Make an artificial fire in the fireplace with your own hands. How to make an imitation on the wall of natural stone from foam plastic, plaster or egg trays with your own hands using available materials: shapes, finishing, techniques

One of fashion trends in interior decoration - Brick wall. Good for those who have a brick house. All they need is to knock off the plaster and slightly “tamper” what is available. What should the rest of us do? There are wallpapers and brick-like tiles, but not all of them are plausible, and good ones cost almost as much as a natural brick wall. The best option in this case - a self-made imitation brick for interior decoration. Moreover, “bricks-tiles” can be made separately, or you can decorate the entire wall in one go.

How to make an imitation brick wall: a short list of methods

The easiest way is if you have brickwork hidden under the plaster. Beat the plaster, clean the seams, prime and paint. The result is a natural brick wall. Moreover, it will look quite “old” and vintage. Those who are less fortunate will have to imitate this brickwork. The good news is that there are many ways, inexpensive materials are available, and you can make a “brick wall” on concrete, plasterboard, plywood... any more or less durable surface. By the way, most techniques take little time. So, here's how to make imitation brick for interior decoration:

This is just a short list. There are several technological differences at each point. So imitation brick for interior decoration can be done in at least a dozen ways. Let's talk about some in more detail.

sawing brick

It seems like a reasonable idea to replace the expensive finishing tiles“like a brick” with bricks loosened into plates. But you need a brick good quality, without voids, inhomogeneities, underburning or overburnt areas. In general, you need an expensive brick. Or old.

An example of sawn bricks... but these are two “beautiful” parts

It's better to cut it circular saw with water cooling. It will work out decorative tiles“brick-like” in natural color. The thickness of the tiles is at least 8-10 mm. The advantages are clear: low price, no need to paint - there is a natural color. This homemade tiles under the brick, they are then glued to the walls using regular tile adhesive.

We lay out any texture from sawn bricks. And this is for decorating external corners

But there are also disadvantages: you need a good quality brick, but you still have to find it. When cutting, the plates may break. Only two of them are obtained with a beautiful surface - the extreme ones. The rest will have to be modified manually, creating a relief. It’s tedious, dusty, time-consuming, difficult, and it’s not a fact that brick imitation will actually be learned “at the level.”

Despite all the shortcomings, this method is used. And this is, perhaps, the only option for homemade imitation of brickwork, which can be used for exterior finishing . For these purposes (finishing the facade of a building), by the way, you can cut the brick into two halves. Everything is cheaper than buying tiles.

How to draw brickwork on a wall

If “wet” or “dusty” work is not your thing, but you know how to draw at least a little, you can paint a brick wall. You will need acrylic paints, brushes, a pair of natural sponges, masking tape, and thick paper plates for mixing paints. When thinning paints, remember that acrylic paints darken as they dry. And one more thing: they dry quickly, but freshly applied ones can be removed with a clean cloth soaked in water.

First we prepare workplace: cover the baseboard and adjacent floor with polyethylene or old wallpaper (it’s better to fix it with tape). Use masking tape to outline the boundaries - at the top, on the sides. At the bottom there is a limiter - a plinth, although in order not to get dirty, it can be removed.

Drawing bricks on the wall

1. Paint the wall with white semi-matte acrylic paint. Leave to dry.
2. Preparing the background paint. In one of the paper plates, mix 1/6 part umber, 1/6 black paint and 4/6 titanium white. Immediately prepare a little paint, apply it to the wall using a sponge, simply applying the surface soaked in paint to the wall. You shouldn’t try to make a solid background - it should be torn and textured. In some places we apply the paint more densely, passing twice, in some places we apply a more transparent layer.

   

3. On a dry background, draw several rows of bricks by hand, not using a ruler. We focus on the standard for masonry: 25 * 6.5 cm, seam thickness - 0.8-1.2 cm. When marking, keep in mind that using this technology it is easier to make the seam a little narrower by painting it, than to try to widen it later.
4. To paint “bricks,” you need to mix ocher and sienna in different proportions, obtaining different shades of “brick” colors - from yellowish-orange to brownish. We got some shade, painted several “bricks” in random places. We mixed a new batch and painted over the other bricks. We apply the paint with a brush, without trying to get a uniform surface or a dense layer of paint - the background layer is visible. The edges of the “bricks” also should not be smooth.
5. For a traditional red-brown color, to sienna and red ocher, add a little light ocher and a little white. You can paint several bricks in a row with this color.

