Homemade buggy car. Drawings for building a buggy

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Installation

Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, scooter, moped, or motorcycle, but when it comes to a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. Making this type of transport is not difficult, you only need a little desire. You just need to successfully purchase a 125 cm3 scooter engine.

DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.

Buggy manufacturing process

Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using ordinary water pipes of different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be connected using conventional electric welding.

It is optimal to take regular 10-inch wheels from a scooter. The suspension is independent pendulum, with shock absorbers in both directions. In a regular go-kart, control is done through the steering rack; in a homemade buggy there will be no steering rack. You just need to find steering rods from the Zhiguli “Kopeyka”. Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.

Step 2. Differential
To have reverse gear and differential in the buggy, you need to use a gear axle from the Ant scooter; it has everything we need. To reduce engine vibration, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive should be located in accordance with the center of the pendulum mounting, thus making it possible to adjust the chain tension.

Step 3: Installing the Brakes
Brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. There are brake drums on each axle shaft and they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When you press the pedal, they activate the brake pads on each drum.

Step 4. Last stages assemblies
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy; it can easily be adjusted to suit any height. We put everything in its place and enjoy using this homemade product.

Since today is a day off, I’ll try to write an easy article; you know, I’ve had a topic for this for a long time. For example, several of my readers, after a post about “,” asked me the following question - what is a BUGGY? Others asked the question - is it possible to assemble them with your own hands? Today I decided to collect everything in one article and dot all the i’s. Here we go …

BUGGY - These are lightweight cars, often made by hand, used mainly for driving on rough terrain or off-road. Often used in autocross. They are distinguished by high cross-country ability and a durable chassis; they often have a motorcycle engine.

As you understand, these are also “spontaneous” (not assembly line) variations of cars that were made mainly for cross-country motorsports. Now there are specialized companies that produce them. However, there are also folk craftsmen who produce with their own hands.

History of appearance

The first such cars appeared in the USA around 1950. If you try to translate the word “BUGGY”, the literal translation will mean “stroller”, “convertible”, “small trolley”. However, this is not where the cars got their name!

The thing is that in 1950, the USA simply filled the “trophy” VOLKSWAGEN “BUG” (or as we now all know it, “BEETLE”). Of course, work cars were used for their intended purpose, they were simply driven. However, there were also a lot of faulty cars, for example with a damaged body, but intact “internals”. It was precisely these cars that were dismantled, and instead of a mangled body, they installed a self-made frame, into which, as you understand, they mounted the engine, chassis, seats, etc. The cars turned out to be very light, and “transparent”, it was because of this lightness that they were nicknamed “BUGGY”, this is a diminutive of the word “BUG” - meaning “BUG”.

A little later, after a couple of decades, BUGGIES evolve, they begin to install turbocharged engines that develop power up to 200 hp, special bodies are made, this makes it possible to achieve very high speeds, which involuntarily attracted many spectators, often entire auto shows unfolded. Popularity grew simply quadratically around the world.

This is how another generation of lightweight cars was born, in which autocross racers now compete; in general, this is a whole industry.

Structure

As before, BUGGIES now also have a lightweight frame body, essentially durable pipes that are welded in a certain sequence. However, in fairness, it is worth noting that now metal is being replaced by even lighter structures - made of carbon. The frame must be as strong as possible to withstand all other loads. The rest of the components are hung on the body as the main part. Namely, the engine, transmission, suspension, and of course the interior.

Now, by the way, there are options for closed cars; sides are made of carbon fiber that cover either the driver or the necessary parts (for example, the engine), so you can drive on dirty roads, and not just on dry ones.

The layout of the BUGGY is also specific and remains so almost to this day. It was the Volkswagen Beetle that, with its structure, determined the design for many years to come.

As we know, the engine is located at the rear, and there is also no cooling radiator, which turned out to be very popular for such motocross cars.

But the most important component is the suspension; it is in the BUGGY that it is considered the most passable and the most durable. Moreover, the ground clearance can reach as much as 500 mm, which is simply a lot!

As you understand, such vehicles can be made with your own hands; in principle, there is nothing difficult for a knowledgeable person.

Nowadays such cars are even assembled with motorcycle engines. Of course, you are unlikely to do it yourself without special training; specialists are required, but if you involve them, this is roughly what can happen, watch the video.

The BUGGIES are leaving...?

However, now, the era of these light SUVs is slowly fading. And the appearance of ATVs is to blame for this. They are the focus of many autocross spectators right now.

However, BUGGIES are not dead, they are now being modified, so other engines (already with water cooling) began to be used. Many suspension parts have been migrated from SUVs, and improvised cabins, bumpers and other body elements made of fiberglass are also appearing.

