Drilling machine drawing from a drill. DIY drilling machine

It is advisable to make a drilling machine with your own hands in situations where in a home workshop or garage there will be a need to drill holes in parts of various configurations, as well as those made of different materials. It should be noted that such a device makes it possible to obtain holes with sufficient high level quality.

When you need a homemade drilling machine

In production or repair enterprises, where the drilling operation is considered the most common, a special device is used to perform it, the models of which may have different functionality. So, it can be a compact desktop drilling machine, characterized by a simple design, or equipment equipped with several working spindles and a numerical program controlled.

For drilling holes in various materials, which is performed in a home workshop or garage, you can use home-made equipment. Naturally, for use at home you need a simple device that can be made from components and materials found in almost any garage or home workshop.

And in this article we will not leave unanswered the question of how to make a drilling machine at home, while spending a minimum of money. The drawings and experience of many craftsmen who have already walked this path will help us with this.

The need for such mini drilling equipment for metal, wood or plastic most often arises among those who are used to independently performing various repair work in their house or apartment. Also, quite often radio amateurs are puzzled by the construction.

It would seem that a conventional drill can be used to perform such an operation, but such a tool is not always able to provide the required quality and accuracy of drilling operations. Homemade, in addition to its compactness, has another important quality: it can install drills of various types.

Drilling machine from a conventional drill

To make a small but functional drilling machine for your home workshop, you do not need to purchase special materials and components. The design of such a convenient and useful desktop device contains the following components:

• the base, which is also called the bed;
• a mechanism that ensures rotation of the working tool (a conventional drill can be used as such a mechanism);
• device for providing supply;
• a vertical stand on which the rotation mechanism is fixed.

The stand on which the drill will be mounted can be made from a sheet of chipboard. This material quite capable of supporting the weight of such a device. The bed of such a mini-machine should be more massive, since it protects the entire structure from vibrations, which can negatively affect both the quality and accuracy of the resulting hole, and the comfort of work.

As a material for this frame, you can use an ordinary furniture board, the thickness of which is more than 2 cm. It is most convenient to use the base of an old photographic enlarger for this, slightly modifying its design. Sometimes an old microscope is used, but this is a rather rare option, since such a unit will not be large enough and its use will be limited.

The quality and accuracy that a homemade drilling machine will provide depends primarily on how correctly and reliably the connection of its base and vertical stand is made. Important elements Such a micro machine consists of two guides along which the block with the drill attached to it will move. Such guides are best made from two strips of steel, which must be securely screwed to the rack using screws.

When making the block, it is advisable to use steel clamps that will securely fix the drill on it. In addition, in order to avoid unwanted vibration processes when drilling, a thick rubber gasket must be installed at the junction of the block and the drill.

After this, you need to make a feed mechanism for such a mini machine, which should ensure the movement of the electric drill in the vertical direction. The manufacturing schemes for such a mechanism may be different, but it traditionally contains in its design a lever and a spring, which is attached at one end to the stand, and at the other to the block with the drill. This spring gives the feed mechanism greater rigidity.

Drilling machine from a drill that is not planned to be removed from it, you can make it more convenient to use if you disassemble the original switch of the drill and mount a separate button on the frame of the mini equipment. This button will always be at your fingertips and will allow you to quickly turn the device on and off. As you can see, it’s not at all difficult to make a drilling machine from a drill; all you need to do is read these instructions carefully or watch the training videos in this article.

An example of a drill machine in more detail

As an example, let's look in more detail at one of the options for a homemade drill assembled at home.

Manufacturing a machine using an asynchronous motor

The absence of an extra electric drill in the household is not a reason to abandon the idea of ​​​​making a drilling machine with your own hands. Any electric motor can be used to drive the rotation mechanism of such equipment. Such engines, which were previously installed on various equipment, are likely to be found in the garage or workshop of any home craftsman.

Asynchronous motors, which are equipped with washing machines, are best suited for making a mini drilling machine. If you have such a motor, you can confidently use it to make home drilling equipment. Making drilling equipment with such an engine at home is somewhat more difficult than using a drill, but the power of such a machine will be much higher.

Considering the fact that the weight of an asynchronous motor is greater than the mass conventional drill, you will need a stronger base and stand to accommodate the feed mechanism.

In order for such a mini drilling and attachment machine to vibrate less during operation, it is necessary to install the motor on a powerful base and place it as close to the stand as possible. But here it is important to maintain the correct distance, since the convenience of installing the belt drive depends on it, due to which the rotation from the motor will be transmitted to the drilling head.

In order for you to make such a machine at home, you will need the following structural elements:

• gear;
• a hexagon on which the pulley will be placed;
• two bearings;
• two tubes, one of which must have an internal thread;
• clamping ring, which must be made of durable steel.

The hexagon also connects to a metal tube, bearing and clamping ring. Such a connection must be very reliable so that the resulting assembly does not collapse during operation.

The mechanism necessary to ensure the feed of the tool in such a mini machine must consist of a tube on which cuts are first made, and a gear. The tube will move due to the connection of its teeth with these cuts. An axle with a hexagon is then pressed into this tube, the height of which must correspond to the amount of the required tool feed.

