Homemade tools and accessories with your own hands: detailed instructions with step-by-step photos. Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop: we make it ourselves Do-it-yourself plumbing tools

Any owner of a workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. But nowadays you can’t “get far” with a hand tool. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, auxiliary equipment. There are no problems with the offer - the main difficulty is that quality products costs a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, they use quite available materials, often just collecting dust in the barn. And running power tools, usually found in any workshop, are widely used as drives.

This publication will discuss only some homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. It’s time to give this topic a separate site altogether. So this will mostly be a general overview. But we will consider the manufacture of two models, which are probably very important for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, step by step, with all the nuances, from the first outlines to testing.

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting “out of the picture” (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for tools, accessories, consumables and other small items necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and extensively tested general concept for such a workplace. It probably makes sense to stick to it when making your own workbench.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (item 1), which at the bottom, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by support bridges (item 2). There is a cover on top - a workbench board (item 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (item 4) so ​​that during work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall on the floor.

Usually with right side there is a side or rear clamp (pos. 5). In essence, this is a screw vice, which has a wedge that extends upward (item 6). Along the line of this wedge along the bench board there is a row of slots (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows for rigid fixation for processing. wooden blank between the wedges of the table and the side vise.

To secure a long part that cannot be secured between the outer wedges, use the front clamp (item 8). This is also a screw vice that is capable of clamping the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves extend from the end of the workbench (item 9).

The lower area of ​​the workbench is called the underbench (item 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbars (legs) that connect the legs of the layout in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These crossbars often contain shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who can read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with - general wiring diagram carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

For the manufacture of underbench (base) parts, it is usually used quality wood coniferous species with a residual moisture content of no more than 12%.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made from hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. Making such a massive dimensional panel yourself is an extremely difficult task, so often a ready-made laminated board is ordered or purchased from a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem like an overly expensive solution, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it's better to buy ready product, and then modify it into a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As this coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particularly difficult is usually the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. To get really efficient and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice itself ready-made, assembled form. There are many models suitable for this purpose on sale.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing as a guide:

Vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench lid.

Of course, an example is shown here, and it may suit many in “ pure form", that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing, taking the demonstrated diagrams as a sample for assembling certain components. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers you to make your own improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in metalworking operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry “classics”, there is an innumerable amount possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for production. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of comfortable work in the workshop is always an optimized arrangement and storage system for tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It’s convenient when you know where everything is and when necessary tool- always at hand. So it’s worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, and intelligently organized storage areas for consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow for “clearance”. There is a special publication dedicated to questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of homemade machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to talk about them all. Therefore, in this section of the article the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, the manufacture of two models of machines will be considered in detail, step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

On the farm, there is often a need to turn one or another wooden part. round section. If you don’t do this professionally, then buy a real one. lathe- completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But it never hurts to have a miniature machine at your disposal that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed. Moreover, its manufacture is not such a difficult matter.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And anyone can make such a machine, guided by this video tip.

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable quantity wooden parts same size, then you can’t think of anything better than a stationary circular saw. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, due to its uselessness, does not take up practically any space at all.

All you need is a sheet of plywood, a few blocks and screws. And the main element of the design is a hand-held vertical saw

In the shown scene, the master removes part of the protective guard of a manual circular saw. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if you plan to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

When cutting workpieces or wood or metal, including profiles or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, accuracy is not only linear dimensions, but also in the size of the cutting angle. Typical example- when it is necessary to accurately cut blanks for any frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

This operation allows you to perform pendulum saw. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case there is solid foundation(bed, frame), ensuring the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately align the workpiece. There must be a slot (item 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw is lowered.

The support (item 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the frame. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging platform-rocker arm (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is located on this platform, transmitting rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (item 9) or handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disk down onto the workpiece mounted on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if you make a special milling table for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

