We make the floor screed with our own hands. Do-it-yourself floor screed: a detailed guide with Video

Floor leveling has only recently begun to be used in our country. Rivne flooring has high performance: it is characterized by compressive and bending strength, flexibility, environmental friendliness and increased fire resistance.

Peculiarities

A flat floor in a room is one of the main aspects in creating beauty, coziness and comfort. An evenly laid floor determines how well the coating will lie, how integrity and geometry will be maintained, and how the interior will look as a whole.

How the furniture will stand depends on the quality of the floor work. After all, if the surface is bumpy and uneven, the furniture will begin to wobble, deform, crack, in a word, deteriorate.

If you decide to renovate your apartment, then it’s definitely worth assessing the type of flooring and if its condition leaves much to be desired, consider reupholstering.

Today you can find a large number of offers for the provision of floor screed services. It is possible to do this yourself, saving money on the work of a master. At first, this will seem like a long and labor-intensive process, but with time, speed and skill will come.

However, few people can do a properly executed screed. Technologies are often violated and gross mistakes are made. An incorrect floor screed can no longer be used in the future.. The lifespan of floor coverings is being called into question, since bubbles and cracks cannot be corrected or hidden by cosmetic repairs.

Before you begin, you need to fully understand the process. First of all, it is worth noting that the floor should be poured after finishing preparatory work with walls and ceiling and only when all communications have been completed. Only after pouring, complete drying and leveling of the floor can you begin finishing work.

Wet cement screed is suitable for use in any premises and does not depend on climatic conditions. A pleasant moment can also be considered the fact that You can install a heated floor system in the screed.

Indoor floors should be poured sequentially from one room to another. This will make the repair much easier and faster. Floor screed is one of the most common types repair work.

Types of screeds

Let's look at the main types and methods of floor leveling and their variations. Floor screed is divided into dry, wet and semi-dry. The screed can be mechanized or performed with a concrete pump.

Wet screed

It is one of the most common types of floor leveling. The basis of this method is the creation of a liquid coating of concrete or cement, which, after pouring, fills the space, spreading around the perimeter. But despite the fact that such a screed has the property of self-leveling, when using it there is a need for additional processing.

To prevent the formation of air bubbles, use a roller, and for a more even result, after drying, go over the surface with a spatula.

The mixture hardens for quite a long time, so there is a risk of cracking of the surface even if reinforcing equipment is used. The undeniable advantages of this method are its strength and fire resistance, moisture resistance and relative cost-effectiveness. Mounting mixtures must be selected carefully.

Conventionally, wet screed is divided into 4 categories, which in their structure have different types formation of the final layer, and also vary in the process of surface preparation:

• Knitted. The floor is formed from a layer of the screed itself, laid on the base, and waterproofing, which is placed on the finished screed. Next come finishing materials.
• WITH self-leveling coating . A combined screed, which is based on a rough layer of concrete or cement mixture, then the layer is filled with a self-leveling coating. This creates a perfectly smooth surface for finishing coats.
• On waterproofing. First, a layer of waterproofing is formed, and then the screed is laid out.
• On thermal insulation. This screed is suitable for work on soil foundations. First goes in layers compacted sand on which insulation is placed. You can insulate a room by using polystyrene foam, cotton wool, expanded clay or polyurethane foam. The next layer is waterproofing, and then the screed itself.

Since the solution is laid out on the insulation, the screed must be reinforced.

Depending on the load the base will be subjected to, it may be necessary metal carcass or reinforced mesh. A welded frame can withstand higher impact, while mesh is more suitable for a less stressed floor. When laying insulation on a slab, you can do without sand bedding.

Dry screed

It is considered “fast”, since it does not require drying of the surface and does not depend on temperature regime and has good sound insulation ability.

The basis for creating a floor in this way is parchment or polyethylene, on which a dry bedding is laid, for example, expanded clay or perlite, leveling the base. Then plasterboard moisture-resistant boards, chipboard or plywood sheets are laid on a flat embankment. But such a screed is afraid of moisture, so it is not recommended to carry out repair work of this kind in damp rooms. Moreover, screed materials are loose and dry, which can contribute to uneven shrinkage.

Semi-dry screed

Is alternative option and promotes accelerated formation of the base floor.

The technology for laying floors using a semi-dry method is in many ways similar to wet screed. The use of water in this method is reduced or even limited, and the presence of sand in the solution is increased. Such proportions enable the material to quickly harden, but reduce its strength characteristics.

Self-leveling floors

Separated into a separate category. This type of flooring uses self-leveling mixtures made from cement-sand components and polymers. As an option, the mixture can be completely polymeric.

When pouring the floor, the material spreads in a thin layer over the surface parallel to the horizon and fills all the unevenness. The main advantage is that there is no need to spread the coating in any way; you just need to get rid of air bubbles with a roller. Most often, self-leveling flooring is used in conjunction with other types of screeds., which due to its fluidity provides a perfectly flat surface.

other methods

There are also several other, less common methods of laying floors:

• Alignment on joists. For this method, a frame is first specially constructed from wooden logs, and then chipboard or plywood sheets are laid out on the prepared system. This floor leveling process should be trusted to professionals, as this is a technologically complex undertaking.

• Leveling with gypsum fiber sheets. With this type of work, there is no need to mix the solution, since dry filling is laid out on the base. Then everything is leveled and gypsum fiber sheets are laid in two layers. The method is quite expensive. Such floors cannot withstand heavy loads and can sag under intense impact.

What's the best way to fill it?

If the decision is made in favor wet screed, then you need to figure out which solution to use in your work.

Construction stores have a large assortment of ready-made flooring mixtures with mixing instructions. For example, the Knauf self-leveling mixture is very popular today. But you can prepare a solution from all its ingredients yourself.

The basis of the most popular wet screed is concrete. This construction material is obtained by mixing binders (for example, cement), fine fillers (sand or crushed stone) and water. In some cases, special additives (plasticizers) may be used.

Concrete is selected according to its grade. This is an indicator of strength, which is measured by compressing the material. To do this, small cubes of 150 mm on each side are cast and the product is allowed to harden for 28 days. The samples are then subjected to compression testing.

The letter “M” indicates the grade of concrete, and the number next to it indicates the tensile strength, which is measured in kg/cm2. Values ​​between 100 and 500 are most common. The following are types of concrete based on the average maximum strength:

• M150– this brand is well suited for floor screeding in small rooms; it can be used as a preparatory layer. Such concrete should not be used when the load on the floor is significant;
• M200– more strong concrete. High strength allows the material to serve for decades. A good brand for custom construction;
• M250– for this brand any mechanical influences and don’t care about the load. Has increased moisture resistance.

With a value between 300 and 500, it is used to create particularly strong structures such as bridges. Such mixtures harden quickly, so working with them requires certain skills.

The selection of suitable concrete is also based on the aggregate used in the mixture. Filler enhances technical properties material and saves cement. The technology for preparing the solution and the method of laying it depend on the type of filler.