Those who have ever used an electric drill have encountered difficulties when it is necessary to make a bunch of holes. It's a disaster if there are holes in the board, but making holes in the metal? For this purpose, the industry came up with a drilling machine. Those who have it are very lucky, and those who don’t have it - prepare your pockets.

Personally, my pocket is small, so I can’t afford a factory drilling machine. Well, Chinese, made of tin, I can certainly afford it, but it’s bullshit. Soviet, semi-complete ones are unreasonably expensive. In principle, I didn’t consider magazine racks for drills, they were too childish. Wandering around the Internet I found a lot of homemade products, but the availability of turning work stopped me. You can order a couple of parts from a turner, but no one wants to share normal drawings, and when you design a part yourself, a mess will always come out. If a jamb comes out, run back to the turner and ask him to fix it. But one day I came across interesting video from Zhelezjaka about a homemade stand for a drill. Simple design, repeatable and versatile. While watching the video from Zhelezjaka There were no analogues of this design yet.

I was going to make this stand for a whole year, maybe more. After going on vacation, I finally started work. I made some adjustments to the design; they do not fundamentally change the machine, but they unify the materials and reduce the manufacturing time of some elements. I tried to use the minimum amount of purchased material, I tried to use the garbage that I had. But we still couldn’t do without shopping. From the main one, I bought an additional pipe for the guide, a corner and a strip, 1 meter for each position.

Now let's look at the manufacturing process. Actually, my carriage guide is also made of square pipe 40x40x3 mm. I bought the iron in a small hardware store; the rolled metal there is stored practically in the open air and is not particularly high in quality. But there is one advantage to this: you can touch everything there and choose better. And so it happened. From the beginning I wanted to take a pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm, but the seller and I were unable to choose an even piece. I took a wall thickness of 3 mm; thick-walled pipes are much smoother. Steel is steel and traces of corrosion are an integral part of it. Therefore, I had to clean almost the entire rental, especially the guide. I did not bring him to a state of cat pride.

I forgot to say that in advance I prepared a set of preliminary drawings, according to which I made the basic elements. A set of final drawings will be posted at the end of the article. Blank to size mode. Here is the first deviation from the author's project, I took a corner for the carriage and bracket 45x45x4 mm. A 40x40 pipe fits perfectly into it, there is no need to cut anything and an excellent installation gap is formed (seen in the photo below). I tried to repeat the author's manufacturing technology.

I put some sandpaper on it, clamped it on the guide with clamps, and welded everything together from the heart. And then remove the figurines, clamping it so that “mother, don’t worry”! I was able to remove the rack bracket only by knocking it against the rest of the 45th corner. Next, I cut the entire corner, welded the carriage, put twice as much sandpaper and that’s it…. How much was spent swear words, smoked cigarettes and cursed everything that moved nearby I can no longer remember, but I couldn’t separate one from the other. How the author makes everything so simple, I don’t know. And the technology, in my opinion, should be as follows: put double-folded sandpaper -> compress it with clamps -> weld the edges on all four corners -> completely boil one of the edges -> let it cool completely -> try to remove it from the mandrel. If it comes off the frame, then weld the second edge. If it doesn’t work, then cut off the tacks on the uncooked edge and lightly remove the guide. In the photo below there are already welded blanks; the smallest one will not be used.

I made Stanina out of what I had. And I had almost a meter of channel 8. I adjusted the length of the bed to the length of the rest of the square pipe that remained after making the guide. Below is a picture of the installation process of the rack bracket. To be honest, this bed design is not very good. The shelves of the channel are all crooked, one piece is concave, the other is convex. Horror, not rental. He pretended to set it at a right angle, although it was unclear to what plane. I will deal with perpendicularity later.

and back. The rear panel has two threaded holes. These holes will serve to secure the machine in a horizontal position when processing wood.

And fasteners to secure the stand in a vertical position. A single bolt is welded to provide grounding. The holes for the wires are not visible here, but they are in the drawings.

About the adjustable feet. Standard legs from the refrigerator or washing machine, by some chance it didn’t turn out, I’m just amazed. I had to make it from a bolt and an enlarged washer, the price was a couple of kopecks. But I had those things into which the legs are screwed, but tall nuts would fit perfectly in their place.

The drum is the one that will spin the cable. I took a creative approach to making this part. It works exactly the same, but is designed differently. Steel bars larger than 10mm in diameter are difficult to find in a home shed, and my shed is no exception. Plus, I immediately resolved the issue of the removable handle. As an axis I used an M10 bolt with a short GOST thread. Cutting off the excess from it I got a smooth axle. The bolt head will serve as a kind of element for engaging the axle with the handle. The outer part of the drum will serve as a water pipe. If you do not have such a pipe in your metal waste, then you can replace it with a pipe purchased at the nearest plumbing store. To center the axle we had to make bushings, so to speak, manual method, without lathe. To do this, I clamped two M10 nuts on the remaining bolt scrap (don’t throw away the scrap, it will come in handy later), inserted it into a drill and sharpened the entire structure using an electric sharpener. Since there are no threads on the bolt trim, the threads in the bushings also need to be drilled. The bolt head has a hole with an M5 thread for attaching the handle. It turned out pretty good.

