Anchor bolt for a plastic window. List of materials and equipment for installing PVC windows

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. Threw it for him short plan actions, but decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We present to your attention instructions for installing plastic windows yourself.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
2. Preparing a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Attaching fasteners to the window frame.
5. Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
6. Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
7. Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with mounting foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Installation of slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house or cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the glazing bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It’s as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you install a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter polyurethane foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is big gap between the window sill and the opening, it is better to seal it with mortar, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Helpful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted, mosquito net. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will look in detail at the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
2. Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
6. Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
7. Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods of installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because it is this more labor-intensive but safer method (for plastic double glazed windows) installation we chose to write the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Helpful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, you need to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tap with a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery to try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, store removed double glazed windows necessary for clean hard surface, and also better double glazing(double-glazed windows) lean against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it down accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between bolts being 700 mm and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening using a concrete screw.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing PVC plastic windows with our own hands according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most difficult and at the same time the most durable types fastenings where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• Shell brick – 60 mm
• blocks of porous natural stone – 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when constructing assembly seams, it is always necessary to adhere to the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and the load-bearing wall is less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure external environment, and also so that moisture can escape from assembly seam, during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

To level, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After this, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After all the anchor fastenings have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if of course it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material- for example brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and sill, all external work on installing a PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and double-glazed window.

First, we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame; it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at this moment you inserted the beadings onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Helpful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for there to be a gap between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile; it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; it is in these grooves that the slopes will be placed. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

— with a four-chamber window profile
- and double-glazed windows
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Helpful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill the metal frame inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon.

This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side, except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom into which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And very serious mistake, which is accepted by the majority - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation.

Helpful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing a door frame, the most important thing is to ensure an even fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Helpful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

The fact that plastic windows are much more reliable, durable and economical than their wooden counterparts has been proven in practice. But the main problem faced by people who want to replace old frames is the high cost of transport and installation of new structures. Even a novice craftsman can carry out installation on his own. You just need to know the nuances and tricks of the upcoming work. It makes more sense to install a new frame on anchor plates.

Figure 1. Scheme of formation of anchor fasteners.

Installation Basics

Now there are 2 methods of installing windows, which differ in the type of fastening unit and the method of fixing the frame to the window opening. This is installation with and without unpacking. To install a window yourself, it is wiser to choose the 2nd option, since it is simpler, does not require special skills, and the work does not take much time. In addition, it helps to avoid errors during installation and makes it quite easy to configure all the fittings.

Installation without unpacking does not imply removing the bead and dismantling the glass unit from the frame. The structure itself is attached to anchor plates. The principle of forming such fasteners is shown in Fig. 1.

Before installing a new window, you must select the correct plates themselves. They come in two types: universal and designed for a specific model. That is, they take into account the requirements of a specific profile system. As a rule, such anchor plates come complete with complex, non-standard structures.

Figure 2. Layout of anchor plates during installation.

Specialized fasteners differ from universal ones in that they are equipped with ears. These elements are installed in the groove of the frame profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. Universal plates do not have special ears. They are simply secured with bolts.

For the installation of window structures, experts recommend choosing bolts of the 4.5*25 type. Their body must be equipped with a metal drill. Since the self-tapping screw is attached to a reinforced structure, another type of fastening may not fit or will not fix the plate very securely.

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Window installation rules

The central plate is fixed exactly in the middle of the frame, and the side plates are fixed approximately at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge of the structure.

As mentioned above, the method of installing a plastic window without unpacking does not require removing the glazing bead and the glass unit itself. This becomes possible due to the fact that the frame is fixed using anchor plates to the outside of the window opening. Otherwise, you have to form through fasteners.

Figure 3. Low tide installation diagram.

But you need to remember that large structures (with an area of ​​more than 4 m2) should not be installed using plates. After all, such a mount may not withstand the weight of the window. In this case, it is wiser to use anchor dowels. For plastic double-glazed windows of small or medium size, plates will be the most rational method of fastening.

Not only large windows, but also doors are secured with dowels. Professionals believe that this installation method is the most reliable. But it has a number of significant disadvantages:

1. Installation with unpacking is difficult even for specialists. Often, with this installation method, the glass unit breaks or cracks form on it.
2. Installation on anchor bolts is almost impossible to do alone.
3. Working with such fasteners requires experience and special skills.
4. The work requires more effort and time.

