How to make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands? Homemade table for a manual router Do-it-yourself machine for a router, drawings.

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Milling table significantly increases labor productivity and efficiency of working with a hand router. Purchase production model Such a table for your home milling machine is often unprofitable. It is much more economical to make a table with your own hands. It will not take much time and will require very little financial investment. Any home craftsman can cope with this task if desired.

The question is how to make milling table do it yourself, many home craftsmen ask. This is understandable: equipment on which the milling cutter is fixed motionless and the workpiece moves on a work table specially equipped for this purpose is in many cases much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual router, the workpiece is fixed on a regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which makes it impossible to maintain precision processing.

Using the table for hand router when processing wood products, you can achieve results that allow you to obtain professional milling machines. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed efficiently: cutting shaped holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

You can see the structure of a factory-made milling table in the video below. We will try to do no worse, and in some ways even better and, most importantly, cheaper.

A milling table will give you the opportunity to perform processing not only wooden blanks, but also products made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. Using such a table, you can make grooves and splines, process elements of tongue and groove joints and tongue-and-groove joints, chamfer and create decorative profiles.

A milling table, the production of which does not require large financial expenditures, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies We started manufacturing milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. A homemade table, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior in functionality to models produced in production conditions, and will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option No. 1

Milling table drawings with detailed analysis designs of main components and their dimensions.

Dimensions of parts Sectional table Double-layer table cover Cutout in the first layer of the table Marking the cutout of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cutout according to the markings of the second layer Drawing of the rip fence End plate of the stop Dust extraction pipe Safety shield made of plexiglass Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a milling table from a regular workbench, but it is better to make special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the table for it must be different high resistance and reliability. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, so there must be enough free space under it.

To attach the router to the tabletop, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity. To make such a plate, you can use a metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood. The bases of most router models already have threaded holes; these are what are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and tap them, or use special clamps.

The mounting plate must be located on the same level as the tabletop; for this purpose, a selection of appropriate sizes is made in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for connecting it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others for attaching it to the base of the router. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must have a countersunk head.

To enable your homemade milling machine more convenient, you can place it on the tabletop regular button, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device safer to use. To improve your convenience home machine You can attach a long metal ruler to the table surface.

Before you start designing milling table for your workshop, you need to determine the place where it will be located, and also decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate-type machine (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serving as its extension), compact table machine, free-standing stationary equipment.

You can opt for compact benchtop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you access it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. This installation takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the area of your workshop allows, then it is better to make a stationary milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be placed on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

Simple homemade router ny table. There are questions about the overall strength, but it’s cheap and cheerful.

A simple milling table can be made very quickly. To make a structure that can easily be placed on a regular desktop, you will need a sheet of chipboard on which the guide element is fixed. Suitable as such a guide (and at the same time a stop) regular board small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop using bolted connections. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.

It is necessary to make a hole in a sheet of chipboard to accommodate a router, which will be fixed to the tabletop using two clamps. After this, your compact milling table with guide can be considered ready.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

The bed of a homemade milling installation must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it consists of a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame, frames can be connected by welding metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare simple drawing. It is necessary to indicate on it all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the front side must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the milling machine operator. If you are going to process linings for doors and the ends of facades for them on your homemade machine, then the dimensions of the frame can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of significant characteristics The bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the ease of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is advisable to make the lower parts of the frame supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table.

You can make an inexpensive but very reliable working surface for a homemade milling device from the tabletop of an old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of chipboard sheets 26 or 36 mm thick, coated with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations that occur during operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for a machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) boards with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option No. 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional retractable drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). A list of parts with dimensions and recommended materials of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their sizes Frame Upper corner of the frame bottom corner frame Drawer sliding guide Slider layout Table top Stop drawing Large drawer Small drawer Small drawer front Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine is quite thick, the mounting plate for attaching the router must have a minimum thickness. This will allow you to make maximum use of the reach cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate, with a minimum thickness, should have high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or from a material that is not inferior to it in strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. According to a previously prepared drawing, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the milling cutter sole.

The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the base of the router. Holes for fixing the plate to the table surface are made in its four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the tool base. In order not to make a mistake when manufacturing a plate, you must first prepare its drawing, on which you need to indicate dimensions this part, the diameters and location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the table surface using clamp brackets.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most craftsmen, such a table will be unnecessarily complex, but perhaps someone will learn useful ideas when creating your own equipment.

Milling table assembly

The milling table begins to be assembled by attaching the tabletop to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place on the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, and its outline is traced with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the marked contour, for which a manual milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate fits into it at the same level as the surface of the tabletop.

It will not be possible to make a recess with right angles using a round cutter, so the corners on the plate itself must also be rounded using a file. After fixing it in the tabletop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router base. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the tabletop itself.

When the requirements for equipment are small and there is no desire to mess with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.

To perform such an operation you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high precision. On the back side of the tabletop, it is also necessary to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the operations described above, you can rely on the drawings or photos posted in this article.

The final stage of assembling a homemade milling table is connecting all of it structural elements. First, the router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its base is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the upper surface of the tabletop using self-tapping screws with countersunk heads, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations is the tabletop itself securely fixed to the frame.

Milling table drawings: option No. 3

A compact tabletop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.

Computer model Appearance assembled Rear view Front view The cutter is raised, the flaps are moved apart The cutter is lowered, the flaps are moved Hand-held router Hose from a vacuum cleaner for removing dust and chips Attaching the router and removing chips Adjusting the lift of the cutter The lifting of the cutter is carried out by rotating the screw Adjusting the lift of the cutter Adjusting the overhang of the cutter Plexiglas platform before installation router The glass is precisely fitted to the tabletop The router is screwed to the support platform

Making the top clamp

To do homemade machine safer to use and to ensure the convenience of processing large workpieces on it, it is possible to equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this device, made on the basis of a roller, it is necessary to prepare a drawing.