In the workshop, in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Walking disc knife sharpeners provide a very short-term effect of sharpening the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the rules it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually using whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for various types cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to qualitatively sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying force with the translational direction of a flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-set angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices available for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will be quite inexpensive. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and components will be attached in one way or another to the base - the bed (frame). A profile pipe with a square section of 20×20 mm is well suited for its manufacture...
	...with a wall thickness of 2 mm. As will be clear later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the availability of certain materials.
	From profile pipe A grinder is used to cut blanks for the frame: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
	In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it using a cutting machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, the small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will fit between the large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
	This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
	The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer for the weld seam can be cleaned.
	Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded along short vertical joints with a continuous seam. The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
	Welded frame corner after cleaning. You can, of course, immediately boil it on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs and stands. The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine simply with the frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it’s more interesting.
	This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
	Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be placed before they are welded.
	The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the frame.
	Now on one side of the frame (on its small side) you need to weld nuts into which the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3÷4 mm)…
	- and then the upper wall of the frame is drilled with a drill of 10 mm diameter.
	What is important here is stability, the stability of the assembly’s fastening, that is, you can’t get away with just a few turns of thread. Therefore, extended M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to first machine their lower edge under the cylinder so that it fits tightly into the drilled holes.
	In fact, only one such socket is required to install the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to move the stand to a different position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
	After this, all the nuts are scalded. When tacking, you must ensure that the nuts do not move and are level. To do this, they can be held with a temporarily screwed-in long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame. In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashes of metal.
	Here's what happened: on the top side of the frame there are two welded nuts for the struts...
	...from the bottom there are four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable supports. By the way, if the craftsman has at his disposal threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the stand), then you can get by with them, that is, avoid the operation of welding the nuts.
	The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out from a corner with a 63 mm shelf. The length of the part is the width of the frame, that is, 130 mm.
	First, the required piece of corner is cut off. Then it is clamped in a vice to cut one shelf evenly with a grinder.
	This is how this platform will be welded to the frame.
	After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
	Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed to this area with a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 threads. It is advisable to space them wider so that you can, for example, clamp planer knives and other similar cutting parts between them. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
	Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
	After this, the thread is cut with a tap.
	The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate. For it, it is better to take thick, 3÷4 mm, stainless steel. It is less susceptible to deformation than conventional carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions support platform.
	The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground beveled to prevent it from being touched by the abrasive during sharpening. Next, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support pad. These screw holes can be modified to be countersunk.
	The bed is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint dries, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
	A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the stand and working rod of the machine. First you need to thoroughly clean it - polish it sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in your hand. Let's be honest - it's not a completely safe way.
	Rod after polishing. It is divided into two sections - one 450÷500 mm long, the second 250÷300 mm.
	An M8 thread is cut from one end of each rod. On a short rod there is a threaded section approximately 20 mm long - this is for screwing into the welded nut of the frame.
	On a long rod there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for screwing the handle.
	The next step is to make clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from extended M10 nuts. First you need to mark the center with a core through hole, with an indentation of 12 mm from the edge.
	Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the nut axis, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
	You need to cut a quarter off the other edge of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps. First, a transverse cut is made to the center...
	...and then - longitudinal. You need to prepare two of these nuts.
	Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready. This is what they will look like.
	After this, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening stone is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is fixed with clamping bolts. That's it, the rod is assembled, you can move on to the next unit of the machine.
	There should be a unit on the rack that provides an upper point of support for the rod. In this case, the translational movement of the rod back and forth, and a degree of freedom left and right, must be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely set the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. This unit will again be manufactured on the basis of an extended M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - exactly the same as on the nuts that were used for the clamps.
	Then comes a rather complicated operation. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut an M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will act as a hinge.
	This is what the unit looks like assembled. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with the help of which the unit will be fixed to the vertical stand.
	It must be said that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod produces quite a significant amount of play, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fish-eye joint - such parts are available in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is probably quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt and then cutting the thread - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to get by with a short hairpin. But for now we are considering it as the master suggested.
	All parts are ready - you can proceed to assembling the machine.
	Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the frame. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands stable - on all four points.
	The vertical stand is screwed in.
	A hinge assembly is put on the stand and fixed at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
	A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached that will secure the cutting tool in this clamp.
	All that remains is to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
	The master decided to immediately try it at work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “dead” cutting edge.
	The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
	The working rod is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large block. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
	Then the block can be replaced with another one, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
	The result of the work is first visual...
	...and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper can be easily cut into strips.
	By changing the height of the hinge unit, you can sharpen the plane iron in the same way...
	...or even an ax blade. If it is temporarily not needed, the machine itself can be easily disassembled by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

• Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It’s not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, like the one shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central mark of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They do it differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks have been made in advance, for example, “ kitchen knife", "table knife", "chisel", " ", etc. That is, it will be enough to select the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the applied mark.

Another option is marks on the vertical post. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the easiest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, having signed them, for which cutting tool this angle is intended.

In a word, by showing intelligence it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine into the desired working position.

• You can also make a note about fastening the bars. If they are supposed to be changed during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates of the same size prepared. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. Two sides are already two different levels graininess. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to polishing it.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a section of a profile square pipe 20x20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. As you work, just turn it over to the right side...

