recommendations without knowing all these characteristics, We give you only a general algorithm of actions that must be followed in all cases. A trial cut will give you the opportunity to choose the optimal cutting mode; you can select the cutting speed, type of saw, and blade angle. In addition, practically check how the laminate “behaves” during cutting.
The saw teeth should always hit the laminate from above, rather than undermining it from below. This mandatory condition, laminated plywood cannot be cut immediately; you need to make several passes, each time increasing the depth of cut. The number of passes must be at least three. Perfect option- a field of two passes on one side of the plywood, it needs to be turned over and continued cutting with reverse side. Thus, the likelihood of chipping is minimized.

There are times when, despite all attempts, the laminate continues to chip and the edge becomes very unsightly. appearance. This may be related to low quality laminate coating or with violations of the manufacturing technology of laminated plywood. The situation is quite unpleasant, but not tragic. You can solve the problem with a sharp shoe knife. Using it, cut through the laminate manually, the thickness of the cuts should be equal to the thickness of the laminate, this is ideal. If it is difficult for you to follow this recommendation, then make the cut depth to at least half the thickness of the sheet. We understand that the cutting time will increase significantly, but we cannot recommend any other way out of the difficult situation.

Preparing table elements for assembly

All visible cut edges must be sanded and covered with a decorative plastic edge of the U-profile. We have already told you about the advantages of such decoration. By price plastic tape somewhat more expensive than usual, but these are trifles compared to its advantages. Place the profile on liquid nails or special glue, immediately remove all excess, do not let it dry out. Those places that will be used to fasten individual parts into a single structure must be as level as possible, the cutting angle must be exactly 90°. In order for the assembly of parts to go “without a hitch”, you need to carefully mark seats hardware.

Table assembly

To begin, secure the legs to the sides. In the drawing you offer ordinary plastic stops, but you can choose your own wheels - very convenient option. You need to start assembling the table from the sides and spacers, this way you will have a stable frame for attaching the tabletop. Drill the holes carefully, keep in mind that it is impossible to correct the mistake made; you will have to change the mounting location. But this is not always possible and always undesirable. During assembly, constantly check the corners of the table, do not tighten the fasteners immediately, first “fasten” all the components.

4,300 rub.

540 rub.

1,000 rub.

RUB 1,950

430 rub.

RUB 1,500 RUB 1,900

1,200 rub.

850 rub.

450 rub.

550 rub.

RUB 2,000 RUB 2,200

It is furniture that makes living in a home comfortable and cozy. In this article, Dekorin will tell you how to make a table from plywood with your own hands. Of course, you can buy ready-made furniture in the store, but it is unlikely to perfectly match your wishes. You can make a table of the size you need with your own hands and be confident in the quality of the product. In addition, it is always pleasant to use furniture that is made by yourself.

What you need to know when working with plywood

No one will argue that a hand-made plywood table should not only be pleasing to the eye, but also be reliable and of high quality. To do this, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

It is important to cut the material correctly. Any cuts are best made using a professional tool - an electric jigsaw for wood. Moreover, you should choose a model with the smallest teeth so that the cutting quality is as good as possible.
No less important point- strong fastening. To do this, you need to purchase screws designed for wood. In order to prevent cracks in the material, you initially need to make holes a couple of millimeters smaller than the self-tapping screw.
Additional gluing. To make a plywood table more durable and reliable, its elements are glued together with special wood glue. Before gluing the parts, they need to be prepared (sand the surface and then get rid of dust).
The elements must be bent correctly. So, if the material needs to be bent, it should be moistened with plenty of water. After this, you need to bend it and leave it for 12 hours to consolidate the result.

By following the above tips, you can make a high-quality table from plywood (as in the following photos).

DIY plywood desktop

A work desk is needed in every home, but you don’t have to buy one, because everything can be done with your own hands. By the way, such a plywood table can also be used as a desk. The procedure is as follows:

First you need to make a drawing of the future table. The main dimensions must be marked on it. This way, you will know what to start from and will make furniture of the right size. Below you can see an example of such a drawing. Substitute your own dimensions or use ready-made ones.
Now you need to cut out all the elements (1 cover, 1 inner wall and 2 end walls), and this must be done carefully, and the ends must be processed immediately.
You need to drill two holes in each rack as shown in the diagram. It is important to use special furniture ties and a drill for them (as in next photo).
Next you need to place the tabletop and attach it using furniture corners. Please note that the screws you use should be a few millimeters smaller than the thickness of the plywood (so they will not be visible).
The final stage is inspecting the plywood desktop, sanding the ends and gluing tape that will cover the visible areas (it needs to be specially heated with an iron or hairdryer).

