Construction of a frame house from foundation to roof. How the structure of a frame house is assembled: the best options Construction of the walls of a frame house

Construction wooden houses frame structure has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very fast process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.

The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less costs and physical effort. In addition, if the façade of a house is decorated with one of the modern materials that imitate brick, wood or stone, then its walls will be impossible to distinguish from solid ones.

Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of an entire team. If you decide to carry out construction yourself and complete it during a warm and dry period summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. In case the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction to at least the rafter structure and the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.

What is frame construction?

If we consider in general, then the frame structure of the house consists of a lower and upper frame, which fastens the vertically installed posts that form the frame of the external and interior walls. The base for the floors and attic floor consists of load-bearing beams made of timber. The rafter system is also erected from beams, and roof covering. It is desirable that it does not have too much mass.

Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.

How to insulate a frame house?

When choosing, you need to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for frame house great value have flammability of the material and its stability .

On the pages of our portal there are many materials that tell in detail.

After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - this can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (CSP).

Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw base is suitable for it, and if you plan to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the base part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.

Foundation for a frame structure

Any construction begins with a foundation, and as stated above, you can choose any type of it (except, perhaps, a monolithic “floating” slab - there is no need for it).

Marking of future construction and earthworks

Before you start digging trenches for the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the overall volume of work, will depend on it. So How Not have to make unnecessary efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.


  • Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists of installing wooden stakes with stretched cords that visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.

This kind of “drawing” identifies all the load-bearing walls of the building if a strip foundation is selected. If you are planning a columnar or pile-screw version, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).


  • Trenches can be dug manually or, if this process needs to be carried out quickly, special construction equipment can be used, with the help of which this entire operation will be completed in one day.
  • To dig holes under a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, use a regular hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes much faster required diameter to the required depth.

These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have additional space on the site and free passage to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will be many times more expensive.

  • At the stage of digging a pit, sewerage is carried out. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the soil freezing level in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.

If a columnar foundation is being installed, then the section of pipe running from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.

Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.

Construction of the foundation

In order to specifically focus on one type of foundation, you need to imagine what they are.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip with a reinforcement grid in its design. The height of the basement can be different, but if the house construction plan includes basement, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, and in this case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, we must not forget about the ventilation holes, which will not allow moisture to accumulate under the building.


"Classic" strip foundation

If you immediately take measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.

Columnar foundation


1 – foundation pillar;

2 – strapping beams;

3 – floor beams;

4 – subfloor logs.

A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars located in the correct order, according to the markings. The supports are buried depending on the types and location of soil layers in the area and the massiveness of the future structure.

Are you choosing a columnar foundation?

For a frame house on stable ground - very good decision. All installation details can be found in a special article.

Pile-screw foundation

A screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed into desired depth at points, according to the markings carried out in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground surface, is tied with a metal grillage or metal jumpers, and then with a powerful beam. This will become the basis for the lower trim of the frame structure itself.


The good thing about the pile-screw design is that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rough area, with a difference in height - then bringing the piles to one horizontal level will not be difficult.

to the same height.

It will not be possible to screw in screw piles on your own - you will have to either invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

Construction of the frame Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof


– the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the pillars or tape) on which the lower frame beam will be installed is covered with roofing felt, which will create a moisture-proof seal.

The roofing material is spread in several layers, preferably using a “hot” method on tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm larger than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.

Bottom harness

The harness is made of timber measuring 150×150 or 200×150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and secured to the foundation supports (strip) using pins or anchors, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is constructed from. Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.


At the end of this work, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can support the main structure of the frame. In the case when the timber used does not have the proper cross-sectional size, two, and sometimes three, parts are stacked one on top of the other.


Moreover, the upper beam of the trim is mounted on the lower beam so that possible places butt joints, if any, were not located one above the other.

If the wooden frame is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width coincides with the width of the concrete base.


Basement beams and flooring

Beams basement floor

Strength qualities of the frame in maximum degree depend on the quality and cross-section of the frame beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross-section depends on both the length of the spans and the spacing of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:

Table of cross-sections of floor beams for a frame building:

Cross-section of 1st grade lumber usedSpan length (mm)
3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000
Attic floor
Board
160×501200 900 650 500 420 - -
200×501850 1350 1050 800 650 550 450
180×802400 1750 1350 1050 850 700 600
timber Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
140×180- - - 1800 1480 1200 1050
150×200- - - 2400 2000 1650 1400
160×220- - - - 2500 2000 1750
Basement and interfloor ceilings
Board Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
160×50800 600 450 - - - -
200×501250 900 700 550 450 - -
180×801200 1200 900 700 650 450 -
timber Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
140×180- - 1550 1200 1300 800 700
150×200- - - 1650 1700 1000 900
160×220- - - 2000 1900 1400 1100
  • The next step is securing the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which cuts are made in both elements.