There are many types of filler with different characteristics and fractions. The most commonly used are sand concrete and expanded clay concrete..

Sand concrete is used to create highly wear-resistant floors. Sand concrete is considered a non-shrinking mixture, which is distinguished by its high strength and is widely used in construction. A screed using such material guarantees the durability of the result.

This is a fairly plastic type of concrete, and its hardening time is short. Sand concrete is not afraid of frost, corrosion, does not allow moisture to pass through and has a high density. Perfect for sealing cracks and breaks in the subfloor. Sand concrete M300 is most often used for screeding.

Expanded clay concrete is considered “light” concrete. Its filler is expanded clay, which is granules of foamed, baked clay. Many craftsmen prefer this option to sand concrete, and here’s why:

• This resistant material according to chemical indicators. It is fireproof, not afraid of rust, and resists fungi and rot.
• The material is lightweight and has heat and sound insulation characteristics.
• Large differences can be easily leveled and allow you to create surfaces of any kind.

Expanded clay concrete after hardening must be sanded to obtain a smooth coating. A screed made of this material is a reliable and durable base for the floor.

Polypropylene fiber fiber can also be added to the composition. It eliminates plastic shrinkage, which is the main disadvantage of all cement mixtures. Fiber increases the service life of the screed and provides an absolute guarantee of a smooth floor without cracks.

The cost of work will also increase.

The choice of concrete and its additives should be based on the functions of the floor structure, the type of room, and the load on the coating. The convenience of using ready-made dry mixtures is undeniable, but it is financially expensive. A budget option involves making a solution from the basic components: cement and sand.

Tools and materials

When choosing a wet screed, you should stock up the right tool, which will serve for a long time, will save time and finances. By consulting with a specialist, you can choose the optimal tool.

Below is a list of the most necessary materials that will be required to level the floor yourself:

• Water or laser level to determine the height of the screed. Although the water level is considered an outdated unit, it is still held in high esteem by builders, since it is almost always stable in readings and has an advantage in price and availability. The laser level is distinguished by its speed and ease of use. This plane builder clearly demonstrates the situation on an uneven surface and clearly projects laser lines.

• Beacons. The installation of beacons allows you to avoid deviations from the markings. At their core, beacons are horizontal guides and have the appearance of a linear structure. Beacons can be made from scrap materials. Since wet screed involves the use of “heavy mixtures,” the guides must withstand heavy loads, so most often durable metal is used in the design.

The use of a U-shaped metal profile is common. But it is possible to use wooden beam, which is soaked before installation. Beacons are installed approximately 20 cm from the walls. For a more even laying of the beacons, lines are drawn on the floor with chalk along which the installation takes place.

The following installation of beacons is also possible: a thread or fishing line is pulled between screws screwed in at the required level. A solution for attaching beacons is laid out along the entire length of the tension. Next, guides are pressed into the mortar slides to the level of the tensioned cord.

The process of installing beacons is quite lengthy and scrupulous. You need to measure them with a level in all directions, lengthwise and crosswise. The choice of beacons depends on the thickness of the coating, the quality of the base and the filling material.

• Rule. Flatten concrete mixture This aluminum device will help with beacons. Most often, the rule has the shape of a rectangular trapezoid, hollow inside. How longer rule, the less frequently beacons can be installed, which will save operating time.

• Concrete mixer, mixer allow you to quickly mix the solution. The choice of one or another equipment depends on the volume of work. Due to its dimensions, a concrete mixer can become a problem, since it does not always fit into an elevator, is heavy and can be inconvenient during transportation. The advantages include independent mixing and unloading of the solution using a lever. But when unloading cement, the walls can be stained.

When using a mixer, workers are constantly involved. The mixer is more mobile. Mixing times are generally the same.

• Buckets. It is worthwhile to approach the choice of buckets intelligently, although it is consumables. Choosing a reliable bucket largely depends on the strength of the handles. For zinc metal and plastic buckets the fastening of the handles does not allow these products to last long and become unusable by the second week of intensive use.

A high-quality plastic construction bucket can withstand loads; the attachment point for the metal handle causes virtually no problems.

But finding such buckets can be a challenge, as they are increasingly being replaced with low-grade plastic that breaks on impact.

Also rubber buckets are good to use, to which rubber is added. Experienced repairmen advise taking buckets of imported paint. This is both free and convenient, since the design is well thought out, the fastening can withstand the weight and the handle is comfortable.

• Shovel. The “American” shovel with a pointed end has proven itself well in the work.
• Container for mixing the solution. For a small amount of work, a galvanized bath with a capacity of 100 liters is well suited. Thanks to its rounded edges, the mass is mixed well and does not get stuck in corners, such as in a trough. Moreover, the trough is less durable. An ordinary bathtub is lightweight and easy to transport.

• Plaster float, trowel. It is very convenient to smooth out defects after completing all floor laying work with a float. For more advanced specialists with experience, a trowel is also suitable; for beginners, a grater is more convenient to use.

• Reinforcing mesh. Used to achieve screed strength. The best thing is to use mesh in places where the floor will be subject to special loads. In an apartment this could be the hallway, kitchen or utility room. Also, reinforcing mesh is installed in places where the thickness of the screed is of great importance.

Typically, the mesh is installed at a height of 3 cm from the base, secured and covered with coating. The mesh “sinks” into the solution.

The mesh is made from various materials, mainly from wire, which is welded or twisted. The most common option is a ready-made mesh rolled into a roll. Any hardware store will offer you this option. Laying such a mesh is simple, quick, and the material is reliable.

Reinforcing meshes are divided into two main classes:

1. extended reinforcement can be made from materials such as polypropylene, fiberglass, and dispersion reinforcement;
2. when choosing a plastic mesh, you can be sure of its resistance to corrosion, and it costs much less. You can combine several types of mesh in your work.

• Roller.
• Cord or fishing line.
• Stationery knife.
• Roulette.
• Pencil, marker.
• Solution.
• Primer.
• Waterproofing material.

Here are the main tools you should use when leveling the floor.

There are a variety of ways to place beacons, so you may need Additional materials. Above are the most common and basic tools for successful floor screeding.

Consumption

In order to have an idea of ​​the proportions in which the mixture should be prepared and to know the exact ratio of the components, it is necessary to carry out a procedure for calculating the screed consumption per square meter. From correct calculations The durability and strength of the created base depends. Calculating expenses will give a complete picture of the finances spent that will be required to purchase materials.

The main influence on consumption rates is exerted by the selected screed components. It is also worth determining the purpose of the screed, since the following factors can influence the consumption of material:

• The coating is created in a garage, basement or any other technical room.
• The coating is created from scratch, on the ground and is rough. The thickness of this screed starts from 80 mm. In such cases, it is recommended to use concrete with a coarse fraction in the composition. If you need to achieve results with lower performance, then you can get by with a cement-sand mortar and a reinforcing mesh or structure.
• The floor covering procedure assumes a finishing option with a thickness of 5 mm or more. This layer will be the basis for finishing.

For a more accurate calculation result, a number of preparatory works are carried out. First, the base is cleared, the old floor covering is dismantled and cleaned. Then the damage is assessed. After preparation, they proceed to setting the zero level.

Elevation differences affect the final coating thickness. This indicator is the determining guideline for calculating the use of materials when using the wet method of pouring a floor.

The numbers depend on the materials chosen for optimal repair work. Preferring ready-made mixtures, you don’t have to think about calculating additional components, since everything is already taken into account in the composition.

It is worth spending your time familiarizing yourself with the composition of the products, since the characteristics of the finished mixtures are very different. Everything is already indicated on the packaging necessary information to calculate consumption. Usually they indicate how much material is required per 1 m 2 with a screed thickness of 1 or 10 mm.

If you need to obtain a value that takes into account a specific thickness, you can calculate it as follows:

• Calculate the area of ​​an apartment or house by multiplying the length by the width. With a non-standard layout, you can resort to a floor plan.
• The area is multiplied by the estimated thickness of the screed; the calculation system should be in meters.
• The value obtained by multiplication in step 2 is divided by 0.1

Example: The area of ​​the room is 20 m2, the thickness of the screed is 0.08 m, the consumption of the finished mixture according to the composition prescribed on the packaging per 10 mm of screed is 12.5 kg.

As a result, it turns out that 200 kg of dry matter will be required to fill 20 m2 with a thickness of 80 mm. Required amount water for diluting the solution is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging individually.

Traditional cement mortar for screed implies a proportion of 1: 3. This ratio assumes that 3 buckets of sand are taken for 1 bucket of cement. These are the most optimal proportions used in many types of work.

Quantitative calculation of the mixture that will be prepared with one’s own hands is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• The thickness is multiplied by the area of ​​the room. This way we define the cubic value. For example, 40 m 2 * 0.06 m = 2.4 m 3
• If the calculation is carried out from the proportions 1: 3, then the composition is divided into 4 parts, 2.4: 4 = 0.6 m 3. The value of 0.6 m 3 is Portland cement - pure material required for an area of ​​40 m 2 and with a fill thickness of 60 mm. The remaining components account for 1.8 m3, in the traditional version this is sand.
• Considering the approximate data that a cubic meter of cement is 1300-1400 kg, we calculate the required mass. 1300*0.6 = 780 kg
• One cubic meter sand is 1625 kg. 1625*1.8 = 2925 kg.
• The consumption of water added to the dry mixture can vary from 0.3 to 0.5 liters per kg of cement. 0.3*780=234 l

The following result was obtained with the initial data: for an area of ​​40 m2 with a coating thickness of 60 mm, we will need 3705 kg of dry mixture and 234 liters of water. Thus, we find that 1 m2 will require 93 kg of dry ingredients and approximately 6 liters of water.

If a filler such as a plasticizer is added to the solution, the weight of the filler is subtracted from the total volume, and then the volumes of cement and sand are calculated from the result obtained.

Fillers used in the dry mixture can reduce the consumption of cement for the screed. Accordingly, material costs can be reduced. Expanded clay, crushed stone or polystyrene can be contained in the total mass of the mixture by 40-60%, thereby reducing the proportion of cement.

Expanded clay consumption is based on the characteristics and thickness of the base. The density of this additive varies from 250 to 600 kg/m3. A solution in which the expanded clay content is about 50% of the total mass is considered the best in terms of strength and thermal conductivity.

For greater convenience and accuracy of calculations, you can use consumption calculators, which can be provided by sellers of mixtures.

How to make a screed?

Different types of screeds require their own specific material and device, but the technological requirements for all work are the same. The sequence is different, and step-by-step instructions will certainly be useful to you. Next, the wet screed method is discussed step by step.

Preparatory stage takes a little time. As with any other repair work, for a high-quality result, the base should be carefully prepared using extruded polystyrene foam.

The first thing to do is assess the condition of the foundation. It is necessary to clean the floor from remnants of the previous screed and floor covering. To ensure productivity in dismantling the old floor, it is recommended to use a hammer drill.

A vacuum cleaner removes dust that can impair the “adhesion” of the solution to the base fabric.

The vacuum cleaner can be used for both construction and household purposes.

If there are cracks in the coating, they should be repaired.. For such purposes, you can mix a thick cement solution or the same mixture that will be used for pouring.

If the floor is clean, smooth and without significant defects, then you can proceed to the next stage - priming.

Primer is one of the most important stages in creating a durable floor in an apartment, but, unfortunately, craftsmen underestimate it positive qualities. To improve adhesion, it would be appropriate to prime the base.

Adhesion is the bonding of two dissimilar materials. The primer improves the “adhesion” of the screed to the base. Due to the fact that the primer layer removes dust from the surface, it reduces Negative influence microparticles, thereby improving the quality of adhesion of materials. Moreover, this material seals pores and fills various voids, increasing the strength of the rough coating.

After using the primer, the structure of the base becomes monolithic. The use of a primer affects waterproofing; the base does not absorb moisture, therefore, with such a coating, the consumption of mixtures is reduced. It promotes uniform drying of the coating, thereby reducing the possibility of cracking.

Moreover, the advantages of applying a primer include strengthening properties and an effect on vapor permeability. An undeniable advantage is protection against the appearance and spread of fungus and mold, which loves a humid environment so much.

The most common type of floor primer can be considered “Concrete contact”. This primer is universal for walls, floors, and poorly absorbent surfaces, such as monolithic concrete. The primer is based on glue, acrylic and quartz sand.

Before application, it is recommended to stir the mass, because the fine sand included in the composition tends to settle. This primer dries quickly, which allows you to speed up the repair work cycle. The complete drying time depends on the brand, as it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. The primer is applied with a foam roller or brush. The use of a primer greatly increases the strength of the screed and is guaranteed to reduce the possibility of peeling and cracking.

If the floor screed is done in the bathroom or kitchen, then you should definitely think about waterproofing. It wouldn’t hurt to do this in other rooms as well.

Waterproofing is used to ensure that the screed dries evenly so that water does not leak out. cement mortar. For this purpose, in private houses and apartments, roll material is often used, including simple polyethylene film. When covering, the layer should extend 15-20 cm onto the wall, and should be laid overlapping.

Polymer mastics, which are easy to use and are sold ready for use, are gaining popularity. The coating range of polymer mastics is wide and they are used on almost any surface. It dries quickly and is expensive.

You can increase the moisture resistance of a room by using polymer-cement dry mixtures. These are, in fact, one-component plaster mixtures diluted with water. This solution is highly elastic and, when frozen, does not allow moisture to pass through.

Properly installed floor waterproofing allows you to protect the room from moisture and avoid leaks from the room.

In order to determine the filling level, you first need to measure the floor level and set it. This procedure allows you to identify the highest point of the floor level. Before you mark the level of the floor in the room and measure it, you need to draw a horizon line. This line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room and must necessarily close together, allowing for a millimeter error in connecting the lines. The horizon is marked at a height of 1 meter from the base.

To draw the horizon line, craftsmen choose the most convenient device for themselves:

• Laser level.
• Hydraulic level.
• Spirit level.

Before pouring the floor, its base is moistened with water and passed over with a leveler. Start the pouring process from the corner farthest from the door and gradually pull it towards the exit. The solution must be laid out between the beacons and then distributed evenly over the entire surface. The mixture should completely fill the space being leveled and voids. A rule is used for broaching. Touching at least two beacons, they are slightly moved in different directions, moving towards you. The surface of the rule must be smooth and free of defects. Only with this tool can a perfectly even coating be achieved.

A laser level or level gives a clear laser outline of lines that are visible even at a long distance. The quality of marking of this tool depends on its correct location. It is worth taking care of a suitable place for the device and its correct installation.

For proper operation When using the device, remove all obstacles in the path of the laser beam to avoid refraction. To avoid errors, the device is placed on optimal distance away from the walls and securely fixed on a flat surface.

Shaking and shaking of the laser level is unacceptable, since the accuracy of measurements depends on this. The bubble level built into most models allows you to level the level horizontally. The task is simplified by the self-leveling function. Having fulfilled all the requirements, you can start working.

The water level (hydraulic level) works on the principle of communicating vessels. The device consists of two flasks with measuring scales, which are connected to each other by a long hose. Water is poured into the middle of each flask and into the hose. It is important to get rid of all bubbles when filling the hydraulic level.

Two people are involved in the measurement process. Having marked a height of 90-100 cm in one corner of the room, the participant attaches one scale to the mark. The second person places the vessel at the other corner. It is necessary to achieve the same indicators on both scales; to do this, the flask is moved up and down. And so the second person moves around the entire perimeter of the room. After marking the corners of the room, the horizon line is drawn using a construction cord.

A spirit level is the simplest device for checking the horizontality of planes. It is a unit with a glass tube with water mounted in the middle. There is a bubble in the tube, which is located in the middle if the plane is level with the horizon.

When the horizon line is drawn along the entire perimeter, the distance to the floor is measured from it. The zero level of the screed is determined minimum distance from the horizon to the base.

Next come simpler steps. The total thickness of the screed is marked from the top level of the coating. The distance from the horizon line to the mark is measured and transferred to the entire perimeter of the room. Next, we connect all the marks with construction cord. The screed will be laid out along this line.

In the same way, you can apply lines of layers of thermal insulation, bedding, and top coating used in floor screed.

When the marks are made, you can begin placing beacons. The distance between beacons should not exceed the length of the rule, which is used to stretch the mixture. The quality of the filling depends on the supplied guides. The most commonly used are metal profiles or wooden slats.

The vacated space is filled with screed mortar. The use of beacons is recommended even on small work sites. Correct Application technology for placing beacons guarantees a smooth surface of the poured floor.

Preparation of the solution

Having calculated all the necessary proportions and determined the required volume of ingredients for the solution, you can begin mixing. It is worth remembering that mixing dry ingredients occurs separately from liquid ones. The process uses different containers. Using a mixer or manually, cement is thoroughly mixed with sand in the selected proportions.

The liquid components are mixed in another clean container. To achieve the plasticity of the mixture, a plasticizer is added to the water in the amount specified by the manufacturer. Most often, 200 g of plasticizer is diluted per 50 kg of cement mixture. Thanks to this component, the screed becomes more durable. It is recommended to mix the solution in portions so that it does not lose its plastic properties. Water makes up one third of the weight of cement.

Dry ingredients begin to be added to the liquid mass. This is a slow and gradual process. It is important to constantly stir the solution. Under no circumstances should liquids be poured into a dry mixture., this is fraught with the formation of dense lumps that cannot be stirred.

When the mixture becomes viscous and thick, like dough, and there are no lumps in it, you can start screeding. It may be difficult to apply such a mass, since it is easier to distribute the liquid solution. But with such a consistency, the possibility of cracks appearing is significantly reduced. To avoid cracking, experts recommend periodically wetting the surface with water during drying.

The distribution of the solution should be carried out in a short time so that its properties do not have time to change.

Fill

In a new building, you can pour the solution onto polystyrene foam, onto the ground, laminate flooring, under tiles, etc. In a Khrushchev-era building, you can use the leveler in the toilet, on the balcony, in the kitchen and in other rooms. It is advisable that the heating pipes are not turned on at full power.

Lay a liquid floor with glass or polystyrene foam on German technology It’s entirely possible on your own. It will be good basis for an electric floor that will help retain heat in the house.

Before pouring the floor, its base is moistened with water and passed over with a leveler. Start the pouring process from the corner farthest from the door and gradually pull it towards the exit. The solution must be laid out between the beacons and then distributed evenly over the entire surface. The mixture should completely fill the space being leveled and voids. A rule is used for broaching. Touching at least two beacons, they are slightly moved in different directions, moving towards you. The surface of the rule must be smooth and free of defects. Only with this tool can a perfectly even coating be achieved.

To minimize the appearance of air bubbles while laying the floor, shake the solution a little. You can use a wire to pierce the flooded floor if you cannot get rid of the voids. Beacons are removed after 24 hours.

In addition to everything mentioned above, the masters give several useful tips so that the self-leveling floor is made efficiently and reliably:

• You should not use a solution of a grade below 150, due to low indicators the strength of the coating may not withstand the load.
• Finding clean sand for cement-sand mortar in an urban environment can be a difficult task. Therefore, when choosing sand, look at its construction characteristics, and if it is not possible to purchase sifted material, do it yourself.

• When choosing a wet screed, you should not use cardboard, fiberboard or plywood as beacons, as they can easily deform under the weight of the solution.
• If the floor is leveled in several layers, the layers should be primed at each stage of pouring.
• Rolled material for waterproofing is only suitable for wet screed, but this cannot be done when using a self-leveling mixture, since such mixtures do not adhere well to the surface of rolled materials and defects such as cracks may appear.
• The cement mortar is prepared after installing the beacons, since its service life is slightly less than an hour, and after hardening it will be impossible to work with the mortar.
• It is necessary to mix the cement in portions so that it does not harden.

• To find out if the poured floor is dense enough, apply pressure to it while it is still wet. If a hole with liquid of decent depth has formed, then it is worth paying attention to the viscosity of the mixture and making the solution thicker.
• The rule will help check the clarity of the horizontal line in all directions.
• You can only step on a flooded floor if you have special shoes in which the weight is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the foot. Finish coating can be applied no earlier than after 40 days, whereas you can walk on a dry floor after a week.
• After carrying out the main work, you should carefully monitor the drying process of the floor. Sometimes the solution is covered with a film to prevent cracks from forming on the surface.

• Within a week after finishing work on the floor, it is moistened for a stronger coating. This prevents the possibility of peeling and crumbling. You should not make puddles, you just need to distribute the moisture evenly.
• It is not recommended to open windows and allow the air temperature to drop. This may have a detrimental effect on the result.

Creating a floor screed can be expensive if you invite specialists to perform this procedure. But not many people know that screeding a floor with your own hands can be done just as well. So it makes sense to do this yourself, because the installation technology is very simple, and a training video will help you with this. Any person who decides to do this type of work needs to be able to properly prepare the solution and deftly install beacons.

IN multi-storey buildings The floors are separated from each other using special floor slabs. For one apartment such a slab acts as a ceiling, and for another as a floor. In order for these slabs to fully perform their functions, they require finishing. Sometimes it can be labor-intensive and costly. And if finishing the ceiling today is quite simple (the market offers high-quality finishing materials), then finishing the floor is not so easy.

Floor screed in an apartment

There are just as many floor coverings made, but the problem is that you cannot lay any covering on an unfinished floor. You will definitely need a floor screed in your apartment. Its main function is . It should be quite durable, capable of heavy loads.

The main purpose

1. Surface leveling;
2. Increased surface strength;
3. Improved heat retention;
4. Creating slopes on the floor when laying the final covering.

The qualitative differences of each type will depend on the material used. Kinds:

• Concrete;

Light or lightweight concrete can be used as a material. In some cases, a reinforcing substance is added to concrete. There are other types:

• Plaster;
• Xylitol;
• Epoxy;
• Anhydrite;
• Mosaic;
• Asphalt.

Increasingly began to be used innovative technology production of self-leveling floor. It is based on ready-made mixtures created according to special recipes. Such mixtures are called leveling mixtures.

Self-leveling floor manufacturing technology

Sometimes a combination of mixtures is allowed. In this case, a mixture with coarse aggregate is used in the bottom layer. A finer aggregate is placed in the top layer. If you choose a mixture, it is worth carefully inspecting the material. Mixture High Quality has perfect grey colour no shade of red.

Watch a video on how to determine the quality of a mixture. Video:

Concrete can be placed directly on the slab, or after the insulating material.

The technology for its manufacture is quite simple, but has its own nuances. An instructional video will help you understand how to do it.

First you need to prepare the base

Clear the surface of debris. After this, it is worth sealing all the cracks with cement mortar. Observe the room temperature when laying the mortar. It should not exceed +25 and be below -10 degrees. Close all doors and windows. If you plan to create thermal insulation, then the necessary materials are laid on the primed surface.

Think about how to waterproof your walls. To do this, you can use a strip of roofing material, which is glued along the bottom of the fence so that its top is about twenty centimeters higher than the screed at the top. Level zero is the starting point for all future work.

The evenness of the coating and the amount of materials used will depend on how well this level of beating technology is followed.

To complete this process faster and easier, you can use a laser level. Make one mark first and then make marks on the other walls of the room.

As a result, they can be connected to each other using a special bevel. The thickness of the screed should be at least 3 centimeters. Before you start laying, you need to install beacons. These are guides that are installed along the horizon.

Today you can buy inexpensive metal beacon profiles. Beacons should be mounted on plaster. Use a bubble level to ensure correct installation. The video will tell you more about how to install beacons correctly.

To make the solution, you will need a concrete mixer. If you don’t have a concrete mixer, you can try mixing the mixture by hand. Once you have prepared the solution, it must be used up within a couple of hours maximum. Types of subfloor for creating a screed:

1. Concrete, the filler here is coarse-grained components;
2. Cement-sand, in this case a dry cement mixture is prepared with the addition of quartz.

Filling is carried out from the farthest corner of the room. After this, the aluminum rule is pulled through. It is necessary for alignment.

The first strip is placed along the wall at the zero level. Then the remaining rows are applied sequentially. This technology allows you to completely fill the entire floor. Over the next week, the floor screed device is wetted with water. This is important for the correct formation of the concrete stone. You should not forcefully speed up the hardening process of concrete.

Complete hardening will occur no earlier than after 4 weeks.

Otherwise, the concrete pour may lose its strength. As you can see, the technology is quite simple. It’s worth summarizing all the nuances of the work once again.

1. If you are screeding the floor yourself, special attention should be paid to the beacons. The evenness of the coating will depend on how correctly they are installed.
2. Leveling and laying the mortar also have a significant impact on the subsequent evenness of the floor.
3. Drying. The completed screed must be thoroughly dried for a month. Only after this can the flooring be installed on it. A detailed video will help you complete the job high level quality.

As for financial costs, it all depends on whether it is a rough screed or an ideal one. For the first, the costs will be several times less. Also, the cost will depend on whether reinforcement was performed. The type is also important. For example, pour a concrete screed immediately onto wooden beams not worth it. They will need to be replaced with metal ones. After this, reinforcement is required.

Reinforcement in progress

Foam concrete screed is the most economical. But it cannot be laid on the ground. In addition, its surface must be covered with a layer of protection. This coating is very strong and durable. That is why builders use it so often in their work.

If you have already done the floor screed yourself, it is worth assessing the quality of the work done. Several methods are used for this.

1. Inspection. Its color should be uniform, it itself should be even.
2. Gap detection. If the gaps are no more than 4 millimeters, then we can assume that the job is done well.
3. Hardness test. Apply a few blows with a hammer. If the structure is strong, then there will be practically no marks left on it.

If you find a defect, you can use a special leveling compound. It is applied in a thin layer.

Apply in a thin layer

If you notice cracks on the surface, you need to widen them and seal them with a primer, and then cover them with BUC. If there are too many cracks, the filling must be done again.

Before you make a floor screed with your own hands, it is important to calculate the quantity required material.

Calculate the amount of material needed

According to experts, it is necessary to take about ten bags of mixture per 7 square meters of area. If you do not use a ready-made mixture, it is worth carrying out a simple calculation. For example, your room is 50 square meters in area. If the planned height is 5 centimeters, then the calculation will be as follows: 50 sq. m. * 0.05 = 2.5 sq. m. The mixture is prepared in a ratio of 1:4 cement and sand. This means you will need 0.5 sq. m. cement and 2 sq. m. sand.

Please also take into account the fact that during the preparation of the mixture it may decrease in volume. So it is worth preparing a little more mixture than necessary.

Floor screed is a universal and most popular method of floor leveling.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a floor screed in an apartment, a training video will help you understand it in more detail. The detailed installation technology was discussed above.

Video

In this video you will learn how to screed a floor with your own hands.
Thanks to this material you will receive a lot of useful information.

Photo source: pol-spec.ru, incorros.ru

A screed is a layer between the concrete base of the floor and its top covering. It is necessary for high-quality leveling of the floor. The durability of the work result depends on the screed. Installation of the screed is necessary regardless of the type of coating used: parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.

By manufacturing method

1. Wet. It is a cement-sand mixture. A special dry composition is also sold - it is made on a cement base or using gypsum. It is poured over and the surface is completely leveled. If cement or sand was used for the screed, the surface is reinforced. Dry mixtures do not require this procedure. The option is universal and common in construction. 10 cm or less is the optimal layer thickness.
2. Dry. Also called prefabricated screed. It is a structure made of large sheets with a thickness of 15 to 30 mm. In case of strong differences in surface levels, the dryness of the screed will not allow achieving the desired degree of leveling. Then, under the floor covering, a layer of dry screed is placed on top of the wet one.
3. Semi-dry. It differs from the classic, wet production method by a significantly smaller amount of water in the mixture. The advantages of this type of screed are the short period of time between laying the screed and the floor, and the absence of leaks. The presence of fiber fiber in the mixture allows to minimize the number of shrinkage cracks.

   
   

Mechanized semi-dry floor screed ensures a minimum amount of construction waste after installation. The mixture is usually mixed outside and supplied through a hose. For convenience, you can contact companies involved in laying semi-dry floor screed. One of these, “EUROSTROY 21 CENTURY” (company website www.prestigehouse.ru), uses in its work modern technology and German technologies.

By number of layers

1. Single layer. It is laid at a time to the required thickness.
2. Multilayer. Consists of rough and finishing surfaces. For example, to ensure rigidity at the junction of the slabs with the floor, first lay rough concrete option, and when finishing, an absolutely smooth finishing screed is laid on top. The rough screed thickness is 20 mm or more, the finishing screed is from 3 to 20 mm.

By connection type

1. Solid. It is firmly adhered to the base coating layer.
2. Floating. Not connected to anything. It is used when it is necessary to use a film with waterproofing properties, as well as sound or heat insulation. The optimal thickness is 35 mm or more.

Screed materials

Cement is the most common binder for screeds, as is gypsum. The following fillers improve the properties of the mixture: sand, polymers, mineral-based additives. To obtain the required consistency, the composition is diluted with water.

1. . Its screed is moisture-resistant and can be used for any type of floor structure. Cement is mixed with sand, the optimal ratio is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.

   There is also sand concrete - a mixture sold in stores. Sand concrete has a drawback - rapid shrinkage. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the uniformity of the composition and the thickness of the poured layer, which must be at least 30 mm, otherwise the screed will crack.

   To ensure uniform stress distribution and protection from cracking, the screed is reinforced from the inside or a portion of propylene-based fiber is added to the solution. After installation, the screed is periodically wetted for approximately 10-14 days. The screed takes a long time to dry and for moisture-sensitive coatings - laminate and parquet - it will remain too wet for at least 20 days.

2. Gypsum. Plastic, easy to install screed. It does not shrink, it can be laid in a thin layer. Complete drying in 1-2 days. Recommended for wooden floors. But it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity, as the gypsum will become like dough. If polymers are added to the plaster, the screed can be used in rooms with moderate humidity.
3. Concrete. In terms of composition and manufacturing technology, concrete screed is similar to cement screed. The main difference is that cellular concrete is added to the mixture. There are different types of concrete screed: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
4. Self-leveling or self-leveling mixture. Sold ready-made, intended for various floor coverings. It can be thin-layer, from 2 to 7 mm, and thick-layer, from 5 to 30 mm. If the floor unevenness is large, first make a rough rough screed, and put a self-leveling mixture on top.
5. . The composition is similar to drywall. It is a durable building board coated with a waterproofing compound. Laying is done on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. The slabs are laid slightly overlapping each other to close the joints. The main advantage of the screed is that you don’t have to wait for it to dry. Final coating floors can be installed the next day. Often used for installing screeds in apartments.

Materials

1. 1. 1. Concrete mixer.
      2. Hydraulic level.
      3. Rule.
      4. Construction bubble level.
      5. Master OK.
      6. Drill with mixing attachment.
      7. Stationery knife.
      8. Bucket.
      9. Pencil, marker.
      10. Roulette.
      11. Ruler.

Stages of work

Stage 1. Defining the horizon

The zero level is measured using a spirit level - otherwise called the water level. Marks are placed in all rooms. Optimal height- from 1.2 to 1.5 m from the floor level. The starting mark can be placed anywhere. The second and all subsequent ones are marked by the water level along the horizon, but not the floor.

All points are connected and a zero level is obtained. Throughout all installation work it will define the horizontal plane. Check the zero level accuracy several times.

Sometimes expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. Then they retreat a few cm from the marked point and make an additional line for pouring the selected pillow material along this level under the screed.

Stage 2. Determine elevation differences

This is necessary to calculate the correct screed level and the required volume of solution.

IN different rooms measure the distance from the old floor to the zero level point. We write the resulting value at each measurement location. It is better to make more points so that the measurements are more accurate. The minimum value is the maximum level of the old floor, and highest value shows it minimum height. The difference in values ​​is the difference in height of the old floor.

For example, max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

That is, the height difference is 5 cm.

30 mm – minimum thickness cement screed, where a plasticizer is added. We mentioned earlier that otherwise cracks will appear along the screed. Builders sometimes add as a plasticizer liquid soap. And on the packaging of the self-leveling mixture, the manufacturer indicates optimal thickness layer.

For multi-level screeds, calculate the difference in heights. Height differences in floor level at the joints of coverings are not allowed. The screed is planned differently according to levels: the thickness of the coatings is not identical. The difference in it must be compensated for by differences in screed levels.

Let's say in the kitchen - ceramic tile, the room has parquet. The layer under parquet will be thicker than for tiles, and it is multi-layered. We sum up the thickness of all layers, including the parquet itself, and subtract the sum of the tile layers, including the tile itself. We get a screed difference. It is recommended to take a spare 2 mm from the tile side if the layer for the parquet turns out to be higher.

Stage 3. Surface preparation

Clean the base coat. A construction vacuum cleaner is usually used. If it is missing, you can simply sweep it well, then wash everything with a regular cleaning agent. Using a primer you can do additional dust removal. It is optimal to use the Betonokontakt product - it provides good adhesion for the screed and the base, making the surface rough.

Temporary waterproofing is required for partitions and walls. For this purpose, you can use roofing material. The height of the roofing felt tape is 10-15 cm from the level of the screed.

Next, we inspect the base. Peelings are not allowed, they must be cleaned. If there are large cracks, cover them with a thick mortar based on non-shrink cement. If the floors were “ironized” during construction or coated with “cement milk”, then the film is removed so that there is proper adhesion to the base coating.

Stage 4. Placing beacons

The screed is aligned along them. Typically, rigid elements are used as these - metal profiles that can be fixed in a stationary position and not be afraid that they will bend at an unnecessary moment.

The mounting method is different: you can build a slide from cement or simply screw the beacons into the floor. An important requirement is the parallelism of the guides. The distance between adjacent ones should allow you to put on the ends of the rail, along which the composition will be leveled.

Using a rack level, the beacons are aligned in length and in relation to each other. Where differences in height occur, plywood formwork is placed so that the solution cannot flow into another room or area.

Stage 5. Mixing the composition and pouring the screed

Few people do it manually; more often they use a concrete mixer - this way the composition turns out to be more uniform. You should not increase the proportion of water to make the mixture homogeneous, otherwise the screed will be fragile. For this purpose, special additives are sold that make the solution plastic and homogeneous.

The filling should resemble a thick dough without lumps, spreading, but not spreading over the surface. It is used for 1-1.5 hours and in one go. It is not allowed to leave it for several days. Also, you should not flood the room in parts over several days. The exception is different levels of screed or different rooms.

The solution is poured between the beacons and leveled with a rule, which is moved strictly along the beacons, shifting the excess mixture. To level the surface of the screed, the rule is to additionally make left-right movements.

The process of leveling a concrete mass using a rule

Video - Floor screed

Stage 6. Post-installation care

A simple operation, often ignored by workers. It consists of watering the coating 2 times a day. If this is not done, the screed will crack. The watering period is 10 days.

The cement screed needs up to 28 days until it becomes strong enough. The chemical processes that occur require a sufficient amount of moisture.

The beacons are pulled out approximately 3 days after the installation of the screed is completed. The recesses are primed and filled with a new portion of the solution. After this, we wet the coating again and cover it with polyethylene film for 2 weeks. In some cases, this is not recommended, then moisturizing is also done often - 2 times a day.

Stage 7. Checking the work

It is done in several stages.

The floor screed is the part of the base that is located between the ceiling and the finishing coating. Without it, it is impossible to make the floors perfectly level - so that even the most demanding finishing material in terms of installation conditions can be laid on them without danger. You can’t do without it when building a house and even during overhaul, but how to make a floor screed is a very difficult question for many. Let's try to figure out how to create it with our own hands.

A screed is not only a structural element of the floor responsible for its leveling. It also performs other equally important functions - for example, it takes on and redistributes all the loads experienced by the floor covering. But still, the most important function of the screed is leveling the base. It is necessary in order to easily and correctly lay the floor covering, some types of which are quite demanding regarding the evenness of the subfloor. For example, ceramic tiles, parquet and other materials will quickly become unusable if they are used while lying on an uneven floor. They will begin to break and collapse, and when moving across the coating it will make an unpleasant squeak.

Another function that the screed performs is increasing the heat, sound and waterproofing properties of floors. It also makes it easy to raise the base level to the required level if necessary.

What kind of screed is there?

Floor screed can be divided into different types according to several criteria. For example, depending on the manufacturing method, it can be dry, wet, or combined.

Table. Main types of screeds.

View	Description and characteristics
	This option is made without the use of heavy mortars. The technology is used to level floors with very large differences in height (up to 11 cm), as well as in rooms where floors cannot experience significant loads. In this case, the dry screed can be laid along the joists and made of plywood or chipboard, or made from sheets of gypsum fiber, which is laid on an expanded clay backing. The thickness of the screed can be quite large. Dry screed is easy to use, does not require drying after production, is very light, and does not put a load on the floors and foundation of the building.
	This screed can also be called concrete or cement. The most familiar and most frequently used method of leveling and raising the floor. As a rule, it is used for the initial stage of leveling floors or subfloors. It is made on the basis of cement with the addition of fillers, laid in a layer of 3 cm or more. Difficult to work with, takes a long time to dry, but is very strong and durable. Unfortunately, it exerts significant pressure on the ceiling due to its considerable weight, and therefore cannot be used for all types of buildings. For 1 sq.m. account for at least 100-120 kg mortar– the mass is quite impressive.
	This type of screed combines the main advantages and, in some way, the technology of wet and self-leveling screeds.
	This method is good because there is no need to use beacons and somehow monitor the evenness of the finished base. The fact is that special mixtures are used for production, which tend to self-level on the surface of the subfloor. Such compositions are quite expensive, and they can be used to fill floors with uneven surfaces up to 2 cm. Often, using this method, you can additionally level a regular cement screed.

Screeds are also divided into different types depending on the number of layers. So they happen single-layer(poured immediately at one time to the required thickness) and multilayer. The latter have the so-called rough and finishing surfaces. As a rule, the rough base has a thickness of 2 cm or more, and the finishing base has a thickness of 3-20 mm.

According to the type of connection to the floors, screeds can be divided into solid and floating. The first has a reliable connection with the rough base, the second has no connection with anything. Hydro- and heat-insulating materials are used for installation.

What can be used to create a screed?

Depending on the type of screed, they can be made of various materials. So, cement, water and sand are used to create a wet screed. In this case, cement acts as a binding material, and sand becomes a filler. To improve the quality of building mixtures, various components can be added to them to improve strength and reduce drying time.

On a note! To prepare such a mixture, you need to mix 1 part cement with 3 parts sand. The required amount of water is added to them. This is a fairly economical option.

To create a wet screed, ready-made sand concrete sold in stores can also be used. Its main drawback is high speed shrinkage. Because of this, the thickness of the screed layer cannot be less than 3 cm, otherwise it will quickly become covered with cracks.

Advice! To reduce the risk of cracking of the screed, fiber fibers are added to the raw composition or layers of reinforcing mesh are laid on the rough base.

For wooden floors, gypsum-based mixtures are used. This material can be laid in a thin layer, as it practically does not shrink. Drying times are also attractive - only 1-2 days. The only exception in terms of the use of such compounds is high humidity indoors.

Self-leveling or usually used for finishing leveling of conventional wet screed. The reason is the fairly high cost of the material. This composition is used to level floors with unevenness of 2-7 mm.

For manufacturing, you will need sheet materials such as plasterboard, as well as medium and fine expanded clay for filling the base. The joints of individual sheets of material are treated with adhesives.

How to make a floor screed

The installation of floor screeds invariably raises questions among beginners. Below are instructions for creating dry, wet and semi-dry screed. However, no matter what option is chosen by the craftsmen, in any case, before starting work, it is important to prepare a rough foundation.

Features of base preparation

To begin with, if the house was not built from scratch, you will need to get rid of the old flooring. Moreover, you will have to remove the old screed down to the ceiling. It is especially important to repair any flaws present on the base. These could be cracks, chips, or any gaps. All this needs to be sealed with sealant or cement composition after preliminary priming, in order to avoid too much consumption of mixtures (relative to a wet screed) and to increase the adhesion of the compositions to the base.

Preparing the base for the screed - photo

On a note! Sometimes a new screed is poured directly on top of the old one, but this is only permissible if the previous version of the base is strong enough. However, most likely only an experienced specialist will be able to assess the condition of the old screed. Sometimes it is even enough to simply use self-leveling compounds to make the old base perfectly level.

You can clear the ceiling from the old screed using a jackhammer. Next, the base is cleared of construction waste, which is placed in durable bags and taken to a landfill.

