Do you need a drain in the steam room? How to drain water under a bathhouse Drain water under a finished bathhouse

The modern Russian bathhouse is somewhat different from similar buildings erected in the last century. Now almost every steam room uses a full-fledged drainage system that ensures the removal dirty water from the washing room. This has a better effect on the service life of wood and concrete floors, and also reduces the risk of mold and mildew. Making a drain is not as difficult as it might seem.

Drainage system in the washing room

Washing room in a bathhouse with a leaky wooden floor

Traditionally, a Russian bathhouse consists of two rooms - a dressing room and a steam room, combined with a washing room. The layout of modern analogues of Russian baths is represented by such premises as:

• the waiting area;
• washing room;
• steam room

The first room does not require drainage. The technology for drainage in washing and steam baths depends on the type of floor in a particular room.

Typically, the floor in a bathhouse comes in several types:

Except for the pouring floor, inner part The drainage system is represented by a ladder for collecting water and a drain pipe. The outer part of the sewer system, depending on the size of the building, type of soil, and depth of soil freezing, can have a different appearance.

For small bathhouse, used once a week, a simple drainage system with a small drainage hole located under the floor structure or in close proximity to the building is sufficient. For a bathhouse designed for a large family, which can be heated once or twice a week, a more complex sewer system with a drainage well will be required.

Wastewater disposal method

The design of the drainage system for draining waste water from the washing and steam rooms is selected taking into account the type of soil on which the structure is built and the intensity of use of the bathhouse. Each of the designs has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Pit under the bathhouse

Pit under the bathhouse with a stone for draining water

A shallow hole dug under the floor of a washroom. 2/3 of the pit is filled with filtering components - crushed stone, slag, aquifer sand. This natural filter traps large particles, purifying the water, which is then absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

The advantages of this system include:

• does not require the use of a piping system;
• ease of installation, cleaning and maintenance.

The main disadvantage of drainage in the form of a pit is that it can only be used for bathhouses on a columnar foundation located on sandy soil types. With frequent use of the bathhouse, the soil may become oversaturated with moisture - the water will not have time to spread throughout the soil, which will lead to its stagnation inside the pit.

Drain well

Drain well made of reinforced concrete and plastic septic tank

The outer part of the drainage system is made in the form of a pipeline and a sealed tank that is filled waste water, coming from the bathhouse. To construct the reservoir, well rings and a plastic or metal septic tank are used.

As the wastewater fills, the tank is cleaned. To do this, water is pumped out using a sewer truck and taken to treatment facilities, or the septic tank is filled with biological products that filter the water, after which it is special pipe is removed to the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually absorbed.

Among the advantages of a drain well are:

• ease of installation on a site of any size;
• the well does not require periodic cleaning;
• relatively low cost.

For proper functioning of the drainage system, the septic tank must be located below the level of the bathhouse. This will ensure natural and unimpeded flow of waste water. There must be free access to the location of the septic tank, otherwise a sewage disposal truck with a large tank will not be able to drive up to the required distance to pull the water intake hose.

Filtration well

Three-well filtration tank system

It is a well filled with fine-grained crushed stone, finely crushed brick or slag. Waste water removed from the washing room and steam bath enters the well and passes through the filter material.

As a result, a small layer of sludge and a large number of beneficial bacteria are formed that purify the water. After gradual purification, the water leaves naturally or is used for household needs for watering and irrigating the soil.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the filter layer quickly becomes dirty with frequent use of the bath and requires replacement. This is a very labor-intensive process, since crushed stone or slag will have to be removed manually. Despite this, this technology is optimal for draining baths designed for a family of 4–6 people.

Soil filtration

Soil filtration using the example of a closed boiler and distribution pipes

A drainage system consisting of a closed septic tank, where wastewater accumulates, and sewer pipes through which water is drained after it is purified. Pipes are installed according to area small area- this ensures uniform flow and absorption of water.

The advantages of ground filtration include:

• complete autonomy;
• possibility of water intake from several points;
• high degree of purification.

Compared to other methods of draining waste water, ground filtration requires the use of a large area of ​​land where water will be absorbed. It is better to carry out installation work at the stage of construction of the bathhouse, when the area adjacent to it has not yet been developed.

For installation, you will need to dig a fairly large pit for installing a septic tank, which requires the use of large construction equipment and special equipment.

Preparing for drainage installation

The design and installation of the bath drainage system occurs together with the installation of the floor. It is optimal if the work is carried out in the warm season, when the soil is driest. This will allow you to test the functionality of the drain and make adjustments if necessary.

Design of the internal part of the drainage system

Construction of a concrete floor with a drain in a bathhouse

The design of the internal part of the drainage system takes into account the rules that apply to the installation of sewage systems in residential premises. If necessary, a ventilation riser is erected or installed stop valve. For example, installation of a riser is required when organizing drainage from several rooms at once.

The general layout of a concrete floor with a drain consists of the following:

The layout of a wooden floor depends on its design, but in general it has a similar appearance. The drain pipe with a branch pipe is placed in the center of the room at the lowest point of the floor. For natural drainage, the sewer pipe is mounted with a slight slope. When installing drainage in the washing room of a bathhouse and steam room using one pipe, the drainage chute should be located between the rooms under the floor structure.