The beams should give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the building area is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each room separately.


  • After the installation of the basement floor beams is completed, flooring will be required for further work. And here many craftsmen prefer and advise beginners to immediately install floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative coating). However, with this type of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of thick polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
  • All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.

  • At the same stage it is necessary to raise sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewerage pipe will be passed.

Sub flooring


  • To lay the subfloor, skull blocks are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
  • Next comes laying and securing the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less ventilated.

Installation of insulating floor pie

  • The next step is to cover the subfloor and floor beams with a waterproofing membrane, which uses dense polyethylene. It is usually secured using staples.
  • Next, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If you plan to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.

  • A layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, and then attached or batten, or sheet material. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.

IN Lately Instead of plywood, cement-bonded particle boards are often used, which can be used not only for floor coverings, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and performance characteristics, is not inferior, and in some ways even superior to its “competitors”.


The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of ​​them and help you make a choice.

CharacteristicsRating the material using a 5-point system
Average score2.9 3 3.3 3.6 4.1
MDF Chipboard Plywood OSB DSP
Strength2 3 4 4 4
Resistance to external aggressive influences1 2 3 5 5
Dimensional stability2 3 3 3 4
Weight2 2 3 3 2
Manufacturability of machining3 4 4 5 5
Manufacturability of painting5 3 3 2 4
Defects: knots, delamination, delamination, etc.5 4 3 5 5

Sheets of floor covering material are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or other covering is fixed to the joists.

It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing felt sheets are often laid with an overlap of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic using a “hot” method.

Construction of a wall frame, top trim

Once the bottom chord is completed, you can proceed to the construction of the wall frame. First of all, you need to install corner posts, which usually have larger size in cross section than intermediate ones.


  • The racks must be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is standard width insulation mats, but if necessary they can be placed with a different pitch, for example, 400 mm. You can attach intermediate posts, just like corner posts, in different ways:
  • The racks can first be secured using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create rigidity of the structure.
  • Another option would be to install the racks on the strapping belt at the time when the floor is already installed, or before its installation.

— If fastening is carried out after the floor has been laid, then grooves are cut out near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and secured to the beam and frame using self-tapping screws.

— If the racks are attached before installing the floor, this can be done using an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to the inside of the rack and the trim beam.


— The third option is to install racks with diagonal supports (mitters), which are installed on both sides and screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed.


— The fourth method of attaching racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a frame or into an additional reinforcing beam nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.

  • When installing racks, you cannot forget about window and door openings. They are designated by transverse bars, which for rigidity are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing posts. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.

  • Each of the racks is aligned with the greatest care vertically in two planes using a building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper slats, which will fix them in the correct position.

  • When the racks stand rigidly enough, they must be united with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally secured using corners or spacer slopes, secured diagonally.

  • The top frame beams must have the same width as vertical racks. Special attention is paid to their reliable fastening, since they will become the basis for the beams attic floor and, therefore, all rafter system generally.
  • To ensure that the structure of the wall frame is strong, after installing the top frame, it is recommended to immediately cover the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. The sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to the vertical posts.

Prices for various types of timber

Video - The biggest mistakes when building a frame house

Attic beams and roof structure

Once the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, the attic floor beams can be installed.

  • They are fixed exactly above the studs of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as the material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them to 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or board of the top trim.

Fastening is done using a metal corner, which is screwed on one side to the frame and the other to the beam. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.


  • Next, you can proceed to the installation of the rafter system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the attic floor beams, on which you can move during the work process.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house

Insulation and finishing works

After that To Once the roof has been erected over the house, external windows and doors should be installed. This process is carried out before insulation work so that all cracks and gaps that may form during the installation of window and door units can be simultaneously closed. After this, you can move on to insulating the walls, attic floor and roof.

The walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this, thermal insulation materials are used, which have already been mentioned in our publication.

  • If the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then a wall is installed from the inside between the racks, which then must be covered on top with a vapor barrier film.

  • For additional insulation, thermal insulation materials are also installed on the outside of the walls. To do this, a sheathing is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.

A windproof, vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

  • Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:

— cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;

- a subfloor is laid on them;

— the floor is covered with waterproofing;

- then goes insulation material(expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, polystyrene foam, etc.);

— the insulation is covered with waterproofing on top;

- boards or plywood of the “white” attic floor are mounted on top of it.

  • It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat escapes through the ceilings and the roof. To do this, insulation is laid between the rafters, which is covered with a vapor barrier on the attic side, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-bonded particle boards or moisture-resistant plasterboard.

The sheathing can be secured to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal batten.

  • Having completed the insulation work, you can move on to the external cladding of the house with decorative material. It can be chosen to suit every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, “block house” or other modern materials.

Siding with insulation is a solution to several problems at once!

The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather conditions, and the house itself acquires completeness, neatness and individuality.

How – read in a special publication on our portal.

  • Internal lining can also be done in different ways:

- plasterboard, making it perfect smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;

wooden clapboard, making the house cozy and bringing natural freshness into it;

- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.


Interior decoration of a frame house - at the request of the owners

In conclusion finishing works, decorative panels - slopes and trims - are mounted around windows and doors.

If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be added after all the work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build it together with the walls.

Electrics can be installed both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after finishing the cladding with decorative material. The latter installation method has recently been used more and more often, since it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out renovation work without opening decorative finishing. However, modern technologies allow the use of other options.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house - special attention!

Say what you will, but there is a fire hazard wooden house always higher than stone. Any “liberties” in electrical installation are simply unacceptable!

How to install it correctly is described in detail in a special article on the portal.

If you decide to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, or better yet, several. In this situation, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.

The main thing is to act in accordance with the technological instructions during the construction process when performing all types of work, to carry them out carefully, harmoniously and consistently.

And in conclusion, to complete the overall picture - a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages frame houses.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: frame house - “pros” and “cons”

The walls of a frame house are a multilayer structure, the features of which are fully known only to professionals. However House master will be able to master such technology in order to carry out the work without outside professional help.

Construction of frame walls

The structure of the walls of a frame house involves several layers. This technology, which is used to carry out such construction, has found wide distribution; today it has become clear even to private developers. It is important before starting work to decide what materials to use, as well as in what order to arrange them. You can’t do without a frame, because it’s this kind of scheme that gave the technology its name.

You will need a vapor barrier layer, lathing, finishing materials, OSB, mineral insulation, which may take the form of mats. Having these materials, you can create the right “pie” from them. The formation of a multilayer wall begins with the construction of a frame, which is made of timber. A layer of thermal insulation should be placed between the racks, and then move towards the facade. There will be a 15mm oriented strand board, and then vertical and horizontal sheathing, between which the membrane is located. Last to go decorative material. The membrane will perform the function of wind protection. The construction of the walls inside will be somewhat simpler; for this you need to use a vapor barrier and sheathing.

For reference

In order to prevent air stagnation indoors, it will be necessary to install forced ventilation. After all, oriented strand board is a material that does not allow air to pass through well.

If you will be constructing the walls of a frame house, then it is important to determine at the first stage whether the construction will be residential in the cold season or whether it is intended to be used as a summer house. This affects If we are talking about summer country building, then you can save on racks that will have a smaller cross-section. But with a house for year-round residence the situation is different. In addition, for country house you can use cheaper ones finishing materials, because the requirements for the appearance of the building are not so serious.

When installing the walls of a frame house, heat and vapor insulation are, of course, also selected. In this case, a lot depends on the region where you are going to build. If we are talking about the northern part of the country, then the emphasis should be on energy saving; the structure should have two layers of insulation. However, if it’s hot outside most of the year and high humidity, then you should additionally use a vapor barrier, which is laid with outside insulation, whereas for cold regions such a “pie” scheme is contraindicated.

Description of frame walls: pros and cons

It is quite possible to construct the walls of a frame house with your own hands. But before that, it is recommended to consider all the pros and cons of such buildings. The main advantage is speed, because the house can be assembled in a few months, which ensures the absence of shrinkage, which in other cases requires waiting until the walls take their final position. Among other things, the above method is relatively inexpensive.

Thanks to modern materials In just a few months, you can bring to life any wildest fantasy, and the house will turn out to be durable and reliable. But you should pay attention to weak points. Undoubtedly, today there are many means that are used to improve the fire safety qualities of materials. But despite all this, insects and rodents can still live in the wood. Therefore, before starting construction, it is necessary to implement measures to combat these pests.

