How to install a blind plastic window. How to properly install a plastic window with your own hands

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day. To perform this work you will not need any special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with optimal thermal characteristics with four-chamber window profile and double-glazed windows, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window. We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also, the bubble level was not included in the frame. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And very serious mistake, which is accepted by the majority - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All the details are here -

Installing a plastic window with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Of course, without special preparation the result is unlikely to be ideal. But if you have the minimum skills, get down to business with confidence.

The idea for this master class came completely unexpectedly. It all started with the fact that I was offered to “shelter” a plastic window. The previous owners had minimal complaints about it: “it blows a little and the sash hurts,” but they decided that “rather than fixing the old one, it’s better to buy a new one.” And so they did. For them, the “old” window turned out to be unnecessary, but for me... as they say, in the “kulak” economy everything will do.

Windows, which are commonly called plastic, from the point of view of re-installation, have one unpleasant feature: it will not be possible to fit them to the window opening at home. You have to adjust the opening to fit the window, and this is not always possible. However, I was lucky here: the dimensions of the frame “fit” into the dimensions of my country house. But here it is necessary to make some digression.

Almost all houses can be divided into three types: for simplicity, let’s call them “stone”, “logged” and “plank”. Punch new openings in “stone” ones, that is, made of cement blocks, bricks, monolithic concrete and similar materials is difficult and labor-intensive. “Chopped” ones, made from logs or timber, are more convenient in this regard: in most cases, widening the opening is possible, it will not affect the strength.

My house is of the third type, “plank”, or rather frame-fill. This typical option, which was widely used on summer cottages until about the mid-90s. (By the way, during the USSR there was a clear limitation on the size of buildings: on dacha plots capital houses building was not allowed - only light “summer” buildings. Of course, not everyone followed this rule, but that’s a different conversation). The frame is made of hewn logs and beams, the walls on both sides are sheathed with ordinary roofing felt and boards. The backfill is sawdust, impregnated copper sulfate. Of course, this is “outdated” technology. But, firstly, the dacha appeared in my family about 60 years ago, and, secondly, the house was built in the early 90s.

To complete the picture, I’ll add one more touch - I built this house myself, with my own hands. First as an assistant, and then independently, alone. The interior decoration was entirely mine. There were few tools: a woodworking machine, a saw, an ax and a blowtorch. For interior decoration used unedged boards: I cut them on a machine, jointed them, then fired the jointed side blowtorch, after which I selected the quarters on the machine, chamfered them, and then adjusted each board in place. This is how I had fun when I was 16-17 years old.

The window that stood earlier (photos 1, 2), by the way, was not new - in those days they treated everything with care, they even tried to use things that had served their purpose again.

A few years after the house was completed, I updated the windows - instead of single glazing, I made double glazing. Although the house has a stove (of those called gas generators), it is used only as a summer stove. Insulating it is quite possible and not even very difficult.

Many of my neighbors do this: they replace the windows with plastic ones, insulate the walls with mineral wool, cover them with siding - and get buildings in which they can spend weekends in the winter. But I have it for winter races brick kitchen, it is smaller in size and with capital brick oven. So I decided to install a new window more for fun.

Required Tools

The task of installing a new window in my case consists of three stages. First you need to widen the opening in the wall, that is, tear off and cut out everything that is not needed. Then carry out the rough work - make a “frame for the frame” (it’s called a frame or casing) and fix the plastic frame in it. The last step is finishing work: window sill, slopes, trim.

I will list the main tools used (photo 3).

A circular saw. It is needed at all stages - from cutting the opening to the final finishing. The accuracy of the “circular” is sufficient for most types of work.
Chain Saw. An electric one is sufficient here. The tool is not very precise, but it is capable of making a “blind” cut to a great depth. The main thing is that there are no nails on the cutting line - they cause the chain to “sit down” instantly.
Reciprocating saw. Like the chain, the saber is useful when carrying out dismantling work, especially when cutting materials with nails. Also used for “finishing” in difficult places behind the circular saw. I use it quite rarely, but every time I understand that without it it would be more difficult.
Electric planer. It is mainly needed at the final stage - for precise adjustment of the width and thickness of materials.
Fraser. It was useful for processing the edge of the window sill and the joints of the platbands.
Hammer And nail puller.