If you need to do computer desk from plywood with your own hands, then in this design It is worth including additional elements for the system unit, keyboard and printer. It is again very convenient to connect the elements using European screws and special furniture corners. Below you can see necessary drawings. Dekorin believes that this option is the most optimal if you need to make a computer desk from plywood.

DIY plywood dining table

Every home should have a table where the whole family gathers in the evenings and has dinner. And it will be wonderful if the head of the family makes a dining table from plywood with his own hands. Psychologists say that the most favorable communication is facilitated by the absence of angles. So why not do round table from plywood? In addition, by making furniture yourself, you can always choose the ideal size of furniture specifically for your kitchen.

During the work you will need following materials: screws for wood, electric jigsaw, a drill and a grinding attachment, a confirm drill, wood varnish, as well as plywood, from which we will actually make the table.

It is important to consider that without sufficient experience it will be problematic to cut out the tabletop and the disc connecting the legs to the table. Therefore, if you are a beginner, it is better to consult a specialist. Show him the drawing in the following photo: you will need two circles (128 cm and 104 cm).

Prepare all the parts that are in the photo for work. Use sanding to make the surface smooth.
Take an electric jigsaw and make grooves in the slats, as in the photo below.
Apply glue to the joints and insert the groove into the groove.
Assemble the slats and legs using euroscrews as shown in the drawing.
Now you need to connect the table legs to the binding ring using confirmats and glue.
The underframe is secured to the tabletop using 35-40 mm self-tapping screws.
We inspect the round plywood table and, if necessary, correct unevenness and other imperfections.
Finally, we coat the finished furniture with wood varnish.

The plywood kitchen table is ready!

DIY children's table made of plywood

Sooner or later, the child will need his own table for his first developmental activities, creativity and study. It’s good if you make it yourself, because you can make furniture that is suitable in size and height specifically for your child. The usual option - four legs and a table top - is quite suitable for a child's room.

For a children's table made of plywood you will need four bars (4x4 cm). They will act as legs. The tabletop can be made like this: cut two even boards of the required size, knock them down, and cover them with plywood on top.

To screw the legs to the frame, you need to do the following:

Mark where the frame will be. Draw a rectangle, all sides of which will be 5 cm larger than the frame.
Place the leg where it will later be attached and trace it. You need to do this with all the legs.
Make sure that the frame does not reach the edge by the width of the table leg plus the 5 cm that we retreated.
Now the frame bars need to be screwed to the tabletop.
Screw the legs to the frame itself.
Grind children's table from plywood until it becomes smooth and even.
Finish with wood varnish if desired.

If you want, decorate such a table at your discretion. The child will definitely appreciate it new furniture in your room.

DIY plywood coffee table

This option coffee table made from plywood is perhaps the simplest, and even a beginner in furniture making can handle it. So, first, cut out a sheet of plywood and four legs from the blocks (all measurements are on the diagrams). Make bevels on each leg at the very end using a miter saw. Next you need to make holes on all four details same as in the photo. These elements are similar to each other, but they must be manufactured differently (depending on where they are located). Assemble the furniture in the same way as in the diagram. Coffee table made of plywood and blocks is ready!

Plywood is a material that has been unfairly neglected by furniture manufacturers. It is environmentally friendly, has high wear resistance and durability. Despite the low cost, manufacturers continue to give preference to even cheaper, but short-lived chipboard.

Of course, you can order furniture from plywood, but why not make a set from it yourself? Such a new interior will be exclusive, in which you can show all your imagination. In addition, you don’t need to become a carpenter to do this: a minimum of tools and skills will suffice.

How to choose plywood?

IN highest degree The easy-to-work material seems to invite creativity and experimentation. Despite its strength, plywood is easy to cut and design. The sheet can be given any desired shape: it bends and will not break.

Plywood is a number of veneer sheets glued together. As a rule, birch or coniferous trees are used, and the leaf inside can be made of coniferous, and the outside is birch. More expensive and high-quality plywood is made from hardwood.

When choosing plywood, pay attention to the following parameters:

The brand is responsible for the scope of application and moisture resistance. Sheets of the FK, FOF and FKM brands are suitable for furniture. The second option, laminated plywood, is the best, but costs more than the others.
The grade characterizes the appearance of the surface. Measured from IV to I, E – premium. Each side has its own designation.
Surface treatment. As in the previous case, it is determined for the parties separately. The designation Ш1 means the presence of grinding on one side, Ш2 – on both sides. ШН – surfaces were not polished.
The formaldehyde content is designated by the letter E with an index from 1 to 3 and characterizes the degree of environmental friendliness.

You also need to pay attention to the quality of gluing of veneer sheets, the quality and type of wood, and the appearance of the sheet. Plywood has an interesting texture and pattern that does not need to be covered with an additional layer of paint. Preference should be given to manufacturers from Russia.

Tools

What tools can a novice carpenter not do without? Plywood does not require complex special equipment. Majority necessary tools everyone has them.

A ruler, compass, tape measure and square are needed to take measurements and draw a drawing.

The choice of cutting tool depends on the thickness of the sheet used. For sheets up to 1.5 mm thick, a sharp knife is enough, up to 6 mm you need a jigsaw, for the thickest sheets you need Circular Saw. You will need a drill to drill the holes.

A chisel, plane, chisel, file and sandpaper are useful for processing parts. The parts are connected using glue, nails and screws. Stock up on tools to work with them.

The choice of accessories depends on what exactly you are going to do. Don’t skimp: high-quality fittings will last longer and won’t let you down at the most inopportune moment.

Stages of work

Making furniture from plywood with your own hands begins with drawing a drawing. You can use ready-made drawings or draw your own. Take measurements of the room, calculate the dimensions of each part. Be extremely careful not to discover the error when it is too late.

Transfer the parts to the prepared sheets. Cut out the blanks suitable tool. The parts are sanded, varnished or painted, and carved. If the plywood has an interesting pattern, why not leave it? Show your imagination and don’t be afraid to experiment.

The parts are connected using nails, screws or glue. Pay special attention to the parts that bear the main load.

After the glue has completely dried, check the resulting structure for strength. If the test passes, congratulations: job done!

Ideas

Plywood is suitable for making almost any home furniture: cabinets, tables and chairs, sofas and beds.

During assembly kitchen furniture use moisture-resistant and wear-resistant types of material. Don't forget about ventilation system and other communications: they should be freely accessible, but when not in use, it is better to hide them from view. Pay special attention to mounted and corner cabinets, since they require precise calculations and care during assembly.

Plywood is ideal for creating children's furniture. The environmentally friendly material is safe, and thanks to its wear resistance, it will “endure” the games of the most active and restless child.

For the cabinet, select plywood of sufficient height and length, since you need to use a single sheet. Thickness also plays an important role: the larger it is, the stronger the structure will be. When calculating the parameters of the side walls, take into account the thickness of the doors. The bottom of the bed must be at least 18 mm thick. Timber should be used for the body frame.

Plywood makes a practical and inexpensive set for a summer house.

Despite the simplicity of working with the material, a beginner should not immediately take on complex project, requiring experience. Start with something simple: a table, a chair. The classic first work is considered to be a rocking chair.

It is not recommended to cut plywood across the grain. If the need arises, make several cuts parallel to the future cut - this will avoid cracking. Moisten the surface of the plywood and fix it in the desired position for 10-16 hours: this way you will give it the desired shape.

Thick sheets of plywood (more than 10 mm) should be treated like wood. When working with softwood plywood, use nails and screws in conjunction with washers to avoid damaging the sheet.

At the joints of the parts, holes must be drilled in advance. The same applies to holes for fittings. The parts must be sanded before gluing. The cut area is treated with sandpaper.

During work there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to work in a separate room. If this is not possible, protect the furniture with covers in advance.

If you have never worked with drawings, look for furniture drawings on the Internet. Even if you can’t find the right one, you will get a general idea of how to draw it correctly.

Get inspired by photos of plywood furniture. Perhaps some idea will suit your taste?

Photo of plywood furniture

Such a table can be very useful if there is a shortage of storage space and if you do not work with wood every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and Part Identifications

Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second one is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or, depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this method was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used bc. e. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25" aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey with shipping but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give better results.

