How to properly prepare a bed for strawberries in the spring. How to prepare a bed for strawberries for planting in the fall

Traditional Russian beds on a flat surface or on an earthen ridge for garden strawberries have significant drawbacks that gardeners no longer want to put up with.

You can often come across the statement that strawberries are a finicky berry. This is not true at all. It does not require frequent watering and fertilizing, winters well, reproduces well and is able to grow in one place for a long time.

Everything strawberries need for a high and healthy harvest: access of oxygen to the roots without waterlogging, good air circulation in the growth zone of the bushes, a lighted area, fertile soil and no contact of the berries with the soil. It will help to create all these conditions correct device beds.

Parameters of an ideal bed and general planting rules

With good agricultural technology, a strawberry plantation can last up to 5 years. Then the soil accumulates pathogens, becomes depleted, and old bushes bear fruit worse. A change of site or replacement of soil and renewal of plants is required.

Planting material can be purchased at a gardening store, or you can use the natural tendency of strawberries to grow mustaches, capturing new territory. If you take seedlings from your own plot, then you need to be sure that there are no nematodes and strawberry mites. Disinfection from pathogens is mandatory for both your own and purchased material.

Note! Remontant strawberry gives less mustache, row spacing remains clean longer. If you plan to propagate your variety, then in the second half of summer, pick off the flowers, loosen the rows and carry out moderate watering.

Regardless of the type of bed, we note the parameters that are always taken into account to create an ideal microclimate:

• bed width 80 cm: plants are planted in two rows with a row spacing of 40 cm, the bushes are well ventilated, row spacing is easy to weed and loosen, there are no difficulties with picking berries;
• the bed is oriented from east to west: uniform lighting throughout the day;
• the distance between plants in a row is 25-30 cm: remontant varieties form more powerful and tall bushes, so for them the distance is increased to 30 cm;
• the optimal distance between individual beds is 65 cm: this is enough for travel garden wheelbarrow to carry out gardening work without hindrance;
• bed height in different technologies taken from 20 cm to 1 m, but even a small rise is favorable for the development of the crop;
• the soil between the beds is kept in sod (the growing grass is simply mowed at a level of 5 cm): black soil overheats, and weeds serve as a breeding ground for pests and diseases, while low-mown grass is both pleasant to the eye and useful for the garden;
• seedlings are planted under black film (manufacturers supply it with already cut holes, according to the planting scheme): there are no weeds, the berries do not come into contact with the soil and remain clean even after rain, as a result the spread of gray rot is noticeably reduced;
• it is undesirable to have strawberries next to each other fruit trees: in some years, strawberry bushes may suffer from attacks by leaf-eating caterpillars.

Planting scheme options

When creating a garden bed, we must not forget about drainage and nutrient soil. Well-filled with organic matter (compost, humus, peat) soil can provide a rich harvest within 3-4 years of cultivation without additional fertilizing. To prevent gray rot, the soil is spilled with a solution of Fitosporin before planting seedlings.

High bed for strawberries

Fences can have a height of 20-40 or even 90-100 cm. The second option is more convenient in caring for plants and when harvesting, indispensable in wetlands and in close proximity groundwater with frequent spring flooding. But he also has negative points: the soil dries out faster, plants experience overheating, and in severe winters there is a high probability of freezing.

Here it is necessary to use mulch or black film and winter cover with spunbond or lutrasil in regions with frosty winters, and it is also desirable to install drip irrigation for uniform hydration.

For beds less than 40 cm, weather disasters are not so terrible, but to care for them you will have to bend over and sit down. You can make a box for a garden bed yourself from boards, slate, bricks, or order ready-made ones.

At the site where the box is installed, a layer of earth 10 cm thick is removed. Then a protective mesh against rodents or geotextiles is laid and the box is installed so that its walls are buried 10 cm. Large branches and broken bricks are laid out at the bottom of the bed for drainage. On last stage the box is filled with nutritious soil from compost, garden soil and bird droppings.

Attention! You cannot take soil from the beds after nightshades, cabbage and cucumbers, as it may be infected with gray rot.

Warm strawberry bed filled with organic matter

The principle of a warm bed is the slow decomposition of organic material, releasing heat. This device is suitable for regions with cool summers and late recurrent frosts. Filling the bed resembles layered cake. The layers are the same as in a compost heap, only in reverse order.

Large wood waste is placed at the bottom: wood chips, thick branches, chopped stumps. Next, pieces of cardboard are laid out in several layers. Sawdust and shavings are poured on top, covering everything with a layer of freshly cut grass (great if you have crops of green manure) and chopped weeds (if you are preparing a bed in the summer, make sure there are no seeds).

Last layer by layer matured humus or compost. The root system of strawberries is fibrous and highly branched. The bulk of the roots are located in a layer of 20-25 cm. This must be taken into account when determining the thickness of the fertile layer.

The average height of a warm bed is about 1 m. If you want to “lower” the fence, dig a pit of the required depth before installing and filling the box.

Vertical bed made of pipe: closer to the sun

The idea of ​​vertical beds tempts with their space-saving and decorative qualities. Such option will do for areas with any soil, and the bed itself can be placed right in the recreation area and enjoy the aroma and taste of ripening berries while lying in a hammock. But still, this technology is good for wet and soft maritime climate, and not for the arid Volga region or the harsh Moscow region.

A small volume of soil mixture dries out quickly, so a built-in semi-automatic watering system is required. To increase moisture capacity, hydrogel is added to the substrate.

The process of making a vertical bed from a plastic pipe includes the following steps:

• in a pipe of the required length, cut holes with a diameter of 10 cm;
• the first lower hole is located 80 cm from the edge (this part of the pipe will be buried in the soil)
• in the lower part we place a plug with drainage holes;
• an irrigation tube with holes, wrapped in agrofibre or burlap, or a drip irrigation tape is installed in the center of the cylinder;
• the pipe is filled with substrate simultaneously with planting the seedlings;
• plants can overheat greatly, so it is advisable to cover the plantings with white spunbond.

For the winter, vertical structures in Middle lane Russia is either transferred to a horizontal position and thoroughly covered, or brought into a closed room.

Another nuance of a vertical plantation: it is impossible to collect planting material from it to renew the plantings. Therefore, to preserve the collection of varieties, we recommend leaving a few bushes in a traditional garden bed.

Interesting options for do-it-yourself strawberry beds

In this section, we will look at ideas for mobile beds that can be located in any sunny part of the site. They can be made from cheap scrap materials. In order for the plants to develop and bear fruit, the structures are filled with a substrate enriched with organic matter. During the growing season, fertilizing with an ash solution, infusion of bird droppings or mineral fertilizers is required. To increase water-holding capacity, hydrogel is added to the soil.

Even with proper care mobile beds short-lived. Save the yield for high level A complete replacement of the soil every 2 years will allow.

A bed of plastic bottles

For the full development of a strawberry bush, a volume of at least 2 liters is required. We cut off the neck of the bottles, but do not throw them away. We'll make it out of him drainage device: remove the lid and lower the resulting funnel to the bottom of the bottle, wrapping it in a thick layer of burlap or agrofibre; at the bottom of the bottle, retreating 5 cm, we make round hole for drainage and evaporation of excess moisture with a diameter of 5 cm.

To ensure systematic watering, we make several holes in the bottom of each bottle through which water will flow from the top bottle to the bottom. Don't do too much high bed, a chain of 4-5 bottles is enough.

We plant the seedlings in a hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm. We place the bottles on top of each other, securely fastening them with wire to a wooden frame.

This option is well suited for creating an annual ornamental garden. It can be placed near the playground so that children can enjoy clean berries and not spoil the main beds.

Horizontal bed made of PVC pipe

The essence of the idea is this: holes with a diameter of 10-15 cm are made in a large-diameter pipe at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other, filled with nutrient soil and installed on high supports. Drainage - small pebbles.

Watering is carried out through inner tube with a diameter of 40-50 mm with holes; to distribute the water evenly, the pipe is wrapped with a covering material. A more effective, but costly method is drip irrigation.

A bed of old car tires

Not the most environmentally friendly option, but actively used. You can create a column by placing tires of the same diameter on top of each other. Or make a pyramid using tires different diameters. Let's consider the first method, since it has some nuances.

Cut out the top square holes 10x10 cm, make an interval of 15 cm between the holes. We must not forget about drainage. In the place where the column bed is installed, you need to dig a shallow pit of 7-10 cm and fill it with sand and crushed stone. In the lower part around the circle of each tire, we make holes with a drill for water drainage.

To make the soil sufficiently loose and breathable, add peat and perlite.

Strawberries in hanging bags

This is an excellent option for growing on a balcony, terrace or gazebo. It should also be considered as an addition to stationary beds. Seedlings are planted in bags with pockets or in separate small bags. You can sew them yourself from thick fabric or buy them ready-made at a gardening store.

