Wood planing machine: diagram. Making a jointer on a wooden bed

Purchase industrial equipment It can be difficult for beginners. They are wondering how to do jointer with your own hands. There are quite a lot of design options. Everything is explained quite simply; wood processing devices are faced with different tasks. The manufacturing decision also depends largely on the intended use.

Carpentry related to construction requires equipment that allows processing long pieces (joists, rafters, purlins and other elements). When making furniture and interior parts, carpenters require a tool that ensures high quality of the processed surface. You have to work with products of limited length. The width also most often does not exceed 100...120 mm.

Types of jointing equipment

Homemade equipment for long planing of wood can be made using different starting tools:

1. Knife shafts - they are produced by separate factories as consumer goods. Three or four knives are installed on them, located at an angle of 90 or 120 ⁰. The working length of the shafts can range from 250 to 650 mm.
2. Electric planers are a ready-made tool equipped with devices for setting, removing chips, turning on and off. For table mounting there is a support frame, which can easily be adapted for a small machine in a home workshop.
3. Hand milling machines are power tools that provide high quality surface finishes. The productivity of the cutter is lower than that of the planing cutter. However, when processing wood, scuffing is practically eliminated. For hardwoods, the use of this type of device is indispensable.

Some craftsmen create small jointing machines that have small dimensions and mass. They can be transported to the site. Already on site, the equipment is installed on trestles. Then the required amount of work is completed.

Industrial installations are quite heavy; they use cast iron or duralumin casting. For homemade designs, they use rolled metal or wood.

Basic Ideas for DIY Designs

Do-it-yourself equipment has a number of advantages over industrial designs:

• The price is several times lower than that of purchased machines. The cost is determined only by the purchased materials and components.
• Light weight and the ability to quickly assemble or disassemble for storage in the workshop.
• Maintainability and possibility of modernization. Many craftsmen add certain options that they need when making certain types of parts.
• Options homemade installations provide for personal needs. They may have a long table or special stops that allow simultaneous processing in several planes.

There are also disadvantages that should be taken into account when performing work:

1. In addition to its advantages, limited mass also has disadvantages. The equipment is not stable; it must be attached to massive objects or provide additional fastening to the floor.
2. The electric drive power is designed to use a single-phase 220 V network. Homemade machine doesn't use heavy ones three-phase motors.
3. Materials are used that do not contain a significant margin of safety.

Purpose of the jointing machine

To know what is to be manufactured, you need to determine the range of tasks to be solved with the help of the designed and manufactured installation.

• More than 95% of the work involves flat planing wood pieces on one side. Through repeated processing, one plane is leveled. Then, leaning on the side surface, wood is selected from the workpiece on a surface located at an angle of 90⁰.
• To produce parts that fit together, quarters, grooves and protrusions are selected on a jointing machine.
• Processing of opposite sides occurs with a certain precision. To have parts having high accuracy, thicknessing machines are used. Their principle of operation is in many ways similar to jointing devices. There are also additional devices that can be installed on the basic equipment.

Equipment based on planing shafts

More often DIY craftsmen use a knife shaft. It is made of steel 40X or HVS. The strength of the metal is quite high, the hardness is at the level of HRC 42...48, which allows processing using metal-cutting tools.

General form blade shaft:

Knife shaft structure: 1 – cylindrical shaft; 2 – support bearings; 3 – knife; 4 – clamping (wedge) strip; 5 – clamping (fixing) bolts; 6 – spring.

Special grooves are machined on the cylindrical shaft 1; a wedge strip 4 and a knife 3 are installed in them (high-speed tool steel is used). Springs 6 installed in the internal groove allow the knife 3 to be pulled out. Fixation in a given position relative to the center of the shaft is performed with fixing bolts 5.

On the frame, shaft 1 is mounted on bearings 2 (usually cast housings are used). Choose a design of the bearing assembly that is protected from moisture and sawdust. Then long-term operation of the shaft is guaranteed.

Options for installing knives on the shaft: 1 – adjusting screw; 2 – knife; 3 – thrust nut; 4 – fixing bolt; 5 – wedge (fixing) strip.

Sometimes other types of knife shaft designs are used. Each manufacturer has its own designs and manufacturing preferences.

Attention! To secure the knife in a certain position, you need to unscrew the bolt. It acts in the groove space. This solution is due to the fact that when vibration occurs, bolted connections tend to come loose. The decision was dictated by the safety of the product.

The process of planing a board: 1 – guide bar; 2 – board being processed; 3 – feeding surface; 4 – receiving surface; 5 – knife shaft.

The jointing process occurs in a certain sequence.

1. The workpiece is placed on the feeding surface of the table.
2. It is pressed against the guide bar.
3. The knife shaft removes part of the wood layer (usually 0.3...0.7 mm).
4. The processed part is moved to the receiving surface of the table.

The distance between the supply and receiving surfaces corresponds to the thickness of the cut layer.

V-belt drive in a jointing machine: 1 – knife shaft; 2 – electric motor; 3 – machine body; 4 – tension spring; 5 – hole for the pipeline from the chip remover (vacuum cleaner).