In the picture below, I have already welded the bushings to the axle, the main thing is not to forget to put on one of the eyes first. There are holes in the outer race of the drum through which the race will be welded to the bushings. All dimensions and clearances are indicated in the drawings.

Here's the result:

Carriage. There’s not much to tell here, we’ll assemble everything according to the drawings. Just one addition. In the original, the carriage is locked with one of the adjusting bolts. After all, they are adjustable, so as not to touch them, so after welding all the parts, I made an additional threaded hole specifically for the locking bolt. I made the threads for the adjusting bolts only with a rough tap, in order to prevent spontaneous unwinding.

View from the other side. Sorry about my welds, I cook as I can.

The handle is also a lever. After looking at the photo, don’t throw tomatoes. In my design, the lever is made from a 17-size open-end wrench. It had a broken cap, so I gave the short spanner a second life.

On the one hand, I welded a homemade washer from a strip onto the cap part of the key.

Next is an element that is not in original design- this is an emphasis. This stop is attached to the top of the guide post and is used when securing the machine in a horizontal position. The holes for mounting to the stand are not made coaxially to minimize rotation of the stop.

Another new detail. I called it "table". Since there is no plane on my bed, I had to twist around. It's made from a piece laminated chipboard, Not the best option, but that's it for now. With the help of screws I have the opportunity to set the working plane perpendicular to the stand.

This is what it looks like. The photo also shows an auxiliary carriage on which a ruler and a tool for woodworking will be placed.

And here you can see the table adjustment element.

It's time to make a bracket for attaching the drill. And again the materials that I had were used. Clamp made of strip 25x4 mm, pipe extension 30x30x2. This strip fits perfectly inside the pipe, making it easier to attach one to the other. And this rotation of the clamp ensures perfect alignment. The clamp is made by tapping a strip around a pipe with a diameter of 40 - 42 mm.

A little closer.

And brew it carefully. I was worried about the quality of these seams, since this is the weakest place in the entire structure.

Let's put the welder aside for a while and get to the drill. As I already said, I had been planning to make the machine for a whole year. During this time I acquired a drill, which I don’t mind. It was given to me as a non-working one. The wire was simply crushed inside and over time it burned out in this place. I corrected the wire, but the drill, apparently, is very tired and full of backlash. The first thing to replace was the cartridge and rolling bearings. The shank bushing was also broken.

To be honest, I would rip the hands off these designers who are in a simple drill added ratchet function. There is no sense, the bearings are broken and the axial movement of the cartridge adds to all the delights. The most interesting thing, at least in this drill, is that the ratchet unit is the same size as the outer race of bearing No. 608. My attempts to knock the ratchet out of the silumin cage were unsuccessful; I had to cut off the teeth with a hacksaw and go to the market to look for a bronze bushing. And at the market they charged an absurd price for this sleeve, which I was very offended by and basically left with nothing. In place of the bronze gold bushing, the inner race from the same 608 bearing fits perfectly in size. One bad thing is that this is a one-time replacement; next time you will have to change the bushing along with the cartridge shaft. Let's see how long he lives. To eliminate the axial movement of the shaft, instead of a repelling spring, I installed a bushing made from a plumbing fitting, and placed a machined washer on the other side. The bearings have been replaced, the backlash has been eliminated, and the mechanisms have been lubricated.

Attention, the faint of heart, please do not look at next picture! Since this drill was specially reserved for the machine, I tried to make it so that it could only work in this machine. I cut the handle. From the barbarian... The start button was removed, the reverse lever remained in its original place, the cut was covered with a neat lid.

And what did I get in the end? I placed the button in the cavity of the frame, made a threaded hole in the front panel and tightened the adjusting screw there. Thus, I received a remote speed control unit. You tighten the screw, it gradually presses a button that changes the speed of the drill. Separately mounted a toggle switch for turning on the machine.

Below is the process of assembling the spindle bracket. I attached a guide from the printer to the chuck, which made it possible to relatively accurately align the axis of the tool perpendicular to the table.

Here is the welded bracket. I immediately made a hole in the table and bed. I cut a thread in the bed to screw in the center to hold the wooden workpiece during turning work. Then he began to prepare parts for the manufacture of a handicraft (Podruchnik is a stand for cutting tool on a lathe).

And here he is ready. It has simplified functionality; there is no height adjustment. I have never worked as a woodturner in my life, or metal lathe either, I will learn and try.

And in principle, the machine is ready; almost the maximum load was chosen for the test. The first serious hole was made with a 13 mm drill in the front panel of the machine to install the toggle switch; let me remind you, the panel is made of a 4 mm thick strip. The result exceeded all expectations, without preliminary drilling and a minimum of effort, without even straining, I drilled a hole in a matter of seconds. I was glad, the state of euphoria passed and noble traces of young rust began to catch my eye. I was in a hurry to assemble everything and didn’t bother to paint it in detail. Now we have to take everything apart.

As always, I waited until it got colder to start painting. Therefore, I had to paint in the barn, it’s not a pleasant pleasure, paint on the street. I chose green color, this association has been around since childhood - if it’s a machine, then it’s green.

Painting the bed. I was too lazy to take out the wire, a collective farm is a collective farm.

The paint has dried and here is the result of the work:

On the other side:

And in the lathe position:

Here are the promised drawings. I ask all norm inspectors and very smart people not to comment on the drawings, or even look at them :)) joke. Enjoy it for your health! I even made a specification according to which you can estimate the volume necessary materials. But I must warn you, do not blindly believe the drawings, double-check, I am not a robot and can sometimes make mistakes.

The result is a great tool. I cannot yet fully evaluate the turning option, since I only have a chisel instead of cutters. But as a drill there are a couple of “buts”:

1. Try to make a bed like the author's Zhelezjaka, the design will be simpler, lighter and smoother.
2. One shoulder handle is terribly uncomfortable, it’s hard to explain why it’s inconvenient, but it’s uncomfortable. I will remake it into a three-armed one. In my version it’s simple, I unscrewed one and screwed the other. If you do it according to the original version, then pay attention to this.
3. The handle is placed, as it were, behind the machine, which increases the required free space. In the future I will move it closer to the spindle using a chain drive.
4. The front center (the toothed thing that rotates the wood piece) does a very poor job of holding the piece. The design needs to be changed.

And don’t forget to use the tools when working personal protection. Do not violate safety requirements, no matter how stupid and ridiculous they may seem.

Drilling work is not particularly difficult and often does not require any equipment other than a conventional drill. Therefore, home workshops may not have a drilling machine. However, if you have a home-made benchtop drilling machine, you can breathe a sigh of relief, as some of your worries will be resolved on their own.

Purpose of the drilling machine

Sometimes situations arise when an electric or hand drill is not able to provide the desired parameters of the hole being drilled. Often in amateur radio practice it is necessary to make printed circuit boards, where many holes should be drilled that have a small diameter. Drilling holes with a diameter of 0.5-1 millimeter with a hand or electric drill or a large drilling machine is inconvenient, and the drill may break.

Purchasing industrial drilling machines is not always economically feasible, and then you can make a homemade drilling machine. Many people choose mini drilling machines, because, despite the apparent complexity of the design, they are actually very simple equipment and consist of four parts.

A homemade drilling machine is intended for drilling through and blind holes in solid material, for example, drilling, reaming, countersinking, cutting out sheet materials discs and internal thread cutting. Drilling and milling machines can perform milling, surface grinding, inclined face milling and horizontal milling.

To perform the above operations, a countersink, drill, tap, reamer and other tools are used. Applying special devices And additional tools, you can cut a hole with a large diameter, bore the hole and grind the hole accurately.

Types of drilling machines

Drilling machines are of the following types: single- and multi-spindle semi-automatic, vertical drilling, jig boring, radial drilling, horizontal boring, horizontal boring, diamond boring. Models are designated by numbers and letters. The first number indicates the group to which the machine is classified, the second - the type of machine, the third and fourth - the dimensions of the machine or the dimensions of the workpiece being processed.

The letter that appears after the first digit means that a certain model of drilling machine is modernized. If the letter is located at the end, then it should be understood that a different drilling machine was made based on the main model. Among all drilling machines, we can distinguish the following main types of universal machines: multi- and single-spindle, radial and horizontal drilling.

Depending on the area of ​​use, there are special and universal drilling equipment. Wide Application They also found specialized machines for mass production and large-scale industry, which are manufactured on the basis of universal machines by equipping them with multi-spindle thread-cutting and drilling heads and thanks to the automation of the work cycle.

Drilling machine design

A drilling machine, like other technological machines, consists of the following components: a transmission mechanism, a motor, controls and a working element. The transmission mechanism is designed to transmit movement from an electric motor to a working element, which is a drill, which is mounted in a chuck mounted on a spindle - a rotating shaft.

Rotation to the spindle from an electric motor is transmitted using a belt drive. By turning the handle, the chuck and drill bits can be lowered or raised using a rack and pinion drive.

On the front panel of the drilling machine there are buttons to turn the electric motor off and on. The design of the drilling machine is quite simple: the machine is turned on by pressing one of the outer buttons, depending on the desired direction of spindle rotation; the machine can be turned off by pressing the middle red button.

A vertical column screw is fixedly attached to the base of the machine. By turning the handle, you can move the spindle head up or down along the screw; the second handle serves to fix it in the required position. Control the depth of blind holes using the provided scale.

Depending on the workpiece material, different drilling speeds are required. To do this, it is customary to set a certain spindle rotation speed by throwing a belt drive onto pulleys of various diameters. Factory shops use more complex drilling machine designs than those just discussed.

Operating principle of the machine

Before drilling using a homemade machine, you need to remove all unnecessary things from the workbench. The workpiece with the marked centers of the holes must be secured in a vice. Next, insert the drill required diameter into the cartridge and secured with a special key. To check the correctness of the work performed, the machine is turned on for a while.

If you have installed the drill correctly, its tip will not describe a circle when rotating. If it is installed skewed and its beating occurs, then the drilling machine must be turned off and the drill secured according to the instructions of the drilling machine. Then turn the feed handle, lower the drill and install the vice with the workpiece in such a way that the core coincides with the tip of the drill.