   

6. One more shade - to the above composition we will add brown mars and a little water. Apply with a brush or sponge - as desired.
7. If you add white and burnt sienna to ocher and sienna, you get another color.
8. We paint all the bricks in random order with these shades.
9. We dilute white and a little ocher, add water. Apply the composition with a sponge, acting as a tampon.
10. Take an old toothbrush and burnt bone paint. We dip the bristles in paint and spray them on the wall, imitating the heterogeneity and texture of clay bricks.

    

11. We add volume to the bricks: dip a thin brush in a mixture of umber and white. We bring all the bricks from below and to the right or left. Everything is on one side, depending on where the window is located (on the side opposite the window). The thickness of the liner varies, since the masonry and the bricks themselves cannot be ideal.

It takes much longer to describe than to do it all. A beginner can draw about 30 squares of imitation brickwork in a day. For maximum verisimilitude, there are several secrets, which we will discuss below.

Final Touches

To ensure that the brickwork painted on the wall is as close to natural as possible, there are several little secrets:

With some skill and effort, you can ensure that the painted brickwork looks like the natural one. The main rule: imperfection and heterogeneity.

Imitation brick for interior decoration using plaster mortar

The general idea is simple: a layer of plaster or tile adhesive is applied to the wall, and a seam is cut/pressed into it. After processing the edges of the “bricks” and seams, and painting, the result is a semblance of brickwork of varying degrees of plausibility. Everything is simple, but there are significant differences and nuances.

What and how to make a solution from

The first question that arises is: what kind of solution is needed and from what? There are many recipes. Here are some options:

Regardless of what you make the solution from, it should be semi-dry and should not leak under any circumstances. It will not need to be leveled, so its plasticity is not important to you, and the adhesive ability will be provided by additives - tile adhesive and PVA. To adjust the consistency, add water in small portions.

Surface preparation

The wall on which we will make imitation brickwork does not have to be even. It should be free of dust and dirt, crumbling fragments and particles. This is where the requirements end.

The process of preparing the wall is a careful approach: first they make markings

Before starting work better wall prime. The type of primer depends on the substrate. If the wall is concrete or loose, walk with “concrete contact”. It will bind crumbling particles and create an adhesive surface on which any composition fits perfectly. If we are decorating plywood, gypsum board or other similar material, we can do without a primer, or we can coat it with diluted PVA.

Technology No. 1. We use thin tape to draw seams

First, we paint the wall to match the color of the seams between the bricks. Some are planning gray-brown, others white-gray. We cover the wall with paint of a suitable shade. Using narrow masking tape (1 cm or slightly less/more), apply markings to the prepared base. The tape will mark the seams between the bricks, so stick it horizontally, at a distance of about 6-6.5 cm from each other. When the horizontal lines are pasted, glue the short vertical ones. They are 23-25 ​​cm apart from each other - this is the length of a standard building bricks, but decorative ones can be shorter.

Now we take the solution and apply it to the wall. The layers are unequal, the thickness is 0.3-0.5 cm. We apply it “as it turns out”, without achieving a flat surface, smooth transitions... As it turns out, so be it. We only avoid obvious bald spots through which the wall shines. We filled the area, took a flat trowel (grater), and slightly smoothed out what we got. Leave until slightly dry: so that when you press with your finger, the composition is slightly pressed through.

We pry up the ends of the horizontally pasted strips of adhesive tape in any place (when gluing, leave the “tails”), pull, removing along with the solution adhering to the tape. We remove the entire mesh. The edges of the “bricks” turn out to be torn and uneven. This is fine. Even good.

Take a toothbrush or paint brush with fairly stiff bristles. Use a toothbrush to go along the seams, removing any remaining mortar. At the same time, the edges of the bricks are rounded. Then we take a wider brush and use it to go over the surface, adding naturalness and removing too sharp edges. Leave to dry at room temperature for approximately 48-72 hours. Do not force dry it - it will crack. Although, if you want to have cracks... If the composition was not painted in bulk, it's a matter of painting.

Technology No. 2: cutting the “seams”

This method of simulating brick for interior decoration takes less time: no tape is required. Apply the solution to the surface of the wall. Everything is exactly the same as described above, only the layer can be thicker - up to 0.8-1 cm. After waiting until the solution “sets” a little, we mark the seams. Here again there are options:

The second option is more accurate. But you have to be careful not to make it too smooth. Although, due to the fact that the hand trembles, the seam “walks” slightly, which gives a more believable look.