The rotation drive from the electric motor to the knife shaft is performed using a V-belt drive. The linear speed of the belt V of the belt reducer is determined by the formula:

V = (π·D·n)/60, m/s, where D is the diameter of the drive pulley, m; n – engine shaft rotation speed, rpm; π = 3.14.

The belt type (profile) is selected depending on the speed and power transmitted. Tables are used for this.

Determination of the belt profile depending on the amount of transmitted power and linear speed of the V-belt:

At home, motors up to 5 kW are used. It is advisable to use motors operating at a frequency of 2880 rpm. Then the quality of the treated surface will be higher. When selecting pulleys, they try to create a step-up gearbox. But with the help of pulleys, it is possible to increase the rotation speed of the knife shaft by 1.5...2.5 times compared to the speed of the electric motor.

Formation of roughness when planing a board:

If you move a workpiece with high feed at a low speed of rotation of the knife shaft, then a wave-like roughness can be observed on the machined surface.

The manufacturer faces the following tasks:

• A rigid frame of the machine made from an angle or profile pipe is required.
• A fixed support for the feeding surface is required.
• An adjustable support must be installed on the receiving surface. When adjusting, it is moved relative to the feeding surface.
• For production, sheet steel with a thickness of more than 6 mm is used.
• The shaft is mounted on bearings housed in special housings. Fixed on the frame.
• The electric motor is suspended on the lower support and is additionally equipped with a tension spring.

Making a knife shaft jointer

The main parts were made for the manufacture of the machine. For them, a rolled isosceles angle of 40·40 mm was used. Can be used profile pipe 40·20 with a wall of 2 mm, then the parts will be assembled by welding (a jig or a slipway is required).

Components purchased:

1. M12 studs, 120 mm long – 16 pcs.
2. M12 nuts (32 pcs.) and washers – 16 pcs.
3. Additional M10 bolts, Ø10 spring washers and M10 nuts – 52 sets.
4. Electric motor power 3.5 kW (2880 rpm).
5. Knife shaft 200 mm long with a set of knives and auxiliary fasteners.
6. Angle 40·40 mm (6.8 m).
7. Strip 4·40 mm (1.1 m).
8. Pulley block for the motor and a pulley for the shaft.
9. V-belt.
10. Wires and starting fittings.

After preparing the parts, they are painted with a primer. You can start assembling.

Machine assembly

All parts of the future machine are laid out on the workbench. We have to assemble them and get a workable design at the finish line.

The upper and lower frames are assembled from the corners. Corners used here:

• 450 mm long (4 pcs.), Ø 10.5 mm holes (4 holes) drilled in them.
• 550 mm long (5 pcs.), they also have Ø 10.5 mm holes drilled in them (4 holes in 4 corners and 2 holes in one).
• 220 mm long (2 pcs.), 4 holes drilled in them. (Ø 10.5 mm), not 2 of them each for installing the knife shaft.

Corners for mounting the working roller are mounted on the upper frame. In addition to the holes for assembling the machine frame, Ø12.5 mm holes were drilled in the corners for mounting tables (feeder and receiver).

Before drilling, table plates were applied and markings were made.

Nuts are screwed onto the studs and washers are installed.

Knife roller, knives and wedge strips are located nearby. This shaft has three grooves for installing cutting tools. There is a strip nearby; an electric motor will be installed on it.

Table plates. There are three of them. Two are used for the jointing part, the remaining long element is used for the circular table.

For the planing part, two identical plates with a thickness of 10 mm are used. Their size is 220·300 mm. On one side, each has an oblique cut at an angle of 45⁰.

Spatial assembly. Vertical elements are being installed. Each unit is secured with two bolts.

The result is a rigid spatial structure. In the future, it will be placed on an additional table to make it convenient to work with lumber.

The roller is mounted on pre-prepared supports.

Fastening is carried out with bolts through the bearing housing supports.

Pins are screwed into the table plates. They are threaded M12 (length 9.5 mm).

The technology for installing tables is quite simple. One of the nuts determines the installation height relative to the frame, the other fixes the given position. The washers prevent loosening.

All plates are installed on the machine. It looks like it's working.

Now it's time to place the knives. First, wedge strips are installed. They are inserted into the grooves from the end.

All that remains is to install the knives. In the future, they will have to be adjusted in height so that the wood is sampled in the same size.

The knives adjusted to the height are fixed with bolts. They are used to expand the groove; such an installation prevents the tool from flying out of the groove.

Place stripes at the bottom of the frame. An electric motor is mounted on them.

All that remains is to tighten the belt. The available pulley block allows you to achieve the desired tension on the V-belt.

The main assembly is complete. All that remains is to connect the wires and install the starting fittings. All that remains is to perform sea trials and adjust the position of the tables and knives.

Manufacturing of a jointing machine based on an electric planer

General view of the electric planer: 1 – front platform; 2 – rear platform; 3 – knife roller; 4 – belt drive.

Modern electric planers already have the necessary set of elements. Therefore, they are quite often used to make a jointing machine.