Design of external drainage area

General diagram of the sewerage system various types in the bath

The calculation and design of the external sewerage section is carried out taking into account the size of the bathhouse, the frequency of its operation, the type of soil and the design of the water intake. As stated above, a filter well is optimal for use for private purposes. The design is designed to purify a large volume of water, sufficient for a family of up to 6 people to visit the bathhouse.

It is optimal if the well design is carried out by professionals. This will allow you to select required size tank for receiving water without overpaying for useless volume.

Drainage systems based on septic tanks are already available ready-made version. Their volume is calculated depending on the number of people simultaneously visiting the bathhouse in a short period of time. For a family of 7 people, a tank with a throughput capacity of 1.5 m 3 /day is sufficient.

Related video: planning sewerage in a bathhouse

Polypropylene pipes for sewerage installations

Modern high-strength plastic pipes are used to install the drainage system in the bathhouse. required diameter. The average service life of the product, subject to installation technology, is 50 years.

Depending on the requirement, pipes made of materials such as:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• PVC - chlorinated polyvinyl chloride;
• PP - polypropylene;
• HDPE - low-density polyethylene.

Pipes made of PVC, PP and HDPE are not afraid of moisture and are not subject to corrosion. Thanks to the intuitive mounting, they are easy to install. Most manufacturers of plastic pipes have a wide range of products, which allows you to select products of the desired length, diameter and shape.

PVC pipes for laying communications in the ground

Application cast iron pipes impractical - they are expensive, difficult to deliver to the work site and difficult to install, although the products are highly durable and reliable.

Asbestos cement pipes are also not the best choice for a drainage device in a bathhouse. In addition to low strength, they have a rough inner surface, which does not have the best effect on the natural flow of water. This is especially noticeable for highways longer than 10 m.

The cross-section of the drain pipe is selected taking into account the water intake points in the bathhouse. For a typical bathhouse with a steam room and a washing room, a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm is sufficient. For small baths with a single drain, it is allowed to use a pipe with a diameter of no more than 7 cm.

Calculation of the required material

Pipe and tee made of polypropylene for laying the drain

The amount of material required to install the drainage system is selected according to a previously drawn up project. For example, to install the internal part of a drain measuring 5x5 m you will need:

• drain with direct outlet 105×105/50 mm;
• PP socket pipe Ø50, length 500 mm;
• straight pipe PP Ø50, length 1000 mm;
• straight pipe PP Ø50, length 2000 mm;
• adapter coupling 50–110 mm;
• PP outlet 45 o.

If necessary, a polypropylene bend at 90 o is used. Connection pipe length drain ladder can vary from 500–1000 mm depending on the floor height. If necessary, the pipe is trimmed. A product 2000 mm long is used as a drain pipe. When laying external communications they use PVC pipes length up to 3000 mm.

Necessary tool for the job

To dig trenches and water inlets you will need a comfortable shovel

For installation work You will need the following tool:

• bayonet and shovel;
• bubble level;
• construction knife;
• grinder with a disc for metal/concrete;
• container for sand/crushed stone.

To excavate soil to a depth of more than 2 m, it is better to use special equipment. This will speed up the work process. If all work is performed manually, then it is necessary to take care of safety precautions.

Digging a well should only be done with the help of a partner, who will ensure that the earth falling from the walls of the well shaft does not overwhelm the worker. All work is performed on a safety rope. The performer must be equipped with thick protective clothing and equipment. personal protection in the form of a helmet, glasses and gloves.

Step-by-step guide to creating a bathhouse drain with your own hands

The laying of the drain pipe and the installation of the drain ladder should be carried out simultaneously with the installation of the floor. If you plan to pour a concrete floor in the bathhouse, then further work laying a drainage system should be carried out only after the initial polymerization of concrete (at least 7 days).

Installation of the internal part of the drainage system

Diagram of the drain pipe supply to various water intake points

To supply the drain pipe, you will need to perform the following work:

1. To lay plastic pipes, you will need to dig a trench 50–60 cm deep. The depth is calculated based on the ground level located outside the building area. With a base height of 30–50 cm, the depth of the trench should be at least 80–110 cm.

   Two trench options for introducing the drain pipe

2. The route of the trench is determined by the project and depends on the location of the drainage ladder. Excavation begins from the most distant point from the point of entry of the drain pipe. For example, in the schematic diagram below, excavation occurs from point A to point B.
3. When digging a trench, a minimum slope is observed: 2 cm per 1 m. After arranging the route, a layer of fine-grained sand 7–10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench and thoroughly compacted. At the same time, the slope continues to be observed.

   The ground slope is maintained along the pipeline route

4. If the bathhouse is built on strip foundation, then in the selected location a hole should be made for the drain pipe to be inserted. For this, a hammer drill and a grinder with a disc for concrete are used.
5. Vertical and horizontal pipe sections are being installed. In places where it is planned to install a ladder, a horizontal pipe up to 2 m long is installed. The connection to the horizontal pipe is made through a 90° elbow.