There is no need to think about drainage here, since the water itself will drain through the burlap. Plant care includes frequent and not abundant watering, fertilizing and evening spraying of leaves.

Wooden strawberry pyramids

Environmentally friendly and durable beds can be made from wooden boards. First, several boxes with different perimeters are knocked down so that they can assemble a pyramid.

Then the structure is filled with nutritious soil and the seedlings are planted. Low pyramids with shelter tolerate Russian winters well.

Constructor bed made from blocks

Among the available materials at the dacha there are often various building blocks, which can be perfectly used for organizing beds and flower beds. Hollow block offers more options than standard solid brick or brick that serves only as a fence.

Like construction elements, such blocks are stacked into various designs, and their voids are filled with strawberry bushes.

In one place, strawberries can grow for up to 6 years, but the peak of its active fruiting occurs in the 3rd and 4th years of growth. Therefore, prepare the bed for this berry thoroughly. I give an example of how I make strawberry beds.

I dig up the earth, make a trench, put compost inside and bury it. I sprinkle the mineral fertilizer Superphosphate on top (the norm is in accordance with the instructions). If you have sand or humus, you can add them to better loosen the soil.

Then I harrow (level) the bed with a rake. Next I water the soil with BIO fungicide - natural protection against fungal and bacterial diseases. I buy the drug in the form of a paste and prepare a liquid solution from it by dissolving 1 part of the paste in 2 parts of rainwater (the solution can be stored in this form for the entire season). And then I prepare a working solution from this basic solution: 1 tbsp. l. liquid preparation per 10 l. water - per 1 sq. m.

• My rules for cultivating land for strawberries or any other plantings are almost the same. The main thing in this treatment is not to use chemicals. If you have to use it sometimes chemicals, then I try to do it with caution and to a minimum.

If there is a black covering material - spunbond - then I cover the bed with it for a couple of weeks, if there is no material, then you can cover it with film or even boards. The soil should remain moist.

The compost I use is immature and that's what's good about it. After all, after just a couple of weeks, the soil is transformed (this can be clearly seen in the video below)! It becomes crumbly, blacker in color, and the number of earthworms increases. My strawberries grow in one place for up to 4 years, and for the first two years I feed the berries very little - the berries receive their main nutrition from compost and properly prepared soil.

The berry easily tolerates increased acidity of the soil, so I don’t scatter any dolomite or slaked lime. But ash can be added when planting.

I make the width of the strawberry bed approximately 70-80 cm. I place two rows of bushes on it at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge and 30-35 cm, one row from the other and between the bushes. If possible, I fence the beds with slate so that the edges do not crumble, but the main thing is that there are no slugs on the plant. They, with their delicate bodies, are simply not able to crawl along the rough surface of slate.

After planting the strawberries, I water the bed thoroughly.

I once planted strawberries under spunbond. I freed myself from weeding and frequent watering, but ants often appear under the material. This is a photo from previous years.

I have often read that the best time to plant strawberries is from July 25 to August 10. But I plant strawberries later. The main thing I follow is that the prepared bed must remain covered for at least 2 weeks and the seedlings must be planted no later than August 25th. Remember that planting times vary in each region.

On the slate (or any other edging) I always make a mark with a marker - the year the strawberries were planted.

When planting new bushes, I make sure to cut off all the leaves, and most of the leaves on the runners, leaving no more than two. Strawberries have time to grow greenery and prepare for winter long before the onset of sub-zero temperatures at night.

Author of the article: Love

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Any berry crop requires painstaking and careful preparation before boarding. And for strawberries, you should be concerned not only with choosing a place and seed material, but also by proper preparation of the soil substrate, which has its own requirements.

What should be the soil for strawberries?

Before we talk about the soil, we need to talk about the basic requirements for the planting site, because these same requirements also affect the soil.

Strawberries also do not tolerate drafts and cold winds; make sure that the selected location is not heavily blown.

The following can be said about the soil for strawberries:

1. It should be loose.
2. The soil pH should be close to neutral (that is, no less than 5.5 and no more than 8).
3. The soil should be moist, not wet. That is, the water content in the soil should be no more than 90% and no less than 70%.
4. Medium or light loams and sandy loams are suitable for strawberries. It, of course, can grow on heavy loams and on sandy soils, but will bear very little fruit.
5. The soil should have a high humus content (about 3%).