1. The knife shaft is usually made with two grooves; two knives will be placed there. Special plates and nuts are included for installation and adjustment. You just need to use the instructions to align them relative to the back sole.
2. The sampling depth is determined by the position of the front sole. It can be moved in a vertical plane. Depending on the type of wood and planing tasks, different processing depths are set. Most masters set this value to 0.3...0.5 mm.
3. The width is small. There are models in which it is 82 mm. But it is more convenient to use a plane with a processing width of 110 mm. Then you can plan floorboards or other workpieces.
4. There is a side hole. You can attach a hose from a vacuum cleaner to it. Then there will be no chips on the workbench that have to be constantly removed.
5. Special frames are included with the kit for sharpening knives. With their help, the master can independently restore the sharpness of the knives.
6. The design of the knives allows for their double-sided use. If it becomes dull, there is no need to sharpen it right away. They just turn it over reverse side and continue working.
7. For the convenience of perpendicular planing of surfaces, there are auxiliary plates.
8. For sampling quarters, the product is equipped with special stops.

Set for stationary placement of the plane:

The convenience of modern models is that they are equipped with a stand for installation on a desktop. The support can be rigidly fixed to a fixed support. Vertical elements are used to fix the electric planer in a given position.

Some craftsmen prefer to make their own support for stationary use. They make not only jointing equipment. To obtain parts of a given thickness, a thickness planer. Rework is minimal, but the quality is one level higher.

Step-by-step production of a planing machine and thickness planer based on it

The Interskol-110 electric planer is used as the initial sample. The working width of the workpiece being processed will be 110 mm.

To plan boards and bars, you need to set the plane with the soles up.

For the manufacture of the body, plywood 15 mm thick is used. Using circular equipment, blanks are cut out: sidewalls and supporting surface.

There are protection covers on the sides of the plane. To install the tool, they must be temporarily removed. Grooves will be cut into the sidewalls for installing an electric planer.

By applying the tool, determine its position relative to the sidewalls. This is the most crucial moment. The quality of the future wooden parts depends on how well the marking is done.

When the base is determined, the position of the casing is marked. Its outline is outlined for further cutting.

A jigsaw is used to cut out a hole. You have to drill holes and install a file in them. For work, use plywood saws with fine teeth.

The casing is used locally. If the need arises, the hole is modified.

By analogy, markings were made for the second sidewall. A shaped hole is cut out for another casing and a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

The second casing is being tried on.

Two sidewalls allow you to fix the plane in a certain position. All that remains is to install a support platform, which will ensure the rigidity of the entire structure.

After assembly, a support for planing parts is obtained. It can be used for jointing blanks for furniture production.

Production performance check. The boards are jointed by moving the boards along the surfaces of the front and back areas. However, this design allows you to modify the equipment and turn it into a thickness planer. Then the craftsman will have the opportunity to grind the workpieces specified thickness.

A small attachment, its movement occurs along the grooves. By setting the position of the attachment, you can set right size planing on a surface planer.

Reismus is ready. A machine was obtained from an electric planer, the cost of which is an order of magnitude higher.

Using a hand router as a base for a jointer

Hand milling cutters are widely used in furniture production and construction. With their help, a number of operations are performed:

• drill simple and figured grooves or through holes;
• form grooves and protrusions on furniture blanks;
• produce decorative carvings according to specified parameters of depth and trajectory;
• make filler holes and grooves for fittings.

Hand milling equipment:

To perform jointing using this tool, you need to make assistive device, which will make it possible to move in a given plane. The workpiece will be located below.

By sequentially passing a finger cutter along the surface at a given distance, a certain layer of wood is removed. Possible placement options: vertical and horizontal.

Video: how to make a jointer from a hand router?

Step-by-step production of an end jointer

To process short and long boards, you need a machine capable of processing the end. Decided to use manual frezer.

When planing, the cutter will be located between the feed and receiving surfaces. The cutting edge of the cutter is at the level of the second plane.

It was decided to use a Makita manual router, power 2 kW.

To make the machine, a table is used that is 150 cm long and 75 cm wide.

For guides it is used aluminum pipe, having a cross section of 45·95 mm. A groove is selected in it in which the cutter is placed.

It was decided to use a finger cutter with a diameter of 12 mm and a working part length of 70 mm.

To adapt the router for work, the plastic covers and mechanisms for adjusting the depth of processing are removed.

The support platform is removed. You need to secure the cutter to the platform. Additional rings will close the grooves to prevent chips from getting inside the tool.

A long screw compresses the return springs of the router. The working platform is set to position maximum depth processing.

Support platform is positioned and fixed to the instrument.

The site is returning to its place. It is flush with the surface of the table.

It is necessary to level the site in the longitudinal and transverse planes. A ruler is used.

The cutter is set in place and fixed.

Protective rings are placed in the grooves. Now the chips will not get inside the router.

To make it more convenient to use the cutter, plastic pads are glued to the receiving surface.

Overlays with a thickness of 0.5 and 1.5 mm are used. The choice depends on the type of wood. For hard rocks, a smaller height difference is used.

