Choosing a profile pipe for an arched greenhouse. Learning how to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands: description, a drawing of a frame, photo
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To grow seedlings and forcing them, it is not necessary to install an expensive greenhouse. An excellent option would be to build a greenhouse that will take up minimal space on the site, will not require connecting a heating system, and will be low maintenance. Its design is simple and therefore, even without construction experience, it will not be difficult to design and install a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands. Photo and video instructions will help you competently complete all stages of work in the shortest possible time without the involvement of specialists.
Structures made from profile pipes are the most durable and reliable
Why is it profitable to build greenhouses from profile pipes and not from wooden blocks?
The frame is the main load-bearing part of the greenhouse, so it must retain its shape and withstand the loads of precipitation. Therefore, the material must be at the same time easy to process in the manufacture of parts, rigid, strong and durable. There are two main frame materials:
- Wooden beam. It can be processed with any suitable cutting tool, allows you to construct structures at minimal financial cost and is capable of creating a unique microclimate inside the greenhouse. However, it is susceptible to rotting or drying out with loss of strength properties, and exposure to pests and insects. This significantly reduces its service life to an average of 5-7 years. Creating an arched structure will require significant woodworking experience.
- Metal profile pipes. They are easy to process with specialized tools, allow you to create structures of complex shapes, and can come into contact with any type of materials without causing damage due to their smooth surface. The service life is on average 10-15 years. Moreover, unlike wood, they do not require additional care or protection from pests. The optimal pipe cross-section is 20*20 mm, which provides sufficient strength and rigidity of the structure.
The following types of structures exist:
- Single-pitch. Represents the simplest design, which is built with an adjacency to the purpose of saving building materials or compactness of placement on the site.
- Arched. Provides uniform illumination of the entire internal volume, regardless of the position of the sun. However, to achieve this effect, it is necessary to correctly place the object being built so that the arch is in the direction of the sun. During installation, difficulties may arise with bending and centering steel pipes, as well as attaching the sheathing to the frame. As a result, maximum heating and lighting efficiency will be obtained compared to other types of structures.
Choosing a suitable greenhouse from a profile pipe and making it with your own hands is easier if you see ready-made examples on the picture. They will allow you to roughly understand the complexity of construction, as well as indirectly evaluate the benefits.
Related article:
Create a drawing
Creating a drawing - important stage design, which allows you to correctly calculate the amount of material, assess the complexity of the work, and also perform the assembly correctly. Planning should begin by determining the dimensions of the greenhouse.
Unlike other objects built on a personal plot, in in this case You can’t make space reserves. This is due to increasing energy efficiency and ensuring optimal conditions for plant growth. Therefore, it is necessary to clearly define which crops and in what quantities are intended to be grown.
The greenhouse can be mobile or stationary. The first option is suitable if there is an acute shortage of usable area of the site or the need to move it to a heated room when the air temperature outside has significantly decreased. It is a structure similar to the stationary one, but smaller in size, made of lightweight materials and located on a special mobile platform.
A stationary facility is designed with any required area. It can be made in above-ground and shallow-depth versions. Above-ground greenhouses are attractive because they completely eliminate the formation of shading, but at the same time it is advisable to install them in middle and southern latitudes due to possible soil freezing. Shallow ones can draw heat from the ground and warm up the internal volume, regardless of the level of soil freezing. The disadvantage is the appearance of shading near the walls, which will slow down the development of plants.
Just like a do-it-yourself greenhouse designed from polycarbonate, the greenhouse drawing must take into account and contain removable elements (flaps or doors) that will provide access to the plants and ventilation. To do this, one or two doors are provided in its upper part on both sides, which are fixed to top crossbar frame.
Helpful information! To increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to provide intermediate structural elements, which should be evenly distributed along the walls with an interval of 0.5-0.8 m. The interval is chosen so that the sheathing sheets at the joints fall in the middle of the steel pipe.
A do-it-yourself drawing and photo of a greenhouse made from a 20*20 profile pipe are shown in the images below.
Do I need to design a foundation?
During the construction of personal properties, the foundation plays a role reliable foundation for the entire structure, allowing the load to be distributed along the entire perimeter of the walls. Since a greenhouse made of profile pipes and polycarbonate has minimal weight, in most cases there is no need to create a foundation for it, since the steel frame will bear the main loads without deformation. Therefore, there is no need to lay a foundation for it, especially considering that it will significantly increase the cost of the project.
Creating a Cost Estimate
Based on the drawing, we draw up cost estimates and details that will guarantee that there are no problems during procurement necessary materials and will allow you to calculate your spending budget. The detailing will show which parts require the use of specialized tools and at what stage assembly difficulties may arise.
When calculating the quantity of building materials, it is necessary to make a reserve of 10%, taking into account their possible damage during delivery, as well as installation errors. Even if it is possible to save material, in the future the excess can be used to repair or improve the facility.
How to properly make a greenhouse with your own hands?
The construction of a greenhouse can be qualitatively divided into three stages: searching for tools and creating structural parts, preparing the site and the construction process itself.
Selection of the necessary tools and creation of design details
To build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- shovel for leveling the soil;
- drill for installing frame posts;
- grinder for cutting profile pipes;
- screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws;
- hacksaw with fine teeth for sawing polycarbonate.
Helpful information! It is prohibited to cut polycarbonate with a grinder, as it will melt and lose decorative properties. Must use manual cutting tool for metal with a fine tooth or a power tool with speed control.
The frame assembly sequence is as follows:
- We assemble the finished parts into a single structure according to the drawing. For fastenings we use standard steel brackets of suitable sizes and bolts, or we make a welded connection.
- We measure the length of the side walls and cut the polycarbonate sheets to size.
Helpful information! You can measure the length of the arc with a curvimeter. If it is not there, then you can use a rope, attach it tightly to the steel pipe, and then make marks along its length on polycarbonate sheets and cut it.
After assembling the frame, it must be protected from the negative influence of the external environment - it is recommended to paint it water-based paint. The finished do-it-yourself greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe is shown in photo 20.
Article
A homemade frame for a greenhouse made from a profile pipe has a lot of advantages over a ready-made structure, not to mention saving money on its purchase; a greenhouse made from profiles is reliable, a design feature eliminates accumulation of snow on the roof, and a strong frame allows you to install lighting and heating in the structure.
A profile pipe is a pipe that has a square or rectangular cross-section. Manufacturers offer cold-rolled and hot-rolled pipes, solid and welded. There are no increased requirements for the profile for making a greenhouse frame, so you can purchase those pipes that are cheaper.
Since the greenhouse does not involve large mechanical loads, and the project must intelligently combine quality characteristics and the cost of the entire project, then a small profile should be chosen for the frame.
For the construction of a greenhouse frame, the optimal profile would be a profile with cross-sectional sides of 2*2 cm and 2*4 cm. Rectangular pipes are used on load-bearing structures, square pipes are used for the construction of transverse lintels and oblique stops (if they are provided for in the design).
Manufacturers offer pipes standard length in 3, 6 and 12 linear meters. When drawing up the project, this circumstance should be taken into account and calculated to use the profile without trimming.
Since the main threat to the metal, which is not protected from the destructive effect of atmospheric moisture, is rust, for the construction of the greenhouse, an ideal choice will be a profile pipe with anti -corrosion galvanizing or special spraying. Here additional protection will be required only at the joints.
Note! For reasons of minimizing the cost of building a greenhouse, pipes for the frame, you can choose a material made of simple steel, without anti-corrosion factory treatment. To protect finished design from corrosion, it is enough to clean the metal from rust, prime it and paint it.
Advantages and disadvantages of profiles for the manufacture of greenhouses
Manufacturers offer ready-made greenhouses of any size and shape. However, building such a structure yourself is both interesting and profitable.
Greenhouses made from profile pipes are more durable. They are heavy, which means they can withstand winds very well.
Growing vegetables and other crops in a greenhouse allows you to protect them from frost and bad weather, as well as provide optimal conditions in terms of temperature and humidity. And as a result, all the time and effort spent on arranging the building and caring for the plants will more than pay off a bountiful harvest High Quality. Do you like to do everything around the house yourself? Are you a "jack of all trades"? Then try making a greenhouse from a profile with your own hands.
Why is it worth building a greenhouse from a profile yourself? How will such a structure be better than a wooden greenhouse or a purchased building, which only needs to be brought and assembled on site? Before getting down to business, you should understand what the advantages of a profile greenhouse built with your own hands are.
- freedom of choice– you can decide for yourself what size and shape your future greenhouse will be. Your imagination can only be limited by the requirements for the strength of the frame and the budget allocated for the arrangement of the greenhouse.
- Saving– metal profiles are cheap, polycarbonate or film cladding is also not expensive. In addition, a markup from the greenhouse manufacturer, which can be significant, is not added to the cost of construction. As a result, a building of equal size and quality can cost you 30-50% less than a purchased one.
Prices for galvanized profiles
galvanized profile
In addition to the advantages, before starting construction work you should also become familiar with the disadvantages of a greenhouse made of metal profiles. In fact, it is one, but quite significant - in winter, under the influence of large masses of snow, the frame and fasteners may not withstand and the greenhouse will develop. There are two ways to solve this problem.
Insufficient reinforcement of the frame and irregular cleaning of the greenhouse roof from snow can lead to such a sad result
The first is to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse. To do this, the distance between the arches (or trusses, depending on the design) is reduced, additional jibs and pillar columns are introduced to support the roof of the greenhouse. You will have to spend more materials, but these costs will pay off over time.
The second way to solve the problem with snow load is the arrangement of a removable roof. This is suitable for those greenhouses that are used only during the summer season. Upon completion, the roof of the greenhouse is removed for the winter. As a result, nothing threatens the frame, and in the spring you just need to remove the remaining snow and mount everything back.
Important! If you live in southern latitudes and get little snow in winter, then there is no need to worry about snow load. It is enough to regularly remove it from the roof of the greenhouse after the next precipitation.
Types of profiles
Strictly speaking, a profile greenhouse is a collective concept. It denotes structures that are noticeably different from each other and are built from many types of metal (and other) profiles. Some of the profiles were originally manufactured for other purposes, while others were created specifically for the construction of greenhouses. The most popular of them are shown in the table below.
Table. Types of profiles suitable for building greenhouses.
| Title, photo | Description |
|---|---|
| Many subtypes of U-shaped profiles, differing in width, wall height and metal thickness. They are used for the construction of various structures, including greenhouses. To combat corrosion, depending on the material, it is galvanized (for steel) or anodized (for aluminum). |
| Metal profile of V-shaped section with “shelves” for fastening in the lower part and on the edges. A cheap and easy-to-use product, but inferior in strength to some U-profile options. Created specifically for the construction of greenhouses. Reinforced options may be called W-profiles. |
| Galvanized steel pipe of rectangular or square section. High levels of strength and reliability. To combat corrosion, it is galvanized or powder coated. |
| Load-bearing ceiling profile (PP) for plasterboard. It has a U-shaped section, bends at the ends. Equipped with corrugations that increase the strength of the product. |
| Guide profile for drywall. It has a P-shaped cross section, is used to form the plane of the frame from the CD profile and the latter fastenes to the wall, floor or ceiling. |
| Profiles made of polyvinyl chloride P-shaped, square and other cross-section. It differs from metal analogues in greater flexibility and low cost with less resistance to loads. |
There are several ways to fasten profile elements to each other.
- Bolts and nuts with washers– well suited for profiled pipes, V-shaped and U-shaped structures. They provide ease of subsequent dismantling and reassembly of the greenhouse, but at the same time require preliminary drilling of holes in the profile and careful monitoring of the reliability of the connections.
- Self-tapping screws– used in working with all types of metal profiles, especially CD and UD. For a greenhouse, it is justified to use not “bugs”, but self-tapping screws with a press washer - a thin head will not interfere with the installation of the sheathing. Some of the screws come with drill bits on the ends to facilitate entry into the metal.
- Welding– reliable and durable one-piece fastening. Use only if subsequent dismantling of the greenhouse is not planned. Welding seams require additional protection against corrosion.
- Connectors– many designs used to connect PVC profiles to each other.
Advice! When choosing a profile for a greenhouse, pay attention to the quality of the anti-corrosion coating, especially on the corners and bends - there it should not have abrasions, stains, foreign inclusions or other defects. Otherwise, the service life of the frame may be significantly reduced due to the gradual destruction of elements affected by corrosion.
Choosing a greenhouse shape
Before you start creating drawings and plans, you need to decide general form frame for the future greenhouse. There are several basic options that have their own advantages and disadvantages. Let's look at them separately.
Gable greenhouse. The classic form that has existed, exists and will exist for decades. In fact, it is a reduced and simplified house with gable roof.
The advantages of the design are as follows:
- high rigidity;
- roof angles - a solution to the problem with snow;
- no need for a flexible profile;
- 100% of the greenhouse area is usable.
The disadvantages of a gable greenhouse are as follows:
- relatively high consumption materials;
- design complexity;
- inconvenience with roof cladding.
Arched greenhouse. The most common form of greenhouse frame at the moment. It is a set of profile arches connected to each other by horizontal ties.