Turn on the machine and drill a hole, press the feed handle smoothly, without much effort or jerking. When drilling a through hole, place the workpiece on wooden block so that the drill does not break and the machine table does not deteriorate.

When drilling a deep hole, remove the drill from the hole from time to time and cool it by dipping it in a bowl of coolant. It is recommended to reduce the pressure on the handle at the end of drilling. After drilling the hole, smoothly turn the feed wheel, raise the spindle to its highest position and turn off the machine.

Making a drilling machine

A drilling machine is easy to make with your own hands. In everyday life, it is beneficial to have on hand devices and tools for performing carpentry and plumbing work. After the obsolescence of many household appliances, the owners still have many useful spare parts and electric motors in their arsenal, from which they can, if desired, make such useful equipment as a drilling machine.

Drilling machine from a drill

The most simple solution You will be able to assemble a mini drilling machine with your own hands using a drill. The drill weighs a little, so the stand can be made from chipboard, boards or sheet metal. For comfortable work on such homemade machine it is necessary that it be quite massive to absorb the vibration of the drill and sufficiently stable.

It is important to obtain a right angle between the holder and the base. Typically, the drill is attached using two clamps (it is better to place a rubber gasket between the clamp and the drill) to a board that moves along guides that are attached to this movable board and to another stationary board. The downward and upward movement of the movable board is controlled using a lever associated with it.

The downward movement of the lever can be limited by a block that supports the lever in the lower position. The fixed board is attached to the horizontal pipe through a flange. The horizontal pipe is attached to the vertical pipe, which is attached through a flange to the base of the machine (to a thick wide board) or to the workbench.

The height of the bar, which limits the lower position of the lever, is adjustable, which allows you to change the drilling depth. Make 4 holes in the movable board that are intended for fixing the drill clamps. On the side facing the stationary board, narrow slats are glued, which are lubricated with wax for better glide.

The drill, in addition to the clamps, is fixed with two rods that support it from below. Since with such fastening the shape of the drill does not strictly ensure the vertical position of the drill, you need to glue a strip to the board to compensate for this.

To ensure free movement of the drill, the guides must be prepared strictly in the vertical direction. They can be a protrusion metal profiles made of aluminum, which are screwed with threaded screws to the boards along the entire length. Having assembled a strong and stable structure, it is necessary to fasten the profile guides strictly perpendicular to the plane of the base and parallel to each other.

In the photo of self-made drilling machines, the attachment points to the moving platform of the drill and the installation method for the guide profiles are clearly visible. The guides must ensure high-quality pressing of the movable board to the stationary board. The main condition for this is the absence of distortions and backlash.

When assembling the lever, remember that you cannot tighten the moving parts; it is customary to use a second nut to lock the nuts. The rail that leads to the moving board from the lever should be rounded at the end. After reducing the pressure forces, to automatically raise the drill to the top position, it is necessary to set the springs to compression or tension.

One end of the spring is attached to the horizontal pipe with wire, and the other end is attached to the bottom of the movable board. When the spring is not flexible enough and a stationary board interferes, this is done through a rope.

Machine made from a washing machine motor

Drawing of a drilling machine, which is assembled based on a motor from washing machine, differs from the one discussed above in the most complex mechanics and type of electric drive. Asynchronous motor from old washing machine is heavier and has more vibration. The shaking will be stronger the further away the engine is from the rack.

Intense vibration causes inaccurate drilling and drill breakage. There are two options - make a powerful frame so that when the drill is lowered, the drive also lowers, or place the motor motionless closer to the holder stand, then only the working part of the drilling machine will move.

The second method involves a more complex execution. Here you need a pulley and a belt that allow you to adjust the rotation speed. There are many solutions without a belt drive with a drive located against the wall. They are much easier to assemble, but the assembly discussed below takes a non-standard approach, and certain techniques used may be useful.

Vibrations still remain, but they are so minimal that when drilling iron with a 0.7 mm drill, the drill remains intact. At home about high precision When manufacturing such mechanisms, one can only dream; it is still necessary to strive for maximum fit of parts. The characteristics of the drilling machine and its performance will depend on this.

The moving part of the machine consists of an axial hexagon, a tube of a suitable size, a clamping ring and two bearings and a tube with an internal thread for securing the chuck. A pulley is subsequently placed on the hexagon, part of the future transmission system. The tube must first be sawed lengthwise at both ends with a grinder, and make the cuts on top deep enough to ensure reliable adhesion to the hexagon.

The entrance must be made tight and driven in with a hammer. If donning occurs without special effort, then you need to select another handset. Then fill the compression ring and bearings. The height adjustment system consists of a pipe with notches and a gear. To make cuts accurately, you need to roll out the plasticine and drive a gear along it.

An imprint will appear that can be easily measured and appropriate markings made on the adjusting pipe. The length of this ladder must correspond maximum height, onto which you can lift the drill. Press the axle with hexagon and bearings into the slotted pipe.

Such a design will move back and forth vertically in a stationary frame tube as the gear rotates. At the same time, the axis rotates in a horizontal plane through a belt drive. The frame is made from a metal corner using bolts. The entire structure is mounted on the wall.

And finally, remember that the first option for assembling a drilling machine is preferable. The assembly option proposed by the second can be supplemented or improved. However, such a simplified solution deserves attention.

Drilling operations do not have any specific difficulties, and most often do not require additional equipment, with the exception of a simple drill. Therefore, at home, a drilling machine may not be available.

If you have a drilling machine made from a drill with your own hands, remain calm, because in this case some of the problems are solved by themselves.

Purpose and device

There are situations in which an electric or hand-powered drill cannot achieve the required geometric characteristics of the holes being drilled. Very often in amateur radio technical specifications there is a need to manufacture electronic boards, where, according to the drawing, it is necessary to drill a large number of holes having a small diameter.

It is extremely inconvenient to make holes with nominal diameters of about 0.3...0.8 mm using hand or electric drills, and there is also a high probability that the drill will simply burst.

Buying industrial drilling units is economically unwise. There is a need to manufacture homemade drilling equipment. Many people prefer mini-drilling machines; these mechanisms are quite simple units and have four components.

Homemade drilling machines are intended for making through and blind holes in semi-finished products, in particular, cutting plaques from sheet metal and cutting internal threads of various configurations. Drilling and milling machines have the ability to mill at various angles and/or grind workpieces.

To carry out the activities described above, countersinks, drills, taps and other technical tools are used. By using specialized equipment and optional tools, it becomes possible to cut holes with large diameters, make borings and carry out grinding in a precise manner.

Operating principle of the machine

Before the drilling process due to homemade equipment, you need to hide everything unnecessary from the table. The workpiece with pre-designated centers for future holes must be secured in a vice. Next, insert the drill of the required parameters into the headstock and tighten it special key. To check the correctness of the operations performed, the machine is turned on for a certain period of time.

If the drill is standing in the right way, during rotation, its end will not “write out” an ellipse or circle. If it is positioned with a certain distortion and its “beating” occurs, then the equipment must be disconnected from the power supply and the drill must be secured again, relying on technical instructions this unit. Next, turn the handle, move the drill down and fix the clamps with the semi-finished product being processed so that the core coincides with the end of the drill.

Connect the equipment and perform the necessary technical operations, operate the feed handle smoothly, without significant use of force or jerking. By doing through holes Place the workpiece on a wooden beam so that the working element does not burst and the table of your mechanism does not deteriorate.

When drilling deep holes, periodically remove the working element from the work area, thus cooling it. It is also recommended to dip it in a container with coolant. The clamping force of the handle at the end of the drilling operation must be reduced. Having completed everything necessary, smoothly scroll the feed handle up and turn off the equipment from the electrical power.

Blueprints

Drilling machine from a drill: step-by-step instructions

You do not need improvised semi-finished products with high tensile strength or any specialized tools. A mini-machine for performing drilling operations has only 4 fundamental components:

The stand, as a rule, is made using simple chipboard or planed boards, because the mass of such a unit is insignificant and does not require the use of more reinforced materials.

It is best to design the bed as massive. This will eliminate the occurrence of any vibrations during drilling, and, consequently, the most convenient working process.

Parameters of quality and accuracy of drilling operations on homemade cars directly depend on the correct articulation of the base and the guide. This means that this “piece” of work must be approached with maximum responsibility.

The block itself must be made so that the electric drill is securely fixed.
The drive mechanism of drilling equipment from a drill has the design of a simple lever that moves the block along a vertical axis.

If your goal is to obtain maximum comfort at work and there are no plans to periodically dismantle electric drill, we recommend disassembling its switch.

Video: DIY drilling machine from a drill.

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A drilling machine made from a drill is a special device that simplifies the process of creating holes in metal, wood, and plastic of various configurations.

To save money without losing the quality of the result, you can make a drill press from a drill yourself, using simple and basic tools.

What is a drilling machine?

A homemade drilling machine from a drill is required for those people who often do drilling.

Unlike conventional, manual drilling, in which the drill is not secured, drilling with an improved device allows you to get a better result.

A drilling machine made from a hand drill can have both compact dimensions suitable for desktop installation, and more substantial parameters that turn it into a floor-standing machine.

Professional drilling machines, which are sold in specialized construction stores, are very expensive.

As a rule, device models of this plan are equipped with several work zones and often software control, which increases the productivity of the equipment.

For “home” use, the use of advanced machines is often impractical.

Therefore, many people, faced with the need to purchase a drilling machine to perform simple operations, prefer to make it themselves.

How to make your own high-quality drilling machine from scrap materials that can easily cope with the responsibilities assigned to it and is designed to work with various materials?

Before you begin manufacturing the machine, you should study the drawings and accompanying information, which will allow you to understand the structure of the device in more depth.

Advantages of a drilling machine made from a drill, made by yourself:

• minimal cash costs for purchasing parts;
• compact dimensions allowing the device to be transported from place to place;
• high precision of the work performed;
• possibility of using drills various diameters etc.

In order for the drilling carried out using the assembled device to be of high quality, care should be taken to create a truly thoughtful model.

A properly assembled drilling machine should consist of the following parts:

• stands that will serve as a support for installing objects;
• a rotating mechanism that starts the drill;
• a device that supplies electricity;
• vertical stand supporting the weight of the working device.

IN living conditions the role of the rotating mechanism is often played by a conventional drill with a suitable configuration.

It can be securely attached to the machine, making the design of the device “monolithic,” or it can be used as a removable element that is installed immediately before work.

Making a drilling machine from a household drill

The horizontal support, called the frame, can be made from an ordinary wooden slab, the thickness of which ranges from twenty to fifty millimeters.

As an alternative material you can use dense sheet Fiberboard or chipboard, base from an unused photo enlarger, etc.

Some craftsmen make drilling machine frames using parts from old Soviet microscopes.

It is worth noting that the drilling machine installed on the base of this device will only be suitable for working with small parts.

The material for the stand that supports the weight of the structure can be a sheet of chipboard or a wooden beam (it is better to select a block with dimensions of five by five centimeters).

The larger the area and thickness of the bed, the less vibration the machine will produce during operation. The less vibration, the higher the drilling accuracy.

Vibration can be minimized by securely fastening the stand and frame.

Do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill. Part 2 | Homemade Drill Press

The strength of the structure can be increased by additionally treating the joints of all static components of the machine with glue suitable for these materials.

To expand the operating capabilities of a homemade drilling machine, you should install a pair of wooden (or metal) guides on the stand along which you can move the drill holder.

As a drill holder (or, in other words, a block), you can use a steel clamp equipped with a locking mechanism.

Thanks to it, it will be convenient to attach the drill to the machine before work and take it out as needed.

You can further reduce the level of vibration that occurs during operation of the machine by protecting the joints between the drill body and the steel clamp with a special insulating gasket made of rubber.

The mechanism that will ensure the vertical movement of the drill body must be equipped with a lever and a spring attached to a stand and a block.

To form this mechanism, it is better to use high-quality springs with a large diameter and high rigidity.

If you own several drills, then use one of them as a permanent working device for the drilling machine.

When manufacturing a capital device that will be equipped with a permanent drill, it makes sense to move the drill power button to the machine body, disassembling the device’s on/off switch and extending the necessary wires.

It will be easier to work with an “improved” mechanism, the turning on and off of which is easier to control.

Creating an asynchronous drilling machine

How to make an asynchronous drilling-type additive machine using available materials?

This question is asked by many people who want to expand the functionality of the devices they use.

To make an asynchronous type drilling machine, it is not necessary to use an electric drill.

A mechanism that will create holes of the required diameter in selected materials can be created by including any electric motor with suitable power in the chain of working elements.

You can find electric motors in specialized stores, or you can disassemble the old household appliances, which has fairly large parameters.

Ideally, an asynchronous drilling machine will be made on the basis of an engine that previously started a household washing machine.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that for this part you should select a rack and frame of the required density and correct sizes to intelligently distribute the weight of their overall structure.

The engine will act as an asynchronous machine, powered by electric alternating current and having an unequal rotor speed.

The level of vibration that occurs during operation of an asynchronous machine can be reduced by installing the motor on a thick base, placing it in minimum distance from the counter.

The space between the base and the stand must be suitable for the free movement of the belt responsible for starting the drilling head (when the motor rotates).

Materials and mechanisms that should be used when creating an asynchronous drilling machine:

• a reliable frame and stand made of wood;
• metal guides;
• gears and hexagons designed to fix the pulley;
• bearings of the required diameter;
• two metal pipes (hollow and equipped with external thread);
• steel clamp.

Assembling the device should begin by connecting a hollow metal pipe, a hexagon and a clamping ring.

It is important to ensure that there are no gaps at the junction of these devices.

Then you should file the second one metal pipe, forming a homemade carving on its body. The height of the pipe used must be suitable for subsequent press-in of the hexagon axle.

After everything preparatory work will be completed, the device should be assembled and its operation tested on “rough” materials.

If the device equipped asynchronous motor, will not work correctly, then it should be sorted out and the problems sorted out before putting it into serious operation.

At home, to create holes in metal, wood or plastic, it is better to use a simple drilling machine made on the basis of a conventional electric drill.

Any beginner who is familiar only with basic knowledge in the construction business can make this device.

Today we will tell you why it is needed hammer drill and how it works.

A conventional drill produces only rotational movements, thanks to which it is capable of drilling wood, plastic or even metal. But what if you need to drill into concrete or brick?

Create a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, drawings to help!

Concrete and brick are durable materials and a regular drill simply won’t go deep into them when rotating, but at the same time, concrete and brick crumble upon impact.

Impact drill uses this feature, it is capable of not only performing rotational movements, but also simultaneously translational (shock movements). Let's take a closer look at the operating principle of an impact drill.

An impact drill can operate in normal drill mode, i.e. only in drilling mode. In this case, the motor spindle simply transmits rotational movements to the main gear of the gearbox, which is connected to the chuck. The drill usually rotates.

If you turn on the impact mode, then a second ratchet, which is rigidly fixed to the drill body, will move to the ratchet (a flat gear with oblique teeth) on the main gear. When the motor spindle rotates, the oblique teeth of the ratchets repel each other. The main gear together with the shaft (as well as the chuck with attached equipment) makes translational movements along the axis. This is how shock mode works.

In impact mode, you need to use pobedit drills.