Before starting work, you need to glue the overlays. Polyurethane glue is used, which is applied using a spray gun. At this time, existing contaminants are washed off from the surface of the pipe. Then you need to thoroughly wipe the surface.

The cover is glued into place. It needs to be pressed as tightly as possible.

The pipe is placed in place. One end is fixed immediately rigidly.

The second end is fixed later. First you need to align the pipe relative to the cutter.

Look carefully at the cutter and receiving plane. They need to be set at the same level.

Using a ruler, they try to combine the plane and the cylindrical surface.

This is how you need to adjust the cutting edge and the plane with the overlay. Having aligned it along the ruler, fix the second end. This type of work is best done together.

A vacuum cleaner is used to remove chips. The pipe is inserted inside the pipe.

The end of the vacuum cleaner pipe is brought to the cutter. This will ensure high-quality removal of milling waste. The second end of the pipe is closed. The easiest way is to use a rag; it is inserted inside.

If you need to plan long boards, which are noticeably larger than the table, you need to come up with a way to fix the hanging ends.

It was decided to check the quality of the preliminary work. Gaps are visible between the end of the board and the rule. Their size in some places reaches up to 1.5 mm.

The length of the actual board to be processed is shown.

To prevent the workpiece from leaving the machine during operation, auxiliary support trestles are used. They have rollers installed on top. The board will move along them.

The machine is ready for work, jointing begins. The vacuum cleaner and router are turned on.

The board gradually comes into contact with the cutter.

During operation, the chips are removed in a thin layer and taken into the vacuum cleaner pipe.

Using the rule, the quality of processing is checked. A look from the outside helps to assess the presence of gaps.

There are no visible gaps. Consequently, the desired result has been achieved.

A square is used to check the perpendicularity of the surfaces. If the assembly of all machine elements is carried out correctly, the angle will be 90 ⁰.

Using different starting products, jointing machines are created for various purposes. Depending on the type of workpieces and the type of parts, a certain type is selected. Each master can choose the right option for himself.

Contents:

For performing various carpentry and carpentry work Different tools are always needed. Every craftsman, and even those who like to “tinker” with wood, should have various chisels, knives, saws, planes and other devices on hand.

At the same time, very often true professionals prefer a tool made by hand or to order. In this case, the work will definitely be done efficiently and with minimal costs strength

How, for example, can you make a jointer with your own hands? What is needed for this and what are the stages of completing such a task?

What is a jointer and why do you need it?

Initially, you should understand for what purposes you need to use a jointer. It will depend on this general concepts to create it with your own hands. This tool is simply necessary when finishing large wooden pieces.

The main difference between a hand jointer and a planer is its larger size.

The design of the jointer is very similar to the design of a universal plane. The main difference, along with large size, is the installation of a double knife. It is fixed using a special plug, which is located in the front part of the structure. For ease of operation, the plane is equipped with a handle located behind the knife.

For leveling, a jointer is passed over the surface of a wooden workpiece. In this case, at the beginning of the work, the chips will turn out torn. But there's nothing wrong with that. Gradually the chips will become smooth and continuous. This is what will mean that the workpiece has reached the desired levelness.

Very often for further work specialists change the jointer to a semi-jointer. Its device is no different from its older brother. The main difference is the smaller size. This allows you to process the surface better.

But modern masters They rarely use a simple jointer. It is more convenient to use an electric version mounted in the form of a machine. This device allows you to significantly speed up the processing of wooden parts. At the same time, quality is not lost, but rather improved.

The difference between a jointer and a simple jointer or planer is the way it is used. In this case, the installation itself remains in place, and the master moves the workpiece. When passing along a moving shaft with knives with wooden part a layer of 1-2 millimeters is removed. As a result, the workpiece is obtained with a perfectly flat surface.

Making a manual version of the jointer

If you like to do everything with your own hands, including processing wooden workpieces with a hand jointer, then you can easily make this tool yourself. Prepare first wooden block. Its dimensions must match the future jointer. The block should be taken from hard wood, for example, larch or oak. The stronger the workpiece, the longer your plane will last.

During production, you should take into account some recommendations on the size of the future tool. Experts recommend using the following parameters:

• Most often, the length of the jointer is 60-70 centimeters. Of course, you choose this option yourself, everything will depend on which tool is more convenient for you to use;
• for the workpiece, take a beam with the length you need, with a width of 76 millimeters, and a height of 70 millimeters;
• the size of the knife should be 200 by 65 millimeters;
• To make the handle comfortable, its height is made at least 10 centimeters.

Using a chisel, a through hole is punched through the block square hole. In this case, its sides should be located at an angle of 45 degrees. The knife will be inserted into this hole. The block itself must have a perfectly flat bottom surface. After all, it is along it that the future workpiece will be leveled.

When choosing a knife for a jointer, you should pay attention to rectangular and durable models. In many specialized stores you can find a large assortment of similar products. The knife is inserted and fixed in the opening made.

Next, a thin wooden plate is installed (which will act as a wedge). Next, the shock plug should be installed. To do this, select a place in the middle between the edge of the hole and the front edge of the jointer itself. At this point, the main working part is ready for use.

But it will be difficult to work with such a tool. For convenience, it is necessary to attach a handle. Its shape should ideally fit your hand, so it is made individually. To make a handle, you can use multilayer plywood.

For even greater ease of use of your new jointer, you can optionally install a second handle. Also, some models are equipped with two blades. But this will depend on your personal preferences. The most important thing is that before work, the knife blade does not protrude beyond the underside of the tool by more than one millimeter.

Electric planer

Making a homemade jointer is not a difficult task. Anyone can do this kind of work, especially if they love working with wood. And the presence of such equipment in the workshop will significantly expand the capabilities of the master and make his work easier.

In order to make a jointing machine, you first need to prepare the required materials and tools. To work you will need:

• hacksaw for cutting blanks;
• hammer;
• carpenter's chisel;
• wooden blocks made of durable material. The best option would be parts made of larch or oak;
• plywood, preferably multilayer;
• bolts with nuts.

You can easily find all these materials and tools in your workshop. But the most important and main device that you will need to create a jointer with your own hands is electric plane.

He is the one who will do all the work.

An old electric planer is quite suitable for making a jointer.

Very often, modern electric planers are made with a plastic body. Such tools are cheaper and more convenient to use. But after prolonged use, such a case begins to crack and become loose. It is already inconvenient to use such tools in work, but for a jointing machine it is quite suitable.

The main thing is that the shaft with knives and the electric motor are in good working order. We only need to turn the old electric planer upside down and secure it in place.

In this video you will clearly see how to make a small jointer out of plywood using an old electric plane.

Video: Homemade jointer from an electric planer

There are some other requirements for an electric planer that will help make your task much easier.

First of all, you should take a closer look at the design itself. Modern manufacturers produce some models that are already adapted for our purposes. If you have this option, then your jointing machine will be the most productive.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the planing width. As a rule, for most modern electric planers it is 82 millimeters. This width is quite small for a full-fledged jointing machine.

The best option would be to use an electric planer with a planing width of 100 or even 110 millimeters. In this case, you can process workpieces 10 centimeters wide at a time.

But quite often there is a need to process more wide boards. In this case, each workpiece will have to be run through the jointer several times. This can significantly reduce your productivity. Many craftsmen use a machine with a built-in special shaft instead of an electric planer.

Stationary jointer

This version of the jointing device is quite powerful and productive, but is not without its drawbacks.

Firstly, the special shaft itself is a rather expensive part. Its cost can be up to half of the total cost of assembling a jointing machine.

Secondly, in addition to the shaft, you will have to purchase a fairly powerful electric motor, and also provide a mechanism for transmitting torque. All this will require certain knowledge and skills from you, and of course financial investments.

How to make a jointer yourself

The first step is to prepare a project for the future machine. It takes into account the dimensions of the existing old electric planer.

A drawing of a wooden box is made for it, and plywood sheets are adjusted to size. Calculations must be done carefully so that when creating the machine everything goes smoothly and the device itself works efficiently.

The first step is to make a body from wooden beams. It will look like a regular box without a bottom. Next, a sheet of plywood is nailed on top. A hole is made in it, the size corresponding to the dimensions of the electric planer used in the design.

Next, two more sheets of plywood are attached on both sides of the slot. In this case, their thickness should differ by one or two millimeters. The first sheet, the thin one, will serve as the feeding surface. The second, thick sheet of plywood, will be the receiving side. The workpiece is fed onto the rotating shaft of the electric planer from the thin side and comes out on the thicker side.

Next, it’s enough to fix the electric planer in its place and make a switch. Bolts and nuts are used for this. The switch can be used as a regular household switch. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can install a button. In this case, the switch must completely de-energize the jointing machine.

As a result, you will have a full-fledged electric jointer or jointer in your workshop. With its help you can process large volumes faster and with less effort. wooden blanks. Such a device will cost less than the factory version. But at the same time, it will do its job no worse than the purchased version. This means you will have more opportunities to make beautiful wooden products that will decorate your home or generate income for your family.

In this video you will see interesting solution for the manufacture of a vertical jointer from an electric planer.

Video: Homemade jointer from a manual electric planer

Safety precautions when using a jointer

Health safety when carrying out any work is a very important activity. The use of a jointer was no exception. This device requires special attention.

• First of all, do not start feeding the workpiece until the electric planer shaft reaches maximum amount revolutions;
• If during operation you need to clean the machine from accumulated chips, then first you need to stop it and turn off the power. Only after the shaft has completely stopped rotating can you begin to remove chips. The same applies to preventive lubrication or other similar work;
• if you need to process a part with small dimensions (length up to 40 centimeters and width up to 5 centimeters), then this must be done using a special stop. It is fixedly mounted on the working table of the jointing machine;
• it is best to equip the machine protective casing. When the workpiece moves forward, it will open, and when the material supply stops, it will close.

