How to prepare American blueberries for wintering in the fall? How to plant blueberries on the plot and provide them with proper care? Preparing blueberries for winter in the Urals.

home

Internet

Watering

If you decide to plant blueberry seedlings on your site, then do not forget to keep the planting hole moist and prevent it from drying out. If you don’t have many blueberry bushes, then it is very convenient and effective to use a watering can - you will not wash away the mulch, as can happen when watering with a hose under high pressure. Soil moisture should be 60-70% of the full field moisture capacity.

At the dacha, it is better to water blueberry bushes 2 times a week, one bucket of water per adult bush. twice a day (better evening). Abundant watering necessary in July-August, since at this time blueberries bear fruit, and at the same time they are laid flower buds, forming next year's harvest. If there is not enough moisture, then you you will significantly lose your harvest not only this year, but also next year.

If the street is settled heat air for several days, then in addition to watering, you need to spray the bushes for cooling after lunch at 16:00. Thanks to spraying, stress from overheating is reduced and the rate of photosynthesis increases.

Mulching

Mulching - covering the surface of the earth around the plant different materials to maintain moisture in the top layer of soil. You can mulch blueberry bushes with straw, leaves, pine needles, and best of all rotted pine sawdust or bark. The mulch layer can be from 4 to 15 centimeters.

With mulching you will get rid of weeds and create optimal conditions for supporting optimal humidity substrate in which blueberry bushes grow. A layer of mulch allows the plants to bud a little later in the spring, which helps blueberries cope with fluctuations in winter and spring temperatures.

Note!

When mulching blueberry bushes fresh sawdust There is an intensive consumption of nitrogen from the soil, which is so necessary for blueberries, and because of this, blueberry bushes begin to grow poorly. Therefore, before mulching, you need to add a double amount of nitrogen fertilizer to the soil (when mulching in the spring; when mulching Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied in winter).

Mineral nutrition and fertilizer application

Garden blueberries need mineral fertilizers. The amount and composition of fertilizers applied must be determined based on the characteristics of the soil in each specific suburban area.

Determining the deficiency or excess of nutrients when examining blueberry bushes.

With sufficient quantity nitrogen plants are relatively large dark green leaves and strong growth. With a deficiency of this element, shoot growth first slows down, then old leaves acquire a yellowish-green tint. At significant nitrogen deficiency the plant turns yellow-green, then the leaves on it acquire a reddish tint, growth slows down, and the yield and size of the berries decrease sharply. Young shoots growing under nitrogen deficiency have a distinct pink color, and after growth stops they become pale green.

Excess nitrogen causes active growth of shoots, which continues until late autumn. As a result, the shoots do not have time to ripen and become lignified, which leads to them freezing or death V winter period.

Often manufacturers, trying accelerate the growth of seedlings blueberries, overfeed them with nitrogen. As a result, the bushes look very tall, and they can be sold to you as 3 or 4 years old, but in fact the bush is only 2 years old. But this is not dangerous - the danger is that such bushes may die over the winter or some of the shoots may freeze significantly. It is very easy to identify overfed bushes in October-November, when all high-quality bushes acquire beautiful decorative look: red foliage. Overfed blueberry bushes have the color of leaves and shoots green or dark green. Have you ever seen this?

At phosphorus deficiency the tops of the leaves turn purple-green and their bases dark purple. Over time, all leaves will take on a purple hue and a leathery texture. The degree of manifestation of the symptom depends on the illumination of the bushes: under bright sunlight, the purple color is clearly visible, but in shading or cloudiness it may disappear. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves themselves are pressed closely to the stem (while usually they are located at a right angle).

At potassium deficiency First, the tops of the leaves die, then necrotic spots appear in the middle and along the edges of the leaves. As the deficiency of this element increases, the edges of the leaves warp. On young leaves, yellowing between the veins is observed from time to time. The grown shoots die off, with the black tip clearly visible. At times there is a strong growth of branching shoots from the lateral buds, which also die off after a while.

Calcium. Vivid symptoms There is no shortage of this element. Most noticeable are warped leaves with yellowed edges. A slight yellow-green spotting appears on the apical leaves, the edges turn yellow. From time to time the leaves form sockets. The top of the sheet warps and may fall off.

Magnesium deficiency easily recognized by the bright red edges of older leaves. The red coloring along the edges and between the veins contrasts strongly with the green color that predominates in the center of the leaf near the midrib (resembling a Christmas tree). With intense sunlight Necrotic spots are found, and instead of a red color, yellow or brown shades appear.

Boron deficiency recognized by the blue color of the apical leaves, which abruptly stop growing. Then, on older leaves, slight yellowing between the veins is detected, and on young leaves, yellowish dots appear. The leaves are distorted. The shoots stop growing and dry out. At times, the death of shoots leads to the formation of “witches’ brooms” (the development of shoots from underlying buds begins, which then also die).

On iron deficiency indicates yellowing near the veins of young apical leaves. Further, the symptoms appear in the form of a network of green veins against the background of a lemon coloring of the entire leaf at the tops of the shoots. Lack of iron has an extremely negative effect on plant growth and fruiting.

Manganese deficiency, like iron deficiency, manifests itself on young leaves in the form of yellowing between the veins. The difference is that the green color near the vein has a wider border. Over time, the yellowed areas along the edges of the leaves die off. Necrotic spots appear throughout the leaf, which gradually merge and the leaf dies.

Zinc deficiency blueberry disease manifests itself as yellowing of young leaves, with the entire leaf turning lemon yellow. The leaves do not grow, become small and narrow, and form rosettes, as the internodes also shrink.

Sulfur. A sign of starvation are chlorotic spots on the leaves, and in case of acute deficiency, a yellowish-white color appears on them. In severe cases, the leaves turn whitish-pink or even white. Lack of sulfur in the soil leads to an increase in pH (indicator) and deterioration in activity mycorrhizae. On soils with a pH of 5 units, it is recommended to apply 50 grams, and on soils with a pH of 6.0 - 100 grams of sulfur per 1 m2. The use of sulfate forms of fertilizers is an additional source of sulfur. Acidification of the soil with sulfuric acid (or electrolyte) has the same effect.

Signs copper deficiency appear primarily on the leaves. They become smaller and often curl upward. Older leaves turn brown and die, and the tops of the branches dry out. Sometimes, as with a lack of boron, numerous small branches grow from the lateral and dormant buds - “witches’ brooms”.

Molybdenum deficiency appears on young leaves of growing shoots in the form of chlorosis between the veins.

When is the best time to apply mineral fertilizers for blueberries?

– fertilizers should be applied at the beginning of spring (at the beginning of sap flow) or the beginning of bud swelling.

On soils with acidity () above 4.8, ammonium sulfate must be added twice per season at intervals of 6-7 weeks at the rate of 10-15 grams per 1 m2. On soils with an optimal pH level, it is recommended to apply 90 grams of ammonium sulfate, 40 grams of potassium sulfate and 110 grams of superphosphate per adult blueberry bush or 200-250 grams of Kemira-universal fertilizer (currently produced by the Fertiko company) or Polish fertilizer Florovit.

Scheme for applying mineral fertilizers.

For one two-year-old bush, 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is applied, for a three-year-old bush - 2, for a four-year-old plant - 4, for a five-year-old plant - 8, for a six-year and older bush - 16 tablespoons of complete mineral fertilizer.

Do not add organic fertilizers (manure, chicken droppings, even compost) to the soil or fertilize garden blueberries.

How to protect blueberry seedlings from frost?

Highbush blueberry able to tolerate frosts down to -23-25 °C (certain varieties, for example, up to -27-30 °C).

In severe snowless winters, there is a possibility of bushes freezing.

On personal plots blueberry bushes can be tied spruce branches or cover with spunbond, preferably burlap (do not use plastic film under any circumstances) after making a frame of stakes or two wire arches located crosswise near the bushes.

During the growing season(plant growth) a large dose of nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied to blueberry bushes, especially after flowering, so as not to cause shoot growth in late autumn. If there is an excess of nitrogen, some of the shoots will freeze in winter (the entire bush may die).

During flowering, blueberries tolerate frosts down to -7 °C. Therefore, in spring period protection is rarely needed. in autumn, during berry ripening, frost can damage late-ripening blueberry varieties. Green berries are damaged at temperatures of -2 °C. Therefore, to protect blueberry bushes in the autumn, it is necessary to use sprinkling or covering with any available material: spunbond or burlap.

When and how should you start pruning blueberry bushes?

Pruning blueberry bushes can be done on 2-4 year old plants, for laying a strong skeleton of the bush. It is necessary to remove all fruit buds on the plant.

Further pruning is required after the 3rd year after planting (that is, the plant will already be 5-6 years old). Only small bushy growths at the base of the bush, diseased branches and branches lying on the ground are removed.

Annual pruning plan starting from the 4th year of blueberry growing:

1) it is necessary to cut off low spreading branches near the ground, maintaining only erect growths;

2) if the middle of the bush is thickened, then inside it you need to cut out weak and very old branches;

3) majority small thin branches are removed, leaving strong skeletal branches and escapes. Of the annual shoots, it is advisable to leave the 5 strongest ones.

Blueberries bear fruit on the previous year's growth. The degree of pruning also depends on the intensity of shoot growth. If the variety is prone to strong shoot formation, such as, then severe pruning should be done.

Blueberries should be pruned in early spring, before the buds open. It is better to remove cut branches (shoots) from the site and burn them in order to prevent the development of diseases and pests on them after winter, which can cause infection for blueberry bushes.

Protecting a blueberry plantation from the winds.

If you plan to grow blueberries in industrial scale, then to protect the plantings you should create garden protection strips near the blueberry plantation. It is better to use pine or alder as plants for shelterbelts. Spruce and birch are not suitable, as their roots are shallow and over time can become serious competitors to blueberry roots.

Growing berry bushes in summer cottages has long become a tradition, but some of them are just gaining popularity among gardeners. This is blueberries, planting and caring for which have their own characteristics. You will have to pay a lot of attention to the shrubs in the garden, but it will pay off handsomely when the time comes to harvest the delicious sweet and sour berries. Healing properties possess not only blueberry fruits, but also its branches and leaves. Propagation of this amazingly useful plant will not cause difficulties even for novice gardeners.

Blueberry varieties

The types and varieties of blueberries are varied. Its uncultivated specimens are short in stature. Their height ranges from 40-100 cm. Wild blueberries are widespread in the northern regions. It prefers moist, swampy soils of coniferous forests and peat bogs, where it forms dense thickets.

Growing wild specimens of the crop in a summer cottage is a pointless exercise. For these purposes it is better to use seedlings hybrid varieties bush. The answer to the question why is obvious. Keeping beneficial features wild blueberries, they bring more yield, have larger berries, are more decorative and are less affected by diseases and pests. Among them there are also low-growing varieties that are ideal for cultivation in the Urals and Siberia. They are not afraid of severe frosts, and they are not damaged even under a thick layer of snow.

Tall bushes garden blueberry stretch up to 2-4 m. It originates from North America. In our country, it is more common in the southern regions. The climate of Siberia is too harsh for it, although it can be grown in open ground in the Urals if you take a responsible approach to preparing its bushes for wintering: bend the branches to the ground and carefully cover them with spruce branches. Canadian blueberries, which have narrow leaves, are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. It is surprisingly unpretentious, generous in yield and has increased frost resistance.

The most common varieties of highbush blueberries are:

Bluecrop;
Nelson;
Rancocas;
Patriot;
Northland;
Weymouth.

The Bluecrop and Patriot varieties are most often grown on an industrial scale. You can plant them in your dacha. Both varieties are distinguished by high productivity and unpretentiousness to living conditions.

Site requirements

In order for the plant’s berries to gain sweetness, they need a lot of heat and light. Therefore, planting garden blueberries is optimal in places open to sunlight. It must be taken into account that shrubs do not react well to drafts. The site must be carefully protected from them by the walls of buildings or a hedge of trees. The Bluecrop and Patriot varieties can grow in the shade; their leaves will not be damaged by it, but in this case the berries collected from them will be sour. The lack of light will also have a negative impact on their number.

For blueberries, loose, well-drained soils with low groundwater levels are preferred. It will be correct to plant it on peaty-sandy or peaty-loamy soils. It is worth remembering that such soil is rich in nitrogen. Due to the increased content of this element, plants may freeze in winter, and with the arrival of spring, their thawing will take longer than usual. The shrub develops well only in acidic soil with a pH in the range of 3.5-4.5.

It is important that no other crops have been previously grown in the area where blueberries are planned to be placed. If there is no such area in the garden, you will have to prepare soil suitable for the shrubs yourself according to the following rules.

Loamy soil is diluted with sand and high peat mixed in a ratio of 1:3.
Sand is added to acidic peat soil at the rate of 2-3 buckets per 1 m².
If the land on the site contains little organic fertilizers, complex mineral preparations containing equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are added to it.
The same mineral elements necessary for the full development of blueberries are added to the soil enriched with humus, but in a ratio of 1:2:3.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Garden blueberries can be propagated in spring or autumn. Professionals advise not to postpone the procedure until September and here's why. In the summer, in weather conditions favorable for the shrub, its seedlings will take root well, gain strength and become stronger so that the winter cold will not be scary for them. At autumn planting plants have a much higher risk of freezing.

In order for blueberry cultivation on your property to be successful, it is important to choose the right variety. You need to focus on the climate of the area and the ripening time of berries of a particular variety. Early or mid-ripening types of crops (Bluecrop, Patriot, Weymouth) are suitable for cultivation in central regions.

A guarantee of good survival of blueberry bushes on the site is high-quality planting material. It is recommended to purchase it in specialized stores or nurseries. It is better to choose seedlings whose roots are covered with soil, growing in a pot or other container. Transshipment method for planting them on permanent place won't do. In order for the shrub to quickly take root and fully develop in the future, its roots will need to be carefully straightened in the hole.

15 minutes before planting blueberries in the ground, place the container with it in water. Then the future bush is removed from the pot and the soil ball is carefully kneaded, straightening the roots. Only after such preparation can it be planted in the ground.

In spring, it is important not to be late with planting dates. The procedure must be carried out before the plant buds swell.

Planting scheme

Highbush blueberry seedlings are placed in pre-prepared pits. Their width should be 0.6 m and depth – 0.5 m. The distance between the holes depends on the selected plant variety. An interval of 0.5 m will be enough for short varieties of blueberries. Medium-sized and tall varieties (Bluecrop, Patriot and the like) will need more free space. The interval between adjacent plants is made equal to 1 m and 1.2 m, respectively. The optimal row spacing is 3–3.5 m.

Proper agricultural technology for blueberries of the Bluecrop variety involves loosening the soil at the bottom and on the walls of the pit. It will facilitate the passage of air to the roots of the plant.

The pit is filled with an acidic substrate consisting of a mixture of the following components:

high peat;
pine needles;
sawdust;
sand;
50 g sulfur.

Fertilizers, especially organic ones, do not need to be added to it. The substrate is compacted, then the seedling is lowered into the hole and, having straightened the roots of the plant well, it is covered with soil. If everything is done right, root collar The shrub should be deepened by 3 cm. Planting is completed by watering and mulching the surface of the pit. It is recommended to use for this pine sawdust, fine straw, chopped bark or peat. The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 12 cm.

In autumn, shrubs are planted in the same way as in spring. If the plant is less than 1 year old, then after placing it in the ground, remove weak and damaged branches. Only healthy and strong shoots are left on young blueberries, which are shortened by half. Seedlings of Bluecrop, Patriot and other varieties that have reached 2 years of age do not require additional treatment after planting.

Watering and fertilizing

Blueberry farming technology is quite simple. During the growing season, the soil around the bush must be loosened periodically. It is not recommended to carry out the procedure too often, otherwise there is a high risk of drying out the plant. Loosening should only affect upper layer soil (about 8 cm). If you make it deeper, you can damage the roots of the bush, which develop in a horizontal direction and are located close to the soil surface. The soil under the plants must always be covered with a layer of mulch; loosening is carried out without removing it. Every 2-3 years it is necessary to add mulching material. Blueberries of the Bluecrop variety do not tolerate the proximity of weeds, so you need to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the plantings.

The plant is moisture-loving, but prolonged (more than 2 days) stagnation of water at its roots can lead to the death of the bush. Correctly water blueberries according to the following scheme:

twice a week;
twice during the day: early in the morning and late in the evening, when the sun has already set;
1 bucket of water for each plant.

Timely watering at the planting stage is extremely important. flower buds– in July-August. Lack of moisture at this time will lead to a reduction in yield and a decrease in the quality of berries. It will have an effect next year too. If the summer turns out to be hot, watering alone will not be enough; you will have to additionally spray the blueberry leaves to prevent the plant from overheating. The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the heat subsides.

The bush responds well to mineral fertilizers: ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate, superphosphate. It's better to bring them in in early spring when the plant begins to flow sap and buds swell. Organic compounds will only harm blueberries. Nitrogen-containing preparations are applied three times per season: at the beginning of spring, in May, when the bush intensively grows leaves, and in June. The plant's need for phosphorus occurs in summer and autumn. It needs magnesium, potassium and zinc in small quantities; enrich the soil with them once a year.

Plantings should be periodically carefully inspected in order to detect signs of disease and pest damage in time. If the leaves of a plant change color, turn yellow or red, or become covered with spots, you should be wary.

Reproduction methods

Propagation of any of the blueberry varieties, including the most popular - Bluecrop, can be carried out in the following ways:

seeds;
cuttings;
layering;
dividing the bush.

Seeds are usually sown in autumn. It is also possible spring planting, but in this case you cannot do without their 3-month stratification in the refrigerator. The seeds are laid out in grooves and sprinkled with a mixture of 1 part peat and 3 parts sand. Layer nutrient substrate above them should be 1 cm. They will sprout vigorously if the air is heated to 23-25˚C and its humidity is at least 40%.

Agricultural technology for young blueberry shoots includes periodic moistening and loosening of the soil and removal weeds. Next spring seedlings are fed with nitrogen-containing preparations. It will be possible to plant them in a permanent place in 2 years. They will begin to bear fruit only 7-8 years after sowing.

Most often, propagation of shrubs is carried out by cuttings. It is better to cut them from the thickest shoots: they will give roots faster. Their length should be 8-15 cm. After cutting, the cuttings are placed in a cool place for a month, where the temperature does not rise above 1-5˚C, and then planted at an angle in a substrate of peat and sand, deepening by 5 cm. It is even easier to propagate blueberries by dividing the bush. It is dug up and cut into pieces so that each of them has a rhizome 5-7 cm long. No additional preparation is required for the divisions; they are immediately planted in a permanent plot.

Pruning and possible difficulties

Successful blueberry growing is impossible without regular pruning shrub, which helps to increase its productivity and decorativeness. It is better to carry out the procedure in early spring, when sap flow has not yet begun. Preventative pruning can be done at any time. Sick branches and severely damaged leaves must be removed and burned immediately.

If blueberry bushes bloom in the first year of life, the buds are cut off so that the plant develops correctly. At 2-4 years of age, they form a strong skeleton, removing weak branches, as well as branches damaged by disease or frost. It is necessary to get rid of shoots that lie on the ground and from root shoots.

All blueberry varieties, and Bluecrop is no exception, are susceptible to fungal diseases. Will signal them appearance bush. If its leaves turn red, this is a cause for concern. Most likely, the plant was struck by a dangerous disease - stem cancer. It can be provoked by excessive soil moisture. Such symptoms can also appear if blueberries are not properly cared for. Its leaves often turn red when the branches dry out or if the plant lacks minerals: nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium.

American and Canadian garden blueberries are deservedly considered one of the most valuable berry bushes. It has a lot of advantages. Among them are high yields, an abundance of beneficial properties of all parts of the plant, unpretentiousness, cold resistance, and durability. It’s scary to imagine, but her bushes live and bear fruit for up to 90 years!

The ability of the crop to withstand unfavorable weather conditions allows it to be grown almost everywhere. You can meet the shrub in the USA, Western Europe, in Ukraine, Belarus, the Caucasus, in the middle zone and even in the northern regions of Russia. Caring for blueberries cannot be called difficult. If you follow the recommendations for growing the crop, it will consistently produce a rich harvest.

Garden highbush blueberry or corymbose berry in Lately is especially popular among gardeners. This is explained not only by the taste of the berries, but also by the unpretentiousness of the culture. However, not every novice gardener knows that to obtain a stable harvest, blueberries should be pruned annually. Otherwise, with each subsequent year, the bush will lose its potential and produce less and less fruit, and their quality will noticeably deteriorate. To understand how to prune blueberries correctly, as well as to know when it is best to do it, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules for this procedure.

Features of the berry garden

In the garden plots of good owners you can see a wide variety of fruit and berry plants. Let's give short description garden blueberries. The tall variety of the crop is a deciduous shrub, the height of which reaches 1.2-2.5 meters. Shoots of garden blueberries can be erect or spreading, depending on the variety chosen.

The leaves of the plant are smooth, oval-shaped and rich green in color. Their length ranges from 4 to 8 cm. In autumn, the leaves acquire a red-crimson hue.

Garden blueberries bloom in late May - early June. At the same time, pink or white flowers are collected in racemes and have a faint pleasant aroma.

Fruit ripening occurs in late July - mid-August. The color of the berries can be blue or inky with a bluish coating on the skin. The fruit size is 10-20 mm, which depends on the variety of garden blueberries and the care taken. Fruit ripening occurs gradually, so they are collected in stages. The yield from 1 bush reaches 3-7 kg. Ripe fruits can hang on the branches for about 2 weeks without loss of taste and marketability.

The growing season for garden blueberries begins as soon as the air temperature rises above 0 degrees, which occurs in mid-April. The first harvest of fruits can be harvested 3 years after planting in a permanent place. The maximum yield occurs at 8-10 years. The life potential of the bush is 30 years. The stability and quality of the harvest depend on correct pruning blueberry bushes. Therefore, this procedure is mandatory when growing this crop.

Perennial shoots of the corymbose berry can withstand frosts down to -35 degrees, and buds and flowers can withstand temperatures down to -6 degrees.

Blueberries prefer to grow in acidic soils (3.8 - 4.8 pH). At the same time, the plant cannot tolerate drying out of the roots and stagnation of moisture.

Autumn pruning of bushes

The formation of a strong plant skeleton is the main condition for caring for a fruit bush. Garden blueberries are no exception. In the absence of this procedure, the annual increase in young animals will not have the opportunity to fully develop and bear fruit. As a result, the bush will begin to degenerate into wild growth, and the fruits will become smaller and lose their taste.

In addition, the thickened crown of a bush is a favorable place for the development of fungal diseases, since it is poorly blown by the wind. Therefore, formative and sanitary pruning of blueberries in the fall is an integral part of berry garden care. It is during this period that the sap flow in the shoots slows down, so the plant tolerates this procedure painlessly.

To prune blueberries, you should prepare pruning shears. The instrument must be pre-disinfected, which will eliminate the possibility of pathogens entering open sections.

Timing for pruning

It is recommended to remove excess shoots starting from the last ten days of October and throughout November. This period is the most suitable, since the plant is already resting, so when cutting the shoots, no nutritious juice will be released.

Carrying out the procedure later may lead to freezing of the cut shoots in the event of early cold weather.

The formation of the skeleton of the bush should begin immediately after planting the plant in a permanent place in the garden. Ignoring this rule in the first years may have a negative impact on further development bush.

Formation of a seedling during planting

The first pruning of blueberries is carried out when transplanting the plant from a container. This will help reduce the load on root system and will allow the seedling to redirect its forces to rooting.

To do this, it is necessary to plant during the period when the growth of the aboveground part stops, which occurs at the end of September and continues throughout October.

When trimming young seedling you need to do the following:

Remove all branched short growth that grows directly from the ground.
Leave only strong, erect shoots (2-3 pieces), and then shorten them by half.

This will help the plant quickly and painlessly take root in a new place.

Pruning a young seedling

Before stable fruiting begins, it is necessary to form a strong crown skeleton. If you leave the bush without attention for 1-2 years, the number of small shoots will increase, which will thicken the bush, and flower buds will form on the tops of the main shoots.

This will promote the formation of the first berries. At the same time, a thickened blueberry bush will not be able to produce a full harvest, since its forces will begin to be randomly distributed among small unnecessary shoots. Against this background, the plant weakens, and the likelihood of it being affected by fungal diseases increases. Therefore, it is worth sacrificing the first berries by removing the apical flower shoots to form a strong bush with productive shoots.

Remove all small growth coming from the root.
Select 3-4 shoots. They should be the strongest in appearance and point upward. These shoots will form the skeleton of the bush.
Cut off all vertical branches growing on the remaining shoots below 30 cm from the soil surface.
Trim off the tops where flower buds have formed.

As a result, this procedure will delay the first fruiting for some time, but will make it possible to form a strong bush, which will consist only of productive and strong branches.

Formation of an adult bush

At the age of 3-4 years, the bushes are at the final stage of formation. By this moment, they should have up to 7 lignified branches that produce a harvest, and up to 5 replacement shoots.

In the process of pruning blueberries at this age, the following actions are assumed:

Remove all horizontal shoots whose growth is directed downwards or towards the middle of the bush.
Cut off excess replacement shoots near the root, leaving only strong and erect ones.
Remove all small growth growing from the root.
Clear the main branches of vertical shoots growing below 30-40 cm from the soil surface.
Shorten horizontal fruiting branches to a length of 10-20 cm.

The result should be a thinned bush, in which the main stems are located at a certain distance from each other, which allows them not to touch. This will help reduce the likelihood of developing fungal diseases and redirect the main forces of the plant to productive branches.

Sanitary and anti-aging pruning of blueberries

Subsequently, the bush is cleared of excess and unproductive shoots. With proper care, blueberry bushes can produce crops for 30 years. But at the age of 5-6 years, their potential decreases, since they are overgrown with a large number of side shoots at the top. This leads to a decrease in the quality of the fruit.

The situation can be corrected using a special technique. To do this, it is necessary to identify one strong vertical shoot in the middle part of the main branch and make the transition to it. This will require shortening the obsolete branch directly above it.

If there is no such shoot, it must be cut off completely at the root. And in return, leave a young replacement shoot. When rejuvenating blueberry pruning, you should cut off all branches thicker than 25 mm, since they have completely exhausted their fruiting potential. In one season, you can remove about 20% of old branches without damaging the plant.

In addition, sanitary pruning of tall blueberries should be carried out annually in the fall. It includes cleaning the bush from damaged, broken and dry shoots.

When is it necessary to prune a bush at the root?

There are situations when only radical pruning can rejuvenate a plant. This procedure means cutting the bush at the root.

Main reasons:

The bush began to dry out in the absence of timely watering during the hot period.
The plant has degenerated into a wild plant because it has not been cleared for 5-6 years.
All the main fruit-bearing shoots have become obsolete, which has led to a loss of harvest quality.

After radical pruning of blueberries at the root, it is necessary to provide the plant with adequate nutrition and timely watering. Then within 2-3 years the bush will be able to recover.

Care after pruning

After clearing the blueberry bush in the autumn, it is necessary to treat the cuts with garden varnish. This must be done if the thickness of the shoot is 10 mm or more. This measure will eliminate the possibility of pathogens getting into open wounds.

In addition, caring for blueberries in the fall includes fertilizing to restore the vitality of the plant before winter. During this period, it is necessary to use mineral fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (15 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium magnesium per 10 liters of water).

Use nitrogen fertilizers in this period prohibited, as this can lead to freezing of the bush.

Preparing for winter

Blueberries are different high level frost resistance, but in the case of a snowless winter, plants under 3 years of age and young one-year growth may suffer from hypothermia.

Therefore, caring for blueberries in the fall and preparing for winter involves the following activities:

At the end of leaf fall, the shoots should be straightened and pressed to the ground using twine or special holding arches.
When persistent frosts occur, they should be covered with agrofibre or burlap. And to cover small bushes you can use coniferous spruce branches.
When snow falls, lightly sprinkle the shoots with it, which will further insulate them.

conclusions

Despite the unpretentiousness of blueberries, mistakes made when pruning bushes can negatively affect the development of the plant and the formation of fruits. The more responsible a novice gardener is about this procedure, the more better harvest and berry quality.

Blueberry is an extensive genus, including both tall (under 2 meters) and dwarf forms. In areas with a lack of heat in the summer and severe frosts in the winter, the most promising cultural species is the common blueberry, which adapts well to climate conditions.

It is resistant to cold and the effects of fungi, but it also has its drawbacks, manifested in low growth (up to 1 meter) and poor yield (up to 1 kg per bush). Nowadays, complex varieties of blueberries are being actively studied with the aim of adapting them to various geographical areas RF.

Blueberry varieties

It grows naturally throughout almost the entire territory of the Russian Federation. It prefers illuminated areas and is able to grow both in wetlands and on dry mountain soil (even very poor and acidic soils are suitable for it), showing greater cold resistance compared to, for example, blueberries.

The shrub is highly branched, has erect branches with brown or dark grayish bark and green shoots. Its bell-shaped flowers up to 6 cm long droop on the tops of last year's branches. Blue berries appear every year, different in shape, mostly elongated, a month and a half after flowering.

The common blueberry is characterized by a long life of the bush - approximately 100 years. It begins to bear fruit when it reaches 11-18 years, 200 g per bush.

- “sister” of the common blueberry, growing in North America in swampy and humid areas. This species is distinguished by higher growth (up to 2 meters) and yield (10 kg per bush in the USA, 0.5-7 kg in our conditions), and therefore in its homeland this species is widely used both in industry and in the gardens. Americans value this very tasty and beautiful berry even more than black currants.

The most valuable and popular variety, characterized by fruit ripening in the second half of summer and heavy pruning requirements. It is resistant to frost, but slightly susceptible to drought, and reproduces well. The berries are large, ball-shaped, covered with a light blue coating, form tassels and are very tasty, both in their natural form and after processing.

- a very rich early ripening variety. During abundant fruiting, the yield can reach 7-8 kg per bush. The large, fleshy fruits have outstanding flavor, while the bush itself is relatively short and strong.

This blueberry can withstand frosts down to -35℃, and its flexible branches do not break under the weight of snow, which is why it is most preferable for growing in eastern regions with difficult winters. The variety does not take root well in heavy and wet soil.

Also early and high-yielding variety, but with less frost resistance compared to the previous indicator - up to -29℃. IN good conditions growing reaches a height of 1.5-1.8 meters.

To maintain the size of the fruit, this variety needs to be pruned regularly - more often than others. The delicious-tasting berries are uniform in size and suitable for freezing. Duke blueberries can be grown in large areas.

It ripens late and is characterized by loose bushes with tall stems. Despite the difficulties in propagation associated with the small number of stems, the variety is resistant to cold. It bears fruit in mid-summer with large and very tasty light blue berries with a rich bloom, which must be collected at least once every 7 days to prevent shedding.

- 2-meter bush with large fruits and high productivity. Able to withstand cold temperatures down to -30℃.

- tall and widely spreading, ripens in the last month of summer. It bears fruit abundantly with large berries in the shape of a flattened ball, which can hang on the bush for a long time without falling off. The bush is highly decorative.

An early ripening variety that fully lives up to its name due to its ability to withstand cold temperatures down to -40℃. The bushes, which are small in height (1.2 meters), can nevertheless boast a stable yield of quite small (up to 17 mm), but no less tasty fruits.

- a highly branching variety of mid-late ripening. The diameter of the delicious flattened berries can be up to 3.5 cm, which can be verified during the abundant harvest at the end of the first half of summer.

- one of the most aromatic and tasty varieties, which is characterized by a medium ripening period. Bushes up to 1.8 meters high produce fruits alternately, extending the opportunity to enjoy fresh berries for as long as 2 weeks. The variety reproduces well, but this does not apply to depleted and alkaline soils, where its development is significantly hampered.

It is very winter-hardy - its indicator is -38℃. Moreover, the variety is self-pollinating and can be grown in a container.

1.5-2.1 meters high, ripens in the second half of August. The harvest is not stable, but from a bush you can collect from 4 to 8 kg of delicious berries. The fruits are very fragrant, reach 2 cm in diameter and burst easily.

- a high-yielding variety that ripens early. Forms one and a half meter spreading bushes that need to be trimmed regularly. The 1.8-centimeter berries are characterized by a deep blue hue with a bluish surface coating, a bright aroma and excellent taste, which can be felt starting in mid-summer.

Due to its excellent winter hardiness, the variety bears fruit even in the northern regions, but one of its distinctive qualities should be noted, which is the rapid withering of fruits, especially if we're talking about about regions with dry and hot summer climates. For this reason, the crop must be harvested on time, avoiding its overripening and subsequent loss of taste and shedding.

It is a strong dwarf hybrid, not exceeding 1 meter in height and producing ripe fruits in mid-summer. Sweetish, brightly colored fruits with an attractive aroma are collected in quantities of 2-2.5 kg from one bush.

The variety has very pronounced resistance to pests and cold. It is also unpretentious in terms of soil and has a delightful decorative quality when autumn comes, coloring the foliage in beautiful wine tones.

With a characteristic average ripening period, it forms large tassels of light blue fruits, which begin to be harvested in mid-August. One bush bears up to 2.7 kg of tasty 1.7-cm diameter fruits. The bush itself grows up to 1.8 meters in height.

Blueberry planting and care

Planting blueberries in the garden predetermines the preparation of an area that is not very similar in conditions to the natural habitat of this plant.

The fact is that “homemade” blueberries do not like stagnation surface water, in contrast to wild specimens. This means that drainage may be needed, or better yet, plant the blueberries on a hill - a small hill.

Watering blueberries

It is recommended to water with acidified water, consisting of 1 teaspoon citric acid, diluted in a bucket of water. Blueberries especially need moisture during the mid- to late-summer period when the fruits ripen, but you should not overdo it here, as this can cause rotting of the roots.

In a rainless autumn, it won’t hurt to carry out moisture-charging watering, which will saturate the entire root-inhabited soil with moisture, in the case of blueberries it is 40 cm. This means you need to pour about 60 liters of water under each bush.

Soil for blueberries

Breathable, acidic (pH 3.8-5), loose, peaty-sandy soil is well suited for blueberries. The favorable conditions for blueberry growth in a particular soil can be indicated by indicator plants, which in this case are horsetail, mint and sorrel.

The above range of soil acidity is extremely important, since even if the pH level is 6, blueberries will grow at a slow pace, which is further aggravated in neutral and, especially, alkaline soils.

Blueberry transplant

If there is a need to replant an adult fruit-bearing plant, it is imperative to carry out preliminary deep digging of the soil and check the acidity level of the soil in the place designated for replanting.

Dimensions landing pit should be at least 60x50 cm, and the bottom and walls should be thoroughly loosened. It is recommended to use about 50 g of sulfur for the soil mixture. After completing the replanting procedure, you should take care to protect the plant from sunlight and water it very generously.

Fertilizer for blueberries

It is advisable to combine the cultivation of blueberries with the application of fertilizers, the basis of which is minerals, while organic matter in large quantities is strictly contraindicated.

Typically, each plant is allocated 50-60 g of superphosphate, 15-35 g of magnesium and 1-2 g of a mixture of microelements. Nitrogen is especially important, and they need to be fed in 3 approaches - 40% in the spring (before buds open), 35% in early May and the remaining 25% at the onset of summer.

Moreover, if the mulch contains fresh sawdust, then nitrogen must be added in double quantities. Potassium in the form of sulfate is also useful for blueberries, which is quite sufficient in quantities of 30-45 g per bush.

Blueberry pruning

Highbush blueberries are pruned in early spring or in the fall after the leaves fall. Only those bushes that have reached the age of 6-7 years should be rejuvenated, leaving at least 5 1-year-old shoots.

A heavily overgrown bush also needs to be thinned out. More high grades Blueberries are pruned even further to stimulate growth.

Preparing blueberries for winter

The winter hardiness of many blueberry varieties is so high that they can easily withstand cold times with temperatures of -25℃ and below. Moreover, this figure can be further increased by observing a reduced dosage of nitrogen when applying fertilizing, especially when flowering ends - this will prevent the growth of stems in late autumn.

Protection may only be required for late-ripening varieties, the berries of which can be damaged by frost, and to avoid this, the bushes are covered with light non-woven material. In cases of particularly harsh snowless winters, you can tie the stems with spruce branches or cover them with burlap.

Growing blueberries from seeds

Blueberries are propagated by seed using seeds obtained from good, fully ripe berries. After separating the seeds, they are dried, and in the fall they are planted on the site in shallow furrows.

Before the seedlings grow (in a couple of years), the sprouts should be steadily weeded, moistened and fed, and after young plant transplanted to a permanent place.

Propagation of blueberries by cuttings

Propagation by root cuttings begins with their preparation in late autumn. Having separated the cutting from the parent, it is placed in sand and placed in a cool place.

After 2 years, with careful care, the cutting will turn into good seedling, having planted it in open ground, you can expect a harvest next year.

Diseases and pests

The most common disease of blueberries is stem cancer, caused by a specific fungus. A characteristic feature such a defeat is appearance of small red spots on shoots and leaves, which, growing over time, take on an oval shape and a brown-chestnut color.

The result may be stem death. The manifestations of this disease are especially noticeable in summer, when exposure to the fungus causes the appearance of round brownish spots on the foliage with a bright halo of crimson-red hue. Most often, it is cancer that causes the death of young animals.

It can be prevented by not planting blueberries in waterlogged areas and not applying excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers, as well as by consistent pruning of bushes and burning of infected stems.

In the fight against this disease, treatment with a 0.2% topsin solution and a 0.2% euparen solution with three sprays every week before flowering and the same amount after harvesting the fruits worked well. Double or triple treatment gives good results. Bordeaux mixture in the spring before the leaves bloom and in the fall after they fall.

If Blueberries don't grow , showing signs of dwarfism, this may indicate that the plant is affected by one of the viral or mycoplasma diseases. In this case, complete removal of the diseased specimen is required, followed by burning it.

Blueberries beneficial properties and contraindications

The unique composition of blueberries is due to the presence in them of many vitamins important for humans, including A , IN 1 , AT 2 , RR , TO , R And ascorbic acid . Special mention should also be made anthocyanins , which blueberries contain in much greater quantities compared to blueberries.

These compounds give blueberries anti-cancer and anti-aging properties. However, people who suffer from biliary tract diseases are not recommended to eat blueberries.

Blueberry Pie

“Finnish” blueberry pie will decorate any table with its presence, and, in addition, does not require large financial investments.

Ingredients :

blueberries 150 g (fresh or frozen);
flour 150 g;
almonds 150 g;
butter 100 g;
cottage cheese 100 g;
sugar 100 g;
sour cream 200 g (fat content 20-30%);
1 egg,
3 egg yolks,
1 pinch of salt and half a pinch of vanillin.

To get the dough, you need to crush and pour flour, cottage cheese, butter, almonds and salt into a bowl, then mix them with a mixer and add the egg. The resulting dough should be poured into a mold on baking paper, pierced in several places and refrigerated for 40-60 minutes.

The filling is prepared in a plate based on three yolks, sour cream, vanillin and sugar and poured onto the dough, then blueberries are scattered over it. In this form, the pie is baked in an oven preheated to 180℃ for 30-40 minutes. The frozen filling will indicate that the pie is ready, but it needs to cool slightly before eating.

Blueberry jam

Blueberry jam requires very little ingredients :

1 kg of fresh fruits;
800 g sugar;
1.5 glasses of water.

The berries should be well washed, ripe, but not overripe. They are placed in an enamel container, wait until the sweet composition based on water and sugar is cooked.

Afterwards, the berries are poured with a hot mixture and the mixture is allowed to brew for 2 hours. Then the container with berries is brought to a state of readiness on a burning stove. It is recommended to seal jars of jam while it is still hot.

Similar to blueberries, tasty and juicy blueberries are increasingly grown by gardeners in their summer cottages. This plant is extremely demanding; it needs constant care and attention. One of the most important components of success is proper preparation blueberries for winter.

Under good layer Snow blueberries can withstand frosts down to -25 C. However, in a snowless winter, the maximum permissible temperature threshold decreases and freezing becomes very likely. This is especially true for late-ripening varieties of this plant.

Making your own shelter

To avoid such developments, blueberries should be additionally insulated for the winter. First of all, the bushes need to be properly prepared for the upcoming winter. The branches should be bent to the ground, and wire arcs should be installed around them.

After the onset of stable frosts, burlap or non-woven materials are placed and secured on the arches. It is advisable not to use plastic film for these purposes.

You can additionally throw spruce branches on top of the shelter and dust it well with the first snow that has fallen. Blueberries must be under this natural white blanket throughout the winter, so periodically check the cover and, if necessary, add snow.

With the arrival of spring, gradually dismantle the winter protection. Cut off the ends of all frozen blueberry branches that you find during inspection.

Do not worry about blueberry flowers during subsequent spring cold snaps, as these plants tolerate frosts well down to -7 C.

Sections