Small protrusions on old screed can be removed using a sanding machine. After preparation, it is important to prime the base in order to increase adhesion.

Making a wet screed

Step 1. First of all, get everything ready necessary tools and materials. This is a building level, slats that will act as beacons, screws and dowels, building mixtures, sand and cement, usually a hammer drill.

An even, smooth, beautiful floor in the house is the dream of every owner, and its quality mainly depends on the screed. Depending on the features, purpose of the room and the preferences of the owner, the floor screed can be concrete, semi-dry, dry, etc. In any case, this is a rather difficult process that requires preparation.

How to make a floor screed correctly? Before starting work, familiarize yourself with its stages, technology and consult a specialist. The installation of any screed requires, first of all, a prepared foundation. Preparation of the floor surface for screed does not depend on the selected type of screed and device technology.

Important so that the surface is dry, clean, durable. For better adhesion and strengthening of the material, you additionally need to prime the base.

When the surface is completely prepared, determine the zero level - this is the optimal horizontal height of the floor screed. To do this, select the top point of the base ( laser level) and mark the walls using it. Further, the technology of floor screed depends on the selected material.

Concrete screed device

The composition of the concrete screed includes river sand and cement. Thanks to modern technologies You can add other material that can affect the quality of the mixture. For example, expanded clay makes the screed light. Various plasticizers and additives are also used to help speed up or slow down the drying process.

Tool for screeding and material required for work:

• water or laser level;
• rule;
• ruler level;
• Master OK;
• ruler;
• putty knife;
• construction mixer for mixing mortar;
• screwdrivers, self-tapping screws;
• aluminum profile for drywall;
• cement composition.

Remove old finishing material before concrete base or floor slabs. Clean and prime the surface thoroughly.

Use a level to mark the perimeter of the room. Start from the corners. Make as many intermediate marks and measurements as possible to achieve a horizontal floor in the room.

Set up beacons that will serve as aluminum profiles or other materials. Secure them with cement.

To level the floor, you can use plywood, placing it under the profile. You can also use self-tapping screws plastic stoppers, which are easily adjustable in height by twisting or unscrewing.

Preparation of the composition

You can buy a ready-made mixture and dilute it with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you cook it yourself, follow all proportions. As a rule, for every part of cement, 3 parts of sand and water are required. Its quantity varies, the main thing is that the consistency is similar to liquid sour cream. Prepare the mixture per meter of pouring so that it does not dry out.

How to properly fill a floor screed and make the floor perfect?

Fill the solution up to the tops of the beacons. Start with the smallest area of ​​the room.

Level with the rule and fill. If the height difference is large, then you should use expanded clay. It will help lighten the weight of the screed and save on cement.

Drying out moisten the screed with water so that cracks do not form on it. It can be covered with polyethylene film.

The time for final drying and acquisition of strength of the screed is 28-30 days.

Semi-dry screed with fiber fiber

Sometimes used semi-dry screed floors in the apartment, but it has more complex technology. Let's look at the option using fiber fibers: the main difference is that the composition is not liquid, but semi-dry, which needs to be compacted.

Fiber fiber is used instead reinforcing mesh, the use of which has its drawbacks. During operation, the mesh rusts, peels off, cracks, etc. Application polypropylene fiber when installing screeds, it eliminates almost all the disadvantages that were noted when using steel reinforcement.

Polypropylene fiber gives the screed resistance to temperature changes, long time does not delaminate, does not wear off, no damage or cracks will appear on it. Semi-dry screed with fiber can be floating, tied and untied.

Advantages semi-dry screed using fiber:

• cracks practically do not form;
• thanks to the plasticity of the fiber, the work is greatly facilitated;
• fiber is practically not subject to fire;
• this mixture is frost-resistant;
• the positive qualities of fiber are preserved over a long period of operation;
• After 12 hours you can walk on this screed.

Preparing the mixture with fiber

To prepare the mixture we will need fiberglass, Portland cement and clean sifted sand. Substances that retain moisture and prevent rapid hardening can be added to the mixture. Thanks to this, you can work with the mixture for several hours.

Observe all proportions when preparing the mixture. Excess cement will cause cracks, and too little will make the screed brittle. Typically, one part cement and 3 parts sand are used. Moreover, components are taken not by weight, but by volume. This screed will not collapse for a long time.

Sequence and features of installation:

• The layer of such screed should be up to 40 mm.
• Clean the surface thoroughly before pouring the floor screed.
• The consistency of the mixture should resemble wet sand.
• To achieve precise horizontal surfaces, use beacons.
• Apply the mixture in an even layer and level it 1 cm above the beacons, as the screed will shrink.
• Compact the leveled screed with a roller.

Technological features of dry screed

The technology of dry floor screeding has become widespread among craftsmen today. It is suitable both for the construction of new buildings and for significant repairs of old structures. Its main convenience is that do it very quickly, A Can be used after just a few hours. Judging by the name, you can understand that such a screed on the floor of an apartment is made with dry materials.

Advantages:

• the finished coating does not require sanding;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• this screed is suitable for large differences surface height;
• high strength and ability to withstand high loads;
• minimum completion time;
• easy installation of drywall or other finishing material on the screed;
• The screed is also ideal for underfloor heating;
• no wet work or heavy concrete mix;
• ease of installation of various communications;
• Possibility of installation in winter.

Main stages:

Place a durable polyethylene film (200-250 microns thick) on the base. You can also use glassine and other vapor barrier materials. To ensure sound insulation and prevent deformation from temperature effects, leave a gap of about 1 cm across the entire wall area, which is filled with soundproofing material.

Fill with dry, fine-grained material that will ensure minimal shrinkage of the screed. the material must also have excellent flowability, high porosity, and mineral composition. Here you can use expanded clay screenings, fine-grained slag, quartz sand, expanded perlite sand, etc.

If the height of the screed exceeds 60 mm, then reinforce it with an additional layer of slabs.

Carefully level and compact the filled material.

Next, lay sheet material and secure it with self-tapping screws (waterproof plywood, plasterboard, asbestos-cement boards, chipboard and other sheet material). The material must be glued together, and the seams must be puttied and sanded.

Read about how to do it - installation and installation technology sliding doors in the apartment.

Read about the technology of pouring floors - the subtleties and nuances of the pouring process are described in detail.

Cover the top of the dry screed with bitumen waterproofing, then after 12 hours lay the finishing coating.

Screed for heated floors

Each technology is suitable for a heated floor system. To retain heat, it is necessary to place under the screed thermal insulation material. After this, use the selected floor heating option (electric, cable, water, infrared). Carry out this stage according to the instructions for laying heated floors. Now perform the screed using any technology.

Now the screed needs time to dry, after which the topcoat is laid.

Remember! Any work related to leveling the surface begins only after preparing the base. Otherwise, all your efforts will be in vain. The screed will be of poor quality and will soon require additional repairs.

Watch the video tutorial on how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands, in in this case– dry, as the most convenient and fastest option: