Frame-beam ceiling in a private house. Standard mistakes when building frame houses Do-it-yourself ceiling in a frame house

The interfloor ceiling in a frame house is not only the basis for the floor or ceiling. It combines all vertical structures into a rigid single system. Therefore, the construction of interfloor ceilings is no less important stage construction than, for example, construction.

Work order

After installing the bottom trim boards, the installation of interfloor floors on the first floor begins. Floor beams are made up of several smooth, high-quality boards or LVL beams are used.

Each beam rests on the concrete foundation wall by at least 100 mm. Its end is adjacent to the bottom trim board. The width of the niche for support should be 13 mm greater than the width of the beam. Niches for supporting beams are laid according to the project at the stage.

The floor joists rest on the floor beams. The distance between the lags depends on the platform sheathing material (subfloor). For example, if they are sheathed with plywood, the lag pitch is taken as a multiple of the size of the plywood slabs.

Eat constructive solution, in which the floor joists are adjacent to the end of the floor beam. In this case, they rest on an additional console nailed to the beam (Figure 1). Another option for attaching the joist to the end of the beam is using metal hangers (Figure 2).

For the manufacture of logs, only smooth boards are chosen. The use of small “sabers” is allowed. They are installed with the bend upward.

First, the joist is installed in the center of the span so that there are no shifts in the structure during installation. If the length of the log consists of two boards, the overlap at the junction must be at least 75 mm. The overlap is fixed with nails. The lag is attached to the beam and to the strapping board using nails.

When all the logs are installed and secured, check the accuracy of the installation, the horizontalness of the surface so that there are no problems at the stage, and nail the outer perimeter board.

To strengthen the floor structure with composite joists, blocks are placed between them. They are made from scraps of boards, metal rods or wooden strips fastened crosswise. Wood planks must be filed under the right angle. Usually several types of blocks are made at once.

Then they begin laying the subfloor from plywood or OSB boards with a thickness of 15-21 mm. When using OSB boards with a special tongue-and-groove edge, it is not necessary to install blocks between the joists. Plywood without a special edge is nailed to joists and blocks. The plywood slabs are placed in a checkerboard pattern, with the long side across the floor joist.

Glue is carefully applied to the side surface of the log. The slab is laid, being careful not to smear the glue on the joist. A gap of 2-3 mm is left between the plates so that it can expand freely as the humidity and air temperature in the room increases. The slabs are secured to the joists with wood screws or rough nails.

If the installation of the wall frame is postponed for some time, the subfloor slabs are protected from precipitation - either the plywood is treated with a special water-repellent compound, or the platform is covered with plastic film so that the water flows to the ground.

Ceiling above the first floor

In a frame house, the ceiling above the first floor, in addition to its main function - to be part of the floor and ceiling - becomes an important stabilizing element. If the first floor has already been completed, then after installing the interfloor ceiling, you can remove the temporary jibs supporting the walls.

There is not much difference between the floor structures of different floors (1st and 2nd). They consist of the same structural elements. But in the interfloor ceiling frame house LVL beams are more often used. After all, they can cover a large-span space without intermediate internal walls.

LVL beam consists of layers of veneer coniferous species, glued formaldehyde glue. It happens that from several standard beams, fastened with wood grouse, a beam is assembled that can withstand heavy loads. But even such a prefabricated beam can be installed by two or three people.

Beams rest on external and internal load-bearing walls and secured with temporary jibs and nails. After installation of LVL beams, floor joists are installed from edged boards. They are attached with nails to the outer perimeter board and to the top trim of the load-bearing walls.

The depth of support on a load-bearing wooden wall is at least 38 mm. The overlap between the joists, when resting on the internal wall, must be at least 75 mm.

The logs are placed above the frame racks of the internal walls. When attaching joists to the end of LVL beams, steel hangers are used (Figure 2).

If the house does not have a second floor or attic, then the ceiling of the 1st floor becomes part of the ceiling. Then the roof rafters are nailed to the ceiling joists. The frame is ready for roof construction.

Greetings to all readers of the blog, Sergey Menkov is in touch with you.

In this article I will continue to describe the construction of my house, and now I will tell you how I made the floors for my house.

I have three floors, this is the lower floor - the floor of the first floor, the interfloor floor, and the attic floor in the attic.