• One more nuance: it doesn’t hurt to ensure your safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during a forward movement, your hand falls off - and carefully with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A home-made tool sharpening machine will certainly be very useful in any household.

* * * * * * *

We can say that in this article we have only scratched the surface of the topic of homemade machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever tool they would like to see in detail - we will try to satisfy their requests. And it’s even better if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are required to be paid.

In this article we will talk about the manufacturing technology of those tools that are absolutely necessary to have in the house. They are used not only during various plumbing or carpentry work, but also for domestic purposes.

Industrial vices – quite simple design from an engineering point of view, the manufacturing technology is also not classified as complex. But companies sell them at a fairly high price, the only real explanation for this situation is the desire to make maximum profits.

We'll tell you how to make it at home functional tool with minimal loss of time.

As for materials, the vast majority can be found at scrap metal collection points. Accordingly, their cost approaches zero.

Step 1. Clamp a piece of thick-walled pipe (thickness is not less thanits 4mm, diameter 150mm andlength 100mm) and a grinder with a discabout metal, cut it into two clear halves.

A little lower in this article we will tell you how to make a simple device for finding the center of round workpieces.This is very important point for the vices we manufacture, if this is not done, additional loads will occur during use.They reduce the compression force and increase risks of mechanical breakdowns vice

Step 2. Prepare reinforced curtains. In time squeezing the lips on them there are significant efforts, in stores T There are no such durable models. Veils are manufactured in several stages.

1. Cut off the metal tube her the length should be equal to the length of the cut large one. Tube diameter not less than 10 mm, wall thickness≥ 1mm.

   

2. Divide the tube into 5– 6 parts, each about a centimeter long, the specific quantity depends from the total width of the vice.Cut carefully, all planes must be made only at an angle of 90°, otherwise the hinges will not work correctly and the jaws will jam when opening/closing.Place the curtains on the metal axlerelevant sizes.

   

3. Weld them to the pipe. For this then clamp the workpiece in a vice andaccurately align the positions of the halves.

   

   At first weights need to be fixed on each side ovate through one, the seams must be very strong, control the quality, eliminate gaps.

   

   Sutures should be placed on both sides , after boiling the first, remove the workpiece, open it and secure the bushings on the back side.

   

   

4. Clean workpieces from rust and prepare them for painting.

Step 3. Make sponges. To do this, from a piece of sheet steel should cut out the elements to the appropriate sizes.

Steel thickness is not mless than 10 mm – spongesthey must have enough private strength. To reduce the coefficientslip point buse a grinder to cut strips on them s in the form of a grid.

Step 4. Make two hinges for lips vice. What are they needed for? The fact is that in industrial with kah lips ki move in a straight line , their planes are always about with t are parallel, and in our case when tightenedwhen one of them moves with me in an arc, depending on the race until completely closed, the angle of inclination between them is mgetting married. To lips ki always at the moment of clamping relied in parallel, one of them was wife have the opportunity n Ability to adjust along the axis(swim) . The hinges are manufactured following blowing way.

1. Select a strip of sheet th steel thickness ≈1 mm, length ≈ 50mm, width ≈ 20 mm.
2. Installed in the center wite metal at x axis Ø 5mm, the same rods must be placed on both and m st oronam.
3. Insert into a vice and squeeze it until it stops. Behind With Even after such inserts the sheet will bend.
4. Cut the strip in half and cut off two hinges.

Step 5. Attach the hinges to one of the jaws. To do this, first weld on both sides axis along the perimeter of the circle, clean the seams. Zat We need to install the axles on the GU bku vice and smooth weld the platforms to it. Again, remove metal stains, cut off excess pieces rods Collect together all the details and check their performance.

At this point, the preparation of the movable jaws is completed; we need to proceed to the clamping mechanism.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

MadeVltionmechanismclamp

This node is much more complex than the one described above. Done adaptation and3 sheets thickness ≈ 5mm, length 170mm, width 130 mm.

Step 1. On the plate, measure two points for drilling holes for the components.

They are located along the axis of symmetry, one at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, the second 25 mm. Take your time, mark with maximum accuracy, every mistake is considered critical th and is not corrected.There will have to be a foundation under mechanism completely redo.

Step 2. Carefully drill holes, drill diameter 4mm.

Between them cut a straight groove.Its width should be slightly larger than the thickness of the plate that subsequently slides in it.

Step 3. Drill two holes in a square, betweenwe also need to cut a groove, dThe length corresponds to the width of the inserted plate.Two such plates are required.

Sawing a through groove

Step 4. Put all the elements together.

