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How to make a false ceiling correctly. Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling: step by step making a plasterboard ceiling

How to make a false ceiling correctly. Do-it-yourself suspended ceiling: step by step making a plasterboard ceiling

Step-by-step guide with photos and videos on how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology


In previous articles, we dealt with ceilings and now we will look at plasterboard suspension systems. Decorating the ceiling is a responsible task, the execution of which largely determines the overall picture of the room’s interior.

Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard allow you to create interiors in a variety of styles

Suspended ceilings help to level the level of the ceiling, while at the same time eliminating surface unevenness. In terms of design options, such suspended structures are very diverse: there are vinyl, aluminum, etc.

There is nothing difficult about making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Any owner who has basic construction and construction skills can easily cope with this task. repair work. The main thing is to choose wisely necessary materials and carry out installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Selection of materials and tools

The key to reliability and durability of the design is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:


To attach profiles you will need:


To secure the hangers, you also need to prepare 8x10 dowels. Galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help connect the profiles to each other and attach the frame to the concrete base. To fix plasterboard sheets, self-tapping screws 25 mm long will be needed.

To install the structure you will need the following tools:


A building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for installing the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To execute Finishing work After installing it yourself, you should prepare materials in advance, which include:

  • Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
  • Sealing self-adhesive tape;
  • Acrylic primer;
  • Putty for seams;
  • Paint brush or roller;
  • Medium spatula;
  • Fine-grained sandpaper;
  • Sound and thermal insulation (if necessary).

Porous sealing tape on a self-adhesive basis helps ensure that the frame adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Taping seams with serpyanka

Preparatory work

The first thing you need to do before installing a suspended ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of lamps that are supposed to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number of lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which will ultimately affect the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the suspended ceiling lighting, they carry out the wiring electrical wires, the ends of which in the places where lighting fixtures are installed are lowered down and secured with clamps.

Diagram: lighting system installation

To determine the ceiling level and create a perfectly straight line for arranging the frame, first make marks on the walls. To simplify the task, strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room at a convenient height of 1.7 m, each time guided by a laser or water level. Then they are connected using a painting cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to the base surface, determining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame, step back from the intended lowest point of the base surface to the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value for the gap. When installing spotlights, the height of the frame should be correlated with the size of their base.

Having established the distance from the mark of the lowest point to the horizontal line, apply parallel line under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for securing the guide profile.

Installation of the suspended structure frame

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line marked on the wall.

Metal frame for suspended ceiling

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it using metal scissors. Then, pressing it tightly to the line on the wall, fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. To create a durable structure, the interval between holes should be at least 30-40 cm, and at the edges and in the corners - 15 cm.

Where the middle of the plasterboard sheets are placed, additional fastening should be provided. A sealing tape is glued to each profile, fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is carried out in several stages:


Sheathing the gypsum board frame

The principle of attaching plasterboard sheets to a metal frame is quite simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing plasterboard sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

The sheets must be fastened parallel to the longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In places where sections and whole sheets join, in order to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make indentations with a knife.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. A gap of 1 mm is always left between adjacent sheets.

The screws begin to be screwed in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at right angles, “recessing” the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut a sheet lengthwise or crosswise, you need to cut the cardboard shell with a knife on one of the sides at the intended point, applying the rule. Then bend it along the cut line, cutting through the cardboard on the opposite side.

To make rectangular holes, it is convenient to use a hacksaw, and for round holes for lamps, an electric drill equipped with a special “crown”. If it is necessary to do round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle, and inner part Squeeze the resulting circle out.

Other secrets of mastery when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to “settle” for one or two days. After this, they move on to surface finishing. First, coat it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, the “recessed” screw heads are puttied.
The plastered ceiling is left for a day. After the finishing material has completely dried, the joints are “sanded” with fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned surface is covered with finishing putty. After drying, the joints are “sanded” again, carefully inspected under the light of a lamp, and if irregularities and scratches are detected, they are again covered with a finish. Final sanding is performed when the material is completely dry, i.e. in 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from photos on the Internet.

Having mastered the technology of installing a single-level suspended ceiling, you can move on to more complex structures, using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling: photo



It is often necessary to think about what kind of ceiling to make in it, because you want this part of the bathroom to be beautiful, practical and durable. The following building materials can be used for the ceiling:

  1. Plastic panels.
  2. Drywall.
  3. Lining.

Let's start with how to make a suspended ceiling in a bathroom from panels. There is nothing complicated here.

Why do we consider panels first and not drywall? Of course, you can make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard. First you need to bring it to truck material, and then do the finishing - cover the seams and sheets with mesh, apply and level putty, paint. Of course, such a ceiling will be beautiful, but, in general, plastic panels also look great. Moreover, not everyone is able to install a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, but attaching the panels is not difficult. Next we will also consider ceiling and plasterboard options.

Advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

A little about the benefits of plastic on the ceiling. It is not afraid of moisture and water - and this is the main requirement for the ceiling in rooms with high humidity. The same plasterboard for the ceiling needs to be purchased only if it is moisture resistant, and such a sheet will cost more than usual. In contrast, plastic panels of any type are not deformed by moisture. If dirt gets in, it is enough to wipe the material with a wet cloth, but the drywall will probably have to be repainted. Even if careless neighbors above cause a flood, there will be absolutely nothing for the plastic.

Advantage plastic panels Another advantage for the bathroom is that they do not mold, do not require additional finishing, and are easy to replace if necessary. In addition, there is always a wide selection of colors, making the bathroom look aesthetically pleasing. These panels can be used to cover a ceiling with any unevenness or other imperfections. In addition, it does not take up as much space in height as a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard sheets, and at the same time, electrical wiring can be installed above the panels or even pipes can be hidden.

Polyvinyl chloride is used for the manufacture of plastic panels - in general safe substance for human health, which is also used for the production of disposable plates and other similar products.

Installation of a suspended ceiling frame

Before marking the frame and starting to install the ceiling, you need to determine the distance at which the suspended ceiling will be from the floor slabs or old ceiling. If lamps are installed, then a height of about 100 mm, or even 150 mm, is required. When the height has been decided, you can begin marking on the walls for attaching the frame profile.

If the ceiling is flat (you can check this with a building level), then you can not make a suspended frame, but fix it wooden slats directly to the ceiling, and then staple the panels to them.

How is marking done? A mark is placed on the wall in one of the corners, for example, 15 cm down from the ceiling. Then similar marks are placed on other walls (using a laser or water level). One continuous line is drawn along them, which will be the bottom level metal frame.

Regarding the profile, two types of profile will be needed - CD and UD. The UD profile is required for wall mounting, and the CD is used as a cross profile. Counting the number of profiles is easy. The wall profile has a length of 3 m, which means you need to calculate the perimeter of the bathroom and divide the resulting value by 3. The situation is similar with the longitudinal profile. It should be located every 50 cm. By counting the total number of axes along which it will be attached and their length, you can similarly find out the number of CD profiles.

We install the wall profile using dowels, and the longitudinal profile using metal screws small size(the so-called “fleas”). In order to drill a wall for dowels, you will need a hammer drill or a good hammer drill with a drill with a pobedit tip Ø 6 mm. The step by which wall profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws must be at least 40 cm.

When the wall profile is secured, a longitudinal profile is mounted, connecting it to the wall profile and to each other with “fleas”. According to the ceiling area, you will need special hangers made of knitting needles or strips, which can be used to secure the profiles so that they do not sag. Considering the light weight of plastic panels, not so many of them will be needed.

When the frame is completed, do not forget to install electrical wiring for lighting the bathroom. A copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm², carried in a corrugation, is suitable for it. The cable must be attached to the ceiling, not the frame. At the place where the lamp (or lamps) will be located, it is necessary to make leads 25–30 cm long from the frame for the convenience of further connecting the wires to the socket. For lamps, it is necessary to consider the mounting.

Panel installation

Now the final stage of ceiling installation is fixing the plastic panels in the bathroom. Work always starts from the edge. Briefly about the design of the panels. One side has a tenon, and the other a groove into which the next panel is inserted with its tenon.

The first panel is cut to length (or two panels are attached, one of which will be cut) and installed with a tenon to the wall so that they are located across the frame profile. After that, it is fixed to this profile using small self-tapping screws with a washer, which are screwed into a tenon and bottom part groove. After this, the next panel is inserted, but only the lower part of the groove is fixed in it. According to this principle, the entire ceiling is mounted to the very end. Last panel cut (if necessary) not only in length, but also in width, then secure it at the edge near the wall.

When all the panels are assembled, cornices are glued to the corners with the wall and ceiling, which will hide the seams between the plastic and the wall.

If the plastic panel is extended in length, but its length is not enough for the entire ceiling, then it is necessary to supplement it with a piece of another strip. In order for the joint to be made correctly in this case, it is necessary to purchase a special fastener, which has grooves on both sides so that the width of the panel can freely fit into them.

If it is necessary to cut the profile, this can be done with metal scissors. It is best to carefully cut the panel with a hacksaw or a sharp construction knife.

The finished ceiling can be carefully wiped with a damp cloth, after which you need to hang the lamps, securing them to the ceiling. Having connected the wires to the socket, screw the light bulb into the lamp. We can say that the installation of the ceiling is complete.

A suspended ceiling from plastic panels is quite easy to make, and it is durable - in the next ten years you won’t have to worry about repairing the ceiling. In addition, by installing it, you can significantly save on repairs without losing the quality of the work performed.

In addition to panels, it can be mounted on the ceiling in the bathroom plasterboard sheets. However, you need to take into account that not all sheets are suitable - in the bathroom you can only use moisture resistant drywall, which would be able to withstand high indoor humidity.

A plasterboard ceiling is more difficult to install than a ceiling made of plastic panels. But its advantage is great design and the possibility of creating a ceiling of several levels, if the height of the bathroom and its dimensions allow it. So, let's look at where ceiling installation begins.

In a sense, the frame for a plasterboard ceiling is similar to the frame needed for plastic panels. A guide profile is also attached to the wall; longitudinal and transverse profiles are inserted into it and held on hangers. But there are certain requirements for the step between the latest profiles. Thus, the size of one sheet of drywall is usually 2.5 m in length and 1.2 m in width. When creating a frame in the bathroom, you need to take these dimensions into account.

For installation plasterboard ceiling In the bathroom, some people prefer to purchase non-standard sheets or cut existing ones. In this case, the frame must be assembled, taking into account the size of the resulting drywall sheets.

Sheets on the ceiling begin to be attached from the edge, on one of the walls. Consequently, the two sides of the plasterboard along the length and width will be attached to the guide profile, tightly adjacent to the wall. The following profiles are arranged according to this pattern: the longitudinal profile, like the transverse one, should extend onto the sheet only halfway so that the next sheet can be secured to its second half.

This means that the distance from the wall to the center of the profile at the junction of the sheets should be equal to the width of the sheet, that is, 1.2 m, or another value if specified width has other sizes. However, a distance of more than a meter without additional reinforcement risks that the sheet may begin to sag and even crack. Therefore, it is necessary to fix another longitudinal profile in the middle of the sheet, the center of which would be 60 cm from the wall and the same distance from the profile at the joint.

The situation is similar with regard to length. The center of the profile with which the two sheets will be joined should be in the middle, and between it and the wall it is necessary to place more transverse profiles - approximately every 60 cm (step). The joints of longitudinal and transverse profiles are reinforced with suspensions. You can strengthen not all joints, but through one – this will be enough to prevent the ceiling from sagging. Using this principle, the entire frame in the bathroom is assembled.

In some cases, if the bath is spacious and high enough, home owners may decide to install a plasterboard false ceiling on several levels in their bathroom. In this case, it is necessary to assemble the top row of the frame, and then the bottom, and both levels will be connected by a profile in those places where the vertical sections of drywall will be attached. The optimal level height is 10 cm.

Before attaching the drywall, you need to lay the electrical wiring, having previously hidden it in the corrugation.

IN Lately Lining made from various types of trees, for example, larch, cedar and other wood, has gained considerable popularity. Besides that wooden lining It is strong and durable, and thanks to its impregnation, it is not afraid of water. You can mention that she looks good. With the help of lining, you can create the appearance that the ceiling in the bathroom is made of perfectly smooth boards. And if you use false beams, you will get the impression that the ceiling is made of wooden beams.

See how to make a rack aluminum ceiling in the bathroom:

Photo

IN modern interior suspended ceilings take pride of place. They are the most various forms and are mounted from different finishing materials. Their undoubted advantage is simple installation with a minimum execution time.

Peculiarities

When plastering, builders require a certain amount of experience. This process cannot be carried out without preparation. But almost anyone can install the frame on the ceiling with a minimum of tools. The main thing to have in your arsenal is: a drill, a jigsaw, a screwdriver and a level. It should be noted that there is a type of ceiling that requires the attention of professionals. This is the system suspended ceilings. Installation is carried out using special equipment, heat gun. Home master can independently install a suspended ceiling system from plasterboard, plastic, lining. And also master the Armstrong ceiling structure.

To choose the right type ceiling covering, you need to consider the following factors:

  • functionality;
  • aesthetics;
  • technical and operational aspects.

When determining functional characteristics suspended structures, you should use the instructions and technical sheets from the manufacturer. They describe in detail how to install, what type of premises they are suitable for. different types ceiling. IN technical descriptions examples of calculations are given design features, as well as tables with all the data. Therefore, experts have developed approved documents that indicate for which premises this or that type of ceiling covering is more suitable.

It is necessary to choose not only the material for installation, but also to develop the configuration of the ceiling. The supporting frame must clearly perform its functions.

The choice of ceiling type is significantly influenced by:

  • the need to install a ventilation system;
  • laying communications for connecting electricity;
  • conditioning;
  • the need for specific material properties (sound absorption, fire safety, impact resistance);
  • service life and the ability to replace individual elements.

Each consumer has a list of his own requirements, especially aesthetic and design ones. But there are also generally accepted ones, from manufacturers of suspended ceiling systems. These include functionality, moisture resistance, thermal insulation, service life. You need to focus on them.

Acoustics is the way sound travels. For office premises this is a very important criterion. Low level noise has a beneficial effect on the work process and increases productivity. There are special acoustic plates from German manufacturers that absorb sound well. Their use is justified in rooms with increased level noise.

Suspended ceilings can provide free access to communications, pipes, ventilation, heating systems, fire alarm. To fix the problem, it is enough to remove the decorative ceiling tiles, which will provide access to the ceiling. With the help of a suspended ceiling you can easily hide defects and cracks in the base. The work of installation, dismantling and maintenance is less labor-intensive when compared with other types of finishing. The pendant system makes it possible to place more lamps and absorbs noise.

Developing exclusive designer ceilings of different, sometimes bizarre shapes can be very expensive for the owner. But she will be one of a kind. Modern materials make it possible to make the cellular structure of a suspended ceiling almost invisible. You can order different designs of slabs, and then assemble them into an intricate individual design on the ceiling.

Positive sides ceiling structures are as follows:

  • hide defects and imperfections of the base. This is relevant when carrying out repair work in old buildings, where the ceilings, as a rule, were plastered. Over time, the finishing layer began to crack and could even fall off in some places. This type of coating must be completely beaten off and the solution applied again;
  • Manufacturers of building materials offer many solutions for the construction, shape and design of ceilings. The cost depends on the customer’s estimate: from inexpensive to exclusive solutions;
  • Very big choice coatings are glass ceiling tiles, plastic, metal, plasterboard, wood. There are brilliant and matte ceilings, as well as with a 3D effect;

  • no need to disassemble the entire ceiling to replace part of the covering;
  • easy to care for. A damp wipe is sufficient; in addition, the coatings have dust-repellent properties;
  • communications, wiring, pipes, ventilation can be laid in the interceiling space;
  • suspended ceilings require the use of a variety of lighting devices, such as raster lamps, spotlights, LED systems, chandeliers;
  • long service life. Frame elements are guaranteed for 15 years of use. With proper care, the elements of the suspension system last longer;
  • have thermal insulation properties, absorb sound, are fireproof, and do not depend on sudden changes in temperature.

The negative aspects of ceiling structures are the following:

  • reducing the distance from floor to ceiling. A suspended structure, as a rule, is supported on spokes, the length of which is 25 cm. In small-sized apartments, the reduction in the height of the room will be very noticeable;
  • high price level relative to other materials. Whitewashing the ceiling is cheaper, taking into account the development of the construction industry, it is better to choose a more expensive and durable material. Each customer strives for individuality, and this can be achieved using modern solutions;
  • fear high humidity. In case of flooding, replacement of the decorative coating and load-bearing elements will be necessary.

Materials

A suspended ceiling consists of a metal frame, which occupies the entire base area, and ceiling slabs attached to supporting structures.

Plates can have different types of connection:

  • Cells. The entire ceiling is divided into squares or rectangles, which are covered with slabs at the back.
  • Tiles. Mainly used in office premises.
  • Panels. A panel in the form of a rectangle more than 30 cm wide is taken as a decorative element.
  • Cassette. Squares frame structure covered with panels of the same size.

  • Reiki. During installation, decorative slats of different lengths and widths are used.
  • Solid ceiling. Most often it is assembled from sheets of plasterboard.
  • Stretch ceiling. PVC film is used.

Decorative finishing consists of different materials:

  • Drywall sheets. They make it possible to create a perfectly smooth coating that can be puttied, wallpapered, painted, applied decorative plaster. With the help of plasterboard sheets, ceilings appear in the interior different levels and geometric shapes. Drywall is environmentally friendly and complies sanitary standards. His disadvantages include the fact that he is afraid of conditions high humidity and needs a finishing coat.
  • Plastic panels. They are made from polycarbonate. Mirror surface plastic ceilings- This is an excellent replacement for glass panels. This ceiling is easy to install, moisture resistant, resistant to mechanical stress, easy to clean.

  • Metal. These are aluminum or steel slats, cassettes, panels. They can be matte or glossy, with a mirror finish.
  • Tree. Any product made from natural wood, is the key to quality and durability. Wood products will never go out of fashion, but their big disadvantage is their high cost. Manufacturers suggest using more in finishing cheap way. Using chipboard and MDF boards, the surface of which is covered with patterns imitating natural wood. You can find slabs covered with veneer.

Frame

Before proceeding with installation, you should calculate the amount of materials, purchase tools, process the base and apply markings.

The sheathing is made of galvanized steel profiles. It is not afraid of moisture, since the profiles are protected by zinc. To install a ceiling made of plasterboard or plastic, you will need ceiling strips (60x27 mm) and guides (27x28 mm), as well as suspensions that will hold the structure: butterflies, connecting couplings, anchor suspensions, connecting elements. To secure it, you need to purchase metal screws and polypropylene dowels.

Tools

Basic tools for self-installation frame structures are as follows:

  • angle grinder;
  • perforator;
  • laser level;
  • tape measure, pencil, ruler;
  • construction knife and files for metal or wood;
  • rule;
  • plumb line;

  • metal scissors;
  • protective glasses;
  • hammer with nail puller;
  • pliers, crimping pliers;
  • metal hacksaw with fine teeth;
  • screwdrivers, awl.

A level is needed to apply markings for installing the guide element. The rule is used when cutting drywall sheets. After installing the drywall, further finishing will be required. Tools and materials you may need:

  • tape for reinforcing seams;
  • sealing tape;
  • priming solution;
  • putty;
  • paint roller and brush;
  • putty knife;
  • abrasive sheet No. 240.

How to calculate consumption?

Armstrong ceiling consumption rates

Knowing the consumption rates, you can:

  • independently calculate the amount of required materials;
  • count approximate cost procurement;
  • make an estimate;
  • allocate a budget for work.

Using the ceiling as an example square shape with total area 100 m², let’s do the calculations. The length of the guide strip is 3.6 m. It is installed in increments of 1.2 m. To find out the required quantity, divide the ceiling width of 10 m by the installation increment (1.2 m). This results in 8.33 rows of carriers. Multiply the length of the room 10 m by the number of rows. Almost 84 linear. m, and this is 28 pieces of supporting profiles. A 1.2 m crossbar is installed in 60 cm increments. We repeat a similar calculation: find out the number of rows (10 m length divided by 0.6 m installation step). We have almost 17 of them. linear meters this turns out to be 167. And in pieces it turns out to be almost 140 (167 linear meters must be divided by 1.2 m - the length of the bar).

Guides of 0.6 m are installed in increments of 1.2 m. We calculate in the same way and it turns out that 84 linear meters will be required. m slats. Their number will be 140 pieces. Suspensions are placed on 3.6 m strips with a step of 1.2 m. For 1 m² of ceiling you will need 0.7 pieces of suspension. The corner profile is calculated along the perimeter of the room, its length is 3 m. For 1 m² you need 0.4 linear meters. m.

Using these calculations you can calculate the consumption slatted ceilings, acoustic. Do not forget that this is an average calculation. It is better to include 7–10 additional percent in any estimate to avoid unpleasant situations later. The following factors need to be taken into account:

  • shape of the room;
  • possibility of placing slats diagonally;
  • cutting slabs;
  • defect rate.

Cost standards for ceilings made of plasterboard sheets

Let's take as an example a ceiling 10 m long and 10 m wide. The size of the ceiling plasterboard is 2500x1200x9.5 mm. As a result of calculations, the following materials will be required for work:

  • plasterboard – 100 m²;
  • CD profile – 87 pieces;
  • UD profile – 14 pieces;
  • suspension 60/27 – 160 pieces;
  • longitudinal connector – 70 pieces;
  • cross-shaped coupling – 160 pieces;
  • ceiling dowel – 1600 pieces;
  • self-tapping screw “flea” – 900 pieces;
  • dowel 6x40 – 200 pieces;
  • putty – 40 kg;
  • fiberglass tape – 130 running lines. m.

Installation

Installation of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard

The first thing to do is find an assistant. It is very difficult to attach sheets of drywall yourself; you need safety net. It's better to start simple single-level ceiling preferably a small area.

  • Preparation for installation. You need to carefully inspect the walls and ceilings, remove anything that might interfere. Lay communications, repair cracks in the ceiling base.
  • Mark the ceiling. At this step you need to decide on the lighting fixtures and their connections. When using spotlights, the ceiling drops 3–4 cm below them total length, and when using raster ones - by 5–10 cm. Look at the degree of curvature of the old ceiling, and avoid making such mistakes with the new one. Using a level, find the lowest angle from which the markings will begin. Having marked the corners, we usually measure an even horizontal line on the walls. This is the bottom line of the UD profile.

  • Installation of frame elements. We fasten the guide profile around the perimeter. To do this, we make holes for the dowels at a distance of 30 cm with a puncher. We screw wood screws into them. The length of the dowel plug must be at least 40 mm. CD profiles are installed in increments of 60 cm. They come in 3 and 4 meters. To give the frame rigidity, you need to use hangers for rack profiles with a fastening pitch of 40 cm.
  • Laying communications and choosing a location for the lamp. To install a spotlight, you need to use a crown to make a hole in the drywall. Profile entry is not allowed. In the case of a chandelier, it is attached to the base or guide profile. The profile must be additionally reinforced with hangers. The wires are placed in a special corrugated pipe. Communications for the surface-mounted lamp are routed through a hole in the drywall.

  • Thermal insulation. The frame structure can and should be insulated with sheets mineral wool. It not only serves as thermal insulation, but also absorbs sound.
  • Fastening drywall sheets. Knowing the width between the walls, you need to calculate how many whole sheets and how many pieces are needed. Cut the sheets using a construction knife or a drywall saw. Secure plasterboard sheets with metal screws in increments of 25 cm. Heads fastening elements recessed into drywall so that they do not rust over time. Subsequently, they will be covered with putty. A special tape is glued to the junction of the two sheets and puttyed with a gypsum mixture. After complete drying, the seams must be sanded. The entire surface must be primed so that the finish adheres better.

Installation of Armstrong-type suspended structure

  • Marking and drawing up a diagram. As in the previous case, you first need to draw up a layout diagram of the structures. Then start marking. Profiles in such a system are not attached to the base, but along the marking lines the master will quickly navigate where the supporting profiles and other jumpers will be located.
  • To install a suspended ceiling, you need it lower by at least 15 cm. This is the minimum constructive gap for laying communications and installing lamps. You can also install insulation in this space. The most convenient way to mark a wall is to use a laser level. You can use regular bubble levels instead.

  • Laying communications. Before you start installing the frame, you need to carry out all the work related to the electrical wiring. For example, if it is known that lighting fixture will be large-sized, then the place of its attachment must be additionally reinforced with suspensions.
  • Installation of the frame. After completing all work, you can proceed to installing profiles. Corner profiles are attached to concrete bases using dowels. Their diameter is 6 mm, they are placed in increments of 30 cm around the entire perimeter. The corner is secured to the wooden base with wood screws. Their length is 30 cm.

If you plan to cover the walls of the room with gypsum plasterboard sheets, then an additional horizontal profile is installed in the metal wall sheathing. This is done for structural rigidity. The wall corner is attached to this additional profile. According to the marked lines, you need to secure a set of fasteners (suspension, butterfly, knitting needle). One set of hangers is required per 1m². In those places where lamps are planned, additional fasteners can be installed.

The supporting profiles (3600) are placed on the wall corners and secured with hangers. The distance between them is 1.2 or 0.6 m. It depends on the drawn diagram. All work must be controlled using a level. Fixed carriers must be positioned strictly horizontally. The hooks of the suspensions are slightly pressed with pliers so that the carriers hold well. The 1200 bearings are placed in 60 cm increments. They fit into the slots located on the 3600 profiles and snap into place. Some craftsmen bend them, but this is not necessary. The frame will already be rigid.

  • Installation of ceiling tiles. After all work on the installation of the frame structure is completed, lamps and decorative slabs are installed. Electric wires are brought to the right square where the lighting fixture will be located. And the lamp is connected using terminal blocks. First, whole slabs are installed. They are not fastened with anything, they are simply placed on the prepared frame. As a rule, the outer cells may not coincide with the size of the slabs, so trimming will be required. The slabs are easily sawed with a hacksaw and then placed in the holes.

After their installation, the installation of the ceiling can be considered complete. No additional finishing is required. This is the most simple circuit laying slabs, but there is more complex options when slabs are laid diagonally or offset. Load-bearing elements allow you to create a frame of different configurations. By choosing such a ceiling, the master has the opportunity to independently engage in design. After all, these coatings can be painted in different colors and combined with each other.

It is worth noting this type of panels as LED lamps. These are panels that look like a screen, covered matte film. They are designed for ceiling suspended systems and have standard size 600x600 mm. These panels have very powerful LEDs built into them that emit bright but soft light. It is enough to have one such lamp to create daylight diffused light in a room.

Before installation suspended structure It is important to determine the scope of work in advance. If you prepare thoroughly, you will not need to be distracted by purchasing missing parts.

You will need:

  • choose a coating for installation;
  • draw a sketch;
  • prepare the necessary tools;
  • make an estimate;
  • purchase construction materials.

What are suspended ceilings made of?

The market provides a wide variety of products; you can always choose a sample that harmoniously fits into the interior, matches your finances and design ambitions.

The main function of suspended structures is to level the surface. In addition, they have excellent noise-absorbing properties.

It is enough to place between it and concrete base a layer of mineral wool or other insulator. This will eliminate sounds from the upper floors and reduce heat loss.

Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard are very popular. If the interior of the room allows, do-it-yourself installation is done from the following materials:

  • PVC panels or siding (bathrooms);
  • wooden lining (saunas, baths, eco-style, country style);
  • Amstrong ceiling tiles (kitchens, hallways).

Frame installation

Regardless of the material, before installing the suspended ceiling, the base is marked and a wooden sheathing is made for plastic or lining, or metal UD and CD profiles for gypsum boards are used.

The marking principle is common in all cases. Availability laser level simplifies the cutting of a horizontal plane around the perimeter of the room. If it is not there, take a hydraulic device, the operating principle of which is based on the interaction of fluid in communicating vessels. When the edge of the tube is raised or lowered, the water at the other end will be at the same level. This method takes longer, but the end result is just as good. In addition to the spirit level you will need:

  • impact drill or hammer drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • tape measure, meter, pencil;
  • beater cable (painting cord);
  • metal scissors;
  • building level;
  • Bulgarian;
  • wallpaper knife;
  • rule.

Start marking from the lowest corner, which can be determined with a tape measure. If you involve an assistant, the process will take a little time.

Before installation, it is advisable to decide on the lighting source. If point devices are provided, there must be enough space for their installation.

Marks are made at a distance of 5-10 cm from the corner, departing from the ceiling 5 cm more than the size of the soffit.

If spot lighting is not planned, it is enough to set aside a segment equal to the profile width + 1 cm.

One end of the hydraulic level hose is aligned with the marked mark, and the other is taken to the opposite wall and left at risk until the liquid stops oscillating.

Work in the same way with other corners of the room. Then, with a strong thread in dry dye powder, the applied marks are connected - pulled between the marks, carefully pulled back and thrown. Paint that falls off when moving will leave a connecting mark.

Mark lines on the ceiling in increments of 50 cm.

The following is important: before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to bring out electricity for the planned lighting and find out where the existing wiring is located, because it often runs at the base of the wall where the frame is made.

The UD guide profile is attached along the marked line using a dowel and nails 40 mm long, d 6 mm. Pre-drill holes in profiles and walls. Then, combining them, they screw them to the base so that the shelves are parallel to the ceiling.

They begin to install the ceiling profiles, placing them under the hangers attached along the transverse pieces in increments of 70-100 cm and inserting each edge into the groove of the UD profile. Fix the structure with self-tapping screws and a drill.

To place profiles in a single plane between starting bars pull a strong thread along which they are guided during alignment. Before fixing, check the horizontal position using a bubble level. The question often arises about how to make a suspended ceiling yourself. To do this, it is convenient to use levels with built-in magnets; they can be attached to vertical guides. The hangers are screwed with self-tapping screws to the profile shelves and the edges are bent upward.

The transverse sections are secured using crab connectors.

Installation process

When finishing ceilings in bathrooms, bathrooms, and kitchens, moisture-resistant plasterboard with a wall thickness of 0.9 cm is used. Externally, it can be distinguished by its green color. In other rooms, ordinary sheets are used.

Mount the gypsum boards with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. Preliminary markings are carried out corresponding to the pitch of the sheathing so that there are no difficulties during assembly.

Start installation from the corner of the room, gradually moving forward. Self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of at least 15 cm from the edge of the sheet. The heads of the fasteners are not allowed to protrude above the plane, but they should not be screwed in too deeply - the protrusion on the back side should be no more than 10 mm.

Cut drywall with a construction knife - apply long rule and carry out with a sharp blade. Then the material can be broken quite easily.

Installation in several levels

If desired, you will need to draw a detailed sketch. It may seem that it is quite difficult to build such a structure, but if you follow the plane and observe the dimensions, there will be no difficulties.

For curved ceilings you will need to make a drawing template.

To bend metallic profile, according to the drawn picture, cut both shelves opposite each other every 5 cm. Devoid of stiffeners, it will take the given shape.

Using the template, draw a line on the ceiling along which the cut material is screwed. The protruding part of the frame is assembled from curved profiles connected by transverse fragments. They are made in length corresponding to the desired distance between ceiling levels.

The frame of a less protruding plane is assembled from profiles, fastening them with U-shaped or anchor suspensions. Sew up each part in turn with plasterboard, using the rules for assembling single-level structures.

To close the vertical gaps, you will need to cut the sheets into strips of appropriate sizes. If the surface is straight, it is enough to screw them to the vertical stiffeners.

But how to make suspended ceilings with a curved bend? The back side of the part must be cut with a wallpaper knife, the plaster base must be broken, while the front paper part must remain unharmed. The result will be a kind of tape with independent gypsum fragments, which will take any shape.

The assembled structure will need to be puttied. How to make the solution is written on the packaging. To prevent the seams from cracking, sickle tape is glued to them, and then a layer of putty is applied. After waiting for the composition to dry, the surface is sanded with an abrasive mesh.

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