Sewer riser made of plastic pipes. Important rules and tips for installing sewerage from plastic pipes

Often, in the process of replacing a pipeline, you have to deal with the fact that the diameter of one end of the line is 110 mm, and the cross-section of the other is larger or smaller. And how to replace a sewer riser? A compensator will come in handy - an excellent transition device, specifically designed for connecting elements with a difference in cross-section.

By definition, a compensator is a device for compensating linear extensions of a pipe system. Each material has individual linear expansion indicators, so an expansion joint is not needed for every pipe line. The relevance of the element increases if there is a sewer system hidden in the screed or wall. In appearance, the element is a corrugated pipe equipped with connecting flanges on both sides.

Important! The use of flanges is shown for pipes with a cross-section of 63-110 mm; for pipes with a diameter of up to 63 mm, a threaded compensator is available, as well as an element equipped with a rubber corrugated seal and a union nut.

A plastic sewer compensator is indicated for repairing/replacing a PVC pipe riser without dismantling the entire system. Representing a piece of a curved shape, the compensator has the same cross-section as the elements of the main line and is inserted by cutting out the piece and fusing the compensator with a blowtorch.

Advice! Compensators are mounted only on sewer structures or water pipes for hot water.

Often, the installation of an element is required to renovate a bathroom or toilet room, when differences in floor level require raising or lowering the cross on the riser to arrange the angle of drainage into the sewer.

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Polypropylene elements have almost universally replaced old metal ones sewer risers. Thanks to its undoubted advantages, plastic is becoming more and more in demand. However, in order to get a truly high-quality insertion result and install the compensator correctly, you need to take into account some simple factors:

  1. Take into account the thickness of the pipe walls;
  2. Calculate the length of the sewer line in order to calculate the approximate force of pressure on the welded (soldered) seams;
  3. For a pipeline with a cross-section of 110 mm, only flanged pipes are used;
  4. If pipes have a cross-section of less than 110 mm, it is most practical to use threaded connection, and it is better to choose pipe fittings PN 10, 16, mounted during installation plumbing systems cold water supply - they are denser and more durable.

Important! It is very reasonable to provide thick pipe walls with increased strength, for which a welded installation method is used. Welding is also indispensable if the sewerage pipeline is intended to be used in conditions of increased temperature exposure.

Scheme of operation of inserting into a plastic riser:

  1. Cut out part of the pipe, treating the riser with a file to remove burrs;
  2. Cover the upper part of the pipe with sealant;
  3. Push the pipe all the way in;
  4. Cover the lower part with sealant;
  5. secure the compensator by inserting it into the pipeline socket;
  6. connect the system and secure the riser.

And advice: to connect a pipeline whose elements are made of them different materials a system of fittings equipped with a polymer coupling and pipe thread. Now you don’t have to guess why the pipe is needed and what to do with the PVC pipeline if it is leaky - the compensator will allow you to quickly and without much labor and time to repair the breakdown without disassembling the entire system.

The comfort of residents of an apartment or private house is impossible without a high-quality sewer system. Imported furniture and chic design in the rooms they have no weight if the drains leak. Therefore, before laying a water supply system, proper installation of PVC sewer pipes or cast iron structures is required. Let's consider the features of working with a plastic pipeline, since outlet communications are increasingly made of PVC. We'll tell you about the algorithm of work, share the secrets and tricks of professionals.

Selection of materials for sewerage

In 99% of cases, when installing sewer systems, plastic pipes (polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene) are used. Benefits of communications from synthetic materials– in lightness, ease of assembly, resistance to hydrothermal loads and corrosion, durability.

PVC products are most often used when laying sewers

Note: For sewer structures can be used plastic parts much smaller thickness than for water supply, since the pressure is lower.

Diameter is the key factor to consider. This value depends on the type of plumbing equipment. Minimum diameters:

  • bidets and sinks – from 32-40 mm;
  • showers and baths – from 50 mm;
  • if more than one device is supposed to be connected to the pipe - from 70-85 mm;
  • main risers – from 100 mm.

Before you begin installing sewer pipes with your own hands, draw up detailed diagram future communication system with calculations of consumables. Calculate the number and footage of parts and fittings.

Treat joints and fastening points with fittings with sealants for strength.

