How to properly sheathe the outside of a frame house with OSB? How to cover walls with OSB panels with your own hands. How OSB is attached to the frame.

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OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern construction material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and has found wide application in the construction of frame houses and finishing of buildings and structures. OSB boards are used to cover interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction when the plate protrudes construction material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a façade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will look at the question: how to attach OSB boards to the wall from the outside.

At installation of OSB slabs to external walls, lathing are used for the following purposes:

leveling the wall plane;
creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB board;
preventing slab deformation caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over insulation using lathing

Fastening the slab to the wall is carried out using lathing, which is made from a wooden block, or metal profile. The technologies for installing OSB boards on a wall with wooden sheathing and sheathing made of metal profiles are not fundamentally different. When choosing a block, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed block of 40-50 mm, then it will not twist or move after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, use special metal plates(suspensions). Before attaching the hangers, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which will subsequently ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to secure the sheathing.
Suspensions are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to secure the sheathing over the insulation.

After this, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the sheathing is installed.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed on the outside of the building, as it prevents the ingress of humid air into the insulation from the inside of the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely escape outside.

Wall with sheathing. Insulation is laid between the sheathing and the wall.

After securing the sheathing, you can begin installing the OSB boards. For wall cladding, a slab with a thickness of 9 to 12 mm is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB slabs are attached to the wooden beam sheathing with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. For metal profile sheathing - use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the sheathing weighs above the insulation and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the insulation is achieved. In addition, between the sheathing beams there is an air gap through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also improves its performance. More detailed information about ventilated facade technology is in the article:.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses, recommendations for choosing sheets are the same as for covering previously constructed walls. The only difference is when the sheets act as a rigidity element. In this case, their thickness must be at least 12 mm. The recommended thickness is usually 15-18 mm.

When installing walls with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: attaching OSB sheets to the frame through the sheathing and attaching OSB sheets directly to the frame without sheathing. Let's look at both.

How to attach walls to a frame using sheathing

When with inside strong slabs are attached to the walls to the frame, ensuring good rigidity of the wall structure, then a sheathing can be made on the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The sheathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces the deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the frame posts. A wind and waterproofing membrane is attached over the studs and insulation, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the sheathing and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on wooden frame with sheathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left unfinished; you can paint them, plaster them, or attach almost any façade material to them.

When fastening OSB boards without using sheathing, maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to attach the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB board, then install the sheathing to create a ventilation gap and install facade material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are attached to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB on the outside of a house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformation of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

Installation of OSB on the walls of a frame house without sheathing

Among the methods of providing rigidity to the frame, three methods are considered optimal, which can be combined with each other:

Fastening sheet materials to frame posts inside the house;

Jib joints between frame posts;

Fastening sheet materials to frame posts outside the house.

When OSB sheets are mounted to the frame posts outside the house, the sheathing between the sheets and the frame posts leads to a reduction in rigidity by almost half. Therefore, to ensure maximum structural strength, this sheathing is excluded from it. Without the sheathing, the ventilation gap disappears, so it is recommended to attach such sheathing on top of OSB sheets. A waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the OSB, then a lathing, and on top any suitable façade material: siding, corrugated board, wood, façade panels and so on.

Fastening technology OSB sheets to a wooden frame without using sheathing.

The option described above is preferable. But there are other ways. When it is necessary for OSB sheets attached to the racks to act as a facade, and nothing is mounted on top of them, then a ventilation gap can be created between the frame racks. For this purpose, the space between the frame posts is not completely filled with insulation. Leave 2-3 cm for a ventilation gap between the insulation and the OSB sheets. The waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the frame using slats. So that these slats remain between the racks - on two sides to each rack.

A compromise option is to use oblique sheathing. It is laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This helps to increase rigidity compared to straight sheathing. To increase rigidity, boards 25 mm thick are better suited for such sheathing. The board is attached to each frame post with two nails. Due to the increased consumption of materials and the complexity of the work, this method is used extremely rarely, so there is no statistical information about performance characteristics built houses.

Oblique sheathing.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the option with a wooden frame. When attaching slabs directly to metal frame use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for installing OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the cladding structure.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
A 10 mm gap is required between the bottom slab and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
The slabs cannot be joined closely to each other; a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the slab can expand freely due to changes in humidity.
All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can come to furniture workshop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a sawing machine evenly and precisely to size.

Which side to mount OSB sheets

All sides of OSB sheets do not differ in composition. But there are differences in the surfaces. Often one side is smooth and the other is rough. In this case, when installing slabs on walls on the outside of a building, it is better to mount the sheets with the smooth side out. With this orientation, rainwater will not accumulate in such quantities in the uneven areas of the slab. Water helps accelerate the destruction of the slab. Protecting sheets from water penetration helps to increase their durability.

When installing slabs on the roof under the roof, in turn, it is recommended to place OSB sheets with the rough side up so that they are not slippery to walk on during roof installation work.

When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.

In most cases of installation of OSB sheets outside the house, a ventilation gap is provided. Air moves along it, which enters from the bottom of the wall from the surrounding space and exits from above back into the atmosphere. Blind sealing of ventilation gaps on any side is not acceptable. Otherwise, instead of a ventilation gap, you get a closed air cavity.

Wasps, mice, and small birds can enter the ventilation gap and build nests there, thereby violating the characteristics of the wall. Therefore, it is recommended to provide protection at the stage of its construction or repair.

There are several options for protecting the wall from rodents, birds and insects, let's look at them.

Protection with metal mesh and sheet metal with small holes. It is better to use stainless steel, which will not corrode. Mesh or strips of metal are attached to the bottom and top of the wall behind the OSB sheets so that they do not affect the appearance of the house.

Painting mesh. Differs from the previous version in low price and less strength.

Perforated facade material at the bottom and top of the wall. For example, in the case of siding, these are perforated soffits.

Grilles or meshes are mounted at the inlet and outlet of ventilation gaps.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

What to do if the room has an old wooden floor that is impractical to paint or varnish? If the boards are wobbly and? You can resort to a labor-intensive and expensive method - tearing off the old coating, making a new one, or laying fresh ones. But there is another, more practical, faster and cheaper solution - laying OSB on a wooden floor.

This method has its own nuances, which are taken into account during OSB installation. Looking ahead, it is worth saying that the basis of the technology is proper preparation grounds. Below is detailed guide, following which will allow you to achieve excellent result in terms of leveling the surface of the old wooden floor and subsequent installation of decorative coverings: laminate, linoleum, etc.

Tools and materials for work

The list of necessary devices is minimal:

nail crowbar;
hammer;
perforator, drill, drill bits;
screwdriver;
a large bubble or laser level (with a second tool it will be more convenient to identify irregularities).

Necessary materials:

OSB board;
fasteners – hardened self-tapping screws with a length of at least 45 mm;
washers for screws (their presence is desirable, but not required).

When choosing this method of “reanimating” old wooden floors, you need to have an idea about the material used for these purposes in order to choose it correctly. The result of the alignment directly depends on this.

Characteristics of OSB boards

OSB is a construction analogue of chipboard. These slabs are more durable and are perfectly adapted for finishing. The material appeared on the market relatively recently. OSB is made from wood chips, which are laid in 3 layers. They are glued together with special resin-based compounds. In this case, the layer in the middle is laid perpendicular to the other 2. Due to this, the resistance of the material to loads is formed.

When marked, this parameter is indicated by a number. The lower the value, the lower the resistance to loads and damaging factors such as humidity. For example, index 2 means that the OSB board is not moisture resistant and cannot withstand intense long-term loads. And the number 4 indicates that the product can be used as a ceiling that will not collapse even when exposed to moisture.

The material for laying on the floor is selected based on the mentioned designations in order to form a smooth rough surface. You should not skimp on the quality of the OSB board. This may result in the need to lay an additional layer, which is expensive and inconvenient. The best option– OSB 3 board.

The question often arises: “Do I need a substrate for OSB?” From a practical point of view, no. Wood itself is an excellent thermal insulation material, and if you consider that it is laid on wooden boards, then no backing is needed. But sometimes it is still used to achieve the maximum possible soundproofing effect.

Preparing the base

Executed correctly preparatory stage- this is more than half the success of floor leveling work. First, a thorough investigation is carried out wooden surface. This is done using a bubble or laser level. All protruding and loose parts are marked, this will make it easier to strengthen them.

The next step is to securely fix the boards. Some experts recommend doing this using dowels, but a more reliable option would be to pull loose elements with self-tapping screws to the joists. The old coating must be secured as securely as possible. To do this, you can use several fasteners in one area. The ideal result is when the “walking” floor fragments are recessed or are level with the rest.

The gap between the wall and the slabs must be at least 10 mm;
The plates should not be adjacent to each other. The minimum gap between them is 3 mm.

Attention! The slots are needed to avoid the slabs “creeping” on top of each other and deformation of the decorative floor covering. This occurs due to the expansion of the material due to changes in humidity.

Laying process

After completing all the preparatory work, all that remains is to tighten the slabs to the old one with self-tapping screws wooden covering and fill out construction foam gap between OSB and wall. After the foam has dried, it is trimmed flush with the flooring.

The slabs are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter every 20–30 cm, but this distance can be reduced. Some experts recommend preparing the holes first, but using a screwdriver can quickly and efficiently tighten screws without pre-drilling.

The subfloor is quick, high quality and inexpensive - this is exactly the combination that most builders and their clients are trying to achieve. The simplest thing is something like this flooring formed from OSB boards. Laying technology depends on the type of base and additional requirements requirements for the finished floor.

OSB: composition and characteristics

OSB or OSB are oriented strand boards. In transliteration, OSP is often called OSB, but this is not entirely correct, since it contradicts the decoding, but is used everywhere.

The slabs are a composite of large wood chips and polymer binders. They are formed from several layers located perpendicular to each other. This design ensures the resistance of the sheets to twisting deformations and makes them resistant to tearing and delamination.

In terms of production technology, OSB is identical to chipboard with the difference that the first uses finely planed wood chips up to 4 mm thick and up to 25 cm long, while the second uses fine sawdust. Thermosetting resins (urea-formaldehyde, melamine, etc.) are added to the raw materials as binders. Typical sizes slabs:

height 2440 mm,
width - 1220 mm,
thickness – 6-38 mm

OSB is available in 4 varieties:

OSB-1 – thin boards used for the production of packaging, furniture blanks, construction of temporary structures, etc.
OSB-2 is a standard sheet that can be used in dry, ventilated areas. Application - for internal rough work (flooring, leveling walls, ceilings, forming utility boxes, etc.).
OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant material containing paraffin additives. Has increased resistance to high humidity, recommended for use both indoors and outdoors finishing works.
Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. When used in rooms such as bathrooms, bathhouses and others, it is recommended to use coating or floor waterproofing materials.
OSB-4 – durable high-density boards. This is the material for forming load-bearing structures.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is better or worse. It all depends on the destination. Leveling the base for laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles and other types of finishing materials is carried out with OSB-3 sheets. Their advantages are that they perfectly withstand heavy loads (furniture, equipment) even when installed on joists, are resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, are easy to process, and installation can be done even by an inexperienced beginner.

In addition to the above advantages, OSB is a heat-insulating material with a slight noise-reducing effect. That's why vinyl and carpet manufacturers often strongly recommend laying a warm, hardwood underlay over a concrete floor first, followed by a final finish.

The thickness of the slabs used depends on the installation method. For a flat concrete base with a difference of no more than 2-4 mm for every 2 meters of area, it is reasonable to use panels of 10-12 mm. When laying a floor on joists with your own hands, installation of OSB with a cross-section of 18 mm or more is justified. Experts recommend laying sheets of 10-12 mm in 2 layers with overlapping seams. The result is a multi-layered “substrate” that guarantees increased strength and durability of the base.

We will consider OSB installation technology below.

Laying OSB on a wooden floor

We especially note that you cannot use semi-dry cement-sand screed on wooden floors, lay gypsum fiber board, asbestos-cement boards and other similar materials.

The fact is that the coefficients of thermal expansion and moisture absorption of these construction materials do not correspond to those of wood. There is a high risk that the base may begin to rot under the leveling layer, mold, etc.

To install OSB on a wooden floor, you will need the following tools:

electric planer for removing excessively protruding parts;
hammer or screwdriver;
electric drill;
hydraulic level;
nails or screws for wood;
tape measure and construction pencil;
hacksaw or jigsaw;

From building materials, you will additionally need a lath to form a lag 4x5cm, 3x4 cm, insulation (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay) or soundproofing material, as well as antiseptic and putty compounds for filling holes and potholes in the base.

Installation begins with preparing the wooden floor. The surface must be carefully inspected, protruding parts must be cut off, and holes and other defects must be filled with quick-drying repair compounds. This can be a special wood putty, blitz cement, or simply sawdust mixed with PVA glue.

Before laying OSB, skirting boards, nails and other irregularities are first removed from the subfloor

To protect against mold and bugs, the base must be covered with several layers of fire-retardant impregnation or primer with antiseptic additives. Ideally, you can also varnish it, but rarely does this happen. Complete drying time is at least 3 days.

The next stage is the frame. The joists also require protection, so the beams are treated with bioprotective compounds, cut to the size of the room and mounted to the floor with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-60 cm parallel to each other. The evenness is checked using a hydraulic level; thin dies can be placed under the slats for adjustment. Heat-insulating or noise-reducing material is placed in the gaps.

The final stage of the subfloor is attaching the OSB boards to the frame with your own hands using self-tapping screws or nails. The sheets are marked, appropriate cutting is carried out if necessary, and tightly fixed to the joists.

It is imperative to leave thermal compensation gaps between the wall and OSB sheets 2-5 mm wide. It is not necessary to leave a distance between adjacent slabs.

After finishing the work, you need to check the resulting base with a level. If there are uneven spots at the joints, they can be smoothed out with a grinder or simply sandpaper. Additionally, to ventilate the “pie”, it is recommended to drill several holes near the walls with a drill.

If you lay OSB on a wooden base without joists, then the floor should be fairly level, dry and durable. In this case, you can only get by with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, and the leveling can be done in a day. The coating will be of adequate quality if the materials are fastened to each other not only around the perimeter, but also crosswise over the entire area of the sheet.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

A subfloor made of oriented strand boards can only be formed on dry, “ripened” concrete with a moisture content of no more than 6%. But even in this case, it is recommended to use a waterproofing film, membrane or coating composition. If you install OSB without this protection, then mold, fungi, and areas of rot may appear on the base due to excess moisture.

