Mounting fasteners for plastic windows. What to attach a plastic window to? Foaming gaps and moisture protection device

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There are several ways to install plastic windows. Anchor plates for PVC windows are used quite often; they can be attached in different ways. Each method has certain positive sides, but is not without its drawbacks. We will illustrate them, leaving the reader to choose the most acceptable option for him, since it is impossible to offer a universal solution.

Difficulties associated with installation

Anchoring a frame, although it may seem like a simple task, can actually cause a lot of problems. negative consequences, especially if the installation will be carried out by a non-professional. Before deciding whether you need such a mount, you should carefully study the possible consequences of errors during operation.

In this case, the frame is secured using anchor bolts. In order to make such a mount, you will need to drill the frame. The downside of this action is the depressurization of the glass unit chambers.
Another problem may be freezing of the structure, since drilling disrupts the reinforcement of the system. If the double-glazed window freezes, you will encounter excess moisture in the room, and mold may appear on the slopes over time.
Installation should be carried out by an experienced craftsman, as in case of careless work plastic construction may stretch. If the frame geometry is disrupted, it will be difficult or even impossible to return it to its normal position.

However, despite all the disadvantages, this fastening method has an important advantage: the window will be securely fastened, and it can only be dismantled by thoroughly disassembling it from the inside. Installation takes little time, does not require leveling, as happens with foam, and after installation is completed, the structure is immediately ready for use. The connection is considered to be as reliable and durable as possible. The bolts and plates themselves are inexpensive and are sold in all hardware stores.

Types of window fastening

How to attach to plates?

Anchor plates help make the installation process quick and easy. One of the important advantages is that there is no need to remove the glass unit from the frame. Profile system will not be drilled, which means it will be possible to avoid problems that arise when through drilling frames The double-glazed windows will not depressurize, the structure will not lose rigidity, and will not begin to freeze. There is absolutely no risk of frame distortion. However, the method cannot be called perfect either: one of the important drawbacks is its unattractive appearance, since part of the fastening will be noticeable after installation.

Advice: the anchor plate can be hidden under the slopes if you install them correctly and disguise it with overhead elements.

The second significant drawback is the increased load on the structure when the doors are opened frequently. A window can quickly fail, which is why experts recommend fixing only solid structures in this way.

Other methods of attaching a plastic window

There is a method that combines several methods of fastening the frame, in which case some of the disadvantages of both of the above methods can be avoided. With the combined method, the upper part of the frame is attached to anchor plates for windows, and the lower part is secured with anchors. This allows you to avoid impacts on the frame when opening, and also to adjust its height.

Fastening plates with windows using self-tapping screws

How are windows installed on an anchor plate?

Mounting plates for PVC windows are produced in different ways, so before installation you need to choose the right one. There are only two types of designs: universal, suitable for any window frames, and special, which are made for windows non-standard shape. Such elements have special ears, with which they can be fixed with self-tapping screws, placing them in the groove window profile. The universal plate does not have ears and is secured with bolts.

Advice: for installation you need to choose 4.5x25 mm bolts. Pay attention to the tip, it must have a metal drill, otherwise it will be difficult to drill through the structure.

Anchor mount

Sequence of work when installing a window on anchor plates

If you are using standard windows, you will need about 5 anchor plates. One of them will be located in the center of the frame, the rest are placed at a distance of about 20 cm from the corner. During installation, you will not need to remove double-glazed windows or remove glazing beads: the plates will be attached to the outside of the window opening, in this case the fasteners are made through.

Places for installing anchor plates on the window

Advice: if the design has big size, for example, exceeds 4 square meters. m, then it should not be mounted on plates, since the window will have a large mass. You can use a dowel connection, which can be combined with anchor plates.

The position of the plates on the wall is marked in advance so that the fastening is better; a bed for the plate is knocked out in the wall with a chisel. The fastening element must fit tightly into the recess, without protruding beyond its limits. After installing the structure, it is recommended to fill the gaps with mounting foam: this will help avoid drafts and also secure the window more securely.

Conclusion: mounting plates for PVC windows – a quick and convenient method of fastening, although not without drawbacks. With the right approach, it will become an affordable and quick solution for reliable installation of window structures.

September 20, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Types of products

The concept of window screws covers several product groups, and each of them has its own differences and is used for different purposes. You must figure out what work needs to be done, and only after that can you select the best option for hardware.

Type 1 – hardware screws

This is the most widespread type of product, which has a number of important advantages:

Property	Function
Electroplating
Wide thread pitch	Allows you to simplify screwing fasteners into plastic and speed up the work process. The sharp tip allows you to accurately tighten the screws; they do not slip on the surface like options with a drill
Electroplating	A layer of zinc is applied to the surface, the color of which can be either silver or golden. It provides reliable protection metal from adverse atmospheric influences and can withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees. The surface must be completely covered, no imperfections are allowed.
Special head shape	The head with a diameter of 7 mm has a special configuration, thanks to which the screws are completely recessed into the surface, even if you screw them in at random. This greatly simplifies the workflow and improves the final result.
Versatility of use	Fasteners can be used not only for fixing various accessories to a PVC profile. Thanks to the wide thread, this type of product is very widely used when working with wood, sheet materials and many other soft substrates
Wide range of sizes	While the thickness is standard at 4.1mm, the length may vary. This allows you to choose the best option for a variety of types of work, the following lengths are standard: 19, 22, 25, 30, 35, 38 and 45 mm.

This type of fastener is designed to be screwed exclusively into plastic, and if long elements are used, they must pass through at least two walls of the PVC profile, this is the only way to guarantee maximum reliability of the fastening.

Many manufacturers make special ribs on the underside of the head, thanks to which the fasteners do not rotate and are fixed especially securely, they are clearly visible, and if you come across this option, feel free to purchase it.