A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as a roller for the pressing device. Such a roller is mounted on a holding device that allows it to be fixed at any distance from the tabletop. With the help of this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the work table.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

In order for a homemade milling machine to be highly productive and functional, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine to process wood parts with shallow recesses, a 500 W electric motor will be sufficient for it. However, equipment with a low-power drive will often shut down, which will negate any savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The optimal choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power varying between 1–2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device like a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on this machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, drilling machines), as well as on hand tools(drills, grinders, hand routers).

You should pay attention not only to the power, but also to the speed of the electric motor. The higher this indicator, the best quality will result in res. Electric motors, as you know, can be powered from an electrical network with a voltage of 220 and 380 V. There will be no problems connecting the former, but three-phase asynchronous motors will have to be powered using a special star-delta circuit. Connecting according to this scheme will make it possible to use the electric motor at its maximum power and provide it with a smooth start. And if you directly connect such an electric motor to a 220 V network, you will lose 30–50% of its power.

Milling table drawings: option No. 4

Analysis of another design of a self-made milling table, supplemented by a video from the author.

The tabletop is folded down The elevator is organized using a jack Tabletop, top view Movable carriage-support Parallel stop with wings Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner (dust and chip removal) Steel plate for attaching the router Attaching the router sole to the plate Operating principle of the elevator

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

When making a homemade milling machine, you should ensure the safety of working on it. First of all, it is necessary to equip the working tool itself with a protective screen. How such screens are constructed is illustrated by photographs and drawings of professional equipment. Required element Your homemade equipment should have an emergency stop button, the so-called mushroom. It should be placed in an easily accessible place, and the start button should be secured in a place where it will not be accidentally pressed.

Make sure that the processing area is well lit, as this is the most dangerous place of any equipment. If during work you need to frequently change the offset of the cutter, it is worth making a manual or automatic device for raising and lowering the tool (elevator). Such a lift will allow you to use your homemade milling equipment more efficiently and make working on it comfortable and safe. Various designs such elevators can also be found on the Internet.

If desired and necessary, you can constantly upgrade your homemade equipment and turn it over time into a full-fledged coordinate machine with a rotary work table.

Lift for router in this table:

Part 1 - https://youtu.be/RA4-75ijmWg

Part 2 - https://youtu.be/GHqP4Wceu08

March 2015. I finally decided to make a table for the Bosch 1400 ACE manual router, because the last time with the bed (and there I had to mill all the edges of all the parts) I was very tired and spent a lot of time.

The design is hardly unique, because any carpentry fan has already made and laid out his own table for a router, but this is my option and it will not be superfluous for others to experience and review. As always, a lot was decided in the process and improvisedly, for example, to secure the router from the bottom of the table, its side stop, or rather the pins from the side stop, helped me a lot. On the other hand, dismantling the router is now quite problematic, but this is the first milling table and it does its job.

A milling table made from a manual router is easy necessary thing. You will understand this when you run any part in a couple of seconds. Previously, each part had to be pressed against the table with clamps, a passage was made, clamps were changed, the passage was completed, the part was turned over, etc.

A table for a router solves all this instantly, and most importantly, it cost about 500 rubles, while ready-made tables cost an order of magnitude and many times more.

Second part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF7BVRbK4hE

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I think that those home craftsmen who have a manual router, but do not have a table for a router, have more than once thought about buying or making a table for a router. Since using a milling cutter stationary, the ease of working with it greatly increases, especially when working with small elements.

But for a home workshop, a table is often not justified, both for financial reasons, and, for example, in my apartment due to the space it takes up. Therefore, as an option, you can use a small homemade milling table that is attached to universal workbench or even to a regular table.

The simplest milling table

You can make a table from an ordinary piece of chipboard or plywood by screwing a router to it.

But you will need to take thick enough material so that it has the necessary rigidity, and thick material will reduce the output of the cutter and thereby reduce the depth of the grooves being machined. Therefore, it is still worth making a box for the tabletop that will provide rigidity and reduce the thickness of the tabletop.

In addition, it will be very useful if the table has a side support with adjustment and the ability to attach a vacuum cleaner.

Removing shavings and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner is very important when working in an apartment, and in the workshop, order and cleanliness will also not hurt.

This article describes how to make such a table for a router yourself.

Let's start with the box

First of all, the table box is made; for this you will need two pieces of thick plywood 18-21mm, which are glued together with PVA glue and tightened with clamps.

In total we will need 4 blanks.

In one of the blanks, using a hacksaw, we cut two grooves for clamps. IN in this case We make several cuts along the width of the groove with a hacksaw, and remove the remaining plywood between the cuts with a chisel and hammer.

We make a tabletop

You need to cut out the tabletop, apply markings (the location of the cutter and holes for fasteners) for a specific router.

We mark the holes for the screws securing the tabletop to the frame.

When everything is marked, we drill all the holes with a drill, and you also need to countersink the holes for the screws, then the countersunk screw will be deepened, will not protrude beyond the surface of the tabletop and therefore will not interfere with the movement of workpieces along the surface of the milling table.

Assembling the table

For this we need screws and a screwdriver.

Here is the table base assembled.

When the table is assembled, you need to twist two rods into the box through the tabletop.

A rod is used on one side of which there is a “thread like a screw”, and on the other there is a regular thread for a nut.

In the future, a side stop for the router will be installed at these levels using the wings.