To lay sheets with your own hands directly on a concrete base, it is recommended to use panels 10-16 mm thick. Such leveling is allowed with differences of up to 2 mm per 2 m 2. This is enough to make the subfloor warm and smooth. Installation begins with laying the waterproofing substrate. The joints are fixed with adhesive tape. OSB sheets are placed on top and tightly secured with self-tapping screws. There should be a gap of 2-3 mm between the wall and the edge of the subfloor.

If installation is carried out on logs, then beams are first fixed on top of the film, heat or sound insulating material is installed in the gaps, then everything is covered with OSB sheets on top. Foam plastic, EPS and other types of insulation can be used as a thermal insulator.

To make a high-quality subfloor on joists or on a foundation, do not forget to constantly check the work done with a hydraulic level. This will minimize differences and correct errors in a timely manner.

Installation of OSB on walls is carried out at the final stage of building construction. Depending on the purpose of the building, cladding is carried out on internal and external surfaces. When carrying out repairs, OSB boards can be used to level the floor. In addition, this sheet material Great for creating a continuous foundation for laying roofing on the roof. Today, oriented strand boards are one of the most popular materials in private and commercial construction.

Features of OSB boards

This building material appeared relatively recently, thanks to inventions in the field of chemistry. OSB boards are glued and compressed wood chips. A synthetic polymer resin is used as a binder. The chips are laid in layers in different directions. During pressing, the wood is impregnated with an adhesive composition. The result is products that are highly durable and resistant to moisture. Various additives in the adhesive composition allow the use of OSB even outdoors.

Based on technical characteristics, products are divided into classes:

Standard. Used for the manufacture of furniture and interior cladding of rooms with normal humidity.
Reinforced. The thickness of the slabs allows them to be used to create partitions, walls, ceilings and floors.
Moisture resistant. This material is used for finishing rooms with high humidity (swimming pools, showers, bathrooms).
Highly durable and moisture resistant. In terms of strength, slabs of this class are not inferior to laminated veneer lumber. They are used to create load-bearing structures that experience increased load.

Finished products can have a raw, sanded, laminated or varnished surface. For creating monolithic surfaces The plates are equipped with locks on the ends. The thickness of OSB varies between 8-26 mm.

Advantages of oriented strand boards:

High strength, which is achieved using composite material. Partitions made from OSB are more reliable than those made from plasterboard and foam blocks. They can withstand heavy shock loads.
Ecological cleanliness. Components that are safe for humans and environment. No harmful fumes are released even at high temperatures.
Presentable appearance. The adhesive composition emphasizes the natural beauty of wood. Large shavings create a beautiful and interesting pattern.
Resistant to rot, mold, insects and rodents, thanks to factory impregnation with an antiseptic.
Water resistance. The products can withstand prolonged exposure to a humid environment without any consequences.
Flexibility. This quality allows the slabs, without cracking or breaking, to change their shape when the house deforms.
Durability. Since OSB is resistant to external factors, its service life can be 50 years or more.
Affordable price. Wood waste and inexpensive chemical products are used in production.

A definite disadvantage of OSB is its complete airtightness. This property must be taken into account during construction. A well-equipped ventilation system will help solve this issue.

Preparatory activities

OSB is fixed to a frame made of timber or steel profile. To improve the insulating qualities of the finish, it is recommended to use insulation. Before you start covering the premises, you need to do a little preparatory work. First of all, you need to prepare the tool.

In order to install OSB, you will need:

perforator;
level;
metal scissors;
jigsaw;
screwdriver;
steel profile and hangers;
metal screws;
plastic dowels;
acrylic sealant;
antiseptic solution;
oriented strand boards 8-10 mm thick;
basalt wool;
paint brush;
rubber spatula.

It is worth thinking in advance about the topcoat of oriented strand boards. For this you can use varnish, acrylic paint or washable wallpaper on any basis. Surface gluing is allowed ceramic tiles, fabric or leather.

Before starting work, it is necessary to treat the walls with an antiseptic. After plating, the resulting cavity must have a healthy microclimate.

OSB installation on walls

In order to cover the walls with this unique material, no special skill is required. It's enough just to be attentive.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

A diagram of the location of the OSB on the surface is made. Plates can be mounted in any orientation. Cutting is carried out in such a way that there is less waste.
Markings are made on the walls for attaching the frame. It is advisable to choose a step between vertical posts 58 cm. The width of the insulation is 60 cm. It will fit well between the posts without additional fixation.
Holes are drilled into which plastic dowels are inserted.
The frame is assembled using steel hangers, guides and supporting profiles. Its verticality and strength are checked.
OSB boards are sawn into blanks. They are screwed to the frame. The recommended distance between screws is 15 cm. The edges of the slabs must be on the supporting profile. This will help avoid cracks during finishing.
The seams between the plates are sealed with acrylic sealant. For this purpose it is used mounting gun and a rubber spatula. Chips and gouges above the screws are repaired with wood putty.
The surface is ground and polished with sandpaper.

How to sheathe frame house outside

Sheathing gives the building additional strength

An example of exterior cladding of a frame house

Material selection

There are several types of materials that more or less meet these requirements: moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, OSB, edged boards, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.

Application of OSB in frame construction

OSB panels are rightfully one of the most popular materials when arranging frame structures. They consist of layers of glued wood shavings and wood chips, with the fibers located longitudinally in the outer layers and transversely in the inside. Synthetic resins and wax are used to hold the chips together, giving the finished boards water-repellent properties.

Standard production involves the production of these slabs in several categories:

OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical loads;
OSB-2 is used when installing load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.

Exterior finishing of a frame house with OSB boards

Advantages of OSB:

Flaws:

flammability;

OSB (OSB) plate

Main characteristics

Cement particle boards

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). A standard slab has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large ones. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, and long service life. The slabs are widely used in private and industrial construction, for indoor and outdoor work.

Sheathing a house with DSP boards

House lined with cement bonded particle board (CSB)

Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
Fire safety.

Flaws:

high price.

Wall cladding with cement bonded particle board

Specifications

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

Windproof board "Beltermo"

Thermal insulation and windproof boards ISOPLAAT

Advantages:

light weight;
low thermal conductivity;
ease of installation;
the material does not delaminate or crumble;
high vapor permeability;

Covering with ISOPLAAT boards and wooden lining

Flaws:

high price;

Jib device

Specifications

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

Moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheet

GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from plasterboard in its greater density, uniformity, and absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, sound insulation properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, gypsum plasterboard is also several times higher than gypsum boards.

Installation of GVL produced by frame and frameless methods. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the load-bearing posts using self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite convenient to install. This cladding serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.

Sheathing with GVL sheets

Advantages:

low hygroscopicity;
vapor permeability;
fire safety;

Flaws:

heavy weight.

Specifications

Plywood

Exterior finishing of a frame house with plywood sheets

The use of plywood in frame construction

Plywood grades and markings

Advantages:

moisture resistance;
wear resistance;
ease of processing and installation;
frost resistance.

Flaws:

flammability;

Specifications

Edged board

Facade cladding with inch boards

Sheathing a frame house with boards horizontally

Advantages:

Flaws:

flammability of the material;

Edged board

Exterior cladding technology

Construction of a frame house

Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without sheathing. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and the OSB, in the second - on top of the sheathing. The option with lathing is used in cases where OSB acts as a basis for plastering, painting or tiling; the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise there are no significant differences.