Competitions are also held, and now they can be divided into several types:

Beach

Rally raids

Crawlers

There is no longer the same structure; BUGGIES can be either front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive. Nowadays there are competitions for “climbing” rocks, for example, a route is chosen in which there are a lot of large stones, the car must drive along it without falling off, and also without getting stuck. Very spectacular! A small example of competition.

It should be noted that due to their lightness of structure and high maneuverability, they have gained popularity in many armies of the world. Even in Russia there are such developments, the main task of transporting troops over long distances over rough terrain (especially deserts).

Also used to patrol the captured perimeter, sometimes a light machine gun is installed.

This is such an interesting car, I think you liked the article, read our AUTOBLOG.

The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models, which are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load withstand, etc. Let's consider different designs as power increases.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

From a motorcycle
From OKI
From a Cossack

From a motorcycle

A light small buggy can be assembled based on an IZH or Ural motorcycle engine. It will weigh 300 kilograms and reach a speed of up to 80 km/h. In this design, motorcycle parts and small cars are used as much as possible.

From OKI

An excellent budget donor for a buggy is OKA. The hubs are light in weight. The liquid-cooled engine is protected from overheating and is not as noisy as a motorcycle engine. The steering rack has a sufficient safety margin for its class. A buggy based on the OKI has greater cross-country ability than a production car.

From a Cossack

Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, is essentially already ready-made option buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for mounting the engine backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axes. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential), changing the right and left side in some places. And to make a special gear shift drive, since the gearbox rod rotates from the driver to the rear bumper, and this complicates the rocker system.

Video of the process of building a buggy from Zaporozhets

The shock absorbers, as well as the hubs for the buggy, can be left “original”. But you will have to make the suspension arms yourself, more on that below.

For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there is no unnecessary problems with electronics. Although this is a matter of personal preference, the design does not change. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. To drive the rear wheels, front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car holds more than 300 kg.

For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from a VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to a cut-off axle from a “classic”, for example a VAZ 2106. rear axle the pins are fixed without the ability to rotate. And the front ones are like on a car. To ensure uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to lock the differential of the power unit.

With this arrangement, it is worth considering that maximum speed will decrease by the amount of the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transmit rotation to the wheels not directly, but through another differential. This makes it possible to use wheels large diameter without overloading the motor.

Homemade cars mean a homemade frame. For the supporting frame of the buggy, you can use ordinary water pipes, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square, 30 - 50 mm in diameter. Upper part the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to consider that in the event of a rollover, the frame must withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact. This applies to buggies of any class.

To design you must have:

Pipe bender
Bulgarian
Welding machine
Drill

It is advisable to keep scraps of boards and bars on hand, because there is always a need to lift some elements of the frame and fix them in this position.

Begin making the frame on a level area. The pipes, bent according to the drawings, are first welded, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not move, as metal tension occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.

Front suspension

The suspension has proven itself well on long wishbones shaped like the letter A, it provides large wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of the shock absorber with the spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.

The pendulum arm is subject to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay special attention to the materials and quality of welds when assembling this part.

To reduce wear on silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers need to be designed as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.

A nuance that may subsequently upset you is the limited travel of the lower ball joint pin in its socket. In other words, the pin may be restricting the suspension's upward or downward travel in a place other than expected. This needs to be checked at the design stage.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal or transverse.

wishbone

You can take the front suspension, which is used on many Japanese cars, as an example. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second arm goes forward to the center and serves as a jib, taking on the load when the car jerks.

Trailing arm

To successfully use the trailing arms of the suspension, a transverse jet thrust, otherwise the buggy will not hold the road well. The silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than those on the “classic” transverse rods.

If you decide to build a buggy at home, your time will not be wasted. Even if nothing happens, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the operation of the main components of the car. And if it works out, you will have a unique car.

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What material is suitable for use in a homemade buggy or ATV? What if you want to participate in competitions?

Thanks for the material Nitro

- Is it possible to use square pipes?

- what cross-section of pipes should be?

- Is it possible to use seam pipes from the regular building materials market?

- how to bend the frame pipes?

- Is it possible to make a frame without using a pipe bender - just weld the frame from pipe sections?

the answers are as follows:
The frame must be constructed from seamless cold-formed seamless pipes. The material must have certain strength characteristics.

In the “bible” of the buggy builder (Nazarov M.M. “Special cross-country cars - buggies”, Moscow, DOSAAF 1980) it is written - “The main safety bars are made of cold-drawn steel seamless pipes. Their minimum dimensions depend on the class and weight of the vehicle. For classes 0 and 1 with engine displacement up to 350 and 500 cm3 - 35x2 mm; for grades 2-15: with a weight of up to 700 kg - 42x2.5 mm; from 700 to 1,200 kg - 48x2.5 mm; over 1,200 - 57x3 mm.”

Taking into account the fact that the pipes are made of of this material are expensive and have limited weldability, then you can take other pipes. The most suitable ones are seamless, seamless, cold-deformed pipes made of steel 20. You can buy such pipes at large metal depots; in Moscow you can buy pipes at Metal-Service. They have almost everything there and sell it at retail.

For such buggies as “Hurricane”, ST2, such classes as minibuggy, go kart, the use of profile electric welded pipes square or rectangular section. They are convenient to process in a garage, but you need to remember that a square pipe works differently in torsion, compression and bending, unlike a pipe round section(compromise material is not such a complicated thing). But, as a rule, you want to ride and not achieve any records, so such tubes are actively used for buggies - especially abroad. Oddly enough, but the buggy is DIY class - (do it yorself - do it yourself).

Regarding seam pipes, I know some people use them. IN major cities It is possible to buy what you need, but outside these cities it is quite problematic - you need to buy a large batch. If there is nothing other than seam pipes, you can choose a pipe with a thicker wall. By the way, there were cases when, at off-road races, individual athletes built frames from ordinary water pipe with a thick wall - to meet minimum weight requirements. The main arches for the buggy must be solid - after all, they affect the safety of the pilot (and passengers). the remaining sections of the frame can be welded from pieces of pipes. If welded correctly, the strength will be sufficient.

There are now many Chinese pipe benders in any construction market. they are all designed for water pipes (their sizes depend on the remote control - nominal diameter). the second feature of such pipe benders is that the ovality of the pipe in the center of the bend will be greater than that required by sports regulations - if the regulations do not restrain it, you can take it and bend it.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

From a motorcycle
From OKI
From a Cossack

From a motorcycle

From OKI

From a Cossack

Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, is, in fact, a ready-made version of a buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for mounting the engine backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axes. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential), swapping the right and left sides. And to make a special gear shift drive, since the gearbox rod rotates from the driver to the rear bumper, and this complicates the rocker system.

Video of the process of building a buggy from Zaporozhets

The shock absorbers, as well as the hubs for the buggy, can be left “original”. But you will have to make the suspension arms yourself, more on that below.

For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with the electronics. Although this is a matter of personal preference, the design does not change. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. To drive the rear wheels, front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car holds more than 300 kg.

For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from a VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to a cut-off axle from a “classic”, for example, a VAZ 2106. On the rear axle, the axles are fixed without the ability to turn. And the front ones are like on a car. To ensure uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to lock the differential of the power unit.

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Homemade cars mean a homemade frame. For the supporting frame of the buggy, you can use ordinary water pipes, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square, 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to consider that in the event of a rollover, the frame must withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact. This applies to buggies of any class.

To design you must have:

Pipe bender
Bulgarian
Welding machine
Drill

It is advisable to keep scraps of boards and bars on hand, because there is always a need to lift some elements of the frame and fix them in this position.

Front suspension

The suspension on long wishbones in the shape of the letter A has proven itself well; it provides large wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of the shock absorber with the spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.

The pendulum arm is subject to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay special attention to the materials and quality of welds when assembling this part.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal or transverse.

wishbone

Trailing arm

To successfully use the trailing arms of the suspension, lateral thrust is required, otherwise the buggy will have poor road holding. The silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than those on the “classic” transverse rods.

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My friend suggested making a buggy, a real one in the right way smile.gif After thinking a little, I agreed to his provocation. My friend purchased 99.9% of the parts for the buggy, and I helped with welding, ideas, tools, space and, most importantly, company (I can’t do all this alone)

So here is the uprooted motor with gearbox. The heart so to speak...

Start. So, as usual, the soul demanded rational decisions, therefore, the buggy from the Soviet magazine “Modelist Constructor” was taken as a basis, it was called AB-82, and had most of the spare parts from the world’s kindest motorized vehicle, ZAZ 968, i.e. Zaporozhets.
For some time we found tools, did a mega-cleanout in the garage and looked for a donor. Tools (the most necessary) were found. You can work in the garage (cleaned up, made the lights, etc.) Purchased a ZAZ 968, red rear-engine coupe.
So we chased the ghost around the city, it drives around, it’s alive. They cut it up in the garage (there is no photo of the cut-up, apparently we were very carried away by the process)
We arrived at the garage, cleaned up, made the lights, it seemed like decent, more or less working conditions... We bought ordinary iron profiles at a metal depot, ( profile pipe) And they began to sculpt welding machine means... Art

The art grew, first the bottom was welded, then the drawings were 90% followed. The frame was made a little larger than in the drawings.

Somewhere along the way, a rear suspension appeared. These are original Zaporozhye levers with hubs, and on original “ears”, carefully removed from the donor body in advance. The opportunity arose to move into my garage, which we did. We worked hard to create light, order and beauty; nothing comes for free.

As it was

How did it happen?
Pay attention to the high-tech technology of painting walls (we thought about making them lighter, like beauty and light is reflected) The technology is like this, one paints chaotically in one place, the second in another, the paint suddenly runs out (sellers are such sellers... they promised that for the entire garage 10 layers is enough for a bucket... but really...) and that’s the end of the event))

The front control arms and suspension were made.
The lever pipes are rods from the rear suspension of a classic VAZ. With silent blocks.
The ears on the frame for silents are homemade from 2mm metal.
The ball mounts on the bottom are a piece of the VAZ front arm.
Ball vase of course.
On top there is a relay tip of a vase instead of a ball one.
The bushing for adjusting the camber is welded into the upper arm (the bushing was made by a turner)
The turner also made a spacer for the upper ball joint (they have different cones)
Initially, IZHP 4 shock absorbers were installed, but this is too weak an option.
Later they changed it.
So far there are some tires to roll around.

The suspension, it must be said, was not welded from scratch. The kinematics of the levers are measured in such a way that the contact patch of the tire with the road is always maximum. Checking the suspension travel. This is already a very interesting moment when the structure can already be rolled somehow! Joy like 7 year old children.

Fiery heart, engine i.e. Let's try it on. The engine and gearbox mounts remain factory, with minor modifications.

A general photo with a suspension and a homemade bucket made of 0.8 metal according to drawings from our wonderful Internet (what would we do without it?!)

Again, erotic fantasies on themes with a roof... Design and engineering (from the word engineer or fig?))

Time has passed. We chose how beautiful it would be.

Space gravitsap. The shot in between is meaningless and cool.

By the way, here's a closer look at the motor mounts. Just in case)

We started making pedals, fastening tanks and cylinders. Alas high-quality photos there is no process left, either written down or in between, like here. But the main thing is there is gas)) The steering rack is also fixed offhand. This moment is adjusted for a long time so that the balls in the steering rack are in a certain place relative to the suspension mounting lines. In short, so that you steer the car, and not it steers you over the bumps. Steering rack OKA (1111) VAZ 2107 steering joints, very comfortable and for safety + VAZ classic steering ends.

The first descents from the hill, the steering wheel is on a stick with duct tape, there are no seats, there are no brakes, there is nothing... Don’t do this, it’s dangerous for everything)))) An ocean of joy, of course. The front wheels are normal, VAZ, the rear wheels are ZAZ (the VAZ is a temporary dummy for a photo, in reality only the ZAZ wheels are on the ZAZ hub)

Bottom. Because it's dangerous to ride without it. Sheet of metal, 0.8 in my opinion. Initially it was attached with self-tapping screws with a drill, but as practice has shown, they are not suitable for these purposes, they fall out from vibration, and are often cut off by the ground when jumping and so on. And then there’s the mystery of who will assemble them with wheels... Later, the bottom was welded with spots. By the way, from the start the project was cooked with electrodes. And with the move to a new home, the machine was created only with semi-automatic CO2 and 0.8mm wire. More convenient, faster, lighter, this type of welding has a lot of advantages.

After the first tests, hopes for compact, lightweight shock absorbers dissolved. We put two of these on each side, it got better, we rode them for a while, but not the same. By the way, out of the corner of your eye you can see that there is a throttle cable, clutch and brake reservoirs, brake pipes and a high-quality steering rack. These kinds of moments require a lot of thought and creativity, so we forgot about the photo. There is linoleum on the floor of the buggy)) It seems like it was temporarily cultivated.

My brother made this mini-buggy for his son with his own hands.

The idea of building it had been brewing in my head for a long time, but never got around to it. And just at home there was a disassembled 4T Chinese scooter with a 125 cm 3 engine. It was this engine that became the heart of the buggy.

The buggy frame is welded from pipes of different sections and profiles, mostly round water pipes. All wheels are 10 inches.

The front suspension is independent pendulum, with one lever and shock absorber on each side.

The steering is straight-line, without a steering rack or column, like a kart, which makes it a little harder to control. Steering rods from a VAZ 2101 car, with the ability to adjust the length.

The rear suspension is pendulum type and is attached to the frame via silent blocks. On each side of the pendulum there is one shock absorber from a scooter.

