Why drywall is not the best choice for walls: comparing alternatives. Installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard Installation of walls from gypsum plasterboard using metal profiles

INSTALLATION OF PARTITIONS FROM GVL AND GKL.

Partitions using plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets are used for dry finishing of premises.

This method eliminates “wet” processes associated with the use of masonry and plaster mortars, and significantly increases labor productivity.

The use of partitions made of gypsum fiber board and gypsum plasterboard in most cases turns out to be more advantageous compared to known structures (brick, concrete), since their installation speed is higher and their weight is less.

Important advantage interior partitions from gypsum fiber board and gypsum board - the possibility of their quick dismantling giving the room its original appearance and installation according to an individual layout.

Stage 1.

The partition frame consists of rack-mount (PS) and guide profiles (PN), made of galvanized steel sheet, 0.5 - 0.8 mm thick:

The table shows the geometric dimensions of the profiles:

When installing partitions, use PS and PN profiles with the same values section size (a, mm).

Maximum permissible height partitions for a metal profile frame:

Profiles PS and PN (a = 65 mm ): 3m ;

Profiles PS and PN(a = 75 mm ): 3.3 - 3.6 m;

Profiles PS and PN (a = 100 mm ): 4.5 - 4.8 m;

Profiles PS and PN (a = 50 mm ): areauxiliary and used when framing openings, etc.

The value of the partition thickness (>T, mm) is the sum of the thicknesses of the gypsum fiber board or gypsum board layers (t, mm) and the profile size (a, mm): in in this case T = 2 * t + a

Stage 2.

Use a tapping cord to mark the location of the partitions on the floor according to the design. Then, using a plumb line, transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling.

Apply sealing tape to guide profiles (PN) adjacent to the floor and ceiling, as well as rack profiles (PS) adjacent to enclosing structures or to each other (with a double frame).

Install the PN to the floor and ceiling, according to the set marks, using BS-K plastic dowels (size 8*50) and galvanized screws (semicircular head with a pressed washer, screw size 4.2*51).

Install screws in increments 500 mm

Install the PS to the enclosing structures using BS K plastic dowels (size 8*49) and galvanized screws (halfround head with a pressed washer, screw size 4.2*51) - connection to concrete, solid and hollow masonry, or galvanized screws (semicircular head with a pressed washer, screw size 4.2*25) connection to a partition made of single-layer gypsum fiber board (GKL) ), wooden partition.

Install screws in increments 1000 mm , but not less than 3 for each profile.

Installation of profiles should be carried out in the following sequence:

Using a tape measure, measure the profile of the required length;

Cut the profile with metal scissors;

Set the profile according to the marks;

Drill holes in the adjacent surface through the profile using a hammer drill (drill diameter 8 mm ), install dowels along the entire length of the profile;

Screw in the screws using a screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver attachment.

Install the PS between the upper and lower guides strictly plumb or level (we recommend using a level with a magnetic edge) in increments 605 mm (for gypsum fiber board) or 600 mm (for gypsum boards). The height of the PS should be less than the height of the room by 10 mm.

Install an additional PS at the junction of another partition with the one being mounted:

To simplify the installation of gypsum fiber board or gypsum board sheets to the frame, it is advisable to install PS in increments402 mm (for GVL) or 400 mm (for gypsum board), and at the junction of sheets of gypsum board or gypsum fiber board, install an additional PS:

Fasten the PS profiles together with galvanized screws (semicircular head with pressed-on washer, screw size 4.2*14) in increments 1000 mm , but not less than 3 for the length of the fastened profiles.

Reinforce the rack profiles of the doorway with a wooden block.

The lintel over the doorway, window openings, frames of hatches and other openings should be made from a guide profile.

Select the width of the doorway taking into account the design of the door frame.

Fasten the metal profiles together with galvanized screws (semicircular head with a pressed washer, screw size 4.2*14).

Stage 3.

Method of cutting gypsum fiber board and gypsum board sheets:

Cut along the length or width of the sheet using a knife. For gypsum fiber board, cut the sheet with a knife, then bend it along the cut line to a break. For plasterboard - trim the cardboard layer on one side, bend the sheet along the cut line, and then cut through the cardboard layer on the other side of the sheet;

Round holes with a diameter of up to 80 mm cut with a drill with a circular saw attachment;

Cut round holes of large diameters with using drills. Using a drill, drill a path of holes along the length of the circle, and then squeeze out the core of the circle;

Cut rectangular holes with a hacksaw using GVL;

Make rectangular cuts in the sheet with a hacksaw.

Grind the edge of a gypsum board or gypsum board sheet using a sanding float with glass cloth sandpaper attached to it№25.

As a result of cutting and grinding the sheet, a straight edge is formed, therefore, in order to prevent the formation of ledges during subsequent filling of the seams, the edge must be processed with a plane until a chamfer is formed at 1/3 of the sheet thickness at an angle of 22.5º or 45º.

Stage 4.

For single-layer cladding on both sides of the frame, use:

GVL sheets type FK with chamfers;

GKL sheets of types UK (edge ​​thinned on the front side), PLUK (semicircular edge and thinned on the front side).

A gap must be left between the sheathing and the ceilings (ceiling and floor). 10 mm.

To fasten sheets to a metal frame:

For GVL - double-start screws with a self-drilling head (dimensions: 3.9*19; 3.9*25; 3.9*30; 3.9*45). The surface of the screw head must be recessed to a depth of 0.8 - 1 mm (adjust the screwdriver using the depth stop);

For gypsum boards - phosphated metal screws with a countersunk head (dimensions: 3.5*19; 3.5*25; 3.5*32; 3.5*35). The screw heads must be recessed to a depth of 0.8 - 1 mm (adjust the screwdriver using the depth stop).

When choosing the length of the screw, you should take into account that when screwing in the screw must go inside metal frame no less than 10 mm.

The screws should be screwed in perpendicular to the plane of the sheathing at a distance 12 mm from the edge of the sheet in increments 300 mm . The distance from the ceiling to the first top screw should be 60 - 150 mm.

If the screw becomes deformed while screwing in, it should be removed and replaced with a new one, with installation in another place at a distance of at least 50 mm from the previous one, or from one of the inner rows in both directions.

Attaching the sheet to the frame should be done either from the corner of the sheet in two mutually perpendicular directions.

Joining gypsum fiber board or gypsum board sheets only on frame posts. A gap should be left between the joined sheets: 5 mm (for gypsum fiber board) or 1 mm (for gypsum boards). Install screws on two adjacent sheets staggered, minimum displacement - 10 mm.

Stage 5.

After covering GVL sheets or gypsum board on one side of the frame, the partition should be soundproofed. As soundproofing material You can use either PSB-S (expanded polystyrene with fire retardant) or glass wool.

Size of polystyrene foam boards: length from 900 to 5000 mm with 50 mm intervals, width from 500 to 1300 mm at intervals 50 mm (the most common is PSB-S with a length and width of 1000 mm), thickness from 20 to 500 mm with intervals 10 mm.

Glass wool is produced in slabs (dimensions length 1000 mm , width 500, 600, 900 and 1000 mm, thickness 50, 100 mm ) and rolls (size length 7, 10, 12, 14 m , width 1200, thickness 25, 50, 75, 100).

Perform electrical installation work.

Sheathe the second side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard or gypsum board sheets according to the recommendationsstage 4.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, separating them with frame partitions covered with plasterboard and installing a door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in production and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special fire safety requirements.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material, specially treated to improve its fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, no piles of construction waste and dust are formed and does not exceed permissible level noise and uses minimal energy.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that need to be taken into account when accepting final decision about its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction(brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
• Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
• A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

Materials

At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:

1. There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. Is load-bearing element sheathings.
2. Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and figured designs will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area it will be useful basalt wool, excellent heat retention.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.

  The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.

• Rack profile (CW). Considering standard width gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), vertical racks The frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.

• Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.

• Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
• plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers from the German company KNAUF - a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at a room temperature of at least +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners

3. We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level

4. Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper

6. We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws

7. Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.

   You can insert inside the top beam of the opening wooden beam, further strengthening the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.

   Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Plates from mineral wool reliably retain heat and also isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

   Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

3. Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts.

   Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts

5. We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for fastening the extensions or parts custom size you'll have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

When using gypsum fiber sheets for cladding partitions and for cladding, the following general recommendations should be followed:

1. Use gypsum fiber sheets with straight edges; there is no need to remove the chamfer before applying a layer of putty;

2. To fix gypsum fiber sheets, special screws are used that are intended for gypsum fiber boards;

3. When installing sheets, leave gaps that are equal to half the thickness of the gypsum fiber sheet. The sheets cannot be installed closely;

4. Putty work should be carried out using a special mixture for gypsum plasterboard.

Marking and cutting

The sheets must be marked in accordance with the project, cut using a hacksaw or jigsaw. If the edge resulting from trimming is located on the outer corner, then it should be processed with a roughing plane.

Installation of the structure frame

We mark the position of the partition and openings directly on the floor and walls. We use a tape measure and a cord breaker. Laser marking equipment will greatly facilitate your work.

A special sealing tape should be glued to the guide profiles that will be fixed to the floor and ceiling, as well as to the rack profiles near the wall. It allows you to increase the soundproofing properties of the structure.

Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor using dowels, the step is no more than a meter. When installing rack profiles into the guides, it is necessary to observe a step of 60 cm. Monitor the accuracy of the vertical line, use a level and plumb line. In this case, there is no need to fix profiles. When preparing and cutting rack profiles, take into account the fact that the length of the profile is 10 mm should be less than the height of the room.

If there is an opening in the partition, then it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper. A PS profile is used as an intermediate post. The joint of the gypsum fiber sheets should be on this stand.

If it is necessary to strengthen support posts doorway, due to the weight of the door exceeding 30 kg, wooden blocks should be secured in them. It is possible to install an additional rack, which is attached to the main one through PS profile inserts.

Power and low current wiring can be passed through small holes in the rack profiles. It is necessary to take into account subsequent fastening, which in no case should damage the wires. The casing must have holes provided by the design through which the wiring is routed outside. If it is necessary to install electrical boxes opposite each other, then they should be offset by one meter.

Installation of gypsum fiber sheet

To fasten the sheets we use screws for gypsum fiber boards, the fixation step should be about 25 cm. Start fastening the gypsum fiber sheet in the corner, fastening in two directions, which will be mutually perpendicular. You can fasten from the middle to the edge of the sheet.

Step back no less from the edge of the gypsum fiber sheet 10 mm when installing self-tapping screws for gypsum fiber boards. If the sheathing is done in two layers, then the sheets can be attached not to the frame, but to the first installed layer of material.

note that the screws should enter the sheet at an angle of 90 degrees. The depth of penetration of the screw into the profile flange should be approx. 10 mm. The heads need to be sunk into the material on 1 mm.

Leave a gap between the sheets 5-7 mm. As you work, adjust the position of the racks that fall on the edges and middle of the gypsum fiber sheet. Only after you are convinced of their correct position, fix it with screws.

ABOUT finishing work

The joints of the gypsum fiber sheets must be puttied. Using a spatula, apply the solution flush into the gap formed at the joint. Screws recessed into the material should also be puttied. Let the solution dry, then finish the surface with putty.

The resulting protrusions and irregularities are removed by grouting. External corners most often exposed mechanical damage during operation. Therefore, they need to be strengthened with a PU profile. Putty is applied to the surface of the corner, into which the profiled profile is pressed. A leveling layer of solution is applied over the profile.

After grouting the surface, it is necessary to prime the partition with a special compound. The gypsum fiber sheet is pre-treated with a reinforcing compound, so the primer is applied only in areas where the putty is used.

Only after the primer has completely dried can you begin the subsequent finishing of the partition.

The problem of lack of living space exists in more than seventy percent of modern families. It is quite difficult to solve this issue by purchasing a new, larger housing. But there is a less expensive way to make an apartment cozy and functional - to divide the space into zones. There are several techniques for this, but we will talk about the most universal one. This article will talk about how to build a plasterboard partition without much effort.

Calculation of materials and selection of tools

Any repair must begin with developing an estimate and purchasing all the necessary components. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the number of “consumables” and select a tool. This will help you avoid unexpected expenses and save valuable time.

First, you need to decide what type of plasterboard partition will be built. In any case, a metal frame is required, but the number of layers of sheathing may vary. In addition, when installing, use different types gkl. It depends on the operating conditions. For example, in wet areas You only need to use a moisture-resistant sheet (green). One more nuance: structures made of gypsum plasterboard are not made sliding, but installing a door in them is quite possible.

Calculation necessary materials shown in Table 1.

Table 1 - Components for the construction of plasterboard partitions (calculation is given for 1 sq. m of construction with single-layer cladding).

In addition, you cannot do without the following set of tools:

• laser level;
• plumb line;
• hammer drill;
• trace cord;
• roulette;
• metal scissors;
• hammer (rubber);
• screwdriver.

After the purchase has been made, you can begin marking and installation.

Assembly of plasterboard partitions

First you need to decide on the location of the future structure. Only then comes the turn of marking. This stage is very important, since the slightest inaccuracies can significantly spoil the final result.

The markings are done sufficiently in a simple way: step back a certain distance from the walls and place marks on all adjacent surfaces. After this, the lines are marked using a level, which are connected with a tracing cord.

Now let’s talk about how to properly install a plasterboard partition. Installation of the frame begins with the preparation of profiles, which need to be cut depending on the height of the wall. Then the guide profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling and the racks are inserted into them. The pitch is chosen in the range of 0.4 m. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening. To provide mechanical strength future design, you can additionally install a corner profile.

The next stage in the construction of partitions from gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) is sheathing with sheets of material. Drywall is fastened with screws so as to avoid the coincidence of vertical joints. After completing the installation of one wall, you can begin laying sound insulation slabs.

The last point is the finishing of the partition. It represents a certain sequence of actions: sealing seams, putty, primer, finishing putty and decorative finishing. Inexperienced repairmen can be advised the following:

• perform all work with an assistant;
• Periodically watch video tutorials on installing plasterboard partitions.

Bending drywall for curved structures

Drywall is a material that is very convenient to use for creating figured and openwork partitions. To do this, you will have to bend it using a wet or dry method.

The most common option is to bend moistened sheets using a needle roller. To begin with, a template is cut out of cardboard or paper, which will have the shape of the intended design of part of the partition. Next, the material itself is prepared according to the template. Important: the hl should lie in the room for a couple of days to “accept” its humidity and temperature.

The side to be deformed is moistened and pierced using a needle roller. After this, the material is fixed until it dries completely, and then it is mounted on a specially prepared frame.

Do you want to diversify your interior, but don’t know how to assemble a figured plasterboard partition? To do this, you need to trim the guide profiles, bend them along the selected radius and strengthen them. Curved sheets are mounted across the rack profile and attached to the frame. Finishing produced according to the same principle as during conventional installation.

After you have mastered the basic principles of working with gypsum boards, you can try to complicate the task. For example, almost every resident apartment building faces the problem of storing seasonal clothing and shoes. An excellent solution would be to install a dressing room made of plasterboard. I would like to get some recommendations from those who have encountered this problem during the renovation process.

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) are an excellent construction and finishing material who found wide application V modern technologies and floors. We will tell you how to build a partition from plasterboard and what it means to decorate gypsum fiber board walls with your own hands.

Construction of a partition

Structure and composition

Before starting work, we should determine what elements our partition will consist of.

Structure and composition of plasterboard walls:

1. Frame made of galvanized metal profile. Includes the following elements: rack profile (PS) for vertical frame parts and guide profile (PN) - for horizontal connections of the wall to the ceiling and floor;
2. Soundproofing filler. For this purpose, non-flammable polystyrene foam or mineral wool (glass wool) slabs are usually used;
3. Double-sided frame covering. It is carried out with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) by fixing them to the frame posts with self-tapping screws on both sides of the structure;
4. Filling seams and joints. For these purposes, fast-hardening putties for seams such as KnaufFugenfuller or KnaufUniflot are used, as well as fiberglass reinforcement tape, which is popularly called “serpyanka”;
5. Leveling putty on the wall surface. It is necessary to create a flat plane on the surface of the structure, it is performed by applying a solution to the walls in a thin, uniform layer;
6. Finishing putty. Necessary if you plan to paint the walls. It is carried out with any finishing gypsum mixture, which is applied in a thin layer, and after drying, sanded with an abrasive float or emery cloth;
7. Finishing. This could be wallpaper, panels, decorative plasters and other facing coatings. In this case, finishing putty is not performed.

To construct the frame, the following elements are used: PS and PN profiles. They come in different sizes:

As you can see, in different brands of profiles only the size of side a changes, while side b remains unchanged. Therefore, when purchasing a set of profile elements, make sure that the a-dimension of the rack and guide rails is the same, otherwise their joint installation will be impossible.

Depending on the height of the structure, profiles of different sizes are used (side size a, mm is indicated):

• Up to 3 meters – 65;
• From 3 to 4.5 meters – 75;
• Over 4.5 meters – 100.

The maximum height of partitions that can be built using this technology is 5 meters. The work can also use auxiliary profiles with a side size of a = 50 mm for mounting horizontal jumpers, framing holes, etc.

Can be used as sound insulation polystyrene foam boards with fire retardant with a thickness of 50 mm, as well as mineral wool slabs with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm. These products fill the gap between the frame skins.

To cut GVL sheets, use a construction knife (for longitudinal and transverse straight cuts), a hacksaw for GVL (for cutting rectangular holes) and a drill with a circular saw (for cutting round holes diameter up to 80 mm).

Important! Before installation, the sheets must be kept in the room where the work is planned for at least 4 days so that they acquire the same humidity.