Place a square on a flat surface, the base of the clamping device on it and the second square on top. In the slots, place the prepared plate with a hole at the top end. Weldinggrab the parts, then assemble them in the vice in reverse order and firmly weld the protruding plate with the hole to the bottom square.

Turn the structure over again and apply welds on this side. You have a debtwives get a mobile unit:two squares slide along the base plate of the mechanism, and a part with a hole is welded to them.

Using a cylindrical grinder, thoroughly clean the seams and, if necessary, strengthen weak points.

Step 5. Prepare another part, the so-called thrust plate. Length equals base width clamping mechanism, width approximately 3 cm. In the center you need to make a hole for the clamping bolt.Now you should start assembling the elements.

Step 6. Prepare two ears with holes, each 25mm long, hole diameter 8mm.

Install them on the movable plate of the mechanism on both sides and connect with a bolt.Do not tighten the nut too much, elements must be able to swing around an axis.

Step 7. Place the movable jaws close to the parts and weld the knots together.

Keep an eye out so that all axes are parallel or perpendicular depending on the purpose and location of the elements. You should already have an idea of ​​how the vice works; this will help you choose the correct positions for each element.Weld the parts tightly.After cleaning the seams, assemble the vice onto the bolt, again do not tighten too much.

Step 8. Now start making fixed vice assembly. It will require several details:

• two 40x20mm;
• two for the wall 25×20mm;

Metal thickness 2 mm, hole diameter selecteddepending on the size of the bolt, in our case 6 mm.

WITH pick up the elements: first put on the bolt n b those short ear, then two long ones, and then another short one.

Step 9. Place the long ears at the edge of the clamping mechanism, placing them exactly along the axis of symmetry.Weld them firmly.

Step 10. Mark the location where the vice halves are secured to the short lugs. Fix the elements, disassemble the vice, strengthen all welds.

Step 11. Make a support platform for the screw. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a nut of appropriate thickness. It's welded to the movable square with reverse side . Weld seam, like Always , is applied along the entire perimeter of the parts. Check slave performance and smoothness, P When tightening/unscrewing the screw, the movement of the parts should be easy and without any jamming. If there are problems, then we need to find and fix them reason. It can be hangnails, metal leaks, slight nervousness.

The vice is completely ready. Paint their surfaces with a special paint and after it dries, you can use a hand-made tool.

Prices for popular brands of portable welding machines

Portable welding machine

Video - DIY channel vice

Center Determinant

The need to find The concept of round parts appears almost always, when for the manufacture of various crafts round blanks are used. To make a fixture school used wooden triangle and metal protractor.

But this is optional, You can use other blanks, the main thing is that one has a right angle, and the second an even strip.

Step 1. Using a pencil, continue the length of the legs along the hypotenuse.

Use a hacksaw to saw off excess pieces, and clean the cut areas with a file or sandpaper.

Important.Make sure that the internal lines of the legs are perfectly straight, otherwise the center will not be determined correctly.

The part may rest against a protrusion or fall into a recess,in this positionit is impossible to accurately draw the diameters, and the center of the circle automatically shifts to one or another station O Ron. In the manufacture of some devices errors can be critical. It is strongly recommended to check the specified requirements with a new triangle after sawing.

Step 2. Cut a semicircular scale from the protractor to further work you only need a straight strip.

The protractor is made from aluminum alloy 0.3 mm thick, it can be cut without problems with ordinary household scissors.Remove burrs with a file; they are very sharp and can injure your hands when using the device.

Step 3. Install aluminum stripe strictly along the bisector of the triangle.

Bisector – a line dividing an angle exactly in half.We have an angle of 90°, which means that the bisector should be located at an angle of 45°. It's easy to find.Insert the second isosceles right triangle into the workpiece so that its hypotenuse lies on the leg. In equilateral right triangles, the angle between the legs and the hypotenuse is 45°, and this is exactly what we needed to find.

Step 4. Closely attach the prepared aluminum strip to the leg of the inserted triangle, aligning it exactly. It is necessary to achieve such a position that one of its edges passes along the corner of the cut one. Thin pencil draw a line.

Step 5. Mark drilling points holes They are required at least three, two do not guarantee reliable fixation strength, which causes the element to move. As a result - errors in center definitions.

Holes can be drilled with a drill or a screwdriver with a drill bit up to 1mm in diameter. No electric tools- no problem. The aluminum alloy is so soft that holes can be poked with the tip of an ordinary nail. As always , after drilling with a file it is necessary take off sharp hangnails. Same holes need to be done in wooden parts as well devices

Step 6. Use small screws to connect the elements into one design Small screws required (great for desktop computer mounts), too large ones will split the thin strip of the triangle.

Practical advice.During connection, constantly monitor the position of the strip, place the second triangle and navigate along the planes.

First, it is recommended to tighten one screw a little, check the position, then second Roy. A little againcorrect. Everything is normal - you can tighten them all the way and install the third one. Use your fingers to press the aluminum strip very firmly against the wooden slats, when twisted, it can change its position. After fixing, you need to check the bisector again.

Assembling the fixture

Step7 . Using scissors, cut off the part protruding beyond the perimeter of the trianglestripes, hangnails grind it down.

Step 8. Remove sharp ones ends of the screws, work with a file carefully, do not allow the connections to loosen.

Step 9 For improvement appearance paint determinant center. Choose your paint carefully.The fact is that part of the device is wooden, and part is metal; you need to use only wear-resistant universal paint. Before applying it, be sure to degrease it. aluminum part. Wipe its surfaces with purified gasoline, acetone or another chemical solvent. Paint can be applied only after the liquid has completely dried.

This is the manufacturing process finished, ready to use device as intended. How exactly is this done?

1. Paste There is a round piece between the legs of the device. Press it down, it should touch everyone at one point.
2. Turn the device with the reverse side and along the bisector line draw a line.
3. Turn the part a little and repeat follow the above steps. The center of the circle is located at the intersection of the two lines.

We explained the principle manufacturing of fixtures. If you intend to work with large diameter workpieces, t o length t ov should increase.It is not necessary to use factory triangles, you can make them any sizes with my own hands .

On our website you will find a lot of interesting things. For example, detailed manufacturing instructions, as well as answers to current issues: what types of boxes are divided into and what are their advantages? Tips for making a screen for a heating radiator from experienced craftsmen.

Almost every man has a set of tools in his home or garage. Therefore, it is worth keeping them in perfect order. He will tell you how best to do this new review. Surely everyone will be able to find in it examples of organizing storage space that interest him.

1. Plastic cans

Trimmed canisters are perfect for storing nails, screws, bolts and nuts. And in order not to dig around for a long time in search of what you need, it is better to label the containers.

2. Wooden shelf

A narrow wooden shelf with holes is a great place to store screwdrivers.

3. Stand

To prevent pliers from being scattered throughout the garage, make a special one for them. wooden stand.

4. Railing

A thin metal rod is perfect for storage paint brushes in limbo.

5. Individual cells

From leftovers PVC pipes You can make convenient cells for careful storage of small power tools.

6. Wooden shelving

DIY Wooden Storage Rack wrenches will allow you to forget forever about the mess and tedious search for the right tool.

7. Open locker

An open wooden cabinet is perfect would be better suited for storing aerosol paints, which are most often chaotically scattered in the garage.

8. Mobile stand

A small stand on wheels is perfect for storage hand tools. This rack is very compact and will always allow you to have the right tool at hand.

9. Wooden stand

A stylish wooden stand with a shelf, which is suitable for storing many of the most different instruments. Such a product will not only help organize hand tools, but will also become a real decoration for a man’s monastery.

10. Homemade stand

An unnecessary pallet can be turned into a convenient stand for storing garden tools, which often take up a lot of space in the garage.

11. Hanger

Simple wooden block with metal hooks will forever solve the problem of storing power tools.

12. Clothes hangers

Simple manipulations with an ordinary clothes hanger will turn it into convenient organizer for storing electrical tape and adhesive tape.

13. Storage system

Forks, shovels, rakes, etc. garden tools not very stable and also takes up a lot of space in the garage. Reliable wooden hooks on the walls will help you correctly place garden tools along the walls of your garage or shed.

14. Folding table

A homemade wooden folding table and wall rack for storing hand tools is an amazing idea for small garage owners.

15. Glass jars

Ordinary glass jars with metal lids are perfect for storing various small items. For greater convenience and reliability, the lids of the cans should be screwed to the shelves.

16. Vertical storage

The average garage looks quite cluttered. Proper organization of storage systems will help solve this problem. Instead of another closet, equip the walls with various shelves and hooks, which will allow you to neatly place a variety of things, from tools to a huge boat and bicycles.

17. Magnets

Magnetic tape or individual small magnets - great idea for storing bits for screwdrivers, drills and other small metal parts.

Continuing the topic, we’ll tell you about anywhere.

It's nice to see when a person made everything and other household items with his own hands. To simplify the process of cutting metal or sawing elements from wood, they build homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. This solution saves not only time on manufacturing products, but also money on purchasing ready-made ones. Let's look at a few practical and interesting options below.

DIY pipe bending machine

Read in the article

How to use homemade machines and tools for your home workshop

The use of homemade machines and devices for the home workshop is aimed at solving several problems:

• Simplifying the metal processing process. When creating household items, a metal cutter or press is often required.
• Improving wood processing. Even to build a small shed or make a wooden one, others are needed.

Buying a ready-made tool is quite expensive, so the use of homemade machines and devices for the garage is becoming more and more relevant every day. Among the most common options home tool highlight:

• carpentry workbench;
• device for quickly sharpening knives;
• device for sharpening metal drills;
• drilling machines;
• press;
• cutting disc machines.

Here are a few photos of do-it-yourself tools and devices from “homemade” people:

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Practical DIY tool shelves

Before creating devices and with your own hands, determine the storage location of all devices, so that later you do not have to search throughout the workshop or where everything is. It’s not difficult to make a shelf for tools with your own hands; the main thing is to decide on its dimensions and material of manufacture.

The easiest way to make shelves is to assemble them from wood. Don't forget to cover finished design protective varnish or to prevent wood from rotting and swelling.

You can create combined option from a metal support and wooden shelves. Here are detailed instructions for creating such a homemade model:

Image	Sequencing
	Assembling the frame. To do this, prepare two side frames consisting of 4 corners. Connect the elements using . Then, tighten the 2 frames together using 4 corners.
	When the frame is completely assembled, proceed to making the shelves. They can be made from wood or metal, as well as from other available materials dense materials. It is enough to cut the canvases of a suitable size and attach them to a metal base.
	If desired, you can make the rack movable by attaching four small wheels. Or install it firmly in a designated space in the garage.

You can find others interesting projects and drawings for making tool shelves. Watch the video on the topic:

And also do it yourself useful devices for household:

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We make a carpentry workbench with our own hands according to the drawings: video instructions and photo examples

Among the common do-it-yourself devices is a workbench. Durable and dimensional, allowing you to securely fasten the workpiece, useful for high-quality cutting of wood and creating various elements from it.

The device package includes:

1. Working surface. Hard is used for it to increase the service life of the device. The thickness must be at least 6 cm.
2. Supports. Collected from wooden beams or metal plates. The main task is to ensure the stability of the entire mechanism.
3. Vise for securing the product. If the table is long, you can install two vices at once.
4. Tool box. Useful recess or retractable design, providing quick access to necessary small parts.

To assemble a carpentry workbench for your workshop yourself, you should choose a drawing and purchase materials for the work.

DIY carpentry workbench drawings

Before purchasing materials to assemble your own workbench, you should think about a detailed drawing. It should include the dimensions of the machine itself; it is advisable to note the dimensions of the materials used and their quantity.

For example, a finished drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands may look like this:

Whatever model you choose to create, take into account several features of the workbench that ensure ease of cutting wood:

• height and length of the master’s arms: the height and width of the tabletop depend on these parameters;
• which hand is working: place the vice on the right or left;
• what blanks will be made: choosing the shape of the table;
• how much space in the room do you allocate for the workbench?

Taking into account all these parameters, it will be easier for you to decide on the drawings of the carpentry workbench and the dimensions of the machine. Here are some interesting examples:

Instructions for assembling a wooden workbench with your own hands

You can buy a wooden workbench in a store or through online catalogs, but it’s cheaper to make it yourself. Let's take as a basis a simple option with standard sizes table tops: length – 150-200 cm, width 70-120 cm.

The manufacturing work will include several stages:

Image	What need to do
	Make the top cover from thick ones to make a shield with a width of 70 to 200 cm. Fasten the elements with long nails, and you need to drive them in with outside, and carefully bend the inner one. The working surface of the workbench is made only of wood or.
	Sheathe the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm beam. This will make it more convenient to attach the vertical supports. The location of the supports depends on the size of the tabletop. It is better to make them from thick rectangular timber at least 120 by 120 mm.
	The carpentry workbench must be installed correctly. Be sure to secure it firmly. If it will be mounted outdoors under a canopy, dig holes for supports. Indoors, use other fastening methods.

When the structure is assembled, install a vice on it. To fully understand how to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands, watch the video:

Making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

Professional “homemade workers” assemble not only tables for work, but also vices with their own hands according to drawings. Any design of such a clamp will include several elements:

1. Supports, where each one has a sponge for clamping.
2. Moving jaw.
3. Metal guides. The sponge moves over them.
4. Lead screw for moving elements.
5. Collar. Necessary for rotating the screw.

When making a homemade vice with your own hands, you can use various available materials. For example, there is a design option made from a profile pipe. To do this, prepare several pieces of pipe of different sizes, a steel stud with large threads and double nuts.

