Idea how to do it homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, taken from the magazine “Modelist-Konstruktor”, the design of the unit was redesigned in accordance with the following requirements: eliminate chain drive from the transmission design, ensure the lowest possible center of gravity. Since the necessary gearbox was missing, the transmission was made from spare parts for gears for the Elektron scooter engine.

Walk-behind tractor: 1 – engine; 2 – casing; 3 – gas tank; 4 – ignition coil; 5 – switch; 6 – pin for fixing the angle of inclination of the working body (not shown in the top view); 7 – M16 bolt; 8 – axis of fastening of the working body; 9 – working body (plow); 10 – holder; 11 – frame; 12 – carrier with control handles; 13 – wheel with lugs.

Making a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

To make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, parts were taken from the V-150 M engine: crankcase, gears, chain sprockets, as well as an additional gearbox shaft. The crankcase must be cut into two halves and the kickstarter, gearshift mechanism and crank chamber removed from it. You need to install a plug at the kickstarter exit point and weld it using argon welding.

We install the bearing axle box of the right running wheel of the walk-behind tractor into the left half of the crankcase. A spare crankcase of the same engine is used as an axle box.

A part of the V-150 M engine crankcase is also used as the left cover, which is supplemented with one part - a duralumin bushing. The bushing is pressed into the crank chamber and has a hole corresponding to the diameter of the engine output shaft shank.

Walk-behind tractor chassis

• 1 – right wheel;
• 2 – left wheel;
• 3 – first gear gear;
• 4 – drive shaft;
• 5- gearbox;
• 6 – drive gear;
• 7 – bushing;
• 8 – locking screw;
• 9 – drive shaft housing;
• 10 – axle box flange;
• 11 – nut and bolt M8;
• 12 – splined bushing;
• 13 – shaft;
• 14 – M14 nuts;
• 15 – washer;
• 16 – oil seal;
• 17,18 – bearings;
• 19 – engine.

Walk-behind tractor drive shaft

• 1,2 – cantilever parts of the shaft (from the secondary shafts of the V-150 M gears);
• 3 – gear (from the first gear gear V-150M);
• 4 – front part of the shaft (bar d22 mm);
• 5 – cut-off collar.

The motor and gearbox are fixed relative to each other using an M10 screw.

How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with an ant gearbox

A two-stage chain gearbox is designed to reduce the rotation speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit of the walk-behind tractor to the wheels or cutters.

Chain gear drawing

1 - body made of channel No. 20); 2 - cover made of Art. sheet s5); 3 - gasket made of oil and petrol resistant technical plate) 4 - second stage drive sprocket (z = 11, t = 1&.05); 5-key; 6 - bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 - nut M22x1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - oil seal; 11 - spacer sleeve with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 - M8 screw with spring washer (30 pcs.);

14 - driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 1&.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 - bearing housing; 17 - sealing sleeve; 18 - left axle shaft; 19-oil drain plug (M10 screw); 20 - bottom of the body from Art. sheet s4); 21 - oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22,23 - oil seals (2 pieces each); 24 - right axle shaft; 25 - M6 fixing screws (8 pcs.); 26 - M8 bolt; 27 - chain t = 1&.05; 28 - driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 - spacer sleeve

The first stage of the gearbox includes two sprockets with 17 and 57 teeth, respectively, with a pitch of 12.75 mm. The drive sprocket with 17 teeth sits on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket sits on the outer flange of the second stage input shaft.

The second stage of the gearbox is reinforced and has a drive sprocket of 11 teeth and a driven sprocket of 25 teeth, a tooth pitch of 19.05 mm. Since during the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the second stage is located close to the cultivated soil, it is protected from dust by a closed crankcase, which is directly connected by welding to the cross members, and the crankcase is connected by welding to the side members through steel spacers.

A strut is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves that are reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower parts, the walls of the channels have the shape of a semicircle; instead of cut shelves, a bottom is welded from a 4 mm steel sheet, which is curved along the walls of the channels in the shape of a semi-cylinder. The top of the crankcase is closed with a cover with a gasket made of oil- and petrol-resistant technical plate.

Two coaxial holes d = 100 mm were made in both walls for bearing housings. Around each of them there are six other threaded holes with M8 threads, the purpose of which is to fasten the housings to the crankcase. The lower axle shaft bearings have normal housings, while the upper shaft bearings have eccentric housings. By rotating them around their axis by at least 15°, the tension of the chain of the second stage of the gearbox is adjusted in steps.

The shaft of the second stage of the gearbox is mounted in two ball bearings 206. By means of two spacers, the drive sprocket is fixed exactly in the middle between the inner walls of the crankcase and connected to the shaft by means of a feather key. On the centering boss of the right axle shaft sits a large driven sprocket, secured with six M8 bolts between the opposing flanges of the axle shafts. Bottom part The large driven sprocket and part of the chain are constantly immersed in oil.

When the walk-behind tractor engine is running, the moving chain transfers oil to the upper part of the crankcase - thus lubrication of the rubbing parts of the second stage is organized. To prevent oil leakage, oil seals are provided in the bearing housings. Tough flange connection axle shafts form a single shaft mounted in two ball bearings 308.

