How to caulk a log house in winter conditions or in the rain. What is the best way to caulk a log bathhouse and how to do it correctly When to caulk a log house

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Modern construction is receiving increasingly high-quality materials and technologies. Allowing them to be applied not only to stone and monolithic structures, but also to be used in the usual form of log houses. This gives options for more time for their operation, as well as high-quality rotting and destruction of wood. A separate point can be noted such a process as caulking, which allows you to ensure the tightness of the entire structure being created and the additional process of protection from the penetration of harmful insects and fungi.

In the process of caulking houses made of logs, it is important to choose not only the material and tools, but also to understand the technology of each stage. At the same time, it is practical to combine practical nuances and rules with modern solutions for each of the structures being built.

The complex of work on caulking a log house must be carried out in two stages, combining individual criteria and sequence. This should be work that will allow rough caulking to be carried out during the construction of walls and partitions. And the process of final caulking of the cracks between the logs after the construction of the entire building.

When implementing the first method, the lower crown of logs is laid, after which the insulating layer is laid out, with a uniform overhang and filling of the space for connecting the subsequent crown of logs. After which a new crown is laid. This is done from the very bottom of the structure being erected to the last crown of the walls. After that, the hanging ends of the insulation are driven into the cracks between the logs.

Rough caulking option

In case of using the second method, the process starts after all installation work and the arrangement of the last crown. This method allows you to carry out parallel work on installing the roof and installing the roofing carpet, performing the process of caulking inside and outside the house. It is important to note here that each of the crowns must be filled with insulation on both sides at the same time, excluding curvature and destruction of the integrity of the structures.

The “log caulk” produced is performed by driving insulation between each of the crowns, starting from the bottom of the structure, gradually moving to the upper elements. This method is best performed using tape material, placing it at the junction of two crowns and pushing it tightly inside the structure. In this case, there is a need to leave the edges hanging down by 5-7 centimeters, for subsequent twisting into rollers and filling the resulting space between the logs.

After the first stage of caulking, there is a need to carry out additional filling of the cracks. This is carried out 2-3 years after the construction of the house. The work should also be done from the bottom up, filling all the seams along the perimeter of the building from the inside and outside of the walls.

Tool used when caulking a log house

The right tool for filling the seams between the crowns of logs will simplify this process. Combining practicality and the ability to use modern materials and technologies. To do this, you need to choose a high-quality and practical tool, the list of which should include:

a flat blade made of wood or metal, 5-6 mm thick and a blade width of up to 100 mm; used for sealing seams and cracks between crowns;
a flat chisel, with a working blade width of 5-6 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm, made on a metal basis; used to compact the insulation layer and the laid material;
wooden caulking, with a triangular blade and a longitudinal groove, width 1709 mm and thickness from 5 to 7 mm; allows you to form rollers to finally fill the gaps between logs;
metal wedges, with a blade width from 20 to 35 mm; necessary for widening cracks during compaction and laying of material;
wooden hammer, mallet; used for driving sealant into the seams between crowns.

Caulking tools

The materials used for caulking, the advantages and disadvantages of each of them

When forming the correct process for sealing seams between the crowns of logs, it is important not only to understand “how to caulk a log house”, and to apply better quality material. This should be a formula that will combine durability and practicality in each individual case and on the selected area of the house structure.

A special roll material based on flax and jute is used as inter-crown insulation. It is jute that allows the logs to fit more tightly and create the required conditions for thermal insulation of the entire wall structure. This material for caulking, it is placed in the groove below the lying crown and secured around the entire perimeter using a construction stapler. Also, due to this type of material, reliable sound insulation is ensured inside the entire building, in partitions and external walls.

Materials for caulking

Using jute also has its disadvantages. It is susceptible to rotting and its service life is significantly limited, unlike the use of flax and moss.

A more common and long-used material for caulking a log house is the usual moss. There are two types of moss, red and white, it is used depending on its growth in the region where it is found. In this case, the resulting caulking of a log house with your own hands is considered more environmentally friendly and combines only natural materials and raw materials, without the use of machine processing of the material and preparing it for use for sealing seams.

