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Peony is one of the most amazing and beautiful ornamental plants. This flower is second only to the rose - the real queen of the garden. Peony flowers are short-lived, but they can fill the garden with wonderful colors and magical aromas, and give its owner unforgettable emotions.

Peony flowers are very different; they differ in color, shape and have a charming aroma. Peonies are able to grow for many years, bringing real joy to their owners with their amazing flowers.

Peony remains a decoration of any garden even after flowering: its leaves are no less beautiful and attractive.

Homeland of the plant

This amazing flower was cultivated in China, as early as the 5th century BC. new era. Chinese emperors admired it. The first to be cultivated was Peony lactiflora, a plant common in China, Siberia and Mongolia. The name of this flower comes from the name of the legendary healer Paean, who was so skilled that he healed the wounds of gods and heroes.

This flower reached Europe quite late - in the 18th century and quickly became everyone's favorite. It took its rightful place in the royal gardens of Europe; hundreds of breeders began work on developing varieties. In the 19th century, the peony crossed the Atlantic and quickly conquered the New World.

General description of the flower

Peonies are a member of the Peony family. It includes 32 species.

Although, the tree peony, which is a symbol of China, grows up to two meters. Peonies have a powerful rhizome, with thickened, cone-shaped roots. Large leaves of rich green color are arranged alternately. The shape of the leaf plate is trifoliate or pinnate.

Peony flowers are large and single. The petals form a corolla. There are five sepals, most often there are also five petals. The petals have a very rich color palette. There can be up to eight pistils and many stamens.

Complexity, whimsicality, accessibility of cultivation

Growing peonies does not cause much trouble; the agricultural technology of peonies is not difficult even for not very skilled gardeners, provided that simple rules, these flowers will bring you joy for many years. This is another important reason for the wide popularity of peony.

Breeders have not deprived the peony of their attention: today several thousand varieties of the plant are known, and new ones are constantly appearing. There are several nuances that are important for peony growth.

Planting peonies in open ground. Optimal time

Autumn — best time for transplanting and planting peonies. It is not recommended to carry out these manipulations in the spring.

The most important thing when planting a plant is right choice places. You need to pay special attention to the following:

• Peony requires a minimum of five to six hours of intense sunlight.
• The flower does not tolerate drafts.
• It is better not to plant the plant in lowlands.
• Do not plant the peony too deep, it will not bloom well.

It is better to plant and replant peonies in early autumn. This will give the plant enough time to prepare for winter.

Prepare holes for planting. The hole should have dimensions of 60x60x60 cm. Place drainage (20 cm thick) and fertilizing consisting of humus, compost, lime, superphosphate and wood ash in the hole. Fill the hole to the top with a mixture of compost and soil. Once the soil has settled, you can begin planting the plant.

At the next stage, you should dig up the peony rhizome and do this very carefully. Better use a garden fork. You need to dig around the bush with them and remove the rhizome. Remove the soil and dry it. Then the rhizome should be divided into parts 15 cm long, containing roots and several buds. It is recommended to dip pieces of rhizome into a solution of potassium permanganate to destroy root rot.

Dipping rhizomes in a heteroauxin solution gives good results.

Remember, deep landing is one of the most common reasons lack of flowers. The top bud should not be deeper than 3-4 cm. In the first year, the peony blooms very rarely and does not look very healthy.

Planting in spring

Usually this plant is not planted in the spring. But if this is necessary, then it is better to do the following. Transplant the peony into a pot and place it in a cool room (cellar), keeping the soil moist at all times. In May, plant the plant directly in the pot, and in the fall, replant it along with the soil in which the root system is located. Planting should be done according to the method described above.

Preparing the soil and space in the garden

It is important to choose right place habitat of the plant, its growth depends on it. Choose a well-lit place for the flower, not far from the nearest bush or tree. Peonies grow normally in the shade, but bloom much worse. The landing site should not be flooded with water.

Peony is unpretentious plant, it does not cause unnecessary trouble for flower growers. However, there are nuances when growing it, you need to know them.

Peony can grow on any soil, but preference is given to loam (6-6.6 pH). Peony does not like wet soils, so do not plant it in lowlands. High humidity leads to rotting of the roots and death of the flower. If you did everything correctly, then you don’t have to fertilize the plant for a whole year. Provide the plant regular watering.

Spring care

In spring the plant needs abundant watering. You need to do it once a week, spending two buckets of water on each bush. Moisture is especially important during flower formation.

Autumn care

In autumn, you should remove all withered leaves and parts of stems and burn them, this way you are guaranteed to destroy pathogens. Then you need to cover each bush with ash and leave it to winter. Adult peonies do not need shelter.

Feeding and fertilizer

In the first year after planting, it is better not to get carried away with fertilizing. Then liquid forms of fertilizing are used. At the beginning of spring, nitrogen-potassium fertilizing is used; during the period of bud formation, fertilizing containing phosphorus and nitrogen is used. After its completion, potassium-phosphorus feeding is recommended; it can be continued until mid-autumn.

Watering

Peony requires not very frequent, but quite plentiful. It is recommended to water it once a week, but spend at least two buckets of water per bush.

Watering is extremely important during peony flowering. Insufficient watering is one of the main reasons for the lack of flowers. The water should get under the flower bush.

Illumination

Peonies are sun-loving plants and require 6 hours of sunlight. But it is better to avoid the southern parts of the garden, where the plant can get burned.

Temperature

Peonies are not too picky about temperature. They are quite suitable climatic conditions temperate zone.

Peonies are transplanted in early autumn. First choose the right place for planting and prepare a hole (this has already been discussed above).

To replant, you need to carefully dig up the peony rhizome, prepare a hole for it and place the plant in it. Apply sufficient fertilizer.

Reproduction

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method is used most often by flower growers. Have to take mature plant which was already blooming. Then the rhizome is carefully dug in and carefully removed from the ground. Rotten roots are removed, and the rhizome is divided into parts (the planting method is described in detail above). The ground part is almost completely cut off. Usually this work is carried out in early autumn. Cover the planting site with a layer of peat.

Propagation by root cuttings

Enough reliable way, it consists in planting part of the root into a hole. By winter it manages to take root and overwinters normally. But you will see the first flowers in a few years.

Propagation by seeds

Peonies can reproduce by seeds. True, the quality of the variety is not preserved. Growing peonies from seeds more often used by breeders.

The peony has a large single red, yellow, bright crimson or White flower. It can be terry, lush or resemble a rosette. Numerous yellow stamens are clearly visible. Flowers usually appear in May or early June.

There are several groups of peonies that differ in the structure of their flowers:

• Japanese. The stamens and pistils are located in the center of the flower, they form a kind of cluster (pompom).
• Non-double. The flowers are large, two rows of petals, the leaves are corrugated.
• Semi-double. The flowers are large, the stamens are in the center, there are several rows of petals.
• Anemoids. The lower petals are very wide, the inner petals form a ball. It is considered a transitional form between double and Japanese peonies.
• Terry. The flower has a spherical shape; when the petals open, a bright and colorful ball is obtained.
• Rose-shaped. The flowers are large, the petals strongly resemble rose petals.

After flowering ends, remove faded flowers and apply another fertilizing.

Trimming

It is worth pruning peonies in late autumn, before the first frost, but if you need to do this earlier, leave a few leaves on the bush so that the plant can accumulate strength.

Autumn pruning is carried out almost to the soil level.

Preparing peonies for winter

In autumn, when the leaves turn yellow, you need to gradually reduce the intensity of watering. Newly planted plants should be covered with a layer of peat, and they will overwinter well. Peat should be removed in spring. Old plants are frost-resistant and there will be no problems with their wintering either.

Popular varieties of peonies

Breeders have done a great job; today there are a large number of peony varieties. The variety of these flowers allows you to create amazing flower beds, arranging them with flowers of different colors and sizes.

It is impossible to name all the varieties of peonies that are deservedly popular among gardeners. Let's give just a few examples.

1. Variety "Starlight". They have large, light cream-colored, anemone-shaped flowers.
2. Variety "Susie Ku". Huge double flowers are painted in a pleasant light pink color. The leaves are small and narrow.
3. Variety "Western". It has medium-sized white flowers of Japanese form. It blooms relatively late.
4. Variety "White Bowl". It has medium-sized flowers, dark pink in color.
5. Variety "Amabilis". The plant has light pink flowers, the petals of which turn white at the edges when flowering ends.

The thin-leaved peony deserves special mention - a plant that has been bred by gardeners for several decades. This peony is listed in the Red Book, but among gardeners it is at the top of its popularity.

ITO hybrids are also very popular: they are the result of crossing tree-like and grass-like peonies. An excellent example of such plants is

"Coral Sunset"

Another peony that is a frequent visitor to our gardens is Peony Bartzell. This beautiful plant with Japanese-shaped flowers, bright lemon color.

Peony diseases

The most dangerous enemies of peonies are diseases caused by microscopic fungi. Here are the main ones:

• rust;
• gray rot;
• powdery mildew;
• brown spot.

Appears in May and affects leaves, stems and buds. A symptom of gray rot is a gray coating on the plant organs. It is better to burn the affected parts. Effective means are copper sulfate and fungicides.

Powdery mildew. A whitish coating forms on the stems and leaves. Fungicides are used to treat the disease.

Rust. The disease is characterized by the formation of dark brown spots. The disease leads to curling and drying of the leaf plate. Fungicides are used to treat the disease.

Brown spot also appears in the form of specific spots on leaves, parts of the stem and buds. They are off-white in color. The disease is dangerous and causes leaves to fall off. This disease is treated with fungicides.

The main problems faced by beginning flower growers

Why doesn't peony grow?

A flower may grow poorly due to a number of reasons: incorrect choice landing sites (little light), insufficient mineral supplement or insufficient watering. Also, unsatisfactory growth is observed in the case of transplantation without dividing the rhizome.

Why doesn't peony bloom?

The absence of flowers on the plant most likely indicates improper planting of the rhizome. It's probably planted too deep. Also, the lack of flowers is caused by poor soil and lack of fertilizing, poor lighting of the plant, and insufficient watering during the formation of buds. Plants that are too old do not bloom.

Why doesn't the peony sprout?

The germination of peonies depends on the quality of the seed material, as well as the degree of soil preparation.

Peony is a beautiful and long-lived perennial with large fragrant flowers. If the gardener does not know why peonies do not bloom, what to do in this situation, then it is useful to consider everything possible reasons. These could be errors during planting, improper care, or lack of nutrients.

New leaves grow, but there are no buds, or they fall off without blooming. This situation should not be surprising in the first year of planting. There is a simple and natural explanation - biological features plants. Nutrients accumulate and the root system forms.

Some varieties of peonies do not bloom fully in the second year after planting. Flowers should appear in the third year normal size, but for some cultivars this process is postponed for another year. Underdeveloped buds must be removed. After a year or two, you can leave the large ones and cut off the small ones, the side ones.

Sometimes buds do not appear in the second and third years after transplantation. The fragile bush was exhausted and did not adapt to the conditions of the new place. Often the lack of flowers is explained by incorrect actions during planting and replanting.

Reasons why a plant does not bloom

Poor planting location and improper deepening of the growing point are the two most common mistakes. The conditions on the site do not correspond to the biology of the plant, but gardeners may not know about this, or do not pay attention to it.

Wrong choice of location

Peonies come from subtropical climates where sunny weather prevails and there is enough moisture all year round. The area where the plants are planted may be too shaded or dry for them.

Peonies prefer good lighting, open areas, but without drafts. With a lack of light, the number of buds is reduced or they do not appear at all.

Peonies are often planted too close to trees and shrubs, near walls and fences. Shading prevents development herbaceous plant, and the roots are more large species take water and nutrients from the soil. In such conditions, getting flowers is problematic. The proximity to trees is favorable when creating openwork shade for herbaceous perennials, good watering and regular fertilizing.

Large bushes produce many leaves that constantly require moisture. Therefore, too dry or waterlogged soil on the site is not suitable. Stagnation of water near the roots contributes to rotting and the spread of diseases. The composition of the soil is also important - peonies require a pH of no less than 5.8 and no more than 7.

Interesting fact: peonies on heavy loams and black soils bloom more brightly and live longer. Bushes planted on lungs sandy soils, bloom earlier, but quickly become obsolete.

Errors when planting a peony

Growth buds should be at a depth of 3–5 cm. If they deviate in one direction or another, the plant does not bloom. Too much close location to the soil surface is dangerous for the peony - the buds freeze out. Strong deepening of the growing point lengthens the period of shoot formation and forces the plant to waste the energy necessary for flowering.

Improper care

The appearance of a bud followed by its drying out is a sign of mineral starvation. After feeding, the peony will gain strength and bloom next year. You should not “feed” the bushes. Excess nitrogen fertilizers stimulates abundant growth of leaves, buds do not appear or open poorly and dry out. Peonies are fed at certain times, best after flowering, when new buds form.

Mistakes with watering or prolonged rains cause the buds to get very wet. They do not bloom, become saturated with water and acquire Brown color. Drought prevents flowers from developing and reduces the number of buds that give rise to shoots for the next year.

Main mistakes when propagating peony

Spring replanting is undesirable, because the plant will definitely shed its buds. There are other violations of agricultural cultivation techniques that negatively affect flowering. The division of the bush is carried out at the end of summer and early autumn. The planting hole is made deep - at least 0.7 m.

An adult bush has a powerful root system, supplying ground organs. However, the roots of older plants may rot. When the intensity of flowering of an adult peony decreases, the bush is dug up and inspected. If there are healthy buds on the roots, they are divided into parts and transplanted to another area.

It is not advisable to grow a peony in one place for too long. After transplant young plant allowed to grow stronger for 5–6 years.

Main mistakes when propagating peony:

• Planting small or too large divisions
• Wrong choice of work deadline
• Dividing a bush under 5 years of age
• Planting cuttings in place of the mother bush

When replanting a peony, divisions with 3–5 reddish shoots bloom faster. Economical option- a root with 1-2 buds - will only lead to the fact that flowering will begin later than after 2 years.

What to do if peonies don't grow?

Peony's annual abundant flowering depends on good care. This does not mean that you need to spend your days and nights in the garden. The less the peony is disturbed, the faster it accumulates nutrients and creates a microclimate in the depths of the powerful bush.

The peony should not be disturbed in the spring during the period of work to remove old leaves and debris. If you are careless, you can injure the buds and roots of the plant. Watering is carried out 3-4 times per season (taking into account the amount of atmospheric moisture). The soil is loosened and weeds are removed around the bush. If necessary, tie them down or install supports.

After flowering, the plant also needs care, as next year's shoots are being laid.

In autumn, the leaves are cut off just before frost at a height of 10 cm above the soil. The above-ground parts of the plant are not used for compost, so as not to spread fungal and bacterial diseases. Branches and leaves are burned or otherwise destroyed.

How to feed peonies to improve flowering

Additional nutrition is necessary for young and adult plants. Mineral and organic fertilizers mixed with soil and added to the planting hole, so in the first two years the peony needs less feeding. After three years of life, the plant requires additional feeding for normal flowering.

Mineral fertilizer application plan:

1. In early spring, potassium-nitrogen fertilizer is scattered on the melting snow around the bush. They dissolve well and penetrate to the awakened roots.
2. During the budding period, apply under each bush. complex fertilizer, for example ammophoska.
3. Two weeks after flowering, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is applied, which is most important for the formation of new buds. You can feed with phosphorus and potassium in the fall, the nutrient will gradually penetrate into the soil.

Organic fertilizer for peonies

The plants are fed with slurry diluted with water. However, excess nitrogen in this organic fertilizer causes the bushes to overgrow. Folk remedy to replenish the supply of nutrients - fermented rye bread. Half the loaf is cut and soaked in water for ½ day. The result is a thick mass, which is diluted in a bucket of water. Water the solution on young shoots that appear on the surface of the earth in spring. Such feeding will have a beneficial effect on peony flowering this year and next year.

After correcting the errors that delay flowering, the peony bushes will begin to consistently delight you with the splendor of their blossoming buds for at least 10 years. This will require regular watering and prevention of so-called care diseases.

There is frost and snow outside, and we can already feel the approach of spring - soon the store shelves will be filled with long-awaited plants, and the receipt of ordered roots and seedlings will begin. For inexperienced flower growers, this time is quite difficult - after all, you don’t just need to purchase planting material, and skillfully preserve it until planting.

When purchasing peonies in the spring, we usually experience very conflicting feelings: we really want to buy them and remember the recommendation to plant them only in the fall. Indeed, we always plant peonies in the fall, because at the end of August - beginning of September, peonies are dug up and divided. In September we plant the purchased peony section on permanent place.

Lately we have been talking more and more often about spring planting. This is explained by the fact that peonies come to us from Europe exactly at this time. Apparently this is more profitable for gardening companies importing peonies to Russia. But there is no reason to worry. Peony has two periods of growth of suction roots - in autumn (August-September) and spring (April-May). If in the fall we plant a piece of wood in the ground, in a permanent place, then in the spring, when we buy it in February-March (at this time, “foreign things” usually arrive), we cannot plant it in the ground - it is still frozen, so we plant it in pots. The size of the pots is 2-3 liters depending on the size of the division. And we keep the peonies in a cool, dark place (cellar, basement, glassed-in loggia, garage) until warm weather. I would like to warn you that in spring you can buy peonies with an open root system no later than the end of March. In April May, as soon as possible, we dig in pots of peonies in the garden. This way they can be kept until autumn. Over the summer, it will be possible to prepare a place for planting, lay planting holes in advance, and then, by transshipment, without disturbing the clod of earth, plant the peony in a permanent place. You can plant it in place without waiting for the fall (as a rule, that’s what I do).

Passing the peony at the end of May, you will see that the earthen lump is entangled in white suction roots. This eloquently indicates that the peony has taken root and has something to eat and absorb water. But you should not keep a peony in a pot for more than a year. The suction roots will grow, but the rhizome practically does not grow. If such a need arises, it is necessary to increase feeding and ensure that diseases do not develop (most often, gray rot).

The only thing you need to remember is that if during autumn planting you only need to prepare the planting holes in advance, then during spring planting you need to additionally prepare:

• pots 2-3 liters (usually 3 liters)
• earth (best purchased, it is cleaner and lighter)

It is necessary to consider the storage location and the possibility of weekly monitoring of plants, control temperature regime(optimally +1-2 degrees). Watering as such is not necessary, but the soil in the pots should not dry out. If the soil is dry, I cover the top of the pot with snow; when it melts, it moistens the soil. The emerging sprouts do not suffer from this. Coolness and darkness will inhibit the growth of the above-ground part of the peony, which in our garden begins to sprout in the second half of April.

IN Lately Interest in tree peonies is also beginning to grow. They no longer seem like wonders and sissies to us, but in order not to overshadow the pleasure of a pleasant purchase, we should adhere to certain rules. We have tree peonies with an open root system begin to be sold from the end of February in large garden centers and stores. At this time, planting material is received from European and Chinese gardening companies. Despite the snow outside the window, this is the best time to buy good, fresh seedlings of tree peonies, which, unfortunately, closer to April will have overdried buds and roots. If you bought a peony in February-March, the seedling should be immediately planted in a pot. It is good to add a mixture of ash and sand to the grafting site, this will protect it from rotting.

If the buds have not woken up, you should store it in a cool, dark place. If the buds wake up and begin to grow, place the peony pot on the window. Optimal conditions content – ​​maximum illumination and low air temperature. To lengthen daylight hours, it is useful to backlight for 2-3 hours. You can also keep it in the refrigerator (but not advisable). To do this, wrap the plant in sphagnum moss and pack it in plastic bag. Inspect and ventilate periodically. When kept in a pot by summer, the seedling will develop suction roots, and it will be possible to transplant it to a permanent place in the garden by transshipment. But still, the best time to plant a tree peony with an open root system is the end of August - September.

During the warmer months, garden centers sell tree peonies in pots. Peonies purchased with a closed root system (in a pot) can be planted throughout the growing season.

When the last doubts have been cast aside and you are ready to plunge into the whirlpool of garden shopping, still do not lose your head and remember that

• You should not purchase overdried peonies with blackened and dried buds;
• You shouldn’t believe sellers’ promises that the peony’s dormant buds will awaken (this may not happen)
• do not expect to “reanimate” a hopeless peony division with the help of growth stimulants;
• do not fall for bright labels that promise you “blue and black” peonies - there are no such things in nature, and this is just the art of Photoshop;
• do not buy yellow peonies at very high prices low prices- these are the tricks of sellers selling re-sorted goods.

Currently, the range of peonies is quite large and, if desired, you can buy any variety you like. Therefore, you should not buy a product of questionable quality, even at a very attractive price.

The tree peony does not grow.

1. Incorrect landing.

Tree peony prefers light, nutritious soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. Soils that are acidic, peaty, clayey, swampy, or heavy are not suitable for them. Does not tolerate stagnation of water or direct contact of roots with humus. Too shallow planting has a bad effect on the condition of the plant - it is better to deepen it, this contributes to better preservation of renewal buds in winter and the formation of new shoots and roots. Very common error when buying peonies with a closed root system: when planting, do not loosen the earthen ball and do not straighten the curled roots. As a result, the roots remain in the same position and cannot develop normally. Preferably buy peonies with an open root system, which allows you to objectively assess its condition, and in case of any problems, take action immediately.

You should not plant a peony on the north side of buildings, near a drain, in the shade, in windy places, in depressions of the microrelief, where cold air and water stagnate. If the groundwater level is high (above 2 meters), drainage will be required in the planting pit.

In our damp climate, various fungal diseases cause great harm to peonies - gray and white rot, affecting the bases of leaves, leaf spots. They need to be combated by spraying with fungicides at the beginning of growth and the appearance of leaves (first treatment), budding (second) and the end of flowering (third). Copper preparations are usually recommended for processing - 60-70 grams copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, foundation - 20-30 grams per 10 liters of water.

Larvae chafer, mole crickets, wireworms and other earth-burrowing creatures not only damage the root system themselves, they also contribute to the infection of the roots with various rots.

In any case, in the spring you should carefully dig up the bush and carefully examine it for diseases and pest damage. If there are any, cut out the damaged areas with a sharp knife, powder the sections with crushed coal or foundation. Treatment with the biostimulator Epin has a very good effect on the well-being of plants. The main thing is to take Belarusian Epin, preferably produced by the Institute of Bioorganic Chemistry, not Russian.

Yes. If your small bush suddenly decides to bloom, do not remove the bud under any circumstances, no matter how “dead” the plant may seem! This will stop its development and the formation of new leaves. Unlike our ordinary peonies, flowering in the first year is the norm for tree peonies.

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tree peony

The times when peonies were an inaccessible rarity are long gone.

Now anyone in almost any large garden center can buy a box with a beautiful picture and, for a thousand of their hard-earned rubles, try to find out what it is tree peony.

In this article we will tell you what needs to be done so that one day it grows into what the stunning photograph on the packaging promises.

It is no coincidence that tree peonies have become the darlings of landscape fashion and deservedly so. These are true aristocrats of the garden, combining the advantages of a flower and a shrub.

tree peony amazingly combines the pampered luxury of flowering and real power. This is, if you like, a “masculine” plant, very strong and reliable, which is perhaps why it often attracts the attention of men.

Appearance of a tree peony

Unlike the herbaceous peony, the above-ground part of which dies off annually, tree peony is a shrub. Its annual growth becomes woody and overwinters, as this happens, for example, in a rose.

Tree peony bushes can reach a height of 1.5-2 meters, however, this will take at least twenty years.

The foliage of the tree peony is also very decorative. and is quite different from different varieties. Thus, in plants with dark-colored flowers, the leaves usually have a pronounced dark purple tint.

But, of course, the most amazing thing about this plant is its incomparable luxury of flowers. In modern peony varieties tree flowers reach a diameter of 25-30 cm; unlike the herbaceous peony, they come in all shades yellow color, bloom somewhat earlier than early flowering varieties of herbaceous peony.

Particularly impressive are terry varieties with an open, “golden mean”, consisting of numerous stamens, pubescent with abundant pollen. There are forms with double and semi-double flowers, the color varies from greenish-white to purple-black, including all shades of pink, lilac, red, yellow and even blue.

Flowering lasts two to three weeks depending on the weather and usually occurs in the Moscow region for the first half of June, that is, for a time traditionally “poor” in flowers, when the bulbous plants are already fading, and annuals and most perennials are just gathering strength.

Longevity and wintering of tree peony

There is another feature of tree peonies - their longevity. A tree peony can live in one place without transplantation for decades.

In Moscow, for example, behind the Sklifosovsky Institute there is a small Botanical Garden, created in the times of Peter the Great as an apothecary garden. This is a place with its own interesting story. One of its pages shows tree-like peonies, one and a half meters tall, planted in the 19th century. Not every tree can boast such a life expectancy.

But, as they say, our shortcomings are a continuation of our advantages.

Tree peonies are unpretentious, disease-resistant, winter-hardy, and have a large reserve of vitality.

However, it should be taken into account that they grow quite slowly and are very sensitive to transplants. These features must be taken into account both when choosing a place for them in the garden, it is advisable to determine it once and for all, and when preparing landing pit.

It is important to make your choice regarding winter shelter. In the wild, tree peonies grow in China, in areas with cold, snowy winters and dry, hot summers, so our winter does not frighten them too much.

In the spring, tree-like shoots that have spent the winter without shelter may look completely lifeless; do not rush to conclusions, wait for the onset of stable warmth. The plant that was in in good condition in the fall, you will not lose in almost any case winter conditions. Even if all the perennial woody shoots freeze, with the onset of stable warmth, new buds on the root collar will awaken and new shoots will appear from the ground.

You haven’t lost the peony, but there won’t be any flowering, and there won’t be for two years. The shoots must grow, become woody, and form flower buds; all this takes time. The peony has a lot of it, it lives for a hundred years.

So decide for yourself what your peony should do: bloom calmly, having overwintered, wrapped in spruce branches under the reliable cover of an overturned bucket or box or to grow heroically if suddenly the next winter freezes everything that has grown in five years.

Unfortunately, it is the most spectacular modern hybrid varieties that are most vulnerable. Since the further the path from wild ancestors, those more beautiful flower, but the resistance to unfavorable factors inherent in wild species is less.

Let us mention our own experience. During one of the rather cold winters with early frosts, not a single peony froze in our garden, and almost all of them bloomed. When the frost hit -25°C, we covered them with cardboard boxes, this was enough for them, the roses all froze under the same conditions.

So, you have decided to plant a tree peony in your garden.

Buying a tree peony

The ideal landing unit is a plant with two or three woody shoots no more than 25 cm high, dormant, that is, with unopened buds.

The buds should be quite large, most often they are dark red in color and glossy. You should treat them very carefully, because if they break off or do not open, your peony may bloom a couple of years later.

If you purchase a peony with an open root system, be sure to ask the seller for permission to examine the roots of the seedling. The tree peony not only grows slowly, it also dies for a long time and a hopeless seedling with a damaged, rotten or too small root system can still look quite healthy for a long time.

If the plant you choose has well-developed roots, they should be approximately equal in length to the crown. Do not try to buy large bushes or bushes with long shoots ( we're talking about about the open root system), all tree peonies painfully take root in a new place, and the larger the transplanted plant, the longer the period of its adaptation.

Usually a normally developed seedling 25-30 cm high blooms in the second or third year after planting, in the first year he often looks somewhat depressed, don’t be upset, this is quite natural.

The leaves may be small and even somewhat dried out; it is important that the buds in the axils and especially the upper buds of the shoots are kept alive. Next year, your pet will settle into a new place and quickly catch up.

There is one more detail that would be good to know when buying a tree peony - Is it rooted or grafted onto the roots of a herbaceous peony.

Self-rooted plants are more resistant to unfavorable conditions environment and more durable.

Planting a tree peony

For landing preferably a sunny place sheltered from the wind. The last circumstance is important, since by the beginning of June the plant has already grown a large leaf mass, and if it is constantly blown about by the wind, this can adversely affect growth and establishment flower buds, not to mention the flowering time, when the bush is covered with huge heavy caps of flowers.

Tree peonies prefer permeable loams, but they grow on almost any soil, especially since it is necessary to prepare a planting hole for them, providing the plant with everything necessary for several decades to come.

It is best to prepare the hole in advance, no less than 2-3 weeks before planting. The pit should be 60-70 cm deep, with an area of ​​80×80 cm, a drainage layer of sand is poured onto the bottom), a layer of 15-20 cm, then a layer of old weathered manure.

The plant is planted in a soil mixture of the following composition: humus, peat, upper layer earth in equal parts with the addition of ash, bone meal and superphosphate 100-200 g.

After thorough mixing, you pour part of the mixture into the hole and plant the peony on the resulting cone in the hole, carefully spreading the roots over the surface of the cone. Then pour the remaining soil mixture on top. As a result, the root collar should be almost flush with the edges of the hole.

After watering and the soil settling, you can hill up the root collar to a low depth of 3-4 cm, avoiding its contact with manure or humus.

Planting in a pot

Landing in the ground

The best time to plant tree peonies is from mid-August to mid-September, but they are usually sold in the spring.

If you purchased your peony in the spring, it is best to plant it in a large pot with nutritious garden soil and place it in the garden with the onset of stable warmth. When you prepare the planting hole, you can lower the pot with the peony directly into it, and in the fall, when the plant enters its dormant period, carefully transfer it with lump into the prepared hole, while maintaining its orientation to the cardinal points.

Cover well with the first frost. trunk circle peonies with a layer of peat. Manure, shavings and straw are best avoided.

Tree peony care

Peonies do not require any special care.

The best fertilizers for them it is ash and bone meal, manure is undesirable. It can be placed around the bushes when the snow melts.

In the snow you can also apply mineral fertilizers- nitrogen potassium and phosphorus 1:1:2. A second feeding can be given after flowering, preferably phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or Kemira chlorine-free fertilizer.

During the summer watered generously 2-3 times, this can be combined with fertilization; from the beginning of August, watering is not advisable.

After flowering It is necessary not only to remove the faded bud, but also to trim 2 buds lower, this promotes full growth and flowering.

Peony pruning after flowering

In our conditions, the tree peony bush is most convenient to maintain formative pruning at a height level of 70-80 this allows you to achieve abundant flowering(from 30 to 50 flowers) and cover the plant in very harsh winters.

flowers.cveti-sadi.ru

Why does the tree peony not bloom?

Most frequently asked question, which is asked by the happy owners of tree peonies: “ Why has my peony been sitting for many years and still not blooming?" Most likely, they were planted incorrectly and did not provide proper care.

Growing tree peony

Grow tree peony easy, but long: bushes grow in one place for up to a hundred years. In China, there are centuries-old and even older plants that are protected by law.

Rules for planting a tree peony: how to plant a peony correctly?

IN middle lane The best time to plant a tree peony is the end of August - beginning of September. Cuttings are planted in summer.
Choose a place protected from the wind in partial shade; in such conditions, flowering will last longer. In case of forced planting of a tree peony on sunny place You can plant shading trees or tall shrubs nearby, and until the peonies grow to the desired size, water additionally. However, too close proximity of a peony to large trees and shrubs is harmful - the plants will compete. Stagnation of water is unacceptable; if there is such a threat, peonies are planted on special planting hills.
To the soils tree peony is not demanding, but prefers slightly alkaline substrates, it is useful to add dolomite flour.
When planting, make sure that the root collar is at ground level or slightly lower. After planting, the soil around the bush is mulched. Don't use sawdust coniferous species and pine needles as a mulching material, soil acidification is possible.

Feeding and watering tree peony: when, with what and how much?

Tree peonies begin to be fertilized from the 2nd–3rd year. At the end of April, before flowering, feed with any complex mineral fertilizer with medium or low nitrogen content. When applying fertilizing, you should not focus on organic fertilizers, much less apply fresh manure. But the addition of wood ash will be very useful for peonies. After flowering, peonies cut off faded shoots and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
In case of improper planting, the weak plant needs to be fed in the first year. But you should not use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content: an excess can lead to damage to the bush by gray rot.
Tree peonies are watered rarely, but abundantly.

Rules for pruning tree peonies

In the spring, carry out light sanitary pruning, shorten the remaining branches by 10–15 cm and cut out weak, dry and thickening shoots. Chinese flower growers recommend rejuvenating the peony bush every 15–20 years by cutting it almost to the stump.

Frost resistance of tree peonies

The tree peony is quite resistant; even if damaged by frost, it is restored due to the appearance of new shoots from adventitious buds. However, in case of protection from a snowless winter, it is advisable to arrange a light airy shelter from agrofabric or spruce branches.

Diseases and pests of peonies: what to protect against and how to treat tree peonies?

The tree peony is quite resistant to disease. The greatest danger to peonies is gray rot, the appearance of which is usually caused by excess nitrogen. Peonies first appear on the shoots and leaves brown spots, which become deformed and dry out. The affected peony leaves are cut off and burned, the bush is treated with fungicides (for example, Bordeaux mixture), the mulch or top layer of soil is replaced.

Varieties of tree peonies are divided into three groups:

?Chinese-European peonies– with double, large flowers. Color – from pale pink to bright fuchsia;
?Japanese varieties peonies– the flowers are not so large, lighter and rise above the leaves on strong peduncles.
?Hybrids of yellow peony and Delaway peony– the most popular group of peonies with yellow flowers.

Peony Rock

This is one of the types of tree peonies, which differ from “ordinary” peonies in their higher winter hardiness. Endurance is conditioned natural conditions, in which they developed, their homeland is the mountainous regions of Tibet with rather harsh conditions. In Russia, Rock peonies have a great future, since many varieties can winter at a temperature of -43 ° C without shelter.

Buying tree peony seedlings: what is better to choose?

Seedlings are sold aged from one to 4–5 years, with an open root system and in containers. It is important to accurately determine whether they are rooted or grafted.
Rooted tree peonies very viable, winter well and resistant to diseases, renewal buds are formed not only on the root collar, but also in the upper part of the roots, which allows the bush to actively recover even with severe frosting of the above-ground part. They reproduce easily by division, but grow slowly during the first five years. They bloom only 4–5 years after planting.
Grafted tree peonies They can bloom already in the year of planting, since the rootstock for them is herbaceous varieties.
Unlike self-rooted plants, they grow quickly, but are not as durable, do not reproduce by dividing the bush, and are less resistant to transplantation.
Externally, these bushes can be distinguished by their roots: in self-rooted ones they are numerous, long and relatively thin, in grafted ones they are thick, since these are root tubers of herbaceous peony.

Tree peony seedlings with an open root system (OKS)

Try growing several plants: while your own roots grow, your grafted ones will bloom. In addition, as the grafted peony matures, the side shoots develop their own roots. Plants can be planted, having received their own planting material with all the characteristics of the variety. In addition, you can get a rooted plant from a grafted peony by layering a shoot. The technique is the same as with currants or roses: in the spring, a young woody shoot is bent down, buried in the ground and fixed. Next year the branch will sprout its own shoot.

When purchasing tree peony seedlings, please note:

• ?country of origin. Bushes from European nurseries may not be winter-hardy enough in our climate;
• ?there should be 2–4 woody shoots on the bush with living buds no more than 20–25 cm high.

Peony exhibitions around the world and in China

The Chinese city of Luoyang is considered the capital of peonies, and its coat of arms features a peony. At the end of April, flower shows take place in Luoyang's parks and gardens, attracting thousands of visitors from all over the world. At the National Flower Garden In Luoyang National Flower Garden, visitors admire the blooming of more than 200 cultivars. Most famous: 150-year-old Changsouhong ) – red peony and 120-year-old Changsouzi – purple peony.

The Japanese way of growing tree peonies: how to get a flowering bush in winter?

The Japanese slopes, covered with flowering caps in the spring, can be called a classic. Traditionally, the Chinese plant peonies near artificial ponds or in rows on narrow embankment terraces, which create a stunning decorative effect.
Every January, the Japanese also admire peonies in a small temple garden in Ueno Park. For this, plants have been prepared since the spring of the previous year. Young bushes aged from three to six years are planted in pots and kept at rest in the summer: in the dark at a temperature of about +7 °C. In September, the pots are placed in cold greenhouses. When leaves and buds appear, the pots are taken out into the garden and dug into the ground. Thatched houses are placed on top. On frosty nights, additionally place pots with smoldering coals nearby.

Thus, the Japanese admire the flowering of peonies from January to May!

Illustrations for the material: Shutterstock/TASS, Gastronom Publishing House LLC/Yulia Kaptelova, Oleg Kulagin, Anna Bershadskaya, Olga Petina.

Medicinal properties of tree peony

Tree peonies have long been valued in China for their rare medicinal properties: tonic, anti-inflammatory and wound healing. They are included in many traditional Chinese medicines. For example, with the help of preparations from the roots, kidney and liver functions are restored in case of hepatitis. In China and Japan, roots, petals and pollen of peonies are supplied from special farms to pharmaceutical companies.

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Reproduction of peonies (tree-like, herbaceous), photos, care details and why they don’t bloom

Planting, propagation and care of peonies, companions for these flowers

Peonies are not difficult to care for. They need regular loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing. If you properly prepare the soil for planting, young plants will grow and develop normally in the first two years without the application of mineral fertilizers.

It is believed that throughout history breeding work with peonies, up to 100 thousand varieties could be obtained. Today, the official register includes more than 5,000 registered varieties of herbaceous peonies alone.

Peonies don't bloom - why and what to do

So, why peonies don’t bloom are the most common reasons.

Bad landing site

The area may be too shady, too dry, or, conversely, too wet, with stagnant water. Perhaps the peony bush grows too close to trees providing shade or, for example, to the wall of a house. In this case, it is necessary to replant the plant. Peony prefers a lot of light. Strong shading of the peony, even for a couple of hours a day, significantly reduces the abundance and splendor of peony flowering.

If peonies are planted near the walls of outbuildings or a house, they will also suffer from dripping, snowdrifts, which are larger than usual, and if this is the wall of a house, then from overheating.

Planting peonies near trees or large shrubs is fraught with a lack of water and nutrition: minerals. Despite the fact that more frequent feeding and watering will help improve the situation, it is better to plant peonies from such places.

Also remember that peonies absolutely cannot tolerate any waterlogging; they will begin to rot.

Poor soil composition

Peonies do not like excessive soil acidity, against which the soil must be limed. Plants feel best at a pH of 6.5 (not less than 5.8 and not more than 7). To increase the pH by one, you need to add 350 g/m2 of lime. A lack of potassium can also affect the lack of flowering. On potassium-poor podzolic soils, bushes need to be fed 1-2 times with potassium sulfate (10-15 g/m2) or potassium magnesia (15-20 g/m2). Below is a table that will allow you to accurately calculate required amount fertilizers applied for peonies (and not only for them)

Poor planting division of peonies

If the division is too small (one or two buds), then in the first year of the growing season the peony will take minerals for growth from old, large roots, while new ones will not form.

If, on the contrary, the division is too large, then there will be an imbalance between powerful roots and the number of buds. For example, if the division has a large number of buds but few roots, actively growing and vegetative shoots will starve

Improper feeding of peonies

Sometimes peonies are simply fed with fertilizers, especially nitrogen.

When growing peonies, remember this rule: it is better to “underfeed” these flowers than to “overfeed”. However, the lack of fertilizing is visible by such a sign as the appearance of buds that do not fully open and do not bloom in the usual way.

It is better to feed peonies with fertilizers immediately after they have bloomed, when buds are actively forming, which will bloom in two years.

Incorrect watering, humidification mode

Peonies are at risk from prolonged weather with rain during the budding period: at this time, the buds are saturated with water, do not bloom, and may turn brown.

More often than not, flowers already affected by gray mold suffer from this, so it is very important to carry out sanitary and preventive treatments against diseases and pests.

In turn, during the budding period, drought is also dangerous. At this time, peonies need rare watering, which moistens the soil to the entire depth of the roots. Drought after flowering will also reduce the number of flowers for the following year.

Incorrect cropping

You can cut off the wilted part of the peony only in late autumn. In July-August, the plants are affected by gray rot, and some cut off the entire above-ground part of the bush, thinking that since the plant has already bloomed, it no longer needs foliage. This is a very serious mistake in the process of caring for and growing peonies, since after flowering the flower buds are laid.

It happens that gardeners cut flowers too often and in large quantities.

Viral diseases of peonies

Signs of a bush disease - the crown stretches (the stems grow thin and branched) and the leaves become curly and wrinkled, the shoots become leafy very often. The peony looks dwarf. Such bushes are dug up and destroyed.

Subtleties of caring for peonies

How do herbaceous and tree peonies prepare for winter?

Preparing peonies for winter involves feeding them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to strengthen the root system. Despite the fact that adult tree peonies and Ito hybrids are quite frost-resistant, it is better to cover them for the winter - wrap the branches with agrofibre or other fabric and do not open them until spring, until the morning frosts have ended.

Flower buds of tree peonies are afraid of cold winds: because of them, they may simply not bloom.

The plants can be covered with spruce forest, and the root part can be covered with earth. This will allow the tree peony to send out additional shoots from below, and the bush will become more spreading over time.

Both herbaceous and tree-like peonies must be rid of leaves for the winter.

If suddenly it lasts a long time warm weather, the leaves should be removed - herbaceous peonies should be cut at the root, and for tree-like peonies, the leaf cuttings should be left at 1/3.

If the peonies suddenly become ill with something, the bushes and the ground around them should be treated with appropriate agrochemicals for the winter.

Do peonies need to be trimmed?

No, peonies do not need pruning.

Peonies only need decorative pruning, for example, if a branch is broken or a shoot is frozen.

For the winter, the leafy ground part of herbaceous peonies needs to be removed, but this is done along with regular garden cleaning in preparation for winter.

However, there is a point regarding tree peonies, namely adults already flowering bushes. If you want the plants to bloom especially luxuriantly next year, you should - after the peonies have bloomed and formed seed pods - cut each branch from the top 3 buds down.

Then a flower bud will form on the 4th bud. This is done with all the branches on the bush, leaving only one seed pod. Next year you will receive many beautiful flowers.

Better companion flowers for peonies

It's hard to imagine a May garden without peonies. The lush thickets of wildly flowering bushes are awe-inspiring. The unusual smells emanating from the inflorescences enchant, forcing you to listen and unravel the subtle melodies of aromas again and again...

It is for their vigorous, albeit short-lived flowering that they try to include peonies in flower arrangements, borders and front gardens.

Using the example of a flower garden created by designer E. Voronova, we will tell you how to get friendly flowering and emphasize the beauty of peonies with a worthy plant frame.

This popular plants can be difficult to find appropriate place. They love the sun, but at the same time it would be good to protect the plantings from the heat of the day.

They need wet soil, but when the root system becomes soaked, diseases appear. The best place for this culture - the eastern side of the building, with a distance from the wall (blind area) of at least one meter.

If the area is flooded by upper waters or is located nearby groundwater, then peonies are planted on a mound, in raised flower beds.

In our composition, peonies are dispersed over the surface of a small artificial slope directed from the wall of the house to the lawn. The edge of the slope is a paved path, which also prevents the spread of lawn grasses into the flower garden.

Peonies and companions

Planting species with different flowering periods makes it possible to prolong the overall flowering of peonies, so we

officinalis peony and garden peony varieties were planted. Both species, having densely double flowers, are similar in appearance, but differ in flowering times by a week. Fassin's catnip was chosen as the main accompanying plants.

The listed species produced powerful, abundantly flowering small flowers waves that filled the space between the peony bushes. Additional plants were bellflower and Carpathian bellflower. They add variety and enrich the tonal palette.

A little white color, separating the variegation of the inflorescences, was obtained by adding fennel bushes by spot planting.

Unlike the inflorescences of white varieties of peonies, this plant is not bright accent. Its numerous inflorescences, intertwined with catnip inflorescences, give the effect of sea foam.

A flower garden is convenient because you can always add something to it. To be convinced of this, just look at the spring flower garden, where against the background of soil mulched with bark, you can see the area actually occupied by plants.

So, in the years following the creation of the flower garden, the main assortment was replenished with forest sage, decorative onions, brunnera, Griffith's spurge, physiostegia, and liatris.

At some point, it became clear that in the summer, after the flowering of peonies, there was not enough color, and thuja western "Yellow Ribbon" and Thunberg barberry "Atropurpurea" appeared along the edges, and on in the background is Japanese spirea.

IN winter period besides woody plants The flower garden can be decorated with unpruned dried bushes of Fassin's catnip in autumn.

Flower garden care

Peonies are drought-resistant, but in the spring, during budding, after flowering and in the fall, they require abundant but infrequent watering. Watering will not harm other plants, especially damselfish.

In early spring, add mulch and apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers under the plants, after mixing them with compost soil. During the budding of peonies, install supports under terry varieties. After flowering, trim the flower stalks of peonies so that the plants do not waste energy on ripening the seeds. Mantle and catnip may require pruning of flowering stems in the summer.

In autumn, cut off the aboveground part of perennials, cover peonies with spruce branches or cut stems. In early spring, thuja may require protection from the scorching sun.

As you can see, the to-do list is small, and given that weeding may only be required in the fall, the flower garden can be classified as a low-maintenance arrangement.

Peony planting units

Cuttings of tree peonies grafted onto herbaceous rhizomes.

Each peony division should have at least 3-5 shoots with buds.

Tree peony seedling with 6 shoots.

Peony seedling with 8 or more shoots.

Planting and replanting peonies

Planting a peony while preserving the coma - photo

1. To plant both tree and herbaceous peonies, you should prepare a hole 60 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter.

2. A layer is laid at the bottom of the pit drainage material, for example, expanded clay, which will protect the peony from stagnation of water.

3. The hole is filled 1/3 with earth, compost and humus.

4. If necessary, heavy soil is diluted with sand.

5. Now all the components are thoroughly mixed in the planting hole itself, and the planting mixture is leveled.

7. Carefully remove the peony from the container.

8. The plant is placed in the center of the planting hole so that the renewal buds are 5 cm below the soil level.

10. The loose soil around the planted peony should be immediately compacted well.

11. Then the peony seedling is watered abundantly.

12. And the stem at the base is sprinkled with a mound of earth.

Planting a peony with a lump

How to properly replant a peony

1. The bushes are dug up, removed with a pitchfork, the shoots are cut off, and the roots are washed with a stream of water.

2. The plant is left in the shade for 3-4 hours, the fleshy roots are shortened to 15-20 cm.

3. Sections are processed charcoal or a mixture of coal and colloidal sulfur (1:1).

4. Individual sections are disinfected, and the bush is planted in a hole prepared in advance.

Peony propagation

Reproduction by dividing tree peonies - photo

1. Carefully dig up the bush at a distance of 20 cm from the roots.

2. Use a garden fork to remove the peony and shake the roots off the ground.

3. Now wash off the soil from the peony rhizomes with a stream of water.

4. Leave the plant in the shade for 3-4 hours so that the roots dry out a little.

5. Remove all leaves from the peony along with the petioles.

6. Strip all rotten areas down to healthy tissue.

7. Separate the rhizome with your hands, with a knife or using auxiliary wedges.

8. Before planting, all cuttings must be disinfected.

Tree peony division

Reproduction of herbaceous peonies by division - photo

1. The herbaceous peony should be dug up and pulled out with a pitchfork.

2. Gently shake off the soil from the roots.

3. The roots are thoroughly washed and allowed to dry.

4. All leaves are cut off and rotten roots are removed.

5. The rhizome is divided into several planting sections.

6. Before planting, the cuttings are disinfected in a fungicide solution.

Dividing herbaceous peony

Peony propagation - questions and answers

How to propagate a tree peony yourself? I have two varietal bushes.

Marianna Kokorysheva, Kaluga

This can be done in four ways - seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

1. The easiest way to propagate rooted tree peonies is by dividing the bush from late August to September. Such plants are hardier and good care very durable. They grow slower than grafted ones and have a predominance of single or semi-double flowers.
2. The most productive method (and it is usually used for mass propagation of varietal plants) is grafting a cutting of a young shoot onto the root of a herbaceous peony. However, it requires experience and skill in vaccination. This can be done from July until late autumn or in early spring(March, April). In this case, cuttings are harvested in the fall or cut in the spring before the sap flows.
3. It can also be propagated by layering, bending the shoot in the fall when covering the plant or in the spring, covering the top with soil mixed with peat with a layer of 5-8 cm.
4. To get many viable plants with unexpected colors, it is best to sow seeds. But their “behavior” does not please everyone.

Usually they are sown in the ground after harvesting - in the fall, but only a part germinates next spring. The remaining shoots will appear in another year. The fact is that peonies need a two-stage stratification: a warm period for root development and a cold period for shoot growth.

After three months in the room, many seeds will produce roots. Seedlings can be planted in pots and placed in the refrigerator, making sure they do not dry out. After another 3 months, cotyledons should appear - this is a sign of shoot regrowth. Now the plant can be planted in open ground, weather permitting.

In the first year, the seedling develops 1-2 leaves, which die in the fall. In the second year, a shoot approximately 20-30 cm long grows and becomes woody. Next, new shoots grow and tiller. The first flowers usually appear in the 4-5th year.

Germination can be accelerated if in the fall the seeds are wrapped in damp sphagnum and placed in Plastic container with lid.

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With what trepidation and delight we look, after a long winter, at the first shoots emerging from the earth warmed by the spring sun. Peony shoots are especially good during this period. We can't wait for the leaves to unfurl and the buds to appear. We breathe a sigh of relief - it means that the flowering festival will take place. And again doubts: will we like the flower itself, will it live up to our hopes and such a long wait, sometimes even more than one year? Such strong feelings make gardening a hobby that is difficult to give up.

So, we have already dreamed and sighed enough, it’s time to get down to business - we will work for results.

To begin with, as soon as the soil thaws, remove the winter mulch from the young peony plantings (remember the beacons recommended in the fall?). Do this carefully, using your hands, being careful not to damage the sprouts. If you used compost as mulch, simply move it to the periphery and leave it in place as extra food. Shoots of species peonies (p. tenuifolia, p. officinalis, p. anomala, etc.) and varieties of interspecific hybrids appear the very first, and the very last - late varieties milky peony. Therefore, when you see that everything around you is “spearing”, and some peonies have not yet appeared, do not worry and do not rush to “get to the bottom of the truth” - you can break the sprouts and push back flowering for a year or more (your own bad experience). Wait until the beginning of June, and then you will sound the alarm (more on that later).

It is better to plant peonies that have spent the winter in pots in a permanent place - now is the time. You should not keep them in containers until autumn: the roots will not receive enough oxygen and nutrition and may rot. Moreover, due to limited space everyone will get confused with each other. This will negatively affect the subsequent growth of the peony, its flowering, and will also complicate the process of dividing the rhizome in the future.

After freeing the sprouts from the mulch, we apply a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements into the grooves made around the bush: BonaForte spring-summer or Terrasol spring-summer. For bushes older than 4 years - 2 tbsp. spoons, and for 2-3 year olds 1 tbsp is enough. spoons, spill a little. We feed peonies planted last year by the leaves as soon as they unfurl: for 1 liter of water - 2 drops of HB-101 or 1 ampoule of Cytovit plus 1 tablet of Alirin. like this foliar feeding We will do it again in mid-June. This stimulates the development of the root system and the formation of full-fledged flower buds for the next year. If peonies are planted in late autumn, they must be additionally watered with root (10 g per 10 l).

Many opuses have been written about the benefits of mulch. Let me just say that peonies really like it! In the second half of May, I mulch all peony beds. To do this, I use cut grass, rich nettles, dandelions, alfalfa, clover, and lupine. I find all this “wealth” in my garden, in the roadside ditch and in the field behind the plot. Such mulch quickly rots, turning into precious vermicompost. With good care, peonies grow exponentially, showing magnificent blooms year after year.

Beginner gardeners often have a question: is it necessary to remove buds on peonies planted last year and this spring, because you really want to look at the flower and make sure that there is no misuse? Considering my own experience, as well as the experience of many peony growers, I advise you to definitely remove it! There are a number of reasons for this: in the first year, the peony is focused on the formation of new roots, you need to give it the opportunity to do this well, and the flower that it produces from “old stocks” will hardly look like the reference photo from the catalog - this will be unreasonably upsetting and will disappoint you. Wait another year for flowering, especially since many self-respecting companies accept claims for possible re-grading within 24 months. Pinch the bud as soon as the peony stem reaches its maximum height and stop growing.

Regular, once a week, watering during the dry period is very important for the peony, especially at the budding stage and after flowering, when new buds are formed for the next year. Don't forget to water buried peonies in containers.

In the first ten days of July, apply fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (0.5 cup) under adult bushes. These can be any complex mineral fertilizers intended for autumn feeding. Feed young bushes and peonies in containers with a solution of potassium monophosphate (2 tsp per 10 liters of water): 2 liters per bush and 1 glass per container.

Now a little about the dangers and troubles that you may encounter on the way to obtaining a luxurious peony bush, and how to overcome them.

This is, first of all, a disease of gray mold. It appears in rainy, cool summers, especially on acidic, heavy, poorly aerated soils. It affects young shoots, leaves, buds and roots. The buds turn brown and do not develop. Dark brown spots form on the stems and leaves, which lead to their drying out and death. Keep a very close eye on peonies in containers. In principle, if you have followed all container husbandry recommendations inside and out, the risk of disease is minimized. If you notice alarming signs, treat the plant with HOM or Abiga-Pik as soon as possible (according to the instructions). As the disease progresses, it is necessary to completely cut off the diseased stem, sprinkle the cut with HOM or “burn” with undiluted Vitaros or brilliant green. Change the top layer of soil in the pot. Don’t panic right away if you have to remove all the stems; your task is to prevent gray rot from penetrating into the root collar. Yes, the peony will weaken, but will remain alive. I advise, if possible, to transplant it from the container into open ground as soon as possible. By mid-summer, short shoots will grow from the dormant buds, which will help the peony lay buds for next year.

In the garden, start prevention as soon as shoots appear. Actively use biological drugs: Alirin, Sporobacterin, Fitosporin-M, approximately once every 2 weeks. They not only protect plants from pathogenic fungi, but are also good growth stimulants. At least once a season, apply foliar feeding with Siliplant (0.5 tsp per 1 liter of water), containing large percentage silicon, which increases mechanical strength tissues and has pronounced fungicidal properties. For bushes that “particularly distinguished themselves” last season, spray twice with an interval of 10 days with any copper-containing preparations (HOM, Abiga-Pik, Ordan).

Another possible problem is that June has already arrived, but the shoots of the peony planted last year have not yet appeared. There are two main reasons here: root rot(poor quality planting material, damp place, too lazy to do sanitary treatment before planting) and freezing of the buds (in a snowless, frosty winter due to the lack of mulch, or the buds could begin to grow during the long, rainy autumn). In this case, you need to carry out “archaeological excavations” - carefully, with your hands, using a brush and a thin stick, as if you had discovered a priceless “artifact,” remove the peony, rinse and evaluate its condition. If the root collar is soft, with a large amount of necrotic (dark) tissue, then you will have to part with the peony. If this is one of the “coral” hybrids (“Coral Sunset”, “Coral Charm”), separate the healthy part of the root (cover the sections with ash) and plant it in a separate bed. It is likely that in the future buds will form on it, and the peony will be able to recover. If everything is in order with the root collar, it is necessary to urgently remove the dead buds so that rot does not penetrate inside, clean out all suspicious dark spots on the roots (if possible, keep the thin suction roots), soak in Vitaros for 2 hours, sprinkle the sections with HOM. Replant it, install a “beacon” and cover it with a cut-off five-liter bottle. A peony can sprout from dormant buds, or perhaps, having formed new ones, “sleep” until next spring.

Peonies are very resilient plants that can develop and bloom for many years with almost no care. But, if in due time you give them attention worthy of the kings of flowers, you will not even recognize the “mongrel” from your neighbor, let alone modern varieties and hybrids, many of which show all the beauty of a flower only against a high agrotechnical background.

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