In order for the buggy to have a differential and reverse gear, a gear axle from an Ant scooter was used, which has both a differential and a reverse gear.

Axle shafts are attached to the bridge and pass through housing bearings. At the end of the axle shafts, hubs are attached to a smooth connection without any keys, and wheel rims are attached to them.

In order not to load the rear suspension and protect the engine from constant shaking, the engine is attached to the frame, and the drive is carried out through an intermediate shaft, which is located coaxially with the center of the pendulum mounting so that the chain tension can be adjusted.

Brakes are on the rear wheels only.

A brake drum is attached to each axle shaft, on top of which is a brake band attached to a strip of metal.

The brakes are activated by a pedal through cables, taken from the Zhiguli handbrake, with a separate cable for each drum. There is a cable going to the gas pedal from the carburetor.

January 14, 2018 Article

DIY buggy from NIVA

I really wanted to do it DIY buggy from the fields on all-wheel drive, moreover, according to the plan, it should be lighter than the standard and have a fully independent suspension. There are several buggies where both front suspensions from Niva are used as suspension. I consider this a half-measure, since the entire front suspension assembly weighs as much as 130 kg. My fist after weighing is 2.4 kg, Niva’s is 6! The only thing that needs to be done is to preserve the layout of the units from the donor - the most standard spare parts.

Everything else is my fantasy at someone else’s expense. The main purpose of the car is fishing and trips to the forest. UAZ tires, Cordiant Off Road on overcooked Niva wheels. 1.7 engine, 4-speed gearbox, cardan shafts, RPM - everything is standard.

After I agreed with the client on the general concept of the machine, I had to make several sketches on paper and transfer everything to the computer. I work in AutoCAD and the ultra-modern paper-pencil system:

Some hardware:

Since there was no welding table, I had to make a base from what was at hand - a rolling table and two channels, which were brought into the plane and made it possible to make an even frame. The difference in the suspension mounting points (when measuring diagonals) is 2-3 mm, although in reality you didn’t have to bother with that.

Welded base:

So, the base is ready. Now we need to cook the main arcs and pipes for the suspension:

I welded this car in the workshop of some restorers I know, so I had to drag the frame several times and re-align everything to the level. With constant measurements of all dimensions, the roof moved to the right by 5 mm, but these are minor things:

I decided to lengthen the suspension arms as much as possible to increase wheel travel. To do this, it was necessary to reduce the distance between the pipes on which the levers are attached and increase the track to 1550 mm. The CV shafts had to be made to order. To prevent the suspension mounting points from going away, I made the brackets for attaching the arms so that they at the same time act as conductors for fixing the frame pipes:

The tunnel was made with installed units, at the same time I had to think about how to correctly place the tubes so that they do not interfere with unscrewing the nuts. All units can be removed quite simply.
The total weight of the frame is 156 kg, it was made from that pipe, of which there was a lot. What does not apply to power frame it was possible to weld from a pipe of a smaller cross-section, so after welding I sat and figured out how much weight the frame could lose - it gained 51 kg:

The gas tank is classic. This is allowed to be done dashboard entirely from VAZ devices:

Sheet body kit, extremely simple:

Mounting the RPM in a cross-country manner - as our buggies do on all-wheel drive buggies. Since nivovods have an incorrect understanding of physics and are locked into a standard body, they break the body quite often. If you make a metal housing as described, then the gearbox housing can easily withstand 400 forces!

When using spare parts cut on a CNC plasma cutter, there is no need for milling machine. This kind of fist can be made very inexpensively and with any configuration. This is the rear fist, the base is a piece of DN100 water pipe and plates from a plasma cutter:

Using two shock absorbers at different distances from the swing point of the lever itself, we get different forces on the piston, different movements and slightly different characteristics shock absorbers. It turns out that the characteristic of one shock absorber is slightly shifted relative to the other:

Suspension:

Jig for welding the front knuckle:

The fist itself:

Rear suspension assembly:

Ready chassis

Wheel alignment can also be done on the knee. All you need is a piece of rope and an elastic band from a hand truck - she pulls the rope tight:

Dashboard:

As R. Kolesnikov (a former pilot from the Gazprom team) always says, if an all-wheel drive buggy rolls easily by hand, then the wheel alignment angles are correct. We managed to get within the required limits, and even taking into account the fact that the wheel alignment is made on the knee, the chassis rolls quite easily. All that remains is to make the body kit, connect the electrics and start it.

Master: Andrey “Nitro” Anikin

Especially for jeepstroy!
www.izikastom.info
www.ska-buggy.ru
+7-926-181-56-08
Skype - Nitro_LAB
ICQ - 422-527-340

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