Side stop

Let's start making the side support.

For this we need two plywood blanks.

DIY milling tables (drawings, videos and diagrams)

One workpiece will be pressed against the table, and the part processed by the router will slide along the second.

We drill holes through which the two workpieces will be combined into a single whole. We countersink them.

We use a Forstner drill to make cutouts for the cutter.

Using a hacksaw, we refine the cutouts for the cutter and make grooves for the side stop clamping mechanism.

Using rectangular plywood blanks, we assemble two side support blanks at 90 degrees.

We assemble the box for connecting the vacuum cleaner.

Now you need to build the nozzle into the dust removal box and screw the box itself to the side stop.

All that remains is to press the side stop to the table for the manual router using the thumbs.

This elegant and compact table for a router can be made by anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands.

And this is a router in the table in the process of removing a quarter with a straight groove cutter.

In the future it would be worth making a protective screen for the cutter and spot lighting working area and an emergency stop button for the router.

Tips for making your own milling table

When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, tries to find universal option, combine the precision of machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with our own hands; drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a milling table with your own hands, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece.

If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then manual typewriter becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.

It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location.

It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands.

The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.

Basic elements of a milling table

Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

bed;
table top;
mounting plate;
longitudinal stop;
pressing combs.

bed

You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes).

We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use old table, nightstand.
Anything that allows you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of load-bearing structure machine

When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself.

Homemade table for a hand router

Only by taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

Table top

For work surface Convenient to use kitchen countertop.

But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged.

The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine.

The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded for installation mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.

For greater machine functionality and part processing capabilities different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop.

They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.

Mounting plate

The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table.

It is made from durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top.

Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly on bottom part countertops. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table.

The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the table top. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction.

Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

Pressing combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure.

Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.

If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
Mount the protective glass on the longitudinal support, which will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
using cutters large diameter, reduce the rotation speed;
disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.

DIY milling machine

Do-it-yourself milling table: drawings, photos, videos

Translated by SaorY for mozgochiny.ru

Everyone brain craftsmen Good day!

For those of you who don’t have large workshops or small tool racks, this will come in handy homemade this article, which compactly fits all useful tools, and which can be easily moved to other work sites.

When creating this brain games I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it could be used comfortably even in small space, and move even if you don’t have a car.

For this purpose, it has transport wheels, and can be moved under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, you will only need a little help when loading.

This compact machine is homemade includes: circular table, router table and jigsaw. It also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.

Useful link

To show under the tree in action I'll make a couple of boxes out of cheap pine boards.
The video shows how I cut boards for boxes into circular table using a sled, to obtain the required dimensions I use an additional strip with a clamp.

Then I make a groove for the base.
The right angle can be obtained using an angle stop with a guide.
By removing the cover, you can set the angle of the disc, in this case 45 degrees.
The jigsaw guide is adjustable in three axes, thereby you can use blades of different sizes - from 100 to 180mm, thereby obtaining maximum height 70mm cut.

Next, I make a handle for the drawer, and for this I use a router, which I use to create a rounded chamfer. There is also a guide for the miter gauge, and a remote bearing will also be useful for milling curved lines. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45°.
The box is ready and it is in its designated place.

The tongue-and-groove connection is possible on this brain table do it in two ways. First, using a jigsaw, an additional strip and a miter gauge.

And secondly, on a circular table, using a special conductor.

With the disk itself big size, which can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. There are small adjustment bolts on the guide to reduce the tilt and, if necessary, even to lock it.

To connect the parts, I chose the second method; for this, some parts should be placed on one side of the jig, and others on the other.

And this is what happened, we move on to the router, this time we use a clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, you need to raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45°.

Step 1: Cutting the parts

The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade products from cutting all the parts and numbering them.
Next, to obtain a handle slot, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw.

Then holes are drilled the same size as the diameter and thickness of the opening system washer. The holes are countersunk.

After this, a place is prepared for installing the power buttons and emergency shutdown. Then, using dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled brain table.

If desired, the body parts are treated with varnish, so craft It will look better and last longer.

Having prepared the body, the 3 upper parts are assembled. To do this, parts of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled in them. The hole for the tube is drilled of such a diameter that the tube can rotate freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged lids.

Then a cavity is selected for the circular saw. I did this using my 3D router; in the absence of something similar, this can be done with a regular router using the appropriate jigs and guides.

On the front side of the circular table cover, a cavity is selected for a quick-release panel, by removing which you can change the angle of inclination of the disk.

The panel itself can be used to adjust the milling depth of the cavity.

Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes for its fastening are marked. A 3D milling machine is well suited for this, because these holes cannot be drilled on a drilling machine due to its limited working surface.

Step 2: Start Build

At this stage, the gradual assembly of a portable multifunctional machine for the workshop begins do-it-yourselfer.

The groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two additional pieces of plywood will provide the necessary depth to securely attach the guide strip. Next, a strip with a self-adhesive tape measure applied to it is attached to the lid.

After this, a hole for the router is drilled. Then the tubes for the rotation axes are cut off and the frames of the hinged covers are mounted on the body. In accordance with the drawings, fixing supports are manufactured and installed.

The router cover is applied to the frame, aligned and secured with self-tapping screws through holes in the guide channel.

Then the jigsaw cover is prepared, a groove for this same jigsaw is selected in it. If a material with a non-sliding surface, such as melamine, is used for the cover, then the surface of this cover should be varnished, alternating with sanding.

Having done this, the parts of the vertical lift mechanism of the router are cut out and assembled, with the help of which the milling depth will be adjusted.