Brief plan articles:

  1. Types of floors
  2. Floors of frame buildings
  3. Floor covering
  4. Ceiling lining
  5. Insulation
  6. Soundproofing
  7. Construction order

The ceiling in a frame house must have certain properties. The most important thing is to have sufficient deflection strength of the beams. I will tell you later how to calculate the size and pitch of beams depending on the width of the overlapped span, but for now let’s go through a little theory.

Types of floors

For private housing construction they are used different kinds floors, the most common are wooden beam floor, and with the help concrete slabs ceilings

Without beam monolithic ceiling in case of independent house construction it is used less often, since it is more labor-intensive in execution, with a large amount of preparatory work.

I will not consider them all in this article, but will talk about how frame floors are arranged; my house is frame

Floors of frame buildings

Frame floor beams must have a number of properties; I will list the main ones that you should rely on when designing a frame house:

  1. Safety margin for deflection - so as not to get a trampoline instead of a floor, and it won’t simply fall into the underground.
  2. Resistance to biological effects is touches the bottom floor, it is close to the ground, and if rotting happens, the weak wood will quickly collapse.
  3. Thermal insulation properties - this determines how warm the house will be. This is especially true for the upper ceiling, it is through it that the a large number of warmth from home.
  4. Sound insulation is a property characteristic of interfloor slabs. Complete sound insulation is very difficult to achieve. I neglected this, and will limit myself to only partial, with laying soundproofing slabs, or backfilling with some kind of bulk material.
  5. Ease of construction is also very important; as a rule, frame houses are erected by one or two people during self-construction, so the technology should be feasible. Below I’ll tell you how I made the floors for my house, all by hand, no cranes, lifts or other devices.

In order to start calculations, you will need to stock up on data on the interaxial distance between the walls on which the beams will rest.

The material for the beams was larch, which is very durable wood, resistant to various influences, we have a large quantity of it in stock, and the cost is cheaper than pine.

Of course, there are also disadvantages, such as the tendency to torsion and the heavy weight of the boards. But they are easily leveled out by those described above positive qualities.

Floor covering

The frame floor beams are covered with decking. They use different types of subfloors, I used a magpie board and 10 mm plywood on top of it, and in the kitchen 18 mm plywood, it so happened that I miscalculated the quantity of tens and ordered a little less than necessary.

A quarter of the house was left unprotected by plywood. And then a friend of mine offered me 18 plywood right into my hand for half the price (it came out at the price of tens). I quickly bought ten sheets from him, the problem disappeared by itself, and I will cover the most popular rooms in the house with thicker plywood, this will only improve the quality of the floor.

If the pitch of the beams is small, then you can use plywood or OSB sheets, this is a common practice, I didn’t do this, so I can’t talk about it in detail. If anyone wants to do this, then google it, everything will be found)

Ceiling lining

My ceiling has not been hemmed yet, for the first time I plan to sheathe it with boards or gypsum plasterboard sheets over the sheathing. There, under the plasterboard, I will place the electrical wiring leading to the lighting.

To be honest, I have not yet decided how I will make the ceiling, so the frame interfloor ceiling is still in question. I depicted the option in the picture below. Think.

This is where my mistake lies; it was necessary to think in advance about insulating these places. Now you will have to work hard to blow out these places efficiently. I want to hire an installation and blow foam into this distance to a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm, I think this will be enough.

When using mineral wool at the junction of walls, it is recommended to lay insulation 60 cm from the edge of the wall, approximately as in this picture.

My attic is insulated with sawdust, the layer thickness is still 25 cm, when this layer dries completely, I will gradually increase it to 40-50 cm. Sawdust as an insulation material is a very good material, and most importantly, it is practically free. The sawmills themselves call and ask where to unload.

I did not use cotton wool in the attic for reasons of steam regulation in the house. The sawdust will easily release some of the steam to the street, without losing its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, there is no vapor barrier in the house on the second floor ceiling.