Frame assembly

The instructions for assembling the metal frame are simple and clear:

1. Using a coated cord on the floor, we beat off the line of the partition according to the project. The line must be strictly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Then, using a plumb line, we transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling;

1. We take the PN and cut out two sections along the length of the line on the floor, cover them with sealing tape and fix them along the floor and ceiling using BS-K 8x50 mm dowels and galvanized screws 4.2x51 mm with a pitch of 50 cm, but not less than 3 per section profile. We make sure that the parts are located exactly according to the markings;

1. We take the PS and cut out two sections along the height of the room minus 5 - 10 mm, which we cover with sealing tape and fix along the walls between the guides. The screw installation pitch is 100 cm, but not less than 3 per section of the rail;

1. Next, we place the PS on the sides of the doorway, which we strengthen wooden blocks, inserted inside the profile. To work, we use a plumb line or a level; we connect the parts using special fasteners in the profile structure or galvanized self-tapping screws 4.2x14 mm.

1. We make the upper border of the doorway from a section of PN, which we reinforce with a vertical crossbar (or two) made of PS installed between it and the ceiling guide;

1. We install the PS with a pitch of 402 mm along the entire partition, except for the doorway. We maintain verticality, if the intended joint of the sheets is not on the PS, then we install an additional profile in this place.

We connect the profiles with screws after the PS is inserted into the PN:

Sheathing and sound insulation

After completing the assembly of the frame, it should be sheathed with gypsum fiber sheets. To do this, cut out the sheets and cut out the necessary parts. If the vertical size of the sheet does not overlap the height of the structure, then horizontal jumpers from smaller PN should be installed at the joining point, or holes for joining should be cut in the normal profile.

The sheets are attached to the frame with double-threaded self-tapping screws with a self-countersinking head measuring 3.9x30 mm in increments of 30 cm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the gypsum sheet. The length of the screw should allow it to extend into the profile by 1 cm. A gap of 10 mm is left between the sheets and the enclosing structures, and 5 mm between adjacent sheets.

Fastening is carried out from the corner in two perpendicular directions: vertical and horizontal:

After covering one side, the structure is filled with sheets of mineral wool, inserting them between the posts so that they are slightly compressed by them and do not fall. Then the other side of the partition is covered, thereby covering the soundproofing layer.

Important! Joining of sheets (horizontal or vertical) is carried out only on the profile. If there is no profile at the junction of adjacent gypsum fiber lines, it must be added.

Wall decoration

To finish and level the walls, GVL is glued to their surface using putty or glue. If the unevenness on the walls exceeds 20 mm, then 100 mm wide strips of gypsum are first glued to the wall, to which the sheets are then glued using putty:

Here, as in the case of a partition, the sheets are pre-marked and cut, which are then glued to the walls, creating the most even surface possible. If you don't mind the higher price, use waterproof products.

Important! Don't forget to pre-cut holes for sockets and switches. This is easy to do using an electric drill with a circular saw.

Between the sheets we maintain a standard gap of 5 mm (for gypsum plasterboard) or 1 mm (for gypsum plasterboard), which will then be filled with putty.

If the walls are too crooked or you need them internal insulation, use the frame finishing method. To do this, the wall is first leveled with a structure made of PS and PN, which are fixed to the surface with dowels or brackets.

The pitch of the racks and the principle of assembling the frame are the same as when constructing a partition, only here each rack and horizontal part are attached to the wall in three places.

After assembling the frame, it is covered with plasterboard, similar to the frame sheathing from the previous chapter. The space between the wall and the sheathing can be filled with insulation.

Important! Along the edge of the sheet at the cut point, a chamfer is made to a third of the sheet thickness at an angle of 24.5 degrees.

Finishing

The joints are coated with putty and reinforced with special tape.

Also tighten all the screws so that they enter the surface of the plaster to a depth of 0.5 - 1 mm. Breakthrough of the cardboard covering is unacceptable. The entry points of the self-tapping screws are also covered with putty.

When the seams have dried, they begin to putty the entire wall. To do this, gypsum putty is diluted with water according to the manufacturer's instructions and applied to the wall with a wide spatula in an even thin layer (1 - 2 mm). After this layer has dried, it is finished with a grater and covered with wallpaper.

Important! If painting is planned, then apply double layer putty, which is carefully sanded with a fine grater. Then the surface is primed and painted.

Conclusion

Drywall and gypsum fiber sheet are excellent materials for finishing and leveling walls. At the same time, the installation of these sheets is simple and can be done independently, and for those who still decide to make repairs, we have posted a training video in this article ().