Advantages:
- simplicity of design;
- low material consumption;
- resistance to strong winds;
- quick assembly of the frame and laying of the sheathing.
But the arched greenhouse has its own disadvantages, and noticeable:
- the need to regularly clean snow;
- you need a flexible profile or tools for bending;
- Narrow areas directly next to the wall cannot be used.
A-shaped. Imagine that all that remains of an ordinary greenhouse with a gable roof is the roof, which is very elongated in height. This is what an A-frame greenhouse looks like.
Enough unusual design, which is rare, but has its advantages:
- no problems with snow;
- ease of assembly;
- unusual appearance.
The rarity of the A-frame greenhouse can be explained by its disadvantages:
- problems with usable space;
- more labor-intensive installation of sheathing;
- inconvenience in working with beds.
It is an ordinary greenhouse, but the roof is tilted only in one direction. The advantages and disadvantages do not differ from those of a gable greenhouse. Well suited as an extension to residential building and a greenhouse for growing seedlings for a “large” greenhouse.
There are other, more complex designs-, tent, etc. However, you need to take into account that the greenhouse is made independently and from a relatively light frame, therefore it is possible to build such greenhouses, but only if there is great experience, as well as time and effort that you don’t mind spending.
Important! There is a subtype of greenhouse with a gable roof -. It differs from the original in that the tops of the slopes are located one above the other, and vents are installed in the resulting vertical wall. As a result, the Mittleider greenhouse is the best in terms of ventilation and air circulation efficiency.
Design of the greenhouse from the profile
Having chosen the shape of the future greenhouse, you need to take several sheets of paper (preferably graph paper or squared), a pencil, an eraser and begin drawing up a drawing of the building. If you have computer skills, the drawing can be drawn up in programs for 3D modeling and design. Of these, the easiest to learn is Google SketcUp.
First you need to choose the size of the building. In this case, proceed from the dimensions of a standard sheet - 6 by 2.1 m. Also take into account the method of connecting individual sheathing elements to each other - using connecting profiles or overlapping. Most often, summer residents choose a greenhouse width of 2-3 m. The length can be 4, 6, 8 and 10 m, with some adjustments to the standard dimensions of the SPK sheet. The height of an arched greenhouse is rarely made more than 2.1 m, but for a gable structure there are no special restrictions, the main thing is to maintain an inclination angle of 25-30° for the slopes.
Prices for cellular polycarbonate
cellular polycarbonate
Don’t forget also about the doorway, think about what size it will be convenient for you. Pay attention to the location of windows and transoms, especially in large greenhouses, since the plants in them will especially need ventilation.
The final stage of design is thinking through and drawing profile connections into a single frame on the drawing. Don't forget to count the quantity the required material and fasteners for subsequent purchase, taking into account a reserve of 10-15%.
Foundation arrangement
Some readers may have doubts whether a foundation is needed for a greenhouse at all. On the one hand, this is not a heavy building, and under own weight the greenhouse is unlikely to sag. But for a greenhouse without a foundation, there is always a risk that it will be blown away by the wind. In addition, the base laid under the greenhouse protects plants from drafts, freezing, rodents, insects and other pests.
Before starting to build the foundation, you need to choose the place where the future greenhouse will stand. Ideally, this should be an even area with a minimum slope, rich soil, the lack of shading from the buildings and some kind of cover from the northern winds in the form of a fence or hedge.
Important! Do not place the greenhouse between two houses or next to such a place - the effect of an “aerodynamic pipe” is created here, that is, constant and strong drafts.
The simplest and most affordable type of foundation is a timber structure. Arrangement of some other types is possible, but redundant. For your convenience, below is step-by-step instruction.
Step 1. Clear the area for the greenhouse from debris, stones and tall vegetation.
Step 2. Mark. To do this, you can use pegs or pieces of reinforcement and a thread stretched between them.
Step 3. Determine the condition of the soil. If it is sufficiently solid, then the timber foundation does not need to be deepened. Otherwise, there is a need to construct a trench.
Step 4. If the soil is soft, then dig a trench along the perimeter of the greenhouse with the width of a beam and a depth of one spade bayonet.
Step 5. Compact the bottom of the trench and add a layer of sand or gravel. The layer thickness should be 25-30% of the ditch depth.
Step 6. Measure and cut the timber to the length and width of the greenhouse.
Advice! It is advisable to use larch timber as a material for the foundation - it is resistant to rotting and mold.
Prices for larch timber
larch timber
Step 7 Treat the wood with an antiseptic. Alternatively you can use copper sulfate, bitumen or used machine oil.
Step 8 Assemble the timber into a rectangular box. Connections can be made using dowels or long half-wood self-tapping screws, or using galvanized metal corners.
Step 9 Transfer the timber box into the trench, lay it there and level it horizontally. To do this, you can use sand, earth or thin planks.
Step 10 Drill in the corners of the timber box through holes and insert reinforcing pins 1 m long there. Drive them into the ground. This is necessary for reliable fastening of the foundation of the greenhouse - so it will not be carried away by the wind.
Step 11 Fill the gaps between the trench and the foundation with sand, gravel or soil.
Step 12 For additional protection of the timber, the foundation can be covered on top with a layer of roofing felt or other roll waterproofing.
Frame assembly
Let's consider the process of manufacturing two options for a frame for a greenhouse - gable design from profiles for plasterboard and arched from V-shaped metal products.
The first option consists of the following elements, assembled separately:
- main and secondary gables;
- side walls;
- roof.
One of the gables of the greenhouse (and in the case of a long building, both) must have an opening for a door, which is assembled separately. The pediments themselves were assembled from the base, vertical racks, upper horizontal beam, roof and jibs.
Step 1. Measure the profile for the base and cut it to the required length. To do this, use either a UD guide profile or a ceiling profile, but with bent bends at the ends at the entry points of the vertical posts.
Step 2. Drill holes in the base profile for attachment to the greenhouse foundation. The interval between them is 0.75-1.5 m.
Step 3. Insert the outermost vertical posts “shelf” to the left and right, respectively. Secure it to the base using four self-tapping screws for each connection - two per “foot” of the UD profile.
Step 4. Insert the inner vertical posts using the same method. Using a horizontal jumper, form door frame. It can be fastened in two ways - either using a T-shaped connector, or by trimming the sides of the lintel profile and fixing it to the resulting “petal”.
Step 5. Install the top horizontal beam from the same profile from which the base is made.
Step 6. Secure the rafter profiles to the gable wall and to each other by trimming the sides and forming “petals.”
Step 7 Provide gable rafters with ties and braces to form a stronger structure.
Using the same scheme, build the second gable of the greenhouse. After this you can start creating the side walls.
Step 1. Measure and cut the base profile, drill holes for fastening to the foundation. Leave “petals” at the edges to connect the side walls of the greenhouse with the gables.