It is very important to ensure workplace good lighting. This requirement applies not only to carpentry, but also to all other types of work. You should not do anything “in the dark”; this will inevitably lead to injury. By following these simple precautions, you will only enjoy your work.

Making a jointer with your own hands, if you have at least basic knowledge about the structure of this tool, is not at all difficult. The task is greatly simplified if you have an old electric planer in your arsenal - it will become the main component of a home planer.

The jointer finds wide application in wood processing - with its help it is easy to make the surface smooth, get rid of unevenness and roughness, and give lumber a neat appearance. Having such a multifunctional tool at hand will significantly expand your woodworking capabilities. With a jointer it is easy to assemble furniture yourself, make lining or parquet.

Purpose of the jointer

Working with wood can be not only a pleasant hobby, but also an opportunity to provide all the necessary interior items. If you have specialized tools, homemade furniture in terms of quality and appearance will differ little from factory-produced analogues. A jointer is one of these tools; it makes it possible to make the surface of wood perfectly smooth and prepare it for gluing, varnishing or applying a decorative design.

A jointer, or jointer, is a tool for finishing lumber long length and width. Processing is carried out by removing a small (1-2 mm) layer of material using a rotating shaft into which sharp blades made of hardened metal are mounted.

The principle of operation of a jointer is identical to the operation of a plane, with the difference that the jointer is fixed in place, and the material being processed moves. The increased length of the device allows it to be used to give beautiful view wide flat surfaces

Selection of components for the jointer

In order to assemble a jointer from an electric planer, it is not at all necessary to disassemble it new tool. A plane that was previously used for its intended purpose is quite suitable. The disadvantage of some modern models of such devices is that their plastic body becomes loose over time, cracks and chips appear on it. It becomes unsafe to work with such a plane, but it fully meets the requirements for creating a jointing machine. All you need to do is turn the plane over and secure it in this form in a pre-prepared workbench.

Choosing an electric planer model is one of the important points when assembling the machine. Most models have a planing width of 82 mm, which fully satisfies the needs of home use. More expensive and powerful planes are equipped with a 100 or 110 mm shaft. In the latter case, such parameters make it possible to run boards and beams 10 cm wide through the tool, without leaving untreated areas.

It is worth paying attention to additional functions electric planer: some models are already equipped from the factory special devices, which allow you to turn the tool into a full-fledged jointing machine. This type of planer can be fixed with the sole up, while safety is ensured by a spring-loaded protective cover.

If there is a need to process materials whose width exceeds 110 mm, then doing this with an electric planer will be very inconvenient, since the board will have to be run several times, which increases time and reduces the accuracy of the work. In this case, it is worth considering the possibility of assembling a powerful jointer, the main components of which will be a separate shaft and a powerful electric motor. Although the cost of the shaft is often more than half the price of all materials, having such a tool in your arsenal, you will no longer be limited in your woodworking capabilities.

The planing width of a full-fledged jointer equipped with a shaft ranges from 25 to 85 cm or more, but one must take into account the fact that an increase in this parameter entails an increase in engine energy consumption.

Optimal engine power depends on several parameters:

• shaft width;
• number of knives;
• width of processed lumber.

Direct dependence: than higher value have the listed parameters, the higher the engine power should be. For home machines, 1.5-2 kW motors have proven themselves well. The shaft rotation speed of such machines is 4-4.5 thousand revolutions per minute, the width of the processed material is 25-40 cm.

Assembling a jointer

The jointer is assembled in several stages. First, you should assemble the body of the workbench, into which the electric planer will subsequently be mounted. The body looks like an ordinary wooden box without a bottom. It is covered on top with a thick sheet of plywood, in which a hole is cut for installing a plane. The plywood will bear the weight of the tool, and to work with the material it must be covered with two more sheets, the thickness of which will differ by 1-2 mm. They are installed on the right and left sides of the plane. Thin plywood in this case, it plays the role of a serving table, and thick plywood acts as a receiving table.

The principle of interaction between the feeding and receiving tables is extremely simple: the lumber, moving along one half of the workbench, reaches the plane, and a layer of chips 1-2 mm thick is removed from it. The already processed wood ends up on the receiving part of the table, where it takes a stable position, thereby allowing the rest of the board to pass over the plane. In addition to the support function, this reduces vibration and makes it possible to provide reliable support during work.

Assembling a jointing machine with a shaft is a little more difficult, but if you have experience, it will not take much time either. Such a machine consists of similar parts - a housing, a feeding and receiving table, and a compartment for collecting chips. Not superfluous in such a model homemade device there will be a speed reducer, which will allow you to reduce the speed of rotation of the shaft to pass problem areas - significant irregularities, knots, etc. Great importance has the calculation and precise adjustment of all body elements to each other, ensuring reliable engine mounting and ideal alignment of the work tables.