Homemade gearbox for walk-behind tractor photo selection

How to assemble a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

Do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor assembled from components old technology, will be a good assistant in household. This option can turn out to be a significant cost savings on purchasing a factory model, despite certain difficulties in making a homemade product.

For work you will need a metalworking tool:

• grinder with cutting and cleaning discs;
• electric drill, set of drills;
• welding machine, mask, electrodes;
• set of locksmith tools.

Some parts will have to be made using lathes and milling machines. If it is impossible to do the work yourself, the drawings of the parts should be provided to a specialized organization that has the appropriate equipment and personnel.

Typical device

Figure 1. Walk-behind tractor frame.

Walk-behind tractor design from various manufacturers fundamental differences practically none. Most consist of a power unit, a system for transmitting rotating torque to a wheel pair, brackets for installing working tools, and control elements. Main differences:

• engine power and design;
• type of drive;
• wheel pair device;
• differences in suspension design.

The power and type of engine will depend on the available power unit. This could be the engine of a scooter, scooter, motorcycle, or gasoline saw. With sufficient experience and the ability to connect to the network, an electric unit can be manufactured. This model is much easier to operate and does not require fuel or oil. The electric walk-behind tractor must be equipped with a cable of the required length to process the main area of ​​the site. A power of 1 kW equals 1.36 liters. With. therefore, to ensure the functionality of the homemade product, you should use an engine with a power of at least 1.8-2 kW. Single phase Electrical engine With such parameters it is quite difficult to find. A more optimal option would be to install a three-phase one if a circuit is available.

The drive type can have several options. A prerequisite for transmitting torque to the wheels is the presence of a clutch device that makes it possible to stop the unit with the engine running.

Figure 2. Motor dimensions and mounting points.

Most power units have a fairly high engine speed. The speed of the block should be low. To do this, a gearbox with a reduction ratio must be installed between the shaft and the wheelset. The gearbox circuit must ensure the transmission of the required force and maintain the optimal speed for operation.

The wheelset can be made independently from metal. You can use wheels from a car, scooter, or other mechanism, equipping them with chains with brackets for better traction with the ground.

The walk-behind tractor must contain a suspension for attaching various working tools. Dimensions and design will depend on available fixtures. An option with rigid fastening of one tool is possible, but such use is irrational. The best option is a device of a multifunctional block circuit.

Beginning of work

Figure 3. Sub-frame.

To figure out how to make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, it is advisable to carefully study several factory-made models. If you have a neighbor or friend who has assembled such a device, you can borrow experience from him. Such consultations and inspections will help you understand the operating principle of the unit in action and resolve most issues.

Work should begin with the selection of main components and parts. In this case, it is advisable to carefully review all possible places storage of various unnecessary spare parts, components and assemblies.

The dimensions will depend on the available power unit, wheelset, and suspension device. To begin work, it is advisable to have a diagram with the location of the main elements. As an example, you can use a design with an engine from the Ant scooter.

It is easier to assemble a walk-behind tractor with an air-cooled engine; you do not need a radiator or a container for coolant.

Figure 4. Drawing of a chain gearbox.

The assembly of the walk-behind tractor begins with the construction of the frame. External design shown in Fig. 1. The indicated dimensions are not critical and can be changed according to the available components.

The material for them is a steel pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. If you have a long piece, you can bend a solid part or weld it from sections. To enhance rigidity, both sides are connected by jumpers.

Jumper 8 is used to install the chain tensioner.

Part 3 serves as a jumper and a location for installing the battery. Carter 5 is designed for installing a chain reducer for reducing speed and installing the chassis.

A device for attaching a transport trolley and other attachments is attached to it.

Power unit

Figure 5. Homemade lugs.

A homemade walk-behind tractor can be equipped with any available engine. Many experts do not recommend using a scooter engine. This device is equipped with a variator that regulates speed depending on the load on the engine. The floating effect of changing speed will create some discomfort during operation; constant adjustment with the throttle will be required.

In the example shown, a 13 hp engine is used. With. with forced air cooling complete with gearbox. The appearance of the unit and the attachment point is shown in Fig. 2.

The design of the frame for installing the engine is shown in Fig. 3. On a bracket made of a curved pipe (diameter 32 mm), 3 loops are welded, corresponding to the engine mounting points. The pipe is attached to 3 crossbars connecting the corners. Longitudinal holes are cut in the horizontal shelves of the corners to move the block. The structure must move along the frame to tension the chain of the initial stage of the gearbox. The adjustment is performed with an M10 bolt connecting corner 7 of the motor frame and cross member 8 of the common frame. Fixation is performed with 4 M8 bolts in the slots in the corners.

When installing an engine, the question arises: how to assemble an exhaust gas removal system? The exhaust tract and muffler must be reconfigured to direct exhaust gases to a safe location. A pipe filled with metal shavings can be used as a muffler.

Gearbox and wheelset

Figure 6. Cultivator subframe.

The device must necessarily contain a reduction gearbox. The most widely used design is the chain system, which is reliable and simple. The main purpose is to reduce the speed of movement of the unit and increase the power of torque on the wheels.