Step 2. Prepare vertical posts of the required height, insert them into the base and connect them together with self-tapping screws (two or three on each side of the profile). The interval between the racks, depending on the plan, can be 0.5-1 m. The smaller its value, the stronger the structure, but also the more materials it will need.
Step 3. Install another horizontal profile on top of the racks and connect everything with self-tapping screws.
Advice! For additional structural strength, provide the side walls with a horizontal beam in the middle. It can be connected to the racks either using cross-shaped “crab” connectors or by trimming the sides of the profile.
Step 4. Mount both gables and both side walls on the foundation, secure with long screws or anchor bolts.
The last stage of frame formation is the arrangement of the roof. It is assembled according to the same principle as on the gables, only the rafters are fixed to the upper horizontal beams using “petals”. For additional structural strength, many craftsmen supplement the frame with jibs that connect the rafters and vertical posts directly.
With the help of such oblique elements, you can significantly strengthen the frame and protect it from kinks.
Advice! You can improve the strength of connections between profiles with each other using specialized racks and connectors, as in the images below.
There are many V-profile structures sold on the greenhouse market today. But if you have the proper skills and tools, it will not be difficult to reproduce it yourself, at home. Let's start the construction process with the gables.
Step 1. Cut individual pieces of profile that will make up the greenhouse arch. The optimal number of it constituent elements- 5 items. To make the profile round, use a pipe bender.
Step 2. Drill holes for fasteners according to the drawing. To protect against corrosion, treat them with cold galvanizing.
Step 3. Connect the arch elements into a single semicircular structure using nuts and bolts.
Step 4. Attach the jibs and crossbars to the arch.
Step 5. Using corners and triangle plates, mount vertical posts, a door frame and oblique crossbars on the pediment. Also secure the corners for the horizontal ties of the greenhouse in advance.
Good day to all.
When you decide to build a greenhouse, the first question that arises is: what material to use? In this article I decided to review self-made greenhouses made of durable profile pipe. Using it you can make a reliable frame that will last for many years.
On the Internet you can find a lot of advice on assembling a structure, but most experts describe the manufacturing process from a pipe, but not a profile one.
You need to understand that the profile pipe, unlike its traditional counterpart, has a rectangular or square shape.
Despite its low weight, this material is quite durable. If you plan to make an arched greenhouse, it is recommended to use a 40×20 profile. For jumpers would be better suited pipe with dimensions 20×20.
Advantages of profile pipe
- Durability.
- Large selection of coverage.
- Simple mounting.
- Easy assembly.
- Possibility to make a design of any shape.
The only difficulty may be bending the material. In this case, you need to accurately bend one pipe, and then use it as a template. It must first be filled with sand.
There are several options for greenhouse shapes, but I decided to focus on a review of the arched type. If you have some skills in such work, then there should be no problems with assembly.
When choosing a location for a future greenhouse, you need to take into account the maximum illumination, so it should face strictly south. Surface differences should not exceed 10 cm.
To make arches, you need to prepare a profile with a cross-section of 20×40 in the amount of 10 pieces (profile pipe). The approximate length of the pipes should be 5.8 m (you can immediately cut them upon purchase, or take 6-meter pipes). To form arcs, it is recommended to use a pipe bender; if you do this by hand, it will be difficult to achieve high accuracy.
For the frame jumpers, you need to prepare a profile with a cross-section of 20×20 mm in the amount of 40 pieces. The length of the pipes is 67 cm.
Using pegs and rope, mark the future structure. To achieve an even structure, you need to check the markings diagonally.
Dig a pit to a depth of 80 cm, then fill it with cement mortar to the level of the longitudinal base, the height of which should be about 15 cm.
At the next stage, the transverse bases are welded to the longitudinal ones. To give strength and reliability, it is recommended to use metal corners.
Lay a brick under the base; if necessary, you can make a small groove for masonry.
Before erecting the frame, you need to lay out polycarbonate sheets, lay arcs on top and outline them with a marker. You can cut the material using a construction knife, leaving a margin of about 2 cm.
When the solution has completely hardened, you should begin installing the frame from the profile pipe. The first arch needs to be welded to the longitudinal bases.
It is important to note that installing the first and last arch is a responsible step, so it is recommended to use a plumb line.
Using jumpers, the remaining arches are welded sequentially. Experts recommend starting to weld the arc to the upper jumper. After the last arch is installed, you need to weld the end jumpers from a profile with a section of 20x20, since they do not carry a large load.
Polycarbonate is attached to the structure using special self-tapping screws and washers. Before covering the sheets, it is necessary to remove the protective film. The first piece should protrude beyond the structure by about 15 cm.
After attaching the polycarbonate, you need to cut holes for the windows and doors. All joints must be treated with silicone.
The service life of such a homemade greenhouse is more than 10 years. Moreover, the structure does not require any maintenance.
Greenhouse drawing and assembly (video)
When preparing a drawing of a greenhouse structure, it is important to take into account that the pipe has standard dimensions from 3 to 12 m. Therefore, you need to find out this point from the seller. This will allow you to avoid overpayments and work without trimming.
Important! The section of the profile pipe for the main parts should be 20x40, as well as 20x20 for the connecting elements.
The following information must be indicated on the diagram:
- Foundation.
- Vertical racks.
- Roof structure.
- Top harness.
- Windows and door.
- Spacers.
First of all, you need to decide on the distance between the vertical posts. Experts recommend 1 m. In the case where the greenhouse is supposed to be covered plastic film, then the distance can be reduced to 0.6 m. This is necessary to reduce the load on the pipe. If you need to increase the distance, then additional reinforcement is needed.
Creating an arched greenhouse requires a slightly different approach. After all, here you need to correctly bend the profile pipe at a certain angle. If it is assumed that the height of the greenhouse will be 2 m, then you need to purchase a 12-meter pipe. The distance between the arcs is recommended to be no more than one meter.
All arcs are attached to each other, in addition, to secure the structure on each side you will need to use profiles. Please indicate additional spacers on the fronts.
It should be understood that, if necessary, any parts can be made from a pipe, so it is possible to create a lean-to, triangular, or spherical shape of the future greenhouse.
You probably understand that the structure will be quite heavy, so you need to prepare the foundation. The foundation is made at the discretion of the owner land plot. It is recommended to immediately insert anchors into the cement mortar, to which the frame is welded for reinforcement.
The assembly process is simple:
- For vertical posts, cut a profile pipe of the required size.
- Weld the vertical posts to the base, using a building level.
- You need to fix the outline on top of the racks.
- Take measurements and cut parts for the vertical posts.
- Connect and secure all the racks with crossbars.