Instructions for creating a bench vise from a profile pipe:

Image	What need to do
	The largest pipe acts as a body. Supports are soldered to it from below. A 3-4 mm steel flange is put on the back side. A hole is drilled in the center for running nuts, and opposite the front support there is a rear sponge.
	There is a front steel flange on the internal moving part. A stud is mounted in it, with lock nuts attached to it. Thrust washers are placed on both sides of the flange. The last element is a movable tube attached to the front jaw.

And also watch the video “do-it-yourself vice at home”:

DIY metal workbench drawings

A metal workbench does not differ much from a carpenter's workbench. It is based on a rigid metal rather than wooden frame. A vice is attached to it, and the entire workbench is designed to withstand the force of a sledgehammer.

Do-it-yourself metal workbenches can have one, two or three cabinets, and also not have shelves or drawers for small parts. In terms of strength for working in a garage, you can make regular table made of metal up to 5 mm thick and reinforced construction, where sheets from 10 to 30 mm are applicable.

Here are some useful plans for making a metal workbench for your workshop:

How to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands: drawings and photo examples

No home is complete without a knife in the kitchen. Correct without special devices it is quite difficult to do: it is necessary to comply desired angle and achieve perfect blade sharpness.

For each knife, a certain sharpening angle must be observed:

1. A razor and scalpel require an angle of 10-15⁰.
2. Knife for cutting bakery products – 15-20⁰.
3. Classic multifunctional knives – 25-30⁰.
4. For hunting and hiking, take a device with a blade angle from 25 to 30⁰.
5. If you want to cut hard materials, then sharpen at an angle of 30-40⁰.

To ensure the desired angle, it is worth buying or making a sharpening device. For example, you can assemble a sharpener with your own hands.

A comment

Tool selection specialist at VseInstruments.ru

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“If you don’t use sharpening every day, then 1000 rpm is enough for a high-quality result and a long service life of the device.

"

To assemble such a machine, you will need a motor from a washing machine with a power of 200 W. Completely for creating a sharpener from an engine from the Progress of work on creating such simple device will be as follows:

• Sand the wood blocks with sandpaper, removing any burrs. Make markings depending on the desired angle.

• Attach a stone to the drawn line to give the blade a sharp edge. To do this, attach it to the block and mark its width. Then, make cuts on the markings, up to 1.5 cm deep.
• Attach abrasive stones to the resulting recesses so that the grooves coincide. Then, install the sharpening stone by screwing it onto the bolts.

There are many ways to make a homemade knife sharpener. Choose the one that suits you and try to create a convenient and useful tool for home.

How to make a device for sharpening a metal drill with your own hands

They make their own not only a sharpener for blades, but also a machine for sharpening drills for metal. Here are a few drawings useful for work:

Ready-made home machine The simplest and most common version of such equipment for the garage is a converted drill. To work you will need:

• base frame;
• rotation mechanism;
• vertical stand.

For the rack, they usually use either boards. The drill is lightweight, so there is no need to use metal. In this case, the frame must be made massive in order to reduce vibrations during operation of the device.

To correctly connect the bed and vertical stand, as well as assemble all the equipment into one whole machine, pay attention to the video instructions:

DIY drawings with dimensions for a drilling machine

To correctly make any machine or practical device for private use, you should first make a drawing with dimensions. Only then begin preparing materials and assembling the device.

Here are some examples of do-it-yourself drilling machine drawings from a drill:

You can also do homemade vice For drilling machine. Below is a video instruction for assembling such a device:

Article

“You can never have too many tools” - everyone who has been involved in construction or making something has heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to saw something off, weld it, or connect parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about homemade machines and devices, which is called that, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades.”

We have already told you, and... Let's continue the topic we started. Today we will talk about homemade turning, plumbing and even gardening tools and devices for construction.

Grinder cutting machine

Machine tools for the workshop are always in demand, but an angle grinder (angle grinder), popularly known as a “grinder”, is one of the favorites in anyone’s arsenal. home handyman. But the instrument requires a very careful attitude, because any neglect may result in serious injury. Therefore, when cutting large volumes of metal (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a metal cutting machine.

You can buy a stand for an angle grinder online, but to save money, cutting machine you can make it yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “superfluous” “grinder” in the household, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we'll see, it's good for more than just sharpening garden equipment!

Ivici FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

I have an angle grinder weighing 5.5 kg. One day I thought about how to make it easier to use. After all, working with it, moving all the time, is inconvenient - your hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I had.

Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it cuts smoothly and without distortions.

Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the basis of the machine.

A steel strip of 50x5 mm was also required. With its help the angle grinder is secured. A 4x2 cm profile and a three-millimeter piece of steel were also required. A figure eight bolt serves as a turning axis.

In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge. But, due to welding, under the influence of high temperature, all the lubricant in the loop burned out, and a backlash appeared in the assembly.

According to the user, the most difficult thing was to accurately mark and drill three holes with a diameter of 14 mm for attaching angle grinders with bolts to the threaded holes intended for installing the side handle.

To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) metal drill.

I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the backlash, allows you to move the angle grinder a little during the assembly process and accurately install it. After all the parts are ready, the user welded the piece of hardware holding the angle grinder together, assembled the entire structure in rough form, checked all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally welded the entire structure.

Ivici

The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can dispense with the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt more tightly. When cutting the workpiece there are no backlashes or distortions. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Another homemade machine from an angle grinder was suggested by a portal user with the nickname Bistok.

As usual, first we start a small construction project or remodel, then we realize that we need new construction tools and equipment, and then the search begins for the most optimal solution. Well, don't buy it!

Bistok User FORUMHOUSE

I decided to make the stairs out of metal. To avoid defects, backlashes, and discrepancies, maximum precision is required when cutting metal parts. Therefore, I decided, using an angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.

Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it would be a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action, waiting for its finest hour. As a stand for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.

The swivel unit is made from the hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.

As in the above option, the most difficult thing was to “catch” the right angle between cutting disc and a stubborn corner. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this unit.

The end result is clearly demonstrated by the photo below.

To turn on the grinder Bistok made additional wiring - brought it out regular switch and a socket, and from this switch comes an extension plug.
You can buy a homemade machine from a craftsman you know, but it’s much better to upgrade to a creator of devices of this level!

Bistok

I got a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 support points for the angle grinder. The fastening with two bolts was adjusted to the location. I work only in safety glasses. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. I didn’t buy anything extra to make the machine. The cut is exactly 90°.

Budget drilling machines

In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with devices in which regular drill, as a “driller” of FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname g8o8r8.

g8o8r8 FORUMHOUSE Member

While drilling many similar holes in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to a metal support and a pair of clamps to firmly fix the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.

According to the user, drilling 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm takes no more than 30 seconds. Having decided to repeat such a design, you should remember that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the volume of work. g8o8r8 I've already rebuilt my drill twice.

Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small “vertical” machine for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.

g8o8r8

The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing race groove. For amateur use, this machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.

In case of absence welding machine You can assemble the device you need on the farm using bolted connections.

Hand trowel for concrete

No less important than homemade machines for the home workshop are devices for construction and repair. And we can easily make many construction devices with our own hands.

Anyone who has ever encountered concrete works, knows how difficult it is to smooth freshly laid mixture to perfection. If on small areas you can get by with the rule, then when filling the area in front of the house or parking lot, ordinary tool not enough. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to its long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.

The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (also called a “wing”), attached to a long handle. When moving away from you at the ironer, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite to the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel glides along the concrete, rather than collecting it in front of itself. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker is lifted up, and the trowel smoothes the concrete again.

ronik55 FORUMHOUSE Member

I know from personal experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I didn’t want to go and buy it for 10 thousand rubles. As a result, my father made a cheap device for smoothing concrete, practically from garbage - all sorts of unnecessary things.

The following photos clearly demonstrate how this ironer works. We take a metal profile (the dimensions depend on the area being smoothed), weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.

Most main element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, this is a rotating gearbox with a chain.

When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the smoother was raised.

Having carried the iron to the end point, we rotate the handle in the opposite direction. The chain is wound again, and the edge of the smoother is raised, facing the user.

We pull the ironing iron towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.

ronik55

Due to the “pipe-in-pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.

See how to make it yourself (follow the link and you will find a drawing).

Garden sprayer and clamp

It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area against ticks, and the old manual sprayer had given up its life. There was an urgent need to buy a new device or find a replacement for it. While preparing for processing and thinking about what could be done, a user of our portal came across an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around the household.

Next, we proceed as follows - carefully unscrew the fire extinguisher, pour out the remaining powder and rinse the cylinder with water. Instead of a bell, we screw in an adapter into which, depending on the need, you can screw in a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).

Metamorf FORUMHOUSE Member

Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go poison the ticks.

DIY carpentry tools

QWEsad FORUMHOUSE Member

One day I needed to glue together a lot of wooden panels. I didn't have any clamps. Therefore, I decided to quickly assemble a clamp from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with welded nuts in “tens”.

In total, the user made 3 of these wedges; this was enough to glue a wooden board measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam and glue may protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, you need to place a gasket under the plate into which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.