Propagation of spathiphyllum and care of young plants. Reproduction of spathiphyllum at home

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Installation

It is best to propagate spathiphyllum by seeds in late winter-early spring.. But by cuttings or dividing the bush at any time except flowering. It is better to wait until the plant blooms.

Inventory preparation

To propagate this indoor culture The following materials will be required:

container made of ceramics, wood;
scissors, pruning shears;
glass for covering seedlings;
container with water for rooting cuttings.

Step-by-step instructions on how a flower reproduces

The cuttings are presented in the form of leaf rosettes, separated from the adult plant.. If small roots are present, then the cuttings are ready for planting directly into the bud.

If they are absent, you will have to place the planting material in water with activated carbon until they form. After root formation, place the cuttings in special soil.

To do this, combine the following components in equal quantities:

perlite;
high peat;
sphagnum moss.

After the cutting has been placed in a nutrient substrate, place it in a greenhouse or under a glass cover. This is necessary to maintain high humidity. With the onset of spring, the already strong shoot can be planted in another container., suitable in size.

Dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is convenient and easy to implement. It is also useful for an adult plant, as it is an opportunity to “thin out” a dense bush. The flower grows quite quickly, and the young rosettes remove all nutritional components from the soil, depriving the mother plant.

IMPORTANT: Dividing the bush has a positive effect on the subsequent growth and development of spathiphyllum.

Divide the bush early in the spring, even before the start of the growing season. The root system should be strong and without injury. The delenka is ready to grow on its own if it has 3 leaf rosettes which are well developed. The root collar of immature plants should be at the same soil level as that of the mother bush.

The container for the flower should be small in volume, since it is in a deep container root system will begin to actively develop, and this will lead to rapid growth of leaves and delayed flowering.

Procedure:

Before the procedure, water the mother plant in the flower pot generously. This will make it easy to remove the flower with a lump of earth and less trauma to the root system.
As soon as the flower has been removed from the container, its roots are thoroughly washed from the soil and, if possible, untangled.
The prepared root system will be easier to separate.
Sprinkle the cut areas on the root system with finely tuned activated carbon. Wait 2-3 hours for them to dry.
Before each division, perform a careful inspection and remove dried and rotten parts from the root system and leaves.
Plant each young plant in a shallow and narrow container.
Spread the fragile roots over the surface of the soil and carefully sprinkle nutrient substrate. After this, compact it slightly.

To plant cuttings, you need to buy ready-made soil for plants of the Araceae family. or cook it yourself. To do this, connect the following components:

leaf soil - 1 part;
peat – 1 part;
turf – 1 part;
river sand – ½ part.

Watch a video about propagation by dividing the bush:

This method of reproduction is difficult and time-consuming. The reason is that the seeds quickly lose their viability and cannot be stored for a long time. Sow them immediately after harvest. And for them to ripen, pollinate a blooming indoor flower. This process is complex and lengthy, so it is better to buy planting material in a specialized store.

Even when using the freshest seeds, about half of them will not yield inputs. So when purchasing, pay attention to the expiration date.

Procedure:

Prepare a shallow container with drainage. Cover it with a nutritious substrate consisting of peat and sand, taken in equal proportions.
Scatter the seeds over the surface of the soil and lightly sprinkle with soil without compacting.
Cover the container with glass and place the container in a room where the air temperature is 24-25 degrees.
Water the soil by spraying.
Open the glass every day to ventilate the seedlings and remove condensation. Excess moisture leads to mold development and death. planting material.
As soon as 2-3 leaves are formed, pick, planting young plants in separate containers.

Caring for a plant at home

Lighting and temperature

Propagated spathiphyllum requires diffused light. Only then will the plant grow large and last for a long time. In spring and summer, maintain the temperature at 22 degrees Celsius. with the onset of autumn and winter, the temperature should not be below 16 degrees.

ATTENTION: If the temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius, the plant will die. Drafts also have a detrimental effect on the flower.

Carry out humidification all year round using settled water. During the period of active growth and in summer, watering should be plentiful. Perform it 2-3 times a week, without waiting for it to dry upper layer soil. If the soil dries out, the root system will die. Moisten the soil carefully so that water does not get on the flowers.

When growing spathiphyllum at home, it is important to spray, and also mark the pot in a container with gray expanded clay. Spray the flower at least 2 times a day. Otherwise, the leaves will begin to dry out. In winter, reduce watering to once a week.

Fertilizer

From March to September apply mineral fertilizers. dilute them with water (1 g per 1 l). Before adding, water the flower thoroughly. Feeding should be regular - once every 2 weeks. IN winter time, if the plant does not bloom, fertilize it too, adding nutrients once every 5 weeks.

Fertilizers should not be used during flowering. Also, young plants do not need them after transplantation. For long term and abundant flowering Feedings with a high concentration of potassium and phosphorus are suitable.

You will learn all the subtleties and nuances of caring for this plant in.

Possible problems and difficulties

When growing spathiphyllum, the following problems are possible:

Drying and curling of leaf tips. The main reason - low humidity or low temperature in room.
Pale leaves. This phenomenon occurs when the light is too bright. It is necessary to move the container with the flower to another place, and remove the affected leaves. Otherwise, the process is irreversible.
Black spots on leaves. This problem occurs if the root is sick. In most cases this occurs due to excess moisture. It is urgent to replant the flower and clean the root system. An unbalanced diet can also affect the development of blackness on leaves. If you overdo it with fertilizing, then do not replant.
No flowering. This occurs as a result of over-fertilization. Also, the lack of flowers may be due to the roots filling the entire container of the pot.

You can read more about spathiphyllum diseases in.

Conclusion

Reproduction of spathiphyllum is a complex and responsible process that requires increased attention. For a beginner the best option will be using the method of dividing the bush, since propagation by seeds and cuttings is an option for experienced gardeners.

Spathiphyllum is a beautiful indoor plant that attracts the eye with its unusually lush green leaves and beautiful inflorescence: a creamy cob with a white blanket - a sail at the base. The plant does not require abundant sunlight, prefers partial shade, does not like abundant fertilizing. The ease of care, cultivation and propagation allows spathiphyllum to take its rightful place among other indoor flowers.

There are some features of propagating spathiphyllum at home. This article gives useful recommendations about plant propagation methods. The most accessible and common are: propagation of spathiphyllum by dividing the bush and cuttings. The option of propagation by seeds is possible. The method of propagation by spathiphyllum leaves is not found in the literature.

Propagation by seeds

Let’s make a reservation right away: propagation by seeds is a very labor-intensive process. At home, it is difficult to artificially pollinate a flower, obtain seeds, and create conditions for their ripening. The germination capacity of spathiphyllum seeds is very low and is quickly lost. If you still managed to get spathiphyllum seeds, you can try this propagation method.

Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in moist soil consisting of sand and peat. You should ensure that the soil is constantly moist, but not wet. When the seedlings appear, they need to be ventilated periodically by opening the greenhouse slightly. This method of propagation is possible, but is not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is complicated and not always effective.

Cuttings

The vegetative method of propagating spathiphyllum is the most acceptable at home. Cuttings are a small collection of young leaves at the base mother plant with the rudiments of the root system.

It is best to root cuttings in spring and summer time. Rosettes of cuttings are carefully separated from the mother plant. For rooting, use containers with wet sand. Cuttings root well in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.

When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in the prepared earthen mixture. Mix peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.

Dividing the bush

The most convenient and common way to propagate spathiphyllum is by dividing the bush. The plant grows, forms many young rosettes with leaves and requires annual replanting. At this time you can divide mother plant into separate parts. This must be done very carefully, without damaging the root system. Otherwise, young plants will not take root. If there are no roots on the cuttings, they should be placed in water until roots appear and only then planted in the ground.

Each division must have at least 3 leaves and its own core. Plants should not be planted in flower pots large diameters. The root system will “fatten” until it occupies the entire space of the pot. In this case, you will have to wait a very long time for the spathiphyllum to bloom.

Plants are planted in special prepared soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. A layer of expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot. It serves good drainage system when watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and prevents the roots from drying out quickly.

When planting cuttings, do not bury the root collar of the plant. If the plant is deeply buried, you may not wait for the spathiphyllum to bloom. The propagation process by dividing the bush should occur at a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

The ease of caring for the plant and fabulous beauty raise spathiphyllum to the pedestal of honor among favorite indoor pets. Using simple methods of plant propagation, you can please yourself, your friends and family with new specimens of this unsurpassed beauty indoor flower.

Spathiphyllum - exquisite decorative indoor flower, which perfectly emphasizes the interior of any room. In addition to external data, this plant perfectly purifies the air from harmful fumes of formaldehyde and phenol.

Spathiphyllum is quite easy to grow at home; it is absolutely unpretentious and has unique ability for easy reproduction.

Spathiphyllum.

The homeland of this exquisite plant is South America. Many species were brought from Malaysia and Polynesia.

Due to its unpretentiousness and decorativeness, the plant is actively grown indoors.

Basic methods of defrosting

Growing spathiphyllum at home is not difficult. It reproduces in three ways:

dividing the mother bush;
cuttings;
seeds.

By division

The easiest way to propagate spathiphyllum at home is by dividing an adult plant into many parts. As is known, for good growth and development of this flower, it needs not only to be watered regularly, but also to be replanted annually, since it has a well-developed root system that depletes the soil. If the plant has grown well enough and has many young rosettes, then it can be easily divided into parts. This way you will not only get new bushes, but also renew the mother flower, giving it new strength for further growth.

Why is dividing a bush so actively used not only among novice gardeners, but also among professionals? Everything is quite simple. Each resulting bush, as a result of division, is a ready-made, full-fledged flower. And caring for it at home is just as easy as caring for the mother plant. After the spathiphyllum has been divided into parts, all the resulting bushes are planted in separate flower pots. At the same time, when propagating in this way, the following points should be taken into account:

Dividing the bush is best combined with annual plant replanting and done in the spring.
For propagation, choose a spathiphyllum that has a healthy and well-developed root system and at least three to five leaf rosettes.
Plant bushes in small pots. This is necessary for the plant to fully realize itself, that is, not only to form lush greenery, but also to bloom.

You also need to properly prepare the mother plant for division. Before removing the plant from the pot, water it thoroughly. When the soil softens, carefully remove the bush from the flowerpot and thoroughly clean the roots from the soil. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. It is best, after the spathiphyllum has been removed from the pot, to remove the bulk of the soil with your hands and place the flower for a while in a container with room water, the soil will soak well and fall off. Then the roots are examined, their relationship with the leaf rosettes is determined and division is carried out. For disinfection, cut areas are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. While the prepared bushes dry out a little (the cutting areas), you need to start preparing the soil. You can buy a ready-made substrate for aroid plants or prepare it yourself. To do this you will need peat, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions and two parts of coarse river sand. Regardless of what kind of soil will be used, it must be disinfected. This is done using hot boiled water, which is poured into the prepared substrate; when it cools down, you can plant spathiphyllum in it, carefully straightening the roots and sprinkling them with soil.

Cuttings

At home, you can propagate spathiphyllum by cuttings. Of course, this method is more labor-intensive, but in principle, not difficult. They begin to reproduce in the spring, although this can also be done in the summer. First, cuttings are prepared from cut leaf rosettes. Then they need to be germinated until roots appear. To do this, take a glass of water in which you need to dilute 0.5 tablets activated carbon. It is in this solution that the cutting is placed until the root system appears. You can also use other substances for germination:

coarse river sand;
perlite;
peat;

It is more reliable to grow cuttings in them. Firstly, they are protected from rotting and mold formation, and secondly, the process of root formation is much faster.

Landing is underway in the following way. The selected substrate is well moistened and cuttings are planted in it, while the soil is well compacted and covered with polyethylene. This must be done to maintain a constant temperature and maintain humidity. It is recommended to ventilate seedlings daily and regular watering. After the first young leaves appear, the film is removed, the plant is grown for some time and then transplanted into separate pots with soil as for an adult spathiphyllum. IN further care carried out in accordance with the relevant recommendations for growing plants of this species.

Seeds

Propagation by seeds is perhaps the most the hard way breeding spathiphyllum at home. It will take a lot of time and effort. Let us immediately note that it is almost impossible to independently obtain viable seeds from the mother plant at home. And this is due to certain difficulties in artificial pollination of spathiphyllum and the rapid loss of germination of seeds. Therefore, if you decide to resort to this method reproduction, then seed material must be purchased in specialized stores. At the same time, pay attention to their expiration date and be prepared for the fact that more than half of the planted seeds will not germinate.

Propagation by seeds.

And so, now about how to plant them correctly. To begin, prepare a substrate of sand and peat in equal quantities, which is poured into a shallow tray. The prepared soil is well moistened and seeds are planted in it, sprinkled with 3-5 millimeters of substrate on top. The container with seedlings is covered with film or glass and placed in a place where it is possible to maintain a constant temperature of +22-+24 degrees. Every day, seedlings need to be ventilated and sprayed with warm, settled water. Excessive moisture should not be allowed, as mold may appear and the planting material will begin to rot. The film is removed only after the first leaves appear. It is recommended to plant plants in individual pots only when three leaves have formed and they have grown by three to five centimeters. As you can see, if you follow the theory, there are no particular difficulties when growing spathiphyllum from seed, but in practice everything is a little different. The main difficulties are:

low seed germination;
capriciousness of planting material during germination (most of it suffocates under the film or rots).

Therefore, in home floriculture, propagation using cuttings and division is most preferable. At the same time, we note that Spathiphyllum does not have the ability to reproduce by leaf, like many other indoor plants. A leaf broken off from a bush, even if placed in water with a “heel,” simply rots and dies.

Spathiphyllum is poisonous plant, therefore, after working with it, you must thoroughly wash your hands with soap and be careful not to get its juice on the skin and mucous membranes.

Legend has it that spathiphyllum is capable of providing magical influence on a woman's life, to draw attention to the lonely good man, and for married women to help create harmony and peace in the family.

Even a long-awaited baby can be born under the wonderful influence of this flower, which is why people nicknamed it accordingly: “Women’s Happiness.”

Caring for a flower Women's happiness: how to care for, water and maintain moisture

Spathiphyllum reveals its full potential if a beneficial climate is created for it. It should be warm and humid: the temperature in winter is not lower than 15°C, in the rest of the period 18-25°C, and spraying with settled water several times a day - at least three in the summer, and once in the winter. If this is not possible, then a layer of gravel is poured into the pan or moss is placed, which is generously moistened with water. This will help maintain the required air humidity for a comfortable living of the tropical beauty. The rules for watering spathiphyllum need to be taken as carefully as possible: it does not like waterlogging and drying out, you need to try to maintain a balance with the amount of water. After abundant watering the liquid remaining in the pan is drained after 1.5-2 hours to prevent rotting of the roots. A lack of moisture will manifest itself in drying tips of the leaves and falling flowers, and an excess will result in a complete absence of flowering and rotting of the bases of the leaves.

Spathiphyllum should be “washed” regularly, carefully wiping off the dust with a damp sponge or soft cloth. Its leaves are quite fragile, they are easy to scratch, so wiping is carried out very carefully. The flower does not like open sunlight - they can burn the delicate leaves, which, when damaged by ultraviolet radiation, form unsightly brown spots.

How to propagate the flower Women's Happiness and how to care for it after planting

Spathiphyllum is replanted and propagated in the spring, having previously prepared a substrate of turf soil, sand, peat and humus in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The planting container should be about 4 cm larger than the previous one - the flower prefers spacious pots. You should not exceed this threshold, since flowering may stop for an indefinite period. Be sure to have a good drainage layer. Propagating a spathiphyllum bush is very simple: usually a large plant produces a lot of root cuttings, which are carefully separated and planted.

Important nuance: the shoots are planted in well-watered warm water soil, and leave the flowers alone for several days so that they acclimatize a little in the new place.

By the way, according to the superstition, for “Women’s Happiness” to really bring good luck to its owner, the flower should not be bought, but given as a gift. At good care it produces shoots willingly and abundantly, so this is a reason to present your friends with charming green pets.

Another way: propagation of spathiphyllum by pieces of root. It is quite complicated and is not recommended for beginning flower growers, since it requires a certain skill to divide the mother root without the risk of destroying the main plant. The rhizome is cut, the sections are sprinkled with coal chips, and then the process is similar to ordinary planting. But propagation by leaf is impossible. If you put it in water or immediately bury it in the ground, the leaf will simply rot.

There is also the option of propagating spathiphyllum by seeds, but it is extremely unpopular even among flower experts. This is due to the incredible difficulty of growing a flower from seeds. Firstly, artificial pollination is required, which in most cases does not provide desired result. Secondly, the seeds are absolutely not stored. A day, and more than 50% of the prepared material will no longer sprout. And thirdly, even if you managed to plant a certain number of seeds, you will have to simultaneously maintain the required humidity under a glass cover, monitor the access of oxygen to the future seedlings, and protect it from drafts, in which the young spathiphyllum can easily “catch a cold” and die.

Taking care of the flower Women's happiness: how to care for it so that care brings benefits

If you follow the rules of watering and immediately choose a sufficiently lit place for the plant, which is not exposed to direct sunlight, then the lion's share of troubles will be eliminated, in particular, rotting, loss decorative look, irregular flowering and the leaves acquiring a yellowish pigment that is unnatural for spathiphyllum. But it’s still worth going point by point what to do in a particular case:

The flower does not grow - it means there is too much sun and water; it is necessary to adjust the location of the pot with spathiphyllum and reconsider the watering;

Long time no flowering - the main reason is the volume of the pot is too large; until the spathiphyllum fills all the free space with roots, you will not wait for flowering;

appeared on the leaves dark spots- perhaps this is a consequence of too much watering. If everything is in order with this, then you need to carefully examine the plant for the presence of pests, and if any are found, treat them with a special solution;

Pale, withered leaves- most likely the result of the work of insects;

Dried tips of leaves - if there has been a recent transplant, then this is the norm for spathiphyllum during the adaptation period in a new place; otherwise, the flower does not have enough moisture - you need to increase watering and spray more often.

What can harm a flower Women's happiness: we care for and protect

The real scourge for “women’s happiness” is the spider mite, and besides it - aphids, scale insects, sooty fungus and mealybugs. First things first.

First sign spider mite- weightless translucent threads that appear between the stem and leaf and gradually spread throughout the plant. If neglected, the flower may dry out and die. Fortunately, removing a tick is quite simple: initial stage its spread will be sufficient by thoroughly treating the plant with a soap solution, and in more advanced cases, with insecticides.

Another embodiment of evil for spathiphyllum is the shield aphid, or simply the scale insect. It is practically indistinguishable to the naked eye.

It prefers to settle on the lower part of the leaves and feeds on the juice of the flower, which first leads to its blackening, and then to curling and drying. If spots appear on the stems and leaves, you need to take action immediately, as aphids spread very quickly throughout the plant. For treatment, a soap-tobacco infusion is used, to which a small amount of alcohol or kerosene is added: the entire plant is sprayed with it. A solution of nicotine sulfate, 1 gram per liter of water, has proven itself well.

If aphids strike bottom part, then the sooty fungus is located on top of the leaves. It is necessary to promptly remove the blackening with a soap solution so that the plant can “breathe.”

Mealybugs appear when there is excess moisture. It can be easily removed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or soap solution.

For spathiphyllum to please you with its health and abundant flowering, it is enough to follow simple recommendations for plant care. Then “Women’s Happiness” will reciprocate your affection and will certainly fulfill its purpose: it will give you peace in your soul.

It is not for nothing that Spathiphyllum is in high demand and deserved respect, especially from women. After all, this beautiful and delicate flower brings family harmony into our lives. Even if you don’t believe in omens, lush greenery combined with white flowers evokes a feeling of delight. Moreover, this plant is unpretentious, and, despite its tropical origin, it gets along well in our apartments. But in order not to harm the plant through inept actions, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of care.

History and description of the plant

Charming and delicate, this is exactly how I would like to describe this, at first glance, modest flower. Spathiphyllum is one of the most purchased plants. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a holiday on the calendar or weekdays, the plant doesn’t linger in the flower shop.

Elegant spathiphyllum never lingers in a flower shop

The plant was first described in the 19th century. But it became widespread as a houseplant in the 60s of the last century.

In nature, spathiphyllum prefers to settle in damp and warm places. Wild specimens are found in swampy areas, along the banks of rivers and streams. The distribution area is considered to be the territory from Central to South America and the Old World islands - New Guinea, Sulawesi, Philippines, Palau, Moluccas and Solomon Islands.

Spathiphyllum prefers moist and warm places for settlement

Spathiphyllum is a very attractive perennial evergreen. In nature, as a rule, it is represented by terrestrial species, but epiphytes are also found. The plant has a short rhizome, but no stem - its long petioles begin to grow vertically straight from the ground level and are crowned with glossy leaves of a rich green color. The leaf blade is entire, oval or lanceolate in shape with a pointed tip. The surface is decorated with a clear relief of veins - a clearly visible central one, and side ones running parallel to it.

The plant, depending on the species, has different heights. There are very miniature specimens that grow a little over 20 cm. And there are even giants - their height exceeds the meter level.

For interior landscaping, you can purchase small or large spathiphyllums, species diversity this allows

Numerous pedicels grow as long as the petiole, or slightly higher. The inflorescences consist of a yellow or milky-colored spadix and a white spathe growing at the base of the spadix. The spathe resembles an elongated ellipse; it grows longer than the cob. Towards the end of the flowering process, the white blanket begins to change color and becomes green.

The name of the plant, which belongs to the Araceae family, is literally translated as “blanket” and “leaf”, which is actually confirmed appearance flower.

Why is the plant called “women’s happiness”?

Spathiphyllum has several names - white sail, female flower or peace lily. But it is “women's happiness” that is firmly entrenched in everyday life. It is believed that this delicate flower is endowed with great magical power. The flower will thank its owner for attention. He brings her joy, happiness and peace of mind, will increase self-esteem and improve health, she will find harmony not only with herself, but also with the world around her.

Spathiphyllum is called " women's happiness", because the plant thanks its owner for her care with these very values

Several signs associated with spathiphyllum

if you give this plant to a lonely woman, then sincere love will not take long to arrive;
if a woman is childless, spathiphyllum will help to find the happiness of motherhood;
For married couples, the plant will give harmony in relationships;
If you give a flower to a stranger, happiness will leave your home.

In order to double the positive effect of spathiphyllum, you need to pair it with another happiness - male, that is, anthurium. Growing and abundantly flowering plants are an indicator of ideal and harmonious relations in family.

In order for the positive effect of spathiphyllum to gain double strength, you need to purchase anthurium in tandem with it.

Spathiphyllum or anthurium?

Both of these plants represent the same family - Araceae. But, nevertheless, they have differences in appearance.

What are the differences between spathiphyllum and anthurium - table

Types of spathiphyllum used in home cultivation

The genus Spathiphyllum includes about 50 species. But in indoor floriculture, not all species are represented, but only those most adapted to home conditions. In addition, there are many hybrid forms obtained through the efforts of breeders.

Bearing the name of its discoverer, this species is considered the most unpretentious, and therefore very popular. The size of the bush will fit perfectly even into small rooms- plant height is only 20 – 30 cm. The color range of oblong lanceolate leaves ranges from emerald green to at a young age to dark green in mature plants. The cob is small, white. It is surrounded by a snow-white blanket, which may turn green over time. It is distinguished by abundant flowering, which lasts from spring to autumn.
Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped. The plant is tall - up to 1 m in height. The leaves are glossy, dark green, slightly wavy at the edges. The petiole is long - up to 70 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a white spadix, surrounded by a long spathe of elongated oval shape.
Spathiphyllum profusely blooming. It is not inferior to Wallis in popularity due to its long flowering period. The leaves are elongated-oval, initially light green, and then becoming more saturated color. Flowers small size, white. The height of the plant reaches 50 cm. Based on the species, several hybrids have been bred, one of which is the popular Mauna Loa.
The largest representative of the genus. With proper care it grows into a 1.5 meter giant. The leaves are large - up to 90 cm long, 30 - 40 cm wide, dark green. The surface has pronounced ribbing. The inflorescences are large - almost 50 cm.
Glossy, dense, dark- green leaves form a plant 50 cm high. A feature of this species is the vertical growth of the petioles, which practically do not deviate to the side, as in other species.

Photo gallery of spathiphyllum species

Spathiphyllum Wallis is the most popular among other species Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped stands out due to its large size Spathiphyllum Abundantly flowering is the parent form for many hybrids
Spathiphyllum Sensation is a true giant among its relatives In Spathiphyllum Alana, the petioles grow almost vertically

Variegated representatives of the genus

Variegated representatives of the genus Spathiphyllum are good because it is impossible to find plants with the same leaf color.

Its bright green foliage, through which white strokes are clearly visible, as if left by an artist’s brush, evokes enthusiastic exclamations. In height unpretentious plant grows up to 50 cm.

Spathiphyllum Picasso due to its unusual coloring is a unique species

High ornamental plant, 50–60 cm high. Dense green leaves are covered with numerous white streaks. The inflorescence consists of a white-yellow or slightly greenish spadix, wrapped in a white blanket. By the way, the plant is quite rare in flower shops, although it’s difficult to call it difficult to care for.

Spathiphyllum Domino will delight any esthete

Features of growing and caring for flowers at home

It's no secret that everyone loves flowers proper care. Spathiphyllum is no exception in this regard. And although the plant can safely be considered one of the simplest in terms of maintenance, you need to know some nuances.

Season	Temperature	Lighting	Humidity
Spring-summer	During this period it is ideal for the flower is considered temperature within 22 – 23 0 C. Will withstand increase to 27 0 C. If there is a downgrade temperature, then the readings thermometer should not fall below 18 0 C.	From spring to autumn spathiphyllum you need bright but diffuse light. Direct sunlight are contraindicated, therefore summer period the plant is needed shade slightly. Fine place a flowerpot with a flower near east or west window. South direction good too, but behind a curtain. North window too little sun. Spathiphyllum with solid green leaves colors are more shade-tolerant. Variegated plants require better lighting.	Genetically determined love of moisture requires maintenance flower with humidity not lower 50%.
Autumn-winter	Comfort in cold weather will bring the temperature to on average 16 0 C. The main thing is that the thermometer is not dropped below 12 0 C.	During the period when it is sunny not enough light, flower should be placed near the south window. If spathiphyllum occupies position near the north window, then it needs to be illuminated.	During the heating season humidity systems are best maintain as in summer period, using wet filler, spread out in pallet.

In winter, if there is a lack of sunlight, you can spread a reflective substrate under the pot with spathiphyllum

The heat-loving spathiphyllum cannot be kept in a draft under any circumstances, so when ventilating, set the plant aside. And here Fresh air loves it very much in the summer. A slightly shaded place on the balcony or in the garden, inaccessible to the wind, will greatly delight your flower.

Features of watering and moistening

The soil in a pot with spathiphyllum should always be slightly moist. In spring and summer, watering should be plentiful. In winter, the frequency of humidification is reduced, depending on the temperature in the room.

Basic rules of watering

never over-moisten the soil;
the liquid accumulated in the pan must be drained, since stagnation of water in the roots will lead to their disease;
do not allow the earthen clod to dry out;
water only with well-settled water, which should be at room temperature;
flowering is the period when you should not skimp on water;
We carry out the next watering, focusing on the condition of the top layer of soil - it should dry out a few centimeters deep.

In summer, when it rises temperature regime the plant needs daily spraying. It responds well to a shower, with the help of which the leaves get rid of dust. But it is best to hide flowers from water droplets during bathing. In winter, when kept in a cool room, the plant is not sprayed. If the spathiphyllum is placed near the switched on heating devices, then spraying is necessary. The water for spraying should be well settled and not lower than room temperature.

Maintaining the humidity around the flower at least 50% - important condition for normal development

Feeding

The growing season of spathiphyllum lasts from March to September. It is at this moment that the flower needs nutrients. As a rule, universal fertilizers are used for fertilizing. flowering plants having a balanced composition. But the concentrated solution should be diluted a little more than it should be, otherwise the delicate root system may get burned.

The plant responds very well to organic matter and natural additives. Alternating mineral and organic fertilizers gives amazing results.

Any type of liquid fertilizer is applied only to pre-moistened soil.

Fertilizer application - table

If spathiphyllum blooms in the autumn-winter period, it must be supported, but fertilizing is applied less frequently than during the active growing season

The soil

Choosing the right soil for your plant is the main task of the gardener. As a representative of the Araceae family, spathiphyllum prefers loose soils that allow moisture to pass through well and do not interfere with gas exchange in the roots. The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made substrate for aroids and add pieces of charcoal to it. But it’s also not difficult to prepare the soil mixture yourself; just purchase the following components:

leaf soil;
turf land;
peat;
humus;
river sand.

Tolerates spathiphyllum and simple leaf humus, but to make it more loose, brick chips should be added to its composition and charcoal.

Important little things

The soil for spathiphyllum should be slightly acidic - pH 5 – 6.
Be sure to use charcoal in soil mixtures. This is an excellent antiseptic that will protect the roots from rotting in case of accidental waterlogging of the soil.
Self-made substrate must be disinfected. To do this, use a hot dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Charcoal - necessary component when preparing a soil mixture for spathiphyllum, and activated carbon is needed for sprinkling small wounds during replanting

Choosing a suitable pot

If anyone doesn’t know, spathiphyllum really loves tight spaces. If you transplant a plant into large capacity, then you can’t wait for flowering to happen soon. Only when the roots have mastered the entire volume of the substrate will flowers appear. Therefore, choose pots that are slightly larger than the previous one so that the root system is comfortable.

The material from which the pot is made does not matter. But for large species(for example, Sensation), it is better to choose a more stable container - a ceramic pot or a small tub.

The presence of drainage holes to remove excess liquid is the main requirement for any container. Be sure to drain any water that has flowed into the pan after watering.

Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are a necessary condition

Transfer

Since the pot for spathiphyllum is small, replanting will have to be done frequently. Young plants are replanted annually, and specimens that have reached 5 years of age are replanted as needed. The signal is roots growing through the drainage holes and slowing growth.

The best time for the procedure is spring.

Large plants growing in tubs or large ceramic containers are not so easy to replant, so in order not to expose the flower to starvation, the top layer of depleted soil is replaced with new, more fertile one. Replacement must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Spathiphyllum loves cramped containers, but an overgrown flower needs to be replanted

Do I need to replant after purchase?

After purchase, the plant needs to be replanted. main reason This is not a suitable substrate. Transport soil is very moisture-intensive, takes a long time to dry out and causes rotting of the root system. In addition, the roots of a purchased plant often have nowhere to develop further, since they have entwined the entire peat lump. But the transplant should be carried out no earlier than a week and a half later. During this time, the plant must adapt to new conditions so as not to experience double stress.

Transplant method

Choose an appropriately sized pot with drainage holes.
Be sure to lay a layer of expanded clay at the bottom, at least 3 cm high.
Sprinkle some soil on top.
If you are replanting a recently purchased plant, carefully remove it from the pot, try to remove pieces of transport soil, but only those that come off easily. You can also place the roots in a bowl of water and lightly rinse them. If the spathiphyllum has already been transplanted before, and you are changing a pot that has become cramped, then the transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method in order to cause as little damage to the roots as possible.
Place the flower in the center of the new container and start adding the prepared soil from the sides.
Planting should be carried out at the same level.
After the soil fills the pot, lightly tap it on the edge of the table so that the soil mixture can be distributed as evenly as possible into the roots.
Water the plant. Wait for the excess liquid to pour into the pan and remove it.
Place the plant in a suitable location.

How to replant purchased spathiphyllum - video

Reproduction

Spathiphyllum can be propagated in 3 ways - by dividing the bush or rhizome, cuttings and seeds.

Dividing a bush or rhizome

This is the easiest way to get some new plants. It is carried out during transplantation.

Remove the plant from the pot.
Shake off excess soil.
Unravel long roots so they don't break.
Using a sharp knife or scissors, divide the rhizome so that there are growing points consisting of at least 3 young leaves and roots.
Sprinkle the cut areas with crushed activated carbon.
Plant the cuttings in small pots with a suitable soil mixture.
The soil should be well moistened, since it is not advisable to water young plants in the first days until the wounds have healed. But you can spray the leaves.

To get new spathiphyllums, you can divide the plant during transplantation in the spring.

Cuttings

This method can also be called simple, but there are some nuances that will help the successful rooting of the cuttings. Young rosettes that appear at the base of an adult plant in the spring can be carefully separated. The main task for the grower is to grow the root system so that further planting of the young plant is crowned with success.

Root the cuttings in damp sand. Preferably in a mini-greenhouse to create favorable conditions- warmth and sufficient level of humidity. You can also grow roots in plain water with the addition of activated carbon. After the root system is formed and new leaves begin to appear, the spathiphyllum is planted in a pot.

What mistakes can occur when rooting cuttings - video

Propagation by seeds

The task is labor-intensive and does not always end in success. But nevertheless, those who are interested in the process itself and who are not afraid of difficulties can try it.

The most a big problem- this is the rapid loss of the ability of seeds to sprout. Therefore, you will have to either pollinate the existing spathiphyllum yourself or seek help from enthusiasts like you.

What care problems may arise and how to eliminate them

Spathiphyllum is not capricious, but sometimes an oversight or ignorance of the rules of care can lead to a sad result. To prevent this from happening, you need to learn to understand the plant. After all, its appearance suggests what went wrong.

Yellowing leaves can indicate several problems:

low air humidity;
insufficient watering, in which the earthen ball is often in a dry state;
watering with hard, insufficiently settled water;
after a long and abundant flowering, spathiphyllum may experience nutritional deficiency.

Carefully inspect the plant, analyze the condition of the soil and maintenance conditions:

if the room is too hot, then you need to increase the humidity around the plant and spray the leaves daily;
Do not immediately fill dry soil with a large amount of water, but increase the rate gradually, bringing it to the desired frequency of watering;
water only with pre-settled water;
During the flowering period, the plant needs feeding, do not forget about it.

Yellow spathiphyllum leaves can be the result of several reasons, which one you will understand after analyzing the situation

The tips of the leaves begin to turn black. Most probable cause there may be excessive watering at low room temperatures. Try to bring the temperature and frequency of watering to the required standards, and the spathiphyllum will quickly grow new healthy foliage.

The blackening edges of the leaves of spathiphyllum indicate low temperatures and waterlogging

The flowers are starting to turn green. This is not a problem at all. The fact is that in the final stage of flowering the white cover begins to turn green and fade. This process is completely natural, and you just need to trim the peduncle at the base. And some types of spathiphyllum even have a light green color.

The leaves turn brown and dry out. This is a signal of low air humidity. Regular spraying of the leaves will return the freshness of green foliage to the spathiphyllum.

When humidity is low, the tips of the leaves begin to dry out.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom. The reason may be that the volume of the pot is too large, because until the plant has taken over the entire space, flowering will not occur. Another reason may be lack of light. Move the plant to the most illuminated place (but not in the direct rays of the sun) and soon the spathiphyllum will burst into white inflorescences.

The flower growth has slowed down, the leaves become chlorotic in color. This happens from a lack of manganese and iron. If these microelements are present in the nutrient solution, it means that the plant cannot fully absorb them due to poor soil aeration or cold. Transfer the flower to warm room and replace the substrate if necessary.

With an unbalanced diet, spathiphyllum can slow down growth

Sometimes droplets of water may appear on the leaves. There's no need to worry. This is how the plant naturally gets rid of excess fluid in the tissues at high humidity. environment. Take this into account if you are a fan of frequent spraying.

Diseases and pests characteristic of spathiphyllum

If errors that arise during the process are not eliminated in time improper care, then pests indoor plants They will happily settle on a flower. And diseases are frequent companions of weakened plants.

Control and prevention of diseases and pests - table

A thin web is the first sign of a tick

Spathiphyllum is a universal flower. It looks great as a solo plant and is harmonious in combination with other representatives of the flora. With proper care, it will delight you with long-lasting flowering. But in order to really enjoy the beautiful appearance of spathiphyllum and feel its beneficial effects, you need to make friends with the flower.

Diseases and pests	Symptoms	Control measures	Prevention
Root rot	Often occurs when excessive moisture soil. The plant looks lifeless, leaves lose turgor, droop. From the base of the soil to petioles rises black, leaves fall off.	Remove the spathiphyllum from pot. Free the roots from substrate and carefully examine them. Cut off rotten roots sharp scissors. Powder the wounds crushed activated coal. Dry for several hours. Plant a flower in a new one pot with drainage holes. Change the substrate completely. Do not water for several days until the top layer of soil is completely will not dry out. Add to irrigation water heteroauxin.	When landing always use drainage. Don't flood spathiphyllum. Strictly follow watering standards.
Sooty fungus	Is a consequence pest infestation. Appears on the top side of the sheet in the form black plaque, which Easily wipes off with fingers. Prevents normal photosynthesis in tissues.	Easy at the initial stage deal with rinsing sheet plates with soapy water. In case of advanced disease should be removed strongly affected leaves and treat flower with preparations Aktara, Skor or Decis.	Don't let it go down normal level humidity. Carry out prevention pests.
Aphid	Bottom of the sheet - most likely place accumulations of small insects that live due to plant juices. As a result, the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out.	If the aphid infestation is protracted nature, worth applying Fitoverm or Actellik. Prepare the solution in accordance with instructions.	At the first sign appearance of the pest A shower will help a lot - warm jets of water will wash away aphids and traces of her presence. Take care of normalization humidity level around spathiphyllum. Excellent prevention will serve as spraying the flower weak soap solution.
Arachnoid mite	The leaves are starting curl up on them small ones appear light dots. These are traces from punctures in places where the pest feeds on sap plants. One more a sign is thin cobweb weaving leaves.	Aktara and Actellik - drugs, that will help you cope with pest. Don't forget that insecticides toxic, and when working with them you need to open the windows and use customized

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