8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

Adhesive & Double Stick Tape Carpet

cookies and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36″ long

Notes:

The blue pieces and one short yellow piece support the pipe. These are shown here, but installed under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

Bolts are overkill, but bigger size easier to use.

Step 2: Cut the Sequences

The idea here is to have similar parts without moving the saw. Tabletop a circular saw can be used, but it was done with the circular saw and rip fence that came with it.

First cut: Rip 24″ off short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. Using some of the cut is important. Track seen, straight edge, etc.

Second cut: From the other end, use your 24″ piece and subtract 4 thicknesses of plywood. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the feet are placed on inside top of the table and outside the shelf.

Cutting them off either side gives greater precision.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces have color coding, and if they have a color or a color point they are one common dimension. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Leg Note: The legs should be 3″ x 3″ when finished. This sheet cut has the short side measuring long for the rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece you made and cut that 37″ long. We cut carefully, with a guide or straight to some edge. Save the cut for later when the short skirt ends and comes out of it.

The next section of the shelf from above is the length. This was done using the second piece. Use the top one you just made as a template and subtract four thicknesses of plywood. Should be about 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt, the ends will be made from this.

Step 3: Drilling Holes, Long Boards

1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, lay them out on top and subtract two thicknesses of plywood. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or miter saw. Set aside.

2. Cut two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when everything is assembled. Clamp and cut all three at once.

3. Next, drill the holes required diameter depending on which pipes you choose. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all “bottoms” for later installation. Drill the holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and drilling machine. All the pieces were put on flat surface with the marked link side down. In short, they were in the center and everything fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide ones in one group, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They should be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter ones as a template, drill two 4-1/2 wide holes. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.

Please also note. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the boards appropriately. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: Drilling Holes, Short Boards

1. The board is supportive. Cut the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting the 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on the miter saw until maximum length Maybe.

2. The pipe supports. Cut long 3-3/4 into two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so that their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.

Similar to long boards these should be stacked and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember the bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do everything else and mark them as B. You don't want to have to bend the pipe to get things to fit.

Pay attention to the holes:

My first holes were for 1″ emt conductor. This material was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However, 1.25 aluminum through a 1-1/4 hole drilled with a fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a feather drill and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Rigor

In my table I have mortised the leg room. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. It's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, the worse thing is to add a few more bolts!

If you choose this should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, the front of the skirt is added before making holes and making a show of it.

Step 6: Assemble the top

This should go pretty quickly. I used a biscuit jointer. If you do this, be sure to tag the boards and links to correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work as well.

All your pieces had a stamp on the bottom. Make sure it is visible when you collect these pieces.

Step 7: Drill at the top

Two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all the way around the top. From this line the centers of the holes are 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 apart in the long direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 is possible. With some fancy geometry you could cut the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scraps. Draw line 2-1/2 all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drill press. Drill one hole line and just opposite the two corners.

Place the template on your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then turn it over and line up the two corner holes with the template from the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4-inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Clamp and drills on line again. Next, I wound the fishing rods, move the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

It worked quite well. The holes looked good, but were not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: Legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in combination with this table, I think there are changes that. Cut as many as you can safely at once for greater accuracy. Make sure you don't use more than 3″ wide boards. The ones on the shelf.

We use 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there was a rabbit and a dado. If you want to use other methods, then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.

Step 9: Assemble the Shelves

We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).

We take the remaining 3 long” wide boards. Lay them out on the shelf on top and put two pieces of plywood at the end to cut total length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.

Assembling the shelf is simple, just like you did the top one. There is no need for additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I'm in the center of the shaft at 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be of more use if several holes are drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes

This guide drills holes in the top and in the shelf exactly. This is not necessary, but if you have all holes turned off, then your legs will be detected specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.

Step 11: Shutters

One of the most budget-friendly tables to make is a table made of plywood. In this article we will step by step analyze the technology of making a plywood table. Plus, we include photographs of production, a drawing and even video instructions, which you will find at the bottom of the page.

Tools and material for making a plywood table

Tool:
Jigsaw
Screwdriver
Sander
Construction corner
Construction tape (meter)
Pencil or pen
Construction line
Wood drill - 5 mm. diameter

Material:
Sheet of furniture plywood - 152x152 cm.
Masking tape
Furniture bolts
Furniture corners
Wood screws

As for the table drawing, everything is simple. We make: 2 legs measuring 76 cm high, 46 cm wide, a table top measuring 100 cm long, 60 cm wide and a stiffening bar measuring 77 cm long, 52 cm wide.

Making a countertop

To make a tabletop, we need to cut a sheet of plywood in half into two parts. As you remember, we took a sheet of plywood measuring 152x152 cm.
Dividing the sheet in half, we got two rectangles measuring 152x76 cm. Here, one of the squares will go on the tabletop, measure 100 cm in length and 60 cm in width, draw lines with a pencil or pen.

By the way, many people wonder how to cut plywood without tearing it. We answer this question, if you remember, then in the list of materials we mentioned molar tape. So, take this tape and glue it tightly, then rub it against the line that we drew, look at the photo:

If you still have questions, you can watch a video on this topic at the bottom of the page. There we show in detail how to prevent plywood from tearing when cutting.

We take a jigsaw and cut along the lines that we drew. Peel off the remaining masking tape from all sawed sides. Now, take a round shape, we took a metal bowl, you can use whatever you like. And we put it on the corners of the tabletop, so that we form a semicircle, that is, we round off the sharp corners, something like this:

We make curves on all four corners and also tape along the lines. Carefully saw off with a jigsaw.

After sawing and removing the remaining masking tape, you need to take grinder, put a sanding belt with grit size No. 100 on it and sand rounded corners.

The tabletop is almost ready, all that remains is to sand down all the unevenness on the surface of the plywood. Taking into account the fact that the plywood is more or less even, it won’t take much time, this is how the tabletop will ultimately look like:

Let's start making the table stiffener

Stiffening bar or otherwise called lateral stability. It plays the role of a support for the table, thanks to this strip we will fix the legs of the table and the table top, thus eliminating the instability and the structure will become stable.

We take the second half of the sheet and mark the rectangle - 77x52 cm. We also cover the lines with tape and cut them with a jigsaw.

As for the pattern of the cross bar, you can watch from the video how to make markings in the shape of a wave. After the markings have been applied and sawed off, you should end up with a table rigidity bar like this:

Making two table legs

It is difficult to make a plywood table with four legs, so we will make two wide, beautiful and voluminous legs. The remainder of the sheet is just enough for two pieces. We mark two rectangles, each measuring 76x46 cm, where 76 cm is the height of the legs, and 46 cm is the width.

Cover with tape and saw off with a jigsaw. You will also find information on how to make markings for a beautiful shape on the sides of the legs in the video clip. We ended up with this drawing:

We cut according to the same pattern. We transfer the finished leg template to the second rectangle, mark it and saw it off again. Now we sand all the blanks, except for the tabletop, and this is the set of finished blanks we got:

Assembling the table frame

Let's start assembling the frame dining table. We take the lateral stability and put marks where the furniture bolts will be tightened. Be careful here, because it is very easy to make a mistake at this step.

Let's get down to business, take the stiffness bar and divide it into three equal parts. If you did according to our instructions, then you should have marks for drilling holes: the first mark is 7 cm, the second is 26.5 cm and the third is 45 cm. The first mark should be made from the top of the plank, where the tabletop lies .

Take a wood drill with a diameter of 5 mm. and make holes in the ends of the stability bar. The drilling depth should be 5.5-6 cm, since the length of a standard furniture bolt is 5 cm. We transfer the same dimensions that we made on the stiffener bar to the table legs.

We also begin to place marks on top of the legs, where the tabletop will go. Divide the legs in half widthwise from top to bottom, draw a thin line with a pencil and put marks on it at 7 cm, 26.5 cm and 45 cm and make through holes with the same wood drill.

After all the holes are made, take one leg and attach all three furniture bolts. We attach the stability bar and tighten all the bolts with a screwdriver. On the other side we place the second leg and also screw it on.
You will get this table frame:

Now, take the tabletop and place the table frame on top. We measure the same distance over the entire area of the tabletop and fasten it using furniture corners with wood screws.

Since the thickness of the plywood is 18 mm. Wood screws should be 15 mm. The product is ready, all that remains is to process the table (carry out paint and varnish work), here, if desired, you can paint, stain, varnish the product or in any other way.

Sections