Step 1. Start covering from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the frame posts so that the bottom edge completely covers the bottom frame of the house. Be sure to check the horizontal level. It is also recommended to install the slab itself horizontally rather than vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. To fasten the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. It is necessary to retreat about 10 mm from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Nail pitch

Step 2.

Vertical and horizontal arrangement of OSB sheets on the house frame

Step 3.

Plate joint

Step 4.

Fastening sheets under rafters

Gable trim

Beginning of roof sheathing with ondulin over sheathing and membrane

Completed roof finishing

Continuation of installation of OSB panels on the facade

Covered veranda

Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house finished with OSB boards

Gallery 2. Sheathing a two-story frame house with OSB boards. Example

Step 5.

Step 6. Next, fill the lathing slats under finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The slats must first be treated with a protective compound and dried. After this, you can begin installing siding, lining or other decorative covering for the house.

On a note! If you plan to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, accordingly, is installed only on the inside of the house.

With this method of cladding, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls in the cells of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film. On top of the vapor barrier, slabs for interior decoration are sewn, for example, plasterboard or the same OSB.

Insulation and vapor barrier from the inside

Internal wall cladding with plasterboard

Decorative finishing inside

Decorative finishing on the outside. Coloring

Frame house covered with OSB boards several seasons after construction

An example of a ventilation façade design over OSB sheathing

Video - How to sheathe the outside of a frame house

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and has found wide application in the construction of frame houses and the finishing of buildings and structures. OSB boards are used to cover interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction, when the board acts as a structural material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will look at the question: how to attach OSB boards to the wall from the outside.

For cladding external walls, it is necessary to use OSB-3 boards, specially made for environments with high humidity. You can find out how different types of OSB sheets differ on the page: OSB sheets, their types, characteristics, sizes.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, sheathing is used for the following purposes:

leveling the wall plane;
creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB board;
preventing slab deformation caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over insulation using lathing

The slab is fastened to the wall using lathing, which is made from a wooden block or metal profile. The technologies for installing OSB boards on a wall with wooden sheathing and sheathing made of metal profiles are not fundamentally different. When choosing a block, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed block of 40-50 mm, then it will not twist or move after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (hangers) are used. Before attaching the hangers, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which will subsequently ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to fasten the sheathing. The hangers are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to secure the sheathing over the insulation.

After this, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the sheathing is installed.

It should be taken into account that a vapor barrier is not needed on the outside of the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely escape outside.

Wall with sheathing. Insulation is laid between the sheathing and the wall.

With this installation, the sheathing weighs above the insulation and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the insulation is achieved. In addition, between the beams of the sheathing there is an air gap through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also improves its characteristics. More detailed information about ventilated facade technology can be found in the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the sheathing and attaching OSB sheets directly to the frame without sheathing. Let's consider the case of fastening OSB boards using sheathing.

When strong slabs are attached to the frame on the inside of the wall, ensuring good rigidity of the wall structure, then a sheathing can be made on the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The sheathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces the deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with sheathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left unfinished; you can paint them, plaster them, or attach almost any façade material to them.

Technology OSB fastenings sheets to a wooden frame without using sheathing.

For example, when building a frame house according to Finnish technology“Platform” there is no sheathing between the frame and the OSB foxes. You can find out more about this technology in the article: construction of a frame house using the “Platform” technology.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the option with a wooden frame. When attaching slabs directly to a metal frame, use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for installing OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there are general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
A 10 mm gap is required between the bottom slab and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
The slabs cannot be joined closely to each other; a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the slab can expand freely due to changes in humidity.
All door and window openings are cut out with a jigsaw or a circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can take ready-made sizes and OSB sheets to a furniture shop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a format-cutting machine evenly and precisely to size .

Which side to mount OSB sheets

When installing slabs on the roof under the roof, in turn, it is recommended to place OSB sheets with the rough side up so that they are not slippery to walk on during roof installation work.

When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.

Read the contents of the article! Finishing the outside of a house with OSB: methods for finishing OSB sheets: painting, plastering, fake diamond, siding.

OSB boards or otherwise OSB sheets are widely used for the construction of walls in houses, in particular in frame construction. Therefore, the issue of their external decoration is very relevant today. Moreover, not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also in terms of protecting the material from negative impact external factors (high humidity, sudden temperature changes, solar radiation and others).

In this article we will look at the following question: OSB finishing outside Houses.

Finishing OSB outside Finishing walls from OSB boards outside the house: how to finish OSB walls

There are a lot in various ways finishing walls from OSB sheets outside the house. All of them take into account the features of OSB boards, which are subject to the same deformations as wood.

Among the main methods used for external finishing of walls made of OSB sheets are the following:

Painting a house made of OSB

Painting is the simplest and most common option, which does not require a lot of time and money. Water-based or oil-based wood paints are used for exterior work. In order for the coating to adhere well, it is important to properly prepare the surface for painting. First of all, it is recommended to seal interpanel seams acrylic sealant, and then thoroughly clean and prime the entire surface of the slabs. The paint is applied in several layers. Each of them must be given time to dry thoroughly before applying the next layer.

Painting OSB boards

To paint OSB boards, you can use a brush or roller.

Applying plaster to pox boards

Plaster allows you to extend the life of the slab and additionally protects it from fire. OSB boards can change their geometric dimensions over wide ranges due to changes in humidity and ambient temperature. If you apply plaster directly to the OSB board, it will soon become covered with cracks and peel off from the base. Therefore, two main technologies are used: the use of an intermediate layer and layer-by-layer application of plaster.

Plastering OSB boards

Expanded polystyrene or glassine can be used as an intermediate layer. Expanded polystyrene has good moisture insulation and further improves the thermal insulation properties of the wall. Glassine or bitumen cardboard has a low price.

To prepare the base, sealant is applied to the joints between the sheets. The sheets themselves are primed. After this, an intermediate layer in the form of polystyrene foam or glassine is glued. A reinforcing mesh is attached on top of this layer and a layer of plaster is applied.

When applying plaster directly to OSB sheets, the process is divided into several stages. After preparing the base, as in the previous version, proceed to the first stage. During which the first layer of plaster is applied, a reinforcing mesh is embedded in it. After drying, apply another layer. After this, a leveling layer is applied.

The option without an intermediate layer is less reliable and after 2-3 years the plaster may begin to peel off, so it is usually recommended to use an intermediate layer.

Installation of decorative stone on osb boards

Artificial stone is one of the most complex and expensive finishing methods. However, the excellent appearance of the finished facade and the durability of such a coating will certainly pay for itself over time. Stages of work:

Before starting work, the seams of OSB boards are filled with frost-resistant sealant, and the boards are primed.
Polystyrene foam is glued on top.
Then it must be filled with frost-resistant putty.
Then apply two layers of glue. Place the reinforcing mesh in the first one.
Place on the second layer decorative rock.

Finishing OSB boards with decorative stone

Sometimes decorative stone is glued without an intermediate layer in the form of polystyrene foam. This option is less reliable and after 2-3 years the coating begins to peel off.

Fastening siding to OSB boards

Siding is a universal finishing method that can be used for any facade. The material has an affordable price and excellent appearance. Provided that OSB board has a flat surface, fastening the sheathing is optional. At the same time, so that during operation the material does not swell from the condensation formed, it is important not to forget to install a windproof, waterproof membrane between the slabs and the siding.

Finishing OSB boards with sidingDecorative facade panels

Decorative facade panels have a wide range of modifications and are manufactured using various materials: wood, metal, plastic, glass. The technology for installing such panels depends on the panels themselves. Most often used for fastening are: dowel fasteners, brackets and metal profiles.