Soundproofing

Various materials are used as soundproofing for floors; let’s look at the main ones:

  1. Mineral wool – these include all types of mineral wool used for sound insulation. It is recommended to use a thicker one, although sound waves They are well attenuated by light glass wool. Still, only an integrated approach will save you from impact noise.
  2. Bulk - various backfills, for example, ecowool, sawdust, sand, expanded clay and other materials that have soundproofing characteristics.
  3. Sheet materials in the form of vibration-isolating sheets, special floor coverings for finishing, cork coverings. They are more often used in complex sound insulation methods.
  4. An integrated approach to eliminating noise consists of a combination of various solutions, for example, the use of layers of different densities and strengths.

Construction order

Well, let's finish with the theory, now I'll tell you how I made my ceilings.

The lower and interfloor ceilings in a frame house are almost identical in construction technology. The only thing is that when working on the second floor you should take precautions; falling from there is not very pleasant.


Well, I think it’s time to finish, I hope that after reading the article you will not have any questions about how to make a ceiling in a frame house. If you leave a comment, I will definitely answer.

And if anyone wants to add anything, don’t be shy!

PS.
And one more thing, we had a discussion with my wife, and she decided to try to take on a couple of blog columns. So maybe the blog will soon become a family blog!

Well, that’s all bye everyone, don’t forget to subscribe to updates, I’m off to bed….

One of the most important technological stages The construction of a frame house involves the installation of the floor. The traditional option the best way What fits into the decor of such a building is a wooden floor - an environmentally friendly structure, which, unlike concrete floors, the frame of the building can withstand without any problems.

Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the sequence of flooring in a frame house. Having studied the recommendations given, you will successfully cope with the necessary activities. on our own, avoiding the need to attract third-party craftsmen and the associated costs.

First of all you must choose suitable wood. In the selection process, take into account the climate in the location of the house, the expected intensity of the load on the structure, the available budget, as well as the operating features of the room being equipped.

For greater ease of perception, the key criteria for evaluating materials and recommendations for their use are presented in the form of a table.

Table. Choosing material for flooring in a frame house

Evaluation criterionExplanations and recommendations
Material of manufactureConiferous wood. Relatively a budget option, optimally suited for use in medium and small area. Despite the relatively low cost, it is characterized by very good indicators of durability and reliability.

Oak, aspen. Traditional representatives of the middle and high price segments. Key performance characteristics are noticeably superior to those of its closest “competitors”. Aspen, due to its highest environmental friendliness, is perfect for use in bedrooms and children's rooms.

HumidityFor installing floors in a frame house, especially if we're talking about For living rooms, only high-quality dried wood is suitable. The wet material inevitably decreases as it dries, which leads to the formation of gaps in the coating.
External conditionMake sure that the wood does not have cracks, suspicious spots, splits and other similar defects. Refrain from using such material, even if you are offered a big discount.

To determine the required amount of material, calculate the area of ​​the room. Additionally, add about 5-10% to the calculated value for the reserve. It is most convenient to lay flooring using boards 2 m long. If possible, buy elements from the same batch, manufactured and processed under the same conditions. This will ensure that there are no differences in color, texture and other external evaluation criteria of the boards.

The most preferred material for arranging flooring in a frame house is edged tongue and groove board. The main advantage of the application of this material comes down to the absence of the need for finishing grinding, which makes it possible to significantly reduce labor and time costs.

What could be the floor of a wooden house: a review of existing options

The following materials are most often used for flooring:

  • parquet;
  • glued parquet board. The material costs less than regular parquet, without having any significant external differences, but slightly inferior in a number of performance characteristics;
  • solid parquet board;
  • solid wood board.

Preparatory work

The technology for installing the floor in the building under consideration involves the creation of a two-layer structure consisting of a base and directly wooden materials. Traditionally, flooring is laid on joists or on top of floor beams. When choosing a specific method, you need to take into account, first of all, the features of the room being equipped and its location.

Before use, all wooden components are impregnated with special antiseptic and fire retardant agents. The base of the future floor structure must be waterproofed. Penofol is perfect for this job. If you do not have a sufficient budget, you can also use plastic film.

The procedure for arranging a subfloor in a frame house

Preparation of supports

If your frame is being built on a columnar foundation, you will not have to carry out any additional preparatory measures except for arranging waterproofing of the supports (usually roofing felt is used for this). If you are building a house on another supporting structure, start work by arranging the mentioned pillars. At the discretion of the owner, the supports are either built from brick or cast from concrete, taking into account the design height of the future floor. The spacing of the pillars should not exceed 2 m; on average, an 80-100-centimeter pitch is maintained.