Other tools were also occasionally used: a drill (it also worked as a screwdriver), a jigsaw, and even a compressor with pneumatic tools.

Preparing to install a window

There is no point in describing the dismantling work step by step. The strength frame of the house is made up of vertical racks, located two meters apart, they bear the main load. An additional one was installed between the “power” racks, which needed to be cut out. This will have virtually no effect on strength. The inner boards were carefully removed, the outer ones were cut without removal from the house and removed along with the sawn part of the stand.

Then came the turn of the second stage: the boards were selected and installed, which became the “frame for the frame.” There is no need to process these boards - they will all be “covered” by others. Photo 4 – lower right (when viewed from the inside) corner. The bottom board is a support for the window sill; its width corresponds to the thickness of the wall with sheathing. A stand rail is laid on it (a similar element can be used when installing ordinary plastic windows; it is called a stand profile). The width of the slats is “thick” plastic frame", the height is selected so that in the future the window sill will cover both it and the gap between it and the frame. Wide and thin plastic window sill I had it included, it didn’t require a stand rail, but I decided that it would look nicer narrow window sill made of wood, but thicker.

Important!

It is highly advisable to place the bottom board strictly horizontally, level. The remaining casing boards can be set during the “trying on” process.

As can be seen in the same photograph, the distance between the window and the inner wall of the house is a matter of centimeters. If it had been larger, I would have made this frame stand also “the thickness of the wall” (like all the others), but here it turned out to be more expedient to make it “the width of the frame.”

Photo 5 – “trying on”. The casing boards are installed flush with the outer skin. With this installation, there is no need to make slopes. A drip drain to drain rainwater is also not needed: the one that covers the skirt (vertical cladding boards) copes with the task quite well. If the house were covered with siding, both slopes and flashing would be needed.

About "nuances"

For houses made from logs or beams, shrinkage must be taken into account when installing the frame. It’s invisible to the eye, but if you just nail it vertical board to the log house, the next year gaps will form between the logs. To prevent this from happening, they make a sliding connection without fastening with nails - a tenon on the logs and a groove in the posts of the post (or vice versa). The height of the entire window opening also decreases during shrinkage, and the top board begins to put pressure on the frame, which can lead to its deformation - up to the impossibility of opening the windows or even cracking the glass.

They deal with this differently: between the top board and the log they leave a completely free space of several centimeters high. It will shrink after shrinking. In this case, the frame boards have a very complex shape and are connected to each other on tenons - ideally, there is no need to nail any additional boards to them: put it in the log house, install the window - and you can cover it with platbands.

In a good way, anyone log house it takes at least two years to build: the first one is built with a frame, the second one is finished, including the windows. And even after this, the shrinkage will continue for several more years, and the house will need to be caulked from time to time, closing the gaps between the logs. But this is not always done - today they often build immediately “turnkey” from material of unknown moisture content, and the builders do not care what happens in years to come. Moreover, you still need to see the cracks, but if they are closed finishing materials and insulation, this will not be possible. Just feel it - heat loss in such a house will increase noticeably.

For “stone” buildings, the problem of shrinkage does not exist. In fact, they usually don’t even need a pigtail at all (although options are possible).

The second “nuance” concerns the size of the resulting window opening. It should be slightly wider and higher than the window frame. When ordering a window “into the opening”, this is taken into account during manufacturing. Since, on the contrary, I had to adjust the opening under the window, I made the gaps minimal - within 10 mm on each of the four sides. This was enough to insert the tip of a foam balloon into the resulting gap. A larger gap is also acceptable.

Installation of a plastic window frame

Everything is quite simple here. Usually the frame is secured from the sides with anchors - two on each side is enough. Or even screws, if there is casing. A couple of small shims are placed on the stand rail to provide clearance between it and the frame. Then they drill holes, install fasteners, check the side gaps and foam them. The window is fixed not only on the fasteners - the foam provides such a strong connection that the fasteners, by and large, are needed only for fixation while it dries.