Using a common drain for several plumbing fixtures will save money and space in the room, and the result will be more aesthetically pleasing. Select the desired pipe diameter based on the recommendations above - sink, bathtub, washing machine can be connected to one pipe going to a common riser. The toilet must be connected directly to the riser - separately.

Preparatory work

It is possible to dismantle sewer pipes and lay new communications in a private house within a day to several days, in an apartment - from 1-2 to several hours. An illiterate approach and lack of a plan will drag out the event for weeks. Therefore, prepare thoroughly before starting work.

  1. Determine the type, location and quantity of plumbing fixtures, pipes and fittings.
  2. Make a diagram.
  3. Calculate the stock of additional parts needed for the operation of the system (meterage of the structure, consumption of mixtures and fittings, count with a reserve).
  4. If in the future you plan to install additional plumbing with a sewer drain, it is rational to leave a drain for it with a plug. Otherwise, you will have to change the system and dismantle the sewer pipes again.
  5. Buy consumables.
  6. According to the diagram, calculate the length of the sections, cut the pipes, taking into account the dimensions of the purchased fittings.

When marking a PVC product, make marks around the entire circumference

How to cut and strip PVC pipes

To cut plastic parts, just as when installing cast iron sewer pipes, use a hacksaw.

Cutting algorithm:

  1. Mark the location of the cut in a circle - this will ensure a smooth edge, which will ensure the tightness of the joints.
  2. Cut strictly at a 90° angle.
  3. Then trim the ends sandpaper or a knife.

Please note that waste system it is installed on a slope, since the sewage system works based on the force of gravity. Fix the slope with brackets on the walls. You need to buy them in advance along with other materials.

Installation of sewerage from PVC sections

To avoid leaks and inconsistencies, when assembling the sewer system, it is recommended to move in the direction from the riser to plumbing fixtures.

Attach the PVC communication to the wall every 100 cm, this will prevent subsidence and breakage

Instructions for installing sewerage from plastic pipes:

  1. Mark the axes of pipelines, places of fastening to walls and other surfaces.
  2. Assemble fasteners from pipes, pipes and fittings using sealed rubber bands. Insert the parts into each other until they stop. Make sure that the surfaces to be bonded are clean. Dirt will break the seal of the connection. And this leads to leaks and the appearance of an unpleasant odor due to moisture condensation (at joints, from sinks, bathtubs and the sewer itself).
  3. Connect the structural parts, check the horizontal and vertical to ensure that the fastenings are level and secure.
  4. Fasten the products with clamps, lay horizontal structures to siphons and plumbing outlets.

Tip: to improve the tightness, craftsmen advise lubricating the ends of the segments with non-acidic sealants, soap solution, auto sealants or glycerin-based lubricants.

  1. When the system is assembled, connect all the plumbing fixtures one by one, including siphons from the bathtub and sinks.

Rules for laying sewerage indoors

Try to reduce the number of joints and turns; seamless communication is more reliable and durable. Every fastening point is a potential threat of future leaks; turns increase the risk of blockages.

For a high-quality result, follow the rules for installing sewer pipes:

  1. When working with plumbing fixtures, take into account the characteristics of the material; each mixing unit has its own technology.
  2. When calculating the diameter of products, take into account the slope angle and the number of connected devices. In the area of ​​connection to the riser, use a diameter of 100-150 mm.
  3. Direct the sockets of the riser and horizontal sections towards the flow of wastewater.
  4. If, before laying new communications, sewer pipes in an apartment or house were dismantled, use plastic parts of the same diameter as the old ones.
  5. For horizontal wiring, it is allowed to use a diameter of 100 mm, as in the case of a toilet riser; for other single fastenings, 50 mm is sufficient.
  6. The slope of the system should be 4-7 cm per 1 m.
  7. To prevent the sewer from sagging, attach sections to the walls every 100 cm.
  8. Be sure to include in the drawing fan ventilation. This will help regulate the pressure in the drain compartments and get rid of unpleasant odors.

Preventing blockages in PVC pipes

Despite the fact that in case of damage, remove PVC pipes easier than dismantling cast iron sewer pipes; this is a troublesome undertaking and costs money. To avoid having to tear down or replace installed communications in the event of a blockage, provide “cleanouts” with plugs. Another preventive measure is additional vertical outlets for air check valves(a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient).

