What is a device for sharpening knives with your own hands? Homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands: diagram, instructions, manufacturing features Mandrel for sharpening knives on a sharpener

Any knife, even the best one, requires careful care. If you neglect this, then over time it may stop cutting. Therefore, it is important to choose the right knife sharpening device. Currently, you can find a huge number of stones and sharpeners in stores.

Types of sharpening stones

There are mainly three types of sharpening stones:

Features of sharpening various knives

To sharpen Japanese knives yourself, you must have sufficient skills in this area. After all, Japanese steel is very fragile, so it requires special care. Manufacturers recommend sharpening such knives on Japanese water stones. It is advisable to use several stones with different degrees of grain at the same time, which will help maintain the sharpness of the knives for a long time. for a long time. Of course, this process is not easy and requires patience.

But to sharpen a kitchen knife, everyone is used to using a special sharpener. With its help you can quickly and conveniently make any knife sharp. Of course, no housewife would want to use several stones for sharpening. However, thanks to their use, the knife will cut much better.

Conditions for sharpening

Choosing and purchasing a device for sharpening knives is only half the problem. It is necessary to ensure that the knife remains sharp for several months. To do this, you should choose a favorable angle for sharpening. Some believe that the smaller the angle between the edges of the blade, the sharper the tool will be. But this is not entirely true, since such an action can lead to the fact that the knife will soon lose its cutting qualities again. That is, the sharper it is after sharpening, the faster it will become dull. In this case, a pattern can be identified: what smaller angle, at which the knife was sharpened, the less strength the cutting edge of the blade will have.

Sharpening task

The main objective of this operation is to restore the sharpness of the blade. At the same time, the correct sharpening angle must be maintained. Therefore, we can say that in its process the angle that was set earlier is restored. This angle must fully comply with all technological standards. The task is completed if the knife can be used to cut the material for which it is intended.

What problems may arise during the work process?

Of course, choosing the right angle for sharpening is difficult. Moreover, such a process is difficult if there is no special device for sharpening knives. After all, if you hold the blade with your hands, it will be very difficult to achieve a uniform sharpening with right angles. To resolve this issue, you can use homemade device for sharpening knives. Moreover, making it at home is not difficult. And although there are currently a huge number of different sharpening devices, their design is not particularly complex, so it will take little time to manufacture such a device.

How can you sharpen a knife at home?

One of the main tasks of every man around the house is sharpening knives. Making your own device is not only convenient, but also effective. In this case, you can independently make a device that will resemble the factory one. You can also use some available tools:

• Hacksaw.
• Wooden block.
• Chisel.
• Sandpaper.
• Plane.
• File and the like.

In some villages, it is also practiced to sharpen knives on the foundation. It is made from cement-sand mortar and has a granular surface. Of course, this method cannot be called an example to follow. But if you urgently need to sharpen a blade, and there is no device for sharpening knives, then this is a relatively good option.

Why are drawings needed?

Knife sharpeners are inexpensive. Nevertheless, many owners want to make a device for sharpening knives with their own hands. Such a device will be of higher quality than a store-bought one, since in the process of its creation only natural materials. In order for the production of a sharpener to be completed successfully, it is necessary to carry out the process according to the proposed plan:

• Purchase or make your own drawings for clamping jaws. It is very important to draw the future design in detail. Particular attention should be paid to small details.
• Draw a drawing of the left and right stops, which are necessary to ensure that the assembled structure does not fall apart.
• Prepare a drawing of the guide. There are several nuances here.

Guide drawing: features

To make the guide the right size, you should:

As you know, there are two main types of knife sharpening: single-sided and double-sided. Naturally, the methods of work in one and another case differ from each other. When working with knives, the following factors should be taken into account:

Sharpening planing knives

Sharpening planer knives is a rather complex process. To complete it, you need to master some knowledge and skills. A device for sharpening planing knives is difficult to find on sale. Therefore, many improve their cutting qualities using conventional sharpeners. But for this you need to acquire a modern low-speed water-cooled sharpener. To easily sharpen a planer knife, you should find a smooth and ungreasy stone used in this area. It is better to use a water stone. You can find a sharpener in car workshops, where they can sharpen any blade for an additional fee.

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

Such sharpening devices wide range are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term operation of a knife, the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
• cutting knives hard materials- 30–40 degrees.

Without a special tool, sharpen the blade under the right angle difficult. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process there are special devices, which you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.

Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.

For self-made For an abrasive stone, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Sandpaper of different grits should be glued to the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts, otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• set of nuts and bolts;
• a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
• needle file

Instead of grinding machine You can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
3. Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The end holder must be with through hole under the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is very convenient device, with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

Stages of work:

The sharpening angle on such a device adjustable using bar and thumb, which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Every man in the house would benefit from a convenient sharpening machine. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape.

To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The basic rule in this process is to maintain a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches left on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. This may damage its side surface or the blade.

There are homemade devices for sharpening knives different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.

The operating principle of such a device as manual machine To sharpen knives with your own hands, you need to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.

In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a pair of bots with wings. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top vertical stand, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle chosen is half that at which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives It is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.

Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.

To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. IN in this case it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Covers the thread. A pair of paper clips serve to secure the guide stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or jointer, I've probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife

To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.

Sharpening machine jointing knives do it yourself consists of:

• faceplates;
• table;
• engine;
• vacuum cleaner;
• casing.

The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees full and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Anyone will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

Main stages of device manufacturing

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.

For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the engine under the base of the faceplate is not a requirement. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. Cause high speed Drilling a hole lies in good sharpening of the knives and correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what professional sharpening was. In most cases, sharpening was performed using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?

To make a device such as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on a knife that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles cutting chamfer. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device is suitable.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To make this device you need to find door canopy with minimal backlash, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes for knives are drilled in the shoulders. non-standard type. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen your planer knives yourself. To make sharpening equipment at home you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

A knife holder can be made from wooden block. Made through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen knives with a belt grinder or a large block. If the latter is not available, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution will be the use of metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.

IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool.

Important! Only blades with to a certain extent hardening If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount - good sharpening are expensive.

By the way, there are different opinions about what the knife sharpening device is called. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...

These definitions may refer to the same thing, or various products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was easy.

Initially, I did not plan to write a review, but after asking the opinion of the Muskovites, I decided that it would be useful and published it. At the time of writing, the part was already installed in the unit. Therefore, there will be no separate weighing or photographing of the purchased part. I can only say that its quality is quite worthy for this venture.

By the way, in Russian it is called a hinged head (as the review progresses, I will call it that). Further, all photographs will be already installed in place. I will not remove the photos as spoilers, since they are a direct part of the review. All sizes are arbitrary, so I won’t post them. Anyone who likes to make things with their own hands or who is just interested is welcome.

This design was taken as a sample:

The reason for writing this review, as well as for the production of the described device, was the numerous reviews of various types of sharpeners posted on this site. Of course, you could simply buy one of the reviewed devices and use it, but the quality of the Chinese clones leaves much to be desired, and the prices for good devices exceed all reasonable limits. All these circumstances pushed me to make a more or less high-quality sharpener myself.

The criteria for the future craft were as follows: low cost and availability of consumables ( abrasive materials), minimal financial costs, reliable design, the ability to easily disassemble the sharpener for convenient storage and quickly bring it into working condition. In order to fulfill the first point, it was decided to make a device using sandpaper. Yes, many will say stones are better and so on, but for home purposes sandpaper is quite enough for me, especially since you can buy it at the nearest hardware store. Plus, if you prefer stone, you can easily modify the design to use it.

I will say right away that minor turning work will be necessary during production. There is no complicated turning in the manufacturing process, so any turner who just has hands can cope with this task. Although I myself am a turner, I don’t have a machine and I don’t work by profession. Therefore, I had to contact the nearest turning shop. I think in almost any city there is an organization that has a turner, and if not, then it’s sad.

I decided to start manufacturing by selecting steel rods that will serve as a rod and a stand (the photo below will clearly show it). To do this, we purchased (for 100 rubles) two front struts from a VAZ 2109 at the nearest car disassembly. We cut them with a grinder and remove the rods from them, as shown in the figure below. Be careful of the oil inside the racks. Everything else except small springs can be thrown away (I’ll show you below where we’ll use the springs).

You don’t have to use exactly the racks, you can come up with your own version, I just didn’t find anything else inexpensive. We measure the diameter of the rods, go to Aliexpress and, based on the diameter of our rods, order a hinged head. While the Chinese are packing and sending our parcel, while it is traveling through sorting points, we are making the remaining parts.

We make the first modifications using the extracted stocks. We simply cut off one rod on one side, and cut an M10 thread on the other (this will be a stand). In the second rod, we cut an M8 external thread on one side, an M8 internal thread on the other, both threads are approximately 10-14 millimeters long (this will be a rod). All these elements are ready.

Next we make a holder for sandpaper. Many people recommend using an aluminum square for this. I didn’t find anything suitable at home, and it turned out to be too expensive to buy. So I decided to do it differently. We take and cut a piece of cuttings from a shovel, rake, or simply buy it at a hardware store. It is desirable that the wood be hardwood (oak, beech).

At both ends of this workpiece we drill holes for cutting M8 threads. It is worth noting here that this procedure must be performed in lathe, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve alignment with our rod. And this is a necessary condition this design (will be clear below). When the holes are ready, we give our workpiece square shape so that the holes are in the center. Here you can use planer, plane or circular saw. I used the last method. The end result should look something like this:

We cut an M8 thread in the holes and screw the pins into it with glue. We will screw a handle onto these studs on one side of the holder and a rod on the other. The next step is to cut out strips from thick glass (5 millimeters), the width and length of which correspond to the width and length of our block. I had leftover glass, so I did it myself. I understand that not everyone has thick glass at home, so you can go to a glass shop and ask them to cut out the strips you need. I think they won’t charge much for such trimmings. We glue these strips to the timber.

The sandpaper holder is ready. We will glue it to glass.

Now we make the base.

Here, too, you can give free rein to your imagination in terms of choosing the material; it can be plastic, wood, steel and much more. In general, we use what is available. I chose to go 3mm thick (I just had some extra). We cut out the platform we need and attach (screw, weld) one support to it rigidly, and make the second removable.

I made the legs from scraps of tubing and a hexagon, and the platform is shown with the holes already prepared for the stand and knife clamp. That's it, the base is ready.

Next, we make a mechanism for adjusting the angle, combined with a hinge for the rod. For this purpose, the following were purchased: nuts, a bolt and a coupling. The threads of the nuts, bolt and coupling must match the threads of the joint head (indicated on the order page). Various types of wing nuts were also found at home.

Now we take the coupling, screw the bolt into it a little (for better retention when drilling) and drill the middle of one of the faces with a drill whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the stand. It is best to carry out this procedure in a vice, but if you don’t have one, you can clamp the workpiece between two bars. Like that:

When the hole is ready, cut off the screwed in bolt and lock it in any convenient way. I made goujon, but you can also boil it.

Now in the center of the resulting part we drill a hole and cut the thread. This thread must match the thread of the wing bolt (purchased or taken from the bins).

Yes, I forgot to say - while we were fiddling with all this stuff, our parcel had already arrived and was lying nearby. We take the articulated head out of it and screw it into the free side of the coupling, shortening the thread a little if necessary. The result should be a design like this:

This is our hinge joint. Now almost all the parts are ready, all that remains is to make the limiters and the clamp for the knife. I won’t describe the manufacture of the limiters, I’ll just say that purchased nuts were used and I’ll attach a picture, then everything will become clear:

It was decided to make the mount for the knife in the form of a clamp. Some people may find it more convenient to use magnets for this, but I tried it and didn’t like it. If you shape the cutting edge of a knife that has never been sharpened or is very dull, then you have to remove quite a lot of metal and apply good effort. Magnets don't always cope with this. Although this is my personal opinion. The process of making the clamp, unfortunately, was not filmed; I can only say that it was made from an old plane blade. It turned out like this:

When all the parts are ready, we’ll take care of the aesthetics – clean and paint. And finally, let's put it all together:

For better stability, we put rubber bands on the legs; I used cuttings of an oxygen hose. The springs under the stops are the ones that were inside the disassembled racks. Well, for compact storage we make a box from plywood scraps:

We putty it (optional) and paint it

To prevent the contents from rattling inside, you can cover it with foam rubber.

Let's calculate the costs:
Articulated head at the time of purchase (I don’t remember how much it cost in dollars) - 357.47 rubles.
Nuts, coupling, bolt – 38 RUR.
Welder services – 100 rubles.
Turner's work - 100 rubles.
Old racks - 100 rubles.
Total – 695.67 rub.
Everything else was found at home.

Pros - cheap, convenient, you can give free rein to your imagination when making it.
Disadvantages - it is quite labor-intensive, although those who like to do something with their own hands, I think, will appreciate the idea.
Criticism is welcome. If you forgot anything, ask.