If you prefer this installation option, then you need to purchase dowels measuring 10*132 mm. In addition, installing anchors requires a powerful hammer drill. Some modern stores that sell equipment for construction and repair provide rental services. Therefore, it is not necessary to buy an expensive device. But it’s easier to install the window on plates.

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Installing a window using plates

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

• electric hammer drill (or drill with impact function);
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw (it’s wiser to use a jigsaw);
• hex key for adjusting fittings;
• anchor plates (5 pcs.);
• bolts (self-tapping screws);
• polyurethane foam in cylinders;
• silicone in cylinders (and a gun for working with it).

Don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a measuring tape, a building level and a square. All necessary marks can be placed with a simple pencil. As a rule, traces of it can be removed from plastic with ordinary dishwashing detergent. When everything you need is prepared, you can begin installing the windows.

When installing plates, the following rules must be observed:

1. For fixation, use only mechanical fasteners (screws). Never use glue or foam.
2. When forming holes for fastenings, use the impact mechanism only if the slope is made of concrete.
3. The drill must be long enough. Make sure that the drill chuck does not damage the window frame. The edge can be protected by placing a piece of PVC next to the socket being drilled.
4. If the wall is made of brick with vertical voids, then the hole must be formed in the seam between the blocks. The solution will “hold” the fastening quite securely.
5. To install self-tapping screws, it is better to use a screwdriver with a torque limiter. This will allow you to control how the fastener fits into the frame and how deep it goes.

Compliance with these simple principles will help you install the window without errors that will be difficult to correct.

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Installing frame mounts

First you need to secure the anchor plates themselves. At the same time, make sure that the distance from one plate to another does not exceed 1 m. If you are going to install a high window, then it is wiser to install an additional fastening unit.

In this case, the distance of the outer elements from the corner of the window structure should be 20-25 cm. There is no point in doing it anymore. Since in this case the frame may lose stability.

Remember that the self-tapping screw with which the plate is fixed to the window must be equipped with a drill.

These bolts are usually marked "for metal". This necessity is explained by the fact that the window is covered with plastic only on the outside. There is an aluminum profile inside the structure.

If you want to use regular bolts, you need to first form holes in the frame. To do this you will need a drill and a metal drill bit. Make sure that the socket is 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw.

If necessary, the anchor plates can be replaced with universal U-shaped brackets measuring 125 mm. Such fasteners are usually used when installing plasterboard boards. But it is wiser to use ready-made anchor plates.

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Window frame installation

Distance from window frame there should be 2-3.5 cm to the opening in the wall. If the gap is smaller, then it is necessary to form recesses in the slopes for installing fasteners. This is done as follows:

1. Install fasteners on the window.
2. Install the frame into the opening provided for it.
3. Mark the location of the plates on the wall. To do this, use a simple pencil or chalk.
4. Remove the window and use a chisel to select the bed. Its depth should not exceed 2 cm, but the plate must fit tightly into it and not protrude beyond the edges.

This technique will help in the further finishing of the window opening. Since the anchor plates do not have to be “hidden” under an additional (sufficiently thick) layer of plaster.

Next, you need to insert the frame into the opening and align its position. To do this, you will need wooden wedges, which must be prepared in advance. The thickness of the wedges should be 0.7-3 cm. The wedges must be installed only under the horizontal crossbars of the structure, while simultaneously aligning the window vertically. Constantly check the position of the frame using a building level. In order to achieve the correct installation of the window, if necessary, several wedges of different thicknesses can be placed in one place at once.

Then you should attach the plates to the window opening. To fix the fastening on a concrete or brick slope, 6*40 dowels are usually used. For wooden slopes, it is wiser to take self-tapping screws designed for woodworking. In this case, mounts measuring 4.2*45 will suit you.

To ensure that the frame does not warp during installation, the plates are attached sequentially. As a rule, installation starts from the left bottom corner, and then fix the lower right one. In this case, you must constantly check the correct installation using a building level. While working, you may accidentally push or move the frame. An incorrectly installed frame will make it difficult to adjust the position of the sashes and install fittings. The top plates are secured last.

Hello readers! I haven't written on the blog for a long time. The season for installing and adjusting windows before winter has begun. Everyone wants to stay warm.