The gearbox drawing is shown in Fig. 4. The device consists of 2 stages. The first is designed to transmit speed from the engine output shaft to the intermediate shaft. It uses 2 sprockets with 57 and 17 teeth. The smaller sprocket is installed on the output shaft of the power unit, the larger one on the input shaft of the gearbox.

The next stage transfers from the intermediate shaft to the wheelset. To manufacture this stage, reinforced sprockets with 11 and 25 teeth, respectively, were used. The second stage is located in a closed crankcase, which protects the parts from soil and dust.

The shaft outlets are sealed with oil seals. The crankcase is filled with oil to a level approximately up to the middle of the driven sprocket. When the unit operates, the chain, bearings, and second-stage sprockets are automatically lubricated.

For reinforcement, a spacer is welded between the crankcase and the main frame. To adjust the chain tension, the upper bearings are installed in eccentric housings. All bearing housings are attached to the crankcase walls with M8 bolts.

You can assemble a walk-behind tractor with ready-made wheels from some mechanism or make it yourself. This design uses wheels with additional attachments from the SMZ motorized stroller. The design of the nozzles is shown in Fig. 5. From the prepared parts you need to assemble two halves, connected on one side by a hinge. The second ends are connected with a lock when installed on the bus.

If you have the device, it’s quite easy to turn the unit into a motor cultivator. To install knives, you need to make a T-shaped bracket from a square or rectangular pipe. Appearance and dimensions are shown in Fig. 6.

Conclusion

In order not to suffer from the problem of how to assemble another structure to facilitate household work, it is advisable to immediately design the device of the walk-behind tractor as multifunctional. With the proper skill and experience, the device can be used for transporting tools, cargo, and mowing grass.

IN winter time You can install a shovel on a homemade walk-behind tractor to clear the paths and yard of snow. If you wish, you can find many problems and jobs that a homemade unit will help you cope with.

Additional articles on the topic:

How to make an adapter for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

Work for plot of land with a walk-behind tractor, often takes a lot of effort due to the inconvenience. Therefore, many summer residents, in order to make their work easier, resort to various additional equipment. One type of such equipment is an adapter for a walk-behind tractor. Of course, you can always buy it in a store, but if you are wondering how to make an adapter for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, this article is for you.

Making an adapter for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

At the moment, there are several types of adapters, as a rule, their designs are similar, and are a device attached to the back of the walk-behind tractor with a comfortable seat.

The adapter is made of a square metal profile, 160 to 180 cm long. Across this profile, another one, 50-60 cm in size, is welded, depending on what track you need (wheel stands are attached to it). The height of the racks to the wheel axle from the top to the adapter wheel axle can be from 25 to 40 cm, depending on the design.

Next to the main metal profile and braces are welded to the wheel hubs; they also serve as stiffeners. Their length depends on the angle of inclination relative to the entire structure and other parameters. Then, the frame structure to which the attachments will be attached is calculated and welded. The side guides of this design are attached to the wheel stands with bolts.

After this, a control lever with three bends with dimensions of 35, 55, 20 cm is welded to the main frame. To increase the applied force, another lever is attached to the lever, but with dimensions of 80 cm.

The adapter seat is mounted on a support welded to the central metal profile. As you can see, making an adapter for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands is not so difficult.

Purpose of the adapter

Here, I think everything is clear, there is a fairly large amount of work on the ground that is easier, faster and more convenient to do with an adapter. And working with such attachments like a rotary cutter, it’s generally safer.

Design diagram of the adapter for the walk-behind tractor

The adapter for a walk-behind tractor is a kind of towed device made on a frame and has two wheels. Structurally, adapters are divided into several types; in simple terms, they can be simple or more complex. The main types are considered universal, those that are capable of transporting loads and performing soil cultivation, and simple ones, capable of only performing soil cultivation.

For walk-behind tractors of different power, different adapters are used; for a low-power one, an adapter with a short drawbar is installed, for a powerful one, with a long one. Also, universal adapters are equipped with additional functionality, increasing the track, lifting attachments, etc.

Do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor adapter, drawings and dimensions

Below are the drawings and dimensions, as well as the materials required for the manufacture of an adapter for a walk-behind tractor of complex design.

What you will need to make the adapter

— Metal sheets for footrests

- Square metal. Profile

Below is a kinetic diagram that will help ensure the balance of the structure and avoid additional load. The drawing below shows the diagram of a mini tractor made from a Neva walk-behind tractor.

The engine of the power unit (2), which drives the front wheels (1), transmits torque through the chain (3) to the reverse gearbox (4), and from it through the cardan transmission (5) to rear axle(6), causing the rear drive wheels (7) to rotate.

— When making the frame, you must not forget about the arrangement of the bushing and fork to ensure free rotation of the trailer.

— The body of the adapter to the walk-behind tractor is made of steel sheet, and the sides of the body must be at least 30–35 cm high.

— The seat is installed on a beam welded to the main frame using bolts. The distance from the beginning of the frame to the seat should be 80-90 cm.

— Checking the robotic capability of the entire mechanism.

Additional simple adapter drawings

Below is a drawing of one of the simplest adapters in terms of design.