As an example, instructions are given for arranging such concrete supports. The procedure is as follows:

  • using a drill, holes are prepared in the ground with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of about 100 cm;
  • asbestos-cement pipes about 130 cm long are placed in the holes and internal diameter 100 mm;
  • the space in the pits around the pipes is filled with sand, which is spilled with water and compacted;
  • a building mixture prepared from 1 share of cement, 4 shares of sand, about 5 shares of crushed stone and water is poured into the pipes through a funnel;
  • Special plates are installed in the pipes to fix the lags.

Installation of logs

Before installing the logs, you need to make the bottom trim.

If you don't have it ready yet, follow these steps:

  • fix the bottom trim boards to the foundation. The elements are installed on the edge. The most commonly used boards are 15x5 cm in size. If necessary, you can change these indicators to suit the conditions of your situation;
  • connect the boards of the inner bottom trim in the corners using screws;
  • Attach the boards of the middle part of the lower trim to the inner boards using screws;
  • Attach the outer ones to the middle boards. Fixation is also done using screws;
  • plan top part strapping boards using electric planer. Make sure the structure is level using a level;
  • mark the locations for future installation of logs;
  • armed with an electric jigsaw, make grooves in the harness for installing the logs.

Next you need to lay the joists. You can use boards for this either wooden beam dimensions 10x5 cm, 15x5 cm or other dimensions, focusing on the operating characteristics of the room and the expected level of loads on the floor structure. The logs are fixed using any suitable fasteners: screws, dowels, nails, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.

Attach to the joists wooden slats dimensions 3x3 cm (more is possible). To do this, you can use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners. The bars will serve as supports for the ends of the boards of the floor being installed. For greater convenience of further installation of the flooring, connect the logs with transverse bridges from a similar beam/board. Attach the lintels, maintaining a 125-centimeter or other step in accordance with the dimensions of the flooring elements used.

Tighten the boards of the bottom trim using nails, adhering to a checkerboard pattern and a 0.5-0.8-meter step.

Important note! Traditionally in technology frame construction First, the subfloor is laid out, after which walls and partitions are erected. But under certain circumstances or due to the owner’s personal considerations, the order in which the mentioned technological measures are performed may change.

Installation of rough flooring

On top of the previously mentioned support rails measuring 3x3 cm are laid OSB boards(necessarily with moisture-resistant properties) or sheet plywood. The latter, as a rule, is not attached to the support rails, but directly on top of the joists. And if in the case of OSB no difficulties usually arise, then the installation of plywood flooring must be approached with knowledge of a number of important nuances. Rules and recommendations for correct installation Plywood decking is detailed in the following table.

Table. Rules for installing a plywood subfloor

RequirementsExplanations
Laying schemeSheets of plywood need to be mounted staggered, i.e. Each new row should be offset relative to the previous one by approximately half of the sheet element.
Sheet thicknessWhen choosing the thickness of plywood, be guided by the installation step of the support joists. These parameters are interrelated, i.e. you can think about this point even before installing the supports.
So, if the logs are installed at a distance of 30-45 cm, use plywood with a thickness of 16-18 mm or OSB-3 boards with a thickness of 18 mm.
If you install supports with a pitch of 50 cm or more (the maximum value traditionally does not exceed 62.5 cm), buy sheets with a thickness of 18-21 mm or slabs with a thickness of 22 mm.
Fastening the deckA comprehensive method is suitable for attaching plywood, which involves the combined use of glue and self-tapping screws or rough nails. Self-tapping screws will ensure the main fixation of the sheets, and the glue will additionally eliminate the appearance of squeaks.
Plywood is attached around the perimeter and in the middle (diagonally). Place fasteners along the edge of the sheet in 15-centimeter increments; in the middle part, it is recommended to maintain a 30-centimeter gap.
Gaps between sheetsPlywood is laid with 2-3 mm gaps. To ensure equal spacing, insert nails of the appropriate diameter between the sheets. After installing the flooring, you will remove them.

A layer of water vapor barrier material is placed in the space between the joists. It is most convenient to use a construction stapler to attach the film.