Having done horizontal seams, let's start cutting the vertical ones - also by hand. The width of the bricks is about 6 cm, the length is around 23-25 ​​cm. Having finished, we wait for 12-14 hours. Until the composition has set enough to be picked out. When the concrete begins to crumble under strong pressure, take a wide screwdriver (the usual one with a “spatula”) and use it to pick out the solution between the cut strips.

In progress…

When the seams are cleaned, take a stiff brush or brush and remove the remaining mortar and crumbs. The bristles on the brush should be fairly stiff. If the solution is dry, you can try more drastic measures - a wire brush.

Technology No. 3: saw seams

This method of making imitation brickwork for interior decoration differs only in that instead of a knife we ​​take an old hacksaw blade.

After waiting until the solution sets and does not slide, we use a saw to mark the boundaries of the seams. Here you choose one of the methods described above. But you don’t have to wait any longer: use a hacksaw to paint out the seams little by little. Long horizontal seams are quick to make, but vertical ones are not very convenient, since the fabric is not very suitable for short distances.

This method is good because there is no danger of “over-drying” the solution. You can do the “jointing” as soon as the solution hardens a little. In this state, it is easier to round the edges of the bricks, giving them a natural “old age”. The downside is that you have to get used to it, otherwise you might end up doing something bad.

Making a mold for casting brick tiles from plaster

An imitation of brick for interior decoration in an apartment or house can also be cast: you can make gypsum tiles in the form of bricks yourself. To do this with interesting specimens bricks, an impression is taken (a mold is made to form an artificial finishing stone), then gypsum solution is poured into it. The resulting tiles are used for wall decoration. This technology is good because it allows you to prepare several forms in which you can make bricks different colors for different rooms.

We find bricks of interesting shape and several almost ordinary ones, but with various minor defects. We will use them to cast the mold. It is desirable that there be at least a dozen of them, or better yet, more. “Artificial brickwork” will be more varied.

On the side that we will “multiply”, apply grease or heated wax mixed with kerosene. This is necessary so that the silicone does not stick to the surface. When everything is dry, apply a layer to the treated side silicone sealant. The layer thickness is 1-1.5 cm. Leave until the silicone is completely polymerized (the time depends on the type, it is written on the package).

When the silicone has hardened, take polyurethane foam and coat the mold without removing it from the brick. After the foam has hardened, remove the brick and level the bottom of the mold so that it stands level. Can be used by filling with gypsum mortar. It sets quickly; if you have a dozen molds, in 2-3 days you can make tiles for a couple of squares simulating a brick wall. Gypsum mortar By the way, you can paint in bulk. Then new cracks and chips are not a problem - just like a brick.

How and what to paint

IN Lately The white brick wall has become fashionable. If you are going to do just this, there are no problems: apply the seams with a brush, use a roller to apply the surface. If you want something that is not too monochromatic, add a little tint to the base color composition - gray, brown, yellow... or even pink or blue. Paint with this paint. Add more white to the remainder and add highlights with this lighter composition using a semi-dry roller, sponge, or brush. If desired, you can apply the top “shadows” with silver, bronze, adding a little gold. Here's how you like it best.

Imitation brick in the bedroom - looks very stylish

If the seams in the imitation brickwork should be darker, go over them first with a brush. Then, using a roller with short or medium pile, we paint the very surface of the bricks. If you take a roller with even shorter pile, dip it in paint of a different shade (lighter or darker - it depends), in bronze, silver, gold, etc. and with this roller, quickly, lightly touching, paint over the most protruding parts, you will get an even more interesting effect. In general, you can experiment. With this approach, imitation brick becomes a design object and the main interior decoration.

Many people like to look at fire. At the same time, not every person can afford to have a real fireplace in the house with a real flame in the hearth. But today, thanks to the availability of such material as drywall, you can make a decorative fireplace with your own hands.

Salt lamp

A salt lamp is a special lamp whose lampshade is made of raw salt crystal. Inside such a lampshade there is a standard light bulb. When the lamp is connected, the lampshade heats up and begins to emit negative ions into the air. They bind positive ions (emanating from household appliances), which negatively affect the human body, thereby promoting better well-being for all household members.
The disadvantages of this method include the fairly high cost of salt lamps, and the advantages are the ease of installation.
Using lampshades of different colors, you can effectively and very easily make an artificial fire in the fireplace with your own hands. In addition, using several lamps of different sizes at once, you can create an imitation of a fire.

Christmas garlands

Preparing branches

All people love New Year. Therefore, every person has more than one Christmas tree garland in their home. But few people know that with its help you can easily and quickly make an artificial fire in a decorative fireplace with your own hands. That's why this method considered one of the simplest and most effective. Moreover, anyone can handle it, and the cost is very low.
To make the flame look like a real one, you will need the following materials:

• tree branches of various sizes;
• aluminium foil;
• lace. It can be easily cut from an old dress;
• stones (several pieces);
• glue;
• Christmas tree garland having a background color of red, orange or yellow color. The best solution would be to use a flickering garland.

The simulation structure is assembled as follows:

• wrap the branches with foil without gaps;
• coat the lace with glue and attach it to the branches. Next, wait until they are completely dry;

Note! It will take about a day for it to dry completely.

• Next, you should carefully cut the lace case and remove the blanks from them;
• after that, in the hearth of stones, we lay out the stones in a circle;
• We place a garland in the middle of the resulting circle, and bring the cord and plug out;
• We place the resulting “lace” firewood in the manner of a fire.

Stages of forming a fire

Plug in the garland and enjoy the imitation of fire!
As you can see, this method is very easy to implement and will cost you much less than all other methods.

TV as a fireplace

TV in the fireplace

Another simple method for creating artificial fire in a fireplace is to use a flat-panel LCD TV. But this method will be very expensive, since such equipment is not cheap.
There are special TVs designed to be built into decorative fireplaces. They contain a recording of fire, which is played in the hearth of the fireplace.

Sometimes the TV can be supplemented with a special optical system, which consists of light filters. With its help, the image of the flame will become more expressive and voluminous.
Except this optical system you can use a mirror system. They are located in the corners of the hearth, thereby making the image more voluminous.
In rare cases, you can also use holographic installations. But this is a very unprofitable method.

Candles and romance

The simplest, but also the most dangerous, way to create the illusion of fire in a decorative fireplace is to use ordinary lit candles.

Candles in the fireplace

But here it should be remembered that the fireplace should be sheathed with plasterboard sheets with fire-resistant properties. This will minimize the risk of fire.
Among other things, the candles will smoke, which makes this method less popular than all of the above.
This method is considered one of the design solutions to make the room romantic and fabulous. In this situation, candles can be placed individually around the perimeter of the hearth, or installed on a low candelabra.
As you can see, simulating a flame in a decorative fireplace with your own hands is possible in a variety of ways. All you have to do is choose the most suitable option for yourself, implement it correctly (if it is complex in execution) and enjoy the decorative fireplace even in your apartment.

Is it possible to make a funny fire out of paper with your own hands? Even the youngest children feel great interest in natural elements. They watch with pleasure and joy the flow of wind, the flow of water and the burning of fire.

How do people make a fire now? They collect branches, chop wood, and look for lighter paper. You can already hear the click of a lighter or the brief creak of a match head. A warm, living flame engulfs the paper and spreads further and further. The branches and firewood are already burning. The fire has flared up!

Previously, people were very afraid of fire, because fires and lightning carrying fire brought a lot of destruction. Then, some ancient daredevil learned to tame the fire by planting it in one place and preventing it from burning everything in its path. Another ancient craftsman learned to make fire by quickly rubbing one stick against another. Now people could enjoy warm food cooked over a fire. They could illuminate their meager home and keep warm on cold nights. Imagine how important this was for them!

Let us also say thank you to the fire and make a craft in its honor! How to make paper fire? Making paper crafts is very interesting.

For the craft we need:

• CD – disk
• Glue brush
• Thin as tracing paper
• Dry twigs
• Stones

To begin with, we take our CD - this will be the basis on which the craft will be located. Apply a lot of glue to the disk and place pebbles on the glue in a circle.

Inside the circle of stones we need to fill the space with something that will look like black coals. This could be a handful of real earth, tea leaves, ground coffee, scraps of dark paper or dark pieces of wood.

We roll yellow, red and orange paper into a bundle so that sharp corners remain on top - these will be future flames. We tie the bundle with thread or tape, leaving the top free and straightening it. We lay out dry twigs on the disk, like logs for a future fire. Insert a bundle of paper into the branches.

Autumn provides a lot of material for creativity. From autumn leaves You can make a “Bonfire” craft. Dolls can gather around such a fire while playing Indians, tourists or primitive people; on it you can pretend to cook food for dolls, etc.