Construction of frame walls

The construction of a frame house was described above; now we can move on to the practical part of the question. At the first stage, preparation is carried out, and it is necessary to decide on the quantity building material. It is important to prepare certain tools, including:

  • drill;
  • plumb line;
  • construction ruler;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • level;
  • square;
  • metal scissors;
  • jigsaw

Among other things, do not forget about purchasing antiseptic agents used to process wooden elements to make them fire-resistant and protect them from pests. The thickness of the walls will depend on the purpose of the building; this parameter is influenced by the cross-section of the racks. Therefore, the support area should be equal to 50 cm 2. First you need to install bottom trim, which is laid on the waterproofing layer of the foundation. Afterwards, logs are installed in the grooves. All angles must be right, among other things, the elements are aligned horizontally. To simplify the work, it should be maintained which will be equivalent to the thickness of the thermal insulation. All elements are treated with antiseptic agents. After this you can start installation corner posts. They are fixed with the upper harness, only after the master can install the intermediate bars. Experts advise checking at each stage whether the vertical and horizontal are respected, because the final result will depend on this.

Work on corners, top floor. Finishing

The construction of the walls of a frame house in detail, which is described in the article, will allow you to eliminate mistakes. Thus, the next step will be the processing of corners, which include window and door openings. Fixation is carried out with metal corners, which are secured with screws. At the next stage, floor joists are installed; the technology will be similar to that used when laying floor elements. However, in in this case their length should be slightly longer. The racks are fixed using jibs.

It was mentioned above that the frame walls contain mineral wool-type insulation. However, you can choose any suitable thermal insulation. If you want your home to be warm enough even in the frosty winter, a layer of thermal insulation needs to be strengthened between the frame posts. At the next stage, waterproofing is laid, and it is necessary to ensure that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. Laying is carried out in the direction from bottom to top. Experts recommend filling thin bars on top, with the help of which a ventilation gap is formed. At the final stage, external finishing materials are laid.

Interior work

The walls of a frame house, the structure and main elements of which are described in the article, must also be finished from the inside. In this case, fewer layers are used; only vapor barrier and finishing material need to be applied. The latter can be chipboard or plywood, and, if desired, drywall. If you plan to make the premises residential, you should pay attention to environmental friendliness finishing coating. If it contains harmful substances, then it may have Negative influence on human health. For example, some types of chipboard are unsuitable for such use.

Construction of internal walls

The construction of the internal walls of a frame house can be carried out using bars, the cross-section of which can be 40x60 or 30x50 mm. The frame can be assembled using self-tapping screws or nails; fastening plates are less commonly used. The frame wall can be made from a regular plasterboard profile. You can create a frame with stiffening ribs, and sheet material is sewn on top of it.

Construction of frame houses

The construction of a frame house from the foundation to the roof involves the creation at the first stage of a cheap foundation (possibly a strip foundation). The building can be secured to the foundation with bolts, crutches with anchor ties, or a wedge. Construction load-bearing walls was described above, but after completing this stage you can start working on the roof. For this purpose, they are used with a square cross-section, the side of which is 150 mm. Permanent wind braces are installed in the corners flush with the posts. A board with a section of 150x50 mm is laid on them. The roof frame is reinforced with ties; the pitch between the rafters should be equal to twice the distance between the frame posts.

The frame house has won the love not only of the residents of America, Canada and Finland, but also among our people. Why? The answer is simple: such houses are quickly erected, economical to use, retain heat well, and can be built on any soil and at any time of the year. In addition, there is nothing complicated in the construction of frame house structures, and you can install them yourself.

Types of materials used, their pros and cons

Traditionally, wood is used in the construction of frame houses. It has the following advantages:

  • inexpensive material
  • lightweight material
  • can be treated with your own hands with septic tanks and fire protection
  • nails, bolts, and other fixing elements easily fit into it
  • the lightness of wood allows the use of mounting adhesive in some cases
  • re rusts
  • completely environmentally friendly
  • has a pleasant smell of wood, especially conifers

Don't forget to check all elements for geometry. The vertical posts must be strictly vertical, and the angle between the bottom frame and the beam must be exactly 90 degrees. The strapping should lie at the same level; its quality largely depends on the evenness of the foundation. A distortion of a few millimeters is allowed, but not more than 10 mm. Horizontal beams must lie strictly horizontally, the distance between the beginning of the beam and the bottom frame must correspond to the distance between the end of the beam and the frame.

Pie Wall: Best Options

It is believed that the pie frame wall has better thermal characteristics when compared with block or brick walls. This opinion has a right to life, since a frame wall has much lower thermal conductivity. What does it mean? When the air inside such a house is heated, the walls practically do not heat up, so much less energy is spent on heating. At the same time, the multilayer design allows for a long time save air comfortable temperature, since walls do not absorb heat like bricks and blocks. In cement houses, the air will not become warm and comfortable until the walls heat up, and this requires both time and electricity.

A simple wall pie consists of the following layers: interior decoration, OSB sheets, vapor barrier membrane, insulation, waterproofing, OSB sheets, external or exterior finishing. This is the simplest pie and the most common, but there are some ways to improve the quality of your home.

If your home is in an area where winds often blow, you will need an additional layer of wind protection. For this external walls houses are additionally insulated with foam plastic sheets. It is this material that is recommended by experts for additional external wind protection, primarily because it is not afraid of moisture that can get in from the outside.

Sometimes external insulation made with stone wool, as it is more heat-resistant. But due to its ability to absorb moisture, external wall insulation with this material is irrational.

Read about how to insulate a house with mineral wool.

Since frame houses inherently resemble a thermos that retains heat, the issue of ventilation arises. Without air change and movement, condensation in the form of water droplets can accumulate on the walls, and the oxygen level in the air itself decreases. The ventilation of a frame house installed during construction solves this problem. And additional drying of the walls from condensation can be ensured by replacing the waterproofing in the wall with a vapor barrier. The membrane should be placed so that moisture does not enter the wall from outside, but can still come out of the wall both inside and outside the house.

Elements of the future building

Since the construction of a frame house occurs gradually, and a new stage of construction begins after the completion of the previous stage, it is important to know what structural elements of the house exist. So, the house consists of:

  1. Foundation. Construction of the foundation is the most important stage of construction. This is the foundation of the house, on which the long-term operation of the building largely depends.
  2. Trims and walls. The lower frame fixes the walls to the foundation, and the upper one connects all 4 walls into one structure. Walls consist of certain layers, which we discussed above.
  3. Floor. It can be made in the form of a cement screed on concrete or be made of wood, the basis of which is made up of logs.
  4. Roof. It depends on the type of roof and appearance building, and its quality, especially if there is a residential attic or heated attic under the roof. The roof also consists of several layers, including insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing, sheathing and roofing material. If flexible tiles are used, the roof must include OSB sheets, on which the material is laid.
  5. External and internal decoration is not an element of the house's design, but is the final stage in the formation of the building.

Each element of the building is built one by one in accordance with frame construction technology. Read about how to make a floor in a frame house.

Filimonov Evgeniy

Reading time: 10 minutes

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How is a frame house constructed? Stages of work. Step-by-step instruction construction. Myths of framers. Types of materials for interior and exterior decoration.

Before creating a house made of wood, you need to know in detail the structure of a frame house. What are the features of creating a foundation? How a frame house is built. What does the construction of frame walls look like? Recommendations for frame construction. What are the advantages and disadvantages of frame walls. Features of the construction of frame structures. How to work on corners and top floors.

How finishing is carried out. How do they happen? interior work in a frame house. Features of the external cladding. Wall thickness depending on the region. How is waterproofing and vapor barrier performed? What does vinyl and metal siding mean? Nuances of lining and blockhouse. When using brick, tile and plaster. Nuances of use artificial stone and thermal panels.

Technology for erecting frame frames according to Canadian and Finnish technology. Step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame structure. Myths about frame buildings.

Frame housing construction is notable for the fact that houses are built very quickly.

They can be placed on almost any ground due to their light weight. There is an opinion that frame houses are temporary houses. However, it is not. If a building is built according to all the rules, it will last for quite a long time, and it will be comfortable to live in.

It’s not difficult to build such a house even by yourself. But for this you need to know the structure of a frame house.

Like every house, a frame house also begins with a foundation. Since the weight of the building is small, a shallow strip foundation is usually constructed, which is inexpensive and easy to make.

To build the foundation, a site is marked in the place where the house will stand. The site is being leveled. Marking is done using rope and pegs.

A strip foundation is called a strip foundation because it is a concrete strip that runs under each wall of the future house.

If the soil is good, then it is enough to deepen the strip foundation by 80 cm - 1 meter. But still, it is recommended to deepen the foundation to the depth of soil freezing. For Russia, middle zone, this is 1.5 meters.

Using the completed markings, trenches are dug to the required depth. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the trench, and sand is placed on top of it. This pillow is carefully compacted. The formwork is then constructed from boards or other suitable material. Reinforcement is installed inside the formwork.

For reinforcement, use a metal rod 10-12 mm thick. The rod is knitted using knitting wire so that the reinforcement is a lattice with a pitch of 25-30 cm. It is not recommended to use welding to attach the rod. The formwork is raised above the ground by 50 cm. This is how much the foundation will rise above ground level.
When the reinforcement is completed, you need to prepare a concrete mixture. Since the foundation needs to be poured at one time, it is best to use a concrete mixer to prepare the concrete. The proportions of cement, sand and crushed stone are 1/3/5.

