How to make drainage around the house - options for drainage systems, design rules. Do-it-yourself drainage system around a house and dacha Drainage system around a wooden house

There are a few. But if you look into this issue, you can find out that the best option is precisely a closed drainage system.

Purpose of drainage around the house

There is one very common misconception, common to all inexperienced but rich people: drainage can easily replace foundation waterproofing. Actually this is not true! Even if the foundation is well insulated from water penetration, it still needs a drainage system in any case. To identify the reason for this, it is necessary to “get to the root” - under the house, loam and clay alternate, and the height of groundwater may differ in different seasons.

Another important factor is the height of your yard relative to the terrain. The lower this height, the more necessary drainage is around your home. This should also include precipitation and soil permeability. In short, there are a lot of such factors; it is impossible to take them all into account even before the construction of a house begins. But all of them will soon manifest themselves either in the form of moss or mold.

To avoid the adverse effects of excess moisture, drainage must be installed before the construction of the building, at the excavation stage. Regarding other methods of draining water, it’s more like eliminating holes in a sinking ship. It may be effective, but it is temporary.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

There are several drainage options, but, again, it is better to use a closed one. It is not advisable to install other types.

1. Closed drainage option. Special ones are used for it drainage pipes, it is completely safe, there is a possibility Maintenance, as well as several arrangement options.
2. Open option. IN in this case A trench is dug around the house, the depth of which will exceed the depth of the foundation. It can be narrow, but it must be sloped so that water can drain naturally. As a result, we get a certain gap in the area, which completely destroys all its attractiveness. You can decorate it with something, try to disguise it, but the likelihood that your children will fall into it is very high.
3. Zasypnaya. In principle, here is the same trench around the house, but it is covered with crushed stone on top and covered with broken bricks; if desired, it can be decorated with turf. No one can fall here, but maintenance is out of the question. If the drainage system becomes clogged, you will literally have to tear everything apart, since you will not be able to visually determine where the clog occurred.

Selection of pipes for creating drainage

After we have decided on the type drainage system, you need to select pipes.

Types of drainage pipes of domestic and foreign production

Important! It is best to use pipes with existing perforations, as this greatly simplifies installation. Therefore, they are most suitable polymer pipes, whose diameter may vary, but mostly 100-110 mm are used for drainage.

Prices for polymer pipes

polymer pipes

DIY closed drainage

Below is step-by-step technology drainage devices. It consists of several stages.

Ground measurements

First you need to determine the lowest point on your site. This is where the future trench will stretch, and here the drainage well will be located. This is because although mold in the basement is extremely undesirable, waterlogged soil in the area will not be beneficial either. If your area is flat, tall grass grows on it, or there are other types of complications, then only one thing will help you - a theodolite.

It is better to borrow this instrument from someone or rent it; buying it is not profitable.

The ditches that will be around the house should have a slope of about one centimeter per linear meter. This may seem like a lot, since water will flow down a five-millimeter slope, but in reality this is not the case. The drainage system will leak dirty water with sand, clay, so that over time a coating forms on the pipe, so a centimeter slope is just right, and even though the volume of work increases from this, at the same time the durability of the system increases.

Ditch digging, backfilling

Now you can begin installing the drainage pipes.

Installation of drainage pipes

Important! Do not forget that the pipes should be laid with an inclination towards the drain well!

Our entire drainage system must be installed using fittings. We do this before we fill the last gravel layer.

Open drain technology

Open drainage is the easiest way to protect a house from precipitation. Material costs are minimal, the work done is insignificant, but there is a danger that someone may fall into such a drainage. To work, you only need a shovel and a tape measure. We dig the perimeter of the house with an open ditch 50 cm wide and 70 cm deep, about a meter from the wall. Its walls should be at a slope of approximately 30°. Water that gets into the ditch will flow into a specially created waste pit, which can be made common to several buildings. To move water into the hole, we dig a large ditch connecting all the secondary ones.

It is advisable to fill the bottom of the ditch with crushed stone so that the water flow does not erode the soil.

Important! Open drainage is especially effective when snow melts.

If suburban area is located on a slope, then open drainage systems will effectively remove water. In this case, ditches dug across the slope will “intercept” the flowing water, after which the latter will be directed into the general channel, and then into drain hole outside the yard.

Backfill drainage technology

As mentioned earlier, to construct a backfill drainage system we will need the following materials:

• Large crushed stone;
• Gravel;
• Broken brick (instead of gravel or in combination with it).

In general, the technology of the backfill system is in many ways similar to a closed one, only pipes are not used here - instead, the ditch is half filled with crushed stone of large fractions or broken bricks. Next, gravel is poured, the finishing layer is soil with turf.

But this type of drainage gets clogged quite quickly, and it is generally very difficult to clean it. That is why backfill drainage is considered the least effective and durable. In order to at least partially correct this, it is recommended to place geotextiles between the gravel layer and the soil, or even better tecton - the walls and bottom of the ditch are covered with the material. After this, water will not be absorbed into the ground. Such waterproofing should not only completely cover the ditch, but also extend beyond it by about 0.3 meters on each side. Then broken brick or crushed stone is poured in, which is covered with the remaining edges of the material. After this, the finishing layer is laid.

When making tecton, they use modern technologies, which makes it possible to obtain a material that almost does not rot when in contact with water. And this is an excellent opportunity to increase the efficiency of such an unreliable system as backfill drainage.

Other methods of installing drainage. Foundation blind area

The foundation blind area is a strip of concrete or asphalt located around the perimeter of the entire house. It is made at an obtuse angle relative to the wall surface. It's not only effective method protecting the foundation from moisture, but also decorative element Houses. The function of the blind area is simple - to drain melt or rainwater from the foundation.

Important! If the soil on which the house is built is non-sagging and dry, or moreover, the foundation of the house is columnar, then there is no need for a blind area. In all other cases, this must be done, since a wet foundation will not last long.

What material to choose for the blind area?

For this purpose we can use one of the following materials:

• Galvanized steel sheets;
• Rubble stone;
• Asphalt;
• Clay;
• Concrete slabs;
• Brick;
• Concrete.

Of these, concrete is the most popular due to its excellent characteristics - high strength and durability. But there is another material, relatively “young” and therefore unknown to anyone - profiled PVP membranes, which perfectly insulate from moisture penetration and do not become cracked during operation.

Such a membrane is laid on the ground, and sand and crushed stone are placed on top of it. You can cover such a structure with almost anything, even a flowerbed or lawn located above it. To do this, apply another layer of turf about 20 centimeters thick on the crushed stone.

Finally, the easiest way to create drainage around your house is to take plastic pipe and cut it lengthwise into two parts. Lay the pipe cuttings along the perimeter at a slight slope directed towards the water drainage. Also for this purpose, special drainage channels are made, equipped with plastic grilles for protection.

And remember! All other drainage methods, in addition to the pre-dug pit system, are secondary. Their efficiency is an order of magnitude lower, and durability is out of the question.

Video - How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Let’s make a reservation right away: drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the water level in the area.

The danger lies both outside (precipitation, flood waters) and inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of a building from water getting inside.

But even a foundation that is well insulated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if water presses constantly, it will find weak spots in the waterproofing. And on the contrary, if you take her away in time, your home or dacha will be safe.

When a drainage system is needed:

• site location. The lower it is, the more pressing the drainage problem;
• soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
• precipitation levels in your area;
• groundwater level;
• deepening of other buildings on the site. If a nearby building has a deeply buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go and will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
• the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete paths, asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Installing drainage around the house with your own hands will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding in the area, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type includes storm drainage (storm drainage). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to remove only rain and melt water, which can cope with groundwater they can't do it.

There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.

Linear drainage

Focused on draining storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Focused on the rapid removal of water generated from local sources (for example, under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drainages are covered with decorative metal bars to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. Drainage pipes are laid from each point and connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two above-mentioned systems: point and linear drainage.

According to the method of installation, drainage can be open or closed

Open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or drainage trays.

This drainage is a trench that is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and the site.

The principle of an open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house, a bevel is made in the ditch at an angle of 30°, and a slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the desired direction.

Plus open system drainage can be called low cost and high speed performance of work. But, if a withdrawal is required large quantity melt and rain water, you will have to install a deep drainage line into which someone could fall. Unimproved ditch walls are destroyed. This system spoils appearance plot.

The service life and safety of such a system can be increased by using special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are covered with gratings on top.

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grille, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their types are presented in the photo.

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used when the area of ​​the site is small and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after installation without dismantling.

Proper drainage around a house of this type is achieved in several stages.

• a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with obligatory observance of the slope towards the drainage well;

• geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the trench;

• the trench is filled with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;

• A layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

Deep drainage

Disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil, located in lowlands and characterized by a high groundwater level.

The installation process is labor-intensive and consists of laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water drained) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for installing closed drainage

• Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two options:

1. pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing water from penetrating directly into the house.
2. located throughout the site, thus protecting the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings.

The drainage diagram around the house is shown in the photo

• Map out the location drainage ditches Location on. Typically, devices such as a laser range finder and level are used for this. But, you can make it simpler, trace where the water grooves remain after the rain - that’s where drainage trenches should be laid.

• Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in pipes.

Advice. To check the “operability” of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places of significant accumulation of water.

• Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter water from impurities that could clog the drainage pipe perforations.

Advice. If you have clay soil, geofabric is a must; if you have crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.

You can use any geotexyl, the main thing is that it allows and filters water well. It is better not to use dense needle-punched geotextiles, because... it does not pass water well.

• Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.

Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But any type of pipe must have perforation to receive water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other using a cross or tee. Material prepared for the website www.site

Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest gravel particle.

• Lead the ends of the pipe into inspection wells. Such wells are installed at all turns so that the system can be maintained. For example, clean a pipe with water pressure or evaluate changes in water level.

Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of ​​the site must converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm), which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.

Lead the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component closed system drainage

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

1. accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water is accumulated in it and then used for irrigation;
2. absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually disappears into the soil.

• Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top ground level of 200mm.
• Fill the drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
• Wrap the pipes with geotextile overlapping and secure the joints with rope.
• Fill in sand, soil and/or lay turf.

Advice. A surface drainage system (storm drainage system) can be installed on top of a closed system and also drained into a drainage well.

The finished drainage system is shown in cross-section in the photo.

Conclusion

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can only be determined by knowing the characteristics of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house whose cost of installation and operation is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must perform the role of drainage efficiently and reliably. After all, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its service life by more than 50 years.

Even the most reliable and high-quality waterproofing the foundation cannot indefinitely resist ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects in the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and to prevent the foundation from becoming a capillary pump over time and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation or, at least, reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

Most reliable way To protect the foundation from getting wet is to remove water from it through drainage. The following describes various drainage systems and provides examples of their implementation.

What is drainage and how does it work?

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a drainage pump. Waterproofing and a drainage system around the house complement each other perfectly and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As you know from a school physics course, liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always flows into a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries quite slowly. Therefore, quickly draining the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry area behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

It is not difficult to lay drainage around the house with your own hands. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to the discharge point in appropriate place, for example to a special well.

In any case, drainage pipes are installed at a slope. Ideally, the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby where water can be discharged. In a horizontal area located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it fills. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

There are two types of do-it-yourself foundation drainage for a house: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary for draining water after melting snow and rain from the surface of the soil or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected into it along the foundation area, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer pipe. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum precipitation level in the area and the area of ​​the roof that collects water.

To protect from groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally below the base of the foundation.

To save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the waste and drainage systems by organizing the drainage of roof gutters into a drainage pipe. This should not be done under any circumstances, since during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drainage water, and it actively penetrates into the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into a drainage storage tank, but always through its own separate pipe.

The drainage arrangement itself greatly depends on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sandy horizons. Heavy clay soil does not allow water to pass through well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, you will have to dig an exploration pit. On very wetlands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed using a waterproof film or even a concrete barrier in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a perforated drainage pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it due to its slope. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the home’s self-installed drainage works, and the more water is drained from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the water drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. During drainage installation, this angle must be controlled using a meter bubble level and a centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of ​​the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch has a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of soil waterlogging.

Construction of a drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. Water-permeable geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the ditch with overlapping edges. A layer of coarse sand and several centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured onto it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone.

Then it is completely covered with crushed stone and the whole thing is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and crushed stone act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is filled with a thin layer of small crushed stone and then with soil.

How to make drainage around a house with high levels of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is first installed along the outer edge of the ditch. The simplest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing felt. The depth of the ditch in this case must exceed the level of the waterproof clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, the drainage must complete a perimeter around the foundation. The drainage point is installed in the place where the pipes are most buried. As already mentioned, a storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage and drainage pipes is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point for the rain drain.

Bottom line

The drainage system around the house provides sufficient high level protection against foundation wetting. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be spared from many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

If the site is located in an area of ​​frequent moisture accumulation, then a drainage system around the house is mandatory. The drainage device will allow you to dry the soil around the perimeter. Constant exposure to water bearing structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases sharply.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. With an open location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to constructing deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

Related article:

Benefits of Open Networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for soil drainage are as follows:

• the drainage is superficial and therefore does not require labor-intensive work;
• not needed when installing channels additional elements, which allows you to avoid unnecessary expenses;
• The system is effective when used on clay soils.

Helpful information! Despite positive traits, open networks are best suited for drainage around the site. It is not recommended to install such systems near residential buildings due to their low aesthetic characteristics.

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden installation of elements, that is, after some time after completion of the work, no traces remain. You can engage in landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are poorly effective in the presence of clay soil located near the surface.

Constructing a ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to make a reliable system

When installing a drainage system around a house with your own hands, a few meters are removed from the building. At the same time, closed storm sewer pipelines can be dug in to ensure the removal of precipitation from the surface of the roof covering and paths.

DIY deep drainage around the house

The process of constructing a closed moisture drainage network is very labor-intensive, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground and then burying them. For the work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.

• The location for the drain well and the location of the pipelines are determined. It is better to dig a hole for drainage in the lowest part of the site, so as not to go too deep into the ground.
• Trenches are dug with a slope of 2 cm towards the well. Their bottom is covered with a 10-15 cm layer of sand. All irregularities made during excavation work are hidden.
• A geofabric sheet is spread over the sand. Its edges must protrude from the trench in order to make an overlap. The material is cut with a sharp knife.
• A layer of crushed stone at least 15 cm thick is poured onto the geotextile. This will allow the pipes to be positioned at a certain distance from the fabric, thereby ensuring protection against dirt getting into the perforations.
• The pipes are laid on an embankment of crushed stone and connected to each other. If there are turns from the interchange, then inspection wells must be made in these places.
• The laid pipelines are covered with crushed stone until the thickness of the layer above the elements is at least 15 cm. This is necessary to protect the side and top holes in the pipes from silting.
• The edges of the geofabric overlap with a slight overlap. The rest of the trench is filled with ordinary soil.

Note! If you are installing foundation drainage yourself on clay soils, you can additionally install point devices for collecting water.

Work to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most efficient when draining surface waters falling in the form of precipitation. They are ditches no more than 50 cm deep, located along a given trajectory. Trenches around the perimeter will spoil the appearance of the site, so decorating them is simply necessary.

The materials most often used for decoration are natural stones or brushwood. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches to form channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, no additional elements such as pipes or special membranes are used. The correct decor will allow the gutters to be successfully integrated into the overall landscape of the site.

Prices for turnkey drainage work around the house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly make drainage around the house can hire professional workers. Many companies offer a wide range of services for creating various systems from design to implementation. The table shows prices for a complete list of works.

Table 1. Average cost of drainage work.

Additional services may be offered for drainage work. They will have to be paid separately. As a rule, companies offer the work presented in the table.

Table 2. Cost of additional services for drainage work.

Note! An agreement on the installation of drainage on the site should be concluded with those companies that provide a guarantee. The minimum period of its validity should not be less than 2-3 years.

Every home owner understands that installing drainage around the house is one of the main procedures. The drainage of the house forms a protection against flooding, which will prevent subsequent deformation of the base of the house (foundation). The possibility of distortions of windows and doors is also eliminated, and any defects will not appear on the walls.

At first glance, the procedure for creating drainage around the house seems difficult, but it is possible to do it yourself. This article will answer the question: how to properly make drainage around the house?

What is drainage around the house? This is a design that removes excess moisture from the structure. This design can be arranged in different ways. But most often the system is made of pipes. The water goes through the pipes.

According to many people, one blind area around the structure is enough to create an effective catchment area. But this is wrong, because professionals insistently recommend creating an entire drainage structure that will ensure better protection from water.

There are three ways to remove water (drainage):

• Open method. In this case, open ditches are used, the depth and width of which is 50 centimeters. The drainage depth must be sufficient. This is the easiest system that you can create yourself. But the ditches appearance the area is made unpleasant. Also, after a certain period of time, the trenches crumble and can no longer be used. Therefore, they need to be further strengthened using different trays.
• Backfill method. The ditches that have been dug must be filled with crushed stone. You can also use broken bricks instead of coarse crushed stone. The top of the ditch is covered with turf. The most important advantage of this design is its huge service life. The period increases if during installation you use geosynthetics, namely geotextiles. But there are disadvantages, which are that the structure cannot be technically maintained during use, and the system also has low level bandwidth.
• Private method. In this situation, the system consists of perforated pipes that are laid inside the ground. This is the best drainage around the house, but it is difficult to do on your own; you will have to resort to the help of specialists.

The main types of drainage design

There are several types of drainage systems. Let's consider each type separately.

Wall design

The system is created around the base of the structure (foundation). Wall drainage must be installed if the building has a basement or ground floor. The installation of the wall structure must be carried out during the construction of the foundation of the building, when the foundation pit has not yet been backfilled. If mounting is carried out later, you will have to perform additional work, on which you need to spend time, effort and money.

The system is laid along the foundation. Pipes must be routed from the corners of the building to the inspection wells. At the lowest point in the system, an outlet well is created. This well will drain water beyond the boundaries of the site.

To provide additional protection for the foundation of the house, it is necessary to equip a clay castle, which should be located at a distance of 90 centimeters from the building.

Ring or trench structure

This structure is installed at a distance of two or three meters from the base of the structure. This type of drainage system is used for buildings that do not have basements or basements.

Or the building must be located on a clay soil layer.

A clay castle is also created between the base of the structure and the drainage structure for additional protection. Drainage must be laid at a depth of 50 centimeters from the lowest point of the foundation. Drains should be laid on coarse crushed stone.

Preparatory work before installation

• Before you start creating drainage around the house, you need to prepare the base of the building:
• First, it is necessary to treat the outer part of the foundation using a bitumen-kerosene primer.
• Next, you need to apply bitumen mastic.
• Then a reinforced mesh is laid in the bitumen. The cells of the reinforced mesh should be 2×2 millimeters. As soon as bitumen mastic will dry out. Its drying time is approximately 24 hours. To close reinforced mesh

, you need to apply an additional layer of coating.

Rules and nuances of creating a design The main elements of the system are specially designed drainage pipes. They are made of plastic and their maximum diameter is one hundred millimeters. If your budget does not allow you to purchase them, then you can use them as a replacement.

ordinary pipes

for sewerage. You just need to select pipes of the required diameter by making holes in them. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the gravel in which the part will be laid. Its diameter should be larger than that of the holes made. According to the experience of many people, the drainage system around the house can be done independently. To perform this procedure, you must follow

• following rules
• and nuances:
• In order to easily clean and maintain the structure during operation, inspection wells are installed at key points, as well as every ten meters.

Step-by-step instructions for installing drains

Even at the site design stage, it is necessary to consider the drainage system. Such a plan will help determine the exact location of perforated pipes, as well as carry out calculations necessary materials and components. Let's look at the step-by-step instructions:

• We mark the site according to the prepared plan. A drainage plan around the house must be prepared. It is necessary to identify the highest and lowest points on the earth's surface. This must be known to cover the entire area.
• Next, you need to dig ditches of the required depth. The width of the ditch must be such that it can accommodate perforated or sewer pipes and large crushed stone.
• Then you need to organize the slope of the structure. Take measurements of the height differences, after which you should set the poles at the required points. You need to carefully add sand to the bottom of the ditch until the required slope is formed.
• The bottom of the ditch must be compacted. After which it is necessary to fill in ten centimeters of crushed stone, then leveling is carried out again. Next, the bottom of the trench must be lined with geotextiles, from the top of which a layer of gravel must be laid. We need to control the slope. Next, prepare the indentation small size to lay perforated pipes.
• Perforated elements are laid on the prepared area, after which they should be tightly connected.
• Do not forget to check the selected pipeline slope. The test is carried out using a rope that is stretched along the ditch. Then it is produced
• installation of inspection wells. If the pipes do not have filtration material attached, they must be wrapped with geotextiles
• , and fastening is carried out using polypropylene tape. The structure is backfilled with large gravel.
• The width of this layer should be 20 centimeters. The pipes must be led to the inspection well.
• Water will flow from it into ditches.

The filtration layer must be wrapped with geotextile. In this case, you need to make a small overlap. The final stage of the procedure is backfilling the drainage system river sand

. To make everything look aesthetically pleasing, the sand also needs to be compacted.

Manholes An inspection well is necessary to maintain and clean the drainage structure. Without a well, the system will gradually become clogged and eventually become unusable.

It is possible to purchase a ready-made component on the construction market, or you can create it yourself using a piece of plastic pipe of the required diameter. The inspection well should be so wide that a person’s hand can reach down there to clean the drainage system.

At the point of the drainage structure, which is the lowest, it is necessary to install a well for catchment. The most popular structures are those made of reinforced concrete. The depth of the inspection well should be such that the sand at the bottom does not interfere with the water flow. Only occasionally does cleaning need to be done.

Construction materials and tools

As with any procedure, construction tools and materials will be needed to create a drainage system. The first construction tool is a shovel, which is used to dig ditches. Next main component- These are plastic pipes that will drain water.

You will need inspection wells, a specially designed hacksaw for metal elements. We need transport that will transport large crushed stone; we also need a thermal insulator, namely geotextiles. On this insulation pipes are being laid. And you will need a small amount of sand.

Cost of work

The price depends on the materials you will use for installation. If you need to equip a drainage system on summer cottage, then you can use available materials, for example, boards, slate, stones, remains of bricks.

If your house is made of brick or wood, then in this case it is necessary to use materials that have a higher price, for example, plastic pipes, metal communications.

The total cost also includes thermal insulation, which must be taken care of. The best heat insulator for drainage is geotextiles; if this is not available, then you can use ordinary rags or humus.

Thanks to this, the structure will not freeze during the winter season.

Bottom line Well-prepared drainage around the house can provide protection for the building from groundwater that carries with it negative consequences . Drainage around the foundation becomes most necessary when it comes to protecting basement

from the flood. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house various types suitable type, which is suitable specifically for your conditions and soil cover. Prepare a plan for future installation.

The work should preferably be carried out at the stage of construction of the building’s foundation. During installation, you must follow a clear algorithm of actions. Each type of drainage uses its own materials. So, for example, if the system is located under a road where vehicles move, metal elements will be needed for installation.

For garden plot You can use publicly available construction tools and materials. It is best to use geosynthetics, namely geotextiles, as a heat insulator. If this is not possible, then you can use ordinary rags.

Specialists will do the job without problems and with high quality, observing every rule and nuance, but if you try, you can do everything yourself. You will be satisfied with the result, your room will be comfortable and protected from negative influence groundwater. Now you know how to make drainage around your house with your own hands.