A hole of the same diameter, or a suitable one, is drilled into them as when creating the router cover. This holder brain milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.

The finished router holder is attached to a vertical lift, and now you can try it in action.

To mark the radius of the tilt grooves, ordinary hinges are temporarily attached to the vertical lift, and scraps of plywood are used to make revolving handles.

Step 3: Completing the Assembly

This stage of assembly homemade products I'll start with those details that I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.

First, the base parts are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame, which is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional body brain table. The height of this frame should be the same as the height of the existing wheels.

A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged lids, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. This may be useful during transportation crafts and act as a preventive measure against theft of your instrument.

The socket for the circular saw is connected through the power button and the emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound around special handles made for this purpose.

The quick release panels are made from opal methacrylate. They are placed in place, and the slot in the circular saw panel is carefully made by the saw itself. I used an accessory from an old router kit as a guide bearing.

This attachment will be useful when routing curved lines.

After this, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part crafts If the hinged covers do not lie in the plane of the central part, this can be easily corrected by adjusting the tilt of the fixing supports.

milling table for hand router

Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the router axis and the table plane is checked, and the parallelism of the guide channel and circular disk. And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.

After this, the table covers are folded to check whether they interfere brain tools each other.

Step 4: Useful Tools

This step talks about making some useful accessories for the table - homemade products.

First of all, the parts of the slide are cut, then a groove is selected for the guide slider. After that two plywood parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, and the positions of the screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent refinement of this part.

Then a measuring tape is glued onto it in a specially prepared groove, and this accessory for brain table varnished, alternating with sanding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.

The slides are assembled and placed on the multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and a middle cut is cut, and then a measuring tape is glued on.

The guide slider is unscrewed from the sled and a groove is made for the tongue and groove conductor. Same as my other circular table.

The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can be stopped if necessary by simply twisting the bot to the maximum.

Dowels glued into this fixing system are used as axle guides. At the end of the rack assembly, the locking system handle is made, and then the entire rack is tested in action.

Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the stand, and on the side brain-resistant Threaded bushings for the pressure panel are screwed into the dust collector.

Having done this, the parallelism of the stand and the circular disk is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.

Having finished this, the parts of the tongue and groove jig are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.

Step 5: A few more useful gadgets

This is the last video of this brain guides, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can paste a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the most multifunctional machine.

The thread in the guide slider is inch, but if you need a metric one, you will have to use a tap.

It is definitely worth temporarily screwing the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is correct.

Then the parts of the tenon conductor are cut, and in order to reduce friction it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor fastening.

To make a pressure panel on plywood blank a template is glued, the adjustment grooves for this panel are selected using a router brain machine. Threaded bushings are mounted in the required places on the cover with the router.

First, a bearing adjustment system is assembled to avoid wear of the plywood using a metal plate.

One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings.

The same thing is done with plywood.

After this, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the required position.

Finally, the finished saw guide can be tested in action, and it is important to hold the board being sawed with both hands so that it fits firmly enough to the plane of the table.

About the compact multifunctional homemade That's it, good luck in your creativity!

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How to make a reliable milling table with your own hands?
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The question of how to make a milling table yourself is asked by many home craftsmen. This is understandable: equipment on which the milling cutter is fixed motionless and the workpiece moves on a work table specially equipped for this purpose is in many cases much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual router, the workpiece is fixed on a regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which makes it impossible to maintain precision processing.

A router table significantly increases labor productivity and efficiency when working with a hand router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home. It is much more economical to make a milling table yourself. It will not take much time and will require very little financial investment. Any home craftsman can cope with this task if desired.

Using a homemade table for a manual router when processing wood products, you can achieve results that can be obtained with professional milling machines. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed efficiently: cutting shaped holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

You can see the structure of a factory-made milling table in the video below. We will try to do no worse, and in some ways even better and, most importantly, cheaper.

A homemade milling table, which you will equip your home machine with, will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden workpieces, but also products made from chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With the help of such a homemade milling table, you will be able to make grooves and splines, process elements of tongue-and-groove joints and tongue-and-groove joints, chamfering and creating decorative profiles.

A homemade table for a router, the production of which does not require large financial expenditures, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. You will only need to secure the tool itself - a manual router, for which you can use a stand drilling machine or workbench. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies have started manufacturing milling tables and accessories for them, but you will have to pay a decent amount of money for such a device. A homemade table for equipping a milling machine, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior in functionality to models produced in production conditions, and it will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option No. 1

Drawings of a milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main components and their dimensions.

Drawings of a homemade table for a manual router (click to enlarge)

Dimensions of parts Sectional table Double-layer table cover Cutout in the first layer of the table
Marking the cutout of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cutout according to the markings of the second layer Drawing of the rip fence
Stop end plate Dust extraction pipe Plexiglas safety shield Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a homemade milling table from a regular workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a milling cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the bed used to fix the milling cutter must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop for the milling table, so there must be enough free space under it.

When attaching the device to the top of a homemade table for a manual router, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for a milling machine. Such a plate can be made of metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood. The bases of most router models already have threaded holes; these are what are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads into them, or use special clamps for a milling machine.

The clamps for the milling machine or the mounting plate must be located at the same level as the tabletop; for this purpose, the latter is sampled with the appropriate dimensions. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary to connect it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others so that such a plate can be fixed to the base of the router. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must have a countersunk head.

To make turning on your device more convenient, you can place a regular button on the tabletop, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device safer in operation. To increase the convenience of your home machine, you can attach a long metal ruler to the surface of a milling table made for a manual router with your own hands.

Before you start constructing a milling coordinate table with your own hands, you need to determine the place where it will be located, and also decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate router with your own hands (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serving as its extension), a compact desktop machine, or free-standing stationary equipment.

You can opt for compact benchtop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you access it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. This installation, which is distinguished small sizes, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the size of your workshop allows, then it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine for the milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be placed on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but it’s cheap and cheerful.

A simple milling table or table for a drilling machine can be made very quickly. To make such a structure, which can easily be placed on a regular desktop, you will need a sheet of chipboard on which the guide elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for a milling table, an ordinary board of small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop using bolted joints, is suitable. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.

To insert a router into a table, you will need to make a hole in a sheet of chipboard to accommodate it, and it will be fixed to the tabletop using two clamps. After this, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of this design more convenient, you can place simple clamps for a milling machine on the tabletop.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

The bed of a homemade milling installation must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it consists of a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame of the bed, you can use metal profiles connected by welding, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare drawings of such a device. They must indicate all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the ease of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is advisable to make the lower parts of the frame supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table. To make a turntable with your own hands, just fix special wheels on its legs.

The assembly of approximately such a table is discussed in option No. 2

You can make a low-price, highly reliable milling table from the top of an old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of chipboard sheets 26 or 36 mm thick, coated with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations that occur during operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for a machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) boards with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option No. 2

Table of table parts and their dimensions Frame Upper corner of the frame Lower corner of the frame
Guide for sliding drawers Guide layout diagram Table top Stop drawing
Large drawer Small drawer Small drawer front Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine is quite thick, the mounting plate for attaching the router must have a minimum thickness. This will allow maximum use of the cutting tool reach. It is clear that such a plate, with a minimum thickness, should have high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. Using previously prepared drawings, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the milling cutter sole.

The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the base of the router. Holes for fixing the plates to the table surface, which are used as clamps for the milling machine, are made in their four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the tool base. In order not to make a mistake when manufacturing a plate, you must first prepare a drawing of it, on which you must indicate the overall dimensions of this part, the diameters and the location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the table surface using clamp brackets.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most craftsmen, such a table will be unnecessarily complex, but perhaps someone will gain useful ideas when creating their own equipment.

Milling table assembly

A universal milling table or begin to assemble by attaching the table top to the finished frame. The mounting plate is applied to the place on the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, and its outline is traced with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the marked contour, for which a manual milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate fits into it at the same level as the surface of the tabletop.

When the requirements for equipment are small and there is no desire to mess with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.

PROMA, priced at about 6 thousand rubles, is one of the cheapest factory milling tables

The final stage of assembling a homemade milling table is connecting all its structural elements. First, the router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its base is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the upper surface of the tabletop using self-tapping screws with countersunk heads, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations is the tabletop itself securely fixed to the frame.

Milling table drawings: option No. 3

A compact tabletop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.

Computer model External view assembled Rear view Front view
The cutter is raised, the doors are moved apart The cutter is lowered, the doors are moved Hand-held router A hose from a vacuum cleaner for removing dust and chips
Attaching the router and removing chips Adjusting the lift of the cutter Lifting the cutter is carried out by rotating the screw Adjusting the lift of the cutter
Setting the extension of the cutter Plexiglas platform before installing the router The glass is precisely adjusted to the tabletop The router is screwed to the support platform

Making the top clamp

When wondering how to make a home-made machine safer to use and ensure ease of processing large workpieces on it, you can equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this device, made on the basis of a roller, it is also necessary to prepare drawings.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

In order for the homemade wood router you made to be highly productive and functional, you need to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine to process wood parts with shallow recesses, a 500 W electric motor will be sufficient for it. However, equipment with a low-power drive will often shut down, which will negate any savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The optimal choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power varying between 1–2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device as a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on this machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, drilling machines), as well as on hand tools (drills, grinders, hand routers).

We offer you tabletops, plates, and ready-made kits for milling and saw tables. All of the above is produced on CNC machines, i.e. factory-made!

Minimum cost ready-made kit 16500 RUR, which consists of:
-tabletop made of laminated plywood 800x600x27 mm. with profile for working with additional tools
-aluminum parallel fence with dust extraction and sliding cheeks
-plate for any model of router (stainless steel/steel with engraved ruler)

Other configurations or self-assembly from components are possible!

Shipping to TK regions! Pickup from Klinsky district. M.O.
For pickup, get a 3% discount on all products!

Ready-made kits, tabletops, underframes, fixtures and much more (clamps, clamps, cutters, etc.) on my website: frezer-stol.

The photo shows tabletops, plates for routers, circular saws and ready-made mobile kits!
Tabletop characteristics:
Plywood - GRADE 1, furniture grade, smooth lamination on both sides.
The thickness of the coating (film) has been increased from 120/120 to 220/220 g/sq.m., which makes it more wear-resistant to abrasion and moisture-resistant.
For milling tables there is a milled platform for steel plates (size 350 x 250 mm, other plate sizes are possible) on which they are mounted different models hand cutters or circular saws!
Adjustment pins are installed in the corners to level the plate into a plane. We have plates available for Triton, Elmos, Makita, Hitachi, Bosch, etc. as well as some other models. There are also universal plates, stainless steel top/bottom steel, without holes for mounting a router with a marking scale and ruler, for the possibility of independently marking and installing your own router. The accuracy of the metric ruler applied by laser on the plate, according to GOST..
In addition, we have blades for CIRCULAR saws, with or without mounting holes for some models (for self-installation)!
There are countertops measuring 800x600 with a stainless lining and mounting holes for a specific cutter model. There is a photo showing an example of a table top for Makita 2300 (2301).
The cost of the plate is 350x250x6 mm. for milling cutters:
stainless steel/metal/laser marking of ruler - 3500 rub.
There are also side parallel stops for them.
Full kits are available, which include:
table top,
plate for router, (circular)
- standard rip fence,
-parallel aluminum stop on the moving shaft
-metal underframe (bed) with brake wheel supports.
For those who like everything in one, there is a tabletop 800x1200 for installing a router and a circular saw in one tabletop, with one common parallel stop. I'm also attaching a photo.
In addition, there are blanks for the base of tabletops 800x600x27 mm. For self-assembly in which all the necessary milling for the profile and window for the plate have already been made. The cost of such blanks starts from 3500 rubles.