But a significant disadvantage of using moss is the difficulty of finding building materials on the market in different regions. Which benefits the choice of the usual flax.

Step-by-step technology and process of work on caulking a log house

Today, there are several technologies that allow high-quality sealing and caulking of seams and cracks between the crowns of logs. Each of them uses separate materials and tools.

Stretched caulk

The combination of practicality and consistency of this technology allows you to use both jute and regular moss. This technology allows you to distribute the material evenly along the entire length and perimeter of the building being constructed at the stage of installation of each of the crowns of logs. At the same time, this option of work is considered more productive, since it does not require the additional use of tools, but only a high-quality layout of the material for caulking. Of course, each of the craftsmen has his own method and the amount of material placed in the existing groove between the logs, but there is also a limitation - the material should hang 5-7 cm on both sides of the log. This is the case when using moss. And in case of use tape material, it should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the logs and have an overlap of 5 cm with the previous roll being spread.

It is also worth noting that this sealing is carried out in two stages, this is at the time of installation of the walls and with the subsequent driving in of the remaining material after the construction of the walls.

Caulking set

When implementing this technology, it will be important to understand that if there are wider seams and gaps between the crowns, then you cannot do without the use of jute strands. This method will allow you to practically and efficiently fill the existing space, evenly and gradually placing the material into the existing grooves.

Along each of the crowns, gaps can be additionally embroidered, parallel to both sides of the walls, followed by filling with jute. After which the seams can remain open or be additionally sealed with decorative wood plaster.

Sealing knots and joints in corners

When carrying out the process of sealing corner elements or joining walls, it is important to fill each section in parallel, using the same sealant as when sealing straight sections of walls. But here it is important to frame the corners correctly and beautifully, without leaving uneven edges or excess material, since the load in these areas is much greater than on straight lines along the perimeter of the walls. It is necessary to hammer the applicable material as tightly as possible to prevent it from scattering and additional compaction under the mass of wood.

Cost and price range for the work performed on caulking a log house

The cost for the work performed can vary from 60 to 150 rubles. Prices for caulk are calculated per 1 linear meter. At the same time, each of the craftsmen takes into account not only the practicality of the material used, but also the technology being implemented, depending on the resulting seam between the logs or the customer’s desire for the materials used.

The height of the structure is also taken into account, which will require additional time to install the scaffolding and scaffolding. The price increases starting from a building height of 1.2 - 1.5 meters. It is calculated taking into account the number of crowns up to a given height from the foundation of the building. At the same time, it is worth taking into account the number of nodes and indirect sections of walls that are present in each individual project. This also increases the cost of work. But each region of Russia has its own gradation, taking into account the demand for this type of construction and the availability of appropriate material for caulking.

City	Price
Moscow	from 70 to 100 rub.
Saint Petersburg	from 70 to 100 rub.
Kazan	from 70 to 90 rub.
Rostov-on-Don	from 90 to 120 rub.
Krasnodar	from 60 to 100 rub.

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.

Caulking rules

Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.

1 way

Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.

Method 2

Caulking begins after installation roofing system to the log house Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on until the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the outside. inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.

NameDescriptionWhat is it used for?


	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for filling gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house
	The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation
	Wooden hammer	Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks

The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.

Caulking materials

The following materials are used as inter-crown insulation:

red and white moss;
tow;
felt;
jute;
flax wool

Type of materialDescription


	Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation
	Tow is suitable for the initial caulking of a log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Disadvantages: labor-intensive installation, unaesthetic appearance of seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and is environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short term services.

Primary caulking “stretched”

The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put too much than not to add, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If you use tape insulation, installation is much simpler and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with the staples of a construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.

If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
unwind a small amount of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
put another strand on top, now without loops, and level it with a road maker.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.

To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.

Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back a little and drive the material into the gap again.

Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based; in summer, water-based.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The last option is very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.

Step 5. After sealing all inter-crown joints, remove the outer layer of film so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and excess should be removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed in the traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.