Strawberries can deplete the soil on which they sit, so they need to be replanted every 3-4 years to new, more fertile soil

Predecessors of strawberries

Crop rotation is extremely important for strawberries, so you should select the beds for planting very carefully. Be careful not to plant strawberries after crops that harm them.

The most harmful predecessors of strawberries are Solanaceae. Indeed, it is extremely harmful to plant strawberries after potatoes or tomatoes, as they deplete the soil and can infect it with fungal diseases or rot.

You should also not place strawberries on beds of cabbage or zucchini, because these plants tend to draw phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen from the soil, which strawberry bushes need so much.

Strawberries also grow poorly after Compositae crops, such as Jerusalem artichoke, because they leave behind soil poor in both nutrients and moisture.

Precursors useful for strawberries are:

• Carrot.
• Garlic not only enriches the soil useful substances, but also drives away pests when planted nearby.
• Parsley, by the way, is good and easy to plant nearby, as it drives away slugs.
• Legumes (peas, beans, lentils), which enrich the soil with nitrogen compounds.
• Alkaloid lupine, which is also a green manure, can make the soil whiter and looser.
• White buckwheat is not only a useful green manure, but also an excellent honey plant that fills the soil with a whole range of nutrients.

Indeed, such an order of changing crops would be the most optimal and correct both for the strawberries themselves and for the crops following them

It is necessary to immediately clarify that different varieties of strawberries, such as large-fruited or small-fruited, remontant, red, white, will not require specific soil. We just remember that you can’t plant strawberries in the soil where the strawberries were sitting.

Preparing soil substrate for strawberries

To improve the fertility of strawberries, the soil is prepared in advance, preferably a week before planting the plant, and better in autumn so that the beds have time to rot over the winter. And they do it like this:

Preparing the soil for growing strawberries at home

When you grow strawberries at home, planting them in pots, containers or other containers, you can use ready-made soil for strawberries. Or you can prepare the soil yourself.

Don't forget to make a drainage layer in the pots.

Video: preparing soil for planting strawberries

Features of soil preparation for growing strawberries in bags and pipes

Many gardeners like non-standard approaches to growing berry crops, for example, strawberries can be grown in nylon bags or in PVC pipes. And although planting in such unusual containers requires special materials and preparation, the soil for strawberries is not very different from the soil substrate for pots and containers. For example, the base soil for bags and pipes is the same as for planting in pots or containers. But soil additives are excellent.

Features of soil for strawberry seedlings

Planting seeds for seedlings requires a special painstaking attitude from the gardener, so we will look at the preparation of the soil substrate step by step.

So, although the soil for strawberries needs special soil, it is not difficult to prepare such soil and is quite possible at home. You just need to clearly imagine how strawberries will be grown further, in open or closed ground, in bags, pots, or maybe even in pipes. And if you are growing strawberry seedlings, you should definitely disinfect the soil in which the seeds will be placed.

@yagodyvam

By planting strawberries correctly in August, you can get good harvest already at the beginning of next summer. In order for the berries to be large and fragrant, pests not to spoil the young bushes, and frosts not to destroy the plants, you need to adhere to the basic rules of planting garden strawberries. The optimal period for planting strawberry seedlings is from August 20 to September 15.

How to choose the right strawberries for planting?

Not all varieties are suitable for planting in August. The most resistant to unfavorable conditions are the hybrids:

1. Temptation. Early ripening and large-fruited hybrid variety, bred by English breeders. From one bush you can collect 3 kg of berries with a delicate musky flavor.
2. Albion. American hybrid of garden strawberries. The yield of 1 bush is 2 kg of berries.
3. Queen Elizabeth II. Bred by Russian breeders. This variety produces 2 harvests per year. The berries store well and are easy to transport.
4. Mara de Bois. A French hybrid that is particularly frost-resistant and has sweet, round fruits.

For August planting it is necessary to purchase seedlings good quality. It is recommended to buy annual bushes with three well-developed leaves. It is better if their root system is closed. Therefore, preference should be given to seedlings grown in transparent cups. The roots of young strawberries should be fibrous and well-grown.

Signs of healthy seedlings:

1. The leaves are leathery and shiny, have pubescence and are colored rich green.
2. The horn has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm.
3. Root length open seedlings more than 7 cm, for a closed one - more than 5 cm.
4. Seedlings without damage to leaves and root system.
5. The core of the bush is elastic and strong.
6. The root system of seedlings grown in cups occupies the entire volume of the container.
7. Roots are visible from a peat pot.