The construction work is almost complete. There are only a few final steps left to complete, namely:

  • lay in the cells of the floor frame mineral wool or other selected thermal insulation material;

    Vapor barrier

  • lay boards about 30 mm thick across the joist. Maintain a 40-60 cm step, depending on the thickness of the boards selected for the subsequent flooring and the expected level of loads on the base. To fasten wooden elements, you can use self-tapping screws or any other suitable fastener. Thanks to this additional sheathing, the necessary ventilation gap will be created;
  • lay a tongue-and-groove board 25-35 mm thick on top of the sheathing, or regular board thickness 40-50 mm;
  • arrange the selected finish flooring.

Now you have all the information you need to independent arrangement floor structures in a frame house. Follow the guidelines you have studied and everything will definitely work out.

Plank floor in a frame house

Good luck!

Video - Floor installation in a frame house

Video - How the floor is arranged in a frame house

Floors in a frame house are horizontal surfaces with which the internal volume of the room is enclosed from above and below. These are floors and ceilings fixed to special wooden or concrete structures. They are of great importance, connecting the walls together and making the building structure more rigid. In addition, these elements create additional insulation buildings: their frame must contain insulation.

What types of floors are there?

There are three types of floors in frame buildings:

  • interfloor;
  • sexual;
  • attics.

Floor coverings must be strong and rigid enough to make the floor covering reliable. Attic floors are also made with high quality, since insulation and ceiling trim are attached to them.

At interfloor ceilings two functions at the same time - to be a floor for the upper floor and a ceiling for the lower one. These floors are subject to vertical loads, so the beams must be resistant to vertical deflections.

Requirements for the floor structure

The interfloor ceiling in a frame house must meet many criteria, but the main requirements are:

  1. Rigid and durable construction that can withstand heavy loads.
  2. No beam should bend under the influence of gravity.
  3. The wooden floors of a frame house must have good sound insulation so that noise and extraneous sounds from one floor do not penetrate to another.
  4. Important to do high-quality insulation. The attic and basement floors should be especially well insulated.
  5. All main floor elements must have good fire resistance so that an accidental fire on one floor does not spread to the entire building.
  6. You should not make too massive, expensive and huge structures - the ceiling arrangement should be as simple and budget-friendly as possible.

Features of floors

After the construction of the lower level, it is necessary to make a floor from the same materials as the frame in order to continue the construction of the next level of the house. It is important that frame walls were level in the horizontal plane. This will allow you to quickly make the overlap.

In fact, the ceiling is the basis for the upper level. That is, the ceiling of the first floor (the layer between the first and second floors) becomes the floor for the second floor. This means that the structure must be especially durable. For this purpose, it is better to strengthen the logs if necessary, because internal non-main walls will be fixed to them.

Sometimes a house design involves the participation of floor joists in the design rafter system. This has its drawbacks:

  • the thermal insulation layer will be significantly reduced, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
  • will have to provide for complex ventilation system under-roof space in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bjoints of joists and rafters;
  • When erecting rafters, you will have to construct a flooring from boards or plywood.

Logs for interfloor ceilings can be of different thicknesses. So, if no one will walk on them, you can put thin boards. If the upper room is residential, the logs should be of a large cross-section, no less than on the first floor.

Installation procedure and rules

Even without planning to install the floors of a frame house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the design and installation of this important element.

To install interfloor slabs, you first need to lay them around the perimeter of the house. beam harness, and then fasten the logs onto it with nails. If there is a large span, it is better to make glued beams.

Floor beams have a dual function. On one side, a plasterboard ceiling is attached to them, on the other, floor joists are filled. The thickness of the floor boards must be at least 1/20 of the length. For example, a span of 4 m will require a log with a thickness of 20 cm. The floor space is filled with insulation.

Beams are made from thick logs, which are sawn into pieces with a thickness of 70 mm. You can also knock together two boards whose thickness is 50 mm.

Connect the boards to each other with nails or metal staples. Floor beams have advantages: they are low cost, easy installation, high thermal insulation properties, long service life (up to 50 years).

Wooden beams are a fire hazardous material. This means that they need to be treated with fire-resistant impregnations, antifungal compounds and anti-rot agents.

