Which insulation is better for a frame house. How and with what to insulate the walls of a frame house: materials and technologies Which insulation for the floor of a frame house is better

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Insulation of a frame house- a responsible process, which then determines how much you will pay for heating and whether there will be ventilation in your house, whether you can calmly walk barefoot even in winter and allow children to play on the floor for hours, or whether you will have to buy warm home clothes, socks and slippers.

I will define important concepts needed to understand the text:
Closing the outline of a house- this is the result of that stage of construction when the house is covered with a roof, doors and windows are installed in it, i.e. We are protected from precipitation from the street.
Insulation “by surprise”- this is insulation in which the pieces of insulation are wider than the cavity into which we insert it, which leads to the fact that the insulation supports itself due to natural expansion (we compress it so that it fits into the desired cavity).

Let's look at the insulation of various frame elements.

Floor insulation in frame house can be carried out in a variety of ways and with various insulation materials. If your house is not built using USP, then this point is definitely relevant for you. I drew this diagram to immediately highlight all types of floor insulation in a frame frame:

Risk of insulating the floor of a frame house until the circuit closes is that during construction, moisture will most likely get into the insulation more than once (rains are not uncommon in Russia, but floors made of plywood or OSB still allow moisture to pass through), which means that the insulation may lose all its insulating properties ( unless, of course, it's foam).

Insulation of the floor of a frame house after closing the circuit is devoid of this risk, but it requires additional movements: either removing the floor already under the roof or climbing under the house and insulating it from there, or building walls without a floor at all and installing the walls of the frame house directly on the logs (not recommended, this is quite dangerous).

As you already understood, the floor of a frame house can also be insulated both from above (while on the floor) and from below (from under the house). Let's look at everything possible options and potential problems.

Option 1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from above until the contour is closed.

The most traditional option. Immediately after securing in place, we can insulate the floor of a frame house before covering it with plywood.

If our insulation glass wool or mineral wool, then we just need to simply insert rolls of insulation spaced between the joists. The width of the insulation should be 1-2 cm larger than the space between the joists (if the insulation is 600 mm wide, then the joist pitch is 630 mm, and the space between them is 580 mm). If the insulation does not match, then we cut the insulation to the required size.

To simplify this process, you can first hem boards or plywood underneath the joists so that the insulation cannot fall into the subfloor over time. To do this, before installation, either cranial blocks are nailed to the joists from below, onto which the slabs under the floor insulation will be attached (picture 1), or an inch is attached under it, with a pitch of 300-400 mm across the joists (picture 2).

Everything is simpler and more difficult at the same time. It’s easier, because it’s not scary for it to get wet, which means it’s not scary to insulate the floor of a frame house with polystyrene foam until the contour is closed. Harder because it's tough and doesn't stand up to surprise so easy, it needs to be cut into Exact size clearance between the joists (or even place it against one joist immediately during installation and press it with the adjacent joist, then there will be no gaps). True, when the boards dry out (unless, of course, the board was already dry), most likely, gaps will appear between the foam and the joists; it is better to foam this space (you can remove it from the underground later). You also need to hem something underneath the foam plastic (boards, plywood or wind protection).

Option 2. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from below after closing the circuit.

If you have a basement or your house is on, and it is raised from the ground by at least 40 cm, then you can easily insulate the floor from below. To do this, you will need to prepare rolls of insulation, crawl under the house and place the insulation there at random. Then pull it under the insulation in the same way (or slabs supporting the insulation as in option 1). Remember that even if your piles are only 30 cm high above the ground, then adding a grillage to them, you get a distance to the floor joists of 50 cm, and this is already a completely working option for insulation from below.

Option 3. Insulation of the floor in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.

Insulating the floor of a frame house in this way is the most comfortable option, in my opinion. First we put the logs, secure them in their places, put ours on top, securing it TEMPORARILY with 2-4 self-tapping screws to the joists.

After which we put the walls on the plywood (but only load-bearing ones; we don’t put up non-load-bearing partitions at all yet), we put floor joists, rafters, etc. on the walls. until we close the entire circuit walls-roof-doors-windows.
Then we remove the screws from the plywood in the floor and cut out the plywood in the places where the load-bearing walls and insulate everything as in the first option (just don’t forget to add jumpers under the joints of the newly cut places in the plywood).

Order your home

There is another variation. If, before installing the walls, you place under them not solid sheets of plywood, but cut pieces 150 mm wide. In this case, there is no need to make additional jumpers, and there is also no need to cut anything, just unscrew the screws, remove the subfloor and insulate it.

Ecowool and floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.
With ecowool everything is the same, only you need to attach a windbreak to the bottom of the joists or sew it up with something, because... ecowool is bulk and it needs a solid base (it also makes sense to use MDVP instead of wind protection in this case). A big plus of ecowool is that with it you won’t need to cut anything in any case, make a step under the subfloor slabs (and of course, under the required load).
At all, ecowool, In my opinion - the best insulation for a frame house. If you decide to insulate your house with ecowool, contact me, I work with a real professional in insulating walls with ecowool, who travels to various regions.
Personally, for myself, I chose the option with ecowool.