If you buy seedlings on the market from private gardeners, then you need to take into account the risk of infection of the bushes with insect larvae, fungal spores and pathogenic microorganisms. Large nurseries sell “healthy” plants, but this does not guarantee a complete absence of infection. Strawberry bushes for planting are sold from late July to early August.

You should not buy seedlings if they have pale and wrinkled leaves. Dots, tubercles, dashes and spots on seedlings are signs of infection by pathogenic microorganisms or pests.

Before planting, the purchased seedlings must be completely immersed (along with the cups) in hot water(+50°C) for 20 minutes. This treatment will help get rid of root aphids, nematodes and spider mite. It is recommended to spray the seedlings and planting holes with a fungicide solution.

Selection and formation of beds for strawberries

You need to start creating a new bed in July in order to complete planting in August, otherwise the strawberry mustache will not have time to prepare for winter. Raised beds are suitable for areas with high groundwater levels, and trenches are suitable for arid regions with little snow in winters.

Bulk beds

Bulk warm beds are made in a special wooden box made from boards 25 cm wide. It will hold the soil, and if you line the bottom with cardboard, it will protect strawberries from weeds and pests. Bulk beds are warmer due to the fact that wood and sand retain heat inside the box. The width of the bulk bed is 1 m. Good drainage will protect root system strawberries from rotting.

The order of bulk layers:

1. Cardboard.
2. Sand.
3. Compost.
4. 10 cm of soil.

Vertical beds

The beds shown in the photo save space on the site and are easy to maintain. They are made using various materials:

1. Plastic pipes filled with soil mixture are installed vertically. Holes are cut in them every 40 cm. Garden strawberry seedlings are rooted in the slots.
2. Thick polyethylene or burlap bags are filled with nutrient substrate for fruit and berry crops. They are hung on the wall or stacked one on top of the other. Slots are made in the material of the bag for planting sprouts.
3. Chain-link mesh is used for vertical cylindrical beds. To do this, a pipe is rolled out of it required diameter, which is filled with substrate for growing strawberries. It is convenient to plant young bushes in the grid cells.

Trenches

In order to form nutritious soil for strawberry beds, trenches 30 cm deep and up to 1 m wide are dug in the selected area. They are laid inside along the perimeter wooden boards, slate sheets or lining sections. You can lay cardboard at the bottom of the trench to protect against weeds or a chain-link mesh if there is a possibility of damage to plants by moles.

The order of layers filling the trench:

1. Fresh plant residues (legumes or corn).
2. Humus.
3. Chernozem.

Before planting garden strawberries, the trench bed is covered with agrofibre with perforated holes into which the sprouts are planted. Then they tighten it on top with protective material. Such beds are also called “smart” because they have everything necessary for plants to grow independently.

Low German bed for strawberries

To create a low bed German technology, furrows are not laid between the rows, but partitions made of slate, boards, lining or bricks are placed. The height of the bed is 20-40 cm, and the width is 40-80 cm. Strawberry bushes can be planted in 2 rows, and the distance between the seedlings should be at least 40 cm.

Decorative vertical beds

These beds can decorate the site and help optimize the space on it:

• Pocket;
• pyramid structures;
• from plastic pipes.

To sew a pocket bed, you need to fold the foil insulation in half, stitch it along the edges, forming a bag. Mark no more than three pockets per 1 m² and sew them according to the markings. On each pocket, at a distance of 3 cm from the seam, make a semicircular incision. The pockets are filled with a nutrient mixture, watered abundantly and the sprouts are rooted in them. This bed can be attached to a fence or wall.

Pyramid structures are made from wooden slats or from fittings. A pyramid tripod is made from three slats of equal length. Between them are fixed shelves for pots or slats for hanging containers with substrate for strawberries.

Plastic pipes filled with nutrient substrate can be placed vertically and slits can be made in them for rooting sprouts. Another way is to cut off some of the plastic along the empty pipe. Place the resulting long container horizontally, with the cut part up, with a slight slope at the cut point. Cut the next pipe in the same way and place it on top of the first, tilting the slot. Build the structure like a log wall. Fill the pipes with substrate and plant strawberry sprouts in them.

High beds made from barrels or tires

In order to make a high pyramidal bed, use car tires or plastic barrels of different diameters. In the center of the structure you can install a vertical plastic pipe with small holes for internal watering of cascades. You can put a chain-link mesh under the bed, which will prevent moles from damaging the strawberries.

You need to cut the rubber off the tires so that you get rubber cylinders. The bottom is cut off from the barrel and top part so that the remaining plastic rim is 40 cm high.

