How to make anti-slip shoe pads with your own hands. How to make Spikes for Shoes (Ice drifts) with your own hands? Ice drifts with removable rubber pads

Winter is a rather traumatic period, especially during icy conditions. Although utility services sprinkle the sidewalks with sand or salt; during such periods, pedestrians should be very careful. Slippery soil, combined with inappropriate shoes and irresponsibility when moving, can cause a fall and, as a result, injury in the form of a bruise, sprain, or fracture. To protect yourself in icy conditions, it is not enough to just be careful when walking. It is necessary to select boots with non-slip soles and additionally use anti-ice pads on shoes, purchased in a store or made by yourself.

Least slippery shoes

When choosing winter shoes, you need to pay attention not only to their appearance, convenience, price and brand, but also the quality of the sole. You should take a good look, because if it is not intended for walking on ice, the consequences can be dangerous - from discomfort when worn to injury. When purchasing, you should try on several pairs of shoes, trying to feel their grip on the floor in the store.

You need to stop your gaze on boots with grooved soles. Best option- a tread with uniform deep relief directed in different directions. It will provide excellent grip on icy surfaces. The heel should be wide enough, stable, and not too high. It is better if the sole of the shoe is made of soft material, which will not harden in the cold: rubber, polypropylene, polyurethane. A great option is to buy boots made in countries that are familiar with cold winter weather.

If you still make a mistake in your choice, and the boots turn out to be unsuitable for walking on ice, you can use anti-slip shoe pads, purchased in a store or made with your own hands.

Professional overlays

There are several types of factory-made devices that are attached to the sole and protect against slips and falls. Anti-slip shoe pads are produced for both UGG boots and regular boots. They are easy to put on and take off. The most common devices that can be purchased at any hardware store are:

• ice drifts - anti-slip linings on shoes that envelop bottom part boot, providing a braking effect on an icy surface;
• ice access devices - devices similar to ice drifts, but additionally equipped with spikes (most often in the toe area) that guarantee stability;
• other devices for ice - anti-slip rubber pads, removable hoops, chains, felt elements.

Such devices have some advantages. This:

• low price;
• wear resistance;
• ease of use;
• good slip protection.

How to choose shoe linings

If you decide to purchase anti-icing shoe pads in the store, read the tips on choosing them. The main thing is to take with you the shoes for which the devices are purchased so that you can try them on. The pads should fit correctly and not be too tight or too loose. Take a few steps to determine if you feel comfortable wearing them. From an aesthetic point of view, it is worth choosing devices to match the shoes or with a natural metallic color.

Carefully inspect the pads you are going to buy. They should be light so as not to weigh down the already large winter boots too much. It is necessary that their shape matches the type of shoe. The material from which anti-slip shoe pads are made must be durable (steel or polyurethane is best) and free from various defects.

How to make your own overlay

It's not difficult at all. It doesn’t take much effort to make your own anti-ice shoe pads. First, “cheeks” made of a steel plate are attached to both sides of the heel. Connected to them with hinges is a bracket that covers the heel, on which replaceable metal spikes are inserted into the tubular holes. They provide traction on slippery surfaces. There is also a threaded bushing located on the bracket. The elements are attached to the bracket by welding.

Fixed at the back of the heel metal plate with holes located above and below. Using a screw inserted (into one of them and into the sleeve), equipped with a knurled head, the bracket and plate are fixed. When the cleat bracket is in the down position, the cleats protrude beyond the heel support surface and perform their anti-slip function. In the upper placement they will be inoperative.

What can be done in the workshop

To make your shoes more suitable for icy conditions, you can contact a workshop. Several options will be offered here.

1. This material soft, does not harden in the cold and clings well to ice.
2. Metal heels. They have excellent grip and do not allow the sole to slip.
3. Anti-slip rubber pads on shoes. A pad glued to the sole will allow you to walk more steadily on ice.

Traditional methods

There are also traditional methods, protecting against falls during icy conditions. For example, if the shoes have a smooth sole, you can improve its grip on the surface - make it corrugated yourself using a nail, soldering iron, sandpaper or graters. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to ruin the boots.

Stores sell adhesive strips. By attaching these anti-slip pads to your shoes, you will protect yourself from ice for several days. Then they should be updated. In addition to sandpaper, you can stick a medical plaster or felt on the sole. Another option is improvised spikes made from small screws or nails.

A great way to make your shoes non-slip is to apply it to the sole. ornate patterns glue "Moment" and sprinkle it with sand or, after drying, rub it with coarse sandpaper. You can use other effective method- rub the boot treads with raw potatoes.

Remember that even with the right shoes and the use of different pads, when walking on ice, you should be extremely careful and careful. It is necessary to look well at your feet, not make sudden movements, and move in small steps.

In late autumn and winter, ice is common. Not everywhere pedestrian paths sprinkled with sand, therefore, at this time, traumatologists are rarely idle. Slipping on ice and breaking your arm or leg is a simple matter. A split second and it's done. Laying around with a broken leg for three weeks, and then rubbing your armpits with crutches for another month is not a happy prospect at all. Therefore, people show all the wonders of their ingenuity so as not to end up in a hospital bed! Who's buying winter shoes with spikes already built into the sole, some glue special non-slip pads to the soles, and some even try not to leave the house unless absolutely necessary. I can’t sit quietly on weekends and... holidays At home I definitely walk 7-8 km. through the forest, along a path specially trodden by runners and walkers like me. This route is replete with quite steep descents and ascents.