- Make a door and install it in the intended location.
Some gardeners and gardeners prefer to make a frame on the ground and then secure it to the foundation. To avoid distortions, such work should be done only on a flat surface.
To make an arched greenhouse yourself from a profile pipe, you will need to use a pipe bender. If it is missing, to bend you need to do the following:
- Cut the material to the required length.
- Make cuts.
- Bend the pipe.
After installing the frame, you need to secure the polycarbonate. But there are several nuances here:
- The front side is the one on which the protective film is applied.
- The sheets must be secured with self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
- The sheets are connected to each other by metal plates.
- The joints are treated with sealant.
- After fixing the material, remove the protective film.
Advantages and disadvantages
Profile pipes are those whose cross-section is not round, but of a different shape, such as oval, square and rectangular. They are very convenient to use in construction. The most popular are pipes with a square and rectangular cross-section; it is from them that the frames of greenhouses and greenhouses are often made. They are made from steel: usually carbon or alloy, less often from stainless steel.
The profile pipe is shaped like wooden block, but in building structures it is much more profitable - lightweight, durable, protected from corrosion. Greenhouses made from a profile pipe, and even made with your own hands, turn out to be much cheaper than factory ones bought in a store. In addition to being economical, they have a number of other advantages.
The rectangular (or square) cross-section geometry causes an interesting effect: with low weight, corrugated pipes provide the desired strength of the frame for greenhouses and greenhouses. Sufficient structural rigidity is achieved thanks to four pipe ribs. The large contact area of the connecting nodes also adds strength to the entire structure. The parts of the greenhouse frame can be connected using welding, self-tapping screws, screws, clamps; the possibility of combining these methods when building a greenhouse with your own hands is also an advantage. Corrugated pipes are sold with an anti-corrosion coating, which is very convenient: you no longer need to think about how to protect the frame (only the cut areas will have to be treated).
A frame made of profile pipes has undeniable advantages:
- it is easy to install and dismantle;
- the design has great strength with low weight;
- parts are universal, easy to load and transport;
- he is not afraid of heavy physical and mechanical stress.
Light weight can easily turn from an advantage into a disadvantage if on terrain with strong winds do not install the greenhouse on a solid foundation.
Choosing material
It is not difficult to make a frame for a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands if you choose the right material for it. Usually the choice is between wood, polyvinyl chloride and steel. It is pleasant and quite easy to work with wood with your own hands, it is easy to install, it is an environmentally friendly material, but no processing will extend its life. If the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate, the coating will clearly outlive the wooden frame.
The steel frame is also susceptible to corrosion, although it can withstand heavy loads. It is unlikely that a summer resident will choose polyvinyl chloride pipes to make a greenhouse with his own hands because of the high cost, although this material is quite satisfactory for its strength, safety and durability.
When looking for material, summer residents most often choose profile pipes, and this is understandable - they make the most reliable greenhouses. They do not rust, withstand heavy loads, do not sag under snow, and do not require installation special equipment or experience. It is easy to attach polycarbonate to a rectangular steel pipe; thanks to the cross-sectional shape, it is easy to make joints between elements.
The process of assembling and installing the greenhouse frame and profile pipe. Fastening frame elements.
Drawings and diagram
If the owner of the future greenhouse has decided on the material, then it’s time to choose the shape. The choice is not very large.
- An arched greenhouse is usually used for growing short plants. It is convenient because the roof does not need to be cleaned, and snow and debris do not linger on it.
- Tall (or climbing high) plants are grown in a tunnel greenhouse. Standard sizes: width – 10 m, height – 5 m.
- Seedlings are grown in a pyramidal greenhouse; they take up very little space on the ground, are narrow, and tend towards the top.
- The gable form seems to be the most convenient for those who want to grow plants of different types. It makes it possible to rationally manage the space inside the greenhouse; tall plants can be perfectly arranged in it, or very compactly in tiers or vertical landing arrange low-growing vegetables and berries.
- A wall-mounted greenhouse is simply half a gable greenhouse attached to the side of an existing building.
It is most convenient to make a gable greenhouse into a house from a profile pipe - all side elements lie in the same plane. It provides a sufficient amount of light and space for diverse plants, in addition, it allows the installation of additional elements - doors, windows. It is advisable to start the work by creating a diagram of the structure; it will allow you to visualize the owner’s ideas about the greenhouse or greenhouse that he is going to build. Moreover, it is the diagram that will help determine the optimal dimensions of the greenhouse so as to make the correct calculation for cutting pipes. And then you need to make a drawing indicating all the dimensions of the greenhouse “house”.
The standard length of the profile pipe is 6.05 m. To make one frame from it, you need to calculate its dimensions according to the diagram. If we assume a height of 1.7 m, then 3.4 m will be needed on both sides, and with a roof angle of 30 degrees the width will be 2.24 m. The author of the drawing suggests reducing it by 24 cm so that one sheet of polycarbonate is enough for the roof and There is 10 cm left on the sides for water drainage. Since the materials for construction are being calculated at your own expense and with your own hands, it is worth listening to this opinion.
Construction of the frame
A lightweight greenhouse made of profile pipes and polycarbonate should be built on a strong foundation. It can be different: wooden, brick, concrete. Most often, a monolithic concrete foundation is made for such a greenhouse; special anchors are placed in it for subsequent attachment of a profile pipe to them. After the concrete has hardened, a profile pipe with a cross-section of 40 mm by 20 mm is attached to these anchors; all frames will be attached to it. Next you need to assemble the frame by mounting the frames on the base.
The most responsible and important point there should be an assembly of end frames on which doors (70 cm wide) and a window (80 cm wide) are planned. It is better to make the door from a pipe with a cross-section of 40 mm by 20 mm, and for a window, a pipe with a cross-section of 20 mm by 20 mm will be sufficient. Hinges on frames can be installed directly on the assembly site.
The frame frames can be placed at a distance of 1 m from each other - the rigidity and strength of the pipes will allow this to be done without losing the strength of the greenhouse. Moreover, they will be connected by segments square pipe with a section of 20 mm by 20 mm, they must be welded flush with the main profile. If the calculation was correct, the polycarbonate will lie evenly on the frame. Installation of finished frames begins with an end frame with a door. It needs to be fixed by welding it to the base with two braces from the corner. 10 cm from the bend are placed horizontal connections from the pipe, they are needed to secure the polycarbonate.
Do-it-yourself greenhouse frame from a profile pipe
Many summer residents prefer greenhouses made from profile pipes, especially since they can be made with their own hands. How to do this, read the article
Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe - what is important to know
When making greenhouses for their site, every person always has the first and main question - what to make a greenhouse from, what material to use for this?
Today we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe.