The following are welded to a frame made of square profiled pipe measuring 50*50 mm and thickness 2 mm:

- Perpendicular footrest installed pipe;

— A stand with a seat installed on it;

— A square pipe of the same cross-section for installing wheels;

Drawings of key adapter components

Hitch mechanism. Looks like welded construction, inserted into the main frame and secured with bolts. Consists of two pieces welded onto each other square pipe and a piece of ordinary “water” pipe with a caliber of 1 -1.5 inches.

Read more about the hitch and how to make it in the separate material “Hitch for a walk-behind tractor.”

A rod with a welded homemade tee is inserted into the pipe, not fully inserted, clamped with a bolt. The rod is lubricated with grease and ensures that the tee rotates along the axis to ensure a rolling effect when moving on uneven ground.

Wheel mount. The design consists of two pipe sections welded perpendicularly. The horizontal section is inserted into the mounting pipe and fastened with a bolt. An axle with a wheel is mounted on the vertical part (on bearings).

Other adapter components are not so important, and we will not consider them.

Adapter for walk-behind tractor Neva

Drawings and dimensions for different walk-behind tractors may vary depending on the design. So for popular models of walk-behind tractors Neva, MTZ, OKA, homemade adapters can differ significantly.

Having made a homemade adapter to a walk-behind tractor, using it with different kinds attachments, you can not only make work easier, but also significantly increase productivity.

Video selection: do-it-yourself adapter for a walk-behind tractor

Homemade adapter for the Neva walk-behind tractor

All-wheel drive adapter AMPK 500

How to make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands using the example of a project from V. Arkhipov

The walk-behind tractor is a universal miracle machine that can automate most of the agricultural work on your site. It is used to plow the soil, plant and dig up potatoes, remove snow and even transport small loads (harvest, fertilizers). Naturally, such an indispensable unit for farming is sold in any agricultural center. And it's not cheap. At the same time, its device is quite simple and does not require special technical knowledge. Therefore, many self-taught craftsmen decide to make a walk-behind tractor with their own hands.

The undeniable advantage of homemade walk-behind tractors is their price, which is practically non-existent. Consumables either they are initially on the farm of a skilled owner, or they are purchased from neighbors for a nominal fee. Walk-behind tractors are assembled from parts of old chainsaws, mopeds, motorcycles, and agricultural machinery. Despite this, the end result is often above all praise. In terms of reliability, functionality and convenience, such machines are not inferior to their factory counterparts.

Homemade walk-behind tractor, the main elements of which are taken from the old Minsk motorcycle

We invite you to appreciate the simplicity of the rather famous device homemade walk-behind tractor, designed by Kaluga craftsman V. Arkhipov. Data on how to make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands according to Arkhipov’s design were first published in 1982 in the magazine “Modelist-Constructor”. The project gained enormous popularity and was recognized by professional designers and folk craftsmen. We can say that even now Arkhipov’s invention is an example of an ideal homemade walk-behind tractor with many useful functions.

Arkhipov’s homemade walk-behind tractor combines the simplest structure, high functionality and reliability

The Arkhipov walk-behind tractor is a machine that runs on a gasoline engine, has a trunk for transporting goods and a suspension for agricultural implements (plow, cultivator, harrow, rake, etc.). Main element The engine that ensures the operation of the unit is the engine. IN original project Arkhipov used a VP-150M motor (7 hp), taken from the Vyatka scooter. It can be replaced, for example, with the T200M engine (9 hp) of the Tula-Tourist scooter or the T200A engine of the Ant scooter (14-16 hp). A special feature of these engines is their high power and a built-in air cooling system, which allows the cylinder head not to heat up when operating at low speeds and heavy loads. A motor without a cooling system in such conditions will inevitably overheat, which will lead to its rapid breakdown.

General view of Arkhipov’s walk-behind tractor (click to enlarge)

Most of the other elements of the walk-behind tractor are also taken from the scooter: part of the frame and motor suspension, chains, control cables and handles. Chains are used with pitches of 12.7 mm and 15.9 mm. The number of teeth of the output shaft sprockets is 11, the running axle is 12, the secondary shaft is 20 and 60.

The remaining parts are made independently. The wheel axle is machined from reinforcement, the U-shaped frame and trunk are made from pipes with a diameter of Ø60 mm by welding.

Frame design of Arkhipov’s homemade walk-behind tractor

Construction of a trunk made of pipes (you can use a corner)

To connect the body of the walk-behind tractor with the steering wheel and plow, the design provides for the use of three control rod and main rod hinges. The gear shift device is also made independently. A steel pipe is welded to the walk-behind tractor frame, at the end of which there is an axle. A swinging rocker arm is attached to it, which is used to tension the gearshift cables going to the gearbox. A piece of pipe is welded to the rocker arm and is used as a gear shift knob.

An important feature of Arkhipov’s walk-behind tractor is its unusual running wheels, round and flat, reminiscent of circular saw blades. Only instead of teeth they have lugs. Such wheels adhere well to the soil and do not compact it when passing. On the contrary, when the lugs rotate, additional loosening of the beds occurs. Wheels are cut from sheet steel S = 10-12 mm using a gas cutter. The lugs are made in accordance with the drawings. Instead of such wheels, ordinary car tires are also suitable for a walk-behind tractor, but they will have less traction with the soil and therefore slip when the walk-behind tractor is operating.