Safety precautions when working

The jointer, due to a combination of dangerous factors - high speed rotation of the shaft and the presence of sharp blades, refers to potentially traumatic equipment. Working with it requires strict adherence to a number of safety rules. Especially it concerns homemade instruments: incorrect calculation of the elements that make them up often leads to fatal consequences. To avoid problems when working with a jointing machine, you need to adhere to the following requirements:

1. Before starting work, you need to wait until the shaft reaches maximum speed.
2. Under no circumstances should the working tool be inspected, lubricated or cleaned of chips during operation. To do this, you need to stop the machine, turn off the power and only then start servicing.
3. When processing small parts, the length of which does not exceed 40 cm and the width - 5 cm, you should use a special vertical stop. It looks like a thick board, which is fixedly attached to the feeding work table.
4. To increase operational safety, the jointer shaft can be equipped with a special protective flap. As the material moves forward, it moves away, and after processing is completed, it returns to its original position using a spring system. The blades of the shaft remain closed from accidental contact.
5. Lighting is of great importance - all work should be carried out under the light of a powerful lamp, or outside.

Household and industrial jointers are widely used for wood processing. Just like turning, circular and milling machines, jointers are mandatory equipment for carpentry shops. They are easy to use and reliable. Working with homemade jointers requires accuracy and some skills.

Scope of application and purpose

Industrial and home-made planing equipment is used for one-sided processing of flat surfaces of wood products. The main area of ​​application of the machines is furniture and woodworking production. Perpendicular surfaces are planed on them, chamfers are selected at the desired angle from the sides. Precision processing is important when assembling furniture; jointing equipment allows you to obtain a part of a given size. Planing mechanisms are often used at home in household workshops.

A jointing machine does not allow you to plan thickness to size, or make parts with parallel surfaces!

Classification of jointing machines

Depending on the number of planing devices, planing machines can be double-sided or single-sided. All planing devices are divided into categories according to the width of the planing surface, the length of the work table and the rotation speed of the knife shaft.

According to the processed width of the workpiece, mechanisms are distinguished:

• by 40 cm;
• by 50 - 52 cm;
• at 60 - 63 cm.

Compact homemade units for home have a smaller processing width.

According to the length of the working surface, two groups of devices are distinguished:

• with a length of less than 250 cm;
• with a length from 250 to 300 cm.

Larger workpieces can be processed on long tables. The quality of jointing also improves.

According to the frequency of torsion of the working shaft, machines are divided into two categories:

• 4700 - 4800 rpm;
• 5000 rpm.

Industrial motors can operate at speeds up to 12,000 rpm.

The device of a jointing machine

The design consists of the main elements:

• working surface;
• bed;
• guide;
• knife shaft;
• circular fence.

Working surface planer consists of two plates: back and front. The level of the back plate coincides with the level of the top point of the cutter blades. The front level is set lower to the extent that the material is removed during processing. Typically the level difference is no more than 1.5 millimeters. This is enough to qualitatively process the surface of the part in two steps.

The plates are made of cast iron, and to make the table more stable, stiffening ribs are provided. The edges of the slabs are covered with steel plates that protect them from destruction. They are also chip breakers.

The knife shaft is located between two plates; cutters are attached to the shaft. For high-quality processing, it is necessary to select the same cutters. As a rule, single-edged knives are used that can be sharpened. Double-edged cutters, when severely dull, are thrown away and replaced with new ones; they cannot be sharpened. As a rule, machines for household workshops are equipped with cutters made of tool high-speed steel. To work with dense types of wood or pressed boards, carbide-tipped cutters are used.

The guide is fixed with bolts in the provided holes. The ruler can move in the transverse direction depending on the size of the part.

A circular fence is installed on the front of the slab; it fits tightly to the guide due to the spring. The fence covers the knife shaft. The movement from the motor to the blade shaft is transmitted through a belt drive.

The optimal size of wooden parts for processing on a jointer is from 100 to 150 cm. Too long parts hang down and create inconvenience when working at home, while short parts are dangerous.

Setting and selecting mode

Before starting work, you need to calculate the thickness of the material being planed and the speed of movement of the workpiece (for equipment with an automatic feeder). The size of the layer depends on the initial state of the tree and is determined experimentally. To do this, several (no more than five) workpieces are processed. If untreated areas remain on the surface, the slab is lowered slightly. If the workpiece is warped by more than 2.5 mm, processing is carried out in two stages.

When the height of the slabs is set, measure the gap between the edge of the cutters and the jaws of the slabs, which should be from 2 to 3 millimeters. To determine the gap, a calibrated plate is used, which should be inserted into the gap easily, but without gaps. If the gap exceeds 3 mm, the part becomes covered with tears; if the gap is less than 2 mm, the cutter is destroyed.

In addition to setting the slabs in height, it is also necessary to determine the location of the guide. When processing wooden blocks, the gap between the ruler and the left edge of the knife shaft should be slightly larger than the width of the block. Gradually, the knives become dull and the guide moves to the right, involving other parts of the cutters in the work. The ruler moves across the tabletop to rack and pinion device, launched by the flywheel. To make a corner chamfer on an edge, the guide is installed using a template or square and secured with a screw.

Automatic feeders regulate the feeding of parts without stoppers, with low pressure. When processing edges, they are placed parallel to the ruler.