Woodworkers treat their router tables with respect. And there's a good reason for this. Often, milling tables allow you to achieve results that were previously only available to professional furniture workshops with milling machines. Profiling edges and making joints are done easily, neatly and safely with their help. It is therefore not surprising that many companies rushed to satisfy the indomitable appetite of carpenters by producing a wide range of milling tables and accessories for them. However, homemade milling tables are sometimes not inferior to branded ones, and any amateur can make a simple milling table with his own hands.

Regardless of whether you want to make a milling table with your own hands or buy a branded one, you need to navigate their designs in order to end up with a table that is most suitable for the size of the workshop, the specifics of the work and the budget. Making a milling table with your own hands provides a unique opportunity to get what you want. You choose the options you would like, including table size and base design.

Milling table type. First of all, there should be a clear idea of what type of milling table you need: standalone (stationary), tabletop (portable) or a side extension of the saw table (aggregate). If you work outside the workshop or only use your router table occasionally, consider a portable option. To save space, it can be removed or hung on the wall. If you have enough space, a freestanding router table will provide maximum convenience. Place it on wheels and place it where it is most convenient. A freestanding (or portable) router table can be set up to perform an operation and left for a while without interfering with other devices, machines and tools.

Table cover material. Manufacturers offer milling tables with covers made of various materials. Most make covers from MDF boards covered with plastic or melamine-coated. They are flat, inexpensive and durable. They are also easy to cut and machine if you need to upgrade your router table. Since the grooves in the MDF board wear out quite quickly, manufacturers equip such covers with aluminum profiles for longitudinal and movable stops. Remember also that MDF absorbs moisture and can swell when high humidity. To reduce moisture absorption, seal all open edges of the MDF board.

Some manufacturers make router table tops from phenolic plastic, which is very strong, hard and durable. Such tables are perfectly level and flat lids, completely impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are well processed, making it possible to make grooves for a movable stop and aluminum profiles with a T-shaped groove or slotted holes for attaching a longitudinal stop. The disadvantage of such covers is their higher price - 10-20% more expensive than MDF.

If you prefer the reliability of metal, you can choose from aluminum, sheet steel and cast iron covers. They are smoothly polished, have smooth surfaces and are very durable. In most cases, they have a groove for a movable stop-carriage. Keep in mind that you will have to protect steel and cast iron lids from rust. Aluminum covers do not rust, but are also susceptible to corrosion. Aluminum without a special coating (plating) can leave dirty marks on workpieces.

Groove for movable stop. Milling tables are designed primarily for processing the longitudinal edges of workpieces. If you need to mill a groove across the board, then most milling tables have a built-in profile with a groove for a standard movable stop-carriage, purchased separately. This groove also serves as a convenient place for installing additional devices, such as clamping combs. Some craftsmen, instead of a movable stop sliding in the groove of the lid, use homemade slides that move along the longitudinal (parallel) stop. With such a slide, the part is perpendicular to the longitudinal stop, regardless of whether it is parallel to the groove in the cover or not.

Router attachment. Most router tables have a mounting plate for attaching the router, installed in the opening of the rebated lid. The router is screwed through holes in the base to a plate, which is usually made of phenolic plastic, aluminum or polycarbonate. The inserts can be purchased separately and fitted to the router table.

Mounting the router to a removable plate has two advantages over mounting directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the plate saves from 6 to 10 mm in milling depth, in contrast to the option of attaching the router to a cover with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router. You will experience this benefit when you need to replace the cutter.

The plate should be flush with the surface of the milling table cover. If this is not the case, the workpiece will catch on the protruding edges. Make sure the table top or plate has adjustment screws or other leveling devices to ensure the plate is level with the top surface.

Some manufacturers make the plates slightly convex. Bend under the weight of a heavy router, such plates become flat rather than concave.

Cutters can have a diameter of less than 3 mm and more than 76 mm, so choose an insert with interchangeable rings to change the diameter of the opening, as shown in the photo.

If you want a more advanced device, purchase a plate equipped with a lift (see "Milling lifts").

Longitudinal stop. Unless you use bearing cutters, most milling operations require a rip fence to guide the workpiece. For proper operation it should be at least level along its entire length, perpendicular to the surface of the table and easily adjustable. Its movable face plates, which slide in and out to adjust clearances around the cutter, provide a significant advantage in operation. The ability to move one of the pads on some models allows you to joint the edges of workpieces (photo on the right). This option will be in demand if there is no planing machine.

It is also worth choosing a longitudinal stop with a T-slot or other fastening system for clamping combs, side stops and special devices. If the support is not equipped with a vacuum cleaner connection, purchase it separately. By connecting the hose of a vacuum cleaner or cyclone, you can catch most of the dust and chips generated during operation of the router. Most commercial rip fences are equipped with such connections, as is the homemade fence described in the article "Rip fence for a router table."

Homemade milling table

The simplest version of a homemade milling table is a sheet, for example chipboard, with a hole for a milling cutter, and a board that acts as a guide, fixed with clamps. The photo below is not the most rational example: the board can be much thinner and narrower, and a large area of the sheet is not used.

Whether to make legs to put this structure on a table, or to mount it between two tables, or between two stools, or something else - that’s what’s more convenient for you. This device is enough if you want to try your router as a milling machine.

The next option is not much more complicated, but much more thorough.

You can make a more complex milling table with your own hands.

Next comes detailed description making this homemade milling table, so if you are satisfied simple options, you don’t have to read any further and start making a simple milling table.

Making a table for a hand router

Milling table cover. Cut a piece of birch plywood for the panel (A) and a piece of laminate for the cover (B) to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials and Parts", remembering to add a 25 mm allowance for length and width.

Following the instructions on the can, apply contact adhesive to reverse side plastic and the top side of plywood. Glue the plastic to the plywood, stepping back about 3 mm from its corner. Roll the plastic tightly with a rubber roller.

Pressing the plastic-free edges of the plywood against the parallel (longitudinal) stop of the sawing machine, saw about 6 mm of material from the opposite edges, sawing through the plywood and plastic at the same time. Now, pressing the edges that have already been sawn clean against the stop, cut the opposite sides of the part (A/B) to the final size.

Saw long (C) and short (D) edge caps with an allowance of about 25 mm. Make bevels at the ends to cover the edges of the lid. Glue them to the edges of the lid and secure with clamps, aligning the top sides with the surface of the plastic. To do this, make leveling blocks by making 50x50mm cutouts on four pieces of 19x100x100mm plywood (the cutouts allow you to see corner joints). Secure them with clamps to the lid, as shown in the photo below. To prevent the clamps from interfering with work, place cuttings of boards under their lower jaws. Now glue the edge strips to the lid, pressing them against the leveling blocks.

Install a 19 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine and attach a wooden pad about 250 mm high to the parallel (longitudinal) fence. Adjust the position of the disc and the pick fence in the edge plates (D) of the tongues for installation aluminum profile. Check your settings on the scraps and change them if necessary. While pressing the plastic-covered side of the lid against the stop, cut tongues into the edge strips (D). Use a backing block to prevent chipping at the saw blade exit.

Using the same groove disk, cut out a tongue in a test cut of the board and check how the miter gauge slide fits into it. It should move freely along the tongue with minimal play. Adjust settings if necessary. Place the cover with the plastic side down and cut a groove in it for the miter gauge. To avoid chipping at the exit of the saw blade, use a support block.

Hole for mounting plate. To make a cutout in the cover for the router mounting plate, follow the steps shown below.

Step 1. Cut the mounting plate to size and place it exactly in the middle of the cover, 125mm from the front edge.

Step 2. Trace the outline of the plate on the lid.

Step 3: Mark and draw the cutout lines inside the outlined outline.

Step 4. Drill the entry hole for the jigsaw blade and cut the cutout according to the markings.

Step 5. Glue the mounting plate inside the outlined outline with double-sided tape.

Step 6. Using clamps, secure the guide strips around the plate, inserting thin cardboard spacers.

Step 7: Remove the plate and spacers. Install a copying cutter with an upper bearing into the router collet. With the router sole resting on the guide bars, set the routing depth to 3 mm in the table top.

Step 8: Begin routing the rebate by guiding the cutter bearing along the edges of the guide strips. Make several shallow passes, increasing the overhang of the cutter until the depth is 0.5 mm greater than the thickness of the mounting plate.

Aligning the router mounting plate flush with the table surface is easy if you install self-locking nuts in the corners of the recess. Having made a recess, drill a hole in each corner with a diameter of 11 and a depth of 6 mm for a self-locking nut. Make sure the nuts in the holes do not protrude. Drill in the center of the holes for the nuts through holes for the screws, and then follow the four simple steps shown in the photo below to install the adjustment system.

Once the glue has hardened, replace the 50mm long screw with a 13mm long screw. To make adjustments without tools, use an oversized adjusting screw.

Sand the edge adjustments smoothly (C), (D) sandpaper 220 grit. The sharp edges of the plastic around the recess for the mounting plate and along the groove for the miter gauge-carriage are slightly dulled with a scraper.

Router table base. Cut the legs (E) and tie rods (F) to the specified length, leaving an allowance of about 25 mm in width. Tilt the saw blade 12° and cut the bevels on the edges of the tie rods and the edges of the legs. Cut out the plank to the specified dimensions for power cord(G).

Glue the ties (F) to the legs (E) and secure them with clamps. Drill and countersink pilot holes through the ties. Screw in the screws and remove the clamps. Glue the strip for the power cord to the tie, securing it with clamps. Sand the assembled legs smoothly with 220-grit sandpaper.

Place the inverted lid on the workbench and glue the assembled legs to it, pressing them with clamps. Drill and countersink pilot holes through the tie rods and into the lid. Screw in 4.5x32mm countersunk screws.

Longitudinal stop. To make the stop even, it is necessary to carefully trim the edges perpendicular to the faces. First, cut out the stop itself (H) and its base (I) to the specified dimensions (see figure below), adding allowances of about 12 mm in width and 25 mm in length. Sand one edge of each board. Install the longitudinal stop of the sawing machine, adding 0.8-1.0 mm to the final width of the parts, and file the unplaned edges. Set the planer to the appropriate planing depth and sand the newly cut edges. Measure the exact length of the finished router table cover and add 1 mm to this measurement. File the stop and its base to length according to the resulting size (the extra millimeter allows the stop to move more easily). Using a band saw or jigsaw, make 38x38mm cutouts for the router bit in the middle of both pieces. Glue the stop to the base and secure the gluing with clamps.

Cut two blanks measuring 19x120x190 mm for the end plates (K). Connect both blanks into a block using double-sided tape. Mark a diagonal cut line and the center of a 6 mm diameter hole on the top workpiece according to the figure below. Make a cut, sand the edges to the marking line and drill a hole. Separate the end plates.

Glue the end plates (K) to the fence (H/I), aligning their edges with the front of the fence, and secure with clamps. Drill guide holes through the end plates in the places indicated in the figure, countersink them and screw in the screws. Using a groove blade set to the width of the T-slot aluminum profile, cut a groove into the assembled stop (K/H/K) at the front. Finish sand the finished stop with 220 grit abrasive.

Cut out the gussets (J) for mounting the dust extraction pipe according to the dimensions shown in the figure below. Having temporarily installed the gussets on the stop, determine and mark their exact position. Then glue them to the stop, securing them with clamps. When the glue has dried, attach the flange pipe to the gussets and mark the centers of the mounting holes for the screws.

shield. Cut out the shield holder (L) to the specified dimensions (see figure below). Make roundings with a radius of 12 mm on its upper corners. To make slotted holes, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm in the indicated places, draw tangent lines from one hole to another and make cuts along these lines using a jigsaw or jigsaw. Give the holder a final sand with 220 grit sandpaper.

Cut out a shield (M) from transparent acrylic plexiglass 6 mm thick to the specified dimensions. Using a sander, make it external corners rounding with a radius of 12 mm. Using double-sided tape, glue the shield to the holder, aligning the back sides. Drill and countersink mounting holes through the shield (M) into the holder (L). Remove the shield and set it aside.

Pressure comb. From a straight-layer maple board 19 mm thick, cut a 51x457 mm blank for the clamping combs. Using a miter fence on your saw, make 30° bevels on both ends of the workpiece (see picture below). Draw oblique lines across the workpiece, 67 mm from the ends, and then mark the radii of the upper ends of both clamps.

Place a regular 3mm thick blade into the saw and lift it to a height of 50mm above the saw table. Move the longitudinal stop 2 mm from the disc. Press the long edge of the workpiece against the fence and make a cut to the marking line, then carefully move the board back. A good tool for this operation would be a pusher with rubber pad, used with a planer. Rotate the workpiece 180° and repeat the operation at the other end. Move the rip fence 5 mm and make new cuts at both ends. Repeat the operations, making cuts at regular intervals until the 45 mm mark. When the rip fence is at this mark, lower saw blade to a height of 25 mm and saw the edge of the workpiece to the final width.

Drill 7mm holes in the clamps (N) for the hanger and slot holes. Mark the edges of the slot holes parallel lines and cut them out using a jigsaw or jigsaw machine, then band saw cut out curves on the upper ends of the clamps. Sand the pressure combs with 220 grit sandpaper.

Cut out the stop blocks (O) to the specified dimensions and drill a 7mm diameter hole in the center. Sand the stop blocks with 220 grit sandpaper. Stop blocks are installed close to the long edges of the clamping combs to prevent them from turning when feeding the workpiece.

There is a simple and quick way adjusting the pressure of the clamping comb on the workpiece. Make the first clamp plate 3 mm shorter than the others. When adjusting the comb, press this first shortened blade against the workpiece. Now align the bottom ends of the remaining blades parallel to the router table surface and secure the comb by tightening the screw.

Mounting plate. Working with a milling table will become more convenient and safer if the diameter of the hole in the mounting plate is only slightly larger than the diameter of the cutter. You can purchase a ready-made plate with interchangeable rings suitable for different diameters cutters and suitable for most cases. Or you can make a plate that exactly matches the diameter of the cutter. A birch plywood plate will be inexpensive, but for a more solid option, we recommend choosing cast polycarbonate. Place the plate face up on a flat surface. Remove the plastic sole from the router and glue it with double-sided tape to the plate, also face up. Make sure that the sole is located exactly in the center of the plate and is oriented so that it will be comfortable to work with the router installed in the table. Place a drill bit in the drill press that is the same diameter as the mounting holes in the soleplate. Using them as guides, drill corresponding holes through them in the plate. Remove the soleplate and countersink the drilled mounting holes. Now attach the plate with screws to the switched off router and place it on the workbench. Clamp a short 8mm drill bit in the router collet and lower the motor until the tip of the drill touches the plate. Rotate the collet several times by hand to mark the center. Remove the mounting plate from the router. Install a hole saw or hole cutter into the drilling machine chuck and use the finished mark to make a central hole of the required diameter in the plate.

Finishing and adding fittings. Extra sand the areas that need it. Following the instructions on the can, apply two coats of a penetrating oil coating to all wooden parts, including a recess for the router mounting plate and a groove for the miter gauge. Compared to varnish or paint, oil-based finishes are easier to freshen up by reapplying them. They also reliably impregnate grooves, holes and recesses without reducing their size.

Using a hacksaw, cut off pieces of T-slot aluminum profile to match the length of the table and rip fence. The sawn ends will have to be drilled and countersunk for new mounting holes. Through them in the profile, drill guide holes in the table cover and stop; secure both sections of the profile with screws.

Install an additional push-button switch.

Attach the safety shield (M) to the holder (L) with 4.5x25mm countersunk brass screws. Install the assembled shield, clamping combs with locking blocks on the parallel stop, and it, in turn, on the milling table, using hex bolts, washers and handwheel handles with nuts for fastening, as shown in the figures. Attach the dust extraction pipe to the gussets on the back of the stop with screws.

Screw the adjusting screws into the self-locking nuts. By grinding the corners of the router mounting plate, ensure that it fits snugly into the recess of the table top.

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