Metal wheel with lugs

Technology for assembling elements of such a walk-behind tractor:

1. A sprocket is welded onto the running shaft, housings with bearings No. 307 and No. 308, and overrunning clutches that act as a differential are installed.
2. Mount the running wheels and frame.
3. A telescopic rod, steering wheel and plow are attached to the frame.
4. Two arc-shaped pipes from the scooter frame connect the walk-behind tractor frame to part of the engine mount.
5. Install the fuel tank, placing it between the pipes.
6. A bracket is welded to the frame, at the end of which a steel axle Ø36 mm, 15 cm long, is placed transversely.
7. The gasoline engine with suspension is hung on the axle and then secured to the side arched pipes of the frame.
8. According to the drawings, the secondary shaft is installed.
9. Stretch control cables and chains.

Running shaft assembly

Working with Arkhipov’s homemade walk-behind tractor is easy and convenient. This is primarily due to the use of a hinged connection between the tractor and the processing sheds. The rigid connection used in most models of agricultural “homemade” makes it difficult to turn the unit. While movable hinges allow you to change the direction of movement of the walk-behind tractor without pulling the processing tool (plow, harrow) out of the ground. Thus, less physical effort is expended, and the furrow remains even.

The Arkhipov walk-behind tractor, thanks to its maneuverability and thoughtful design, is surprisingly easy to operate

The plowing depth is maintained constant without additional effort from the walk-behind tractor operator. There is no need to lower or raise the plow, just change its angle of inclination relative to the surface being worked. If the plow suddenly begins to go deeper into the furrow more than it should, then the lifting force from the field board automatically begins to act on it. If the ploughshare rises from the furrow, then its angle of attack increases, burying the plow back into the soil. This ensures a stable furrow depth and balance of the unit itself.

When operating a conventional homemade walk-behind tractor, the plow often drifts to the side due to the significant resistance of the plowed soil. The plowman has to make an effort to maintain an even line of the furrow. The Arkhipov walk-behind tractor does not have this drawback, since the axis of the plow is inclined to the direction of movement. When plowing, the unit is turned slightly to the left and this compensates for possible skidding.

Plowing the first furrow is the most responsible action. It must turn out to be perfectly smooth, and for this the direction of movement must be set by the plow itself, rigidly connected to the control handles. By turning them, the operator changes the direction of movement. For example, if you need to turn the unit to the right, you need to tilt the handles to the left. A plow fixed in the ground will not be able to move to the left; it is held in one position, so the draft turns the machine to the right. When plowing subsequent furrows, control is much simpler, since the wheel will move along the plowed furrow, copying its direction.

Arkhipov’s homemade walk-behind tractor can become a reliable assistant in working on a plot of land. Not only a plow is used as a processing tool, but also a cultivator cutter, a harrow, and a rake. All these tools are secured to the tractor with two bolts, just like the plow.

To plant potatoes, you can use a cultivator after removing the dumps from it. Having secured it to the walk-behind tractor, they make furrows. After the tubers are laid, the blades are placed back on the cultivator and passed between the furrows. The grown crop is dug up using a special potato digger. Potato tops, mown grass or weeds can be removed with a rake canopy.

Potato digger, plow, shovel blade - all this can be used as attachments for a homemade walk-behind tractor

Except earthworks The Arkhipov walk-behind tractor can also be adapted for cleaning the site. For example, by attaching a bulldozer blade to a machine, we get an effective snow blower. And by installing a roller with a brush and an additional star, it is an excellent “electric broom” for sweeping garden paths.

Arkhipov's walk-behind tractor is a device that will successfully replace your expensive factory-made unit. He will cope with his role 100%: he will allow as soon as possible cultivate the land and save you from hard physical labor.

In addition to the Arkhipov walk-behind tractor, there are many other homemade models. Look at the operation of one such unit with a mounted potato digger - this is a truly ingenious invention, the structure of which is shown in sufficient detail in the video:

How to make a walk-behind tractor yourself?

• Equipment design
• Technical points
  • Chainsaw device
  • Conclusion on the topic

Before you make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, it is recommended to find out about it design features and the principle of operation. Using technology, you can remove snow, mow grass, and harvest crops.

Equipment design

The versatility of motor cultivators is ensured by various equipment that is installed on homemade products. The wheels of the equipment rotate simultaneously with the intermediate shaft, putting the unit into operation. To make a homemade walk-behind tractor, use steel corners (36x36 mm) or a pipe with a cross-section of 60x50x2 mm. The engine, fuel tank, exhaust system parts and steering wheel are removed from the old equipment.

Motoblock device diagram.

Installation work is carried out using grinder, metal disc, welding machine, drill, set of wrenches and vice. Since the homemade product requires high torque and low speed, it is made after solving the problem with the transmission.

To do this, the intermediate shaft is equipped with 2 sprockets. The first gear is assembled using a standard gear.

The frame of the unit is connected to the motor suspension and the frame of the scooter using 2 arc-shaped pipes. The engine is equipped with a bracket, which is welded to a U-shaped frame. The engine and suspension are mounted on the axle. The resulting structure is connected to the frame arches. Then install the secondary shaft and pull the cable.