Now - in more detail. The holes in the frame were already drilled (if they weren't there, I would have simply secured the frame with screws). The remains of the anchors were also included, but they were disposable and could not be restored. I had to go to the store for new anchors and polyurethane foam. Moreover, I took only two anchors - “for fun” I decided to experiment and make two more fastening elements myself.

Photo 6 shows standard anchor screws. The issue price is 8 rubles per piece. The same, but “in a blister” - 25-30 rubles per pair. A container of the first available foam costs 160 rubles; branded brands of the same volume can now cost between 300-400 rubles. I don’t exclude, however, that they “give more foam.”

Photo 7 shows the procedure for making a pseudo-anchor.

In my household I found a stainless steel tube with a diameter of just 10 mm. Having clamped two pieces of board in a vice and drilled a hole in diameter at their joint, equal to the diameter bushings, I got a "pipe clamp". I put a tube in it, cut off the required length, cut the tube lengthwise and spread the “antennae” a little with a screwdriver (photo 8).

The length of the tube is such that it extends several centimeters into the rack. The depth of the hole in the rack was selected so that the tube was recessed almost flush with the frame. It will sink a little more after tightening the screw.

On a note!

When screwing in the anchors, you also need to be careful that they do not “shift” the frame to the right or left.

You can use temporary pads that are placed in the gap between the post and the frame. By the way, it is better to tighten the screws in the anchors with a hand screwdriver; this provides more precise control (photo 9).

I can also note that I liked working with homemade anchors more than with factory ones.

Foaming the gap between the window opening and the plastic window frame

It can be done later - after installing the glazing. The process is simple, but, as usual, not without “nuances”. For a window with a perimeter of approximately 7 m, one cylinder with a volume of about 400 ml is more than enough.

On a note!

Foam that accidentally gets on clothes cannot be washed off with almost anything; if it gets on the skin, it will “go away” for several days. If foam falls on any surface, do not try to remove it until it dries completely.

First, the gap between the frame and the jamb must be moistened generously. For this purpose, a “sprinkler” is suitable, in which they offer different means household chemicals. I used a more productive tool - a “moving” gun attached to a compressor (photo 10). In general, such a “bundle” is also suitable for the garden - it successfully replaces a garden sprayer.

Before use, the container can be slightly warmed up in a water bath (no more than 30-40°C), so the foam yield will increase. When working, hold it with the tip down (photo 11). The balloon must be moved at such a speed that the foam fills approximately a third of the gap volume. When dry, it will expand and cover it completely. I removed the pads under the frame after “passing” the perimeter, and I also foamed the gaps from them.

You need to take a break from working until the foam dries completely. Before this, under no circumstances should you close the gap with any materials - if the foam has nowhere to expand, it is quite capable of even bending the frame. Excess dried foam is cut off with a knife. The foam can be painted. And it is even necessary if it is exposed to direct sunlight.

Window trim

For the interior I used the same boards that were previously removed. There were plenty of them to spare. You can see how the finishing looks from the inside in the photo at the beginning of the article. There is only one new board here - the window sill. I didn’t “darken” it - in a few years it will darken on its own. Another new one is a few wooden corners (instead of platbands) and a rail under the window sill. They were found in stock - they had been lying around for a long time and were just the right color.

Here I will draw attention to two points. The first is the design of the right side of the window. It seems that either the window is uneven or the wall is “crooked”. The second option is correct: even when installing the frame, this corner post was installed with a slight slope (carpenter's mistake). It was not possible to completely disguise this, so I went a different route - I “pushed out” the slope. How this is done is clear if you look closely at the lower right corner: the joining of the two boards is not made at a right angle (photo 12).

The one that is adjacent to the window is slightly “turned” (its thickness was changed using a plane, plus linings were laid), the one that is near the wall is attached more or less evenly. At the top, on the contrary, the board next to the wall is “turned inside out.” In addition, it is a centimeter narrower on top than on the bottom. Both of these boards were made from the same board, so the pattern is the same: the line of their joining is almost invisible. In total, all this gives a feeling of “something incomprehensible.” The idea is not new - something similar was used, for example, during the construction of the Prague “dancing house”.

The second trick relates to the installation of external trim. Practice shows that even a simple joining of their boards at an angle of 45 degrees is difficult - if you make a slight mistake, a gap appears. To minimize it, you can do this: attach the top board to the wall, lay the side board on top of it and mark it (photo 13).

Then remove the side one, cut it, fasten it again - and mark the one under it. Or take a hacksaw and make a cut without removing the boards. Circular saw with a set cutting depth of “one and a half boards” this is even easier, but such work requires qualifications and availability scaffolding– according to safety regulations, it is forbidden to operate it while standing on a ladder. The easiest way to attach external trim is with screws - it’s convenient to adjust and remove later, for example for painting.

Installing glass in a plastic window

Installing turn-and-turn and tilt-and-turn windows assembled with double-glazed windows on hinges is not a difficult problem; the design may be different, but everything is easily understood in place. There are subtleties when installing the double-glazed windows themselves. You should know that they are placed not just in a frame, but on small plastic gaskets: at least two below and one on each side (photo 14).

The glazing beads that press the glass unit are adjusted very precisely at the factory. When removing them, it is advisable to mark each bead and not confuse them. If this has not been done, you can try to take a closer look at the marks on the glazing bead and window frame - small scratches that occurred during use or during removal will always be found.

To make it easier to install the bead protrusion into the frame groove, you can lightly lubricate it with any colorless lubricant - silicone, WD‑40 or even soap. Installation is carried out “from the edges”: long glazing beads are first inserted from the corners, then clamped “towards the center” (photo 15).

Protecting a plastic window from burglary

There are crooks in our dachas Lately“work” infrequently. But making it more difficult for dacha thieves to break into a house is quite logical. To protect windows I use wooden boards on bolts. A new shield had to be made for the new window. Even three (photo 16).

The work is simple - wooden blocks with boards stuffed on them. Moreover, these are boards that were left after installing the window. On the left are those that were on the wall from the inside, on the right is the former external cladding, the boards in the middle are a shield that covered the old window. They are fixed at the top with latches, at the bottom, so as not to make holes in the window sill, the design is slightly more complicated: a wooden block is used, reinforced with an aluminum profile, the latches fit into the holes in the side slopes. It is quite difficult to break such a shield while outside. Protection, of course, is not absolute, but sufficient.

Adjusting the plastic window

It may be needed both after installation and during subsequent operation. U different manufacturers fittings meet different variants execution of the adjusting elements, but it’s enough to know where to look for them. Most likely, you will need a hex wrench for adjustment; screws “for Phillips screwdriver" To make the search easier, you need to mentally imagine the frame and window in the form of “rigid” rectangles. If the window slightly touches the fittings when closing, you need to install the window inside the frame with uniform gaps around the entire perimeter.

Then everything is in the mind. Where can the designer make a “point”, when adjusted, the window moves up and down? Only on the lower loop, on the axis, and from the top of the loop. This is the most convenient place: access to the lower part of the lower hinge and the upper part of the upper hinge is limited by the window sill and slopes; in the lower part of the upper hinge, a second such point is not needed (and if the window is a tilt-and-turn window, then it cannot be placed there).

Where to look for points to move the window in the frame left and right? Obviously, this is also in the area of ​​the hinges, both of them, but the adjusting screws must be located parallel to the glass. Photo 17 - bottom hinge, photo 18 - removed tilt-and-turn mechanism bracket, hex bit points to the adjusting screw.

Adjustment with screws is sufficient for most cases. If it’s not enough, you can adjust the position of the frame using a double-glazed window. Most often, this has to be done if the sash has sagged too much - the angles of connection of its profiles have become different from straight lines or the hinges have become very worn. In this case, the sash touches bottom part frame even when fully raised using the adjusting screw.

The glass unit gives rigidity to the frame. Before adjustment, it is removed, and by rotating the screw on the bottom hinge, the sash is lowered as far as possible. Further down, in the area of ​​the “touching corner”, a gasket several millimeters thick is placed on the frame. The second gasket is placed “diagonally” - on the sash in the area of ​​the top hinge. After this, the window is closed. As a result, the frame is clamped between the gaskets and slightly deformed - it warps upward. To consolidate the effect, without opening the window, put the glass unit back and clamp it with glazing beads. The window is then opened, the gaskets are removed and the final adjustment is made with screws.

It is also often necessary to adjust the pressure of the window to the frame. If it is not pressed enough, a gap will form into which it will blow even with a working seal. A strong clamp is also not needed - this will not make the connection more airtight, only the fittings and seal will wear out faster. You can check the clamping force using a piece of newspaper between the sash and the seal - it should be pulled out with noticeable force. The adjustment points are located at the joints of the fittings on the sashes and frame. Their number depends on the size of the window. Most often, the adjusting screw is located on the trunnion - a round “post” on the sash. In my case, there was another option - the eccentric screw was on plates attached to the frame (photo 19).

Also, clamping eccentrics can be on the swing-out mechanism bracket (photo 20) and, sometimes, on the lower hinge.

In general, after working with the tools for several minutes, I ensured that the window began to close and open normally, and the air stopped blowing from it. As part of further maintenance, you should periodically lubricate all rubbing parts and “refresh” the rubber of the seal. For this I recommend silicone lubricant (available at auto parts stores).

The advantage of modern plastic windows over conventional ones is quite obvious. They are strong, durable, and reliably isolate the room from extraneous noise, rain and wind. If you have certain skills and know the installation rules, install plastic windows you can do it without calling a specialist. Follow the recommendations we gave in this material - and you will succeed.

The window was installed by Maxim Griboyedov.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. Particular differences between products different companies No. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what we're talking about in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured rubber seal(it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, attach to the frame from the outside metal plates, and then - to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the load-bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on him until he drowns (you can take metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Rejecting top part slightly toward you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of durum varieties impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then install plastic windows yourself with mounting plates identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

Those who decided to change the old ones wooden windows on plastic ones, you may wonder: is it possible to install them yourself? Although this is a job of average complexity, it can still be done by those who have at least some construction skills. Installation small windows in private houses it is much easier than large windows on the balconies of apartment buildings. In this article we will look at more difficult option installation of windows in multi-storey building.
If you are not an expert in this matter, then it is better to ask a more experienced craftsman to calculate in advance what size plastic windows need to be ordered. So that they are not too big or too small. When the windows are delivered to you, immediately check that all components and fittings are present, and also check that the window dimensions are accurate. Only then sign the windows delivery documents.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

First you need to dismantle the old windows. To do this, you may need a wood saw to cut the beams and window sill. You will also need a pry bar.
If you do not live on the first floor, then when the windows are delivered they will be disassembled to make it easier for the movers to bring them into the apartment. This is good because you also need it. In addition, you will have to additionally disassemble the double-glazed windows by removing the glass, since they provide the main weight. The glass must be dismantled so that it is convenient for you to attach the window sill and ebbs. Dismantling of the drains is carried out by removing the plastic bead.

Before you begin installing windows, you must attach the fasteners for mosquito net, because then it will be difficult, because if you do not live on the first floor from the street, it will be impossible to do this. To do this, place the mosquito net against the window opening and screw the top fastenings, then the lower ones, but in such a way that the net can be removed, for example in winter. Therefore, the lower fastenings should be slightly lower than the size of the mosquito net.

Next, you can mount metal fasteners to the top and side of the window block. This is done using self-tapping screws, which should be included with the fittings.

If the window openings are long, then several window blocks are usually ordered, which are connected to each other with special fasteners (connectors). It is necessary to immediately fasten the windows with a connector on both sides, and additionally fasten them with self-tapping screws.

If you have ordered visors, they must be attached to the top of the window block by screwing them into the profile with self-tapping screws. This is done after you have installed the metal fasteners.

Next, you can start installing the window. If the windows are large, then you will need help from at least one person to help lift and place the window. Also, when you attach the window to the wall, you also need to hold them.
Immediately try to level the window block by placing wooden wedges under the bottom and leveling it horizontally.

Once the window is approximately level, it can be attached to the wall on the side and at the top. To do this you will need a hammer drill and quick installation. After drilling a hole, bend metal fastener, and then hammer in this hole quick installation with a hammer.

After you have secured all the metal fasteners, check the level of the window unit vertically and horizontally again.

If everything is in order, then proceed with the installation of further parts. First, you can fix the window sill; it is attached with self-tapping screws to the lower profile from the street side.

After this, from the street you also need to screw the sills into the lower profile of the window. Keep in mind that canopies, ebbs, and window sills will not always be exactly the size you need. Most often they are slightly longer. Therefore, you will have to cut off the canopies and ebbs with a grinder or metal scissors, and the window sill with a jigsaw or grinder. You will need a tape measure for measuring. required sizes and a square to accurately draw the lines along which you will cut.
At this stage, you can blow out the openings between the windows and slabs with polyurethane foam. To save a little on foam, especially if the gaps are large, you can use polystyrene foam.

Then the opening windows that have been removed are attached to window block. To do this, you immediately need to screw the fittings (handles) to them, then insert the window into special grooves.

In order for the window to open freely in all modes, the window must be configured special key(hexagon). In the grooves on which the window is placed, there are special holes for the hexagon, where you can adjust the window by turning it with a key from above and below. The goal of the setting is to make the window easy to close and come off in all modes.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Installing or replacing windows is an important component of expensive apartment renovations. Those who want to save money own funds They may refuse the services of apartment renovation specialists and try to cope with this task on their own. We will tell you where to start and how to install plastic windows efficiently and quickly in our material.

Installing plastic windows yourself is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first. In order for it not to complicate you and to soon please you with the result, it is worth paying attention to certain nuances. Before you begin installing the structure, you should clear the space in front of the window, set aside the furniture and cover the floor and heating radiators with a cloth. In addition, we prepare the window opening by clearing it of the frame and sashes.

Nuances

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, consider the following nuances. Their design must be securely fixed. This is, firstly. Secondly, in order to avoid foam settling and deformation of the window structure in the future, it is worth plastering the foam both inside and outside. Thirdly, in order to prevent the occurrence of distortions, it is necessary to adjust the verticality and horizontality of the system using a laser or oil level.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows yourself

Detailed video instructions:

To install plastic windows you will need a window structure with fasteners, polyurethane foam, an angle grinder, a level, a mount and a new window sill. Below we offer you brief instructions consistent actions, with which you can correctly and efficiently install PVC windows with your own hands. The instructions are accompanied by photo and video materials, thanks to which the process of installing plastic windows with your own hands will look more clear.

1. First you need to dismantle the old window, frame and window sill using a grinder and a pry bar. First we will make cuts on the window frame, and thanks to the second we will pry it up for removal.

2. Having removed the sashes, we begin to install a new window. When inserting the window frame into the opening, we secure it at the corners with temporary wooden wedges. Using a level, see if the frame is level. If yes, move on to the next stage.

3. With anchor bolts and mounting plates we fix the frame, as in the photo. Then we attach the window structure to the wood using construction screws. It is strictly forbidden to use nails at this stage; they may cause deformation of the structure in the future.

4. The main goal DIY installation of plastic windows involves securing the window structure. Once it is achieved, we proceed to sealing, as in the video lesson at the bottom of the article. It is carried out using polyurethane foam, which should be applied evenly to a surface moistened with water. The foam used is not only a sealant that prevents street dust from entering the apartment space and provides good sound insulation, but also reliable fastening window.

5. You can remove the temporary wooden wedges after the foam has hardened. After which we move on to the so-called cosmetic stage of work.

6. Now we install the window sill, attaching it to the stand profile.

7. If the polyurethane foam used has hardened unevenly, it should be cut or trimmed. We plaster the resulting slopes both inside and outside using a special mixture.

8. After leveling the plaster, the slopes are painted or covered with the necessary elements. After this, it is permissible to remove the doors from the frame and peel off the protective films.

Smart approach to self-installation plastic windows are the key to their reliable and long-term operation. Taking into account the instructions given above, you can install PVC windows without much difficulty, without resorting to the help of a specialist and saving money.