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Filimonov Evgeniy

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In order for the concrete to be of high quality, washed sand with medium or large grains and cement of a grade not lower than M200 are used.

After concrete mixture ends up in the formwork, it is compacted with a vibrator so that the solution is evenly distributed between the reinforcement bars. If you don’t have a vibrator, you can use an ordinary bayonet shovel.

Now the foundation should gain strength. This is also very important stage construction, since the strength of the entire building depends on the strength of the foundation.

The structure dries within 4-6 weeks. During drying, in hot weather, it is recommended to cover the concrete strip with rags soaked in water. When it rains, cover with plastic.

After the foundation tape has dried and gained strength, you can begin building the house.

Construction of a frame house

The house is called a frame house because it is a wooden frame installed on a foundation. This frame is insulated and sheathed with finishing materials. Outside and inside.

It is quite simple to build a frame house with your own hands. Below, around the perimeter of the house, a square wooden beam is placed. This is the so-called lower crown. It is placed on the foundation strip, on which two layers of roofing felt are previously laid for waterproofing.

Then, the frame racks are attached to the beam using a tongue-and-groove connection.

It is not recommended to use metal parts for fastening.

Racks are made of timber and boards. The timber, which is installed vertically, gives the house additional strength.

But sometimes they make do with boards alone. The dimensions of the board depend on the planned thickness of the walls.

It is recommended to install racks of boards at a distance of approximately 60 cm from each other. The same distance is subsequently left between the roof rafters. Triangles of rigidity are made in the corners, which also give additional strength to the structure.
After the racks are installed, the upper crown of timber is mounted on top. The ceiling will be attached to the upper crown, and the floor boards will be attached to the lower one.

Floor installation in a frame house

Before laying the floor, a layer of expanded clay is poured between the foundation strips.

The floor can be made of wood or concrete. In the case of a concrete floor, a layer of concrete is simply poured onto the expanded clay, a cement screed is made, and linoleum, carpet, or some other covering is installed on top.

To make a wooden floor, you need to lay joists on the bottom crown, and lay floorboards on the joists.

It is recommended to do additional insulation from sheets of any suitable insulation. You can use both polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Penoflex or some other material with good thermal insulation characteristics.

In the case of a wooden floor, the insulation is placed between the expanded clay and the floor boards.

If the floor is cement, then the insulation can be installed under cement screed, and above it, under the floor covering. Of course, in the second case, the insulation sheets must be quite rigid.

Wall insulation

The manufactured frame of the house will be clad inside and out. Thermal insulation is attached between the cladding. This is the construction of the walls of a frame house.

Moreover, we must not forget that with inside foil polyethylene is installed at home for vapor barrier. It is mounted between the insulation and the inner surface of the finish.

On the outside, reliable waterproofing must be made, which would protect the insulation from precipitation and moisture. It may be roofing material, or another suitable material. There should also be a vapor barrier, just like on the inside.

If mineral wool is used as insulation, then these should be dense slabs. Otherwise, the vata will sink down under its own weight.

The choice of insulation must be approached responsibly. After all, the house should be warm.

External cladding

Many materials can be used as exterior cladding. For example, it could be lining or tongue and groove boards. The boards should be tongue-and-groove so that there are no gaps between them. You can also use ordinary boards, but they need to be mounted with an overlap, in a herringbone pattern. Can also be used facing brick. You can clad the outside of the house OSB boards and cover it with siding.

Interior decoration

For interior finishing, plasterboard is most often used. This material is easy to install, and all defects that may arise during the installation process can be easily puttied. A smooth surface is formed, suitable for both wallpapering and painting. However, for interior decoration You can use both chipboard and plywood. It's just preferable to use drywall.

Roof installation

First, the so-called “black ceiling” is made. To do this, a flooring made from various waste wood products is attached to the upper crown. A layer of expanded clay is poured on top of the flooring.

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The rafters are attached to the top beam. The distance between the rafters is also 60 cm. This gives even greater integrity to the entire frame.

Roofing material is attached to the rafters. His choice depends only on the desire of the owner and the budget. This short description roof installations for a frame house.

Building a frame house is similar to assembling a construction set. The wooden frame house is assembled in accordance with the diagram. At the same time, the strength and reliability of the future structure depends on the quality of the assembly components. What are the features of the main components and connections of a frame house? And how to properly fix the lower and upper trims, racks, jibs, and crossbars?

