Secrets of long and abundant flowering of petunia. How to grow petunia seedlings from seeds - easy and simple

And more about petunia. Secrets abundant flowering petunias

I have been growing petunia for several years now and every time I look for new tips. As they say, live and learn. This year is no exception and I’ve found some more recommendations.

method 1

For sowing, I prepare a soil mixture in the fall: garden soil, humus, sand in a ratio of 1:1:2. Dishes- wooden boxes from under vegetables and plastic bottles cut lengthwise.
I line the boxes with newspapers, cover them and leave them in the cold so that they freeze thoroughly in winter. And at the beginning of January we bring it into the house. When the contents have thawed, you can start sowing.

We draw shallow parallel grooves along the surface, pour them well, then cover them with strips cut from colored paper napkins. Lightly press the strips to the ground and carefully (using a wet wooden ice cream stick) place the granulated seeds on them. The granules easily stick to the strips and are no longer lost in the ground. I don't sprinkle it on top. We spray the crops with a spray bottle. We place signs along the furrows (cut out of tin drinks cans) indicating the variety, sowing date and number of seeds sown. Then we cover the boxes with thick transparent film. The heavier it is, the better.
Seeds germinate under a fluorescent lamp after 10-20 days at a temperature of +20-22 degrees. After the first true leaf appears, ventilate the crops, remove the film and reduce the temperature to + 14-16 degrees. In the phase of the 3rd leaf, planting can be thinned out a little: excess seedlings can be planted.
In the future, the main thing is not to over-moisten them. We water once every 3 days: if the soil is allowed to dry out slightly, the roots will begin to seek moisture and work better. It is advisable to pinch the plants, and when early landings You can take apical cuttings.

When the plants grow and become stronger, they are planted in separate containers. We use plastic cups (0.5 l). We make holes in them for water drainage. To the previous composition of the soil mixture, add 1 part of buckwheat or millet husks. The earth becomes loose and breathable. Place the glasses in a common container and pour through a tray. Petunia grows strong and blooms in these cups. And when the threat of the last frost has passed, we pour the seedlings into containers in a permanent place, having first poured expanded clay on the bottom. Sprinkle a little earth on top. Petunia grown in this way practically does not get sick and blooms until the coldest weather.

By the way
Even if it is not possible to provide additional light to the seedlings, fortune should be sown as early as possible, at the end of January. It develops very slowly and you have to wait a long time for flowering.

Method 2

Petunia seeds for seedlings are usually sown in late February - early March. We do this even in January, because it is possible to add additional light to the seedlings. Pour the seeds onto moist soil and press down. We do not sprinkle soil on top. Cover the container with the crops and place it in a bright, warm place (approximately +22 degrees).

Emerging sprouts need light. And the more of it, the stronger they turn out. If there is not enough light, the sprouts stretch out and fall off. As soon as all the seedlings sprout, we lower the temperature overnight to +14-16 degrees. If this is not possible, you can compensate with light, leaving it over the seedlings around the clock. IN early age Petunias develop very slowly, growing their root system. If, after the appearance of the first true leaf, they are picked out, the plants will gain weight faster. In a greenhouse or on glass balcony seedlings can be moved when the night temperature does not fall below +6 degrees. Mature plants also prefer well-lit, open areas.

Secrets of abundant flowering of petunias

The practice of growing petunias has developed the following formula: large capacity + regular feeding sufficient watering + removal of faded flowers.

Large capacity for planting. The root system of petunia is very powerful, and it needs quite a lot of land. You need to proceed from the calculation - 5 liters of soil per plant. It turns out that you need to plant 2 petunias in a 10 liter container. In a balcony box 1 m long - no more than 3. If you plant more plants, the stronger will begin to suppress the weaker.

Regular feeding. Petunia loves to “eat” very much. You need to start feeding 2 weeks after the first picking of seedlings. In childhood, fertilizers containing nitrogen are needed for growth. Later, phosphorus and potassium are required to set buds. It is good to carry out foliar feeding with complex fertilizers with microelements. Iron for petunias is an important component of nutrition. Plants react to its deficiency by yellowing leaves (chlorosis). Iron chelate, or its liquid form - “Ferovit”, helps to correct this; 3-4 treatments with an interval of several days are enough. Adult plants need to be fed every 5 days, alternating root and foliar feeding. Petunias love potassium monophosphate.

Sufficient watering. It is important not to overwater petunia seedlings; they are very susceptible to blackleg. In general, adult plants love quite abundant watering. But short-term drying out of the soil is tolerated normally.
Removing faded flowers. It is advisable to regularly remove faded flowers. This provokes a new wave of flowering. But if it suddenly decreases, you can tear off the seed pods and dead flowers, feed them and it will be...THE SAME again!

If you want the petunia to bush and not stretch with one stem upward, you need to pinch it above the third leaf

The leaves will be succulent, the flowers will be large, and the flowering period will increase.

Well, I found another experience on the Internet:

I have been breeding petunias for several years now. I once bought seedlings at the market. Apparently it was some kind of mixture, because the flowers were very different. I really liked this beautiful and easy-to-care annual. Then I thought: well, really, I can’t grow seedlings myself, and the varieties that I like. In principle, this matter is not complicated, but there are some nuances. The whole point is that initial stage Petunia grows very slowly, it builds up its root system, so from the moment of sowing to planting it in the ground it takes from 2.5 to 3 months...

I sow inexpensive seeds without shells in the prepared soil mixture.
In order not to play with the lighting of petunias, I sow petunias no earlier than mid-March and place containers with seedlings in the brightest window.
The soil mixture for seedlings should allow water to pass through well, be light, but at the same time nutritious. You can make it yourself from equal parts of good humus, turf soil, peat and sand. You can buy a universal soil mixture in the store and add sand to it. In order to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases in future seedlings, I always disinfect the soil mixture a day before sowing by spilling it with a fungicide solution (for example, “Fundazol”, “Fitosporin-M”) or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. You can calcine it in the oven. In the first year, due to the “black leg”, most of the seedlings disappeared. Now I know for sure that it is better to prevent its appearance than to “play” with diseased seedlings by the time of sowing.
To sow seeds, I use transparent food containers with lids, in which I first make holes for water drainage. I put drainage at the bottom of the seedling container, usually charcoal or screening, but the main thing is to ignite it or disinfect it in some other way before use. I pour the prepared soil mixture on top, but not to the top of the container, but 3-4 cm below, so that the seedlings have room to grow at first. I compact the soil slightly.
Since the seeds of petunias are very small, before sowing they need to be mixed with sand, approximately 1x10. It is desirable that the seedlings be rare, it is then easier to pick them. If you take little sand, then the seedlings will grow very densely, and since they need to be picked when they are very small, this will be problematic. I carefully scatter the sand with the seeds over the soil, spray it with a growth stimulator solution from a spray bottle and, without sprinkling it with any substance, close the container. If it is a regular planting box, cover it
glass. Temperature - 22-25 degrees, no lower, otherwise they may not rise. Petunia seeds germinate better in light.
I make sure to ventilate the containers every day, remove moisture from the lid and sprinkle the seeds with water. If you see that the soil is wet, it is better not to water.
Shoots usually appear on 7-10 days.
After the seedlings appear, the temperature should be reduced by 2-3 degrees, but not lower than 20 degrees. I maintain this temperature until the first two true leaves appear.
At the same time, it is very important to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases. The soil mixture should never be wet, just slightly moist. Therefore, I immediately open the containers slightly, and after a few days I remove the lids completely. Instead of spilling, I spray the seedlings with a very weak solution of potassium permanganate from a spray bottle. After two weeks, I feed the plants with a complex fertilizer such as nitroammophoska. I make the solution twice as weak as what is written on the package.
If the seedlings begin to stretch out too much, I add sand and soil, to which I add crushed charcoal.
When a crust appears, be sure to loosen the soil, otherwise the seedlings will begin to suffocate.
It is recommended to pick seedlings when they have 2-3 true leaves. But they are still so tiny that this is problematic. It is precisely so that they do not drown out each other before picking, and I try to sow petunia seeds as rarely as possible. I plant petunia seedlings in separate cups when they already have 4-6 leaves. I make sure to add drainage to the bottom of each glass. It is advisable to treat the roots with some kind of growth stimulator, for example, Epin or Zircon. On the 5-6th day after this, I water it with a weak solution of complex fertilizer with a mandatory nitrogen content. I do this every third or fourth watering.
Immediately after picking, I pinch the tops of the petunias so that they bush better. I pinch ampelous varieties of petunias once in the phase of 3-4 leaves, and bush varieties - 2-3 times.
If the spring is not very sunny, you can water or spray the plants once with a growth stimulator.
The first two months after sowing, seedlings develop very slowly, because the plants build up their root system. At this stage, it is important not to miss the moment when the petunias begin to “grow” out of their cups. If you notice that the roots have filled the entire substrate, the plants need to be transplanted into larger pots as soon as possible, otherwise their development will slow down.
To summarize what petunias need at the seedling stage:

• well disinfected soil mixture;

• mandatory container drainage;

• temperature - 19-22 degrees;

• maximum lighting (but not direct sunlight);

• feeding;

• moderate watering;

• timely transplantation.

Propagation of petunias in peat tablets.

Pressed ones are now popular peat tablets for seedlings. They are really very convenient, especially when germinating expensive seeds. It saves space, it’s clean, you don’t have to mess with the soil, it’s almost impossible to overwater the plant, it’s very convenient to transplant the seedling into a pot or soil when it grows up, it doesn’t disturb root system, and the “tablet” in the ground disintegrates over time. . And they also contain preparations for root formation and improvement of seed germination, with microelements that are enough for the first time.
At the initial stage, plants do not oppress each other, tangling their roots. It is convenient and profitable to sow seeds of double and large-flowered petunias, which are usually sold in a shell, in peat tablets.
If you have the opportunity to highlight seedlings, sow in February, but if not, then it is better to sow at the end of March. Believe me, they will catch up with the February seedlings.
I put the tablets in warm water for 3-4 minutes, they swell, increasing in size by 3-4 times. I put the swollen tablets in the tray.
I also soak the seed granules in barely warm water. When they start to get a little wet, I crush them slightly and place them one at a time in the recess on the tablet.
I close the greenhouse and leave it on the windowsill. The temperature of the greenhouse is 23-25 ​​degrees.
Shoots, depending on the variety, appear on 6-7 days.
Further technology is approximately the same as when growing in substrate. I reduce the temperature to 20 degrees. But not lower, because more low temperature can kill seedlings. I noticed that the “black leg”, which is so destructive for seedlings, appears not only from overwatering the plant, but also when it is kept in the cold. Every day I ventilate the greenhouses and remove any drops from the lid.
You need to water the tablets into the pan, but carefully so as not to over-moisten the seedlings. Petunia seedlings grown on tablets are usually not affected by the “black leg”, at least I have never had one.
Again lighting is very important. Daylight hours at this stage should be at least 12 hours. If petunias have enough light, they do not stretch.
Immediately after the shoots emerge, I open the lid of the container.
I don’t pick plants grown on tablets at all. If they begin to stretch out too much, I plant the petunia together with the tablet in a glass, and top it with a universal soil mixture with added sand to drown the plant. I first remove the mesh from the tablet.
When 3-4 true leaves appear on the plants, I start feeding them. To do this, I use any water-soluble complex fertilizer such as nitroammophoska, but the concentration is lower than what is written on the package. In general, the main thing is that in this
The fertilizer contained nitrogen, which is responsible for plant growth. I fertilize with every third or fourth watering.
At the same time I begin to pinch the petunias. Bush several times, hanging only once. This makes the plants more luxuriant.
Once again I transplant the plants directly into containers or hanging baskets, if it’s still cold, then I transplant it into 400 ml transparent plastic cups. It is necessary to do this, because if the roots are already crowded, the plant’s growth is inhibited.
If you want petunia to bloom faster, add additional light to the plants. The thing is that petunia is a long-day flower, and the more light it receives, the sooner it will bloom. But there is one nuance here: at the initial stage of development, if petunias reduce daylight hours, instead of setting buds, they begin to bush. And the plants subsequently turn out more lush and flowering profusely.
Good luck to you!

Petunias are beautiful and unpretentious flowers for the garden. IN lately they are very popular for almost all summer residents. And, of course, with the arrival of spring, the question of when to plant petunia seedlings in 2019 becomes relevant.

You can, of course, grow these beautiful flowers from seeds in open ground. But petunia is a flower that is afraid of frost and therefore it is safer to pre-grow seedlings with color. And then transplant into prepared heated soil.

Magnificent petunias with their variety of petal colors are the most favorite plants for decorating, but this is the most favorable time for sowing such plants.

In order to get strong plants, it is important to follow the rules of agricultural technology. If everything is done correctly and in a timely manner, then at the end of May the eye will be pleased with the juicy bright buds of the most incredible colors.

About exactly when to plant petunia seedlings in February and March 2019 and how to grow them at home without losing sprouts is described in this material with a video at the end of the page.

How to choose petunia seeds

Petunia seeds themselves are very small, so many gardeners prefer pelleted varieties. On the one hand, due to their size, it is more convenient to sow them, on the other hand, there is a risk that if there is insufficient moisture, the shell will not dissolve well and will interfere with germination. There is no clear advice here, the choice is yours.

Timing for planting petunias for seedlings

It is important to know when to sow petunia seeds for seedlings. This flower has tiny seeds that take a long time to germinate.

In this regard, they must be sown well in advance of the planned date. Read on to learn about when to plant petunia seedlings in 2019 and what factors to adhere to.

Ampelous petunia and cascading flower varieties are sown earlier, as they take longer to develop and grow more slowly. Bush varieties are earlier ripening; they are sown 2 weeks later than climbing varieties.

The timing of sowing seeds is influenced by the grower's decision on where to plant petunia. If flowers are planned to be placed in flower beds in open ground, seedlings are planted in early June (for the Middle Zone).

For early flowering petunias on the balcony or terrace, flowers are planted in flowerpots and flower pots in mid and late May. On the balcony the air temperature is higher than at the surface of the earth. It is easier to bring flowerpots with flowers into the house or cover flower pots when it gets cold than in the garden.

Petunia cannot stand sub-zero temperatures! The plant is damaged already at -1 degree.

Gardeners preparing flowers for sale begin trading in early May. This means that sowing will begin no later than mid-February.

Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region

You need to choose a day based on the last spring frosts. Seed sowing begins when the soil and air are sufficiently warm. Dates for planting petunias for seedlings by region:

In the middle zone and Moscow region in open ground It is safe to remove seedlings in late May - early June. It follows from this that sowing of seeds is carried out no later than mid-March for early flowering bush varieties and no later than the end of February for hanging petunias.
IN Leningrad region The climate allows placing flowers in open ground no earlier than the first ten days - mid-June. Flowers are sown in March - early April.
In the Urals and Siberia, frosts can occur until June 15. Heat-loving flowers are grown here in pots and vases, so that in case of cold weather, the plants are carried into the warmth. Petunia seeds for growing seedlings are immersed in the ground in mid-March.
In the south of our country, the climate allows you to sow petunia directly into the ground in April. At first, the crops are covered with film or non-woven material, but in May there are no frosts and nothing threatens the young plants.
Planting petunia for seedlings in 2019 according to the lunar calendar

Petunia seeds are quite small, so they take a long time to germinate. You need to start sowing them in January so that many flowers appear at the beginning of summer. Sowing is planned for the waxing moon period.

There are no more left in January auspicious days, to sow for seedlings, but there are 3 good months ahead. Sowing according to the lunar calendar can be planned for:

February – 7, 11-13, 16, 17, 21-23;
March – 10 - 12, 15, 28-30;
April – 7-9, 11, 16-18, 25, 26.

Sowing, picking and transplanting should be avoided:

in February – 3-5, 19, 20;
in March – 5, 6, 21, 31;
in April – 5, 19.

What kind of soil is needed for planting petunia seeds?

If you have already selected varieties and determined the date when to plant petunias, then you can prepare the soil for seedlings. For such small seeds soil is the most important thing. In dense and heavy soil, the seeds will not be able to germinate; they need a very loose, light and moisture-intensive substrate.

You can use several options for soil mixtures for growing petunia seedlings, it all depends on what is available.

First option:

One piece of garden soil

Two parts peat

One part leaf humus

Second option:

One part ready-made universal primer

One part river sand

One part peat

Third option:

One piece of leaf soil from the forest

One part peat

Two pieces of garden soil

The most convenient option When sowing petunias, peat tablets are considered, in this case there is no need for picking, the plants are then immediately planted in the ground in tablets.

As you can see, you can make different mixtures, the main thing is that they are loose and retain moisture. To enrich the soil, potash fertilizers, wood ash and perlite or vermiculite are used as additives for looseness.

Lumps of earth or peat can interfere with germination, therefore, after mixing the soil, it is usually sifted through a sieve. All large fractions are thrown away so that nothing prevents the seeds from germinating.

What to plant petunia seeds for seedlings

Deep containers are not needed to grow petunia seedlings. Some boxes or special containers for gardening are enough.

Flower growers who have already grown petunia seedlings know that the sprouts are very small and delicate; at the slightest deviation from the norms in care, they simply die. Excess moisture is very dangerous for them. Therefore, we lay a layer of drainage at the bottom of the containers; it can be expanded clay or broken brick.

The soil also needs to be disinfected, poured with boiling water, steamed or frozen. Containers are also treated before sowing. Pour the soil within 1-1.5 cm of the edge of the container and level it well so that the surface becomes absolutely flat.

Preparing petunia seeds for sowing seedlings at home

Stages of seed treatment:

etching. The reception is carried out in order to prevent diseases. Can be done by keeping it in hot water(50 degrees) for 30 minutes or soaking in a manganese solution;
soaking. To speed up the germination process, keep the seeds in warm water (25-30 degrees) in a saucer, covered with gauze. As soon as the seeds absorb moisture, add a little water again. There shouldn't be too much water. As soon as the seeds hatch, they are dried and sown;
treatment with a solution of microelements. This accelerates seed germination, seedling growth and increases disease resistance.

Video: how to plant petunia seeds

Caring for petunia seedlings

Petunia seedlings are very small, so in the first days after emergence they need very careful care.

Light mode

The location of the containers with future seedlings should be light, otherwise you won’t even get seedlings. In the first days of growth, lighting can be almost around the clock, in further plant An 11-12 hour daylight hours will be sufficient.

If there is a lack of light, you should use lighting (phytolamps, fluorescent or LED lamps, which are installed at a height of about 20 cm above the seedlings), if there is an excess of direct sunlight, periodically shade the area or temporarily remove the boxes to another place.

Temperature

The temperature of the trays with germinating crops should be about 22-25°C (hybrid petunias are especially capricious in this regard). If the temperature is lower, the plants may not sprout; if higher, they are more likely to get sick.

As soon as the sprouts appear, to “harden” the plants, the temperature should be reduced: to 18-20°C during the day and 14-16°C at night. This can be achieved, for example, by moving the trays with seedlings further from the battery.

When the first true leaves appear, you can finally remove them. protective film(glass).

Watering petunias

The humidity regime is also very important for seedlings: excess moisture can contribute to plant rotting or infection with fungus (blackleg), and too little moisture can cause petunias to dry out.

In the first week, it is enough to spray the soil with seeds 1-2 times a day with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The emerging seedlings will require daily watering.

Water suitable for these purposes is soft, settled, without chlorine, room temperature, you can take melt water. You can water the seedlings using the “bottom” method (through a tray), you can pour water along the inner walls of the tray, or you can inject it dropwise from a syringe directly under the roots of the seedlings.

In cloudy weather, it is best to water the seedlings in the morning, and in sunny weather, in the evening.

Feeding petunia seedlings

Very weak seedlings can be sprayed 1-2 times over the entire period with a growth stimulator (Epin, Heteroauxin, Bud, Ovary, Pollen). 6-7 days after the sprouts appear, you can feed them with mineral fertilizers (this procedure is repeated no earlier than 10 days later). For the website: http://svegienovosti.ru/

Good afternoon, dear readers!

The long-awaited time has come when we began to think about seedlings. In today's article we will talk about petunia, where we will go into detail on how to grow this wonderful flower from seeds, taking into account favorable and unfavorable days. Many gardeners fell in love with this flower because, having planted it on personal plot or a flowerpot it blooms throughout the summer, until the onset of cold weather. This plant is also famous for its wide palette bright colors, unpretentiousness, splendor and long flowering, thanks a lot breeders.

As a rule, petunia is grown through seedlings. If the seeds are planted immediately in the ground, the plant will bloom only by the end of summer. And if early frosts come, then you may not wait for flowering.

You need to take care of the seedlings in advance, starting in February, because the plants will bloom 2 months after the first shoots. early varieties or after 3 months late varieties. It is necessary to plant plants in flowerpots, flowerpots or flower beds after the last frost, because this fragrant annual flower does not tolerate temperatures below 0 degrees. Petunia seeds germinate in up to 10 days.

Self-grown seedlings guarantee the safety of seedlings, and this is the main requirement when choosing plants. Infected or diseased flowers can not only die themselves, but also harm nearby growing plants.

However, many gardeners face difficulties growing seedlings from seeds, and our article will help with this, thanks to which flowers of incredible splendor, fragrant and bright will bloom on your territory all summer long. And neighbors and random guests will pester you with questions and requests to reveal all the secrets to achieve such success in growing petunia.

How to choose petunia seeds for seedlings in open ground?

Today, breeders have developed varieties and hybrids of many shapes and shades. So unpretentious plant, adapted to the unpredictable climatic conditions middle lane. Petunias tolerate cold weather well down to two to three degrees Celsius, are shade-tolerant, and can go without water for a long time. And at the same time, they bloom from the beginning of June until frost.

The range offered on the market is amazing. And it is very difficult for a novice gardener not to get confused. Where and how petunia will grow is the main criterion for selection planting material. In general, all petunias are divided into: bush-like and ampelous or curly, cascading.

Types of petunias for flower beds and flower beds

For open ground, multi-flowered and large-flowered bush varieties are the most suitable.

• Multifloral varieties are plants that are familiar to our eyes, up to 35 cm high, with a heap of funnel-shaped flowers of small sizes from four to eight centimeters in diameter. The varieties are adapted to weather changes and are undemanding to the soil. Perfect for beginner gardeners. The varieties differ: according to the shape of the bud: simple and double; by color into single-color and two-color. Widely used to decorate clubs and borders. In single plantings they grow quickly, forming a multi-colored carpet. In group plantings they look great next to tall plants.

The classification of multi-flowered petunias is presented to a small extent; the following types exist:

• Large-flowered bush varieties, or floribundas as they are also called, have also taken root well in middle lane. They are distinguished by large flowers up to thirteen centimeters of simple, corrugated or double shape. The variety of colors is also amazing. The flowers are either bright colors with a white fringed edge or soft pastel colors with a darker center. The plant is more compact, up to 25 cm high. Suitable for decorating flower beds and alpine slides, and for growing in flowerpots and balcony boxes.

Classification of bush petunias:

The most common series of bush petunias are Hit Parade, Highlight, Hula Hoop, Polaris, Storm, Daddy, Pikoti. All flowers in this series are characterized by original color and a large flower.

Growing petunias in flowerpots or pots

In addition to floribunda petunias, small-flowered varieties are suitable for these purposes. Small bushes of only 15-20 cm are densely strewn small flowers. They usually have a single color. But by correctly choosing several shades for one flowerpot, you can get a spectacular decoration for a summer veranda, gazebo or balcony.

Growing in pots and creating small architectural forms

And here various varieties of ampelous petunias will come to the rescue. Unfortunately, they are the most demanding to care for. But if you push yourself a little, the results will please you.

• Ampelous mini-petunias are characterized by the formation of long shoots falling down from flowerpots or tall flowerpots strewn with small flowers. The buds are up to 3 cm in diameter, simple funnel-shaped. The range of colors is wide. The flowers are mostly two-colored. According to experienced gardeners, hanging varieties are useful for creating flower beds with different terms growing season. For example, there is a flowerbed with early bulbous plants: crocuses, tulips or daffodils. Their flowering ends by June. If you carefully plant several ampelous petunias between them, then as they grow, they will hide the unsightly plantings and give the flowerbed a second life.
• Ampelous cascade petunia, or in the language of gardeners “surfinia”, after the name of the company that selected the hybrid. Its shoots are more powerful. Suitable for growing in flowerpots and balcony boxes, as well as for creating arches, decorating gazebos and hedges. It will help to hide an unsightly corner of the garden behind large bright flowers up to 8 cm. Flowers of simple shape or double. Among the hybrids there are semi-ampelous varieties, which allow you to create bright flower balls in areas.
• Perfect for decorating the walls of balconies or gazebos would be better suited ampelous giant cascading petunia is one of the latest hybrids. Its one and a half meter long hard lashes are completely strewn with flowers.

What soil to choose for planting petunia seedlings?

The beautiful petunia is good for everyone, except for one thing - it belongs to the category of annuals. It needs to be planted annually and planted exclusively through seedlings and at home for several reasons:

• Flowering begins two to three months after germination. Seeds can germinate up to three weeks, sometimes even a month. This means that in order to admire the flowers in June, you need to sow seeds for seedlings almost in January.
• The flower sprouts are very small and thin - they can easily be weeded out along with the weeds or even lost among the grass.
• Young petunias are sensitive to waterlogged soil or drought. Heavy rain or overwatering can be detrimental.

Properly selected soil is one of the important factors influencing the production of good seedlings. Several options are possible:

• Prepare the soil mixture yourself. To do this, mix one part of humus and garden soil and two parts of sand.
• Coconut fiber. Sold in briquettes, sheets, granules. When mixed with garden soil in a 2:1 ratio you get good loose soil for petunias.

• Peat tablets are a fairly new invention. This method has advantages: containers for them do not take up much space, and there are special mini-greenhouses on sale. As petunias grow, all tablets with sprouts of ampelous varieties are transplanted immediately onto permanent place- in a flowerpot or flowerpot. Bush varieties are planted in containers with a diameter of 5-7 cm before planting in the ground. But there is also a minus - the price of both peat tablets and the seeds themselves. In order to save money, taking into account the difficulty of seed germination, some gardeners plant up to three or four petunias in one tablet. According to the law of meanness, not a single seed may sprout in one tablet, but all in another. The question immediately arises: what to do? Leave it as is or try to plant it?

• Buy special soil in the store.

Dates for planting petunia seeds for seedlings according to the lunar calendar 2019.

IN lunar calendar you can believe it or not. But in the case of such a capricious petunia, it is better to play it safe. Moreover, in 2019, according to the agreement, favorable days fall on the waxing Moon, which will allow you not to make a painful choice.

Favorable days fall:

• on the 6th, 8th, 16th, 17th of February;
• on the 7th, 15th, 16th of March;
• 7-9, 16-19, 25, 26 April.

A favorable period for petunia is when the Moon is in the constellations Aquarius, Virgo, Capricorn, Taurus, Gemini, Libra. These days in the best possible way roots are formed in plants.

Inadmissible and undesirable days for planting any plants fall:

• on the 4th, 5th, 18th, 19th of February;
• March 3, 4, 5, 6, 17, 18, 21, 30, 31;
• April 1, 4-6, 10, 11, 14, 15, 20, 27-29.

Important! Try not to sow, pick, feed or plant plants in the ground 12 hours before and after the Full Moon or New Moon.

Planting petunia seedlings depending on the climatic characteristics of the region:

The period for planting seeds for seedlings is short and limited to one month, and the timing depends on the region. It is worth remembering that by the time of planting the plant should have a strong, well-formed, well-leafed bush and preferably buds ready for flowering. There is no need to be afraid to hold the seedlings too long before planting them in a permanent place - flowering plants tolerate replanting well. In case of failure, at early sowing dates, there is a chance to correct everything by sowing the seeds in the second round.

Petunias are transplanted into open ground when the threat of night frosts has passed.

Moscow and Moscow region

The best time to sow seeds will be the first half of February. In this case, by mid-May, worthy candidates for the flower garden will grow.

Siberia and the Urals

In areas with a sharply continental climate, it is better to start planting petunias in a permanent place no earlier than the end of May or the beginning of June. This means that seeds for seedlings should be sown at the end of February or beginning of March.

Volga region

The timing approximately coincides with the timing of sowing seeds in the Moscow region. Only in southern regions they may be shifted to earlier dates, by about a week.

Leningrad region

In the Leningrad region, the sowing time for bushy petunias is the middle and second half of February, for hanging varieties - early February.

Timing for planting petunias in Ukraine

The average night temperature in the Kyiv region reaches positive levels by the end of March. The threat of night frosts may persist until mid-April. Accordingly, the time for sowing seeds for seedlings is the first half of January, and in the southern regions the last days of December. But in addition to temperature, light has a great influence on plant development. Petunia is a light-loving plant, especially seedlings, for which the daylight hours should be from 16 to 18 hours. If it is possible to provide additional lighting to the plants, then you can try. If not, then it’s better to wait until the first days of February.

Preparing seeds for planting and sowing at home

No special preparation of seeds for planting is required. Some experienced gardeners advise keeping petunia seeds in the refrigerator. Of course not in freezer, and in a container on the door.

Petunia seeds are very small and cause a lot of inconvenience at the time of sowing. It is difficult to distribute them evenly over the surface of the soil, and they can fall to the bottom of the container. Currently, the sale of granulated seeds coated with a layer of mineral fertilizers is common. Such seeds are much more expensive and there are no more than 12 of them in a pack. But their germination rate is much higher, and it will be easier for a novice gardener to sow seeds.

Petunias are sown for seedlings in several ways - each grower eventually understands which one is closer to him.

• The prepared soil is placed in containers, compacted well, moistened and compacted again. Seeds are sown on it. If granulated seeds are used, then they are laid out in increments of 3-4 cm, the distance between the rows is not about 5 cm. The top is lightly mulched with peat. Spray very carefully and lightly with water from a spray bottle.

To improve seed germination, the following techniques are used.

• Landing on snow. A dense layer of snow, half a centimeter thick, is laid on top of the soil. And the seeds are already sown on it. The snow melts, moistening the soil, and the seeds remain on the surface.
• Planting with sand. Non-granulated seeds are mixed with sand and sown. Using this will make the plantings more uniform.
• Sowing on toilet paper. Yes, yes. Ordinary Soviet-style toilet paper, three-layer, should not be used. It will not allow the seeds to fall to the bottom of the container, and by dissolving in a humid environment, it will allow the root system to develop.

• Planting in peat tablets. Peat tablets are placed in a container or mini-greenhouse and poured with boiling water. Petunias are sown into the swollen and cooled tablets. This method is most suitable for granulated seeds. Sow flowers one or two granules per tablet.

• Planting petunia seeds in boiling water. This is a new sensational planting method, for which you need to pour the seeds on top of the soil and use a syringe or bulb to pour boiling water on top. It must be planted in a container.

Further actions are the same. Containers are closed with glass or plastic lids in case of using mini-greenhouses, or are delayed plastic film. Place in a dark, cool place for a week. Many gardeners prefer to store containers in the refrigerator until germination. But if the seeds were hardened before planting, then the containers are immediately transferred to a warm place with a temperature of about 24 degrees.

Caring for petunia seedlings (watering, processing, fertilizing)

Caring for seedlings consists of watering, airing, hardening, lighting, maintaining optimal temperature, fertilizing and, if necessary, picking.

Watering

Watering is carried out in a timely manner and very carefully, especially at an early stage. The soil should always be moderately moist. The crust that forms due to insufficient watering does not allow the root system to receive sufficient oxygen, which leads to the death of plants. Overmoistening threatens petunia with a disease such as blackleg. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out spot watering at the root warm water once every two to three days. A medical syringe or syringe is perfect for these purposes. small size. You should not use a sprayer until the plants gain strength, although it is convenient.

Ventilation

After emergence, the cover should be periodically removed. First for 10-20 minutes, then the time should be gradually increased to two hours a day. At this time, it is necessary to wipe the surface of the covering material from accumulated condensate.

Backlight

The seedlings should be in a well-lit place, but without direct sunlight. During the period from January to March, it is recommended to provide additional lighting. It is optimal if the daylight hours for petunia seedlings are about 16 hours. The lamps are placed at some distance from containers with plants so that their leaves do not get burned.

Optimal temperature for seedlings

The optimal temperature for growing seedlings is 20-22 degrees. Three weeks after germination, you can begin hardening off the plants. Why do you need to briefly reduce the air temperature in the room to 16-18 degrees? It is enough to open the window slightly. Of course, if it’s twenty-degree frosts outside, then it’s better to leave everything as it is. More active hardening is carried out before planting seedlings in the ground. About a month before the due date, they begin to take her out onto the balcony or veranda.

Picking

Picking when growing petunias is a controversial issue. The procedure itself correct implementation benefits the root system. It is carried out at the stage of four true leaves. But since the plants are small during this period, it can be carried out without losses for the flowers and their own nervous system difficult.

The issue is resolved by growing seedlings in peat tablets. In this case, they are simply moved into cups and covered with soil. Many gardeners recommend either initially sowing seeds of hanging varieties in a permanent place or planting them directly into pots or flowerpots.

Dive plants into separate cups from containers, carefully with a lump of earth at the root. When picking, the stem is buried down to the first true leaves. You don’t have to be afraid of damaging the root, it’s not afraid of that. The main thing is not to break the flower itself.

Top dressing

First foliar feeding carried out two weeks after picking with a solution of the drug “Citron” to improve the development of the root system. Then once every two weeks they alternately add complex fertilizers and growth stimulants.

Planting petunia seedlings in the ground

In May, flowers intended for growing in flower beds are planted in prepared holes. The holes are up to 25 cm deep, arranged in accordance with the desired club pattern, but preferably no more than 6-8 plants per one square meter. A handful of humus, wood ash and sand are poured into the hole. Petunias place a hole, straighten the roots and cover with soil. The soil is crushed and watered abundantly.

Petunia is planted in open ground already with buds and even flowers. At this time, the age of the plant ranges from 60-75 days.

There is one important point. Even if it seems that the flower has died, you should not dig it up. You need to cut it at a distance of a couple of centimeters from the ground, feed it mineral fertilizer and wait. It is likely that it will still please you with flowering.

Petunia diseases, prevention and treatment

How to grow petunia seedlings from seeds - easy and simple! These flowers are very popular and bloom beautifully from June until cold weather. You can, of course, buy a couple of bushes for a flowerpot, but you can’t buy enough for a large flowerbed. And it’s better to grow the seedlings yourself. Petunia is unpretentious and there should be no special problems with its cultivation. There are simply some peculiarities that need to be taken into account when sowing and caring for them in order to get beautiful lush bushes. What are the features? Planting timing It is usually recommended to sow petunia very early. In February, or better yet in January. This method is not bad for experienced gardeners or those who grow seedlings for sale, so that in April they are already blooming on the counter. But with petunia you’ll have a lot of fun while you’re growing it, watering it, picking it. Why complicate your life and add more light to the seedlings? And when sowing in early dates You need to keep the young shoots under the lamp for three days without turning them off! And then it is necessary to add additional lighting. I’m not fit for such feats, so I always sow petunia in mid-March, and in 10 days I’ll start sowing. Let it bloom in June, not April - this is very good, because then it will bloom constantly until the cold weather! It usually takes about three months, just in June it will be possible to plant them outside. Otherwise, in the Urals there may be frosts in the beginning and middle of June, but petunia does not like frosts - it will die. And the overgrown seedlings will stretch out and wither on the window - only tears. Preparing the soil for seedlings Petunias love slightly acidic soil. Therefore, they will like the purchased soil. It's basically all peat based. If you make soil for seedlings yourself, then take 2 parts of humus and peat, you can add 1 part of garden soil. The main thing is that the soil is light and allows water and air to pass through well. You can acidify it by watering it with lemon water. I seem to have told you everything about the land, let’s move on to sowing. Sowing petunia seeds Let's start with a container. It is better to take a transparent container with a lid or cake packaging. Be sure to do it more holes so that the water does not stagnate. The easiest way to kill petunia seedlings is to flood them with water. She will die from the black leg. When the holes are made, fill in the soil, press down a little and moisten. Petunia seeds are very small. To distribute them more evenly, you can sow with a toothpick! We wet the tip in water, take one seed (it sticks) and place it on the ground. You can make furrows in the ground and sow seeds along them. The distance is about 0.5 cm between the seeds. Well, they've laid it out. Now just press the seeds into the ground and DO NOT cover them with soil. Petunias germinate in the light. And they are so small that they cannot simply get out of the ground. Now we close our container with a lid or cover the container with film or glass and place it in a warm place. No need to put it on the battery! - they will cook or dry out before they have time to sprout. Just any warm place. Usually, seeds germinate very quickly and amicably. Their seeds usually germinate 100%, but it’s not clear what variety they will get. They pollinate heavily with each other. But more on this later. After a week, or even earlier, the petunia seeds germinate. There is no need to remove the lid or film immediately; we gradually accustom it to dry air, for a couple of hours at first. In a couple of days you can open it completely. When a couple of leaves appear, we pick. You can sow petunia seeds in peat tablets, 1 seed per each. And then it’s easy to replant, right with the tablet. Picking This is such an incomprehensible word, but in fact we are simply planting our small petunias in large containers one at a time. It is convenient to put them into cassettes, perhaps with 4 by 4 cm cells, or into yogurt cups. It is advisable to then replant it in a larger container so that the roots grow. Petunia transplants are not afraid and are tolerated very well. Of course, when you first see these hair-thin roots, your hands shake and you don’t know which side to approach them from. The main thing is not to be afraid. Petunias are “live” and grow back easily. Prepare in advance everything you will transplant them into. Pour containers, cassettes, and soil into them, moisten them, and make a hole. Now moisten the soil with the seedlings. Take the toothpick again, carefully pry one flower at a time and transfer it to the prepared hole. Then you press it down with earth. You can deepen it a little, it will even be good. Petunia seedlings at home Picking implies that the tip of the root needs to be pinched off from the plant when transplanting better development root system. To be honest, I don’t pinch anything, it comes off on its own when transplanting, while you take it out with a toothpick! After such picking, in two weeks the petunias will grow well and can be transplanted into larger pots or cups. Care: watering and forming petunias Petunias love water and sun. But while they are small, they need to be watered very carefully, under the root. Straight from a teaspoon. And you can’t flood them; they will wither and rot in the “swamp.” Plants need to be pinched. If you leave it to grow as is, you will have two or three long branches sticking out, and few flowers. And if you trim the ends, the side branches will begin to grow and you will get a lush, beautiful bush. U flowering plants you need to pick off wilted flowers, then new ones will appear faster and more. Many people like to plant petunias in flowerpots, pots and decorate a balcony or area. Don’t try to plant a lot of plants there, they will oppress each other. It is enough to plant 1-2 bushes per 5-liter pot. And if surfinias, cascading, ampelous, then they need 7-10 liters per plant. Petunias grow a lot of roots, and there simply isn’t enough soil in the pot. It needs to be constantly fed and watered. By the way, about fertilizers. In the summer I insist on different herbs and water everything I can. Just push a bucket of grass, add water and leave for two weeks. Then I add a liter of water to a watering can or bucket when watering. And the seedlings grow normally even without fertilizers, the first two months are slow, really. But then they begin to increase before our eyes. Before planting outside, seedlings need to be hardened off. If you have a balcony or veranda, then take it there for a day in April. And when it’s more than +5C at night, you can leave it overnight. When it gets cold, of course, you need to bring it home. Petunias do not like frosts even when sub-zero temperature die. Petunia diseases Spider mites - petunias usually get sick from home flowers. The leaves turn yellow and a thin cobweb appears on them. It is necessary to fight and treat with phytoverm or actofite according to the instructions twice with a break of 3-4 days. And don’t forget to spray all the flowers around you against ticks. Violation temperature regime– heat – a purple tan appears on the leaves, and then they turn yellow. You can spray with any fertilizer containing ammonium, or dilute ammonia (1 ml per 5 liters of water) and spray directly on the leaves. And of course, transfer the plants to normal cool temperatures. Chlorosis or iron deficiency – petunias are very sensitive to iron deficiency. And they do not absorb it well from alkaline soil. And our water also contributes to alkalization of the soil. Therefore, for prevention, I water the plants with water and lemon juice. For two liters of water 2 grams. citric acid– dissolve and water. Varieties and hybrids This, of course, is everyone’s personal choice as to what is best to plant. Varietal flowers are not as gorgeous as hybrids, but you can collect your own seeds from them. Even if they cross-pollinate, they can turn out even more interesting than the parents. But hybrids (F and F) need to be bought every time, they have almost no seeds, and what does ripen will lose all its beauty in the next generations. This year I am planting large-flowered varieties: Alba, Burgundy, Dark Purple and Bluebird. AND ampelous petunia Rapunzel. Then I’ll write what happened.

Surely, in the summer you have more than once paid attention to the hanging flowerpots with gorgeous petunias that were installed in street cafes, restaurants, and parks. And very often it happened that after some time, when you came there again, not a trace remained of the former beauty of the petunias. Yellow, dried lashes, single small flowers. What is this? Apparently, the conditions for growing petunia were not met. Meanwhile, petunia is a very grateful flower and, if you follow the rules of its cultivation, it will bloom profusely, almost non-stop, from May until frost. Do you want to know how to grow beautiful petunia? Then read on.

Let's say you've already grown. Or you bought it ready-made on the market - it doesn’t matter. Main goal, which stands in front of you - turn frail sprouts into fluffy ones, flowering bushes. So, let's start from the beginning - we will plant our seedlings in flowerpots, flowerpots and balcony boxes. This should be done only after constant positive temperatures have established at night, without the threat of frost.

Petunia at home needs good nutrition. Yes, flowering surfinias from nurseries are often sold in small liter pots, where cunning growers manage to plant 2-3 plants at once. This is done only to ensure the momentary attractiveness of the flower. You have probably observed more than once that such plants do not live long. Everything is correct! There is not enough food. Therefore, we will learn from the mistakes of others and follow the rules: small bush petunias can be planted in flower pots and boxes, at the rate of 1-2 liters of soil per plant. Cascade petunias, most ampels, and surfinias are more voracious, so they need to be provided with 3-5 liters of soil per plant. Petunias Typhoon and Tornado are especially powerful, the minimum volume of soil for them is 7 liters per plant, and better - 10-15 liters.

When deciding at what distance to plant petunia, take it for granted that between the central stems of the bushes you need to maintain 15-20 cm. If you plant the seedlings more densely, then in adulthood the stronger specimens will inevitably oppress the weaker ones, since the branches will have nowhere to grow.

A distance of 15-20 cm must be maintained between petunias, otherwise adult plants will be cramped in such company within a month

I would like to draw attention to the quality of modern plastic boxes, in which petunia is most often grown on the balcony. These are thin-walled boxes with a depth of only 12-15 cm, length - from 30 cm or more. The depth of this container is very small and does not allow even a normal drainage layer (5 cm). Therefore, if you have the opportunity, purchase deeper boxes (for example, made in Italy) - the petunias will thank you for it! If this is not possible, you will have to save on drainage. Well, make more drainage holes in the plastic bottom of the box (with a hot nail or a screwdriver), pour a layer of expanded clay (0.5-1 cm) inside so that the holes do not become clogged with earth and work according to plan, that is, they release excess moisture. After this, you can start planting.

What kind of soil is needed for petunias?

Petunias that are grown in boxes and flower pots require a special soil composition. It should be loose, moisture-permeable, light. In this regard, a purchased one is good universal primer based on peat. As additives, it is recommended to dilute it with leavening agents (perlite or vermiculite), a small amount of sand and vermicompost. Some gardeners grow petunias in the following soil: garden soil is mixed with peat soil and baking powder in a ratio of 3:3:0.5. The soil for petunias should not consist only of garden soil - it is too heavy, cracks between waterings and does not allow the roots to “breathe”.

All four sides of the world...

Important conditions for growing petunias are light and air. Moreover, these two components are equally important. Petunia will wither in deep shade (for example, on a balcony darkened by trees), as well as on a light but glazed loggia, where there is little fresh air flow.

Petunia loves open and sunny balconies southern and southeastern orientation, in which it will bloom especially luxuriantly. However, modern varieties of petunias (for example, supertunia, minitunia, fortunia) also perform well on the north side, being planted in balcony boxes. Therefore, if you have a northern balcony, never choose simple petunias for it, they will stretch and bloom sparingly, only expensive seeds of modern hybrids will save you. Do not spare money - luxurious flowers are worth it!

Supertunia can look wonderful even on a northern balcony, provided it is properly cared for

Petunia cannot withstand drought for long: its leaves sag and the flowers become like wet rags. If this state did not last long, then all the beauty of the flower is restored if it is watered. But regular drying should not be allowed, since the petunia will gradually begin to dry out, turn yellow, and lose its visual appeal. Moreover, there will almost certainly be a drop in the plant’s immunity, which means that it will get sick and catch any disease that “flies” past in the form of a tick, whitefly or powdery mildew. All in all, proper watering- This important condition successful cultivation of petunia.

In summer, during flowering, petunia needs to be watered often - morning and evening. If you cannot provide high-quality watering, add hydrogel to the soil or use ceramic funnel cones to moisten the soil

Water the petunia thoroughly until water begins to come out of the drainage holes. In this case, you will be sure that the lump of earth has been completely wetted. Usually in summer, petunia is watered 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Important rule: Never start watering when the hot sun is shining on the flowers. You will ensure that the roots in the wet soil begin to “cook”, and this can lead to the death of the plant. Based on the orientation of your balcony, create your own watering schedule. For example, if the direct rays of the sun fall on it from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., then water the plantings at 7 a.m. and at 15:00 (or a little later, for example, immediately as soon as you come home from work in the evening).

Please note that in May and early June, when petunias are already spending the night on the balcony (street), it is still quite cool at night. Therefore, try not to water the plants late in the evening to avoid overcooling the roots. The same can be said about autumn - September and October. In summer, such precautions are irrelevant.

Shower for petunias

In dry summer days Petunias should be sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle. This will be a good preventative measure and will saturate the plant with moisture from the outside. Evening heavy spraying has a great effect on the condition of petunias, making them healthier and stronger. Spraying should be carried out when the sun leaves your balcony. Otherwise, they will definitely remain on the plants. sunburn- the rays will pass through drops of water, as if through lenses, and burn through the sheet plate.

Removing flowers for... flowering

In order to achieve a magnificent and constant flowering, you need to regularly pick off faded flowers (along with the seed pod). If you don’t do this, the plant will direct all its energy to ripening the seeds and will forget about flowering for a long time. And he will look very unkempt! Therefore, experienced petunia growers spend 10-15 minutes every day removing the ovaries - this stimulates the formation of new buds and flowers.

Formation of petunia - summer haircuts for future beauty

By mid-summer, petunias usually begin to bloom worse, the vines become longer, and the flowers become smaller. In order to return the plants to their decorative appearance, they are pruned. Bush petunias you can cut it radically, leaving 10-12 cm. The haircut of the ampels is not so radical - the lashes are shortened by about half their length.

This petunia was pruned almost to a stump 2 weeks ago! And now it’s already blooming!

Don't be afraid to prune petunias, don't spare them! You will see, the branches and leaves will grow quite quickly and in just 2 weeks, instead of the aging frail “freak”, you will get a young magnificent bush of lush greenery and flowers. During this period, it is very important to do it correctly and regularly. Then she will tolerate pruning very easily and will respond to it with the rapid growth of new branches and abundant flowering.

Petunias can be trimmed several times a season, usually done in mid-summer (July) and early autumn (September).

Petunia diseases - what can overshadow the lush flowering?

Petunia is not a capricious plant, but it can also be damaged by a number of diseases. The most common disease that petunia bushes typically encounter each summer is. On lower leaves in this case, a powdery white coating appears that smells like mushrooms (which is not surprising, since powdery mildew is caused by a fungus). The leaves themselves turn yellow, lose turgor and hang like lifeless rags. Getting rid of powdery mildew is quite simple if you use antifungal drugs (Fundazol, Emerald, Topaz, etc.).

Sometimes suspicious midges begin to hover over the petunia. Most often this is, to destroy which you can use any insecticide, for example “Aktara” or the more armor-piercing “Aktellik” and “Fitoverm”. You can also destroy a close relative of the whitefly - aphids.

Well, the worst thing that can happen to petunias is... A small arachnid settles on the lower part of the leaf blades and begins to suck out the juice, systematically leading the plant to death. To destroy the pest, you should use acaricides - “Fitoverm”, “Aktellik”, etc.

Sometimes adult petunia turns yellow. This can happen due to disturbed temperature conditions, the presence of harmful “living creatures” or chlorosis – a lack of iron. occurs due to disturbances in the vital functions of the plant, which ceases to absorb iron in the required amount. A similar disease is treated by spraying the plant and watering the soil with various iron-containing preparations - “Ferrovit”, “Micro Fe”, etc.