Another modern, improved solution - self-tapping screws with double-start threads, turns different heights provide a very reliable connection and simplify screwing in the fasteners.

A hardware screw most often has a PH2 slot - the most common and convenient, but sometimes you can find fasteners for a PZ2 nozzle, so check when purchasing which bit you need to use.

I am often asked the question whether it is possible to screw self-tapping screws into plastic windows and whether this reduces strength and reliability. In fact, if you use high-quality hardware, then no problems will arise; in addition, the fasteners are screwed into the material without preliminary drilling, which is very convenient.

Type 2 – hardware repair screws

This group of products is similar to the previous one, but has a number of differences:

The main purpose of this option is to fasten fittings and other elements in cases where the threads have broken off when screwing in conventional self-tapping screws. This type has an increased diameter, it is 4.8 mm, so the fasteners hold perfectly in the holes from the hardware;
In addition, the increased diameter makes this option much stronger, which allows it to be used not only on windows, but also when working with wood. The sharp tip and wide thread pitch allow this option to be used not only on PVC windows;

The ribs on the bottom of the head allow you to securely fix the fastener and prevent it from turning. The coating can be either silver or gold, there is not much difference;
The head has a diameter of 7 mm, the semicircular upper part ensures high-quality embedding, even if the fasteners are not at a right angle. The work is carried out using the PH2 nozzle.

The range of standard sizes is quite large, but for PVC windows the most popular options are 25 and 38 mm long.

It is very easy to work with this fastener yourself: it is simply screwed into the hole using a regular hardware screw, no additional operations are required. If you screw it into plastic without a hole, then no additional drilling is required. But if you work with a screwdriver and not a screwdriver, then it is still better to first go through a 3.5 mm drill; screwing in a self-tapping screw by hand without preparation is very difficult.

Type 3 – self-tapping screws with a countersunk head and a drill tip

This type of product differs from the two above for a number of factors:

At the end there is a small drill that allows you to screw fasteners even into reinforcing metallic profile PVC windows. And if you need to fasten the structure or fix fittings and other elements at the location of the reinforcing profile, then this type of product will come in handy;

These window profile screws have locking notches on the head and hold well, even if you work with a tool with a rough torque adjustment. They also have a semicircular head, so that even if screwed in unevenly, the fastener is completely recessed into the surface;
The presence of a drill tip and a small thread pitch makes this option unsuitable for wood and other similar materials. Moreover, if there is no reinforcing metal element at the screw-in point in the PVC profile, then it is better to use sharp self-tapping screws - the drill makes big hole and the fasteners may not fix well;

The fastener head has a slot for PH2, and the length varies from 13 to 38 mm with a thickness of 3.9 mm, this is quite enough for any work with PVC windows.

As for working with this type of fastener, everything is quite simple, you need to select the elements of the required length, after which they are screwed in with a screwdriver; it is very difficult to do this work with your hands, because you need to go through metal, the thickness of which can be more than 2 mm.

In general, it is worth noting that this option is almost not in demand in the private sector; fittings, ebbs and other elements can be attached without problems using sharp self-tapping screws.

Type 4 – self-tapping screws with semicircular heads

Self-tapping screws, as this product option is also called, are used in the most different areas construction, and they are used quite often in PVC windows. They have their own characteristics:

Due to its wide range of sizes, it is used for fastening a wide variety of elements, while the thickness can vary from 4.2 to 6.3 mm. As for the length, it also varies - from 13 to 70 mm;

The round head with a flat base allows you to press flat elements very well. At the same time, it is not recessed into the material, so it can be used only where it does not matter and the convex cap will not create any interference;
This option is most often used when attaching mechanical connectors to the impost, that is, it is used when assembling window structures. But you can use it in any situation: short versions are well suited for fastening roller blinds, and long ones allow you to fix roller shutter systems or other large elements;
The surface of the hardware is covered with a layer of zinc; it should be uniform without streaks or yellowing. You need to inspect the coating especially carefully if you use self-tapping screws outside the building;
For work, a standard RN2 bit is used; thanks to the massive head, the fastener almost never breaks.

If you need to tighten fasteners through reinforcing metal elements, then you need to pre-drill holes smaller diameter. If you carry out such work often, then the best solution It may be possible to use fasteners with a drill tip; these can also be found in specialized retail outlets.

Type 5 – self-tapping screws with press washer

This type of product is used so widely that it can be found in almost all facilities. But it is also ideal for PVC windows, therefore, considering all the options, it is impossible not to talk about this group of products, especially since it has a number of undoubted advantages:

Versatility - such screws can be used for a variety of purposes, even if you buy more of them than you need, they will not go to waste and will definitely come in handy when performing any work;
A washer is pressed under the cap, thanks to which the diameter of the pressing part increases to 11 mm, and this allows the fastener to ideally press various sheet materials. Such fasteners are ideal for ebbs, droppers and other elements made of tin;

You can buy both sharp self-tapping screws and an option with a drill tip, which allows you to fasten metal materials up to 2 mm thick without pre-drilling. Of course, products with a sharp end are more versatile, so they are in much greater demand;
The thickness of all products is standard and is 4.2 mm, and as for the length, its range is very wide and ranges from 13 to 75 mm. The hat is made to fit the most common nozzle PH2;
An additional advantage is that the caps of the products have both zinc and colored coating. That is, you can choose specific color and fasten the colored cast or other element so that the fastening points are almost invisible. Of course, the price of such options is slightly higher, but the difference is small;

Working with such elements is quite simple and convenient; naturally, you need to select the required length for certain purposes of use.