Bottom trim connection nodes

The lower one is a frame made of wooden beams or several boards knocked together, which is laid on top. So-called planks - boards - are placed on the concrete foundation under the bottom frame. They perform main function– level the foundation and hide those flaws that could have been made during its pouring.

The beds are attached to the concrete foundation using anchors. The installation sites are located at a distance of no more than 0.5 mm. In this case, at least the ends of the beams are secured with anchors.

Connection of the beam to the concrete foundation.

To install anchors, holes of a certain depth are drilled. They pass through the board and go deep into the thickness of the concrete foundation. The depth of drilling and driving in the anchor is determined by the height of the house wall and the design of the foundation. For traditional 2.5-3 m frame wall on concrete base The depth of lowering the anchor into concrete is 15-20 cm.

The second option for installing anchors is to concrete the anchor studs during the process of pouring the foundation. When casting concrete slab or tapes in specified places, hollow cones with internal threads are inserted into the thickness of unhardened concrete. After the concrete has hardened, anchors are screwed into these elongated cone-shaped studs.

Features of the anchor connection

  • The holes in the beam are drilled 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the anchor pin.
  • Under the heads anchor bolts You can use wide washers to increase the area of ​​their contact with the wooden surface and increase the strength of the fastening joint.

Anchor fastening of the lower trim.

Before fixing, mandatory waterproofing is carried out - roofing material is placed on the concrete or its surface is covered with a special waterproof compound, mastic. After installation, check the horizon. Deviations from the horizontal level are allowed in dimensions of no more than 0.5° per 3 m.

Bottom trim assembly on a columnar foundation

The fastening of structural units of a frame house described above is used on strip and slab foundations. For columnar bases, a different scheme is used:

  • For ease of fastening top part columnar supports must have a flat horizontal head with holes.
  • Place on top of the headrest wooden beams, which perform the function of a grillage.
  • Recesses of the required depth are drilled in the beams. They are drilled under the holes in the headband.
  • Fix the beam with bolts or screws.

Trimmed plank strapping on pile foundation.

On a note

It is necessary to attach the timber to the foundation. Shallowly buried strips and slabs are subject to significant movement when freezing. A reliable connection of the floor and bottom trim ensures the reliability and durability of the entire structure.

Design of frame house components

Vertical frame posts are installed on top of the lower frame and secured with nails. Fastening with metal corners is used for T-shaped connection of beams without cutting. It's easier to do. Fixing beams with metal nails is used at the junction with partial cutting of the lower beam. This is a more difficult connection to do with your own hands.

A joint without cutting is used for corner frame supports. Butt joints with fixation with plates or corners are used in the main components of a frame house, if the construction is carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of professionals. If they work experienced builders, then they use a partial insertion connection. It prevents strong movements of the timber and frame boards when drying out.

On a note

The size of the cutting for the vertical frame post is 30-50% of the thickness of the bottom trim beam.

The corner joint without cutting is fixed with metal plates using wood screws. In this case, reinforced steel corners with several perforations are used. And also durable self-tapping screws in light golden and silver color.

Strengthening the corners for fastening the corners of the house is carried out due to technological processing - the metal plates are hardened during the manufacturing process. Or through the use of metal with a large section thickness, up to 2-3 mm.


Methods of fastening racks.

A notch joint is often used to attach studs in the middle of a wall. The supports are inserted into the prepared recesses and additionally secured with nails. Then they are secured in a vertical position with jibs - diagonally inclined slats that rest against a vertical post on one side and a horizontal frame on the other. For ease of support, the ends of the jib are made beveled - part of the end is cut off.

Temporary jib

During the assembly of the frame, temporary jibs are also installed, which fix several vertical posts. Temporary jibs are placed between the upper and lower trim at an angle. They connect several vertical posts and are fixed with nails.

Temporary jibs are placed on the outside of the frame. To attach them, you do not need to cut down, but they need to be fixed in such a way that upon completion of construction, the temporary auxiliary beams can be easily dismantled. Therefore, nails are used to fix them.


Temporary jibs for racks.

Temporary jibs hold the posts upright until permanent jibs are installed at the bottom and top of each rack. Once the permanent jibs are in place, the temporary fixing beams can be removed.

On a note

The construction project contains a description of the components of a frame wooden house in the drawings. They often do not describe in detail the method of attaching temporary jibs, since they do not bear the main load and support the frame temporarily.

Upper harness knots

The top frame of the frame house is laid on vertical frame supports after installing the corner posts. If the perimeter of the house is large enough (more than 6 m), then in addition corner pillars They also put intermediate ones - in the middle of the wall. And only after that the top harness is placed.