The first tier of the cascade is made of a tire or plastic rim largest diameter. It is installed on a chain-link mesh and filled with nutritious soil mixture. For the second level, the tire or rim is chosen so that when installed in the center of the first tier, the width of the bed remains 20-40 cm. Assembly of the cascade structure can be continued as long as the diameter of the previous level allows.

Preparing a bed for strawberries

Before planting, it is necessary to fertilize and disinfect the soil.

What crops are best to plant after?

Strawberries grow well after legumes (beans, peas) and cereals (oats, corn). Root vegetables will be good predecessors: carrots, radishes and radishes. Before strawberries, you can grow greens in the selected area: parsley, dill, lettuce, garlic or onions. You can alternate the following crop rotation: garden strawberries and bulbous flowers (crocuses, tulips, snowdrops).

How to fertilize the soil before planting?

When digging up a site and forming a bed, per 1 m² of soil you need to add:

• 100 g of superphosphate fertilizer;
• 50 g of nitrogenous fertilizers;
• 7 kg of humus soil;
• 50 g potassium salts.

Soil disinfection

Before planting young bushes, weed seeds must be destroyed. Garden strawberries reproduce by tendrils, which, when growing, should not encounter root obstacles. To prevent strawberry diseases, it is necessary to promptly neutralize fungal spores and larvae of insect pests in the soil. You can cope with these problems using an ammonia solution or Roundup.

The process of planting strawberries in August

Planting strawberries in open ground, you need to follow the basic landing rules:

1. The sprouts are planted in a hole in which a small earthen mound is made.
2. The roots are not bent - they should freely descend along the tubercle from all sides. Long roots that bend in the hole are trimmed a little.
3. The seedlings are not deeply buried in the soil: if the core of the bush is below ground level, the plant will die. Shallow planting leads to drying out of the bush. The sprout should be rooted so that the rosette is slightly visible from the soil.
4. Completes landing abundant watering with the addition of a natural growth stimulant (for example, HB 101), which activates immune system plants.
5. Preparation for winter involves mulching the bed and covering it with agrofibre or thick film to protect it from weeds and winter cold.

Best time to land

To plant strawberries, there must be suitable weather conditions:

• air temperature does not exceed +20…+25°С;
• air humidity up to 70-80%.

IN southern regions Garden strawberries are planted in early autumn. But if August is cool and humid enough, then planting work can begin.

Is it possible to plant different varieties next to each other?

It is better to avoid planting different varieties together, because they can get confused with each other, sending out tendrils into the neighboring bed. To avoid confusion between different varieties You can plant rows of garlic.

Planting scheme

Single-row planting is done in a bed 40 cm wide. Plants are planted in one row every 30 cm.

Two-row planting can be done on a bed at least 80 cm wide. Seedlings are rooted in 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. In this case, the strawberry bushes should be 30 cm apart from each other. Dense planting of garden strawberries leads to a decrease in the size of the berries.

Planting strawberries in a checkerboard pattern allows you to reduce the gaps between bushes without damaging the plants. On a bed 50 cm wide, seedlings are planted in 2 rows with an interval of 25 cm so that opposite the bush in one row there is a gap in the other. The distance between rows can be reduced to 30 cm.

Planting method

For planting, you can use black film with slots for seedlings or perforated dark agrofibre (spunbond). This method allows you to mulch the soil and protect plants from the germination of weeds. For the winter, planting is protected from wind, hail and low temperatures special white agrofibre.

Strawberry care

Caring for strawberries involves regular watering, fertilizing and mulching.

Watering

In August and September, strawberries are watered 2 times a month, and in October, moisture-charging watering is carried out. It is advisable to install a drip irrigation system in the beds before planting. The second method is sprinkling, that is, spraying the supplied water.

Mulching

Sawdust or hay is used to cover the soil. Planting under agrofibre does not require additional mulching.

Top dressing

Fertilizers with manganese and zinc are key elements for feeding berry crops. Also recommended foliar feeding with molybdenum and boron. Such fertilizers will not only increase productivity, but also protect plants from diseases and pests.

For the right choice mineral supplements take into account the composition of the soil. Strawberries need manganese fertilizers if the bed is located on slightly alkaline carbonate or chestnut soil. Zinc deficiency may occur on sandy and sandy loam soils. It manifests itself in the fact that strawberries often begin to get sick and their yield decreases sharply.