Installation decorative panels on the walls of a house made of OSB

Each of the listed methods has its advantages and disadvantages. It doesn't matter which one you choose. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the recommendations of specialists and the correct technology.

Methods for finishing osb outside Dacha

Why do you need cladding for a frame house, types of material used? Types of finishing and its features. Sheathing installation technology and its insulation.

After creation wooden house The thought arises about cladding a frame house. How to do it correctly and what is needed for this. Below we describe how to cover a frame house with wood boards, siding and OSB boards. What are the requirements for materials? external cladding. How the material is selected. Are they effective to use? cement bonded particle boards, fibreboards. Is it beneficial to use gypsum fiber sheets, plywood and edged boards?

Exterior house cladding technology, how to cladding a frame house cheaply. Features of installation of a ventilated facade. Is finishing of a frame house really necessary? What types of finishing are there? Why do you need a suspended structure, features of using wet installation and facade bricks. Why are thermal panels with clinker tiles needed? Use of stone and block houses.

How to properly prepare the sheathing surface for painting. Correct finishing of window openings. Proper insulation of the sheathing.

Covering a frame house with wood planks

After the final construction of the frame house, installation of windows and doors, as well as installation of insulation on the walls, it’s time to move on to the next stage - surface cladding frame structure. At this stage, every master faces the question: what materials to use? You can use lining, siding, natural wood, ventilated facades or vinyl panels.

The best option in terms of appearance, price, durability and resistance is the use of siding and wood panels.

Before cladding the outside of a frame house, you need to do preparatory work.

First of all, you need to prepare the lining with a maximum permissible humidity within 10-15%.

If the humidity is higher, after installing the panels, the wood will begin to shrink, which will lead to deformation, displacement of the boards and the formation of numerous cracks.
It is recommended to carry out the cladding of a frame house in late summer or early autumn - at this time the action sunlight not as intense as in June or July.

Thus, it is necessary to purchase wooden boards several months before the work, approximately in May-June. This is necessary for sufficient drying of the wood, which lasts at least six to eight weeks.

After drying and preparing the materials, you can begin sheathing. Work is carried out from the bottom up. The second panel is positioned with the groove up, while the tenon points down to secure it with the starting board.

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Filimonov Evgeniy

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The boards must be laid strictly horizontally - a building level must be used to check the position.

The second board and subsequent ones are assigned to it in the following way: The tenon is inserted into the groove, after which several blows are applied to the top board with a mallet to fix it. The blows must be applied carefully so that the walls of the grooves are not deformed. Along the edges of the panel, at a distance of 10 mm, the board should be secured with two nails.

The entire panel must be nailed along its length, with a pitch of 500 mm.
After the frame house is covered with wooden panels, external corners in the vertical direction it is necessary to fasten two boards, overlapping each other. In the same way, platbands are installed on window and door openings.
The outer cladding of a frame house can be carried out both horizontally and vertically.
After installing the wood panels, you can begin painting. Before this, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls so that in the future they will not be rough or uneven. For this, a grinding machine with installed abrasive size 25-120 is used. Alternatively, an abrasive with an index of 40 can be used.

If painting is carried out oil paint, then before applying it you need to cover wooden panels two layers of drying oil. Only after this can the surface be painted using a roller, spray gun or wide brush.

Covering a frame house with siding

Siding panels have special perforated edges with slots through which they are attached to the surface using nails or self-tapping screws. There is a hole on the bottom of the siding panel to drain condensate.

The master will need the following tools:

Connecting strips
Plastic siding
Building level
Kiyanka
Corner

You can cover it with siding using connecting strips, but to save money you can make an overlap connection without using strips.

Initially, preparatory work is carried out. Siding can be attached in several ways: either on aluminum profiles, or directly on the surface of the walls.

Alternatively, instead of aluminum profiles, you can use regular ones wooden blocks, attached to the surface of the walls. This method of saving will allow you to save up to 30% of the funds that could be spent on cladding with aluminum frames.

After laying the wooden blocks (or installing the aluminum frame), sheathing can be carried out. On bottom corner The starting strip is installed on the sheathing (at the same time it is checked with a level for horizontal position).

Once the panel is level, you can attach it to the studs using nails or self-tapping screws. The installation of the panels is carried out as follows: one of the ends of the product is inserted into the groove of the corner, after which the profile tenon is inserted into the groove of the starting strip.

This type of connection is called a “lock” - if all actions were carried out correctly, the technician will hear a characteristic click, indicating the success of the connection.

The perforated edge of the siding panel has slots that are designed to secure the panel to the wall surface using screws or nails. After successful fastening, you can install the second panel overlapping the first.

The outer cladding of the house with siding is carried out from the bottom up: first, they are installed around the perimeter starting bars, then the second panels are mounted, the third, etc.

Sheathing a frame house with OSB boards

OSB boards can also be used for cladding a frame house.

Oriented strand boards are made from wood chips that are pressed together under pressure and coated with synthetic resins. The main material of OSB boards is pine or spruce.

The slabs are fastened directly to the walls; no additional frames or connections are required.

Sheathing is carried out as follows:

Work is carried out from the bottom up. After installing the first slab (and measuring the level), the second slab is installed. Must be kept small expansion joint(2-3 mm) so that in case of expansion building material no deformation occurred
Self-tapping screws are installed at the junction of the panels, which act as limiters. The length of the screws must be at least 50-55 mm.
Nails or screws are mounted at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the edge, a step of 15 cm is observed. Closer to the middle of the panel, the step can be increased to 30 cm

Sheathing using OSB boards is not only structural reliability and strength, but also significant savings on installation costs.

The main types of building materials for such structures are wooden beams, beams and OSB panels. It is the use of panels that provides a frame house with those characteristics that attract developers so much.

Houses built according to frame technology, have beneficial advantages. But, as reviews show, these advantages can only be achieved with full compliance with the technological process.

Final stage of work

In order to give a frame house a more aesthetic appearance, it is recommended to install finishing bar, and a plastic corner for the area between the pediment and the casing. It will help to correctly and securely fix the bottom strip, as well as hide the visible joint of the panels.

To ensure that the ends of the panels are not noticeable, you can use finishing window openings plastic corners instead wooden platbands. One side of the corner is fixed near the window opening, and the other side will hide the visible ends of the panels.

If you have already chosen required material and prepared the tools, you can proceed to the initial preparatory work. We wish you successful construction.

Requirements for external cladding materials

External wall cladding is one of the final stages of building a frame house. And here great value has a choice of materials: the microclimate in the rooms depends on this, mechanical strength walls, reliable protection from moisture and cold. In addition, the cladding serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as finishing coating and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.

The cladding gives the building frame a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, and the absence of shrinkage during operation. The walls must retain their original shape for years, regardless of environmental conditions. In addition, the sheathing must be resistant to moisture, sudden changes temperature, exposure to microorganisms.

Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its flexibility during processing. If you plan to sheathe it yourself, this aspect has great importance, because it depends on him how much effort and time the work will require. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time maintain density in cuts, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you don’t have to change the skin every 10-15 years.

Material selection

There are several types of materials that more or less meet these requirements:

moisture resistant plywood,
edged board,

They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.

Oriented Strand Boards (OSB)

OSB panels are rightfully one of the most popular materials when arranging frame structures. They consist of layers of laminated wood chips and chips, with the fibers in the outer layers arranged longitudinally and transversely in the inside.

Synthetic resins and wax are used to hold the chips together, giving the finished boards water-repellent properties.

Standard production involves the production of these boards in several categories: OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical loads; OSB-2 is used when installing load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity; OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.

In terms of the quality-functionality-price ratio, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. The slabs lend themselves well to grinding, cutting, drilling, and hold nails tightly even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such cladding can simultaneously serve as a decorative covering for walls; you just need to treat it with waterproof varnish or paint it.

Advantages of OSB:

the dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
the plates have elasticity and high strength, excellent resistance to vibrations, compression loads, and various deformations;
the material is resistant to weathering and temperature changes;
OSB is resistant to microorganisms; insects and rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

very low vapor permeability;
flammability;
content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).

Cement particle boards (CSP)

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). A standard slab has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large ones.

In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, and long service life. The slabs are widely used in private and industrial construction, for indoor and outdoor work.

When covering a frame, such slabs serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, because they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material can withstand 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without losing its characteristics; subsequently, the strength of the slabs decreases by about 10%. Among wood-based panel materials, DSP is a leader in terms of environmental and technical indicators.

Advantages:

very low hygroscopicity;
resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
DSPs are not damaged by insects and rodents;
the material does not emit toxic substances;
low thermal conductivity;
Fire safety.

Flaws:

mechanical processing of plates requires significant effort;
DSP is heavy compared to other materials;
When cutting and drilling slabs, a lot of fine dust is generated, so you need to work in a respirator;
high price.

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

The material is sheets of compressed shavings, usually coniferous. During the pressing process, the raw material is highly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesive compositions. Thanks to this, fiberboard is an environmentally friendly material, and therefore suitable for both outdoor use and finishing of residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the slabs from mold.

In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in heat and sound insulation properties.

Now on the construction market, fiberboards are represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For cladding a frame house, slabs with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used; thinner sheets are used indoors.

Advantages:

light weight;
low thermal conductivity;
ease of installation;
the material does not delaminate or crumble; high vapor permeability;
resistance to moisture and microorganisms;
absence harmful substances in the composition.

Flaws:

high price;
long stay without decorative finishing causes slight deformation of sheets;
The outer lining of fiberboard requires spacer jibs in the frame or rigid inner lining.

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

In terms of frost resistance, sound insulation properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, gypsum plasterboard is also several times higher than gypsum boards. GVL installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the load-bearing posts using self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite convenient to install. This cladding serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.

Advantages:

low hygroscopicity;
vapor permeability;
absence of toxic compounds;
fire safety;
high heat and sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

lack of ductility and fragility when bending the sheet;
heavy weight.

Plywood

Plywood is made by gluing together thin sheets of veneer from various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). The sheets are laid perpendicular to each other relative to the location of the fibers, which helps to increase the mechanical strength of the material and increases resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood with increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm; thinner material will not provide the required rigidity to the frame.

The grade of plywood is not particularly important for sheathing, and you can use the cheapest unsanded 4/4 grade boards.

From the outside, all defects will be hidden under curtain façade, so there is no point in overpaying. If the cladding technology is followed, the plywood covering will serve for years without losing its qualities.

Advantages:

high bending and compressive strength;
moisture resistance;
wear resistance;
ease of processing and installation;
frost resistance.

Flaws:

flammability;
content of formaldehyde resins;
tendency to chipping.

Edged board

Application edged boards for cladding is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, and easy to install. Boards can be filled not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although more often the sheathing is made continuous. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated façade.

In order for the cladding to be reliable, boards are chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm; they can be tongue-and-groove for greater joint density. You cannot use raw lumber: during the drying process, the wood will begin to warp, and deformations of the finishing coating may appear.

Advantages:

wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
boards are easy to process;
the work does not require large financial costs.

Flaws:

flammability of the material;
wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
Fitting and fastening elements takes a lot of time.

Exterior cladding technology

Installation of slabs on a finished frame is carried out using the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the sheathing, vapor barrier and wall insulation are carried out, and finishing can be done immediately upon completion of construction or after some time. Let's look at the installation technology using the example of covering a frame with OSB boards.

Step 1.

Start covering from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the frame posts so that the bottom edge completely covers the bottom frame of the house. Be sure to check the horizontal level. It is also recommended to install the slab itself horizontally rather than vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. To fasten the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. It is necessary to retreat about 10 mm from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

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Advice. To firmly fix the slabs, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads the sheathing will begin to tear away from the supporting base.

Step 2.

The next plate is installed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, set the horizontal level and screw the casing to the frame guides. The joints of the plates must be in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. Fix the remaining slabs in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.

Step 3.

The second row of sheathing must be installed with ligation of vertical seams. The same gap of 2-3 mm is maintained between the lower and upper plates. When sheathing openings, you should use whole sheets, not scraps - the fewer joints, the more airtight the sheathing. Cutouts in the sheets are made with a jigsaw or a circular saw, having previously made markings accurate to the millimeter. The edges of the cuts after installing the slab should perfectly coincide with the lines of the openings.

Step 4.

The top plates are installed so as to completely cover top harness. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed in the middle of the slab - under no circumstances should OSB be joined on this line.

Step 5.

After completing the installation, a windproof membrane is attached over the casing. Its sheets are stretched horizontally and fixed with staplers to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and taped. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging.

Step 6.

Next, the sheathing slats are stuffed for finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The slats must first be treated with a protective compound and dried. After this, you can begin installing siding, lining or other decorative covering for the house. On a note! If you plan to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, accordingly, is installed only on the inside of the house. With this method of cladding, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls in the cells of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film. On top of the vapor barrier, slabs for interior decoration are sewn, for example, plasterboard or the same OSB.

Characteristics of materials for external cladding

Now let's bring specifications popular wall materials. With their help, you can choose the most suitable option for external wall cladding.

Wood panels

When choosing wooden cladding, you need to pay attention to the following material characteristics:

Humidity – measured in %, it should be no more than 15%. The moisture content of wood determines its warping during use.
The type of wood determines the price and characteristics of water resistance and durability. The most expensive wood options are oak and larch. They are little susceptible to rotting, while oak is very strong and durable. The most popular types of construction wood are pine and spruce, which combine the natural resinousness of the wood with an affordable price. There are also linings and block houses made of linden and alder; they are more suitable for cladding interior walls.
The shape or relief of the lining - can be flat, convex, concave, wavy. This characteristic is important for the decorative effect of building walls.
The grade of lining is 1, 2 or 3 in the post-Soviet classification or A, B, and C in the European one. The grade determines the quality of the wood - the presence of stains from knots, chips, hidden cracks.
The presence of external treatment - moisture-resistant, anti-fungal or fire-retardant impregnation.

Vinyl siding

Covering a frame house with siding often uses plastic panels made of polyvinyl chloride. This material has proven itself as an affordable wall covering with high decorative properties.

When choosing siding panels, you must consider the following characteristics:

The amount of recyclable materials in plastic determines the quality, durability and price of PVC panels. Cheap panels contain up to 80% recycled plastic and are not suitable for exterior decoration. For external cladding, it is allowed to use panels whose bottom layer contains no more than 5% of raw materials.
The content of modifiers determines the strength of the panel and its price.
Content of other chemical compounds: butadione – no more than 1%, titanium dioxide – no more than 10%, calcium carbonate – no more than 15%.
Panel relief - determines what type of walls vinyl siding will imitate.

How to sheathe a frame house cheaply

Sheathing a frame house with OSB on the outside has gained popularity primarily due to the very affordable price. At the same time, they try to compensate for the shortcomings of OSB, their low moisture resistance and insufficient strength, with additional protection of their surface, plaster or painting.

The choice of panels for cladding an OSB frame house should take into account the category of building material. The category of slabs is indicated by numbers - 1, 2, 3 or 4. It determines the purpose and technical characteristics - strength, moisture resistance, possibility of use in external construction. To cover a frame wall, slabs of category 3 or 4 are required.

Now let's talk about how to properly sheathe a frame house.

Features of installation of a ventilated facade

The exterior decoration of a frame house is often equipped as a ventilated facade. Especially if a cotton insulator was used to insulate the walls - mineral wool or glass wool. This insulating material requires a ventilation gap between its surface and the wall sheathing. How to sheathe a frame house with OSB, boards or siding?

When building a frame house, a so-called sheathing is constructed under the siding to create a gap between the insulation and the wall sheathing. It consists of wooden or metal strips that are attached to the frame supports. Wall sheathing is mounted on top of the planks. Thus, the outer panels are not located close to the heat insulator, but at some distance from it.

In order to increase the strength of the installation of wall cladding, low-strength sheathing is replaced with wide frame posts. Their thickness should be greater than the thickness of the insulation, then the necessary gap will be formed between the surface of the heat insulator and the outer edge of the frame support after hanging the outer wall panels. This is done to cover the outside of a frame house with OSB.

The presence of a ventilation gap protects the outer panels from moisture. Therefore, such a gap is necessary when building a frame house with imitation timber, “like wood”. Or when using wood chip boards. In the absence of air space, vapor particles will collect in external wall, cause dampness, rotting, fungus.

Exterior finishing of a frame house - is it really necessary?

A modern cottage is wooden structure, built on the principle of a skeleton on which the walls, ceiling, roof and floor are attached. Its universal design gives scope for choice of cladding. Wood itself is not ideal: to prevent heat from escaping through such walls, their thickness must be increased to 6 centimeters. If metal is used for the base, then the problem of heat loss is even more aggravated. By choosing the right finishing material, you will ensure comfort and health for yourself and your loved ones. The house will be reliably protected from wind, frost, precipitation and high temperatures.

When choosing an option, please pay attention to the following information:

Modern frame houses are lined with materials that can take on part of the load. They give the structure additional rigidity. The main criterion for selection is mechanical strength in compression and bending, and absence of shrinkage.
Exterior finishing must repel moisture, be resistant to temperature changes and the effects of microorganisms - fungus and mold.
The flexibility of the material during processing and ease of installation are important. Especially if you decide to do everything yourself. The total repair time depends on how simple the installation is. The selected building material must be amenable to drilling and cutting, while maintaining shear density, and must not crack or crumble.
The material must be durable. This includes saving money, time and effort. You will not have problems with the cladding if it lasts for several decades and does not lose its original appearance.

If a frame house is located in the middle zone, where there are severe frosts in winter and heat in summer, it needs to be sheathed on the outside with very high quality.

Brick and facade board - an all-time classic

Natural brick block is a material that is traditional in the field of cladding frame houses. Brick is durable, retains heat well and does not allow cold to pass through, durable.

Provided that the masonry is laid correctly, the finish looks attractive; it does not need to be painted or treated with special compounds against moisture, fire or mold. During work, it is necessary to leave a gap between the surface of the building and brickwork. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate inside.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

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In order to lay a brick beautifully and correctly, skill is required. This finishing option has an average cost.

Another disadvantage is that there is no opportunity to choose an interesting color or texture, as is the case with siding, clinker tiles or artificial stone.

If you like eco-friendly, natural materials and if you want to save money, choose a façade board that imitates timber. The material has two sides. The planed part is attached to the wall, and the polished part is on the outside. The board is sanded so that the paint is better absorbed into it.

There is already painted material on the market - all you have to do is choose the desired color.

Before decorating your house, read carefully the descriptions of materials that are popular today, take the time to visit a store where big choice for builders. "Live" acquaintance with different options will help you choose what's best for you!

Types of finishing

The exterior decoration of a frame house can be made of various materials, so when choosing a certain type of product, it is worth learning about their features. Some materials can be fixed yourself, while others will have to be installed by professional builders.

To external finishing frame house was admired, you need to choose the right finishing materials suitable for your chosen design style.

It is impossible to leave a frame house without finishing, so you will have to choose the material in any case.

The most common include:

Hanging structures. Thanks to such products, it is possible to additionally insulate the building from the outside if it is located in a region with a continental climate. When choosing this finishing method, you can use metal, brick, stone and other materials.
Plaster. Such compositions can have different shades, so if desired, you can decorate the house in any style.
Facade brick. When choosing this material, it should be taken into account that the weight of the house increases significantly. That is why it is worth choosing a material for the external design of a building at the design stage.
Siding. This material is characterized by low cost and a fairly long service life.
PVC panels. Such products can imitate brick, boards and other materials. If exterior decoration frame house is made with your own hands, it is necessary to constantly check the location of each cladding element.
Panels based on polyurethane. This material allows you not only to change the appearance of the building, but also to insulate the facade.
Facade tiles. This material is fixed with glue or using special fasteners for tiles.
Block house. The specified cladding material is created on the basis of wood and gives the houses a natural look.

When choosing any material, it is important to purchase only reliable products. The cladding of the house must be done correctly without cracks or gaps. It is best to entrust the work to professional builders. In this case, the finishing of the frame house from the outside will be done with high quality and in a more efficient manner. short time than when creating the cladding with your own hands.

Hanging structures

Wall-mounted finishing structures have many advantages over other types of similar materials. If desired, you can completely change the appearance of the house by attaching the appropriate panels. The frame for securing finishing materials is most often made of metal. In this case, a space is left between the finish and the wall in which the insulation can be placed. Mineral wool is usually used.

It should be noted that the use of hanging structures can improve the sound insulation of the structure, making the house more comfortable. The described structures can be divided into ventilated and non-ventilated. Products of the second type are easier to fasten, which is why many owners choose them country houses. It is also important to consider that interior decoration frame house must be combined with the selected material.

Wet lining

Most often, wet cladding of a wooden house is done with additional insulation. Foam boards are used for this. When purchasing, you only need to select slabs for exterior finishing. This type of foam is called façade foam and is marked with the letter f.

Extruded polystyrene foam should only be used to insulate the base of a building. This is due to the fact that such material is more rigid and does not absorb moisture. The foam is glued end to end. In order for the primer to adhere to the surface more reliably, it is necessary to treat the slabs with sandpaper.

After fixing the foam, a special glue is applied to its surface, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded. After this, the surface is covered with quartz primer. This composition contains sand filler. Only after the described work has been carried out can plaster be applied.

Compositions for finishing Frame house facades are divided into acrylic, silicone, mineral and silicate.

Facade brick

The described material can be divided according to composition and shade. For exterior finishing, the following types of material are most often used:

sand-lime brick;
ceramic;
hyper-pressed.

Sand-lime brick is low cost, while ceramic brick is more beautiful material. Bricks are divided into solid and hollow. Products of the second type retain heat better. That is why many owners of frame buildings choose them.

It is not necessary to install this material in winter time, since at sub-zero temperatures the solution freezes and the masonry becomes more fragile. Before finishing work, it is necessary to accurately calculate the required amount of material.

Brick lots may have different shade, which will negatively affect the appearance of the building. To make the color of the masonry more uniform, you can treat the walls with 10% sulfuric acid.

If the exterior finishing is done correctly, the house will look like a structure made entirely of brick. It is also important to choose a shade roofing material so that it matches the color of the brick.

Thermal panels with clinker tiles

Many people use thermal panels to cover a frame house. They not only decorate the wall, but also help retain heat in the house. The panels are fixed in a seamless manner. Many owners of country plots choose clinker tiles to decorate a frame house, as they are not subject to abrasion and deformation by mold.

The material is fixed to the walls as follows:

First, the geometry of the structure is verified. All walls of the house must be perfectly smooth, and the corners are 90 degrees. If there is even a slight deviation, it is necessary to create a sheathing for the entire structure.
Installation of the base profile. At this stage, consolidation occurs aluminum profile in the horizontal direction. During work it is necessary to use a building level.
After this, the corner thermal panels are fixed.
At the next stage, the panels are installed over the entire area of the facade. For this, dowels or screws are used.
Then you need to seal the panels by filling the gaps between the panels. The seams are treated with grout that is resistant to low temperatures.

By selecting this method finishing you need to be prepared to spend large quantity money, since the material is highly expensive. You will also have to spend money on the services of builders.

Using tiles to look like brick, stone and other materials

When using tiles, you can not only modify the structure, but also protect it from external factors. Fastening should be done to the sheathing in such a way that between finishing material and the gap remained like a wall. It is important to press the tiles tightly against each other, since if there is even a small gap through the tiles, wooden walls moisture may get in. The tiles are fixed using glue.

The described material has the following advantages:

Wide variety of shapes and colors. Thanks to this, if you wish, you can decorate your own frame house in an original way.
Easy to install. Even if you hire professional builders, the cost of the work will not be high, since the tiles are fixed quite quickly.
Lightness of tiles. Since the material is light in weight, strengthening the foundation of the house is not required.
Wall protection frame house from moisture and condensation.
Environmental friendliness.
Attractive appearance. Tiles allow you to create a design that is difficult to distinguish from the finishing of expensive types of stone.

If deformations occur, the tiles are easy to replace. To do this, you just need to remove the damaged products, securing new ones in their place.

Using a block house

If you want to design the building as a house made of timber, you should use a block house. This material is a part of a rounded log, with flat surface. It is this side that the material is fixed to the wall, due to which, after finishing work, it seems that the house is built of logs.

In addition, the block house has other advantages:

Protection from environmental influences. The material is coated with special compounds that extend the life of the wood.
Possibility of insulation and fastening soundproofing material. Mineral wool is often placed under the finishing.
Fastening the described products can be done with your own hands. It is not necessary to hire professional builders to carry out the work. But it should be remembered that to avoid errors it is important to carry out work with an assistant.
Possibility of replacing each finishing element of a frame house.

Structure and features of frames

Do-it-yourself interior finishing of a frame house, as well as external finishing, should be done taking into account the structural features of this type of structure.

The following differences most noticeably affect the finish:

The load-bearing basis of the house is a wooden frame, which distributes the load through a system of posts, beams, rafters and crossbars from the roof of the structure to its foundation. As you know, wood is quite flexible and soft material, and under the influence of forces the frame gives some shrinkage, uneven displacement and movement of parts relative to each other is observed;
As a rule, frames are placed on columnar or pile foundations, and uneven subsidence of the structure is possible, which is not particularly fatal for the frame, since it is flexible and can allow slight distortions and changes in geometry, but a monolithic coating, such as plaster, can crack;
The walls of the house consist of a system of frame beams and panels that fill the space between the beams. Often, instead of panels, this space is filled with insulation and sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant OSB plywood, which in itself cannot perform the functions of facade finishing, either in terms of decorative or structural characteristics;
The structure of the wall is such that the insulation is located in its internal space, therefore for middle zone and south external insulation not required. At the same time, many still sheathe their houses with polystyrene foam, since it is an excellent base for plaster.

All these features allow you to determine how to decorate the outside of a frame house so that the coating lasts as long and efficiently as possible. As a rule, preference is given to mounted façade structures, various panels and slabs, wood paneling and plaster.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask a question to an expert

Important! Facade decoration facing bricks are produced very rarely, since a frame house is an option for budget prefabricated housing, and the price of laying work and the cost of the brick itself make this advantage insignificant.

Preparing the sheathing surface for painting

In order for the paint to adhere well to the surface of the sheathing boards, it is necessary to process the entire surface using a sanding machine, and the sanding machine must be filled with sandpaper (grain gradation sandpaper for sanders 25, 40, 80,120) I used 40 grit.
If we plan to paint the facade of the house with oil paint, then first apply two layers of drying oil to the surface of the cladding, after it has dried, we proceed to painting the house.
The sheathing surface can be painted with a wide brush, roller or using a spray gun.

Finishing window openings

Plastic corner for decorative appearance the ends of the siding panels in the window opening

In order to hide the ends of the siding panels at the window openings, I used a plastic corner instead of wooden trim.
I secured one side of the corner to the front side of the panels, and the other side hid the ends of these panels. The corner was installed in such a way that one end fits snugly against the window opening.

Note: siding panels can be trimmed using a metal saw, or using electric jigsaw with a file having a fine tooth.

Important! Sheathing the walls of a house with siding should be done in the warm season. Since at temperatures from + 15 degrees, siding panels have better ductility than at low temperatures.

Also, do not pull the panel up too much when installing it, since when sub-zero temperatures, the siding will shrink and if it is tightly stretched at the time of installation, the panel may simply crack.

Installation and insulation of sheathing

All materials used for cladding a frame house, with the exception of boards, are sheet materials. Therefore, installation usually does not pose any particular difficulties. To fasten the sheets to the base of the frame, nails with a wide head of a suitable size are used. However, the length of the nails must be at least 70-80 mm.

Since some of the materials are more fragile, they can be fastened using screws - when screwed in, they do not leave cracks or split the slab.

The slabs can be installed depending on the size of the wall and the size of the perimeter. Their location can be vertical or horizontal - this allows, depending on the situation, to more economically use the remaining material after trimming.

To enhance the insulating qualities of the sheathing material and give an even greater degree of heat capacity to the structure itself, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation materials. The building materials market currently produces enough products with such qualities.

Thermal insulation materials can be roll type or in the form of small slabs.

For this purpose, the following can be mounted under the casing:

Foam sheets. Depending on the sheathing material, the thickness of this insulation should be from 50 mm and above
Expanded polystyrene– the material is even more efficient than the previous version due to its high density. However, its cost is much higher. In cladding work, polystyrene foam thickness from 30 mm is used
Mineral wool– roll type of materials. Has excellent insulating properties. But due to the characteristics of rolled products, this material is characterized by higher labor intensity during installation.

Along with these classical materials, their modern analogues can be used. In most cases, the procedure is completed by laying insulating materials and installing sheathing materials.

However, in some cases, additional treatment of the outer surface of the cladding is carried out with soil mixtures to give them greater technological characteristics and resistance to external environment and strengthening the outer layer of the slabs.

Based on materials from the site: megabeaver.ru, fasad-exp.ru, 1karkasnydom.ru, obustroen.ru, bouw.ru, nashaotdelka.ru

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