Insulation of walls in a frame house

Insulation of walls in a frame house proceeds in a similar way. We insert the insulation between the . Remember that the pitch of the racks should also be 20-30 mm greater than the width of the insulation. Typically, the pitch of the racks is 625 mm with a 40 mm board and 635 mm with a 50 mm board. By the way, it seems to me that it is better to trim OSB-3 a couple of times than to constantly trim the insulation.

Video about insulation of walls in a frame house from the Rockwool company (manufacturer of insulation of the same name):

What kind of insulation is there for walls?

Types of insulation for walls: mineral wool with a density of more than 30 kg/m3, ecowool (wet method) and polystyrene foam. These three modern insulation are used in 95% of the walls of frame houses in Russia. It's difficult to say exactly what better thermal insulation the walls are ecowool or mineral wool or polystyrene foam, since each insulation has its own pros and cons.

Insulation for external walls

Special external insulation for walls it is used if you want to make a plaster facade using insulation. In such cases, you have 2 options: polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool (about 125 kg/m3).

The cheapest and best insulation for walls

We can say for sure that the cheapest insulation for walls is mineral insulation with a minimum density, but it is not recommended to use it, although some take risks and even use glass wool in the walls of a frame house. Over time, low-density basalt can settle in the walls and cracks will appear.

In my opinion, the best insulation for frame walls is. That’s why we insulate the houses of our clients, and we haven’t had any dissatisfied ones in 7 years of work. Ecowool can even withstand fires.
So contact us, we will insulate your walls with ecowool. And here mineral wool We had to throw it out of the walls more than once because it had become unusable. Of course, it wasn’t her fault, she just didn’t follow the insulation technology, but ecowool forgives even that.

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside

Cross-insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside

Insulate a frame house from the inside invented by the Scandinavians. In fact, it is much more convenient than outside, because... In this option, we are not afraid of precipitation and other weather disasters (in particular, hints from a neighbor). Insulation from the inside usually also in horizontal lathing 40×50 or 50×50 with a pitch of 400-625 mm, only lathing it's already underway on top plastic film(vapor barriers).

Do not forget that the sheathing breaks at the openings:

Insulation of the attic floor (ceiling) of a frame house

WITH top floor everything is the same as with the floor of a frame house, only there is no point in insulating from below, we do everything from above. Remember that you can pour or lay not only 150-200 mm of insulation (in the size of the floor joists), but also 300, 400 or even 500 mm of insulation. Walking on it will be problematic, but it will be very warm in winter and cool in summer.

Attic insulation

Video about insulating the attic with Rockwool:

Insulation of the basement of a frame house

It is convenient to insulate the base of a frame house with polystyrene foam or extruded foam plastic, which is attached to special fasteners.

So, in this article we introduced you to the most different options insulation of a frame house. This is a very important stage that can directly affect the health of you and your loved ones, so I urge you to take it responsibly.

And traditionally, I remind you about our services - you can buy a ready-made one from us or order its development according to your needs, and if you are still interested in insulation, we will insulate your house with ecowool or bring it.

Over the past half century, frame house construction has spread and become common technology in countries Western Europe and America. The technology achieved such rapid (on a historical scale) success thanks to the properties of buildings - economy during construction and practicality during operation.

Worldwide frame construction did not go unnoticed in Russian spaces. All larger number owners suburban areas choose a frame option for construction. The choice of thermal insulation material is critical for such a building. Expertly selected insulation for the walls of a frame house will allow you to get comfortable and warm housing without going beyond your budget. In our article we will tell you which insulation is better for a frame house, and which one should not be used.

Work on external insulation of the wall of a frame house Source iobogrev.ru

Types of frame houses and the principle of their insulation

Houses that fall under the definition of frame houses are built using several similar technologies that have no fundamental differences. In addition to traditional half-timbering and high-tech frame-panel technology (which includes buildings using German and SIP panels), other methods are actively used. The most popular options for frames include the following varieties:

Frame-panel houses. They are often called panel houses, Canadian or Finnish houses. Panels (boards) of a given size are manufactured in the factory. This preparation saves time construction site. The panels are quickly fixed to the frame and then insulated.

Post-frame houses. Insulation for the walls of a frame house is distributed between the racks, and sheathing is placed on top. Then wind and waterproofing is installed, the walls are sewn up, and interior and exterior decorative finishing is carried out.

One of the technologies for insulating the roof of a frame house Source iobogrev.ru

Which insulation is best for the walls of a frame house in each individual case is thought out at the planning stage, and the issue must be approached competently; A house in which not only the walls, but also the roof and foundation are insulated will be truly warm. It should be taken into account that for different surfaces thermal insulation materials with different properties will be required.

The optimal way to insulate a frame is to use cross technology, when the wall is formed by two frames - the main one (power frame, serving as a load-bearing structure) with vertical posts, and cross (external), with horizontal ones. With such an organization of the walls, the probability of the formation of cold bridges (in case of shrinkage) becomes vanishingly small, and the energy efficiency of the building increases significantly. Work on insulating a frame house is carried out in the following order:

External insulation. Only carried out under favorable weather conditions. Work will have to be delayed if it rains or snows.

Internal insulation. It is carried out using the crossover method. Its disadvantages are considered to be a shift in the dew point into the room (in case of errors in the construction of the wall) and a reduction in precious living space.

Thermal insulation of floors, ceilings, windows and doors.

Double cross frame; the main circuit is not insulated Source: seattlehelpers.org

Insulation for a frame house: selection criteria

Having set out to choose best option for insulation, you should decide on the selection criteria, as well as familiarize yourself with the offers available on the market. After comparing these two categories, you can determine which insulation is better for a frame house. Thermal insulation of frame walls is selected according to the following parameters:

Life time. The operating time of the structure and insulation must coincide.

Thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator (expressed through the thermal conductivity coefficient), the more reliably the building saves heat. The thermal conductivity coefficient is used to calculate the necessary and sufficient thickness of thermal insulation; The value of the coefficient is indicated by the manufacturer.

Water absorption. The lower, the better, since wet (moisture-absorbed) insulation can significantly increase the thermal conductivity of walls. You can say goodbye to the thermal efficiency of a home with wet insulation in its walls.

Classical frame pie Source palacestroy.ru

Shrinkage. A common problem with frame dwellings assembled by hand. Some types of insulation are subject to compaction, which is sometimes forgotten to be taken into account when choosing and installing. As a result of material subsidence, cold bridges appear and heating costs increase.

Fire safety. Building materials are divided into groups according to flammability (ability to resist fire). For insulation of frame houses, materials of the NG group (non-flammable) are often chosen.

Environmental friendliness. Since insulation occupies the bulk of the walls and surrounds the inhabitants of the house on all sides, the question of its harmlessness is of concern to any adequate owner. The main problem is that not all materials can boast of naturalness, and the best technical indicators belong to synthetics. But even here everything is not so bad: certified products do not provide dangerous influence on the health of the inhabitants of the house.

Bioneutrality. Insulation for a frame house should not become a haven for rodents, insects, molds and microorganisms.

Insulation of the internal surface with rolled material Source obustroeno.com

Knowing about the strong and weaknesses of each insulation, when choosing, they take into account not only the price, but also additional criteria:

Climate of the region. Weather ( winter temperatures, duration of autumn rains) at the place of construction country house influence the choice of not only the thermal conductivity coefficient, but also the size of the insulation for a frame house.

Location of insulation. Materials with different densities are used for different surfaces. To insulate the floor, choose a denser (and, accordingly, more durable) insulation. This parameter can be ignored when insulating walls and roofs, where the use of denser (and more expensive) material will only lead to higher construction costs.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Insulation materials: types and characteristics

Before choosing insulation for a frame house, you should familiarize yourself with its varieties. Materials used in construction are usually classified according to method of application:

Backfill. Backfill method - insulation using ecowool, expanded clay, foam glass or sawdust.

Sprayable. “Wet” technology is suitable for ecowool and polyurethane foam.

Slab (roll). The thermal insulation layer is fixed between the racks or in the ceilings frame structure.

Proper floor insulation in a frame house is the key to comfort Source strojdvor.ru

Insulation materials are also divided into two large groups based on their origin:

Natural. This includes materials of natural origin that have long been used in construction: moss, sawdust, peat, straw. They are available, cheap and environmentally friendly. The main disadvantages of natural insulators are flammability and high hygroscopicity, leading to the appearance of mold fungi. Do not discount insects and rodents, who also highly value naturalness and environmental friendliness.

Synthetic. Materials that have emerged through progress and human ingenuity. They are often non-flammable, easy to transport and use, and biologically stable. And, although synthetics are not without their drawbacks (they are more expensive, and when burned they release dangerous toxic compounds), they are valued in construction for their convenience and valuable properties.

Synthetic insulation for frame walls conditionally divided into soft and hard. The soft insulation is covered with sheathing on both sides; then you can install vapor and waterproofing, then decorative cladding.

Floor insulation scheme with synthetic material Source patter.ru

Mineral wool materials

Mineral wool - the general name of the universal and professional group thermal insulation materials, the use of which in insulation reaches 70%. This spread of mineral wool is due to its advantages: low weight, non-flammability, thermal efficiency and sufficient vapor permeability. The basis of the material is fibers obtained from the melt of the feedstock; Cotton wool is produced in the form of mats and rolls.

One of the indicators of the quality of mineral wool is the acidity module. The higher this value, the more waterproof and durable the wool is. The quality of wool is also affected by the binder - the component that holds the fibers together into a single whole. Several types of binders are used in production:

Based bitumen.

Based bentonite clays.

Synthetic. Based on phenol alcohol, phenol formaldehyde or urea resin

Compositional(most common). The composition includes synthetic resins (up to 2% by weight) and additives with hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties.

Video description

About mineral wool in the following video:

There are several varieties of this fibrous material, differing in the method of production and properties:

Stone wool. The starting materials are rocks (basalite, diarite, porphyrite), but more often basalt. In construction, a second name has taken root - basalt wool, although this particular variety is more often used for thermal insulation. industrial equipment and pipelines. Stone wool is a durable, non-flammable and environmentally friendly material with a high ability to retain heat. Small shrinkage of this slab material During operation, it prevents the formation of cold bridges.

Glass wool. It is made from molten glass, produced in slabs and rolls, and has characteristics similar to mineral wool. Glass wool has increased strength, elasticity and vibration resistance. However, glass wool fibers are fragile, and debris poses a health hazard. Working with the material requires the use of a respirator and special clothing, as well as installation using special technology. Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, but its service life is shorter.

Glass wool requires careful handling Source pinterest.fr

Slag wool. The raw material is molten blast furnace slag. This type of filler is similar in properties to glass wool; It is recommended to use it only for dry rooms. The main advantage of slag wool is its low cost.

Walls, ceilings and roofs are insulated with cotton wool; layer thickness in country house year-round residence should be 200-250 mm. The peculiarity of cotton wool is its hygroscopicity, which is neutralized by the use of vapor and waterproofing membranes. The density and thickness of the material affects not only the cost, weight and load resistance, but also the way it is used:

Rolled fabric(often laminated, foil-coated). Effective heat retaining material. Used for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces, has a density of 35 kg/m 3.

Plates. Material with a density of 75 kg/m 3 is used to insulate the floor, ceiling and interior partitions, and with a density of 125 kg/m 3 - for facade insulation. More rigid slabs (200 kg/m 3) are used for interfloor ceilings, roofing and screed floors.

Element of the roofing pie - mineral wool with foil coating Source pinterest.cl

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (known to the general public as ecowool) is an example of an environmentally friendly product. It consists of 80% newspaper waste paper and waste from the cardboard and paper industry, and 20% of additives that perform a flame-extinguishing function ( boric acid and sodium tetraborate). In appearance it is a loose material of various shades of gray.

Ecowool has proven itself well as sound and heat insulation; it insulates all parts of the frame structure. The disadvantages of ecowool are its high cost and the use of special equipment during installation. Insulation of a frame structure with ecowool is carried out in one of four ways:

Dry backfill. Manual labor-intensive method, limited in application. Suitable for insulation and soundproofing of small-area interfloor ceilings, ground floor floors, attic floor.

Dry blowing. The most preferred (fast and high-quality) method, suitable for insulating any cavities. It is carried out using blow molding equipment.

Video description

About ecowool insulation of the second floor of a frame house in the following video:

Wet glue method. It is used if it is necessary to insulate a large surface area or the project does not provide for cladding. In this case, water is added to ecowool if untreated wood is to be protected; or PVA glue, which increases the adhesive (adhesive) properties of the mixture. Can also be applied using a blow molding machine.

Liquid plaster (liquid wallpaper). Variety wet method, applied using the grout method. If the layer will serve not only as insulation, but also as a cladding, it is possible to add dyes.

Penoizol

Urea-formaldehyde foam, better known under the brand name Penoizol (aka Mettemplast or Poroplast), is a universal heat insulator with low density and thermal conductivity. It is produced and poured into foam; after hardening, penoizol resembles polystyrene foam with its white fine-cell structure.

Penoizol has an impressive service life (up to 80 years); The composition of the material is based on nitrogen, so it is classified as a low-flammable substance. For thermal insulation, not only foam is used, but also a slab version, as well as crumbs (thermal wool), which makes it possible to create a seamless layer with excellent insulating and noise-insulating qualities.

Ceiling insulation with foam insulation Source barberosalon.ru

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Exists large group PPU, with different properties and various areas of application, from filler for car seats and toys, to bumpers and shoe elements. In construction, polyurethane foam is used in the form of ready-made sheets or a self-foaming composition for pouring with a density of 5-40 kg/m 3.

PPU is considered a universal material that allows you to effectively insulate a house from the basement to the roof. It is cheap, has low thermal conductivity and excellent adhesion, which allows it to be applied (sprayed) to surfaces of any quality, from brick and metal to wood and roofing felt. Solid varieties of polyurethane foam are produced using the slab method. Unlike soft insulation, they serve as the basis for waterproofing and facade cladding.

Styrofoam

White material with a fine-mesh structure, fragile and short-lived. Despite this, it is considered a proven and convenient sound and heat insulating material due to its availability, low weight (15-35 kg/m3) and ease of installation (using glue). It is advantageous to use polystyrene foam for external insulation - it does not require additional vapor and waterproofing.

Elastic and resilient polyurethane foam is easy to use Source zemkadastr45.ru

Polystyrene foam used in construction (and for packaging) is not toxic, but when burned it emits chemical compounds that are extremely harmful to health; knowledge of this feature forces many customers to choose another insulation.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on insulating a house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Expanded polystyrene (penoplex)

Expanded polystyrene is a popular thermal insulation material due to its long service life, low cost and excellent sound and heat-saving properties. The material demonstrates high hydrophobicity (absorption volume is no more than 3% of weight), compressive and bending strength, fire resistance and non-toxicity.

Penoplex boards are attached to the frame posts with glue. Experts advise protecting the material from solar ultraviolet radiation.

Expanded clay

The material is the most common and proven fill-type insulation; It is used in thermal insulation of floors, floors and walls. Expanded clay is based on refractory clays, which are subjected to heat treatment during the production process. The result is granules, crushed stone or sand with a characteristic porous structure and attractive parameters, which include good thermal insulation and low weight, environmental friendliness, chemical inertness and vapor permeability.

Various fractions of expanded clay Source stroyfora.ru

Expanded clay is not flammable and does not lose its thermal insulation properties when temperature fluctuates. The only drawback of expanded clay is that its heat-protective properties are inferior to synthetic materials.

Foam glass

Not only expanded clay is produced in the form of granules, but also foam glass - a material with more high level thermal protection. Sand and broken glass are used to make it, which automatically turns the material into the safest and cleanest product. Granulated foam glass is indifferent to bio- and chemical agents, moisture-resistant, and its only (and tangible) disadvantage can be considered its high cost.

Video description

About the insulation of an American frame house in the following video:

The importance of high-quality vapor barrier and wind protection of insulation

In order for mineral wool insulation to cope with its duties perfectly, they need well-designed steam, water and wind insulation:

Vapor barrier. Serves as a barrier to moisture coming from the room. In the absence of such a protective layer, mineral wool absorbs moisture, and its ability to retain heat drops sharply.

Hydrowind protection. Both a windbreaker worn over a sweater and a protective membrane on the outside of the wall help retain heat. This protective material has a complex multi-layer structure - it not only retains heat, but also allows water vapor to pass out, while at the same time preventing atmospheric moisture from penetrating inside.

Modern protective membranes are capable of maximally insulating the insulation (and, therefore, the wall structure), which cannot be said about polyethylene film, which thrifty (or not familiar with physics) builders strive to use. Polyethylene will inevitably create the effect of a thermos inside the wall without the possibility of ventilation, which leads to damage to the insulating layer throughout the entire volume of the walls.

Wind protection of a frame house is an essential component of construction Source: seattlehelpers.org

Conclusion

Final decision The question of how best to insulate a frame house remains with the owner of the future home. To prevent the wrong choice of material and technology from leading to disappointment in a frame house, you should pay the most attention to the features of insulation. Correctly selected thermal insulation material and its installation, carried out taking into account technological requirements, will make the house truly warm and energy efficient.

The correct “pie” of the walls, floor and roof of a frame house must include a reliable one. It should be selected based on material density and thickness, taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region. It is desirable that the insulation lasts the entire life of the building itself and provides good thermal insulation, otherwise heating bills in winter threaten to greatly spoil the owner’s mood.

General requirements for insulation for frame frames

If you are planning to live in a frame house permanently, you should not skimp on insulation. In winter, the cost of heating rooms with “economical” finishing can cost a pretty penny. Frame houses differ in that their heat loss rate is quite high.

The general criteria for choosing thermal insulation materials for a frame house are as follows:

Low thermal conductivity (heat should remain indoors and not go outside).
Moisture resistance (the insulation should not absorb moisture like a sponge).
Fire safety (the material must be resistant to high temperatures).
Environmentally friendly (no harm to human health).

In addition, good insulation does not lose its functional properties throughout the entire period of operation.

Types of insulation for frame houses

The modern market offers a number of solutions for thermal insulation of frame houses. Below we will consider the types of insulation that are in consistently high demand.

. Pros: inexpensive, lightweight, environmentally friendly safe material, which is easy to install and holds heat well. Cons: brittle, easily catches fire, poor sound insulation, susceptible to destruction due to rodent activity. An acceptable option for seasonal country houses.
Mineral wool exists in two “states”: soft and hard. Soft mineral wool, or, is fire resistant, does not allow heat to pass through, and is virtually not subject to chemical decomposition. However, during installation the material must be secured with transverse wooden inserts from boards, otherwise the insulation will not be tightly fixed, which over time will lead to the appearance of so-called “cold zones” - sections of the walls not covered with a heat-insulating layer.
It looks more rational to use . The material is most often made from basalt (sometimes from slag). Pros: excellent thermal insulation, light weight, good sound insulation, fire resistance, strength, durability. However, the insulation allows moisture to pass through, so when installing it, the openings of the frame blocks must be additionally protected with waterproofing materials.
(EPP) - durable and dense material, easy to install. Pros: heat and moisture resistance, good sound insulation, relatively inexpensive. Minus: when high temperatures(from +70º) the structure of the EPP sheet is subject to deformation, and the material itself releases toxic substances.
PIR insulation is more versatile, but also expensive (about 450 rubles per square meter) option. PIRs can be used on any construction site: they insulate walls, roofs, ceilings, floors, and foundations. The material is durable, environmentally friendly, retains heat well, and is resistant to temperature changes (from - 65 to + 110º).
When insulating frame-panel houses, which are environmentally friendly, but susceptible to rotting and fire-resistant, the technology of spraying polyurethane foam is used. The solution preserves wall thickness, volume and weight load-bearing structures unchanged, and the treatment of the house itself requires much less time than the installation of traditional insulation. Disadvantage: you will have to call in professionals for such work.
Ecowool. Environmentally friendly insulation, safe for humans, fire-resistant, does not rot or become damp, and retains heat well. Disadvantages: only European production guarantees the environmental friendliness of the material, and insulation of walls with ecowool must be carried out using the so-called “wet” method (eliminates the possibility of shrinkage of the material), which will require the services of specialists.
Clay with a certain fat content. The most environmentally friendly option. It is important to remember that incorrectly selected clay (low-fat) will not insulate your home for long: after some time, the thermal insulation layer will begin to crack and crumble.
Sawdust is cheap, but this is perhaps its only advantage. Disadvantages: high thermal conductivity (twice as much as mineral wool), fire hazard, settling of the material over time.

How to properly insulate a country house

When installing insulation on a frame house, you must take into account the climatic characteristics of the region in which you live, and based on this, select the material according to density, thickness and other characteristics.

Since a house, as a rule, is a zoned object (walls, floor, roof, living quarters, storage rooms, etc.), you should approach the selection of insulation materials creatively. The floor can be insulated with sawdust, while for the walls it is better to use dense material (foam plastic, EPP, rock wool), and for the roof it is worth purchasing soft mineral wool or using PIR.

Helps you get a more accurate idea of what and how much you will need regulations, containing the parameters and characteristics of various types of insulation. For this there is our domestic “Code of Rules” - SP31-105-2002 (here is its updated version), copied from the Canadian Code.

For example, for a region with a stable -35º in winter, a “pie” is sufficient, including plasterboard, 150 mm thick foam, thick veneer, wind protection and wall finishing material on the outside.

For those who want to experiment and make a combination of different materials, it’s easy to find free calculators on the Internet for calculating the insulation of multi-layer walls.

Another important question: should the walls be insulated from the inside or outside? Thermal insulation from the inside involves the use only soft materials. This method is not very effective and also has a significant drawback: due to the insulation layer, the useful, often living, area of the room is reduced.

When the outside is insulated, heat is retained much better. In addition, insulation made from almost any material is suitable for it; it does not “eat up” the living space, which means you can choose a material of any desired thickness, even with a margin (the main thing is to keep within the width of the foundation).

Frame construction technology is becoming very popular in Russia. If in the West people buy ready-made houses, then our fellow citizens love to build with their own hands. The main question in the case of a frame house is: “Which insulation is best for a frame house?”

Properties of insulation

Mineral wool

Generally speaking, there is no clear opinion that this or that material is the best insulation for a frame house. There are several most popular options, and all have their advantages and disadvantages.

In addition, there are a lot of myths about various thermal insulation materials, generated as a result of advertising wars and simple ignorance, as well as stupidity. We will also list them.

Let's start with one of the most common. This is a material that is fibers made from rocks of the basalt group, waste from the glass industry or other slags.

According to its characteristics, this material is a highly effective heat insulator, while environmental and fire safety does not cause any complaints.

Here are some characteristics of mineral wool:

Thermal conductivity ranges from 0.035 to 0.068 W/m×K depending on the class and type of material. This allows us to classify this heat insulator as one of the most effective means to block the path of heat transfer from one body to another by conduction;
Hygroscopicity is about 1%. This is very low level absorption of moisture, but do not delude yourself: the amount of steam and water that accumulates between the fibers of the insulation is not taken into account here, but only that which is absorbed directly by the material itself;
Density ranges from 30 to 100 kg/m³. This characterizes mineral wool as a fairly dense material that can maintain its shape over a long period of time;
The melting point of the fibers is about 1000 °C. Complete fire safety, the material does not burn. This allows cotton wool to be used as an insulator for chimney pipes, stoves, fireplaces and boilers.

So, we see that mineral wool is a good answer to the question: “What insulation should I choose for a frame house?” Especially when you consider that the installation of this material is not difficult and does not require the participation of complex equipment, highly qualified professionals or expensive tools.

Regarding glass wool and stone wool There is a common myth: it cakes and crumples quickly, and needs to be changed frequently. This is complete nonsense. At correct installation lasts up to 50 years. Moreover, the instructions do not require any complex manipulations or labor-intensive work.

If you hired “builders” from a neighboring yard, be offended at yourself. They can save time and effort by spreading the joists so the mats can be inserted easily. Also, cotton wool is often attached incorrectly, according to the principle “it hangs and it’s good.”

These manifestations of carelessness should be stopped immediately and the team of workers should be changed. It is also necessary to choose the right vapor barrier materials.

Important! Mineral wool requires the right technology installation and vapor barrier. Only in this case will it serve you faithfully for a long time.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam and its variety polystyrene foam are perhaps the most popular materials for insulation of frame houses.

The fact is that abroad, and more recently here too, the market for building materials for frame houses is confidently filled with sandwich panels. This is not surprising, since in all respects this is a truly convenient and effective solution.

A sandwich panel is a wall slab (or roofing slab, or any other) that consists of insulation pressed between double-sided sheathing made of plastic, fiberboard, OSB, PVC or metal. Canadian SIP panels, where polystyrene foam is used as insulation, have become classics of modern sandwich panels.

Polystyrene foam has very low thermal conductivity, weighs very little and is very easy to install. He's got enough low price. In principle, this is enough to choose this insulation.

But there are several “buts” that are usually mentioned when discussing this material. The first “but”: the foam burns.

Firstly, when we build a house from wood, as in the case of a frame house, does it really matter whether only the house or the house and its insulation burn down in a fire?
Secondly, polystyrene foam does not burn as well as is commonly thought. Try it, set fire to a SIP panel without using gasoline, and you will understand what we are talking about.
In fact, the main danger is the toxic smoke that foam produces when burning. For this purpose, during the construction of frame houses, a window is provided in each room, and in the event of a fire, self-extinguishing is prohibited.

The second “but”: mice eat polystyrene foam.

Firstly, mice do not eat it, but build burrows and nests there. This is not bread, cheese or grain, they will not eat your house.
Secondly, rodents build nests in any insulation material, and they especially love mineral wool. It’s logical, where it’s warm, there’s a nest.
Today there are a lot effective ways get rid of rodents, from ultrasound to powerful poisons, impregnations and other means.

The third “but”: the foam allows heat to pass through the edges.

Firstly, the foam does not let anything through. They allow gaps left by incompetent installers to pass through. All joints must be processed polyurethane foam, and no problems.
Secondly, polystyrene foam is perhaps the most stable type of insulation, which does not wrinkle, get knocked down or deteriorate. And does not absorb moisture. What else is needed? Once again: foam plastic doesn’t let anything through, it just physically can’t, even if it wants to.

Advice! Thanks to its low weight and simplified installation, foam plastic is convenient for insulating a loggia or balcony, where you don’t have much choice with other materials.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. Its thermal conductivity is 0.019 – 0.03 W/m×K, which is lower than most materials common in this industry.

But that's not all its advantages.

Firstly, it is gas-filled plastic, in which air makes up up to 97% of the volume. In addition, the gas tanks are hermetically sealed, making the thermal insulation particularly effective and stable.

Secondly, this material does not absorb moisture. As you know, water conducts heat quite well and reduces the quality of any insulation in which it accumulates.

Thirdly, polyurethane foam creates a seamless monolithic hermetic coating, which simply does not have weak points and cold bridges. This is an important quality.

Finally, this material has excellent adhesion to the surface on which it is applied. In no case will it crumple, sag or crumple.

Add to this its complete chemical inertness, environmental friendliness, fire safety- and you will get almost perfect insulation. The only weak point is that he is afraid ultraviolet radiation. However, it is easy to protect against it with any coating.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam is the method of its application and the cost of the material. It refers to those that are applied like polyurethane foam using special equipment. Such work should be carried out by a trained specialist wearing a chemical protective suit and a respirator.

This fact negates the possibility self-installation using improvised means, and significantly increases the cost of insulation. For many consumers, it is the cost and the possibility of independent work that are the determining factors when choosing a material for home insulation.

Otherwise, the polyurethane foam does not cause any complaints. It can be called the material of choice; we can only hope that in the future such technologies will become more accessible to our consumers.

Conclusion

There is no clear leader among materials for insulating frame houses. All insulation materials have pros and cons; you have to choose based on capabilities and preferences. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Insulating the walls of a frame house is an important stage of construction that should not be neglected.

It is worth approaching this process seriously and responsibly, because frame houses are in no way inferior to concrete or brick ones in reliability and durability, and in most cases even benefit.

If you want your home to be a real holiday: warm and comfortable in winter, fresh and cozy in summer, then everything is in your hands.

Let's figure out how to properly insulate the walls of a frame house with your own hands.

Information about the most popular insulation materials

Today, a considerable number of insulation materials are known that are used in the construction of frame houses. Each has characteristic properties, its own pros and cons.

When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

low level of thermal conductivity;
fire resistance;
health safety;
ease of installation;
lack of tendency to deformation;
long service life;
value for money.

Today, in the process of building a home, the most popular materials for wall insulation are polystyrene foam and mineral and basalt wool.

The article is devoted to the features of these types of insulation, their advantages, disadvantages and nuances of the installation process.

Mineral wool is a popular quality insulation material. Mats or rolls are used for insulation.

They are easy to install, lightweight, durable, have excellent noise insulation and low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of insulating material include not being environmentally friendly (containing a small dose of substances harmful to health) and the inability to withstand the action of moisture (leading to loss of thermal insulation properties).

Mineral wool is mainly used during external insulation. One type of mineral wool is basalt wool.

The material has a number of positive properties:

low thermal conductivity;
health safety;
resistance to various environmental influences;
fire resistance;
strength;
long service life.

Lack of insulation basalt wool– cost of material. But a large number of This disadvantage outweighs the advantages of insulation.

Foam in Lately is rapidly becoming a leader among frame house insulation materials.

First of all, due to its low price. In addition, the material is convenient to use, lightweight, and harmless to health.

But at the same time, polystyrene foam has significant disadvantages:

is highly flammable and, when ignited, releases toxic substances;
very fragile, can be easily damaged during operation;
The material can be significantly damaged by rodents.

Although many experts claim that rats and mice do not eat polystyrene foam, but establish their homes there.

They say that modern foam plastic produced with the addition of fire-resistant additives.

It's time to familiarize yourself with the technology of wall insulation using each of the materials mentioned.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with cotton wool

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is a labor-intensive but effective process.

The main thing is that the walls are maintained correctly. First, let's consider insulating the external walls of a frame house with our own hands.

On initial stage work, the outside frame of the wall is sheathed with slabs (chipboard) so that there are gaps between them, which can be foamed at the end of the work.

Then insulation is laid layer by layer between the frame posts.

To prevent the formation of void bridges and cold bridges, you should take mineral wool with good density and lay each layer slightly offset.

The amount of insulation varies depending on climate zone location of the home.

The next step is to fill all the voids with foam. After this, it is necessary to cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, and fill the sheathing on it.

Now let's talk about insulation interior walls with your own hands.

Often this procedure is carried out to soundproof walls. It is advisable to use a special sound-absorbing material, but mineral wool will also work.

It is worth noting that protective membranes are not required for this process. The remaining stages of insulation of external and internal walls are the same.

Anyone who has at least the slightest construction skills can insulate the walls of a frame house with basalt wool. But at the same time, the process requires serious responsibility and concentration.

Before insulating the external walls of a frame house, cracks should be repaired. For this purpose, installation foam, tow, etc. are useful.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper) with ventilation. The film will protect the insulation from moisture, ventilation will facilitate the passage of air.

The insulation process consists of the following stages:

Mounting and fastening of a metal cornice to facilitate the process of laying insulating material and as protection against mice and rats;
Gluing a basalt slab to the wall. To begin with, large wall sections are filled with thermal insulation boards, then smaller sections;
Leveling the wall surface.

As for the insulation of internal walls, the material here also performs a soundproofing function. The technology is identical to the scheme for insulating external walls.

So, the processes of insulating walls with mineral and basalt wool with your own hands are similar.

They require certain construction knowledge and skills, diligence and faith in one’s potential. It is necessary to take into account all the subtleties of insulation technology.

Working with foam plastic

You are already familiar with the positive and negative sides of polystyrene foam as insulation.

Now let's look at how to insulate the external walls of a frame house using polystyrene foam. In the process of insulating walls with your own hands, the temperature must be maintained above zero.

At the initial stage, you should prepare the frame (get rid of unnecessary objects; treat the surface with antiseptic agents in order to protect the home from fire, level it (air should not get into the cracks), if possible fill the gaps with frost-resistant foam (for installation); treat the surface primer, let dry).

The next step is to apply a waterproofing layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper), which acts as protection for the walls from wind and moisture, applied from the outside.

There is an opinion that polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all, and a waterproofing layer is not needed.

But when low temperatures Humidity can destroy insulation. So laying this layer is necessary step insulation. Protective film glued with tape or special tape.

For high-quality insulation of a frame house, experts recommend laying three layers of insulation on top of each other, not forgetting to treat the joints with frost-resistant foam.

Be sure to position the slabs correctly so that they do not deform under the influence of temperatures, negatively affecting the cladding.

The inside walls are wrapped with a vapor barrier film to prevent condensation from forming on the insulation.

Penofol and various vapor barrier membranes are used as protection.

External cladding can be made over a waterproofing layer. Here you can do without ventilation.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with foam plastic inside the building is similar to insulating external walls.

So which insulation should you choose for your frame home? Let's summarize.

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