It is clear that no one in the forest will sprinkle sand on the road. That's why I've been equipping my shoes for several winters in a row homemade spikes. This is a short-lived affair; It takes me about an hour to make the spikes themselves, as well as to install them. But then you don’t have to worry about your hands and feet for the rest of the winter and the coming spring, until the snow melts. But, as in any business, here, in addition to numerous advantages, there are also disadvantages; Such a spike will hold well and work effectively only on a sole made of dense, elastic rubber. On soles made of soft and elastic rubber, the spikes will not stick, no matter how hard you attach them... a couple of walks and there will be no trace of the spikes left. And literally! But soles made of such soft rubber are usually made for summer shoes, for running shoes, or for playing basketball in the gym, so there is little chance of making a mistake. Still, it’s better to be sure.

Will need

• Sheet metal (1mm thick)
• Screws (preferably black, for wood - they are more tenacious, 15 mm long.)
• Metal scissors.
• Ruler.
• Marker.
• Kerner.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Drill.
• 4 mm drill.
• Secondary glue.

Shoe studding

First, you need to clean the shoes and their soles from sand and dust, and while we are making spikes, you can put them on warm radiator heating. We will make the spikes from galvanized sheet metal, one millimeter thick.

So, using a ruler and a marker, we apply markings on the metal in the form of a regular cell. The area of ​​each square should be 15x15 millimeters.

Next, we take a punch and a hammer, and in the center of each square we make a mark for the drill. We drill four millimeter holes in each square with a drill and a drill bit, in the place punched by the center punch.

Using metal scissors, cut out the drilled squares.

Here I would advise it is better to cut them using a small grinder with a thin cutting wheel, if such tools are available, because the metal is too thick for scissors, and I crushed all my fingers and palms! After cutting, take pliers and bend the corners of each square to one side. How long to bend the corners depends on you - how long you would like the tenons to be. The main thing is that the screw head fits between the bent corners.

Now we remove the warm shoes from the heating radiator and screw ready-made spikes onto the pre-selected tread. There is one subtlety here - after tightening the screw three-quarters, I also drip a second of glue onto the thread, and only then drive the screw completely into the protector.

Just in case. It definitely won't get any worse.

We're done with the spikes. Now let's move on to the moisture-repellent composition.

Will need

• Birch tar.
• Solvent.
• Some cologne (a few drops as a fragrance).
• Cotton pads or napkins.
• Latex gloves.
• 250 ml bottle.

Shoe impregnation

Birch tar can be purchased at any pharmacy, but I got it in advance, in the summer, in sufficient quantities for such needs. I already told you how to remove tar from birch bark once, in a master class on making mosquito repellent. However, this is not the season; extracting tar from birch bark in winter is headache... So, we dilute birch tar with a solvent in a bottle, in proportions of one to one. Shake thoroughly. Inject approximately one cube of any cologne of your choice into the finished mixture with a syringe. Shake again. We put rubber gloves on our hands to avoid getting dirty, moisten a napkin with the prepared solution and apply it to the shoes.

We don’t regret the solution! Thanks to the solvent, it will penetrate into all pores of the shoe. Very soon the solvent will evaporate, and the tar will remain inside, and will protect the material from which the shoes are made from moisture. We also don’t forget about the seams that connect the walls of the shoes with the sole. The seams must be soaked 2-3 times, with a break of 30-40 minutes, since this is the most vulnerable spot of the shoes. Moreover, impregnation here has a double benefit; In addition to its water-repellent properties, it will slow down the smoldering and fraying of the seam thread and, as a result, the wear of the thread and the further disintegration of shoes and soles. We put the shoes on a warm radiator. The next morning, you can safely put on your shoes for a walk or work, and any bad weather will be no problem.

The main thing is to keep your feet dry, warm and comfortable, then illnesses will bypass you. The shoes hold confidently on ice, on trampled snow, and also do not slip on smooth tiles, thanks to the fact that the spikes are located on the sides of the sole - the rubber in the center of the sole easily reaches the smooth tiles and prevents slipping.

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Last year I asked myself the question: How to make ice drifts (ice accesses) yourself? But I still couldn’t come up with something normal boot mounts. This year I looked for inexpensive ones ready-made solutions who dress for shoes. I ordered a pair for ~$8.

Moreover, they did not have the most popular inscription in the world - Made in China or Made in PRC(which is equivalent), but made in Ukraine. After 2 weeks of active wear the steel spikes have worn away thoroughly , and the rubber fastening broke after drying it indoors. What do you propose to do?

Don't buy a low-quality product a second time. To score... but I want to run on ice, and not move around like a granny, constantly afraid of falling.

It's decided! I'll do it as I do own ice drifts! The design is the same, only thorns this time they will be stronger. Which ones are better to choose?

At first I wanted to do it completely hardcore - with a bunch of self-tapping screws, but poor floors) You will have to walk not only on the street.

Anyone who wants can, of course, repeat this option :)

The next thought was to use bolts with wide washers. But the head will get in the way. IN hardware store a wonderful specimen was found for my ice drifts with a hidden head!

I combined fastening methods and bolt length in my test sample.

The most reliable seems to be this: 6-8 mm bolt with a countersunk head + washer + 2-3 layers of rubber (the central one is the longest) + washer + engraver washer (so that the nut does not unscrew) + self-locking nut (for greater reliability).

But it is not a fact that it is the most optimal.

I made rubber bands by cutting an unnecessary machine tube. Holes did leather punch.

By the way, with a set of punches you can get cool gaskets for household needs.

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Side view.

New homemade and old, torn ice drift. Optimal length ice access for an adult leg 385 mm.

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