So, many clients are interested in how we attach plastic windows. I’ll say right away that there is no single fastening.

It all depends on where the window is installed. Therefore we can use anchors or plates. In general, I got tired of answering the same questions and I decided to put them in one article, a link to which they will give to all their new clients.

I hope you find this information useful too. Read, get acquainted.

The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:

• Brick;
• Tree;
• Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block;
• Concrete.

Secondly, on the type of construction and technical specifications installation:

• Loggias;
• Entrance doors;
• Window;
• Stained glass.

How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners

1. Anchor or frame dowel. It comes with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.

Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:

A hole is drilled in the window frame using a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Then, using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the concrete, directly through the frame.

I consider this optional. Therefore, as for the dowel head, there is even a special decorative plug. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.

For each type of window profile, especially popular ones, a certain type of anchor plate is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).

By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile.

So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.

It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it with polyurethane foam.

I hope such cases will pass you by.

3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.

4. Screw for concrete. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “Fixtures” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.

How to attach plastic windows to brick?

Brick is a good material for building buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?

If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally.

This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.

It is advisable to choose a frame dowel of the longest possible length (minimum penetration into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.

You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even a solid brick can be Bad quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.

How to attach plastic windows to wood?

The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.

From my bitter experience, I’ll tell you how I fastened windows with screws to the top of the frame in a house made of timber. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.

As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.

By the way, even when building frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.

Anchor plates for wooden houses are good for the following reasons:

• Quick installation;
• Compensates for thermal expansion;
• They do not affect window structures during shrinkage.

How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?

The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.

But it is more correct to attach plastic windows to anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.

How to fix plastic windows in concrete?

If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, lintels are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.

In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But it is more efficient to attach panel and block houses to a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.

As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.

Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.

And finally, I would like to say about the big advantage of anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.

When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.

When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.

PVC windows have long proven themselves with the best side. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the window system was installed. There are only two methods: installing windows on plates and the unpacking method. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the glass unit from the frame. The window structure is secured using anchor plates, which allows you to install the window without any special skills.

Window installation methods

Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.

Unpacking or fastening through the frame using self-tapping screws

This fastening method is characterized by the fact that before installation, the frame must be completely disassembled: the blind and opening doors are removed, and only then installation is carried out through the profile with self-tapping screws.

The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large windows

After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and adjusted again. This option is used for large windows with an area of ​​4 square meters or more to ensure reliable fastening of such a large structure.

Straightening plates are installed between the glass unit and the profile

Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed to avoid contact between the edge of the glass unit and the window profile. Their presence will ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the glass unit and ventilation of the rebated space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the glass unit.

Installation using plates

When installing PVC windows on plates, there is no need to remove the glass unit

Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these same plates. There are models for universal use and those made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with structures of complex shapes. Their peculiarity is that they have special “ears” and can be inserted into existing grooves on the surface of the frame.

Anchor plates with lugs are used with complex window structures

Plates without ears are fastened with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws. Requirements for bolts: 4.5*25 and the presence of a metal drill.

Installation rules

A standard window requires at least five plates. One plate is fixed in the central part of the frame, and two on both sides: one on top and one on bottom. In this case, you should retreat 20 cm from the border of the frame.

To install a standard shaped window, 5 plates are enough

Installing windows without unpacking involves fastening the frame with anchor plates from the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and glass unit. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with preliminary disassembly of the window system into constituent elements: sashes, double glazed windows.

Fastening with plates is appropriate for use on windows of medium and small size, most often these are standard windows residential buildings and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are attached to anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not support it.

Large window systems are installed using anchor dowels

Using anchor dowels they also secure door frames. In professional circles among installers metal-plastic structures This installation method is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:

• This type of installation is difficult even for professionals. There is a high risk of damage to the glass unit when removed from the frame;
• This type of fixation by one person is often not possible;
• This is a labor-intensive method that takes considerable time and requires appropriate skills.

When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of glass damage

If you want to install the window yourself using this method, you will need to buy 10*132 mm dowels. Among the tools, you will need a powerful hammer drill - this device is professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is not advisable to purchase it for the installation of one or two windows. You can look for a company that rents out construction equipment; usually hammer drills are the most popular product.

By installing the window on plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just need to buy the plates themselves.