To clear possible blockages, leave the inspection with a plug - this will simplify access to the clogged area

Inspections with removable covers when installing pipes for external sewerage are installed every 15 m. For internal systems - at the junction of horizontal sections with a riser. This step will make it easier to clear the drain if it becomes clogged.

How to test your sewer

Upon completion of work, conduct leak tests of the sewer system.

Verification options:

  • turn on all existing plumbing fixtures at the same time;
  • Fill a bucket of water, pour it in one gulp into the sink, then into the bathtub.

During the inspection, examine all joints and connections. If no problems are found, the test is successful. If there are leaks, seal and re-treat the problem areas with sealants or construction adhesive. After the insulating substances have dried, perform the tests again.

During tests, pay attention to joints and fastenings to fittings

Video: installation of plastic sewer pipes

Reading time: 6 minutes.

Installation of sewerage from plastic pipes is carried out in private and apartment buildings, administrative buildings equipped with running water. Sewage disposal systems are divided into local and centralized. In one room, the wiring consists of blocks, each of which consists of 3 lines - from the toilet, bathtub and kitchen sink. When constructing a highway, parts of various lengths, diameters and configurations are used. Let's consider what nuances should be taken into account when designing and assembling a pipeline with your own hands.

Principles of installation of sewerage from plastic pipes

Selection of materials for sewerage

When planning the laying of new communications for drainage, it is necessary to pay special attention to the choice quality material, accessories and components. It is recommended to purchase goods from a trusted supplier who has a certificate for their products. It is better to buy products produced by one manufacturer. This will avoid difficulties when fitting and connecting parts.

The basis for the calculations is a diagram that displays the following data:

  • riser;
  • inspection hatch;
  • tee;
  • horizontal purlins;
  • corners;
  • water seals (siphons);
  • adapter;
  • bends;
  • water consumers.

It is advisable to purchase material 10-15% more than calculated. In any work, defects and mistakes are possible. Except plastic products, you need to buy silicone-based lubricant. It is best suited for connecting parts of the highway and ensuring its tightness.

Why are plastic pipes better?

When choosing a material for sewer installation, most craftsmen are inclined to use pipes made of polymer plastic. Such a decision is justified by many positive characteristics inherent this product petrochemical industry.

The installation of polyvinyl chloride pipelines has the following advantages:

  1. Affordable price. It is an order of magnitude lower than that of metal structures.
  2. A light weight. Plastic pipelines do not put additional load on walls and floor slabs.
  3. Easy to assemble. There is no need to use expensive equipment to connect parts.
  4. Resistant to corrosion, mildew and mildew.
  5. Long service life. It is at least 50 years old.
  6. Presentable appearance. The products fit well into any interior.
  7. Elasticity. Pipelines do not break under vertical and horizontal loads.

Polymer communications do not require regular maintenance and repair.

Preparatory work

To lay a pipeline for drainage, you will need special equipment for laying a channel of the desired configuration in floors, walls and furniture.

It is necessary to use the following tools and devices:

  • oil or diamond level;
  • a hammer drill with a set of drills, impact bits and a diamond bit;
  • roulette;
  • hammer;
  • chisel
  • marker;
  • Silicone Grease.

Preparation for sewerage installation begins with drawing a horizontal line from the entrance of the tee to the riser to all water consumers. After this, marks are made every 50 cm corresponding to the required slope. To avoid mistakes, during assembly, supports are placed on which the pipes will be laid. Holes are drilled in the walls into which clamps with a diameter corresponding to the pipes are installed. Finally, holes are drilled, the bed is cleared and construction debris is removed.

Features of internal wiring

The peculiarities of the sewerage system are that the basis for the functioning of the home sewerage system is gravity. Waste products move through the channels by gravity under the influence of gravity. In order for waste from the water consumer to enter the riser, all lines must have a slope of 1-1.5%. So, with a line length of 200 cm, the height difference between the outlet and the outlet of the pipe into the general drain should be 2-3 cm. For each turn, another 1 cm is added. If these rules are not followed, the line will constantly become clogged with waste.

The next nuance is the selection correct size sections and configurations of the highway.

You should choose plastic sewer pipes of the following diameter:

  • riser, tee, outlet and corrugation from the toilet - at least 100 mm;
  • line from the bathtub, washbasin and kitchen sink - 50 mm;
  • drain from washing machine and dishwasher- 32 mm.

Since the largest waste products come from the toilet, the distance from it to the riser should be minimal. If you need to change their direction to lay pipes, it is better to do this using 45° bends, since sharp turns can become clogged.

Adjusting workpieces to size

A feature of products made of polymer material is their change in size under the influence of temperature. So, when it increases by 1°, the length of the link increases by 0.5%. This must be taken into account when making calculations so as not to install turns close to the walls. You should always leave 1-2 cm of margin for damper expansion of the links. Slight curvature does not affect the strength and tightness.

When cutting blanks, it is necessary to check that the diameter of the pipe corresponds to this indicator of the fittings used when laying communications. Technical indicators are printed on the products themselves, but it is better to check them in advance, even before assembly begins. It should be remembered that joint tightness and tightness are achieved through the use of gaskets. Difference between internal and external diameters of connected links is 2 mm. A slight backlash allows you to compensate for minor errors made during design, marking and assembly.

Joint in socket

Let's look at the features of connecting plastic pipes. They are made using sockets, inside of which rubber gaskets, rings and cuffs are installed. Double gaskets with a plastic ring are considered the best in terms of durability. They are difficult to assemble, but the effort made pays off in the reliability and durability of the joint. Before connecting the parts, you need to make sure that the elastic is of the correct shape, tightly located in the groove of the socket and is not skewed. If the product is defective or damaged during assembly, it should be replaced with a serviceable part.

The attachment points are the weakest points of the pipeline. Over time, the cushioning material dries out and decreases in volume. To slow down this process, it is necessary to use high-quality lubricant with a preservative effect. Soap and car oils are not suitable for this. These substances cause rubber corrosion. Professionals recommend using silicone grease.

The edges of the sawn pipe must be cleaned to obtain a chamfer. After the segment is inserted into the socket, it must be pushed forward as far as it will go and pushed back 10-15 mm.

How to do the installation?

In a private house, you can make several risers, connecting them into one line or leading them to different septic tanks via separate lines. The main condition is compliance with environmental safety rules.

When installing sewer pipes with your own hands, it is recommended to follow these rules:

  • use a hacksaw for cutting workpieces;
  • insert the pipes into the sockets without distortions, perpendicular to their cuts;
  • assemble the drainage system in the direction from the tee to the sources of water consumption;
  • control the level of each stage of assembly;
  • do not fill the highway with concrete, it is better to cover it with plastic, which is easy to remove;
  • do not forget to lubricate the joints and leave a damper gap.

If the rules for calculations, marking and assembly are followed, the sewer system will last no less than the building itself.

Connection washing machine sewerage, in our time, is a fairly simple and inexpensive matter. Any DIYer can handle connecting the machine to the water seal under the sink, but it happens that the drain needs to be connected to the riser.
The easiest way to do this is on the top floor apartment building, since in this case, there is no need to negotiate with the residents of the house. Otherwise, you will have to go around to all the residents living above and ask them not to use the sewer during the work.
Let's look at the drain insert in more detail using an example.
As a rule, the riser has a diameter of 110 mm. In the example below, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, it consists of two parts and is located on the top floor. Therefore, when you make your insert, you should take into account the design features of your particular riser. This applies to the diameter and possibly additional parts not described in the example.


For insertion you will need the following tools and parts: a hacksaw, a stationery knife, a tee with a branch diameter of 50 mm and an angle of 45 degrees, expansion pipe and cuff for insertion drain hose washing machine.


First, preparatory work is carried out. The rubber rubber is removed from the branch of the tee. sealing ring and a cuff is inserted instead.


Next, the tee and expansion pipe are assembled together.


The assembled parts are applied to the insertion site so that the lower edge of the tee lies at the level of the beginning of the pipe expansion. The length of the cut section is marked on the riser. On the compensation pipe, in in this case, there are marks by which you can easily measure the cut section of the riser (along the top mark on the compensation pipe).


After preparatory work, you need to agree with the residents living above you so that they do not use the sewer system during the work.
The actual work on inserting the drain should be carried out as quickly as possible, because you are not insured against the fact that one of the residents living above will forget about the agreement with you and drain the water into the sewer.
Next, cut off the marked section of the riser.


Remove the shavings and use a utility knife to chamfer the outside pipes.


Insert the tee into the downpipe of the riser. Insert into the tee top part boner Install the expansion pipe by bringing all the pipes together. The pipes must be inserted into each other all the way down, so that over time they do not move down under own weight or as a result of mechanical stress.
TIP: Wet the ends of the pipes with water - this will make it easier to assemble the pipes together.

The cottage has been built or renovated, all that remains is to build a wastewater drainage system and a water supply system. Call a plumbing expert; not everyone can be trusted. Do the installation of sewerage from plastic pipes and water supply yourself, enjoy the work done, and save money.

Carrying out plumbing work on your own without experience is scary. You need to know the rules and tricks to build a working structure. It will be useful for home craftsmen to learn about the stages of work and where to pay attention.

We begin the installation of sewerage from plastic pipes

Ready sewer from plastic pipes

Choice polymer materials justified. They have a number of advantages:

  • do not rust, are resistant to chemical influences;
  • have a smooth inner surface, which improves drainage;
  • lungs;
  • it is convenient to work with them using the tools available to every master;
  • affordable price.

Internal sewer drains everything wastewater outside the boundaries of the house or apartment, and the external one sends them to the collection or cleaning site. The industry produces several types of plastic sewer pipes:

  • internal sewerage– polypropylene;
  • outer – unplasticized PVC;
  • risers, external sewerage - polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

In addition to knowing the nuances of installing a sewer system, it is necessary to follow the recommendations prescribed by SNiP 2.04.01-85, this will allow you to avoid serious mistakes.

The assembled structure must be checked at maximum load, and the joints must be inspected at the same time.

Seven times measure cut once!

Installation of sewerage in an apartment or private house begins with internal system. The operating procedure is the same:

  • multi-storey building: a diagram similar to the old one is drawn up, if no redevelopment was planned;
  • cottage: it is determined where the plumbing will be located, a plan is drawn up. The fan outlet must be taken into account; it reduces pressure and removes unpleasant odors. Several risers are combined horizontally together with a fan outlet;

A new sewer line has been completed. The lengths and diameters of the required pipes are calculated. Number of connecting, transition, fastening elements, cuffs. Each device needs a siphon that will not allow penetration into the room. unpleasant smell. To prevent fecal water from penetrating into sewer system, the toilet is installed first to the riser. Be sure to install an inspection hatch for cleaning or checking. Consult specialists regarding the scheme.

Plan the length of the sewer pipes so that there is less cutting involved. It is best to go to where the purchase of components will take place and find out the nomenclature.

The materials have been purchased, it’s time to install the sewer system yourself

An example of a properly constructed sewer system in an apartment

The sewage system is gravity flow. From the furthest point of the drain, a line is laid to the riser, and associated drains will be connected to it. Subtleties:

  1. The basic rule for laying sewer pipes is the slope, usually 1 cm per 1 m; the exact calculation depends on the diameter. The highest point is at the farthest source. Markings are made and fasteners are installed. If the angle is made larger, the water will fly by very quickly and the dirt will remain; if the angle is smaller, the dirt will have time to settle on the walls of the pipe. The result is the same - a blockage.
  2. Select the correct diameters for each sewer element: toilet - 110 mm, bathtubs, sinks - 50 mm, the rest - 32 mm. It seemed best to use the same sections, but if you take less than needed, it will be overpressure, more - lack of water - blockage.
  3. The direction of the sewer line is changed using 45o fittings. To make a right angle turn, use 2 fittings.
  4. It is easy to connect factory sewer pipes with each other - they are prepared. If you cut them (by any convenient tool), then the ends are cleaned with a knife, polished, and connected with a socket directed towards the drain.
  5. All rubber gaskets must be soft, of correct shape, without flaws; those that do not meet these requirements must be replaced. If the elements are difficult to assemble, a special lubricant containing silicone is used. If this condition is neglected, a leak may occur, which will have to be sealed from above with sealant.
  6. Fasteners are placed 1 fastener per 1 m of highway, at the joints.

In a private house, a connection to an external sewer is required. In a multi-story building, all that remains is to connect the assembled structure to the riser.

Conclusion plastic sewer from the cottage are protected with a galvanized sleeve, protecting from external damage.

For external sewerage, a cross-section of 110 mm is used. Corrugation has great strength. In the ground, the highway should be below the soil freezing level - this is 1.5 - 2 m. It is sprinkled with a cushion of a mixture of sand and clay, reducing damage. If it is impossible to lay it so deep, it is insulated mineral wool.

Rules for installing plastic pipes for water supply

Water supply made of plastic pipes

After connecting the sewerage system, water supply is supplied.

A diagram of the connection of all elements is drawn. For hot water supply, a technological gap of 10 mm is left, since the plastic expands when heated. After, it is counted total length lines, necessary fittings. Number of locking and fastening elements. For subsequent addition of new devices, it is recommended to leave several taps with plugs.

When planning a water supply, it is important to know that plastic pipes are made gray. Their markings:

  • PN10 – cold water;
  • PN16 – hot and cold;
  • PN20 – hot water with heating;
  • PN25 – heating.

Where the water temperature is below 60°, the first two points are suitable. If the temperature is higher, then use the third and fourth options, since they are reinforced.

To save time and ensure control over the condition of the water supply system, it is better to use an open connection scheme. Pipes are installed at floor level, in the corners of the rooms. The standard option, it is the simplest, is a sequential supply of water to all consumers. To carry out repairs without turning off everyone, install before each shut-off valve.


Step-by-step instruction soldering plastic pipes

The parts were purchased, the tools were prepared, the question of how to install the water supply system began to be resolved. According to the diagram, sections of pipe are cut with special scissors. They are connected using fittings or. The technology is simple:

  • the ends are cleaned and degreased;
  • nozzles are selected required diameter for a soldering iron, it is heated;
  • insert the elements to be connected, wait a certain time (determined by the cross-section of the products);
  • After welding, fix the parts until they cool completely.

The structural elements are secured to the wall with clips. Risers - using a clamp and a rubber gasket.

Additional items, like valves, meters have a threaded metal connection, it is sealed onto tow. Professional plumbers prefer to use fluoroplastic sealant.

With a little experimentation, any home craftsman can connect a water supply system with his own hands, which will function like a clock.

Installation features


The structure of plastic water pipes

This is a relatively new device. Combines the properties of metallic and polymer pipes. Reminds me layered cake: polyethylene, glue, aluminum, glue, polyethylene. Performance characteristics excellent: at a pressure of 9.8 atmospheres they can withstand temperatures of 95o. With short-term overheating up to 130o. They are frost-resistant, easily retain their given shape, and can be bent even by hand.

They are used in systems for transporting liquids and gases, heating and air conditioning systems, and for heated floors. The connection diagram is similar to polypropylene pipes. But since they are more susceptible mechanical damage, exposure to UV rays, installation is carried out inside special boxes, walls, floors.

Special fittings are produced for connection:

  • detachable;
  • compression (clip);
  • press fittings (for press pliers).

No installation required expensive equipment, special education. When assembling a water supply system with your own hands, know: the last connection is permanent, it can be “packed” inside the floor or wall. The first two are in special boxes for access in case of emergency emergency situation.

Installation of plastic pipes for heating


Visual diagram installation with description

The main problem that a home technician solves during installation new system heating: connection to metal pipes and plastic ones. Industry responds:

  • threaded connection fittings are available with cross-section up to 40 mm;
  • from 40 to 300 mm – flanged.

Operation instructions are similar to connection polypropylene pipes.

Replacing cast iron sewer pipes with plastic ones

In older houses, they were used in the bathroom and toilet. cast iron pipes. I would like to replace them with a modern analogue. It can be done easily, the main thing is to come to an agreement with the neighbors on the riser so that there are no incidents. Let's get started:

  1. They cut out the old riser: leave 10 cm at the top, 40 cm at the bottom. To make it easier, make several cuts with a small jumper, then knock them out with a sledgehammer. The main thing is not to damage the rest.
  2. The joints with plastic are cleaned.
  3. Fastenings for the new riser are being prepared.
  4. The plastic is installed with the sockets facing up; work must begin from the bottom.
  5. After preliminary fitting, the plastic is installed and secured with clamps with rubber gaskets.

Now you know how to do wiring, installation of sewerage, heating, and water supply systems modern materials. And also that home handyman everything is within my reach.

Video on replacing cast iron sewers with plastic ones