   After checking the quality of the pipe connection and maintaining the slope, the trench is backfilled

6. If there are several drains located on one horizontal section of the pipeline, then a tee of the required diameter is used for connection. For example, in the diagram above this element is highlighted in bright color.
7. To insulate the drain pipe, a shell based on polyurethane foam is used. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the depth of soil freezing. For central Russia - at least 10 mm with a laying depth of 70–90 cm.

After insulation, the angle of inclination is checked. To do this, 5–10 liters of water are poured into each vertical section of the pipe in turn. If everything is in order and the pipe connections do not leak, then the trench is backfilled with previously removed soil.

Installation of a closed septic tank

Diagram of a water intake in the form of a closed septic tank

Can be used as a closed septic tank finished goods from the manufacturer, as well as structures made by hand from scrap materials. If the amount of wastewater discharged at a time does not exceed 300 liters, and the total weekly volume is 700 liters, then the septic tank can be made from old car tires.

The water absorption area for a septic tank is calculated based on the fact that sandy soil can absorb no more than 100 l/m2 per day, mixed soil - no more than 50 l/m2, and loamy soil - no more than 20 l/m2 per day. Based on this, the height and base area of ​​the tank is calculated.

Preparing a mine for storing old tires

The septic tank installation technology consists of the following steps:

Before walling up, he checks the functionality of the septic tank. To do this, 50–100 liters are drained through the pipes. water. If the water disappears over time, then you can install a ventilation pipe and fill the septic tank.

Installation of a drain well

To construct a drain well, a metal or plastic tank, reinforced concrete well rings, red brick or stone can be used. The material is selected taking into account the depth of the structure. It is optimal if it is possible to install reinforced concrete structures of the required diameter.

Preparation of a well shaft for the installation of reinforced concrete rings

To build a well you will need to do the following:

1. The location of the well is chosen taking into account that access for a truck must be provided to it. It is advisable that the well be located in a low area. This will avoid removing a large amount of soil to create a natural flow of water.
2. A hole measuring 1.5 x 1.5 m is dug using special equipment. If ordering an excavator is problematic, then you will have to dig a well shaft manually. During the work, safety precautions are observed. To simplify the process, you can dig a square-shaped hole.

   A square-shaped well shaft can be lined with old brick

3. A 15 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the shaft and thoroughly compacted. After this, a concrete mixture based on M500 cement is prepared. The bottom of the shaft is being filled. If possible, round-shaped reinforced concrete products can be laid at the bottom of the well. This will allow you not to wait for the concrete to polymerize and continue with the work.
4. The mine walls are being lined with red brick. To reduce costs, you can use old and chipped bricks. A solution of clay and sand is used as a binder mixture. A drain pipe is connected to the well at the top. After lining, the surface of the well is processed bitumen mastic.

   After inserting the drain pipe, the filter well made of reinforced concrete rings is covered with a concrete cover

5. As a cover, you can use ready-made reinforced concrete products for well shafts. At self-production You will need to set up formwork from available materials with an overlap of 30 cm in length and width. In the center of the formwork it is necessary to install sides to create a round hole.
6. The first layer of concrete mixture with a thickness of 5–7 cm is poured. After the first layer has set, a reinforcing mesh of reinforcement rods with a cross section of 6–8 mm is laid on its surface. Then the next layer of similar thickness is poured.

After drying concrete slab the shaft is closed with a metal hatch. Before backfilling, the slab is treated with bitumen mastic and covered with polyethylene 200 microns thick.

Installation of a ground filtration system

To install a drainage system using the ground filtration method, you will need to manufacture or purchase a ready-made septic tank of the required volume. Water distribution throughout the site will occur through a pipeline system based on polypropylene products with a cross-section of 110 mm.

Preparing a pit and installing an oblong-shaped water intake

To make a drainage system with ground filtration you will need:

1. In the immediate vicinity of the drain pipe leaving the bathhouse, an area for installing a septic tank is marked. The size of the area should be 30–50 cm larger than the water intake structure itself. A trench 80–110 cm deep should follow the marked area, maintaining a slope.

   Preparing trenches for laying a pipeline for a soil filtration system

2. A pit is being dug for installation of a septic tank. When installing, be careful not to damage the water inlet. After installing the container in the ground, the drain pipe is installed taking into account the freezing thickness of the soil.
3. To prepare drainage in the PP pipe, you need to drill through holes with a diameter of 110 mm in increments of 10 cm. For this, use electric drill with drills 8, 10 and 12 mm. The pipe is divided into three equal parts. Holes of the same diameter are drilled in each part from smallest to largest.

   Preparing and laying distribution pipes in trenches

4. Trenches are being prepared for laying distribution pipes. The length of the trench is no more than 25 m. The width of the trench is 50–100 cm. The spacing between adjacent pipes is at least 1.5 m. The depth is from 1.5 m.
5. After preparing the trenches, compliance with the slope of 1.5–2 degrees is checked. Next, a layer of sifted sand and gravel, each 10 cm thick, is poured onto the bottom of the trenches. Afterwards, geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone with an overlap on the walls of the trench.