Difficulties associated with bolt-on installation

A few more reasons why you shouldn’t bother with bolt-on mounting when installing it yourself, but prefer plates. In order to fasten the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to PVC frame drill a hole in the window. As a result, depressurization of the glass unit chamber is possible.

As a result of the fact that during drilling, the reinforcement of the system may be disrupted, problems are observed in the future when the window system freezes. As a result, excessive moisture formation occurs inside the room and mold appears on the surface of the slopes.

When fixing a PVC window with bolts, depressurization of the double-glazed window may occur.

If you lack experience and do not know the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may happen that it will stretch if installed incorrectly. It will be almost impossible to correct the geometry of the window frame.

There are still positive qualities to attaching plastic windows to anchor bolts:

• reliability of fastening of the structure - in order to dismantle it, it will be necessary to carry out the reverse order of work that was done during installation;
• After fixing the window system there is no need to additional work how it happens with fixation with polyurethane foam: time for hardening, leveling, cutting, finishing;
• the structure can begin to be fully exploited immediately after it is installed;
• This connection method is reliable and durable, and fastening materials in the form of bolts are widely available and have an affordable price.

Features of fastening to anchor plates

This method of attaching a window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.

Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only disadvantage is that some fastening elements (plates) will remain visible after installation. However, they can also be cleverly camouflaged by hiding them under slopes during their finishing.

Inserting a plastic window using plates is easier and safer than fixing it with bolts

There is another recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash that will be used very often, then the window may fail. This type of fastening is recommended for moderate opening or for fixed windows.

An alternative method of fastening is considered: the upper part of the structure is mounted on plates, and the lower part is fixed with anchor bolts.

Rules for attaching windows to plates

Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. Glue or foam are not suitable. The use of a percussion mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.

To avoid damaging the window frame with the drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by installing a piece of PVC near the hole to be drilled.

Self-tapping screws are used as fastening elements

When installing a window in brick opening having vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock seams. To control the immersion of the self-tapping screw into the body of the frame, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with an appropriate function that limits the torque.

The process of attaching a window to plates

The first step is to fasten the anchor plates in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements relative to the corners of the frame should be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm.

The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm

It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate fasteners. To do this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.

On the surface of the wall, use a pencil or chalk to mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is removed and in place of the marks, using a chisel, a recess is made into which the plate should fit and be tightly fixed. This will allow you to subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.

At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is leveled using wooden blocks prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and their installation occurs only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled using a level.

Vertical alignment is done by level

When the position of the frame is leveled, you can begin to secure the plates using 6*40 dowels on a concrete base or with self-tapping screws in other cases.

Gaps are sealed using polyurethane foam

To avoid frame distortion, the plates are secured in order. First, fix the lower left corner, then the right, monitoring using a level. The top plates are secured last. At the final stage, the seams are sealed using polyurethane foam.

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of “elite” element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems are no longer so expensive and have become widely used used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones in terms of insulation, sound insulation, and By by matching all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just in appearance, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during renovations, the issue is almost always clearly resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, currently engaged in their assembly in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large production volumes they can afford it. But you can often find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and in today’s times this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by doing the installation yourself?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to have a good understanding of the process technology and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, be extremely careful when installing and strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already stood the test of time, and it would be inappropriate to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are taken and an order is placed for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next stage is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary depending on the chosen method of window installation, which will be discussed below.
• The most important stage is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally, leaving the required gaps, and fastening it to the walls.
• Next, the seams between the frame and the opening are sealed, and water and vapor barriers are provided.
• The next step is to install the ebb sill outside and the window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms and installation of the necessary fittings are carried out.
• When finishing is done in the room, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main methods of fastening plastic windows

Before you start working on your own, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, someone who does not accurately understand its structure should not undertake window installation. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Opening window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, it can be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame using special fittings that allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost that divides the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material used is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly in the frame profile (with a “blind” part of the window) glass unit It can be single-chamber (two glasses) or double-chamber (3 glasses).

5 – Fitting elements. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 – PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if positions coincide with the top picture, their numbers are saved):

— The frame profile (item 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (item 7). This item etc I guess T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

— The structure of the sash profile (item 2) is approximately the same. The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (item 8)

— The glass unit in the frame or in the window sash is held in place by glazing beads (item 9).

— The diagram additionally shows the device window slope from PVC panel. Pos. 10 – starting profile, pos. 11 – PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the cross-sectional shape of the profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window will differ, but still typical diagram remains the same.

More details about this, and how to correctly approach the choice of its optimal model, are described in a special publication on our portal.

• Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame using dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) pre-attached to the window.

A. In the first case (in the figure on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastening element is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is installed much more accurately.
• The fastening strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible for large window sizes (2000 mm or more on any side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Flaws:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For an inexperienced master This - unnecessary problem , since when dismantling the beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. Due to the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
• Violating the integrity of the profile (drilling through it) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and in certain conditions can provoke.
• This type of installation takes more time.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets mounted on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (shown schematically in the top figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if standard anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end part of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not compromised - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - it can be installed assembled. (Because of this, this method is sometimes called “no decompression”). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons. Firstly, most often windows are delivered from the manufacturer in disassembled form. Secondly, installing an assembled window with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, is very difficult and dangerous due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, ensuring external waterproofing and it is still more convenient to install the ebb tide with the double-glazed windows completely removed.

Flaw, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - in terms of installation strength, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

It is immediately appropriate to make one very important remark. Apartment owners, one way or another, will have to contact a company that manufactures windows to place an order. The optimal situation would be for a manufacturer’s representative to come and independently carry out all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the likelihood of an error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to understand the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window, for some reason, suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the company’s employees, and the customer will have the right to demand the production of the correct window design.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, measuring the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If you decide to take the measurements yourself, you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• IN panel high-rise buildings most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way external slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• IN brick houses usually there is no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the picture on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measuring a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and on top the window frame should be quartered by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and there should still be a gap left for filling it with polyurethane foam.

This means that the measurement is carried out as follows:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should overlap them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, add 30 ÷ 50 mm to the resulting distance. This way the required window width is obtained in advance.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with size IN, which shows the distance between the slopes near the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side there should be at least 20 mm left for sealing with polyurethane foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, since there is a certain range of window opening to a quarter.

• Now about the window height. The entry of the frame into the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, does not happen in openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. To install them, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers install it during the order process, but it never hurts to check it.

Important element structures - substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the top quarter to the point where the inclined ebb (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

15 ÷ 25 mm is added to this value - this is the frame extending to the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. There should also be a gap under it for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required window height.

For control, measurements are taken inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense to remove the window sill altogether, since it will soon change anyway). The resulting height of the opening will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm at the top and 5 ÷ 20 mm at the bottom for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if you do not plan to install a substitution profile (which in itself is a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order the window sill, ebb and flow and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width – the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• Window sill length - maximum opening width ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and the internal wall, plus the desired distance for the window sill to protrude outwards (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a straight opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a straight opening is much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - A).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two values ​​of the installation gap WITH. As before, we take it as 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the installation gap at the top (20 mm) and the thickness of the installation profile (30 mm) and the 10 mm gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the installation gap from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a quarter window.

If the measurements have been completed, you can proceed to place your order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it is better to call a surveyor to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight misalignment of the opening that has arisen due to shrinkage of the building.

Preparing tools and consumables

While the window is being manufactured, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare tools and consumables for installation.

Tools and materials you will need:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a hammer chisel		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Construction level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer, for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood hacksaw
	Anchor plates - if the “without unpacking” or combined fastening method is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm – for anchor plates or Ø10 mm – when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL)		Thermal and vapor barrier tape PPE, preferably foil
	Vapor permeable diffuse tape		Polyurethane foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should be enough.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table requires some explanation:

I.First of all, let’s figure out the number of fastening points. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of fastening points. Three of the most common option - window with impost, completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, three basic quantities appear, A, IN And WITH.

A– the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fastening points. Be sure to place two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. Value A is taken to be from 150 to 180 mm.

IN– the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

— for “white” PVC windows – no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made from colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH– the distance from the impost to the fastening point towards the larger sash area (if two wide sash are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme before your eyes and knowing linear dimensions ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to immediately sketch out a diagram of the placement of fastening points - this will be a good help when carrying out the work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? This depends on the wall material and on the method of fastening the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are used. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or walls made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferable on walls made of materials that do not differ high degree compressive strength, for example from lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They are also suitable for hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case where installation on anchor plates will be used, two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and it is better to purchase them from the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must exactly fit the PVC profile. To attach the plate, you will also need self-tapping screws with a 4 × 25 mm drilling point - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fastening elements must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For different wall materials it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4×16 screws may be needed to attach the flashing and auxiliary elements for installing a window sill. They are also needed if you plan to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it will be enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And it will be attached from below when installing the external ebb. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely insulate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when doorway with a quarter, and it is advisable to glue it along the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Polyurethane foam: best option– purchase cylinders with “pro” foam, the use of which will require a special gun. It does not give “inadequate” expansion, like the cheap ones sold in spray bottles, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame struts. In addition, it is of much higher quality, more durable, and applying it to the right places is much easier, without unnecessary waste.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. If installed correctly, gaps, if any, will be very insignificant, that is large quantity no sealant required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase film with which he will cover pieces of furniture, walls, and floors in the room where the window will be installed - the work will be quite dusty at first.

Removing the old window

After the window is manufactured and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and labor-intensive, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	The largest sashes are removed first. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. Eat important nuance- sashes or doors along with glass can only be removed if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window “plays” or is very rotten, then for reasons of basic safety the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended to immediately remove all dismantled parts from the work area - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and causing injury.
	If the side of the window has a window, then remove it first. If you were unable to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often this happens), you will have to apply force - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually suspended on hinges from which they can be removed simply by lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents have been removed - you can proceed to dismantling the frame.
	First, the central post - the impost - is removed. To make this easier, the import is sawed down closer to the bottom of the frame. You need to saw with a hacksaw - in some videos, craftsmen flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. Under no circumstances should you repeat after them - this is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower frame jumper is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to saw it through using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place where it is attached to the vertical stand, then you can help yourself there with a pry bar
	After this, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower lintel, dismantle the window sill. It can be knocked down with a hammer from the street side.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Move to a vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged at the top and bottom. Then it is better to move it a little away from the wall and also saw it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side no longer rests on anything, and should come off without any problems.
	Last vertical stand The frame should also not resist if it is carefully pryed with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the frame posts and the wall, you have to use a hammer drill to chop off the plastered slopes.
	The last stage is to clean the vacated window opening from old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All waste is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to adjusting the opening - removing defects in the concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a hammer drill, installing a chisel-spatula on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 mm high, right at the place where the window sill will be installed.

After removing the dust, you should not be lazy and go over the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the polyurethane foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If you plan to install a window “with unpacking,” then it is advisable to stipulate even when placing the order that it be delivered disassembled (and this most often happens). If not, you will have to disassemble it yourself.

• First, the glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pryed off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appears, it is expanded by carefully moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the locking part. Then all that remains is to place your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead so that there is no confusion when reinstalling it. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - a pencil mark from a PVC surface is very difficult to wipe off.

• Retrieved. The most convenient way to do this is with a special suction cup, but if you don’t have one, you can do it this way. Be careful - the glass unit is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the glass unit. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that they will fit in the same place during installation.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove double glazing from a PVC window

• There is no need to remove the glass unit from the opening sash - just remove the sash itself. This is not difficult to do. To begin with, the sash handle is moved to the “closed” position - it looks down. The decorative casing is removed from both hinges, top and bottom - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After this, the sash handle is moved to the “open” position. The door tilts up onto itself and is then removed with a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from working area to avoid accidental damage during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

• The next step in preparation is drilling holes to mount the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up diagram for placing the fastening points, the centers of the holes are marked and lightly marked. A metal drill Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing through the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests on the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, one insignificant obstacle remains in the form of the internal PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and even edges.

• The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below with a regular locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not there, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise filling the cavities of this profile with polyurethane foam in advance, about a day before installing the window, so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• Removed from the outside of the frame protective covering. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun even a little. And in general, it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. WITH inside This coating can be removed later.

If there will be a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are installed on 2 × 16 mm self-tapping screws, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with pressing the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and to ensure reliable fixation of the mesh, as well as installation and removal of it by moving it upward until it stops in the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Typically, the PSUL is placed in such a way that there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter.

B. If the window is to be installed on anchor plates, the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

— Firstly, you don’t have to unglaze the blind sash - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned; installation will be somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

— Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended fastening points. They have serrated or smooth hooks that should fit perfectly into the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to apply moderate force, for example, by knocking it with a mounting hammer, and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate into the profile groove...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - it, passing through the reinforcing metal profile, will reliably hold the plate in the installed place. The plates are attached perpendicular to the frame, and then bent so that they fit into the window when installed. doorway.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, you can make recesses in advance with a hammer drill. The goal is to reach the wall material, knocking off the unreliable plaster layer (if there is one), and make it easier for yourself to further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be covered with finishing.

The remaining preparation steps do not differ from those about co which were mentioned above.

Installation and fastening of windows in doorway

Very carefully, taking all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against the frame tipping outward, it is placed in the window opening. If the opening has quarters, then the frame should fit tightly to them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately align the frame in the vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. Can I give one good advice– temporarily fix the window approximately in the center from above onto the anchor plate – the degree of freedom will be preserved, and the work will be much easier.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower frame jumper - that’s why a tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical collapse of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct positioning of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are certainly preferable, and if it is possible to purchase them, then it will be ideal option. They “work in pairs”, engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to the other, you can set the desired height with an accuracy of up to a millimeter.

You can, of course, get by with wooden wedges or pads, but this often requires cutting them, replacing them, installing several pieces in a “pyramid” pattern, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can proceed to fastening it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% confident in the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the steadiness of his hand. It happens that the hammer drill encounters an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not stopped, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole directly through the frame is quite dangerous.

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a hammer drill, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case you will have to put the window back in its previous position and wedge it, but with the drilled holes this will not be difficult to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared socket...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, hammered with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without “fanatical” force so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel-nails are used, the plastic part is inserted first, and then the spacer nail is carefully driven in.

...followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant to be sure.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even simpler. They are finally given the required bend so that they fit tightly to the surface of the window opening. Directly through their holes, holes are drilled in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the “without unpacking” method

The standards specify two fasteners per plate, although, judging by numerous photographs on the Internet, many craftsmen limit themselves to one. Probably, with two, it’s more reliable, and they’re not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow installing two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and ebb.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided for the sake of economy ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive “household” polyurethane foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such foam has a very significant expansion force, which can even lead to slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window must be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling the openings with high-quality “professional” foam will not entail such consequences. Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. Under no circumstances should there be any internal cavities left - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which allows you to economically control its consumption. Particular attention should be paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is disassembled, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, making certain adjustments if necessary. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting is an excellent insulation material, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive humidity. This should be done immediately after it has completely hardened (in about a day) and the excess is cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device external slopes, which should completely hide the frozen layer of foam from direct contact ultraviolet rays. Solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or covering with panels.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free release of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of destructive effects when freezing and expanding.

And on the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro- and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow direct penetration of water into the insulation layer from the inside, nor penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of window sill and ebb

A. Window sill installation can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or foam, on special brackets or same using homemade fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the design of the frame itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically to mate with the plane of the window sill. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedging it from below to fit tightly to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram is provided. correct installation window sill and low tide. Pay attention to the location film membranes.

Let's consider the option of installing a window sill on polyurethane foam, as one of the most common.

• Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight recess into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a fine-tooth hacksaw.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, ensure that the panel inserted into its designated slot on the frame or mounting profile is in an exactly horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when filling the space under it with foam, it does not move from its established position. The load can be given by placing, for example, containers of water on the windowsill evenly along the entire length.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with polyurethane foam. She will and thermal insulator, and will act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If there is a small gap left between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next step is to install the tide outside. Approximate diagram shown in the figure.

The low tide mounting area is already covered vapor permeable membrane that completely covered the polyurethane foam. It is recommended to glue a PSUL strip along the plane of the opening - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, in increments of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted on an overlay, and then it makes sense to coat its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge fits into a special groove in the mounting profile from below - then you won’t have to worry about rainwater getting under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by hollowing out grooves for this. Then it will be easy to seal them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, you need to bring the window into fully working state.

• The double-glazed windows are inserted into place using the plastic pads that were originally there. According to the numbering, the glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
• If there is a need, an accurate one is made (how to do this is in a special article on the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, the hinges are covered with decorative covers.

Essentially, the window installation is complete. Only the issue of installation remained unsolved - but this is a topic for separate consideration, which is also given attention on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed Video instruction for installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows