Insulation of a country house. How to insulate a dacha for winter living video

Country houses, originally intended only for summer living, often begin to be used in winter. In this case, the question arises of how to ensure a comfortable room temperature during the cold season. It is impossible to do without thermal protection work here.

Insulation country house- this is a whole complex of measures for insulating different parts of the building structure, which make it possible to equip it for winter accommodation.

Choice of insulation

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of thermal insulation. If you have basic construction skills, correct selection insulation and knowledge of technology, most activities can be done with your own hands.

The modern market provides buyers a wide range of materials that will help with high-quality insulation country house ik. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The key indicators that influence which insulation you should choose are thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, durability, and fire safety.

Several groups of thermal insulation materials can be distinguished:

1. mineral wool;
2. cellulose;
3. polystyrene.

Each of the above groups deserves detailed consideration.

Often referred to simply as mineral wool, it is an inorganic fiber, usually made from porphyrite. Between the fibers lies air gap, occupying about 95% of the total volume.

The advantages of mineral wool are its high heat and sound insulation qualities, durability, environmental friendliness, and fire safety. The main disadvantage is low resistance to moisture.

Cellulose insulation is made from recycled cellulose. The main advantages of the material are its low thermal conductivity coefficient and the ability to fill hard-to-reach places for insulation; it fits well into any small cavities and gaps. Installation is carried out by spraying, manual or mechanized laying, backfilling. Typically, such materials contain antiseptic and fire-retardant impurities, which makes them reliable in case of fire and resistant to rodents and insects.

Among the disadvantages of cellulose insulation are:

• severe shrinkage over time;
• when applied wet method All metal elements structures must be coated with paint or varnish, since due to the long drying time of the material, corrosion may begin;
• high final cost of the thermal insulation system, since high-quality insulation requires a large number of insulation.

Polystyrene thermal insulators

Polystyrene insulation, the main representative of which is polystyrene foam, are granules filled with air. Due to this, the materials retain heat well. The granules have a cellular structure and therefore practically do not allow moisture to pass through. Expanded polystyrene is produced in the form of slabs, which are very light and easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of this group of insulation materials is their instability to high temperatures, and, as a result, a fire hazard.

What's better?

The most competent solution to the question of which material to choose is the combined use of several types of insulation in different parts of the building structure.

Mineral wool should be used for thermal insulation of structures that are not subject to constant loads. Cellulose ones are better suited for insulating facades, roofs, and floors, while polystyrene ones are better suited for foundations and basements.

The arrangement of a thermal insulation system for a country house includes insulation of floors, walls, ceilings, doorways and windows. Each of these events has its own characteristics.

The sequence of these operations is not fundamentally important and is determined based on individual characteristics Houses. For example, if the walls are insulated from the inside, then they are first insulated, and then work with the floor and ceiling.

Working with wall surfaces

It is preferable to do the insulation of walls with your own hands from the outside, because in this case the interior space of a country house, which is often not spacious enough anyway, does not undergo any changes. Before applying the thermal insulation coating directly, the surfaces are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt and treated with protective solutions against insects and rodents.

Also, layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier are pre-created. After completing these steps, a frame is installed, the pitch between the slats is about 50 centimeters. Thickness itself frame structure should be 2-5 centimeters larger than the layer of insulation being laid to ensure a ventilation gap.

Selected thermal insulation material placed directly between the racks and covered with a film on the outside to protect against external factors.

To fix the insulation, special dowels are used. After the installation of the thermal insulation layer is completed, the walls are covered with facing material, for example, siding.

Floor

When insulating an already used country house, the old floor covering is completely removed. This must be done to ensure uniform distribution of the thermal insulation material, regardless of whether the work is carried out by builders or with their own hands.

After laying the beams, a heat insulator is laid. It is preferable to use cellulose insulation, but you can also choose expanded polystyrene. The finished thermal insulation layer is sheathed with new boards, then the floor covering is laid.

Thermal insulation of the roof and ceiling using mineral wool

In the absence of properly insulated roofing structure Insulating a country house is practically useless. After all, according to the laws of physics warm air strives to the top.

You can choose mineral wool to insulate your roof or ceiling. This lightweight material, which does not create significant loads on structures. At the same time, it fills all cavities well without letting heat out. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use safety glasses or a mask.

If the attic is not used for living, you can limit yourself to thermal insulation of the ceiling. Insulation boards are laid in the space between the ceiling beams on the attic side on a previously laid vapor barrier layer. The width of the mineral wool fragments should be slightly greater than the distance between the beams. Any gaps left after installation should be filled. polyurethane foam. Then a layer of waterproofing is attached to the beams using self-tapping screws.

When arranging the exploited attic space The main efforts for thermal insulation are transferred to the insulation of the roof itself. The role of the frame in in this case will serve as load-bearing beams.

It is important to consider that before laying mineral wool, it is necessary to lay a layer waterproofing material, on top of which insulation is installed.

As with thermal insulation of the ceiling, all cracks remaining after laying the insulation must be sealed with foam. Then, using a stapler, a vapor barrier layer, such as glassine, is attached to the mineral wool. For reliable fixation, the entire structure is secured using counter slats or a profile.

Insulation of door and window openings

Thermal insulation of doorways and windows largely depends on the characteristics of the doors and window structures used. If the entrance door is made independently, then the space between the outer and inner layers must be filled with insulation, similar to the insulation of walls.

Also important point When thermally insulating openings, it is necessary to ensure tightness between the walls and the door and window frames themselves. For these purposes, it is recommended to use special sealants and putties.

Summing up

It is quite possible to carry out work on insulating a country house yourself. But this process needs to be taken seriously. After all, if you skip the smallest details, you may encounter the problem of moisture accumulation in the insulation or initiate the process of rotting wooden structures. If everything is done correctly in accordance with the technology, then you can ensure comfort and coziness in your dacha for many years.

Many people want to use their country house not only in winter, so the owners provide heating in the room. If this is not done, then in the cold season the house will be no warmer than a summerhouse. But even if you spent a lot on modern heating, it is possible that you will freeze and pay fabulous sums on bills if the house is not properly insulated. In order for heating to be effective and economical, proper insulation of a country house will be required. You can do it yourself, and you will save half the money.

Always up to 30% of heat loss occurs through the walls of the house

Heat loss at home can be colossal and unjustified, and always up to 30% of heat loss occurs through the walls of the house. You can fight the problem both from the inside and from the outside.

Entire separate books can be devoted to the topic of insulating a dacha from the outside. This is the most extensive of all means of insulating a dacha, and the most expensive method. Insulating a house from the outside cannot be done using improvised means. Yes, and you should choose a technology based on the recommendations of the master, since many nuances should be taken into account: what is the material of the house - timber, logs, what is the thickness of the walls, etc.

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are used as insulation.

These materials have long been known and are the most affordable. However, today there are other, more modern and expensive ones on the market. Choose according to your taste, but do not forget that even the old-fashioned materials for thermal insulation of a dacha give excellent results.

How to insulate a country house from the outside:

• We create a sheathing frame.
• We carry out antiseptic treatment of walls.
• We install insulation.
• We install protection on the insulation - vapor barrier, wind barrier.
• We install another frame for finishing.
• Completes the finishing of the house - for example, plastering, painting or sheathing with siding.

How to insulate a country house from the inside

In order to understand how to insulate a house, country house, it is important to decide on the sequence of steps. The first thing to start with when insulating a dacha from the inside is to eliminate the reasons for cooling the house. Inside the house we have walls, floor, ceiling, windows and doors. The most extensive is the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside. This is done with mineral wool; you can also purchase modern insulation boards, they will be more expensive, but will not be more practical.

Please note that interior lining will take up some of the space in the room.

The algorithm for insulating walls from the inside is similar to the same process that we considered for external walls:

• The frame is made of wood or a profile.

• We lay mineral wool.
• We protect the insulation with insulation - there can be a lot of options here, each master has his own opinion. You can use OSB sheet, drywall, tiles, clapboard, etc. Depending on what the finishing will be, the protection and method of processing the structure are selected.

Windows and doors are a quarter of heat loss in a country house

That much, or even up to 30%, of heat escapes through uninsulated doors and windows of a country house. What to do with the doors so that they stop being a source of cold?

• Old doors need to be lined with felt around the perimeter or use modern rubber covering, which can be bought at any store.
• Insulation itself will help correct the situation door leaf, because if the door is metal, it itself is a source of cold. To make the door warm, use wooden beams, install 2-3 of them across the door with through bolts, the leaf itself is sheathed with foam plastic, and on top of the structure is covered with an OSB sheet, which we fasten with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure is up to 6 cm wide, which makes it possible to retain heat and prevent cold from entering the house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a dacha includes solving the issue not only with the entrance, but also with interior doors, especially if the dacha has low heating utility rooms. To prevent the cold from spreading from them, also place a seal between door frame and the wall, install a special seal at the bottom of the door to block the flow of cold air from there. Curtain the cold door with a thick curtain! It's cheaper than insulating it, but quite effective.

Install a special seal at the bottom of the door to block the flow of cold air

Having finished with the doors, it's time to move on to the windows. If you are ready to spend a substantial budget on a warm country house or are just building your own country house, you can install modern energy-efficient windows, and then this issue will be closed. The glass in old windows can also be replaced with warmer glass. However, in many country houses the windows are old, wooden, and replacing them is not part of the owners’ plans. Then insulating a country house means transforming old windows.

What you can do:

• Replace broken glass. If there are cracks and you cannot replace the glass, seal the cracks with regular tape. But keep in mind that the tape will only stick if the window is not frozen yet.
• To eliminate drafts, you can use modern sealants and new glazing beads, this way we will insulate the joints between the glass and the frame. The final stage requires painting the frame.
• The perimeter of the frame should be covered with insulation or foam rubber. The first can be used only as long as the temperature outside the window is not below zero, otherwise it will not last very long.
• If drafts do penetrate into the house, we eliminate them using polyurethane foam, after which we carry out plastering and painting. All this will become an additional method of sealing, insulating your window. If in modern ways It is expensive to use, you can resort to old and cheaper means, namely using foam rubber, crumpled paper in places where the windows are leaky, gluing the top with tape and paper.
• If your windows have double frames, line them inside with pieces of cotton wool, foam rubber or wads of paper.

By taking these measures, you will achieve the effect that the windows will stop blowing. There is a more radical way: using cling film and a furniture stapler, “sew up” the entire frame from the inside. This method, of course, will damage aesthetics, but if warmth is more important than beauty, it will be very effective. Don’t forget about textiles: thick curtains can also remove some heat loss.

An uninsulated floor “eats” 15% of the heat

The walls, doors and windows are insulated. But there is also gender. It is the cold floor that causes colds, because frozen feet are a direct ticket to sick leave. In addition, it will be completely uncomfortable in a house with a cold floor.

If you do not act radically by completely insulating the floor, limit yourself to sealing the joints between the floor and the baseboard.

It is rational to use strips of foam flora; we place its foil edge inside, attach the strip itself so that it slightly extends onto the wall, and the other end lies on the floor. By taking such simple measures, you can feel that the floor will become noticeably warmer.

Continuous thermal insulation is, of course, more practical. Both foam flooring and polystyrene foam are used here. It is worth choosing a material of high density. The foam should be placed on the screed, and then the frame should be placed under the floor covering. Insulation is carried out by installing a wooden frame with a convenient spacing of beams, inside which foam plastic is tightly placed. Density is very important to prevent cold bridging.

The structure can be covered with boards or OSB sheets, and the floor can be finished on top using the method you choose.

Don't avoid carpets! They can not only add coziness, but also make the floor warmer!

Another 15% of the heat flies into the uninsulated ceiling!

After all the operations performed on the walls, windows, doors, and floors, the house will become much warmer, but warm air, according to the laws of physics, will rise upward, and it is necessary that it not be met there cold ceiling and roof, which can reduce the efforts made to almost nothing. To prevent this from happening, the ceiling should be insulated.

This step solves two problems at once - it prevents the penetration of cold from the outside and the escape of heat from the inside. If the insulation is done correctly, the country house will become like a kind of thermos that will maintain a comfortable temperature.

The easiest way is to insulate the ceiling. It is more expensive to insulate the roof in the attic. You may well not do this, because previously the roofs of peasant houses were not insulated. Experts believe that such insulation is only necessary if the house has a second residential floor. If not, it is more advisable to think about how to insulate the ceiling in a dacha inexpensively, without spending money on insulating the roof.

To insulate the ceiling in a dacha, you will first need to sheathe the surface with a frame.

Both wood and profile are used depending on preferences and further plans for decorative finishing. It is rational to make a frame around the perimeter of the room from a profile, reinforcing it with transverse bars. Insulation will be laid between them and they will also be the basis for finishing ceiling, for laying drywall.

You should lay the insulation on the ceiling carefully, protecting your eyes from getting mineral wool.

If you use foam plastic, then you should choose one that is quite dense - PSB-S 25 is optimal. Polystyrene foam is more economical, but it will be even more effective to use polystyrene foam boards with a milled edge: these are laid overlapping, there will be no gaps between the slabs, and heat will not evaporate. Having laid the insulation, we install a vapor barrier and complete the decorative lining of the ceiling.

Even by spending relatively little money, you can insulate country house with your own hands. In any case, go ahead, windows insulated with paper and insulating textiles on the doors are already plus 3-4 degrees in the room! Well, if you spent money on an insulating inner layer on the walls or made a similar outer layer, then you can proudly say that you were able to adequately insulate the house!

And here is the promised example of how to insulate a country house with your own hands.

Click on the first photo and scroll with the right or left arrows on your keyboard.

For many years, city residents have associated a garden house with a small summer building, which is assembled from scrap materials. With the advent of inexpensive building materials developers have the opportunity to quickly build inexpensive housing that is suitable for recreation in summer time. And in order for a small country house to be warm even in the winter cold, it is worth thinking about decent insulation and heating garden house.

The need to insulate a garden house

As is known, the main purpose garden house lies in the formation of a recreational environment, that is, the creation of life-support conditions in nature that are close to those at home, for the effective implementation of the plans. Many gardeners extend their gardening season until late autumn, and even in winter they willingly come to ski and relax.

But such a pastime will often be impossible and here’s why. Country garden houses, as a rule, have very simple design- frame made of wooden beams, which is lined with clapboard. The inside of the house is finished with plywood, which in turn is covered with wallpaper. If you have not created proper thermal insulation in your summer garden house, it will be very difficult to maintain winter time there is warmth in such a structure, since the internal space between the cladding is not filled with anything.

You may disagree and choose the option of warming with a temporary stove. However, in this case, you should remember that this will not last long. Open fire lovers need to know that the coefficient useful action for fireplaces it is low, it is only 10%, so it won’t be possible to heat up anyway. The warmth will be temporary, and a brick house will have to be heated for a day or two even for a short time. Therefore, you still have to think about thermal insulation. And yet, insulating a garden house yourself is not particularly difficult.

Since the need for living space in winter will be less than in summer, in order to economically use thermal insulation and building materials, as well as save fuel on heating, it is not possible to insulate the entire house. In a garden house, it is enough to insulate one or two rooms, depending on the building area and the composition of the family. It's good if there is brick stove in the garden house.

Only in this case is it possible in early spring, in late autumn and winter, spend weekends and slowly redo all the upcoming work, for which it was not possible to find time during the busy gardening chores summer period. Before you move on to practice, remember that it is recommended to carry out all thermal insulation work when it is summer. If the dacha is two-story, or the living area of ​​one floor is too large, it is also worth thinking about water heating.

Selection of materials

The most practical insulation materials are glass wool, polystyrene foam, foam rubber, penoizol and fibreboards. You can insulate the walls of stone or brick houses using bulk materials that are placed between double walls or use the latest liquid thermal insulation material for the walls. However, the materials that our grandparents used are not far behind them.

Industrial insulation

Industrial insulation materials are most often used to insulate a garden house. Mineral insulation requires insulation from moisture. These include mineral wool and fiberglass. Mostly mineral insulation is used to protect floors and facades from the cold.

Mineral wool has been used in construction for many years in a row, it has proven itself in the best possible way, since it does not shrink, maintaining its own technical specifications at a high level for decades. This material It gained its popularity due to the ease of installation and low price.

Cellulose insulation materials are mainly represented by ecowool, which is used to insulate facades, roofs and floors of country houses. Polystyrene materials or expanded polystyrene are needed for insulating roofs and facades, and they are also necessary for insulating foundations. You can insulate a garden house with such materials from the outside and from the inside.

Available materials

You can prepare some materials yourself. They are not inferior to mineral ones and have been found wide application in individual construction, organic insulation materials, such as sawdust, reeds, moss, and sedge. You can add to them a whole list of insulating materials: chaff, straw, hay, small wood shavings, peat chips and others. In different regions of our country, there is still a lot of “underground” insulation known. Large material must first be crushed, for example, chopped with an ax.

You can make the insulation material yourself from improvised materials that gardeners always have. This polyethylene film and old newspapers. To insulate a garden house in this way, a film is placed between sheets of newspaper and ironed. The resulting heat-insulating material is usually pasted onto the walls under the wallpaper.

Requirements for insulation

For mineral insulation(mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam), as well as small wood shavings, sawdust and moss, the thickness of the backfill should be at least 10 centimeters, and you can count on an outside air temperature of up to minus 20 degrees, if one indispensable condition is met - a windproof outer cladding. For more porous insulation of an organic nature, the thickness of the backfill should increase to 13-15 centimeters.

Mineral insulation materials must be compacted so much that after pressing on them by hand, the material returns to its original position. If the heat insulation is in mats, it should not be loosened. Small shavings and sawdust are compacted until compact. Hay, straw, sedge, reeds, large wood shavings It is customary to start by chopping, chopping with an ax, and the smaller the component parts, the better.

If you are interested in how to properly insulate a garden house and spend a minimum Money, please pay attention to the following information. To save expensive thermal insulation material and money, you can simultaneously use mineral and organic insulation, laying them as layered cake, it is especially useful to do this in those structures where it is necessary to fill them to their full thickness, for example, when insulating a floor or in an interfloor ceiling. Layer the best insulation It is recommended to lay on the side of the cold source.

Remember that before use any material must be completely dry, otherwise it will lose its thermal insulation properties, and organic insulation will also rot with all the ensuing inconveniences and troubles.

Insulation of a garden house

The pressure of the warm internal air in a garden house is always higher than the cold external air, which is why the warm air strives to escape into the street. As you know, heat loss in any building, in particular in a garden house, occurs through the floor, ceiling and walls. Uncomfortable conditions occur if the difference between the temperature in the building and the surface temperature of the walls is more than 6 degrees, and the difference between the temperature of the air and the floors is 4 degrees. The best thermal comfort will be provided with a temperature difference of 3 degrees. We have figured out the reasons for heat loss, now it’s time to figure out how to insulate a garden house.

Insulation of the floor and foundation

The thermal comfort of a garden house will largely depend on the design of the floor. More often they represent one row of boards that are laid on logs; linoleum, chipboard, and fiberboard are laid on the boards. Such floors are a common basis for furniture, but not an element of thermal insulation. Extreme cold penetrates from the ground through these floors. The cold floor makes your feet freeze, and even heat air cannot save from this, since the temperature below is always lower than at ceiling level.

If the house is built on strip foundation, which is continuous in nature, then in the base, most likely, there are vents - special holes that are made to ventilate the space under the building. Such vents should be closed without fail. You can cover them with a piece of insulation, polystyrene foam or an unnecessary rag. It is important to open such outlets in the spring.

Nowadays, summer residents often buy garden houses ready-made. They bring a similar structure to the site, place it on posts that act as a foundation, conduct electricity - and you can safely celebrate a housewarming party. But it is worth noting that the floor space in this case remains completely open. Therefore it needs to be closed. And this can be done by making a pile.

Nail iron, rubber sheets or boards to the bottom of the house around the perimeter. Then cover it all with soil. An air cushion will eventually form under the building, which will prevent cold from penetrating through the floors. In spring, it is customary to remove the earth or make vents using, for example, pieces of plastic pipes that have a large diameter. Suitable are those used for in-house sewer systems.

To insulate the floor in a self-built garden house, the floor should be disassembled. You can use any available materials. Floor insulation is most often done in layers. In order for the floor to be warm and dry, the underground must be torn off from the ground. If the soil is dry and the groundwater level is low, limit yourself to plank flooring laid on joists. The supports will be low brick columns that are waterproofed with two layers of roofing felt on bitumen mastic.

Brick columns should rest on a preparation layer of lean concrete. Under it there should be a waterproofing layer of clay, which has been previously kneaded with water, which will protect the floor structures and underground from ground dampness. Below is compacted soil. A floor of this design serves for a long time without being affected by fungus and moisture.

Often, summer residents recommend insulating a garden house on the ground like this. Pour a layer of crushed stone, sand on top and compact this mass tightly. Place a layer of thermal insulation on top. Then it is customary to place material for waterproofing and a mesh for thermal insulation, after which you can safely pour the concrete screed.

When the groundwater level is high, when insulating the floor in a garden house, it is customary to raise it above the ground by at least half a meter. In this case, the floor should be made double, with a heat insulator. As part of this option, summer residents do the following: a subfloor (an old finished floor is perfect for this purpose), a layer of thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool) and a new finished floor. The space between the subfloor and the finished floor must be ventilated; for this purpose, ventilation holes are made in the clean floor - in the corners of the rooms.

An important step in warming a garden house is protecting the basement, if there is one, and the foundation. The choice of thermal insulation material for the foundation should be approached more carefully; you need to buy quality material, because it will affect both the thermal insulation of the building and the safety and durability of supporting structures. Insulate all areas of the foundation, sparing no material, because this way you can save up to 40% of the lost heat.

Insulation of floors

Roof insulation has great importance, because almost 10% of the heat escapes through the roof. When choosing insulation for the roof, you need to be guided by climatic conditions, the presence of snow and wind loads. Remember that the materials must be durable, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, non-toxic, and it is important that the heat insulator does not shrink.

Application when insulating the roof of a summer house polymer materials will not be the best rational decision, because they are characterized by increased flammability properties, and you will need to take serious measures to increase fire safety the buildings. Following from all of the above, it is advisable to use stone wool for roof insulation.

IN attic floors It is usually customary to limit ourselves to installing a vapor barrier layer, because the roof is most exposed to moisture in the form of precipitation. When the insulation is moistened, air is forced out of its pores and replaced with water. An increase in the humidity of a heat insulator by at least 10% provokes a two-fold decrease in heat-protective performance!

Frozen water worsens the properties of insulation even more. That is why, when insulating a garden house, you need to pay attention to the installation of a reliable vapor barrier. The cheapest and easiest way is to make a vapor barrier layer from soaked clay in water. Clay-straw lubricant, which has a thickness of 20-25 millimeters, is applied directly on top of the ceiling boards.

Moss can be used as a thermal insulation material for the floors of garden houses. It is resistant to rotting, perfectly absorbs water vapor and dries instantly. Moss, unlike other materials, does not cake over time and does not lose its thermal insulation properties. Buildings that are insulated with moss will always be dry and there will be no musty smell. To avoid damaging the thermal insulation material, from above ceiling beams They nail down walking boards that are about 40-50 centimeters wide.

Wall insulation

Methods for insulating garden houses vary depending on the design. The very first method is external insulation; the so-called “pie” includes several layers: insulation, which is attached to load-bearing structure, a reinforcing mesh based on an adhesive composition and actually two layers of plaster. The second option: the heat-insulating material is attached using anchors with a hinge, then a welded stainless steel mesh is placed, and a thick layer of plaster is placed for verification.

You can insulate the walls of a garden house using curtain facades. The idea of ​​such a design is very simple - between thermal insulation material and a rain screen ( outer side facade) there is an air gap that allows moisture and water vapor to freely escape into the street, preventing the appearance of fungus and mold. Stone wool insulation is best suited for this purpose.

The greatest effect from the procedure of insulating a dacha will be obtained when cladding the walls with inside sheet material- hardboard or plywood laid on a crate of wooden slats. Create a space between “new” and brick wall glass wool, or cover it with tightly compacted sawdust, nailing the boards horizontally. It is recommended to “wrap” a log house with mineral wool and cover it with siding or clapboard.

You can use insulation material in any combination. Eg, bottom part walls, where the boards are located vertically, can be conveniently insulated with non-free-flowing materials that can be compacted well in any direction (glass wool, mineral wool, moss, sedge, reeds, hay, straw, hay), and the upper part, where the boards are placed horizontally, can be protected from the cold and bulk materials (small shavings, sawdust).

Such a wall will quickly warm up due to its low mass, while boards that are too thick, despite all the advantages that seem at first glance, have worse thermal properties. Heating them up comfortable temperature in cold weather it will require large amounts of heat. And one more mandatory condition when insulating a garden house is that the outer walls must be windproof.

To ensure that the walls are not blown through, it is enough to place some kind of material under the outer cladding. dense material, be it thick paper, cardboard, roofing felt, roofing felt, glassine or plastic film. A cladding made from tongue-and-groove or quarter boards cannot be considered windproof; even if it is tightly fitted, cracks will still appear, because the boards have defects and are subject to warping and shrinkage.

And to prevent rodents from getting into your garden house, which like to settle in any insulation without disdaining glass wool, the work should be done carefully, without cracks. Reliable protection from uninvited guests is a lining made of roofing felt. After that, think about arranging the stove in garden house do it yourself or install a compact gas boiler.

Insulation of windows and doors

Don’t forget to finally insulate the entrance door and windows through which the most heat is lost. The windows in garden houses are mostly wooden, which require some preparation before the cold weather. The tree is excellent material, but over time it warps, warps, it dries out, and the paint peels off. As a result, cracks appear and the cold penetrates through them.

A dacha with uninsulated wooden windows can be heated for a long time, and it will still be cold. The house will eventually warm up, but if the heater power is reduced, or if you don’t add more wood to the stove, it will immediately become cold again. And the reason for this is the drafts that penetrate from these cracks in the windows and take away the heat. Therefore, the issue of thermal insulation of windows begins with a tight fit of the frames. Be sure to inspect where the windows meet the walls.

Check to see if there is leakage from the gap between the frame and the glass, and if you notice a “leakage,” then simply replace the glazing beads. In autumn it is also recommended to seal windows. You can follow your grandmother's advice and do it the old-fashioned way: with paper glued to a paste - a solution of flour and water. You can buy it in construction stores duct tape, which also fits well.

If there are large gaps between the frame and the window sashes, it is better to pierce them with cotton wool before gluing. And in order to minimize window heat loss, it is recommended to install metal plastic windows with two- or three-layer glazing, as well as use glass with energy spraying and caulk all cracks.

It’s good if the garden house has a vestibule; in other words, the front door is separated from the living space by another door. In this case, there should be no strong drafts or cold bridges from the street. But still front door in the dacha, regardless of whether there is a vestibule in front of it or not, it is recommended to cover it with insulation. To insulate a door, place between its walls insulation material, as well as the jambs and door joint, cover with insulation.

The simplest thermal insulation material will do, the one that is sold as a set of dermantine, foam rubber and decorative nails. The cost of such a set is not too high. Everything will cost you a couple of hundred rubles. But an insulated door will help the owners save more than one kilowatt of electricity on heating.

On the eve of winter, many are wondering how to insulate a country house for winter living. Here we will try to analyze all modern and traditional methods and technologies.

Why is thermal insulation needed and why should you not neglect it?

If you have decided to break away from the bustle of the city and spend the winter in your own country house, you need to thoroughly prepare it. Installation heating system should not be the only event. Good thermal insulation of a country house will help to significantly increase energy efficiency and significantly save on heating costs. In addition, living in a properly insulated house will be much more comfortable. The absence of drafts and cold walls is also more beneficial for health.

What is better to choose

Basically, the choice is between two main methods of insulation: external and internal. Ideally, the building should be treated both outside and inside, but in order to save money, you can limit yourself to just one. The choice largely depends on climatic conditions, already existing finishes, chosen heating method and structure, available funds. So, if interior spaces already fully completed and new renovation While there is no opportunity or desire to do this, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. Accordingly, you should act in the opposite case.

However, external finishing is more difficult to install, often more expensive, and the possibility of installation is highly dependent on weather conditions. This makes it less suitable for cases where work needs to be done in short time. You can insulate your dacha from the inside, even if the cold weather has already set in.

External thermal insulation

First of all, when deciding how to insulate a country house, you should think about insulating the walls outside. The most common insulating materials for exterior use are foam or polystyrene foam boards and basalt wool. Today, the building materials market offers a lot of other materials, but these are the easiest to use, affordable and time-tested. Mineral wool is usually placed under the siding; expanded polystyrene panels can also be covered with siding, or covered with plaster and various decorative coatings. Today these methods exterior finishing most popular.

If the house itself is wooden, then before starting any work it must be treated with special compounds that increase the moisture resistance of the wood and reduce the fire hazard, as well as with an antiseptic!

To compare these materials, consider approximate diagram installation of both:

Siding installation

To finish facades with siding panels, a sheathing is first constructed from metal profiles or wooden blocks. The resulting chambers are filled with the selected insulation. It would be good if there were no gaps. Decorative panels and other necessary elements are fixed on top.

When working with glass wool, be sure to use a respirator and protective gloves!

Installation of polystyrene boards

Internal thermal insulation

Internal insulation of the room is also carried out by laying heat-insulating materials under the decorative coating. Due to the fact that indoor conditions are much softer, the choice of materials and finishing methods is much greater. As with external thermal insulation, the same insulating materials are suitable for insulating a dacha from the inside: mineral wool, foam or polystyrene panels and others. You can also use blow-in insulation.

Installation of the frame structure also begins with the processing of the walls themselves, depending on what they are made of. Be sure to treat the walls with a special anti-mold compound. When erecting such structures, it is not necessary to level the walls; this will help significantly save time and materials. After erecting the frame, a layer of foamed foil vapor barrier film should be laid. It also has heat-reflecting properties. If the wall is wooden, then the film can be attached with ordinary nails, but construction or furniture stapler will help save a lot of time and effort. Then the heat-protective material itself is laid directly, which is sewn up on top fiberboard sheets, chipboard, OSB panels, plasterboard sheets, MDF panels or other materials. This kind of multi-layer sandwich helps to conserve heat in the room.

It is imperative to first insulate those walls that are in contact with the street. Unheated premises, such as balconies or verandas, it is permissible not to provide such thermal insulation if they will not be used in winter, but it is worth paying attention to the walls adjacent to such rooms. The layer of insulating material for them can be chosen thinner if the veranda is warm enough. There is no point in insulating partitions and walls inside the house itself, except perhaps to increase sound insulation. Insulation of the external premises adjacent to the house will allow them to be used during the cold season and will increase the efficiency of heating the entire house.

Window insulation

When figuring out how to insulate a country house, you should never forget about the windows. Gaps, improper installation, and poor-quality sealing can also cause heat loss. Of course, modern plastic windows with multi-chamber double-glazed windows filled with inert gases are the most effective. But it is not always possible to spend a decent amount of money on replacing them. And sometimes new ones could use some “upgrade”.

Plastic windows

At correct installation they should not require repairs for many years. However, it doesn’t hurt to inspect the places where they connect to the wall. Pay attention to whether there is a draft around the edges. Where it exists, the voids should be filled with polyurethane foam. The slopes should be repaired externally and internally. May need to be replaced rubber seals on opening doors.

Wooden windows

For quality repairs wooden windows you will need:

• Silicone sealant (if you take it in a special tube, you will need a glue gun);
• Polyurethane foam;
• Small spatula;
• Masking tape;
• Seal;
• Unnecessary newspapers, magazines or film;
• Plaster;
• Nails (small, you can take furniture ones) and a hammer.

If there are broken or cracked glasses, it is better to replace them. This also applies to glazing beads. First, remove all old caulking, loose pieces of plaster and cement from the cracks between the frame and the wall and from under the flashings and sills.

Before filling the holes with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to protect the glass and the surfaces surrounding the window opening with paper or film, securing it with masking tape. It leaves no marks on various surfaces and can be easily removed even from wallpaper. Carefully place a small amount of foam into the gaps. Keep in mind that its volume will increase several times during the day, so you should not add too much of it. After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, you can remove the protective tape and paper. Now you can trim off the excess. The most convenient way to do this is with a stationery knife. After this, you can level the surface with plaster.

Be careful when working with polyurethane foam! It is almost never removed from various surfaces and skin. Do not touch uncured foam with your hands! Avoid getting it on clothes, floor coverings, glass, frames and other surfaces.

If it is not possible to dismantle the corners, glazing beads with window frames, then just glue the cracks silicone sealant. It is necessary to place the sealant as deeply as possible into the holes. You can push it there and smooth it with your fingers moistened with water. Thanks to this, the glass will not rattle and there will be no draft.

A special sealing tape must be glued to the joints of the sashes and frames. Self-adhesive ones are most convenient. Before gluing, the surface must be cleaned and degreased. It is best to try to glue with a continuous line without joints around the entire perimeter.