Type 6 – screws for window frames

This type of product has many other names: dowel, po screw, turbo screw. The products are very different from all those described above, which is not surprising, because they are intended for a special type of work. Let's look at their main features:

The products are originally intended for fastening window and door frames to walls made of brick and concrete, but, as practice has shown, with their help you can perfectly fix structures in wood. In addition, such screws allow you to quickly and securely connect PVC structures between themselves;

This option is ideal for windows without slopes, because there is nothing to attach the plates to. Also, such elements are excellent as an alternative to window anchors, for which you need to drill a 10 mm hole. Self-tapping screws for concrete are ideal for weak foundations, where when tightening the anchor there is a high probability that it will destroy the material, because when screwing in the fasteners we are considering, the deforming effect on the structure is minimal;
This type of fastener is screwed using a star-shaped nozzle, which is marked TORX T30; sometimes there are options for a cross nozzle PH3;

The thickness of the screws is 7.5 mm, the length varies from 52 to 202 mm, the dimensions follow the same standards as the anchors, so choosing a replacement will not be difficult.

As for the use of these options, there are some peculiarities that must be sorted out. The work instructions look like this:

To begin with, it is worth preparing the installation sites for windows, removing the remains of old structures, cleaning the surface and making room for work;
Next, the drilling locations are marked; this is a very important process, since if you mix something up, you will have to redo the whole job. I would advise placing the frame in the required position and making marks through the holes in it in all the right places, this way the likelihood of miscalculations is eliminated;
For the work, a concrete drill with a diameter of 6 mm is used; the depth of the holes should be determined based on the thickness of the frame and the distance from the structure to the base. In this case, the self-tapping screw must penetrate into the material by at least 50, and preferably 70 mm, and the hole must be deeper than necessary, at least 10 mm, so that the debris that is formed during screwing does not interfere with the work and goes to the end;

Holes should be made in drilling mode, not perforation mode. The fact is that in hammer drill mode the diameter turns out to be larger than necessary, which is undesirable in our case, and there is a possibility that a weak base will crack in in this case ten times higher.

The frame should be set level, and wedges or blocks should be placed under it. It's important that it's positioned the way you want it so you don't have to constantly check its position. It is best to have an assistant hold the structure while you secure it;
Lastly, our screw is carefully screwed into the hole; it is screwed in, not driven in.. Due to the fact that the hole is smaller than the diameter of the fastener, the self-tapping screw cuts threads on its walls and the result is a very strong and reliable connection that can withstand quite heavy loads. You need to screw it all the way into the frame, after which a decorative cap of the required color is put on the cap so that the fasteners are not visible.

Conclusion

The range of fasteners nowadays is simply huge; the options described above will be enough for you to carry out almost any work with PVC windows. The main thing is to choose the optimal type of screws and use them correctly.

The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under this review, we will sort out all the unclear points and find correct solution for any situation.

September 20, 2016

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Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of “elite” element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems are no longer so expensive and have become widely used used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones in terms of insulation, sound insulation, and By by matching all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just in appearance, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during renovations, the issue is almost always clearly resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, currently engaged in their assembly in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large production volumes they can afford it. But you can often find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and in today’s times this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by doing the installation yourself?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to have a good understanding of the process technology and immediately prepare the necessary Consumables. And, of course, be extremely careful when installing and strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already stood the test of time, and it would be inappropriate to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

First of all, the necessary measurements are taken and an order is placed for the window structure.
After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
The next stage is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary depending on the chosen method of window installation, which will be discussed below.
Most important stage– correct installation of the window in the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
Next, the seams between the frame and the opening are sealed, and water and vapor barriers are provided.
The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside.
The final adjustment of the window mechanisms and installation of the necessary fittings are carried out.
When finishing is done in the room, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main methods of fastening plastic windows

Before you take on independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

Firstly, someone who does not accurately understand its structure should not undertake window installation. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Opening window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, it can be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame using special fittings that allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost that divides the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material used is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly in the frame profile (with a “blind” part of the window) glass unit It can be single-chamber (two glasses) or double-chamber (3 glasses).

5 – Fitting elements. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 – PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if positions coincide with the top picture, their numbers are saved):

— The frame profile (item 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (item 7). This item etc I guess T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

— The structure of the sash profile (item 2) is approximately the same. The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (item 8)

— The glass unit in the frame or in the window sash is held in place by glazing beads (item 9).

— The diagram additionally shows the installation of a window slope made of PVC panels. Pos. 10 – starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the cross-sectional shape of the profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window will differ, but still typical diagram remains the same.

More details about this, and how to correctly approach the choice of its optimal model, are described in a special publication on our portal.

Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) pre-attached to the window.

A. In the first case (in the picture on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastening element is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

The window in the opening is installed much more accurately.
The fastening strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one when large sizes windows (2000 mm or more on any side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of floors, etc.)

Flaws:

The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For an inexperienced master this is an extra problem, since when dismantling the beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. Due to the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
Violating the integrity of the profile (drilling through it) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and in certain conditions can provoke.
This type of installation takes more time.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets mounted on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (shown schematically in the top figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

Such installation is easier and faster, especially if standard anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end part of the profile.

The integrity of the profile is not compromised - there is no need to drill through it.
There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - it can be installed assembled. (Because of this, this method is sometimes called “no decompression”). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons. Firstly, most often windows are delivered from the manufacturer in disassembled form. Secondly, installing an assembled window with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, is very difficult and dangerous due to its large mass. And thirdly, it is still more convenient to fill the remaining cracks from the outside, provide external waterproofing and install the drip lining with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - in terms of installation strength, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

It is immediately appropriate to make one very important remark. Apartment owners, one way or another, will have to contact a company that manufactures windows to place an order. The optimal situation would be for a manufacturer’s representative to come and independently carry out all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the likelihood of an error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to understand the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window, for some reason, suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the company’s employees, and the customer will have the right to demand the production of the correct window design.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, measuring the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If you decide to take the measurements yourself, you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

IN panel high-rise buildings most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way external slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
In brick houses there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the picture on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measuring a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and on top the window frame should be quartered by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and there should still be a gap left for filling it with polyurethane foam.

This means that the measurement is carried out as follows:

Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should overlap them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, add 30 ÷ 50 mm to the resulting distance. This way the required window width is obtained in advance.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with size IN, which shows the distance between the slopes near the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side there should be at least 20 mm left for sealing with polyurethane foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, since there is a certain range of window opening to a quarter.

Now about the window height. The approach of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, does not happen in openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. To install them, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers install it during the order process, but it never hurts to check it.

An important design element is the substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the top quarter to the point where the sloping ebb (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

15 ÷ 25 mm is added to this value - this is the frame extending to the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. There should also be a gap under it for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required window height.

For control, measurements are taken inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense to remove the window sill altogether, since it will soon change anyway). The resulting height of the opening will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm at the top and 5 ÷ 20 mm at the bottom for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if you do not plan to install a substitution profile (which in itself is a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order the window sill, ebb and flow and slopes.

The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width – the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

Window sill length - maximum opening width ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and internal wall plus the desired distance for the window sill to protrude outwards (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a straight opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a straight opening is much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - A).

The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two values of the installation gap WITH. As before, we take it as 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the installation gap at the top (20 mm) and the thickness of the installation profile (30 mm) and the 10 mm gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the installation gap from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a quarter window.

If the measurements have been completed, you can proceed to place your order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it is better to call a surveyor to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight misalignment of the opening that has arisen due to shrinkage of the building.

Preparing tools and consumables

While the window is being manufactured, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare tools and consumables for installation.

Tools and materials you will need:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a hammer chisel		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Construction level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer, for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood hacksaw
	Anchor plates - if the “without unpacking” or combined fastening method is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm – for anchor plates or Ø10 mm – when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL)		Thermal and vapor barrier tape PPE, preferably foil
	Vapor permeable diffuse tape		Polyurethane foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should be enough.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table requires some explanation:

I.First of all, let’s figure out the number of fastening points. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of fastening points. Three of the most common option - window with impost, completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, three basic quantities appear, A, IN And WITH.

A– the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fastening points. Be sure to place two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. Value A is taken to be from 150 to 180 mm.

IN– the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

— for “white” PVC windows – no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made from colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH– the distance from the impost to the fastening point towards the larger sash area (if two wide sash are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a diagram before your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to immediately sketch out a diagram of the placement of fastening points - this will be a good help when carrying out the work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? This depends on the wall material and on the method of fastening the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are used. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or walls made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferable on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, for example, lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They are also suitable for hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case where installation on anchor plates will be used, two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, you will need the plates themselves - and it is better to purchase them from the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must exactly fit the PVC profile. To attach the plate, you will also need self-tapping screws with a 4 × 25 mm drilling point - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fastening elements must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For different wall materials it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4×16 screws may be needed to attach the flashing and auxiliary elements for installing a window sill. They are also needed if it is intended to outside install a mosquito net on the windows - plastic brackets are attached to the frame profile.

PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it will be enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And it will be attached from below when installing the external ebb. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely insulate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when doorway with a quarter, and it is advisable to glue it along the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
Polyurethane foam: the best option is to purchase cylinders with “pro” foam, the use of which will require a special gun. It does not give “inadequate” expansion, like the cheap ones sold in spray bottles, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame struts. In addition, it is of much higher quality, more durable, and applying it to the right places is much easier, without unnecessary waste.
Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. If installed correctly, if there are any gaps, they will be very insignificant, that is, a large amount of sealant will not be required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase film with which he will cover pieces of furniture, walls, and floors in the room where the window will be installed - the work will be quite dusty at first.

Removing the old window

After the window is manufactured and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and labor-intensive, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	The largest sashes are removed first. For example, if it is dismantled balcony block, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - you can remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window “plays” or is very rotten, then for reasons of basic safety the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended to immediately remove all dismantled parts from the work area - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and causing injury.
	If the side of the window has a window, then remove it first. If you were unable to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often this happens), you will have to apply force - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually suspended on hinges from which they can be removed simply by lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents have been removed - you can proceed to dismantling the frame.
	First, the central post - the impost - is removed. To make this easier, the import is sawed down closer to the bottom of the frame. You need to saw with a hacksaw - in some videos, craftsmen flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. Under no circumstances should you repeat after them - this is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower frame jumper is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to saw it through using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place where it is attached to the vertical stand, then you can help yourself there with a pry bar
	After this, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower lintel, dismantle the window sill. It can be knocked down with a hammer from the street side.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Move to a vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged at the top and bottom. Then it is better to move it a little away from the wall and also saw it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side no longer rests on anything, and should come off without any problems.
	Last vertical stand The frame should also not resist if it is carefully pryed with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the frame posts and the wall, you have to use a hammer drill to chop off the plastered slopes.
	The last stage is to clean the vacated window opening from old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All waste is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to adjusting the opening - removing defects in the concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a hammer drill, installing a chisel-spatula on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 mm high, right at the place where the window sill will be installed.

After removing the dust, you should not be lazy and go over the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the polyurethane foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If you plan to install a window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate even when placing the order that it will be delivered disassembled (and this most often happens). If not, you will have to disassemble it yourself.

First, the glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pryed off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appears, it is expanded by carefully moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the locking part. Then all that remains is to place your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead so that there is no confusion when reinstalling it. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - a pencil mark from a PVC surface is very difficult to wipe off.

Retrieved. The most convenient way to do this is with a special suction cup, but if you don’t have one, you can do it this way. Be careful - the glass unit is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the glass unit. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that they will fit in the same place during installation.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove double glazing from a PVC window

There is no need to remove the glass unit from the opening sash - just remove the sash itself. This is not difficult to do. To begin with, the sash handle is moved to the “closed” position - it looks down. The decorative casing is removed from both hinges, top and bottom - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After this, the sash handle is moved to the “open” position. The door tilts up onto itself and is then removed with a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from working area so as not to accidentally damage during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

The next step in preparation is drilling holes to mount the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up diagram for placing the fastening points, the centers of the holes are marked and lightly marked. A metal drill Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing through the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests on the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, one insignificant obstacle remains in the form of the internal PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and even edges.

The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below with a regular locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not there, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise filling the cavities of this profile with polyurethane foam in advance, about a day before installing the window, so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

Removed from the outside of the frame protective covering. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun even a little. And in general, it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. WITH inside This coating can be removed later.

If there will be a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are installed on 2 × 16 mm self-tapping screws, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with pressing the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and to ensure reliable fixation of the mesh, as well as installation and removal of it by moving it upward until it stops in the upper brackets.

The last preparatory step in this case is gluing PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Typically, the PSUL is placed in such a way that there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter.

B. If the window is to be installed on anchor plates, the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

— Firstly, you don’t have to unglaze the blind sash - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned; installation will be somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

— Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended fastening points. They have serrated or smooth hooks that should fit perfectly into the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to apply moderate force, for example, by knocking it with a mounting hammer, and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate into the profile groove...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in designated place. The plates are attached perpendicular to the frame, and then bent so that they fit into the window when installed. doorway.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, you can make recesses in advance with a hammer drill. The goal is to reach the wall material, knocking off the unreliable plaster layer (if there is one), and make it easier for yourself further work for finishing slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be covered with finishing.

The remaining preparation steps do not differ from those about co which were mentioned above.

Installation and fastening of windows in doorway

Very carefully, taking all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against the frame tipping outward, it is placed in the window opening. If the opening has quarters, then the frame should fit tightly to them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately align the frame in the vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. One good piece of advice I can give is to temporarily fix the window approximately in the center from above onto the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and the work will be much easier.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower frame jumper - that’s why a tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical collapse of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct positioning of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are certainly preferable, and if you can purchase them, then this would be an ideal option. They “work in pairs”, engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to the other, you can set the desired height with an accuracy of up to a millimeter.

You can, of course, get by with wooden wedges or pads, but this often requires cutting them, replacing them, installing several pieces in a “pyramid” pattern, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can proceed to fastening it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen It is often practiced to make a hole in the wall directly through already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% confident in the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the steadiness of his hand. It happens that the hammer drill encounters an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not stopped, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole directly through the frame is quite dangerous.

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a hammer drill, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case you will have to put the window back in its previous position and wedge it, but with the drilled holes this will not be difficult to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared socket...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, hammered with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without “fanatical” force so that the head does not deform the PVC profile.

If dowel-nails are used, the plastic part is inserted first, and then the spacer nail is carefully driven in.

...followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant to be sure.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even simpler. They are finally given the required bend so that they fit tightly to the surface of the window opening. Directly through their holes, holes are drilled in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the “without unpacking” method

The standards specify two fasteners per plate, although, judging by numerous photographs on the Internet, many craftsmen limit themselves to one. Probably, with two, it’s more reliable, and they’re not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow installing two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and ebb. An important note - in the case when the installer decided for the sake of economy () to use inexpensive “household” polyurethane foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such foam has a very significant expansion force, which can even lead to slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window must be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling the openings with high-quality “professional” foam will not entail such consequences. Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. In no case should there be any internal cavities left - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which allows you to economically control its consumption. Particular attention should be paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is disassembled, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, making certain adjustments if necessary. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting is an excellent insulation material, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive humidity. This should be done immediately after it has completely hardened (in about a day) and the excess is cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or covering with panels.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free release of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of destructive effects when freezing and expanding.

And on the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro- and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow direct penetration of water into the insulation layer from the inside, nor penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of window sill and ebb

A. Window sill installation can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or foam, on special brackets or or using homemade fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the design of the frame itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically to mate with the plane of the window sill. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedging it from below to fit tightly to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and ebb is given. Pay attention to the location film membranes.

Let's consider the option of installing a window sill on polyurethane foam, as one of the most common.

Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to Exact size, often - taking into account a slight recess into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a fine-tooth hacksaw.
Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, ensure that the panel inserted into its designated slot on the frame or mounting profile is in an exactly horizontal position.
Now the window sill must be loaded so that when filling the space under it with foam, it does not move from its established position. The load can be given by placing, for example, containers of water on the windowsill evenly along the entire length.

The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with polyurethane foam. She will and thermal insulator, and will act as glue.
It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

If there is a small gap left between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next step is to install the tide outside. An approximate diagram is shown in the figure.

The low tide mounting area is already covered vapor permeable membrane that completely covered the polyurethane foam. It is recommended to glue a PSUL strip along the plane of the opening - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, in increments of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted on an overlay, and then it makes sense to coat its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge fits into a special groove in the mounting profile from below - then you won’t have to worry about rainwater getting under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by hollowing out grooves for this. Then it will be easy to seal them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, you need to bring the window into fully working state.

The double-glazed windows are inserted into place using the plastic pads that were originally there. According to the numbering, the glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
If there is a need, an accurate one is made (how to do this is in a special article on the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, the hinges are covered with decorative covers.

Essentially, the window installation is complete. Only the issue of installation remained unsolved - but this is a topic for separate consideration, which is also given attention on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed Video instruction for installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Reading time: 10 min.

Plastic windows have a number of advantages over their wooden counterparts, which is why they have gained wide popularity. An important aspect correct installation windows is the choice of technology and fastening system. Fasteners for plastic windows are responsible for sound insulation properties and service life.

Types of fasteners for installing plastic windows

There are several types of fasteners for plastic windows. Each of them has a number of advantages and disadvantages, which determine the appropriateness of use in each specific case. They are divided into the following types:

Anchor dowel. It is most rational to use fasteners with a diameter of 10 mm. The hardware ensures reliable fixation of the frame. The length of the dowels depends on the installation location and the characteristics of the walls.
Nog. It has become widespread in Europe; it is difficult to find high-quality fasteners in domestic stores.
Anchor plates. Each type of window is equipped with a specific type of mounting plate, but there are universal models. Sometimes the plates are not screwed into the frame, but snapped into place.

Previously, wood screws were used to install windows, but such a system has a low reliability indicator. Their only advantage is their low cost, but you should not skimp on window installation. The choice of window fasteners should be based on the features of the system and the skill level of the technician.

Anchor or anchor dowel

Fastening windows with anchors for installing PVC windows is carried out by professionals. Structurally, the device consists of three parts: an internal sleeve, a threaded screw and a sleeve. The movement of the screw along the thread leads to expansion of the sleeve by the sleeve, due to which the fastening ensures high degree reliability. In some cases, a significant fixation force is a disadvantage, since it is very difficult to dismantle such a system: reinstalling windows or replacing them will require serious physical and time costs. In addition, installation should be carried out by an experienced specialist.

The anchor dowel is not suitable for use in apartments with multi-layer walls. The spacer will not be able to secure itself and the fixture will fail. Walls panel houses P-44 series have an air gap with thick insulation; it is impossible to anchor the frame in such a wall.

The dimensions of the dowel differ, but experts prefer devices with a length of 10-20 cm and a thickness of 0.8-1 cm. The choice of size is based on the distance from the frame to the slope. The anchor is mounted in the internal cavity of the system directly under the glass. As a rule, the frame has a thickness of 40 mm, the minimum length of penetration into the wall should also be at least 40 mm; these calculations must be taken into account when purchasing hardware. The best option– 110-160 mm.

Dowel or screw for concrete

It is a standard screw, which provides less reliable fastening than in the previous case, but it is easy to dismantle if necessary. The disadvantage of the product is the difficulty of installation in insulated walls. Fastening a plastic window with a dowel is used if the window opening is made of concrete or brick.

The size is selected according to the same principle as the size of the anchor dowel. The most rational solution would be to purchase a screw with a thickness of 8 mm and a length of at least 100 mm.

Anchor plates

Disputes over this type of fastener have not subsided for many years, but leading window manufacturers have abandoned screws and dowels in favor of plates. The product comes in two types: non-rotating and rotating (the long section changes the angle of inclination). The installation technology is distinguished by its simplicity and speed of implementation: the plate is attached to the end side of the window, and the second edge is fixed to the wall with a simple plastic dowel. The advantages of the method include the following:

no need for through drilling of the frame;
if there is reinforcement or other obstacle in the wall, then the product can easily be rotated under the right angle, there is no need to drill a second hole;
This is one of the few mounting options that are suitable for fixing in the walls of P-44 series houses.

Many home craftsmen claim that such a system is unreliable because it is not able to withstand severe wind loads, but this assumption is wrong. About 90% of the total load comes from polyurethane foam. When using another type of insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam), preference should be given to screws and dowels.

Size range includes various options. As in previous cases, 10-20 cm will be enough, but in order to save money, preference is given to plates 12-13 cm long. Experts recommend ordering the fastening system along with the window, which will guarantee the quality and reliability of the fixation.

Basic window mounting methods

Before you start installing a plastic window, you need to understand its structural elements and consider the features of the PVC system. Depending on the manufacturer, products differ in reinforcement configuration, cross-sectional shape, number of air chambers, and glass unit design. Depending on these indicators, the installation method is selected. Two options are available: fastening plastic windows with anchor plates and dowels through the frame.

Recently, new developments have appeared that replace wooden and plastic analogues; their installation has a number of distinctive nuances. The fastening for mounting soft windows consists of a grommet, a rotary bracket, a silicone strap and a French lock.

Using a plate

Once the structure is aligned with the opening, plates or brackets are attached to the frame and wall. Later they will hide behind the window sill and finishing. Positive traits method:

simplicity and high speed of installation, which is especially noticeable when using standard-type anchor plates - these devices fit into special grooves at the end of the profile;
no need to drill the frame;
suitable for fastening plastic windows in a wooden house;
the window is secured without preliminary disassembly;
the absence of holes ensures tightness and preservation of thermal insulation properties.

In terms of resistance to wind and weight loads, the method is inferior to the first. Therefore, the installation of windows on the upper floors of an apartment building is carried out using dowels and other types of anchors.

Installation of a window frame on an anchor

In this case, the frame is drilled through. The hole in the frame must be aligned along the axis with the hole in the wall. The fastening device is inserted into the frame and tightened, its upper part is hidden behind a double-glazed window or a slightly open sash. The advantages of this method include the following factors:

high installation accuracy;
reliability of fastening.

Significant disadvantages:

Installation of the system requires mandatory disassembly: it is necessary to dismantle the double-glazed window and glazing beads. This unnecessary problems for a master without experience and skills.
Due to drilling holes in the frame, the thermal insulation properties are reduced. Under certain circumstances, this causes the window to fog up.

Main stages of window installation

Window installation consists of several successive stages. Each of them must be approached as responsibly as possible, taking into account the recommendations of specialists. The process begins with measurements and ends with installing the window sill and finishing the opening with plastic slopes.

Taking measurements

First of all, you need to contact a company that produces and sells windows. Ideally, a specialist should come and independently determine the size of the plastic windows. This will be a guarantee of quality and correct production. In case of errors, all the blame will be assigned to him, so the company will compensate for the damage. Serious organizations include the cost of measuring the opening in the price of the products.

The calculation is carried out taking into account the configuration of the place where the metal-plastic structure will be installed. Measuring a window with a quarter assumes that on both vertical sides and on top the frame protrudes by a quarter, that is, 15-25 mm, taking into account the gap for the mounting foam. Dimensions are taken as follows:

The distance between the opposite surfaces of the slopes is measured from below, above and in the center. It should be noted that the window must fit into them at least 15 mm, so 40 mm is added to the result. This indicator allows you to determine the width of the future product.
The approach of the frame part remains the same. As a rule, openings do not have a lower quarter, since a window sill and external ebb are installed in its place. Their installation requires a special profile.

Measurements from the outside are taken from the upper quarter to the point where the ebb is inclined in relation to outer corner opening. TO given value 20 mm is added and the profile height is subtracted, while the sealing gap must be taken into account.

Measuring a straight window without a quarter is much easier to do. The opening is measured horizontally and vertically at its widest points. Height is the difference between the size of the opening, the upper installation gap and the thickness of the profile along with its gap. Without the profile, the installation gap will be 40 mm. General value is the height of the opening minus 60 mm.

You can determine the window width using a simple mathematical formula. The indicator consists of the difference between the widest point of the opening and two sizes of the installation gap (on average 20 mm).

Preparing tools and consumables

It will take at least 3 days to make a window. At this time, you can start preparing the tools and necessary auxiliary materials. The speed and quality of work depends on this. For installation you will need:

perforator;
screwdriver;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
building level;
drill for metal;
rubberized hammer;
putty knife;
pencil or pen;
hacksaws for wood and metal;
anchor plates, dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws for fastening the window;
sealing tape;
thermal insulation;
polyurethane foam;
silicone based sealant.

The set may vary depending on the configuration and features of the product. The cost of these materials and tools is significant, so it makes sense to use the services of a competent craftsman.

Removing the old window

After the preparatory activities, you can proceed directly to work. This process begins with dismantling the old window frame with glass. It is performed in the following sequence:

The largest sashes are removed, and the glass is first removed.
The windows are removed from the panels, sometimes it is difficult to do this without using force.
The windows are removed from their hinges using a pry bar (you need to lift them up).
To dismantle the frame, you should start from the central post; saw it in the middle with a hacksaw.
All parts of the structure can be easily removed using a pry bar and a nail puller.
After this they move to the windowsill. If he doesn't give in, he can be knocked out from the street.
The side posts can be sawed off, and the top one can be removed without difficulty.

The window opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, defects in the concrete casting are corrected, mortar residues are removed, etc. A hammer drill is used for this. With its help you can make grooves for the future window sill.

Preparing windows and components for installation

If you choose the “with unpacking” installation method, then you need to agree in advance with a company representative so that the structure is sent unassembled. Otherwise, you will need to disassemble it yourself. To secure a PVC window, you need to make holes for fasteners. The drill diameter is 10.2 mm, the device is inserted into a screwdriver or hammer drill (no impact mode).

The protective coating is removed from the outer surface of the frame. If you plan to install mosquito net, then you need to prepare brackets for it. The elements are mounted on self-tapping screws directly into the PVC profile. At the junction of the quarters of the opening with the frame, PSUL tape is glued.

Installation using anchor plates has a number of distinctive features. There is no need to disassemble the blind sash; it is enough to do this with the opening parts. Of course, this will negatively affect the ease of installation, since the weight of the structure will be impressive. Plates are applied to the designated fixation points. They are equipped with hooks that perfectly match the profile elements on the frame. For reliable fixation, the fastening point can be hammered with a soft hammer until a characteristic click is heard, applying moderate force.

There is a hole in the center of each plate; a self-tapping screw is driven into it for fixation with the profile. The plates are installed at right angles to the frame profile, and then bent so as to ensure a tight fit to the opening.

Fixing the window frame in the opening

The quality of fastening a plastic window in an opening depends on its correct location. You can level the structure in the horizontal and vertical planes using a building level. The tilt is adjusted using special wedges made of plastic or wood.

Installation using the “unpacking” method involves making holes through ready-made channels in the frame. This technology is actively used in practice, but for this the master must have experience. If the hammer drill hits an obstacle, it will cause beating, which will cause damage to the PVC profile. For safety, use a hammer drill to mark the centers of future holes, dismantle the frame and proceed to full drilling.

The anchor is inserted into the hole through the cavity of the frame, knocked until it stops and screwed in, and the force must be moderate, otherwise the head will damage the surface of the frame. When using dowel nails, the plastic element is first inserted, and only after that the expansion type nail is driven in. The head is lubricated with silicone sealant and closed with a plug.

Installation using anchor plates is much easier. The main thing is that they fit snugly to the opening; for this you need to set the necessary bend. Holes are made in the wall directly through them. The fastening system is secured with dowel nails.

Foaming gaps and moisture protection device

After securing the frame and before foaming the gaps, you should install the remaining parts of the window. As the foam expands, the lightweight structure can warp, making assembly difficult.

Then the bottle is inserted into a special gun with a thin and long tip. Foaming is carried out from the bottom up in a uniform and dense layer. You cannot save on foam. If the gap thickness is more than 20 mm, then the space is filled in two passes, with a pause of 2-3 hours between them. This approach is a guarantee of high-quality work. Polyurethane foam has excellent heat-insulating properties, but it is negatively affected by humidity and direct sunlight, so slopes need to be installed a day after application.

The foam is covered with a diffusion membrane to ensure the removal of excess moisture and protect the product from penetration from the outside. On the inside, PPE is used - the film has vapor and waterproofing properties. The foil side should be directed towards the room for thermal protection.

Window assembly and sashes adjustment

Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, glazing beads are mounted in established sequence. For convenience, a rubberized hammer is used. It is important to ensure that the beads fit smoothly and make a characteristic click. Next, the shutters are mounted and the functionality of the mechanism is checked in the ventilation and full opening mode.

The sash is adjusted relative to the horizontal plane by bevelling and loosening the fastenings. To fix the problem you need to insert into window hinge hex wrench. Clockwise turns move the sash to the required distance. Vertical adjustment is carried out using a hinged loop located at the bottom of the frame. First you need to remove the protection cap. Clockwise rotation raises the sash, counterclockwise lowers it.

Installation of window sill, ebb and plastic slopes

The window sill is mounted on polyurethane foam, glue, brackets or homemade devices. As the latter, home craftsmen use direct suspensions. Some window designs involve pairing the frame and window sill. If it is not available, a panel is placed under the frame profile to ensure a complete connection. The window sills are installed after the window sill is installed.

The location of the ebb tide is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane to protect the polyurethane foam. PSUL tape is glued around the perimeter of the opening, thanks to which the inclined ebb will have support, providing an additional barrier to street moisture .

The tide is attached to the profile of the plastic window using self-tapping screws. A distance of 10-15 cm is maintained between each of them. Problem areas are covered with plaster and silicone sealant. The slopes of plastic windows are finished last, and the plastic sheets are mounted on the prepared structure.

Additional recommendations from specialists on the installation and operation of plastic windows

Many users are faced with the problem of condensation forming on windows. To eliminate it, you need to ensure the movement of warm air flow to the glass surface. Systematic ventilation reduces the humidity in the room, which reduces the likelihood of fogging several times, this is especially true for rooms such as the bathroom and kitchen. Experts recommend installing a ventilation system in your home. If you attach a thermometer to a plastic window, you can control and minimize the temperature difference.

It is periodically necessary to clean the drainage channels; they remove excess moisture from the internal cavity of the windows. After installation, you should get rid of debris, traces of putty, and polyurethane foam. The use of sharp instruments is strictly prohibited. It is recommended to use a plastic spatula and a vacuum cleaner.

Products from PVC profile don't need special care, but following some rules will help increase the life and ease of use of windows. The main requirement is for the composition of detergents. Preference should be given to special substances intended for plastic and glass surfaces.

Contact with acetone, gasoline, or solvent damages the profile surface.

Installation and fastening of plastic windows is an important and responsible moment that requires certain skills from the master. If you have the tools and knowledge, you can perform the installation yourself. However, if unsuccessful, the manufacturer may deny the warranty. Calling a specialist will incur additional costs. For quality installation for plastic windows, you should choose a trusted company.

Installing plastic windows is not a very labor-intensive job. Therefore, each person can independently begin installing plastic windows. But anyone who decides to install windows themselves is faced with the problem of choosing fasteners. After all, there are many types of fasteners on the product market. And every novice builder wonders.

What fasteners are best to choose for window installation? To answer this question unambiguously, let's look at this issue thoroughly. And we will consider the types of fasteners for plastic windows, as well as installation rules and characteristics.

Types of fastening elements for windows

Anchor dowel
Anchor plates
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Now let's pay attention to their features.

Anchor dowel

This type of fastening for plastic windows is very reliable. The principle of operation is designed in such a way that when the screw is tightened, the bushing expands the walls of the sleeve and the element is securely fastened.

Size. There are a huge number of dowel sizes from 100 to 200 mm, and their thickness is from 7-12 mm. To calculate your dowel length, you need to measure the thickness of the window and opening from the frame and slope.

Typically, the thickness of the frame varies about 4-6 cm, and the dowel should enter the wall at a distance of 4 cm. If your distance from the wall to the window is about 3-4 cm, then you need a 110 mm dowel, if 8-10, then 160- 190 mm.

Flaws. The disadvantage of any type of fastening is that once the dowel is installed, it can no longer be dismantled. Therefore, you need to take window alignment very seriously, because... correcting your mistakes will cost you a lot and take a large number of time.

Also, if you hit the reinforcement with a drill, you can break the drill and have to drill a new hole.

Important. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment panel building, you need to find out its type and wall structure. Because in many panel houses Builders install insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation you may get caught in the insulation and the dowel may fall out. Also, do not install the dowel in soft building materials.

The depth of drilling inward for the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. IN concrete wall the depth is 4 cm, and in a brick wall 7-8 cm.

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A dowel is a simple screw that is screwed into the wall to secure a window. This type of fastener is also very reliable. Unlike a dowel, the dowel can be easily unscrewed in any case.

Dimensions. There are a huge number of dowel sizes from 100 to 250 mm, and thickness from 5-12 mm. To calculate the length of the dowel, you need to measure the width of the window and opening from the frame and slope. If your distance from the wall to the window is about 3-4 cm, then you need a 110 mm dowel, if 8-10, then 170-200 mm.

Flaws. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment panel building, you need to find out its type and wall structure. Because in many panel houses, builders install insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation you may get caught in the insulation and the dowel may fall out.

You should also not install the dowel in soft building materials.

Important. The depth of drilling inwards under the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. In a concrete wall the depth is 6 cm, and in a brick wall 7-8 cm.

Anchor plates

This type of window fastening is suitable for panel houses that have insulation and the use of anchors and dowels is impossible. It is also perfect for wooden houses and baths, where it is not possible to fix windows in the wall. By filling the free space with polyurethane foam, this design will be very reliable and warm.

Dimensions. The length of this fastening element varies from 150-200 cm. One edge of the plate is secured with a self-tapping screw to the frame from the outside, and the other is secured to any load-bearing structure for two self-tapping screws. The length of the second part should be around 10 cm.

Flaws. This type of fastening is not the most reliable.

Important. This method of fastening is the most common, because... it is the simplest. It is mainly used by beginning builders. The anchor plates should be located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corners of the window opening and at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

I cannot say which type of fastening of plastic windows is the best. Each type has its own disadvantages and advantages. You must choose the type of fastening yourself, depending on the technical features your house.

Photos of fasteners for plastic windows

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