Video - How to caulk a log house

How to properly caulk a bathhouse: with moss, flax fiber, tow, felt

Any caulk wooden bath must be carried out in two stages: after completion of construction and after a year of shrinkage. For the work, the same insulation is used, which is laid between the links during construction. Traditionally, for caulking baths, they use: moss, felt, tow, and hemp. Readers will learn how to properly caulk a bathhouse with their own hands, what tools are needed and the intricacies of the work by studying the article to the end.

The bathhouse will have to be caulked in any case. The main thing is to do the work carefully.

Features of caulking baths using various materials

When assembling the bathhouse box, insulation is laid between each log or timber. But wood shrinks regardless of chamber drying or natural humidity. When shrinking, space appears between the logs, so it is necessary to caulk the bathhouse the first time to seal the seam and the second time to eliminate the resulting cracks.

It is easier to caulk the log house of a bathhouse using special tools: caulk and a rubber mallet or mallet. If there is no caulk, then you can use a regular chisel.

What material is better to caulk a bathhouse?

To caulk a log cabin, natural insulation materials are used: moss, hemp, tow, and felt. All materials are available, but each one must first be prepared in its own way.

Preparing moss for caulking

Insulating seams with moss is a traditional method that was used by our grandfathers. You can collect moss yourself or purchase ready-made moss at a hardware store.

Moss for caulking is one of the most environmentally friendly materials.

The price of moss starts from 250 rubles, so it’s cheaper to collect it in the forest. The collected moss is laid out under a canopy and left to dry for 1–2 weeks. It is necessary to stir the moss every 2-3 days to prevent it from rotting. Using wet moss will cause mold to form and destroy the wood. But it is necessary to ensure drying, as overdried moss will be fragile and difficult to work with.

Pros of moss:

Cost-effective (can be dialed for free in the forest).
Natural means that environmental friendliness is not compromised.

The material has more disadvantages:

When dry it becomes brittle.
It's difficult to caulk a bathhouse.
Afraid of moisture and mold.
Short-lived.
Burns well.

Choosing moss to caulk a log house is only necessary to save money. From the point of view of practicality and durability, it is better to pay attention to something else.

Preparing felt for caulking

Felt is a natural material based on wool. But modern felt may consist of refined fibers. Moreover, the composition is: 60% wool and 40% artificial fiber, 70% artificial fiber and 30% wool. For a bathhouse, choose completely natural felt or felt with a high wool content. The fact is that natural material does not burn, but simply smolders. Artificial felt is a fire hazard.

Felt for caulking baths is suitable natural or with a small addition of artificial fibers.

Before work, the felt must be treated with a formaldehyde solution; it will prevent moths from breeding in the wool. After spraying, the felt is hung in the sun and thoroughly dried.

The main advantages of felt include:

Naturalness.
It's easy to caulk a log house.

Natural material is afraid of moisture and rots.
Mice and birds love to use felt to build their nests, and pick out the material from cracks in the log house.
High price of natural insulation.

Preparing tow for caulking a bathhouse

There is no need to prepare the tow before work. But moths and other insects love to settle in natural material, therefore, tow is impregnated with any protective compound, for example, formaldehyde.

Tow for caulking baths can be bought in bales.

The main advantages of using tow:

Low price.
Natural material.
Ease of operation.

Afraid of moisture.
Over time it may begin to rot.
Mice live in insulation.

Tow is an alternative to moss, since the price of the material starts from 70 rubles.

Jute and flax fiber for bath caulking

Modern insulation options: jute and flax fiber can also be used to caulk a log house. But despite the manufacturer’s assurances that insulation materials are natural, most of them contain artificial additives. They make jute and flax fiber durable, but the environmental friendliness is reduced.

Yuan jute is sold in ribbon form.

Natural jute is made from bast wood from the linden family. Jute has high strength, durability and moisture resistance. When water gets on the material, it does not linger on the jute fibers, but quickly erodes.