Insulation of floors between floors

Mineral wool has important advantages: it is of natural origin, low thermal conductivity, it is light and non-flammable. Therefore, it is best to use it for insulating floors. But you can also use other alternative materials for sound and heat insulation:

  • perlite;
  • Styrofoam;
  • expanded clay;
  • slag;
  • dry sand;
  • sawdust.

Floor materials

It is best to choose coniferous wood. It could be pine, spruce, larch. The main load is placed on beams or joists, and then transferred to the walls, frame and foundation.

For floor beams, processed round beams with two edges or boards knocked together are used.

The supporting beams must be appropriately sized depending on the load they will experience and the length of the span. Size values ​​can be found in special tables.

Load calculation

Floors experience the following types of load:

  • support their own weight;
  • the mass of the part of the house that is higher than them;
  • variable load from the presence of people and from the installation of furniture and things.

On average, its own mass is 150-200 kg each square meter floors. The specific weight depends on the type of insulation and the thickness of all structural elements. U attic floors the weight is even greater because more insulation needs to be installed there.

As for variable loads, their average values ​​are up to 100 kg per 1 sq. m, and sometimes more. To understand the total load, it is necessary to sum the constant and variable loads at their maximum values.

Next, the tables look at the required thickness of the beams, taking into account their length. The beams are installed on the perimeter frame using metal corners. When installing an interfloor or attic floor, it is important to install the beams clearly above the vertical frame posts.

Sheeting and flooring

Having installed ceiling beams and having checked whether they are strong enough and whether they are fastened correctly, they begin to install flooring on top of them so that they can be walked on. After this, the ceiling lining is installed below.

For interfloor ceilings, it is necessary to select high-quality lining. It must withstand its weight, as well as the load of the ceiling finishing, insulation and all decorative and functional elements that will be attached to it. These are lamps, some furniture elements, some decorations.

Despite all this, the load-bearing capacity of the skin should not be too high. For these purposes, any frame house uses some kind of sheet materials. For example, it could even be ordinary drywall. Its use is very beneficial, since it not only allows you to make the ceiling as smooth as possible, but is also a fire-resistant material.

When choosing a lining for the floor and ceiling, you need to remember that it must withstand a greater load, since in these places there is a larger layer of insulation than in the interfloor. In addition, additional elements of the floor structure appear. Therefore, here it is already rational to use not ordinary drywall, but tongue-and-groove boards and other similar options.

Rewind device option

The work begins with the fact that specially prepared cranial bars are filled to the lower part of the ceiling beams of the ceiling system along the entire length from the side. Ordinary wooden slats with a cross-section of 30x50 mm are perfect for this purpose. They are necessary for installing roll-up shields. They mean sheets of drywall, plywood, other materials or boards that can support the weight of the insulation.

Rolling is necessary not only for decorative purposes. It holds on itself all structural elements that are not fixed to the floor beams. In addition, this lining element also supports the load from below in the form of finishing and its decorative parts.

There are two types of flooring that are used in frame houses. The first is a draft, the second is a running one. Only the draft version is used in attics so that they can be moved comfortably. Running flooring refers to the installation of a finished plank floor.

Installing both rough and finishing flooring involves laying boards on the beams and securing them. Thus, the installation of the flooring is the same, but the requirements for the quality of work are different.

When nailing the subfloor boards to the beams, a special gap is created. It is necessary for air to circulate through the floor. When nailing the running (or finishing) flooring, there is no gap, and the boards are joined tightly.

It should be noted that it is not necessary to make a continuous flooring in attics that will not be used. To do this, it is enough to fill the boards along certain routes that will be needed to solve any emergency problems. For example, to access the ridge of a roof or a chimney.

Floor pie in frame houses

It doesn’t matter what technologies are used to build a frame house and how its design is carried out, the floors have approximately the same design and structure. If we talk from bottom to top, then first comes the filing (or rolling). Then a plastic film, glassine, roofing felt or other waterproofing layer is stretched over it.

Next install insulation layer. On the ground floor it is convenient to use bulk fillers. This can be expanded clay, perlite, furnace slag, and other materials. Between floors it is optimal to use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, glass wool or other slabs and roll insulation.

Insulation is necessary for floors and ceilings in a frame house. If you need to soundproof between rooms, do this using acoustic soundproofing wool.