The correct settings of planing equipment are determined experimentally. Allowed errors are:

• on the plane no more than 0.15 millimeters per meter;
• perpendicularly - no more than 0.1 millimeter per 10 cm.

Working principle of a jointer

One person is enough to operate single-sided jointing equipment at home. He examines the condition of the workpiece and places it with its convex plane up on the front plate. With both hands he presses it against the ruler and points it at the cutters. Next, the already trimmed side is pressed with the left hand to the surface of the back plate. The master inspects the processed workpiece: if it is not planed enough, he sends it to the knives. It is advisable to avoid processing very warped workpieces, since too thick a layer of chips is removed. The remaining workpiece may turn out unacceptably thin.

When processing two perpendicular planes The first to go into work is the larger one. Then it is applied to the guide and the second one is planed. The double-sided machine allows you to process both sides simultaneously.

• If “burns” or “mossiness” appear on the surface during processing, it’s time to sharpen the cutters;
• When working with parts shorter than 40 cm and narrower than 3 cm, they are held only with special pushers, and parts of complex shapes are held with templates;
• If the planed plane is curved or has the shape of an impeller, you should check the level of the tabletop plates and the blade shaft.

DIY jointing machine

homemade machine - side view

The frame of a small tabletop machine for home can be made from a rectangular metal pipe. More powerful homemade design will be obtained from a 40 mm corner. The width of the bed depends on the size of the knives and the planned planing width.

At one end, two guides are welded to the frame, the upper edges of which coincide with the surface of the frame. In the middle of the frame, a knife shaft mounted on a pair of ball bearings is attached to bolts screwed into pre-prepared holes.

The working surfaces for the desktop machine for the home are made of thick plywood laid on bars. And to regulate their level, homemade overhead bolted connections are provided. Four connections for each plate: a pair at the front and a pair at the back. A vertical block with a hole is attached to each part of the tabletop from below. A long threaded pin is threaded through the block and the upper horizontal of the bed, with the help of which the position of the table top relative to the knife shaft is changed.

There is another option for homemade fastening of the work surface: there are grooves made in the frame (4 pcs.), in the movable tabletop there is the same number of holes into which threaded pin heads are inserted. By tightening the nuts and moving the pins in the grooves, they change the distance between the blade shaft and the edge of the tabletop.

The back plate is installed motionless and adjusted in height to the knife shaft. A board or chipboard of a suitable size can serve as a guide ruler.

When choosing a motor, you should proceed from the nature of use of the future machine. For household needs, a power of 750 W is sufficient, but a motor with a power of at least 1.5 kilowatts can cope with more serious tasks.

A few more options for homemade jointers:

Review of factory models

W0108


W0100

What do you need to make a homemade jointer with your own hands? First you need to decide on the types of this tool.

There are three types of jointer.

1. The first is manual, reminiscent of an elongated plane.
2. The second one is an electric planer, it looks like a circular saw with a horizontal knife.
3. And the third is a jointing machine.

Its main parts are the statina and the jointing shaft.

How to make a jointer with your own hands?

The proposed version of the jointer will allow you to easily process workpieces longer than 60 cm. The basis of this woodworking machine is a manual electric plane Russian production– Interskol.

The power tool has been slightly modified. For example, the original soles were removed. And additional holes were cut in plastic case for easier release of chips from the plane.

To create a jointer, you will need a table to which an electric plane will be attached from below. The base of the machine table top is made of two corners soldered to each other. total length working surface is 130 cm.

The photo shows the holes with which the plane will later be attached.

1) For precise and high-quality processing of wood, a stop is required. It must be welded perpendicular to the work surface. The same stop is welded on the other side.

2) Then the guide can be screwed to the welded stops. You can use flat boards as a guide. In our case, this is a piece of chipboard.

Very important point is that the serving and receiving parts of the table are at different levels. More precisely, the entire feeding part is 1 mm lower. This difference allows you to cut off a layer 1 mm thick from the workpiece. The feeding and receiving parts are connected to each other by two parts on the sides. The connecting parts in our case are a cut channel.

The table is assembled together using electrode welding. 2.5 mm electrodes were used so as not to burn through the metal. Welding was done by spot welding.

The machine stands on 3 legs. On one side there are two thin legs made of metal pipes, and on the other side there is a thicker leg. To answer the question why exactly 3 legs, you need to remember the geometry. After all, a plane can be drawn through any three points. A machine with three legs will stand firmly even on an uneven floor, while a four-legged machine will wobble in this case.

And in order to prevent the entire machine from falling apart, two diagonals were welded metal pipes. This increased the strength of the structure.

Once the table is assembled and ready, you can begin attaching the power tool. Standard mounting screws are used as connecting elements. They attached the original sole. The plane is attached from below. For a tighter fit, you can use a compensating gasket. The photo clearly shows that the gasket adds thickness.

By leaning the plane against the bottom and aligning the bolts with the holes, you can tighten the mounting bolts. They should be wrapped securely. So that the plane does not fall off later. Now you can turn on the assembled homemade jointer and feel free to work on it.

Video: homemade jointer.

Video: second part.

Video: third part.