After laying the top row, temporary jibs are attached - across the entire wall. Next, attach the remaining vertical posts and jibs to them. After which the temporary jibs between the upper and lower trim are removed.

It is most convenient to assemble the walls of a frame house in a lying position, knocking together the lower frame, vertical posts, crossbar, jibs and top frame. And only after that, raise the walls to a vertical position, where all that remains is to fasten all the walls of the house together. To firmly connect the walls of a frame house, a second top frame is used, which is overlapped with the first top frame.


Double top knots.

When using a double top trim, you can do without the use of steel corners. In this case, there is no need to partially cut off the ends of the boards, making a “claw” connection. Because such connections with cutting out part of the end violate the integrity of the board and, accordingly, weaken it.

Interfloor beams are placed on top of the second top frame. The beams are laid on the end, the distance between the beams is set depending on the size of the spans and fastened with nails.

Wall corner

The corner of a frame house is the place of maximum heat loss. As a rule, it is in the corners that condensation accumulates and it is them that need to be insulated first. Therefore, even at the stage of assembling the frame, it is necessary to ensure that the corners of the future frame house are warm. How to do it?

Smooth fixing plates are placed on the outside of the vertical beam. They connect adjacent single-level surfaces of the vertical post and horizontal beams. The fixing corners are located on the side. They connect mutually perpendicular surfaces. What else is important to know about angles?

When building in regions with cold climates, not solid wooden beams are used as vertical posts, but a corner post is assembled from separate boards. The resulting structure resembles a well. Insulation is installed in this internal space, which retains heat and limits possible heat loss.


Installation of corners in the frame of the house.

It must also be warm, for this purpose single racks are used, but the load from window and doorways removed using a bolt. The crossbar is fastened along the entire length of the frame wall by cutting into all vertical posts. It is important to take into account that under each window opening There should be at least 1-2 vertical support boards.

Knots of the rafter system

The nodes of the rafter system include all connections between its elements, namely:

  • Fastening floor beams to the top frame.
  • Attaching the rafter beam to the top trim.
  • Fastening the racks on the gables to the top trim and to the outer rafters.
  • Attaching the internal posts to the rafter beam and to the ridge.
  • Fastening struts - inclined beams that support the rafters and rest on the beam.
  • Attaching the crossbar to inclined rafters.
  • Fastening the sheathing.

Knots of the rafter system.

The fastenings listed above can be done using corners or using nails if the elements of the rafter system are connected overlapping each other.

Fasteners

The following elements are used as fasteners for the components of a frame wooden house:

  • Fastening plates (angles or flat plates with or without holes). Plates and angles are attached to beams or supports using wood screws.
  • Staples (straight and angular) are wire fasteners of a certain diameter. Their edges are bent and inserted into the ends or side surfaces of the beams.
  • Bolts - used to tighten adjacent beams and rafters, inserted into through holes and secure them with nuts.
  • Nails.

All connecting fixing and fasteners for frame buildings they are made of metal. For fastening load-bearing elements use reinforced corners made of hardened steel or increased thickness, 3-4 mm. To fasten the supporting elements, use corners made of ordinary steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm.


Variety of fastening elements.

In order to protect against corrosion, galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of corners and plates. Rust protection is especially important in outdoor construction, when metal fasteners in walls can become a point of moisture condensation, causing a section of the wall to become wet. Therefore, galvanized fasteners are in great demand in various components of a frame house.

Node connection errors

A drawing of components requires the presence of sketches and descriptions. However, despite this, novice builders often make offensive mistakes. Let's list the main and most frequently repeated erroneous actions that novice individual builders make when assembling a frame:

Not all jibs are installed. This is not true. The jibs ensure the wall's resistance to wind loads. In addition to the jibs, to withstand the wind it is necessary to use rigid slabs in the outer cladding.

  • Use solid timber or boards placed tightly next to each other as corner posts. This corner will be cold. Moisture will condense and mold will develop.
  • Use “black” screws for fastening. They are not strong enough, especially if not enough was purchased for construction. dry wood. When drying and warping, the “black” screws can simply be “torn off”. More durable option– self-tapping screws of golden and silver color, coated with galvanization or a layer of chromating, phosphating.
  • They use wood that is not dry enough, which causes severe shrinkage and “breaks” existing nodes and connections.
  • And another mistake is not to use nails. These proven fasteners are often stronger than any self-tapping screws.

Frame construction is a new technology in which, despite its apparent simplicity, there are many nuances and features.