Disadvantages of an Impact Drill

This operating principle is fraught with several disadvantages. Firstly, the amplitude of movement of the drill along the axis is quite small, which reduces the effectiveness of the impact mode. Secondly, the force of the impact directly depends on the force of pressure on the drill itself, i.e. The harder you press on the drill, the more the drill crumbles the concrete. When working with an impact drill, your hands get tired pretty quickly. Thirdly, the impact drill mechanism is quite short-lived. The ratchet parts wear out over time and the drill turns from an impact drill into a regular one. Therefore, it is recommended to use the shock mode occasionally. If you constantly work with concrete, then it is better to buy a hammer drill.

You should not use an impact drill with concrete grade higher than 300.

How an impact drill works video

For a skilled person, nothing is impossible.

Name of the site!

And if desired, a talented enthusiast is able to make anything. Today we will talk about how to assemble a drilling machine with your own hands, since this topic is more than relevant. Buying a factory model, even if we are talking about used equipment, requires considerable expenses for the family budget. We will tell you how to assemble a metal drilling machine from available materials with minimal investment.

Today there are 2 proven designs that are easy to assemble in a “garage” environment. This is a machine based on an electric drill and a unit based on a conventional asynchronous motor from a household appliance. Let's consider each of the options in turn.

Homemade machine based on an electric drill

We will take an ordinary electric drill as the basis for our future machine. This tool is lightweight. This suggests that we do not have to use structures made of durable metals as a rack. Ordinary wooden boards or even chipboard will be quite suitable for our purposes.

A homemade metal drilling machine based on a drill consists of four main components, such as a bed, vertical stand, electric drill and feed mechanism. The choice of the base of the machine (bed) is a very important moment, since the intensity of vibrations during operation will depend on the strength and massiveness of this structure. This is very important, since a massive bed will improve the quality of workpiece processing.

What can be used as a base for the machine? If you have a Soviet photographic enlarger at home that was used to develop photographs, you are in luck. After some manipulations, it can be easily turned into a full-fledged base for a homemade drilling machine. If you couldn’t find a photo enlarger even on the used equipment market, you can replace this element with an ordinary structure made from a 20-mm furniture board. It will provide sufficient rigidity for precise work.

When fixing the frame to the stand, it is very important that a perfectly right angle is maintained between them. This will increase drilling accuracy.

On the rack you need to fix two guides, which can be made from ordinary metal strips. The guides will move the block with the drill fixed on it using clamps. For additional vibration isolation of the tool, it makes sense to put a rubber gasket between the electric drill and the block.

Vertical movement of the block must be carried out using a lever. In order not to experience discomfort during drilling, it makes sense to equip the feed mechanism with a spring capable of returning the tool to its original position. The spring must be fixed on one side to the block, and on the other to a fixed beam.

If you do not plan to use an electric drill autonomously, you can take care of the ergonomics of your homemade metal drilling machine. To do this, disassemble the drill switch and install the start button in a location convenient for you.

That's all, actually. If you follow the above algorithm, assembling a drilling machine with your own hands will not be a problem for you.

Homemade machine based on an asynchronous motor

If you search carefully - in household you will most likely find a variety of electric motors from household appliances. The best choice for a metal drilling machine is an asynchronous motor, which is used in drum washing machines.

Be prepared for the fact that assembling such a machine will be somewhat more difficult. First of all, you will need a more massive stand that will absorb significant vibrations from the washing machine motor. To reduce them to a minimum, you need to install the motor closer to the rack and provide a reliable frame. But please note that close location motor relative to the stand complicates the design, since it will be necessary to mount a pulley with a transmission. When assembling such a unit, adjust all parts and components as accurately as possible. The performance characteristics of the machine will directly depend on this.

To assemble the pulley, we need a gear, a hexagon, a metal ring for clamping, 2 bearings and 2 pieces of pipe, one of which is with an internal thread.

The movable structure is made of a hexagon, a tube, a ring, bearings and a threaded tube where the cartridge will be fixed. The hexagon acts as a transmission element onto which the pulley is placed.

To be sure of the reliability of the connection with the hexagon, it makes sense to make cuts at the ends of the tube onto which the ring and bearings are placed. Make sure that all parts of our structure are fixed as securely as possible to avoid destruction due to vibration.

Now we begin to create the control system of our unit. To do this, we use a pipe with cuts and a gear, the teeth of which should easily penetrate into the cuts we made.

To make them as accurate as possible, first apply plasticine to the pipe and run the gear along it. Please note that the ladder pipe must have a height corresponding to the lifting height of the cartridge. The axle with a hexagon must be pressed into a pipe with pre-made slots.

As you understand, the design described above is not easy to manufacture, and not every master is able to bring such a “project” to completion. If you are not sure that you have the skills to assemble such a drilling machine, give preference to the first design based on an electric drill.

conclusions

We have given two of the most successful examples making drilling machines with your own hands. Since the information presented is of a general nature, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the drawings of such equipment in more detail in order to avoid inaccuracies and various types of errors during the manufacture of the unit.

Practice shows that experienced master easily cope with an ambitious task, such as creating a metal drilling machine on your own. All that remains is to wish you good luck.