The amount of insulation that will be used to insulate different parts of a frame house can be calculated using tables.

Having installed the insulation or backfilled it, if it is loose, you can pour sand-cement mortar on top to screed the entire structure. This is especially true for attic floors. This is resorted to in order to slow down the destruction of the insulation and maximize the service life of the ceiling.

Conditions for the durability of floors

To overlap frame building performed all their functions, it is necessary to maintain them in proper conditions that will maximize the strength of the structure throughout its entire service life. Thus, it is necessary to prevent dampness and moisture from entering the ceilings and accumulating there. It is this that often has the most destructive effect on the tree.

Air in frame houses must circulate both horizontally and vertically. A ceilings deprive it of the ability to pass between floors. Therefore, when there is a temperature difference, condensation appears on them as at the coldest point in contact with air.

If air does not circulate, the wood begins to get wet, it becomes damp, which leads to rotting of the structure and the rapid spread of mold. Wood easily absorbs moisture and begins to swell. Because of this, the dimensions of individual frame house structures change, which leads to unnecessary stress.

If this situation continues, the strength of the entire house will begin to suffer, which will lead to rapid wear and tear and forced cessation of operation. And due to the fact that with increased humidity, fungi will begin to actively develop, this will accelerate the destruction of wooden structures and further reduce the life of the building.

Humidity and dampness most often enter the house due to improperly installed floor coverings. Occasionally, the cause is also the attic floor. As for interior floors, they are not threatened by excess moisture in the house.

The exception is ceilings in the toilet, bathroom, and kitchen. When performing them, they make an additional layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not penetrate into wooden frame and did not accumulate there.

Video: rules and analysis of interfloor ceiling errors

So, installing floors in a frame house is not considered a difficult task. But there are a number of subtleties and technical standards that must be followed. This is necessary in order to make the operation of the house as comfortable and long-lasting as possible. All remaining questions are answered in the video.

The floor and ceiling in a frame house are horizontal surfaces that limit and enclose its internal volume. They are mounted on floors that are part of the load-bearing frame of the house. And in this sense, the importance of overlaps is difficult to overestimate. In addition to the fact that they close on themselves vertical walls, forming a single strong spatial structure, the floors provide rigidity to the floor and ceiling, as well as thermal insulation and noise protection of the entire house.

Both the structure of the floors and the materials used for them depend on their place and purpose in the house. In a frame house, there are three types of floors: floor, ceiling (attic) and interfloor.

The first task is to provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the floor. Ceilings support only the ceiling finishing and a layer of insulation, sometimes very impressive.

The interfloor ceiling performs the functions of both floor and ceiling, being the carrier of the floor of the upper floor and the ceiling of the lower.

The most unpleasant load on the structure in question is vertical. Therefore, the base of the floor is calculated based on the need to minimize vertical deflections.

In a frame house, the floors in the vast majority of cases are made of coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce or larch. The basis is floor joists or ceiling beams. It is they who take on all the loads of the floor, then transferring them to the upper or lower trim, as well as to interior walls or foundation.

Floor beams can be processed with two or four edges round wood, timber or edge-mounted boards with a thickness of at least 80 mm. It is acceptable to replace thick boards with paired thinner ones, for example, 50 mm thick. The main thing is to firmly and reliably “sew” them together. A more complex, but advantageous option in terms of rigidity/price is a device made from box-shaped boards or I-beams.

The standard size of load-bearing beams is determined depending on the span, load and permissible deflection. This value is for reference, and if necessary, the corresponding tables can be easily found on the Internet. Typical design frame houses allows you to record the average load values, from which you can determine the cross-section of the support beams.

Thus, the load on the floors consists of a constant component - their own mass, as well as variable loads that appear during the operation of the house. The dead weight of one square meter of interfloor and floor coverings of a frame house depends on their design, the insulation and sound insulation used and is usually 210-230 kg.

The dead weight of attic floors is higher, since more insulating materials are used here. It can range from 260 to 300 kg. However, variable loads for attic floors are less and, as a rule, do not exceed 100 kg per square meter, while for interfloor floors this figure is twice as high.

In order to calculate the total load on the floor, it is necessary to add the constant and variable components. Taking into account the span length of the beams and their profile, we find the cross-sectional area using the table. The distance between the beams is determined in a similar way, which is usually from 0.5 to 1 m.

Floor beams are installed on the frame and secured either using metal corners or cut directly into strapping beam(board). For interfloor and attic floors there is a requirement: beams must be installed only above vertical posts wall frame.

If in this case the pitch of the floor beams does not coincide with the calculated one, the latter must be reduced to a value that is a multiple of the pitch of the frame racks.

Flooring and filing

After installing and securing the beams, a flooring (top) and a lining (bottom) are installed on them. Interfloor ceiling requires a lining that supports only its own weight, decorative ceiling elements, as well as a light weight of soundproofing material. Therefore, the requirements for load-bearing capacity are minimal. Almost any material can be used as such a lining in a frame house. sheet material, for example, ceiling plasterboard, which also significantly increases the fire resistance of the building.

The attic and floor lining must support a significantly greater weight of insulation and other elements of the floor structure. Therefore, it is made from tongue-and-groove boards 30 mm thick.

Another option is a rewind device. In the lower part of the floor beams, so-called cranial bars are packed on the sides along their entire length. Typically, a rail with a cross section of 30x50 mm is used for this purpose. And roll-over shields are already laid on them: boards or any sheet material that can withstand the weight of the insulator, for example, plywood. In this case, the entire load from the weight of the internal elements of the floor falls on the roll. And the only thing left to do is support the weight of the ceiling trim.

In a frame house, there are two types of flooring: running and rough. Walking flooring is used in the attic to allow movement around it. In addition, the running flooring is a finished plank floor. Both types are arranged by fastening boards either directly to beams (floor joists) or through elastic pads.

But they differ in the quality of installation: the running floor boards are held together, while the subfloor boards are nailed with a gap necessary for the movement of air from reverse side finished floor. In attics that are not planned to be used, you can do without a top flooring. Instead, so-called passage boards are laid along the emergency passage route.

"Stuffing" of the ceiling

Floors of any type have a similar structure. Glassine, roofing felt, or simply plastic film are placed on the roll or directly on the hem. Insulating material is poured or laid on top. Naturally, bulk insulation materials are poured, such as expanded clay, furnace slag, perlite, etc. Sheet or roll insulation materials are laid: polystyrene foam, glass wool, etc.

Please note that only floor and attic floors need to be insulated, and interior floors are only soundproofed with acoustic mineral wool. Required amount insulation is determined from tables depending on its type and average winter air temperature.

Helpful advice: after filling the insulation into the attic floor, it is recommended to pour it on top with sand-cement or lime mortar. This event will significantly slow down the destruction of the insulation and extend its service life.

Ensuring optimal operating conditions

Given the importance of floors to ensure normal functioning frame house, it is necessary to create proper conditions for it to maintain its strength characteristics throughout the entire life of the house. And the most important of external factors, which has a negative impact on wooden structures ceiling, is moisture.

Any overlap to a greater or lesser extent prevents the free movement of air containing water vapor. And under certain conditions (temperature changes, air humidity) wooden parts moisture condenses in the ceiling. In the absence of sufficient air movement, the wood remains wet for a long time, which is fraught with the following consequences.

Firstly, the tree absorbs moisture and swells, changing its linear dimensions. And this, in turn, creates increased stress in the structure. Several cycles of “swelling - drying” can lead to a loss of strength of the joints of the floor parts, which will make their operation difficult, if not impossible.

Secondly, wet cellulose is a very good environment for mold growth, which can destroy floor beams in 2-3 years. The problem of humidity is acute for floors, to a much lesser extent for attic floors, and is generally not relevant for interior floors.

Therefore, to ensure normal air circulation in the basement, it is recommended to install ventilation ducts or wells.

Require special attention wooden floors in rooms with high humidity(bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.). Here it is advisable to supplement the ceilings with a waterproofing layer. But it’s better to refuse the bottom hem, limiting yourself to one roll. On the one hand, this will improve air exchange, on the other hand, it will allow you to control the condition of the ceiling parts.

As you may have noticed, it is not so difficult to arrange a ceiling in a frame house. The main thing is to do everything right. And then you will not remember its existence while you live in the house.