A chainsaw is a device that is most popular among craftsmen. It can be used as a kind of universal drive in order to produce a walk-behind tractor with my own hands. This instrument perfectly combines important qualities:

1. Quite solid power;

2. Light weight;

3. Maximum compact dimensions.

Using a chainsaw, you can create and assemble winches, bicycles and other objects.

A chainsaw allows you to make a wide variety of interesting designs with your own hands. For general activities, you will need knowledge of drawing, design, and so on. These skills are important for subsequent high-quality assembly, summing up exact dimensions and just for a normalized workflow.

How to make a walk-behind tractor from a chainsaw with your own hands

Having small plots available, purchasing a walk-behind tractor for crazy money is, in fact, unjustified. In addition to the actual device, you have to regularly buy other necessary elements:

1. Spare parts;

2. Additional equipment;

3. Lubricants;

4. Combustible substances.

That is why, to ease financial waste, you should try to create a walk-behind tractor yourself from a chainsaw.

The immediate active process begins with the manufacture of the frame. It has the shape of a cube with corners of 32*32 millimeters. The main engine is attached to the transverse upper frame corners. The fuel tank is mounted slightly lower on brackets. The vertical uprights of the front plan accommodate intermediate shaft supports. In order to install running shaft bearings, it is necessary to connect specially designed supports to the longitudinal angles.

As a result of the entire process described above, an excellent walk-behind tractor with a center of gravity located above the wheel support surface is obtained. It is quite possible to use a metal weight on the front frame element. By using pipe crossbars with diameters of thirty millimeters, you can achieve excellent manual control. A rubberized roller can become a material for the direct manufacture of wheels.

The self-made walk-behind tractor uses two specialized sprockets. One of them plays a leading role, and the second affects the intermediate shaft.

Do-it-yourself walk-behind chainsaw friendship

When creating a walk-behind tractor from a Druzhba brand chainsaw, you must use exclusively metalworking skills. In this case, turning work will not be needed. The normal speed limit of the device being created in first gear will be equivalent to 2.5 kilometers per hour. In this case, the engine power is four horsepower. For soil milling, the indicated indicators are quite sufficient.

In its essence, the structural component of the walk-behind tractor is as simple and accessible as possible. A collar flange RU-32 is carefully placed on the main shaft. It allows you to easily screw on bridge type gearboxes. It is quite possible to take it from the Uazovsky Bridge. There, the diameter of the element in question is approximately thirty millimeters. In order to increase the total distance from the ground to the gear axle, it is necessary to use a double-row chain together with two sprockets from a VAZ vehicle. Timing belt type stars allow you to increase the distance to the ground by a full fifteen centimeters.

Case-type bearings must be attached to the main axle. Direct bearings have an internal diameter of thirty millimeters. A moped motor from the Karpaty brand acts as a gearbox and gearbox. In this case, a standard centrifugal clutch is actively used. Chinese models of Delta mopeds are perfect for installation on a walk-behind tractor with their chains and sprockets.

A steel tube is mounted on a wheel axle or a milling cutter.

A fully completed work process will allow you to thoroughly enjoy the created masterpiece.

The main advantages of a self-assembled walk-behind tractor are:

1. Complete absence of lubricant requirements;

2. Complete absence of requirements for combustible materials;

3. Autonomous activity;

4. Use anywhere.

The walk-behind tractor was built in the “Technical Creativity” club at the Yakovlevsky Polytechnic College. Designed for plowing all types of soils – both light and heavy. Ease of operation makes work tireless. The design turned out to be successful, minimal maintenance is required, and the performance and quality are excellent, and therefore there is practically no need to repair or improve the walk-behind tractor.

The reliability of the gearbox allows you to plow without special effort and virgin soil. Gearbox service life up to overhaul, at least ten years. Number of gears: 4 forward, 4 reverse.

Plowing time for 6 acres with average soil hardness is 25 minutes.

At the stage of designing the walk-behind tractor, we were greatly helped by publications in the “Modelist-Constructor” magazine of previous years. We chose the most valuable of them. This is how it was developed circuit diagram; a two-wheeled walk-behind tractor with a frame structure using a gearbox from a decommissioned Ant scooter in the transmission. To increase the traction force on the drive wheels of the walk-behind tractor, an intermediate shaft with a total gear ratio of 4.5 was developed.

Among the existing features of the mechanism, we note, first of all, the use of a relatively powerful power plant - an engine from the Ant scooter with forced air cooling. Control levers are standard. And finally, one more distinctive feature is a braking device, which is necessary when operating a trailer-trolley, which turns the walk-behind tractor into a cargo vehicle.

1 – engine; 2 – gas tank; 3 – battery; 4 – brake control lever; 5 – milling mechanism housing; 6 – differential control lever; 7 – engine air filter housing; 8 – relay regulator; 9 – chain protective cover; 10 – engine carburetor throttle control handle; 11 – protective wheel fender; 12-headlight-finder; 13 – direction indicators; 14 – muffler; 15 – kick starter; 16 – gearbox control lever; 17 – sound signal; 18 – clutch control lever; 19 – intermediate shaft; 20 – driving wheels; 21 – differential

When plowing with cutters, the drive wheels of most walk-behind tractors are removed, and cutters are installed in their place, and the plowing depth is adjusted using a braking device. Our walk-behind tractor uses a different cutter drive scheme; the differential is set to the neutral position, and the cutters are driven from the intermediate sprocket to the cutter shaft using a double-row chain from a VAZ car (from the gas distribution mechanism drive).

When the milling shaft is not in use, it, together with the housing, is removed from the lock and moved to the transport position, without interfering with the operation of the walk-behind tractor in other modes.

The transmission of the walk-behind tractor is a two-stage chain transmission with a pitch of 15.875 mm and an intermediate double-row chain for driving the cutter shaft, as well as a differential. The differential is connected to the drive wheels using two elastic couplings. The intermediate shaft is mounted on two sealed ball bearings 206. To tension all the chains in the walk-behind tractor, a device used in the gas distribution mechanism of VAZ cars is used. This device is simple and convenient.

1 – spar (channel 80×40, 2 pcs.); 2 – front brackets; 3 – rear bracket; 4 – battery frame; 5 – intermediate shaft bracket; 6 – control knobs; 7 – gearbox mounting plates; 8 – gearbox with differential; 9 – elastic drive couplings; 10 – T-200 engine (furnishings); 11 – milling shaft assembly (furnishings); 12 – traverse for attachments; 13 – bracket for sidelights

1 – frame spar; 2 – housing cover; 3 – shaft housing (cover removed); 4 – gear shaft (base – VAZ-2101 timing gear); 5 – bearing housing (rear axle VAZ-2101); 6 – bearing 180306; 7 – mounting bracket (angle 40×40, L120); 8 – chain tensioner assembly (VAZ-2101 timing belt); 9 – housing mounting axis; 10 – drive chain (VAZ-2101 timing belt – length according to location)

1 – intermediate shaft; 2 – driven sprocket z30; 3 – drive sprocket of the milling shaft z19 (from the VAZ-2101 timing belt); 4-bearing housing; 5 – bearing 80206; 6 – sprocket z16

The differential is taken from the Ant cargo scooter. It is good because it has reverse: forward, backward and neutral position, which is what we took advantage of when designing the walk-behind tractor.

When operating the walk-behind tractor as a cutter, standard wheels from the Ant scooter are used, and for working with attachments, a set of wheels from a walk-behind tractor with improved lugs is used. For plowing there is a set of special metal wheels with lugs in the form of metal plates.

A kick starter is currently used to start the engine; in the future it is planned to be equipped with a dyno starter.

1 – differential housing; 2 – differential housing cover; 3 – differential control shaft; 4 – brake drums; 5 – elastic coupling; 6 – brackets for fastening wheel guards

1- driving sprocket of the milling shaft; 2 – bearing housings; 3 – differential drive chain; 4 – intermediate shaft drive chain

To operate in conditions of poor visibility, as well as in the dark, it is equipped with a lighting device – a searchlight.

Later, we made a semi-frame with a seat for the walk-behind tractor, and we want to make a trailed trolley for transporting goods.

Our walk-behind tractor was named after spaceship Vostok-1, on which Yuri Alekseevich Gagarin made his unprecedented flight into space in 1961.

SPECIFICATIONS

Plowing strip width, mm…………………………………………………………800

Cutter diameter, mm………………………………………………………………………………380

Plowing depth, mm……………………………………………………………..20 – 200

Weight without motor and cutters, kg………………………………………………………30

Weight of cutters, kg……………………………………………………………………………….20

Engine…………………………………………………………….“Tula-200”

Motor weight, kg………………………………………………………………………………….36

Rated power, hp……………………………………………………………………13

Type of fuel………………………………………………………………………………AI-76

Fuel consumption per 6 acres, l………………………………………………………….1.2

Fuel tank capacity……………………………………………………….6

V. SHKARIN, Stroitel, Belgorod region.

For several years now I have been using a homemade one for hilling and weeding between rows in a potato field. motor cultivator. Despite the fact that its adhesive weight (and therefore the developed traction) is clearly less than that of a mini-tractor, I am satisfied with my motorized assistant. Although sometimes you have to put in extra effort to push the unit forward when working on heavy soils. In general, it turned out to be a reliable and compact car.

And I consider the ability to quickly convert it into an even more compact state (during transportation and storage) an additional advantage. After all, the real operating conditions for our mini-tillage equipment are such that they are more often idle than working. Winter is long, and garden plots, land plots are located far from garages and storage rooms where this equipment is usually stored.

The motor cultivator is assembled on a welded frame, where an engine with an air cooling system, a muffler, an air filter and a starter from a Druzhba chainsaw, a fuel tank, an intermediate shaft of a two-stage chain drive, a drive wheel, and a bracket for mounted implements are installed. motor cultivator There are no problems with storage and transportation, since

Then, unscrewing a couple of nuts and removing the corresponding bolt from the bracket for attaching the main rack to the frame, rotate the bracket and, tilting the rack forward until it stops against the channel cross member of the frame, proceed to the following two elementary operations: disconnecting the bracket for attaching attachments (unscrew the three bolts from below) and removing the drive wheel. By loosening the tension, you can also remove the chain connecting the drive wheel to the intermediate shaft of the two-stage transmission, and then, by slightly unscrewing the nuts securing the drive wheel axle, release it from the grooves.

Putting the motor cultivator into working condition is in the reverse order.

Other design features include a chain tension adjustment system. In the first stage, adjustment is made by moving the intermediate shaft assembly along the frame guide beam. First, loosen the two nuts of the clamp securing the intermediate shaft. Then move the shaft together with the clamp along the guide.

And having found the optimal position, secure it firmly. Only then tighten the second stage of the chain drive using a special sprocket.

The ball bearings of the intermediate shaft are fixed axially by spacers, which are installed between the corresponding sprocket hubs and bearings.

Nylon (fluoroplastic) bushings are inserted into the hub on both sides, acting as plain bearings.

The fuel tank was taken from an old motor bike. It is very convenient, as it has a decent volume of 2.5 liters, good fastening and a neck with a lid that ensures tightness during transportation. One filling of such a tank with fuel is enough to cultivate three plots of land of 6 acres each. motor cultivator To control the clutch, a factory handle with a “squeezed” state lock is used, which is necessary for starting and warming up the engine. “Gas” is regulated by a lever from an old motorcycle decompressor. As a power plant and the D4 engine of a motor bicycle is used. It is modified and equipped with starting and forced air cooling systems. The essence of the modification is that under the bolt securing the drive gear (with right side engine), a fan drive pulley with a ratchet for the starting system is installed. Everything is approximately the same as in

technical solutions

, a description of which can be found in “Model Designer” (No. 8?”79, 8”84, 2”87, 10”90). A pulley with a rubber belt transmits rotation to the impeller of an axial fan mounted on the engine head. The gear ratio of such a drive is i=0.5. The diameter of the fan impeller is 110 mm, the number of blades is 6. The fan is installed on two 200 bearings. A 2-mm steel plate with a centering (relative to the drive gear) belt is screwed to the clutch cover, and a coil with two mounting flanges is screwed to the plate. One of them is used to attach the starter from the Druzhba chain saw.

In addition, the modified engine has had the clutch lever replaced. It is made shaped, because the intermediate shaft drive chain goes up from the engine, and not down, as on mopeds. For the same reason, the upper partition of the cover covering the drive sprocket was also cut out. The exhaust pipe is shortened and rotated 180°. motor cultivator Used as a hiller

However, the latter is not necessary: ​​you can walk around the treated area twice, but with minimal effort. After all, a modified and well-maintained engine develops quite a lot of torque. And if something happens, the wheel will simply slip without overloading the power unit. motor cultivator And one more piece of advice. During operation

and wash the air filter every five hours of operation - you can’t go wrong. motor cultivator Kinematic diagram

A. Motor cultivator layout ( protective covers

removed): 1,2 - control handles, 3 - Ml0 bolt with nut (installed when the cultivator is in working order, 10 pairs), 4 - main stand, 5 - attachment rod for mounting attachments (2 pcs.), 6 - main stand mounting bracket , 7 - frame, 8 - second stage chain tensioning mechanism, 9 - intermediate shaft assembly, 10 - fuel tank, 11 - fan, 12 - muffler, 13 - air filter, 14 - D4 engine, 15 - drive wheel assembly, 16 - bracket mounting of mounted implements, 17 - working tool (cultivator or small plow).

Intermediate shaft assembly: 1 - hub with a pressed sprocket from a bicycle, 2 fastening wedge (2 pcs.), 3 - intermediate shaft (steel 45), 4 - housing (steel 20), 5 - clamp for fastening to the frame (spring steel) , 6 - ball bearing 80203 (2 pcs.), 7 - spacer sleeve (steel pipe, L12, 2 pcs.), 8 - hub (steel 45), 9 - sprocket from the D6 engine, 10 - frame beam.

Frame: 1 - rear cross member, 2 - bushing (StZ, 2 pcs.), 3 - rear strut, 4 - frame guide beam (channel 33x23.5x3 bent steel), 5 - gas tank support, 6 - middle strut, 7 - strut front, 8 - front cross member, 9 - side members, 10 - drive wheel axle brackets (STZ); det. 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 - steel pipe 26.8x2.5.

Main rack: 1 - spar (steel pipe 21.3x2.5 1.690, 2 pcs.). 2 - side handle bracket (St3.sheet.s3, 4 pcs). 3 - M10 nut, 4 - central bracket (StZ sheet s3), 5 - cross member (steel pipe 21.3x2.5, L200).

Left control handle: 1 - handle (from the motorcycle). 2 - clutch lever with latch (for the right handle - throttle control lever), 3 - rod (steel pipe), 4 - tip (StZ).

Main rack mounting bracket (StZ, strip 22x3).

Chain tensioning mechanism axis (steel 45).

Bracket for attaching mounted implements: 1 - cross member (40x40 angle), 2, 3 - left and right rods (40x40 angle), 4 - plate (StZ, sheet, s5).

Details of the chain tension mechanism: a - lever (StZ, strip 22x4, 2 pcs.), b - clamp (StZ, strip 20x1.5, 2 pcs.).

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