Materials and tools:

• red, orange and yellow leaves(maple and viburnum leaves will look beautiful, but any others are also possible),
• thin branch,
• small stones,
• thin rounded cut of a tree,
• PVA glue,
• glue gun,
• scissors,
• double-sided red cardboard.

How to make a “Bonfire” craft from natural material:

Dry the leaves under pressure.

Glue red leaves onto red cardboard with PVA glue. Cut the cardboard close to the outline of the leaves. Glue orange leaves onto the red ones, and yellow leaves onto them. Glue the lightest piece of paper last.

Cut the cardboard with leaves along the bottom of the lightest leaf.

Dry leaves are very brittle material. To prevent the “flame” from crumbling over time, you must laminate it or cover it on both sides with wide transparent tape, especially if this craft is intended for play.

Break a thin twig into small pieces and glue them in the center wooden cut using a glue gun. Apply glue from a glue gun along the edge of the cut and glue the pebbles onto it.

Glue a fire of leaves onto the branches with a glue gun.

If necessary, the tree cut can be replaced with a circle cut out of thick cardboard; the leaves can be made using imprints of real leaves using paints, colored pencils, or cut out from colored paper.

You can make it from autumn leaves,

Many people like to watch the flames. At the same time, not everyone can place a real hearth at home with a real fire and firewood. Nowadays, there is a way out; it’s quite possible to make a false fireplace yourself, just prepare: drywall (gypsum plasterboard), tools, good mood. However, when the installation of the frame is completed, the question arises of how to imitate a real flame in a fake fireplace.

Imitation of fire in a fireplace: design options

Decorative home hearths made of gypsum plasterboard require compliance with fire safety standards, since such a design is designed exclusively for artificial fire.

Most often, craftsmen use the following types of fire imitation:

1. Use of steam.
2. Creation of "theater fire".
3. Use of salt lamps.
4. Installation in the TV hearth.

The most difficult way to create a decorative flame is with steam. Not everyone can create such an imitation, because it will require a specific set of components and special equipment, as well as skills in working with electronics.

To make a fire of this kind, you need to prepare:

1. DMX controller.
2. Fan with a diameter of 9 cm.
3. LED RGB lamp.
4. DMX decoder.
5. 3rd ultrasonic generator for fog.

These devices must be selected according to the parameters of the built fireplace, the layout, as well as the manufacturer and characteristics. It all depends on what initial result the master wants to get. All these devices are part of steam electric fireplaces, as well as concert electrical devices that create the effect of steam.

If the devices are connected correctly, it is possible to make an imitation using a cold glow system, which makes it possible to make a fire simulator that is difficult to distinguish from a real hearth.

If the master wants to use exactly this method of simulating a flame, it is important to provide the necessary parameters for the components and mount the fireplace of the required size.

The operating principle of such an electric fireplace looks like this::

1. A fog generator should be placed at the bottom of the container into which water is previously poured.
2. The generator has a membrane that creates vibrations at a specific ultrasonic frequency, providing reduced pressure. Therefore, it turns out, one might say, a vacuum and the water evaporates at room temperature.
3. Thanks to this, the steam rises.
4. The top is illuminated by an LED lamp.
5. A diaphragm is installed above the structure.

Assembly using technology will make it possible to create a more natural imitation of flame yourself in a false fireplace. The second way is the theatrical option. As is already clear, this method is used in theatrical circles for various kinds of productions. However, it is also suitable for making a dummy, imitation of fire.

To make such an imitation yourself, you need to prepare the following items:

1. A piece of light white silk fabric.
2. 3 halogen lamps with reflectors.
3. Silent, powerful fan.
4. 3 filters: red, orange and blue.
5. A box or a special bowl for assembling a false structure.

When everything is prepared, you can start assembling following diagram. A fan should be installed at the bottom of the box or bowl. The cord must be routed out. Next, you need to attach halogen lamps to one axis so that the light is directed upward. Then, at a distance of 20 mm above the lamps, you need to install light filters.

From the prepared material, you need to cut shreds of various sizes, preferably triangular in shape, as they will be more realistic.

The next step is to attach the flaps to the box, bowl along the edges of the fan. When the fan is turned on, a fire that is not real, but very similar to a natural one, will appear in the fireplace. This method is quite simple and makes it possible to create an almost real, mesmerizing flame in the fireplace.

Artificial fire for the fireplace: salt lamp

The use of salt lamps in artificial fireplaces to recreate a decorative flame is beneficial and is considered effective way. A salt lamp is a special lighting device whose lampshade is made of untouched salt crystal. In the inner part of such a lampshade there is a regular light bulb.

When the lamp is connected, the lampshade begins to heat up and release negative ions into the air.

They bind positive ions (from household appliances), which have a detrimental effect on human health, thereby helping to improve the well-being of home residents. The disadvantages of this method include the rather high price of salt lamps, and the advantages: realism, aesthetics and ease of installation.

By using lampshades of various colors, it is possible to effectively and very simply create a non-natural flame in your fireplace yourself. In addition, using several lamps at once different sizes, perhaps make an imitation of a fire.

DIY fireplace replica: TV instead of a fireplace

Another one not the hard way The implementation of a non-natural flame in a fireplace is the use of a flat-panel LCD TV. But this method is considered the most expensive, since such equipment is expensive. Special LCD TVs have been developed that are produced specifically for artificial fireplaces.

They contain video footage of:

• Playing tongues of flame;
• With smoldering coals;
• With a bright fire.

This recording goes on in the hearth of the false fireplace. Sometimes a TV can be supplemented with special optics, which consists of light filters. With its help, the image of fire will be the most expressive and voluminous. In addition to this optics, it is possible to use a mirror system. They are located in the corners of the fireplace, and the picture turns out to be more realistic; such lighting looks very beautiful. In rare cases, it is possible to use holographic installations. But this is not quite profitable.

Decorative firewood for the fireplace

In specialized salons you can find an abundance of options for such products; quite realistic firewood with a natural log pattern is available for sale. They can be plastic or ceramic. Any imitation, purchased or made independently, is intended to add realism to a decorative fireplace to help you feel all the splendor: home comfort, harmony, tranquility and warmth.

Imitation of plastic firewood or coals, has quite a few complex principle work.

Coal and firewood are illuminated with red lighting. The light bulb can be located inside the firewood. Of course, this is not so reliable, but still. More expensive electric fireplaces are characterized by flickering or a picture of artificially transmitted tongues of fantastic flame. This is possible due to a special mechanism in which special elements, rotate around the lamp, alternating with transparent and shaded areas. Such lighting can be located either behind the fake logs, or in the inner part.

Exactly the same lighting system can be used to achieve the effect of fire, using natural coal, which should be placed in the niche of a false fireplace. In this case, the backlight should be placed from the bottom.

A believable imitation of fire in a fireplace with your own hands (video)

So, in an apartment there is absolutely no possibility of installing a real fireplace. However, a fireplace, even if it is artificial, requires imitation of a realistic flame. You can do this yourself in several ways, described above.

Time to make stones!

The combination of an image, metal fittings and a bright, fancy structure of minerals on an object always looks very impressive. Using a small set of acrylic paints and household materials, you can turn a surface of any shape into “stone”.

The pattern on the surfaces of stones can be roughly divided into groups:

Layered,

spotted,

Thread.

For example, malachite is layered, but granite and lapis lazuli are spotted, etc.

1. Cover work surface. Wear an apron or overalls ( acrylic paint If it gets on the fabric it is difficult to remove later), prepare several containers with clean water.

2. Select synthetic brushes: wide flat and round with long bristles (for ease of work, it’s good to have brushes of different sizes on hand).

3. Prepare pieces of a dish sponge, a sea sponge (not necessarily a natural one, an imitation of it can be successfully used), scissors, a toothbrush, napkins, and rags. You will also need fine-grit sandpaper.

4. Select photographs of the stone and a set of paints required in advance.

6. Multi-layer varnishing makes the imitation of a stone surface more natural, so no matter what method and stone you choose, try not to neglect this stage.

Simulation method for layered rocks

Imitation of malachite in decoupage using acrylic paint

Let's look at the example of malachite.

Malachite is a mineral that forms green sinter-shaped masses with a radial fibrous structure.

Light green, dark cobalt green, heavenly, whitewash, ultramarine, natural umber, black.

Additional materials:

Additional materials:

Additional materials:

From the tools:

Sea sponge;

Additional materials:

From the tools:

Sea sponge;

The palette is plastic.

1. Background. On the palette, mix a small amount of Kaput mortuum with white. We get a nice soft color pink tones. There is no need to mix the paints thoroughly, leaving the color uneven.

Using a wide synthetic brush, apply a thick layer of paint to the surface of the workpiece, creating smooth transitions.

2. Stains. Wet the sponge in clean water, squeeze it out, put a small amount of white on it and make impressions, lightly touching the surface.

We fill the workpiece area only partially in this way, about a third. The direction of the applied light paint will serve as the basis for drawing future veins.

3. Veins. Apply Kaput Mortuum paint to a small round brush. Pre-wet the brush generously with water. The consistency of the paint should not be thick.

With a trembling hand and with varying pressure on the brush, we apply a vein and immediately blur its edge with water. We stretch the paint. We finalize the line with lighter translucent shades, paint with the addition of white and well diluted with water.

In the same way we draw all the other lines, including light gray ones.

4. We work again with a sponge with a light color applied to it.

5. Drying and varnishing. Cover the surface with several layers acrylic varnish, dry, level the surface with fine-grained sandpaper. We repeat the operation, gradually diluting the varnish with water. For effectiveness, we recommend applying at least 20 layers of acrylic gloss varnish.

Imitation pink marble is ready.

3. Stains. Dip the sponge into water and squeeze out. Apply Ultramarine to it and walk over the entire surface.

Repeat the operation with Cobalt Blue.

4. Veins. Using a thin round brush, apply whitewash to curved lines and blur their edges with water until the paint has dried.

5. Spray. Use a brush or toothbrush to take white paint diluted with water and spray it over the surface.

Do the same with applying gold paint.

6. Drying and varnishing. We cover the surface with several layers of acrylic varnish, dry it, then level the surface with fine-grained sandpaper.

We repeat the operation, gradually diluting the varnish with water and reducing the graininess sandpaper. For effectiveness, we recommend applying at least 20 layers of acrylic gloss varnish.

And we complete the process with finishing varnish.

The “lapis lazuli” surface is complete.

Imitation of turquoise using monotype technique

Turquoise is an ornamental and semi-precious stone, a mineral popular from ancient times to the present day. Creating a background for the veins and natural spots of this stone deserves special attention.

Colors of paints from the palette of artistic paints "Acrylic Art": Turquoise, Cobalt blue, White,

SweetlaNika gave me a personal link to MK, but the decoration is made of plastic, but I think it can be made from mastic

Wood imitation

Using gold and mother-of-pearl Fimo (in our case, mastic) we imitate wood; to do this, we act as if we were going to make a smooth color transition manually:
Fold the triangles into a square, as shown in the figure.

Let's cut it into several strips, so that each of them has a different ratio of mother-of-pearl and gold.
Now you need to mix each strip until the color is uniform and roll into a ball. The easiest way is to knead as shown in the pictures. Roll into a long sausage, twist it in half and flatten.
After which, roll the resulting flat cake into a sausage again. Repeat the procedure until a uniform shade is obtained.

We received several of these balls, different shades. Looking ahead, I will say that the lightest one turned out to be too much; a large number of light stripes is not good for naturalness.

We roll out these thin sausages from each ball, be sure to use our hands; squeezing from a syringe is not suitable here. The pearlescent scales must curl differently to achieve the effect.
I posted the ruler and template in the photo for neat people like me. This is how I determine approximate size sliced ​​sausages. You see, I have them about two times the length of the template; when we roll them out, they will turn out to be exactly three lengths. (I don’t like a lot of scraps)) In general, you don’t have to bother with this, but just cut it into equal pieces.

You also don’t need to worry about the even thickness of the sausages. After all, the veins in the wood are also uneven.
We fold the resulting sausages into one sheet, pressing lightly against each other, in any order.

We got this canvas of alternating shades.

We take the larger rolling pin and slowly roll out all this splendor. Don’t rush, so as not to accidentally roll it out to a very thin transparent layer.

Voila! We have absolutely wooden surface. The veins turn out to be very natural, since the scales in the metallic plastic “stand on end” along the edges of each sausage and give a dark color, and in the middle each vein plays with a shade, because we rolled it out with our hands and the scales were wrapped randomly. Now it all looks very natural. By the way, it is in this photo that you can clearly see that there are too many light stripes. You need to make them either darker or smaller in number.

This summer I was renovating my room. The idea of ​​making an imitation of brickwork has been bugging my brain for about 2 years. I didn’t want to make a post until I finished everything, but my finances ran out and I only had to make a table. But, however, today we are talking about brickwork, so let's get started.

This is what happened "before"

Here is a sample version of the redevelopment. Due to my stupidity, I didn’t take a photo of the whole room in the original version, and I couldn’t find older photos.
As a result, on the first day I took out the entire room, peeled off the wallpaper, removed the linoleum from the floor, and the ceiling tiles.
Next were the floors. I stretched the logs with 80mm self-tapping screws. I laid 10mm plywood on top. I sealed the seams with wood putty. The floors stopped creaking. I also changed the wiring, installed HDMI for the TV and put the cheapest tile behind the battery.