   Backfilling the trench after checking the pipeline for operability

6. Pipe laying is in progress. After laying, the pipe is wrapped in geotextile and covered with a 10 cm layer of gravel. At the end of each pipe, a 90° bend and a pipe 50–70 cm long are mounted. At the end vertical pipe a protective valve with holes is put on and the trenches are backfilled.

During operation, preventive cleaning of the drainage pipe should be carried out. For this purpose, both special plumbing fixtures and pipe cleaning products are used, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

If you use the sauna frequently, you should periodically check that the container is full and empty it as necessary. This is especially true in spring and autumn, when the earth is full of moisture and water is absorbed into the lower layers of the soil with less intensity.

Ground filtration systems should be serviced every 12–15 years. To do this, it is necessary to completely replace the sand and gravel cushion and the bottom layer of earth in each of the trenches.

In the 21st century, we want comfort, so we didn’t even talk about carrying buckets of water into the bathhouse, or making cold, pouring plank floors in the steam room and washing room. So how can you more effectively organize the delivery of water to the bathhouse, and the disposal of wastewater, of course? In this article we will dwell on the organization of steam room ventilation.

Water supply and drainage from the bathhouse.

It so happened that we solved this whole problem in several stages... and years - from 2012 to 2014. Initially it was planned that the bathhouse would have a separate pump (or pumping station) in the well and it would supply water independently from the house. Later, when we were installing the pump and the entire water supply system for the house, I mentioned an additional pump for the bathhouse, to which my plumbers reasonably responded - why? After all, there is a pump in the well and a pressure sensor in the house, plus a system of receivers that maintain pressure. Why create duplicate systems? It’s easier to make a branch into the bathhouse right in the well and then all the issues will be resolved. I really liked the idea and a little later we implemented it (see photo below).

Photo of pipe routing in a well.

Photo of a pressure sensor in the house.

In the bathhouse itself, initially the stove makers (in 2012 - more details about the construction of our beautiful stove are described here...) created a hot water heating circuit, which included a pipe passing through the furnace firebox, a 160-liter tank and some fittings - see photo at the link above . Even then, at my request, an additional hole was made in the tank for emergency drainage of water when the tank was filled.

Photo of the pipes entering the stove and inside the firebox.

Later, in the summer of 2013, when we already had experience organizing a boiler room in the house, I asked the plumbers to “make the water supply system also convenient and beautiful” now in the bathhouse. Vyacheslav, as always, rose to the occasion and I am pleased to present the results of his work.

What the water supply zone looks like now is shown in the photo below. Here, in the inset on the right, the main elements of the system are shown in close-up.

Organization of water supply for the bathhouse - final picture. The inset on the right is a zoomed-in image of the area under the tank.

The structure is assembled on crimped nickel plated steel pipes- This is perhaps the most reliable and beautiful option for fittings today. In the house we used a similar one, but with copper pipes, here the stainless steel tank gave a different color to this entire assembly.

So, there is a pipe coming out of the floor on the right cold water. It fits into the tee into which the heating element is inserted. electrical cable. Now its feasibility is basically lost (only for emergency situations), but a year ago we believed that the floor would be on joists (i.e. there would be a cold underground), and the bathhouse would not be constantly heated.

Among the design features, I would like to note the brass taps - they fit well into the style of the Russian bathhouse. And also thin copper tube removing water from the tank when it overflows. With its help, water will flow into the drain, and not onto your head.

By the way, along the drains (the so-called drain holes in the floor). Initially, in 2013, we planned to make something like a small sink with sides in the tank area, which is why it was placed there additional second ladder. The main ladder was located almost in the center of the washing room. This can be seen in the box on next photo– here we also planned to use wooden logs to organize the floor.

Location of drains in the washing room. Photo taken before dismantling wooden logs. One drain is located under the tank taps, and the second (in the inset in the photo on the left) is in the center of the washing room.

Later, when the tiles were being laid, we decided to abandon this side, since we would constantly trip over it. Now, of course, we would not make this second drain in the washroom.

On the other hand, when Slava and I were designing the sewer system a year ago (2013), I thought that a drain in the steam room was not needed. That's what the stove makers said - because the stove is very powerful and dries everything out (so it turned out). But then, after reading reviews on forums and talking with builders, we decided that “it couldn’t get any worse.” The question just arose: where should the drain be taken from this third drain? Since until the very last moment (already in 2014) the question of what level to make the floor was not resolved (more about this here...) I decided not to bother with drilling a reinforced concrete foundation, but to make a separate “barrel” for the ladder from the steam room , especially since the volume of water here will be minimal.

Concluding the topic of ladders, the following should be noted important point. There are ordinary (i.e. wet) and “dry” ladders. Dry ladders(more correctly: “stairways with a dry seal”) allow you to prevent penetration unpleasant odors from the sewer even if all the water in the drain evaporates.

Externally, both regular and dry drains look the same (see previous photo) - the nuance is hidden in their insert-gate (see next photo). If you are planning heated floors in the washing room, then I definitely advise you to immediately buy dry ladders. For a steam room, the choice of a dry drain is also clear, regardless of floor heating, since the stove will dry the moisture in the drain due to the general high temperature.

Two options for gates in ladders (dry and regular) from two angles. The dry one has two “petals” (flaps) that, under gravity, overlap air flow from the sewer if the water evaporates in the drain.

Keep in mind that the cost of such a ladder is quite high (about 2 thousand rubles), and it will not be possible to purchase only the dry gate itself.

Well, it’s time to move on to the description of the external work carried out outside the walls of the bathhouse. The following photo shows how a full-height trench was dug in 2013 to supply water. Please note that the entrance to the well is organized using a small piece of sewer pipe; this will protect the water supply pipe during ground movements. The wiring inside the well has already been shown in the photo at the beginning of the article.

The process of supplying water from a well (2013).

With the sewer system everything turned out to be more complicated. As noted above, we had to make two tanks for sedimentation and drainage of waste water. One, large tank (160 liters) for the washing room in 2013 and a small one (60 liters) for the steam room in 2014.

Let's note right away - We did not plan to organize a toilet in the bathhouse! That is why we did not use a full-fledged septic tank. When designing the bathhouse, we did not plan a separate room for the toilet, since we did not plan to heat the bathhouse year-round. Now this problem has been solved with the help of a dry closet (see photo below) and a curtain in the vestibule.

In the photo: on the right is a dry toilet, as an alternative to a bathroom in a bathhouse. On the right is the use of specialized moisture-resistant (withstands rain) sockets and a switch to control the water supply from the well. The main pump is connected to the bottom outlet, controlled by a pressure sensor located in the house. A second pump is connected to the middle socket and is controlled using the switch shown (very convenient). Any consumers (trimmer, etc.) can be connected to the upper socket. The block has a small visor, everything has been successfully used for more than 3 years.

We combined the organization of the sewerage system for the bathhouse with the alteration of the sewerage system for the house, completely redoing the dispersion field for the homemade “septic tank.” This important topic requires a separate article, and we plan to prepare it in the future.

Now we will only talk about organizing a sump for a bathhouse. We did not use " folk remedies» like buried car tires, but decided to make everything more serious. As I already understood by this point, the most important thing in such a sump is the correct organization of the filtration system. Here it is necessary to use at least two layers of geotextiles and a large mass of crushed stone. Otherwise, the system will not last long and will become clogged with sand or soil.

The entire operating algorithm is shown in the following photos.

Organization of a settling tank for wastewater from a washing room. A 160-liter barrel, a large amount of crushed stone and two layers of geotextile are the key to success.

So, first a trench was dug for the sewer pipe with a slight constant slope from the bathhouse. The slope should be constant so that water does not stagnate and not too large so as not to “break” the water seal in the ladders. Next, in the designated place, a hole is opened for the barrel, into which water will flow from the sewer pipe. The depth of the hole should take into account the height of the barrel, 40-50 cm of crushed stone layer under the barrel and 20-50 cm of earth above the barrel.

We “lined” the dug hole with geotextiles (sold in construction stores) - see the first photo in the collage above. To secure geotextiles, it is convenient to use “U”-shaped pieces of knitting wire. Geotextiles will prevent sand and earth from penetrating into the crushed stone. Next, pour 40-50 cm of crushed stone onto the bottom. At the same time, prepare the barrel. In it, on the side walls, we drill many holes (with a 15-25 mm drill), plus we cut out the inlet hole for the sewer pipe locally.

We wrap the barrel with geotextile to prevent sand and small stones from getting inside the barrel. We level the barrel and fill the remaining space with crushed stone. We also lay geotextiles on top of the crushed stone. The result is a simple and reliable design. Next, fill the top of the barrel with sand and earth.

In the following frames you can see the individual stages of the above-described process of supplying water and organizing sewerage from the washing room; let us remember that all this was done back in 2013.

As mentioned earlier, in 2014 we finally decided to make a drain and drain the water from the steam room. We did not have practical experience in operating a bathhouse, so we could not be convinced that all the moisture in the steam room would be evaporated by a brick oven.

Having read reviews on the forums that when a large campaign is steamed, water squishes under your feet in the steam room, which is easier to sweep down the ladder than to suffer with a mop and rags. In general, we decided that draining the steam room would not hurt, but how to organize it? It was not easy to introduce it into the sewer pipe system made a year earlier. At a minimum, it was necessary to drill, or the crown of the log house (in best case scenario), or 40 cm of reinforced concrete tape.

I decided to take the “path of least resistance” and “stupidly” organize another settling tank. The organization of this system is described below. A small plastic container (about 60 liters) was purchased - also strong enough so that it does not collapse under soil pressure, even after drilling holes in it.

Since we didn’t specifically buy crushed stone, we decided to go ancient technology Finns, who lined their scattering fields not with rubble, but with small and medium-sized stones. We also had plenty of this “good” on the site, I asked the guys to wash these stones and we lined our barrel with them.

Creation of a small sump with a filtration field for drainage from the steam room. Instead of crushed stone there are small stones, but again we cannot do without geotextiles.

Of course, both the pit itself and the canister were wrapped in geotextile. The only thing we did was move the place where the barrel was buried more than a meter from the foundation so that later, if necessary, we could gain access to it without affecting the blind area around the bathhouse.

On the left is a barrel lined with large stones, and on the right is the outlet of a sewer pipe in the steam room.

Ventilation in the steam room: is it needed at all and what should it be like?

The question of organizing ventilation in a steam room is very “obscure” and I still have not found a clear answer to it. We first learned about this from our tiler Roman, who laid tiles in our house in 2012. He then said that in order to make the lower zone in the sauna warm, the Finns make special ventilation ducts, which take air from the floor in the sauna and discharge it into another room or outside. At the same time, when we “pump steam” into the stove, hot air, due to pressure, displaces cold air from the sauna through this channel.

I read about similar systems later on our forums, but I couldn’t find clear recommendations on how to organize this correctly. Therefore, I decided to rely on my engineering instincts and knowledge of physics.

This is how we received our stainless steel ventilation duct. The long vertical piece of pipe was divided into two parts, and instead of two tips we got three.

The most difficult thing was to find such ventilation ducts. After all, traditional plastic ones cannot be used here - high temperatures, harmful secretions, etc. Craftsmen make such structures themselves, wrapping a frame made of timber with aluminum foil. I didn’t want to “have fun” like that.

I tried to find those in St. Petersburg who sell ready-made metal ventilation ducts, but I couldn’t find any. But somehow it dawned on me, what if I tried to order the production of such a channel. I started looking for companies and found them not far from my work on Vasilyevsky Island.

The guys are engaged in the manufacture of large-section ventilation ducts and any other thin-walled elements, they have state-of-the-art equipment and they “riveted” my order for me in a couple of hours. The most difficult thing was to pay by bank transfer these unfortunate 500 rubles. Well, and despite lengthy discussions and correspondence about which way the ends should be bent, the guys still did it wrong, but then they corrected themselves and in my presence they made the third tip with the required bend.

The structure was made collapsible, so I was quite able to take it away by car.

The ventilation duct is installed on the wall; it removes air from the level of the steam room field and brings it under the roof. The inset on the right shows the final view of the clapboard-clad steam room.

The previous photo shows the channel installed on the wall, and the inset shows what the channel entrance looks like already on the clapboard wall. I can’t yet say fully that it justifies itself - I need to check its operation in the winter, but overall I don’t regret installing it, because... Logically, it should perform its functions. Plus, this allows you to organize ventilation of the steam room. We have already seen that the air in it is always quite fresh without ventilation.

Water supply and sewerage in the bathhouse, ventilation in the steam room - ideas and solutions

A well-planned bathhouse design not only increases service life building, but also protects it from the appearance of mold and pathogenic fungi, and also increases the heat transfer of the heating installation. The main requirement of the bathhouse is to thoroughly drain the wastewater.

A properly designed structure using concrete and boards will eliminate odor and reduce the proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms.

How to make a drain in a bathhouse with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material.

How does the internal sewage system work?

Proper drainage of wastewater in a bathhouse can be done in several ways:

• leaking;
• not leaking.

In the first case, it is collected in a special department, where the waste liquid flows into sewer pipes. In the second option, during the construction process the building is made at a certain angle of inclination with additional gutters to drain dirty water.

A detailed diagram helps to avoid common mistakes during self-construction. It includes:

Preparing a trench for laying pipes. The depth of the grooves should not exceed 0.5 m. During installation, it is necessary to observe correct angle tilt To do this, each subsequent pipe is fixed 3 cm higher than the previous one.

The bottom of the trench is sprinkled with sand. The height of such a substrate should be 16 cm after compact compaction. During the installation process, it is important to maintain the angle of inclination.

Next, all the pipes are connected to each other and laid at the bottom of the pits. If there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then it is necessary to install an additional sewer riser. To do this, it is fixed to the wall surface with a special clamp.

For proper circulation of air masses in the toilet, additional ventilation must be installed. This will reduce the lingering of unpleasant odors indoors.

After this, they move on to laying the flooring. During the sewer installation process, it is necessary to connect additional metal gratings. They will prevent large debris from entering the drain hole.

Special water seals will help eliminate unpleasant odors. They represent rubber pads, which are fixed in the area of ​​the drain hole.

Basic parameters for choosing a sewer system for a bathhouse

How to drain a bath? Before proceeding with the construction of an external sewage system, it is recommended to consider several main factors:

• intensity of use of the bathhouse;
• dimensions of the building;
• variety soil composition on the site where the premises will be located;
• level of soil freezing in winter period time;
• connection to the central sewerage.

These factors are an integral part in the initial stages of bathhouse design. For frequent use of the room, it is necessary to design complex system drainage of sewage water.

For this purpose, ground filtration is additionally carried out. In addition, it is enough to use a waste pit here. The waste will gradually be absorbed into the thickness of the soil cover.

If the area is dominated by sandy soil, then for reliability, drainage rings are used. For clay soil, optimal solution there will be strengthening interior walls. As the pit fills with waste, it must be cleaned with special equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages of sewer drain devices

Today, there are a huge number of devices for arranging drainage sewer for a bath. They have both positive and negative sides. These include:

Drainage well. He is deep hole, the walls of which are filled with filtrate. For this, sand, small crushed stone, and pebbles are used.

The advantages of this method include: low cost of materials, ease of installation. The disadvantages include the labor-intensive process of replacing filtered masses with new ones.

Drain well. This large capacity for collecting sewer liquids in which waste from the bathhouse gradually accumulates. As it is filled, it is cleaned using special equipment or a machine.

The advantages of such a system are: ease of installation and arrangement of the drainage pit, low cost. TO negative qualities may include: frequent cleaning, inconvenient location of the drain well. As a rule, installation should be carried out at the lowest point of the site.

Pit. It is located under floor covering baths Drain waste is collected in this pit and undergoes independent cleaning through a filtrate of fine materials.

TO positive qualities systems include: low cost of materials, easy installation. The disadvantages of such a structure are: low throughput; it can be used on sandy and sandy loam soils.

Ground filtration. This is a system that consists of a septic tank and several pipes. Purified water passes through them. The pipeline is laid at a certain angle, due to which all the liquid will drain on its own and be absorbed by the soil.

The advantages of such a system are considered to be: it can be used for the entire sewer network; with its help, the liquid is thoroughly cleaned of harmful impurities. A photo of a bathhouse drain shows the process of filtering sewage waste.

Photo of a drain in a bathhouse

Removing used water from the bathhouse is a fairly important point that must be taken into account already at the design stage of the building. Timely drainage of water prevents the spread of dampness and mold in the room, thereby seriously extending the service life of the bathhouse and its foundation. How to properly drain water from a bathhouse will be discussed in this article.

Arrangement of a drain pipe

Before draining a bathhouse, it is worth considering all possible drainage schemes, looking at photos and drawings of these systems. The classic design, the effectiveness of which has been proven over the centuries, is a regular drain pipe installed when laying the foundation for a bathhouse. When installing, the pipe is installed with a natural slope relative to the drainage pit, because in this case additional thermal insulation will not be required.

The pit for used water is laid at a distance of 3-5 meters from the bathhouse and strengthened to prevent the edges from crumbling. The best option is ready-made concrete rings or a frame completely filled with concrete. A filter is installed at the bottom of the pit so that the water goes into the ground.

The pipe should not have even the slightest bends - this always leads to clogging of the channel, and it will be much more difficult to clean it. When choosing a material, you should not use untested solutions - standard sewer pipes are used to drain water from the bathhouse.

A simple drainage system in a bathhouse is installed according to the following algorithm:

• First, a hole is prepared, to which a trench is connected, equipped with a slope towards the water collection point;
• A sewer pipe is laid in the trench (it is advisable at this stage to still use thermal insulation materials);
• A concrete floor is created in the washing compartment, the general slope of which is directed towards the drain pipe;
• For normal functioning of the drain, regardless of the time of year, the inlet of the pipe must be covered with a mesh that will collect all contaminants;
• You can lay it on top of a poured cement screed. tiles, selecting it in accordance with design solution;
• It is worth laying special wooden gratings for baths that prevent bare feet from coming into contact with the heated tiles.

Methods for draining water from a bathhouse

The selection of the optimal scheme for removing used water from the bathhouse is always carried out individually, depending on financial capabilities and the planned load on the drainage system.

By and large, water flow in a bathhouse can be divided into two main categories:

• Systems located directly under the foundation of a building;
• Systems for which a separate water tank is installed outside the perimeter of the bathhouse.

The latter option has more advantages, but its cost is high, and it will require a lot of effort. It is worth considering both categories in more detail to understand how appropriate their use will be in a particular situation.

Arrangement of a simple funnel

An ordinary pit with brick-reinforced walls, or a structure made of a metal barrel with a missing bottom, is installed outside. In any case, the bottom of the pit is filled with gravel, and a cover made of a dense metal sheet is placed over it. Also for normal operation pits require a ventilation pipe. Such a drain from a bathhouse into a barrel can function without problems for ten years.

Arrangement of a drainage pit behind the bathhouse

There is a widespread belief that the most effective way is to drain the bath outside. The main argument in favor of this opinion is the fact that the soil dries very slowly even in summer time, and in winter the water completely freezes, as a result of which the floor in the steam room will be cold throughout the entire season.

However, there is also the opposite statement, according to which if you rarely use the bathhouse, you don’t have to worry about such problems. It is also often added to this that you can choose coarse sand in which the water will not stagnate.

Ultimately, the choice will remain individual, but if it comes to creating a pit, then you can use a popular scheme, the implementation of which requires old car wheels necessary for arranging the walls of the pit, and plastic pipes connected to the structure.

To prevent odor from entering the room, you need to create a water seal, which will require the following steps:

1. You need to pick up a plastic bucket with a volume of 5 liters. Placed across the pit metal pipe on the lower part of the wheel located closer to the top of the structure. A bucket is hung from the pipe using a handle made of galvanized tape.
2. The edge of the sewer pipe is covered with corrugation, which runs directly into the bucket. The water seal will operate using the water in the bucket.

Choosing a system for a large number of people

You need to understand that with different numbers of bathhouse visitors, the water drainage system requires different requirements, which determine where the water goes from the bath:

1. For a small number of people using a sauna, a simple drain hole located under the foundation.
2. For large quantities visitors will need a separate pit to which a pipe is connected. Read also: "".

As practice shows, the best option for most cases, there is a septic tank that will perform the functions of collecting and purifying waste water. To learn more about such designs, it is worth reading a couple of articles about what a septic tank is, how to make it and where to use it.

Conclusion

Create good drain for a bathhouse at the dacha it’s simple. The most important thing in this matter is to decide in advance how actively the bathhouse will be used, and build on this indicator when creating a drainage system.

Today, bathhouses are built not only in villages, but also in dachas and cottage communities. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to drain the water from the bathhouse. Since time immemorial, drainage has been carried out directly under the building, where it goes into the ground. But then there was no such density of population and special unsanitary standards, which today it is not only stupid to ignore, but also unsafe.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with waterlogging of your area or disputes with sanitary and epidemiological supervision, we will consider how water will be drained from it at the lowest cost and maximum comfort for others.

Water drainage methods

So how can you organize a device for draining water from a bathhouse?

The following options can be considered the most popular and widely used:

• draining water directly under the bath;
• discharge to the general sewer;
• arrangement on ;
• uniform distribution of water throughout the area using drainage pipes.

Advice. You need to ask yourself how to drain water in a bathhouse even at the planning stage, and if you decide to drain moisture outside the building (into a septic tank, into a sewer), then you need to take this into account when laying the foundation.
Sleeves are placed in the strip base, through which the outlet pipes will pass.

Foundation drain

The method with a drain pit is used if you do not visit the steam room very often and in the amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor of the used water.

For better absorption, the walls are not lined with solid masonry, but in a checkerboard pattern, which will allow moisture to escape not only through the bottom of the pit, but also to the sides. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can freeze and damage the foundation.

Using central sewerage

If there is an opportunity on or near the site to cut a pipe into a centralized sewer system, this option is the most preferable. You only need to connect or connect to the sewer pipe, and the question of how to organize water drainage will never bother you again.

But if there is no sewer pipe near your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, fortunately, it is not difficult to do it yourself, even alone.

Septic tank and filtration

This system for draining water in a bathhouse and cleaning it is deservedly considered the most expensive, but at the same time it allows not only to efficiently organize the drainage of water in a bathhouse, but also to use this water for agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to install septic tanks in which the water is purified and then flows through a pipe into the collector, from where it is used for irrigation. But the disadvantage of such a system is its price, which includes regular replacement of filters and the introduction of microorganisms that take over the purification process.

Drain pit

This is the most used method for draining not only used water, but also sewage from a private home. Making it is not at all difficult and the following instructions will tell you how to do it correctly.

Choosing a location and arrangement of a pit

According to the rules and regulations for the location of the cesspool, it should be no closer than 12 meters from the living space. This rule should be taken as a basis when organizing the removal of moisture from the washing room. When choosing the type of pit, you must consider whether you will clean it regularly or allow for the absorption of moisture into the soil. The second option is preferable due to the fact that it requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation.

However, you must take into account that a hole without a bottom can only be built if there are no surface groundwater and subject to the removal of no more than 1 cubic meter of water per day.

Otherwise, the bottom and walls of the cesspool must be completely isolated from the ground. This is achieved by laying the walls with bricks and concreting the bottom of the pit.

Since the concepts of bathhouse and water drainage are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste receptacle.

The most optimal sizes are:

• length not less than 1.5 m and not more than 3 m;
• width from 2m to 3m;
• depth from 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with sufficient volume of the structure for the trouble-free functioning of your bathhouse, even with frequent visits.

Operating procedure

1. You need to start by digging a pit. This can be done manually, but if it is possible to use an excavator, be sure to use it.

Advice: Excavation the most difficult type of work, and you will soon begin to understand this when you decide to take up a shovel yourself.
With the help of an excavator, for a small fee, within half an hour you will have a pit of the required volume on your site.

1. The walls and bottom of the pit need to be leveled. This can be done manually by trimming bayonet shovel. Such work will not require a lot of effort and time.
2. Fill the bottom of the hole with gravel mixed with sand, this will slightly improve moisture absorption and prevent clay and earth from penetrating into the hole.
3. Now you can start laying out the walls with bricks. The masonry is done in a checkerboard pattern, from the bottom to the very top.

1. The last step is to make a concrete floor with a hole 30-50 cm in diameter for cleaning and the intake hose.
2. Now all you have to do is install sewer pipes through which water will flow out of the bathhouse.

Only clay and well-fired bricks are suitable for lining a pit; it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed briquettes of unknown composition.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will ensure the drainage of water in the bathhouse depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on how often and how many people will use the washroom at the same time. The video in this article will also help you.