Profile pipe - features of working with it
Manufacturing is the main task
This material makes quite strong frames for greenhouses, and with proper processing of the material protective coating, these greenhouses are also durable.
The frame of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe consists of many elements, and if assembling such a frame does not seem to be a difficult task, then the manufacture of individual elements can confuse even experienced craftsman all trades.
It's not all about skill and knowledge, but especially about the particular material. Let's deviate a little from the main topic and look at this issue in more detail.
Not all advice is on point
As many have probably noticed, there are many tips for building a greenhouse from a profile pipe. Having typed the treasured words into a search engine, what do we get in the end?
And in most cases we get a method for making a greenhouse frame from a pipe. Yes, it’s from a pipe, but not profiled at all.
Our reference is a profile pipe, this is a pipe with internal section differs from the usual round pipe and has a square or rectangular shape.
Profile pipe - distinctive features
- Profile pipe is used in various constructions as a structural material.
If we speak figuratively and compare this material with wood, then the profile pipe plays the role of a beam. Do you agree, is there a difference between timber and logs or round timber?
- A special difference between a profile pipe and a regular pipe is the presence of four stiffeners.
Our information is that with a much lower weight, a profile pipe is much stronger than a regular pipe.
Experts know that when bending a beam, the main load falls on the areas that are located at the edges. The load has virtually no effect on the central part or core; there are no factors leading to deformation.
- Having more durable material and at the same time light in weight, it can be adapted to perform various projects and manufacturing of various structures, which design engineers use with success.
The main problem is the bend
But this circumstance dictates the use of special approaches and the use of special tools when working with this material.
- For example, you are building a greenhouse from an ordinary pipe (see Greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands);
- You will not have any problems or questions when making it, unless, of course, you know how to work with metal and you have sufficient experience in this;
- When you build a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands, a lot of questions arise;
- You will have them already when you just start making your own drawing of a greenhouse from a profile pipe.
It's no secret that to bend regular pipe it is possible without the use of special devices, but when making a frame for a greenhouse this may be necessary.
But when will you think about how to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse? This is a completely different question.
It may lead to you completely abandoning the use of this material in the design or you will need the help of specialized companies or metalworking shops.
Without equipment you can't go anywhere
The fact is that bending a profile pipe without deforming the latter, and even more so under the right angle and the required configuration is a difficult task.
Industrial frame made from profile pipe.
No, of course it’s easy to do if you have hand pipe bender, and the established production of greenhouses from profile pipes uses precisely this device, bending the pipe in this case is quite simple.
Pipe bender for profile pipe.
But you must admit, not everyone has this device in their household.
- Purchasing this product for the manufacture of one greenhouse is completely futile, unless, of course, you plan to deal with flexible profile pipes professionally in the future;
Bent element on a pipe bender.
- Therefore, before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe correctly assess your capabilities;
- Maybe it’s better for you to use another material for your greenhouse (see Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of PVC arcs: how to make it?).
Drawing begins with an assessment of possibilities
Or you can do it differently, drawing a greenhouse from a profile pipe; try to do it in such a way that you don’t have to bend individual elements.
In this case, you will not have to turn to specialized companies for help and spend additional money just to bend the pipe.
When we talked about the need for you to correctly assess your capabilities, we also had in mind the issue of welding. If you don't have welding machine or you doubt your abilities as a welder, but have nowhere to turn, go in the following way: complete the drawings of a greenhouse from a profile pipe, simply create a frame that does not require welding at all. In other words, it will be completely completed using fasteners. The advantage of this material is that the greenhouse frame made of a profile pipe allows this to be done.
As you can see, the material is quite versatile, allowing it to be used in various ways.
Bend the profile pipe
For those who want to build a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with their own hands and at the same time need to bend the pipe without outside help, we will give two tips on how this can be done independently and at home.
Method one - cutting, welding
The first tip lies in your ability to use welding. You will need:
- Welding machine;
- Cutting machine;
- Secure the profile pipe in a vice;
- After this, accurately determine the bend location and the angle at which you need to bend the pipe;
- On the side into which the fold will be made, it is necessary to apply transverse marks with a marker at strictly the same distance. The distance of the marks from each other directly depends on the bend radius. The steeper the arc required, the closer the marks are to each other and vice versa;
- Using a cutting machine, you need to make cuts along the marks;
- Next, bend the pipe to the required radius;
- After this, all cuts must be welded together.
Accuracy comes first
With some effort and skill, you can get a pretty good bend.
Arches from a profile pipe.
Method two - sand comes to the rescue
As for the second method, we don’t need welding at all. We will need sand, not just earth or clay, but clean river sand.
Sand preparation
The sand must be cleaned of foreign impurities and sifted.
To obtain a better result, it can be washed with water. Then all the smallest foreign impurities will be washed out of it.
- After the sand has dried, it must be calcined over a fire. This is done in order to remove the last remaining moisture;
- This can be done on a metal sheet located above the fire;
- The sand is laid in a thin layer and kept until steam stops emitting from it.
Good preparation - great results
The frame of the greenhouse is made from profiles of various sections. Suppose we need a greenhouse made of 20*20 profile pipe.
- We take the workpiece that we need to bend, and make two plugs from wood for both ends of this workpiece;
- In this case, the plugs should be of such a size that they would have to be inserted into the ends of our pipe using a hammer;
- We hammer the first plug into one end;
- We place the workpiece vertically, with the open edge on top;
- We pour sand inside the pipe;
- You need to pour it all the way to the edge. At the same time, you can tap the workpiece with the hammered end on the ground, thereby compacting the sand inside the pipe;
- Once the sand has been poured in, a wooden plug must be driven into the open edge;
- Now, by clamping the profile pipe in any place, it can be bent in the same way as a simple pipe.
The sand inside creates the necessary pressure, which prevents deformation of individual parts of the pipe.
The fold is smooth and of high quality. After the element is ready, you need to remove the plugs and pour out the sand. Problems may arise with this; the plugs fit tightly. In this case, they can be drilled out or simply burned out on fire.
If you need a greenhouse made from a 40*20 profile pipe, then you can do the same with this pipe.
Winter - fire with water
In winter, water can be used instead of sand.
- Having hammered the plug on one side, water is poured into the pipe to such a level that there is only room left for the second plug, after which the second plug is hammered in and the pipe is exposed to frost;
- After the water turns into ice, you can successfully bend the profile pipe.
Our advice is that if you use the last method, carefully monitor the condition of the pipe while it is in the cold. Overexposure threatens to deform the pipe cross-section or rupture it.
Profile protection is the foundation
If the profile pipe you used to make the greenhouse frame does not have external protection from aggressive influences environment, take care of it.
Having considered this issue, it became clear that greenhouses made of profile pipes, the production of a frame, individual elements or simply drawings are important and responsible work, where there are no trifles. One wrong calculation and all the work is in vain, or vice versa, the right decision will lead to an excellent result.
How to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands - a detailed guide
Avid summer residents often strive to install a reliable greenhouse or hotbed on their site so that they can grow seedlings or get a harvest much earlier. In this article we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands so that it turns out reliable and durable.
Note that the choice in favor of steel profiled pipes is dictated primarily by their resistance to deformation and destruction, as well as their ability to withstand significant loads. Although the installation of such products itself requires some effort.
The initial stage of creating a greenhouse from profile pipes - drawing and selection of material
You can determine the exact amount of required materials as accurately as possible if you first estimate the dimensions of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe in the drawings, and also take into account the very parameters of the manufactured products.
Profiles with a cross section of 40×20 mm or 40×40 mm are optimal for creating a supporting structure. They are quite durable and have a wall thickness of 2 mm or more. At the same time, for horizontal screeds, you can use products with thinner walls, about 1-1.5 mm - this will be enough.
The design of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe can include several types of configurations:
- a greenhouse attached to the main house, the roof of which has an asymmetrical oval or pitched shape;
- a separate building with a gable roof;
- greenhouse with an arched configuration.
When calculating the number of pipes to be purchased, it is worth taking into account the measured length of pipe products available for sale - it is 6.05 meters.
Given this value, it is possible to make drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe with dimensions of 3, 4, 6 or 12 meters in length, as well as 2, 3, 4 or 6 meters in width. The optimal dimensions of a greenhouse in which two parallel beds are placed will be within 3 × 3-6 meters, and if there are three beds, then 4-6 × 3-12 meters. However, most often the drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe is drawn up based on dimensions of 3x6 meters - this is the most convenient ratio.
But as for the height of the building, it is necessary to take into account the individual parameters of the owner. As a rule, the ceiling should be located 30-40 cm higher than a person’s height. That is, the height of the greenhouse can vary between 1.9-2.5 meters.
Another important factor in calculating the height of the greenhouse is finishing material for plating. In the case of ordinary film, this is not of fundamental importance, but if you purchase polycarbonate, it is better if its size is sufficient to cover the height without trimming or extensions.
The standard length of a cellular polycarbonate sheet is 6 m, and if you use the circumference formula (L=π×D), you can calculate whether it is enough to cover an arched greenhouse.
So, for example, let’s take the planned height of the building to be 2 meters and substitute it into the formula:
Then half the length will be 12.56/2 = 6.28 meters - this is not enough to completely cover the surface of the greenhouse, and an additional segment of 28 cm will be required. Therefore, it is better to provide for the height of the greenhouse in the drawing of an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe within 1. 9 meters.
Preliminary preparation for work
Before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, you should pay attention to some additional conditions your site. In particular, soil type may matter. It is preferable to install the greenhouse on dry soil, where excess moisture does not accumulate, which can affect bearing structures. It is optimal to install a greenhouse on sandy soils, as opposed to clay soils that are prone to waterlogging.
The location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points also matters. So, it is best that the long side faces south so that as much sunlight as possible penetrates into the greenhouse, which will not be reflected from the polycarbonate sheets.
To prevent heat from leaving the greenhouse too quickly and to make it convenient to move around in it, the entrance door is usually located at the end. According to standards, the door width should be no narrower than 70-80 cm, but its height directly depends on the size of the greenhouse itself.
If you are planning to build a more or less permanent greenhouse from corrugated pipe, then you can additionally build a small corridor or vestibule in it. You can store tools and other small items in it. In addition, such a space will allow you to retain heat when opening the door to the greenhouse itself.
The frame for constructing a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands must be placed on a strip or columnar foundation, the type of which will depend on the type of soil. In any case, you need to remove debris from the area under the foundation and remove upper layer soil.
Sequence of work when constructing a greenhouse from a profile
In general, the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from profile pipes includes four main stages:
- Marking.
- Pouring the foundation.
- Assembling the frame structure.
- Polycarbonate sheathing.
First, they mark out a place for the future greenhouse from a profile pipe and drive wooden pegs around its perimeter, onto which a rope is pulled.
Next, they begin to build the foundation. Frame construction made from a profile pipe, which will be transferred to the supports, is quite strong and not prone to deformation. Therefore, a columnar foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes is often sufficient for a greenhouse.
The columnar foundation is poured as follows:
- holes are drilled in the ground at a certain distance from each other, with a diameter exceeding the size of the pipes;
- Asbestos pipes themselves are immersed in the resulting pits;
- the gaps between the pipes and the soil are filled with filler and compacted thoroughly;
- cement mortar is poured inside the pipe, making sure that there are no voids in it;
- in the upper part of the poured pipe, a metal plate or piece of reinforcement is immersed in concrete, which will serve as a coupling for the foundation with the frame structure.
Assembling the body from profile pipes begins from the end sections of the structure. The pipe sections are connected to each other by welding, using tees, angles, and also using couplings. The welds are much stronger and the structure is more stable. However, if you want to make the frame collapsible, then it is better to use couplings.
On last stage start covering the body with polycarbonate sheets. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that moisture does not penetrate into the cells of the material.
Please note that when attaching polycarbonate, its cells should be located at an angle or vertically. A horizontal position will not allow moisture to drain and will deteriorate the quality of the material.
If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with a house, with a full gable roof, then in addition to the front door, you need to cut vents in it. Well, small arched greenhouses can only get by with a door.
How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse using the “cold” method
Arched greenhouses made from profile pipes for summer cottages are the most stable and, at the same time, practical structures. Thanks to their streamlined shape, arch-shaped greenhouses are able to withstand strong gusts of wind, and precipitation does not accumulate on them. winter period. However, to create such a structure, you must first bend the pipes (read: “How to bend a profile pipe - options and methods of bending”). In this case, there may be two options - contact specialists for professional help or do the work yourself using a pipe bender. Another alternative option is to do the bending yourself using improvised means. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, you will need a radius template.
There can be two methods of cold bending of profile pipes - with or without the use of filler. If the body is to be assembled from profiles with a thickness of up to 10 mm, then pipe bending can be done without filler. But for bending corrugated pipes with thicker walls, it is better to pour rosin or sand into them.
As an option, there is a bending method using a thick spring, the cross-section of which will allow it to be pushed into the pipe cavity. The spring properties of such a device will make it possible to bend the pipes quite well without changing the cross-section of the profile at the bend.
Thus, you can bend profile pipes in a “cold” way in two ways:
- use available tools and mechanisms - bending plates and similar tools;
- use a portable or manual factory pipe bender.
A fairly primitive, but nevertheless effective device for cold bending of profiles are bending plates with holes. Rods are placed in these recesses, which will serve as a stop when bending. The pipe is placed between two rods, which are installed in the slab at a distance from the deformation radius. Then they begin to bend the profile, moving from the center of the workpiece to its edges.
It is worth noting that this manual method of cold pipe deformation is quite labor-intensive, and the result will depend on the effort expended on bending.
Method of bending profile pipes with preheating
A similar pipe bending technique is used in cases where the prepared profile products have a sufficiently large wall thickness. The profile must first be filled with sifted sand so that the result of the work is a high-quality, uniform bend. In addition, you need to prepare funds personal protection– thick gloves and safe source fire.
The hot bending technique looks like this:
- At the first stage, wooden plugs for the pyramid-shaped pipe are made. The length of such a workpiece should be 10 times greater than the width of its base, and the area of the wide part should be at least twice as large as the pipe lumen.
- When the workpiece fits the size of the pipe, small grooves are made in it on four sides, through which gases formed when the pipe is heated will escape. The second plug does not need to be processed.
- Next, the treated section of the pipe is pre-fired.
- Any fine filler must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling into the pipe. This way you will get rid of large particles that can be imprinted on the surface of the pipe when heated. After this, very fine sand particles are removed using a 0.7 mm sieve so that they do not sinter when heated inside the pipe.
- The prepared sand is calcined at 150 ℃.
- A blind plug without grooves is installed on one side of the pipe. On the other side, a funnel is placed in the corrugated pipe, through which calcined sand is poured inside in small portions.
- By periodically tapping the walls, you can make sure that the sand is well compacted - the sound will be dull. As soon as the pipe is completely filled with sand, insert a second plug with gutters.
- The location of the future bend of the pipe is marked with chalk. After this, the pipe section must be securely secured in a vice, placing it on the template. Please note that products with welded seams must be bent so that the connection point is located on the side. But bending along the weld seam is not worth it.
- According to the markings, they begin to heat the metal until it turns red. When the material becomes soft enough, it is given the required shape in one smooth and precise movement.
- When the workpiece has cooled, the bend is compared with the template. If the work is done perfectly, you can pull out the plugs and pour sand out of the profile.
It is advisable that all work hot bending, were carried out in one step. Each subsequent heating will cause the metal to lose its strength.
In conclusion, we note that, by and large, even novice builders can cope with the construction of a greenhouse for a summer residence from profile pipes. Regardless of its design, all basic work will be carried out according to the general principle. The only differences may be the landscape features and the preferences of the owners, which will need to be taken into account during construction.
A greenhouse made from a profile pipe: drawings with dimensions, a do-it-yourself greenhouse, a project from a corrugated pipe for an arched greenhouse
A greenhouse made from a profile pipe: drawings with dimensions, a do-it-yourself greenhouse, a project from a corrugated pipe for an arched greenhouse
Do-it-yourself frame made from a profile pipe for a polycarbonate greenhouse: step-by-step instructions, drawings and nuances
To take advantage of all the advantages of a greenhouse on garden plot, even at the design stage it makes sense to pay special attention to the choice of materials for the frame and walls.
The durability of the greenhouse will depend on the strength of the frame, and the well-being of the plants will depend on the properties of the covering material. Best combination demonstrates these requirements pair “profile pipe/cellular polycarbonate”.
Features of a greenhouse on a frame made of profile pipes
Cellular polycarbonate according to its characteristics almost perfect for use as a material for greenhouses.
It transmits almost the entire spectrum of solar radiation due to the presence air gap holds heat well and is absolutely insensitive to humidity levels.
However, the rigidity of polycarbonate does not mean the possibility of constructing frameless greenhouses. Under their own weight, the plastic sheets will quickly begin to bend, their edges will begin to crumble, and cracks will run along the surface of the panels. Therefore, having a frame is vital.
Metal profile pipe has a number of advantages before other frame materials:
- big mechanical strength allows you not only to easily withstand the entire plastic walls of the greenhouse, but also to withstand snow loads of up to 300 kg/m2;
Design options
Exists several types of tube frame greenhouses:
- Rectangular with gable roof. Such greenhouses look like ordinary Vacation home and are the most widespread. Their convenience lies in the significant internal volume, which allows you to grow tall plants not only in the central part of the greenhouse, but also along the walls.
The material usually used is pipes with a cross section of either 20x20 mm or 20x40 mm. The latter have such a margin of safety that they can be used for any structural elements. But they do not have the smallest mass and the cost is not always justified for greenhouse farming.
Preparation for construction
Where should you start building a greenhouse made of polycarbonate and a profile pipe with your own hands?
The presence of a durable metal frame makes it possible to place the greenhouse in any convenient place personal plot. It can cope with any wind loads without additional protection in the form of trees or walls of permanent buildings.
However, there remains a need to take into account soil properties. Excess moisture in the greenhouse will not lead to anything good, so the soil under it should be as dry as possible. Typically, soils with a high sand content are the driest. An abundance of clay may indicate a high risk of waterlogging.
Greenhouses are oriented to cardinal directions so that one long side faces south. This way you can capture sunlight at a large angle, eliminating its reflection from the mirror-smooth polycarbonate.
Once you have decided on a location, you can begin. to determining the dimensions of the greenhouse and making a drawing. It is not recommended to abandon the latter, since it is impossible to carry out the plan without errors without a paper diagram indicating all dimensions.
Greenhouse dimensions and the sizes of its individual elements are chosen not only taking into account own desires, but also based on the actual length available material. The less scraps left, the cheaper the greenhouse will be.
Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of polycarbonate (drawing) from a profile pipe.
Construction technology
How to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands from a profile pipe? All work is divided into several stages:
- Marking. Markings are made using pegs and twine stretched between them along the perimeter of the future greenhouse. In the future, this design will help you avoid making mistakes when laying out the foundation.
These features make optimal choice in favor of a columnar foundation made of asbestos cement pipes. It is arranged as follows:
- According to the markings, holes are drilled in the ground;
- Cuttings of asbestos-cement pipes are lowered into the resulting holes;
- the free space between the pipe and the walls of the pit is filled with sand or soil (with a tamper);
- the pipe is filled with concrete mortar;
- a section is immersed in concrete at the top cut metal plate or fittings. These elements will be needed to connect the greenhouse frame to the foundation.
Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of polycarbonate (drawing), from a profile pipe: preparation for construction and features of construction
Profile pipe as load-bearing frame for a greenhouse will help you take full advantage of all the benefits of cellular polycarbonate. I figured out how to build a greenhouse with my own hands from polycarbonate and from a profile pipe. Instructions, drawings, photos and videos.