Discussion 0

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First of all you should choose right place. Better soil for strawberries is loamy or sandy loam - moderately or slightly sour. An excellent place for strawberries, care and cultivation is loamy chernozems, the acidity of which is neutral. Preparation of a bed for strawberries should be carried out where there is no accumulation or lack of moisture. What does it mean?

Strawberries are less responsive to fertilizer application than other berry crops. It also does not tolerate high salt content in the soil, so fertilizers should be applied before planting. It is better to pay them in advance. When planting strawberries in the spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall. If planting strawberries is planned in the fall, then prepare the soil for two weeks. When digging the soil, it is necessary to add six to eight kilograms of rotted manure or compost, if the soil is poor, the dose is doubled.

To have a good harvest, strawberry plantings must be carefully weeded, protected from pests and diseases, fed, and all tendrils on the plants must be promptly removed. If the weather is dry, strawberries need to be watered. Something special should not be missed with watering in August, when ideas are in the process of being laid and formed. flower buds for next year's harvest. The soil around the strawberry plants and between the rows is mulched with sawdust or straw. In this case, there is no need for weeding and the soil remains loose and does not evaporate moisture. Mulch protects strawberry roots from overheating and drying out in summer, and from freezing in winter.

The straw is raked to the edge of the ridge, because it will still be useful. When planting strawberries, old leaves are cut off, leaving only young and green ones. Strawberry plants and row spacing should be treated with drugs against diseases, or a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Sow the row spacing with Shrovetide radish or rapeseed. By October, a large mass of them grow green, thereby preventing weeds from growing. Late in the fall, apply this excellent fertilizer to the soil with a hoe. Before a long cold spell, strawberry bushes and row spacing are covered with leftover straw.

The main countermeasure viral diseases this is the use of healthy planting material. Strawberry plantings suffer most from leaf spot. This disease manifests itself in the second half of summer, most often on old leaves, where the fungus overwinters. Mandatory removal of affected leaves is the main treatment for this disease.

Nowadays, everyone chooses for themselves how to prepare a bed for strawberries - fertilize the plain in the old fashioned way and plant seedlings, or make a bed that is as easy to use as possible, to which you have to bend down and which is conveniently watered - from above (including watering a dozen bushes). In addition, harvesting from such a bed for strawberries is a real pleasure, in contrast to old methods, when the berries, when ripe, lay on the ground and were often surprised various types rotted before it was collected, or simply became dirty.

In addition, there is an opinion that strawberries should not be grown in one place for three years - they become smaller and lose their taste and aroma. Therefore, vertical beds for strawberries, having taken root on your site, can become a fresh trend in your experience of growing strawberries. They can even be built from barrels, if this is to your taste as a designer, or you can simply delve into the process of improving the strawberries themselves and experience various ways growing this berry - in hanging bags, in lawn pots, in flowerpots and other unusual containers adapted for strawberries, Victoria or wild strawberries. Experiment, create, create the best for strawberries and for yourself!

The paradox of this plant is that it loves moisture very much, but cannot tolerate being oversaturated with it, so beds for strawberries must be made at some elevation. The convenience of a raised ridge lies not only in the fact that it looks neat and water does not stagnate there, but also in the fact that it is convenient to remove weeds and generally care for bushes, removing excess tendrils and dried leaves.

If your soil is poorly fertile and lacks humus and humus, then you must fill the strawberry beds with humus or compost. Carrion apples can be an organic fertilizer for strawberry bushes. In fertile years there are a lot of them and the best thing you can do is put them in beds and they will turn into compost.

The amount of fertilizer required for application is determined for each individual case and depends on the fertility of the soil. On soils where fertilizers are regularly applied to the previous crops in crop rotation, and also after a single application of humus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the soil under the predecessor, strawberries produce consistently high yields. Increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers(as experience has shown) are not always appropriate. Application large quantities humus and perennial cultivation strawberries in one place contributes to the accumulation of weeds.

Such areas are unsuitable for planting industrial plantings. The middle part of the slope is most suitable for planting strawberries. But when good drainage, which provides water drainage, strawberries can also be grown at the bottom of the slope. The direction of the slope is practically irrelevant. However, on the southern slopes the snow melts much faster, which can in early spring lead to freezing of the leaves and root system. On northern slopes, snow melts more slowly, so such damage is less common.

Gardeners go to great lengths to minimize the effort they put into it while still getting the maximum yield. Such subtleties include planting strawberries in the spring under a black film. For those who are interested in this method of processing this beloved berry, it will be very useful to read this article.

Before planting strawberry bushes, dig up the beds and clear the rhizomes of the previous ones. cultivated plants and weeds, you should also destroy any larvae chafer and wireworm. After digging, level the beds with a rake and sprinkle with sand, which serves as a good preventative against slugs, centipedes, snails and other pests. After this, water generously and treat the soil with a solution of copper sulfate. To prepare the solution, dilute two tbsp in ten liters of water. spoons of copper sulfate. After this, you can plant the seedlings in the prepared soil.

I turn away the edges of the cuts, make a hole with a spatula and plant the strawberries. I carefully straighten the roots in the hole so that they are not distorted and do not curl up. Lightly sprinkle with soil and water, holding the strawberry bush so that the growth point (heart) is flush with the surface. If the growing point is too high, the roots will be exposed after the soil settles, which will lead to the bush freezing in winter. If the heart gets too much sleep, it will rot.

Strawberries, especially garden ones, are enough unpretentious plant. It is quite capable of growing and bearing fruit “savage” in almost any soil. Nevertheless, every gardener dreams of getting as much quality harvest as possible. And you need to start with proper preparation soil for planting.

Immediately select large roots, and carefully discard all plants. You can mix the top and bottom layers of soil so that the roots of the weeds from the bottom layer are on the surface, and the normal top layer is below. However, growing strawberries on agrofibre will be a more reliable weed control and does not require good physical preparation.

No less important point In preparing the soil is its moistening. Before planting, it needs to be well moistened for several days, but without fanaticism, otherwise the berry will have to be planted in a swamp. In subsequent days, the amount of watering should be reduced, maintaining humidity until the plants take root.

Before fertilizing the soil, you need to dig it up; instead of a shovel, a pitchfork is ideal for better loosening the soil. You need to start preparing the soil for planting strawberries several weeks in advance, then the soil will have time to compact. Otherwise, the strawberry rhizomes will be exposed, which is detrimental to the plant. If planting is carried out in early spring, then it is better to simply loosen the soil so as not to touch unheated layers.

The ridges are formed in the spring, shortly before planting seedlings of garden strawberries (strawberries). There is no need to rack your brains over the shape of the beds and come up with new options; a more practical one is a rectangular bed: it is convenient to maintain.

Strawberry beds are best placed in the warmest and sunniest part of the garden. Avoid lowlands, because even in late spring the soil in them can freeze, which will ruin your delicacy. There is another little secret, if you plan to make jam or otherwise prepare strawberries, but they are not fresh - choose warm ones, but not too warm. sunny places, so the berries will become very fragrant. But strawberries grown in the sun are more tasty and sweet, but not as aromatic.

After planting, water (but do not flood!) the bushes so that the soil at the roots settles a little. Then, in most cases, you don't need to do anything. But still, if you feel that your strawberries will still lack moisture, you can sprinkle the ground with a little mulch, this will prevent all the moisture from evaporating. This is done only in cases where it is very hot outside.

When planting strawberry seedlings, you need to be careful. All stems should be on the surface, while the roots should be tried to be deepened. Take your time doing this job! By covering the roots too heavily, or compacting the soil too tightly, you risk destroying them, dooming them to rot without moisture escaping. And if you don’t deepen the roots enough, they will simply dry out. Achieving the right balance when planting strawberries is important.

Another very serious problem is that agrofibre is black, given the current abnormally hot climatic conditions the earth is greatly overheated, and even more so under the black cover. Straw is better and is only needed for one season. After the end of fruiting, it is proposed to sow the bed with strawberries with oats. It manages to grow before frost, then dies, covers the strawberries with a “blanket,” collects snow, and in the spring it becomes mulch. The authors of the idea are the Bubliki spouses, they have good book"Your city. Unusual approach to familiar things. "

Probably every person who works on personal plot, at least once in my life I tried to grow strawberries. And many abandoned this idea as soon as they encountered a number of problems typical for a strawberry patch. This article will tell you how to make the process of growing strawberries easier with the help of modern technologies.

I blew up strawberries that year. firstly, the canvas broke through very quickly, and secondly, the ground underneath was just stone, although it was very soft before landing. thirdly the ground was covered green coating under this agrofibre. I don’t know what it depends on, but I realized that I won’t use it for planting anymore!

For such a bed, paths are needed not only for direct use, but also as an additional fixation of agrofibre to the ground. If there are joints in the fabrics in the garden bed, it is better to lay the path along these joints. For a rectangular bed without joints, we can recommend placing several paths diagonally.