And now we are approaching bricks. Went the most important stage- marking. For marking I used a marking cord. It costs 200 rubles, and saved a ton of time.
Before starting the marking, I called the ceiling workers, they filled the profile for the ceilings. I danced from him.
according to the markings: The size of the brick is 6.5 by 25 and its seam is 1-1.2mm. It is important to start marking from the ceiling, because in tiled houses the walls are crooked. On a 4.2m wall the difference was 2-3cm.

In order for the tape to hold better, I tacked it with a small amount of solution.
I took 48mm tape, I think, and cut it into 5 pieces with a craft knife. It took about 4 pieces.
Next comes the magic:
put it on top of the tape gypsum plaster, a layer of about 7-10mm, and leveled.

I let it dry a little and then peeled off the tape

You immediately need to check whether everything turned out exactly, because then you had to gouge out some gaps with a screwdriver and a hammer.

Painting:
Painted water-based paint. I used black color. It took about half a liter in total (looking ahead, I’ll say that I still have 5 liters of gray paint left).
The first layer was a primer. It quickly absorbed into the wall. Still plaster. I immediately installed the spots (I really wanted to see what it would look like)

After the second coat I went through all the gaps with white paint. I took a little at a time so that it wouldn’t drip. But even without this, I got into a lot of places where I shouldn’t)
Many may think that everything is cool and without mistakes. But I did it, and I know that there are a lot of mistakes))

Next, I darkened the paint a little and painted over groups of bricks. Then I darkened it again and repeated)
Here I will tell you an important thing: You need to try the paint color on something. I had a plywood floor and I abused it. It is important to have some white paint in stock to adjust the color if you overdo it. At the very end, he took a brush, dipped the very ends into white paint, and with quick, careless movements, went over some bricks.

Actually, let's move on to the drawing on the wall. I ordered a template from a printing company. I’ll also say that I was stupid and overpaid. Made it for me laser cutting, on a 1mm PVC sheet.
It was necessary to stand on a plotter cutting, on film.

There are no more photos left, but the process was something like this:
I glued a soldier template to the wall using a ton of masking tape (I made the inscriptions “Linkin park” and “Hybrid theory” on separate pieces. I also painted it with water-based emulsion.
Next, the template was removed and the fragments were touched up with a thin paint brush. After drying, I also made the inscription “Linkin Park” using a template. I scrawled black paint on the background for the inscription "hybrid theory". For smudges, I made the paint thinner (added water).
Splashed - smudges began to flow)

Let's move on... Poster. I love Rammstein! Opposite the bed according to the TV plan. It is symbolic that the poster has the inscription “Lichtspielhaus” - which translates to “cinema”.
I made the frame myself. Essentially a rectangle with a stiffening rib in the middle. Attached with a stapler.

Separately, I think it’s worth mentioning the wallpaper. I ordered it at the salon. Gave unreasonable money. But others interesting wallpapers Have not found. 3 rolls, 2 pieces each. In the end, 6. was enough just right.
I waited 1.5 months. Because of them, the repairs were delayed.

The TV was given as a birthday present. I took it from the point of view of rationalism. Initially planned as a second monitor for a PC. As a result, I took Akai - 127cm, for 25k rubles. Suitable for my needs. Satisfied.

Shelves. A friend cut the boards to my measurements. I sanded them, painted and varnished them. Well, you don’t need much intelligence to screw everything into one cabinet.
One of the nuances is that I reinforced it with corners inside.

Made a clock from an old record. I have a laser engraver, so I burned the contours with it. What was not burned through was cut out with a burner.
Screw on the clock mechanism and you're done.

It seems like he showed everything... Now for the money:
Plywood for the floor - about 4k
Linoleum - 7k
Putty - 2.5k
Tile - 2k
Wallpaper - 6k
Stretch ceiling - 9k (together with corridor 1.5*3)
Light - 4 spots + chandelier + switches + sockets + dimmer + wires - 9k
Paint, collier, board paint, varnish - 3k
screws (for floor) - 1k
curtain, muslin (blind) - 2.5k
Skirting boards - 1k
Tools (marking cord, rollers, brushes, spatulas, whisk
Stencil + designer's work (translation into vector) + poster printing - 4k
HDMI cable 10m - 1.5k
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Total 52.5k