Flax fiber is made from flax waste. The material performed well construction sites. Does not rot and does not absorb moisture. But there are pitfalls; sellers offer the buyer flax wool instead of flax fiber. The materials are similar in composition, but the batting is 40% artificial fiber. You can distinguish one from the other by color; linen batting is light, while natural insulation fibers are darker.

Available in the form of tape or cord. To caulk the frame of the bathhouse, tape jute or flax fiber is used.

You need to caulk the frame of your bathhouse with insulation that meets your requirements and capabilities.

It is necessary to caulk a bathhouse in two stages:

immediately after installing the box;
after the bath shrinks.

It is difficult to re-caulk a log house made of profiled timber, since the lock will not allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Therefore, it is better to take chamber-dried or glued material with a profile. Thus, shrinkage will be minimal and there will be no need to caulk again. All other types: log, simple timber, rounded timber need to be re-caulked. You need to work with special tools, as shown in the video:

Tools for work

To caulk a log house they use different kinds caulking:

typesetting;
curve;
breaking;

A mallet (mushkel) is also required. The tool is used to strike the caulk during work. The mallet can be replaced with a regular rubber hammer. A road builder is needed, a tool helps to level the seam after punching with caulking.

What subtleties do you need to know when caulking a bath?

The walls of the bathhouse need to be caulked from the bottom up along the entire perimeter. Moreover, the work is done by first caulking one row from the inside and outside, then the second, etc. The fact is that when caulking, the bathhouse is raised by 5–15 cm. If you do not work sequentially, the structure will warp. By caulking the bottom groove along the entire perimeter, outside and inside, then the second one, the bath structure will rise smoothly and evenly.

The caulking of the bath begins from the bottom, along the entire perimeter.

It is necessary to take care of the chimney before caulking the log house. The pipe is released at the junction with the ceiling and roof or removed temporarily so as not to damage it.

You can caulk a bathhouse using two methods:

to the set;
stretched out.

Let's look at each in more detail.

Sauna caulking set

It is necessary to caulk the set when sealing large cracks and grooves. The selected material is twisted into a 15-20 mm rope and, for convenience, wound into a small ball. The tourniquet is placed against the crack and hammered in using caulk and a mallet, as in the photo.

Caulking set and stretched.

First from above, then from below. They level everything with the help of a road worker.

Stretched bath caulk

The insulation does not need to be twisted into a bundle. It is simply pushed into the gap between the links and then punched through with a mallet. The work is carried out until the insulation no longer fits between the logs of the bathhouse frame.

It is necessary to caulk the log house slowly, carefully sealing every crack. Places where it is difficult to reach with a tool are simply foamed with polyurethane foam.

We answered the question of how to properly caulk a bathhouse various methods. After the bathhouse frame has finished caulking, it must be sanded and coated protective compounds. We'll talk about this next time.

What is caulk? Essentially, this is the process of compacting a log house with fibrous materials - moss, tow and others; in this case, heat-insulating material can be used as inter-crown insulation - flax-jute fiber, polyurethane foam, For example. But caulking correctly is not so easy - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.

3 Video selection of examples of caulking
4 What tools are needed for caulking

Technology for getting the job done right

Once the frame is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, shrinkage lies ahead. One can understand, of course, the desire of those building a bathhouse to make money, which is why they offer to caulk everything right there, but this needs to be done only after at least six months.

So, as soon as the log house has shrunk, you can begin to caulk it - from the bottom up, from the very bottom crown. This should be done this way: caulk one seam, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the log house will warp over time. The same applies to separate caulking of the external and internal sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deviation of the walls can easily occur.

Caulking is a careful, fussy job. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions in the walls. And it’s bad if, after caulking, the entire frame has risen up a whole crown - this will invariably lead to logs falling out of the dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.

Which material should you prefer?

So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log bath:

Moss - like the good old days

Moss is an environmentally friendly material that has medicinal properties. It resists temperature changes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly, it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time lasts quite a long time.

This material for caulking has been used since ancient times. Today it cannot be called the best, but many bathhouse owners use only it during construction.

So, when laying, you can only use highly moistened moss - then after drying the log house, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all the cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won’t have to caulk the bathhouse anymore. However experienced builders It is not recommended to attach special importance to the historical experience of its use - such finishing is still quite expensive.

Tow - not everything is so smooth

Caulking tow is the most difficult. As the log house dries out, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean out this insulation, caulk everything again and tightly fill the empty cavities - and this will take a lot of effort and time.

Sealants - modern technologies

Sealants for log baths are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their undeniable advantages. Sealants as a means of caulking are suitable if the log house is rounded, or well-cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is jute fabric between the logs. In this case, you can really get by with just one sealant. But, if the log house was made using a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular in shape, then it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.

If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to this scheme: the bathhouse is caulked with tow twice, and after it completely shrinks, the seams are sealed. And in order to save sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord of insulation in the grooves.

Moreover, for seams of different widths - different types sealant. But the seams turn out light and neat. And there is no longer any risk of subsequent caulking.

Caulk with tape insulation

One of the most simple ways caulking – caulking with tape. There is no need to cut it into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:

Step 1. First you need to approach one of the ends of the log house, place the end of the tape on the ground, and, unwinding it, gradually move away to the other end. There is no need to cut the tape - it is only important that it does not twist and runs in a strip. And most importantly, the tape should not be pulled, it should go slightly relaxed.

Step 2. Returning to the beginning of the tape, you need to lift its end and start tucking it right from the end between the crowns - with the tool that was selected depending on the existing gaps. As soon as it has already been passed to the end, you need to leave a margin of 10-20 cm - and only then can the tape be cut, and only with well-sharpened scissors.
Step 3. At this stage, you can already caulk the tape. But only a little bit - otherwise it will go into folds. Moreover, you need to caulk it not in one stage, but in several - until the tape completely disappears in the logs, and the reserve that was initially left will also disappear. As for the process itself, the tape should be pushed in diagonally.
Step 4. Now you need to repeat everything - between the same crowns. Oddly enough, two or three tapes will easily fit there, depending on their density. Those. The amount of insulation caulking itself requires at least four times what was originally used during installation - and this is only when caulking outside, whereas according to all the rules, the same should be done inside.

So, if the insulation padding has become dense, like wood, the caulking was successful. By the way, craftsmen advise taking jute of at least 10 mm – and the thicker it is, the better.

Video selection of examples of caulking

The easiest way to take a closer look at the process of caulking a log house is with a step-by-step video:

What tools are needed for caulking?

As for the caulking tool, in ancient times it looked exactly like this:

But today a Chinese instrument is considered a completely worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.

By the way, if you use a hard tool for caulking, you cannot avoid chips and dents - after all, it will slide off. Soft caulk is more difficult to use, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Made today and wooden caulking with curved edges, which penetrate deep into the seam quite easily, but they require skill to use.

In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!

Bath caulking: technology and material selection

A log bathhouse is a tradition that, even after several hundred years, has not lost its relevance. The tree has the most high level thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of the log structure does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only drawback of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.

When laying and adjusting logs between individual elements, horizontal through cavities will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.

To learn how to properly caulk a bathhouse, you need to understand all the intricacies of this matter. The process of caulking cracks in itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that need to be taken into account.

This article will describe step-by-step instruction and the main points on the topic - “how to caulk a bathhouse with your own hands.” In addition to a description of the technology, it will also provide detailed information about how to caulk a bathhouse, since in in this case right choice The material plays a decisive role in the success of the entire process.

Selection of material

Forest moss is the most traditional material, which our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking log houses. This is the most environmentally friendly material of all analogues used, since it is of natural origin, assembled by hand and is not treated with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - it does not grow moths and mold.

Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even when exposed to high humidity. At the same time, moss caulk is not only not susceptible to rotting, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important for insulating a bathhouse.

Also, using moss as a material for caulking allows you to significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in the nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite affordable. Natural moss is the most rational solution to the question, what is the best way to caulk a bathhouse?

The most common material for log caulking due to its cost, but flax has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bathhouse with flax, you should take into account that it contains practically no natural antiseptics - therefore, putrefactive bacteria, which damp wood contains in abundance, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.

It quickly deteriorates under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles; in its raw state, mold and mildew quickly grow. Without chemical treatment, you may find a large number of insect larvae in it the next season of operation.

Note!
Some of the disadvantages of this material can be mitigated through chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bathhouse.

Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bathhouse?

IN Lately expert opinion on the question of what is the best way to caulk a log bathhouse? - is increasingly leaning in favor of jute fiber, which recently appeared on the domestic market.

And this is not without meaning - natural jute is durable material, containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water-repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.

Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and accordingly all its negative qualities are present.
It is quite simple to distinguish them from each other - 100% jute is gray in color.

Caulk

There is practically nothing complicated in this process - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet (wooden hammer) and a set of caulking tools. There are two technologies for caulking seams - stretching and tapping.

Stretch

The insulation is pushed crosswise into the cavity with fibers; this is done either by hand or with caulk, depending on the width of the cavity. The material is hammered inside until about 4–5 cm of the insulation edge remains outside;
Then a roller of the appropriate diameter is made from the insulation, which is wrapped into the remaining edge, after which it is hammered into the cavity using a caulking chisel;

Recruitment

For this method the insulation must be twisted into strands like a rope, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the cavity between the log house;
The finished strands are pushed into the slot using a caulking chisel - first the upper part is pushed, and then the lower. A road worker is used to level the seam;

During caulking of cracks, the frame rises a little, and therefore it is necessary to hammer in each crack along the entire perimeter and only then move on to the next level, otherwise the bathhouse may “skew”;
If the bathhouse already has a stove and chimney, the pipe must be freed so that the structure that rises as a result of caulking does not damage the masonry.
To do this, it is enough to free up the space around the bathhouse pipe by a few centimeters;

Bottom line

Correct selection of material and our useful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulties. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.

Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for your home to last a long time, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventative repairs. This is especially true for log buildings. One of the key points you need to know is how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the log sealing process as efficiently as possible, you need to acquire not only good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:

Caulk. This is a small device that appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can quickly cover large areas. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed when sealing corner joints. Skilled craftsmen use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft and as a result the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.

Moss

Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe the best way. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. He is good filter, which does not allow odors to pass through. Additional synthetic inclusions began to be added to modern material, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. Before caulking, it is treated with special compounds that repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.

Technology

The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.

After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, a roll of material is placed on the lunar recess and secured using a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. No need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
You should start from the outside and then move inside the building.
You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
We repeat the operation from the inside.
We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to just carefully tuck the material in without much effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams with sunny side, because The manufacturer usually advises avoiding direct sunlight until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after application natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants:

Development of the construction industry, emergence of new construction and finishing materials almost do not reduce the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such a significant drawback, or rather feature, as shrinkage and high deformability of wooden elements. For this reason, construction wooden house is always more time consuming - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you start finishing work.

But shrinkage leads not only to changes in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.

What is caulking

The process of caulking is to eliminate gaps between the elements of the log house thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from entering the house.

This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
thermal insulation of the house by eliminating cold bridges;
elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between window and door frames and log house;
giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
before starting finishing work.

Materials used for caulking a log house

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find a suitable material for insulating their home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

Natural insulation materials include:

tow;
hemp;
felt;
flax wool;
jute.

Artificial insulation materials include:

mineral wool;
foamed polyethylene;
foam;
sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

mineral wool good insulation, but she is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This is a much simpler and faster process than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.

Natural interventional insulation

Moss- This is the oldest and still quite effective insulation for log houses.

It has such necessary properties as:

excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing the moss (it must be cleared of soil residues and dried) and the rather complex process of caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

Felt– non-woven material made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. It requires pre-treatment with protective compounds, as it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or laminated veneer lumber to insulate the house. The material does not have a high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its dimensions. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. In addition to all these positive properties, jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day for insulation wooden walls two main technologies are used.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger ones the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

Tools for work:

caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
wooden mallet or rubber mallet with a wide head.

Caulks have steel blade, which must be non-sharp and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

One of the main measures for insulating a bathhouse from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking involves filling the gaps between the crowns of a log house with environmentally friendly insulating materials. In this article we talk about how to caulk a log house yourself and what materials and tools are required for this.

Article
Video

Purpose of log caulk

After all the crowns of the bathhouse from the log house have been laid, inserted and the roof is covered, it is necessary to proceed to the process. Log houses have been insulated since ancient times, and this process has remained virtually unchanged to this day. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we'll talk about them a little later).

It is necessary to caulk a log house for the following reasons:

A well-insulated one will require less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps form in the bath structure that will need to be filled
If heat escapes from the bathhouse, condensation will form outside the log house, which will lead to rotting of the log house.
Heating a well-insulated bath will require less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity)

As you can see, caulking a log house is a very serious and at the same time useful undertaking.

When is it necessary to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year for a log building to shrink. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the time to caulk a log house.

The first caulking of the log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and covering the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bathhouse has partially settled (in about a year). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, after a year there will be room for another insulation of the bathhouse in the inter-crown cracks.

Well, the last caulking of the log house should be carried out at the moment when the bathhouse is completely seated, no later than in 5 years.

We draw your attention to the fact that caulking of a log house with your own hands must be carried out both with outside baths, and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bathhouse can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it is better not to fix it with the roof, so that it does not become deformed during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

Today, to caulk a log house with your own hands, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and flax wool. Let's briefly consider the advantages of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most specialists prefer more modern materials.

The advantages of moss are that it is a 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and is highly durable.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Moss for caulking should not be too dry, but at the same time it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for caulking log houses, but this material is not recommended. Firstly, caulking a log house with tow is a very labor-intensive process. Secondly, tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can begin to rot, thereby damaging the crowns of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out rotten tow from the inter-crown cracks, especially since re-caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a delicacy for moths.

Jute is an environmentally friendly material of plant origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because... this material has the following advantages:

The material has high strength
Jute practically does not absorb water, which means it does not rot.
Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that construction stores often offer an analogue instead of jute - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because... this material has a proportion of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

Caulking of a log house with jute is carried out during the construction of a log structure. The material is placed on top of the crowns and secured with a construction stapler.

Flax batting is also used for caulking log houses. This material consists of compacted flax dust, which is made in long strips. Linen wool, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

Sealant

Special sealants for caulking log houses are also actively gaining popularity. They are most often used together with jute. There are different types of sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or linen, this will make the thermal insulation of the bathhouse more effective.

Today, the following set of tools is used to caulk a log house with your own hands:

Stacked caulking
Crooked caulk (requires skill to operate, but is more effective)
Road worker (used together with caulk)
Breaking caulking (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
Mallet (used for hammering caulk into cracks)

It is recommended to use soft caulking (for example, made of wood), because... they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but with a few insulations you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Do-it-yourself log caulking technology

The technology for caulking with your own hands is quite complicated, although you can’t tell it from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk it evenly and correctly.

You should know that no finishing activities should be carried out before caulking the log house, because... during lifting of the structure they will be immediately damaged.

Proper caulking of a log house involves insulating the inter-crown space in tiers (from lower to upper). First, we caulk the very bottom joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done along the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because The log structure may become noticeably warped.

It should be noted that experienced builders can straighten a skewed frame using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because These nodes need this the most (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: “stretch” and “set”. The first method is used if the gaps between the rims are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide gaps. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

To caulk a log house "expanded" you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire crack. First, you need to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer it in with a breaking or type-setting caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulation material, but it insulates a log bathhouse better. The caulking technology proceeds differently: a strand with a thickness of at least 15 mm is prepared. Next, you need to gather the strands into the loops and hammer each loop into the gap one by one (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer the strand using a breaking caulk, tamping the material from above and then from below. After the strand is completely hammered into the cracks, it is recommended to make a final compaction using a road builder.

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