What to plant in a small garden diagram. Planning a garden and vegetable garden at a summer cottage from a to z

A garden and vegetable garden are integral attributes of any suburban area. You don't have to be to break them experienced gardener– it is enough to have minimal knowledge about the issue and, of course, good instructions.

Let's start with the fact that making a garden from scratch is much more difficult, because it will grow not for a year, but for several decades, so you have to take many points into account. Something may be planted in the wrong place, and years later these mistakes will make themselves felt. For example, a common mistake made by novice gardeners is to have the root collar of seedlings too deep.

The process is quite labor-intensive and consists of several important stages. Let's get acquainted with the features of each of them.

Stage one. Selecting a site

Choice suitable site great attention is paid - the relief, soil type, and depth are assessed groundwater, degree of wind protection and others important conditions. Thanks to agrochemical analyses, it is possible to determine the level of soil acidity and the concentration of nutrients, which will later help with watering, fertilizing, and liming. Determining the depth of groundwater will allow us to determine measures to minimize it. negative impact. In short, planting a garden should be done only after preliminary preparation, and gardeners are required to know about some aspects of land assessment.

Note! Row additional events It will help to make even land unsuitable for trees suitable (for example, drainage).

Relief

Gardens grow best on slopes with a steepness of no more than 8 degrees. The direction of the slope is also important - it should be southern, which means warm and well-lit. You should not plant a garden in a depression, because water accumulates there and cold air stagnates.

But most of the terrain suburban areas flat, without depressions or slopes, so there is no choice.

The soil

Fruit trees, as is known, have quite powerful root system, which goes deep vertically and spreads widely to the sides. This means that the nutrient medium is required in large volumes. Exactly because of this reason horticultural crops They develop better on rich soil that contains the required supply of elements and is sufficiently (but not too) moistened. Completely unsuitable for in this case swampy, rocky, heavily podzolized and clayey terrain.

As for the subsoil, it must be moisture- and breathable.

1. Apple trees require black soil, sandy loam or turf soil. It is important that the soil is loose and wet, however, apple trees cannot tolerate excess moisture.
2. Plums need moisture and rich nutrients loamy soil. They cannot tolerate moisture deficiency and dry air.
3. It is better to plant cherries on not too steep slopes with sandy loam soil.
4. Pears will grow best in light loamy soil.

Groundwater

Area with high level the passage of groundwater is dangerous for garden trees, because plants do not live long in such places. The roots, reaching the water, die due to oxygen deficiency, then the ends of the branches in the crown dry out, and later the twigs. Plants grow very slowly and soon die.

If you plan to plant apple trees, then the groundwater should be no closer than 2 m. For stone fruit varieties (cherries, cherries, apricots), which have deep roots, this figure is 1.5 m. Finally, for planting berry trees, the depth of the underground water may be even less.

About the satellites of fruit trees

Some forest trees grow in the same conditions as fruit trees. It has been proven that if oak, linden or maple grows well on the site or next to it, then fruit crops will develop quite successfully. But alder and horsetails indicate that the area is swampy, which means it needs to be previously cultivated. Thanks to all these signs, you can find out whether the land is suitable for a garden.

Wind protection

Many gardeners know that wind has a harmful effect on the garden. IN winter time it blows snow off the ground, increasing the risk of root system freezing. Large snowdrifts around the perimeter destroy the crowns. As for hot summer winds, they dry out the soil and prevent normal pollination by insects. Young plantings are swayed by the wind, which is why the roots of the seedlings take root more slowly. Finally, with a strong gusty wind, not only leaves are torn off and branches are broken, but the trees themselves fall.

Strong winds pose a particular danger in harvest years, when in just a day most of the fruit can fall to the ground. To avoid all this, wind protection is required - an excellent way to preserve the harvest and protect the plants from damage. For protective plantings, it is best to use fast-growing trees and shrubs, but they will be effective only several years after planting. Therefore, wind protection should be taken care of at least two to three years before planting the garden. Also the role of wind protection can play outbuildings, natural hills and forest nearby.

The most suitable tree species for wind protection are oak, poplar, birch, and linden. If shrubs are used, then it is better to give preference to yellow acacia, mountain ash, hazel and rose hips.

Note! There are clear distances at which protective trees and bushes. For trees this is about 1-1.2 m (within a row) and 1.5-2 m (between rows), for shrubs - 0.5-0.7 m and 0.7-1 m, respectively.

Stage two. Site layout

The land should be used rationally, and there should be no room left for weeds and various pests. In other words, the area should be densely planted. Fruit crops need light, and their roots need soil nutrition. Moreover, with proper placement, the garden itself will be more attractive.

Before you start, you need to plan everything. As a rule, gardeners use the same placement schemes, which may differ depending on the topography, climate and preferences of the gardeners themselves. One such scheme is shown below.

Out of eight to ten apple trees, five should be winter variety, two - summer and two more - autumn. It also provides for the creation of a gazebo and recreation area, and planting of flower crops.

Note! Pears and apple trees should be planted 5-6x4 m apart, while plums and cherries should be about 3x2.5 m apart. You can plant low-growing representatives of the same varieties between the rows of tall crops.

These low-growing plants are less durable; their fruiting will end by the age of twenty. At the same time, the crowns will reach full development, they will become too crowded, and you can get rid of the trees.

Stage three. Choosing a landing date

It is better to plant a garden in the central regions in early spring, i.e. until the buds swell (this is especially important for cherries). In the South, gardens are usually planted in the fall. What is also important is that in the spring, planting should be carried out before the seedlings begin to grow, and in the fall - during leaf fall.

We also note that before digging up seedlings, it is necessary to remove the leaves. The fact is that the leaves evaporate the moisture entering the plant, and if they are not removed, the likelihood of successful survival will decrease. The leaves are removed carefully, taking care not to damage the buds.

Stage four. Soil preparation

To obtain a good harvest, a deep arable layer of soil is required. Typically, root systems fruit crops They go into the ground to a depth of 0.8 m, which means that treatment and fertilization need to be carried out for the same amount. To do this, it is more advisable to use a small planting plow.

Stage five. Selection of seedlings

They must be purchased from a nursery that is located in the same region as future garden, otherwise there will be a risk that the plants will not take root. The roots should be branched, long (more than 30 cm), not frostbitten, and white when cut. High-quality seedlings have straight trunks, smooth bark and no visible defects. Finally, the crown should consist of at least three to four well-developed branches, which are directed in different directions, and necessarily with a guide (i.e., a leading shoot).

Gardeners have different opinions about the age at which trees should be planted. Some plant mature plants (eight- or nine-year-old), which quickly bear fruit, but are quite expensive, and they are quite difficult to plant. Others buy two- and three-year-olds, which are somewhat behind in terms of fruiting, but are cheaper.

Stage six. Preparation of seedlings

The procedure consists of two simple steps. Let's look at them.

Step 1. Roots

The largest roots are trimmed so that the cut area “looks” at the bottom of the hole. To do this, you need to use a garden knife (not pruning shears, as it crushes the wood and does not give an even cut). If the seedlings were obtained in the fall, but will be planted in the spring, then after pruning they are immersed in a clay solution and temporarily buried in the ground (this will prevent drying out).

Step 2. Crown

The length of the roots of dug up seedlings does not exceed 35-40 cm, while most of them (the roots), which is about 70%, remain in the ground. But the above-ground part remains the same, which is why the trimmed root system can no longer “feed” it properly. Therefore, branches in the crown should be cut to approximately a third of their length.

Note! It is more convenient to trim the branches after planting - this way a person can not only see their placement relative to each other, but also do the work with both hands.

Stage six. Digging planting holes

During the first two years after planting, the roots are within landing pit, which means they use moisture and nutrients from there. Therefore, at first, young plants should be provided best conditions for development.

The diameter and shape of the planting holes can be different, but in order to ensure uniform and proper development of roots, it is advisable to make round holes that taper downwards.

Note! There is an opinion that clay soils The bottom of the pit should be covered with a sand “cushion”, and on sandy ones – with clay. This is supposedly necessary for water retention. In reality, everything is not like that.

Pits under spring planting should be prepared in the fall, while for autumn - about a month in advance. Moreover, in the first case, before frost, the holes should be filled with fertilized soil, but not compacted.

Stage seven. Landing

Let’s make a reservation right away that we should go to sleep root collars it’s not worth it - when the soil settles, they should be flush with its surface. In principle, landing is the most important stage, the yield, survival rate and life expectancy of trees depends on it. The mistakes made here are quite difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to eliminate in the future.

The most common mistake is deep planting, which can only be discovered after several years. It is difficult to raise a deeply planted tree, and a novice gardener will definitely not be able to cope with this; moreover, he may even destroy the plant.

Note! If the groundwater is too close to the surface, then plants cannot be planted in holes - instead, mounds of soil are created. To do this, the planting sites are first dug up, then mounds of fertilized soil are poured onto them (width - 100 cm, height - 45-50 cm). Seedlings are planted on such mounds and tied to wooden pegs.

A few words about the landing board

When the planting sites are marked and the stakes are ready, you can proceed directly to digging. To avoid violation of straightness, a stake must be driven in the center of each hole.

It’s not easy to do this by eye, so you can resort to one simple adaptation- the so-called landing board. To make it, a board with approximate dimensions 200x15x2 cm. A triangular cutout is made in the middle of one side of this board. Similar cuts are made along the edges, 75 cm from the center, as shown in the images.

Such a board will allow you to install pegs to which the seedlings will be tied, exactly in the center of the holes. Next, the plants are tied to pegs as shown below.

After planting, the trees need to be looked after, fertilized and watered, but here everything depends on the specific tree species.

Video - Features of caring for fruit trees

Creating a vegetable garden on the site

Ideally, a vegetable garden should consist of beds located on sunny place and protected from the wind by those planted from the north fruit trees, as well as comfortable wide paths. Making a vegetable garden from scratch is not as difficult as a garden, but you can still encounter certain difficulties. You should start with preliminary preparation.

Stage one. Selecting a location

A place for a vegetable garden must meet certain requirements; let’s get acquainted with them.

1. The vegetable garden should be located in a sunny place. It is important that the plants are exposed to the sun for at least six hours a day.
2. Also, in the selected location there should not be strong winds or, as an option, the wind protection described above will be installed.
3. The beds must be located at least ten meters from trees and buildings.
4. Finally, the selected area should be level and located on a hill.

Note! If the garden slopes towards the south, the harvest will be early, while on the northern slope the fruits will ripen later than usual. The western and eastern slopes are also suitable for a vegetable garden.

It is not worth making beds in lowlands, as water will accumulate there. If there is no other way out, then you should take care of the system drainage grooves, and make the beds themselves no lower than 20 cm.

As for lighting, it is not easy to regulate. The only way is to get rid of objects shading the garden (with the exception of the north side). That is, there is no need to plant trees. But if they serve as protection from the wind, then it is necessary to at least thin out the crowns so that they do not cast a thick shadow.

Stage two. Planning

In most cases, it comes to the garden only after everything else is ready. All that remains is a piece of land on which the beds need to be laid out.

You should start by making a plan. What should be included in it? First of all, you need to indicate the number of beds, and also decide on their shape. It is advisable to make the beds square or rectangular, but if desired, the garden can be divided into sectors. You also need to raise them slightly (by about 15-20 cm, although the height can be greater) so that when processing plants you do not put too much strain on your back. The width of the beds is usually about 80 cm.

In addition, the plan should provide space for paths (for this, the distance between the beds should be at least 40 cm), as well as small areas for water containers and equipment. Such tanks, by the way, are needed when planting crops that like warm watering. Most of the costs here are for the arrangement of paths.

Note! You should not use roofing material or slate when demarcating - these materials are released into the soil harmful substances, due to which the crop can be hazardous to health.

We also need a place for a compost heap, where vegetable and organic waste. After two years, this waste will rot and serve as good fertilizer.

Stage three. Decor

If there is a lawn on the site of the future beds, then the selected area needs to be cultivated. There may be several options, but the most effective (and at the same time expensive) involves cutting off the top layer of turf (no more than 3 cm) and then evenly scattering a mixture consisting of sand, peat and manure. Then the area is dug up and beds are created. Another option is to dig up the ground so that upper layer went to a depth of about 15 centimeters, and in the first year grow potatoes on it.

The procedure for designing the beds itself is as follows.

Step 1. First, according to the drawn up plan, pegs are driven around the perimeter of the garden, between which a rope is stretched.

Step 2. Then the soil is prepared using one of the methods described above.

Note! The location of the crops must be changed annually, otherwise the harvest will become worse over time, and the soil will become unsuitable for cultivation.

Step 3. The soil is loosened. It needs to be made soft and airy so that the plants sprout easily.

Step 4. The boundaries of the beds are indicated. This can be done using the same pegs and rope, or you can plant perennial plants around the perimeter.

Step 5. At the end, paths are formed. They can be covered with gravel or laid with tiles (in the second case, the earth is compacted and covered with a layer of sand, after which laying is carried out).

Stage four. Planting

After creating the beds and paths, you can begin planting plants. To avoid any problems in the future, you need to follow the compatibility rules given in the image below.

That's all. As it turned out, if you do everything correctly, then it is quite possible to equip your house, garden and vegetable garden with your own hands. Even more useful information can be found in the video below.

Video - Planning a vegetable garden and laying out beds

Particular attention should be paid to planning the garden for planting vegetables; you should not think that this stage is not important, that you can simply stick a seed or seedling in and the earth itself will give birth. In our latitudes, this is unfortunately not the case...

Separately, it is worth noting that even vegetable beds can be like flower beds, no worse, and sometimes even better. In this case, your vegetable garden will become your flower garden at the same time, care will pay off handsomely, you will see that even vegetables can respond to care and care, just like flowers. Therefore, bringing love to the plot will undoubtedly be reflected in the harvest!

What should vegetable beds look like when planning a garden?

The first and most important rule is that the beds must be well lit, level and dry! That is, the sun should always fall on your bed, the bed should be raised, and, of course, level.

An example of a garden plan for planting

Please note that this diagram is presented as an example, first of all, as an idea from which you can build on in the future. I recommend paying attention to space optimization - the structure of the beds is made taking into account ease of placement vegetable crops.

The most common vegetables in the Middle Zone

In the list I presented the most popular crops among our gardeners. Of course, it doesn’t make sense to plant everything; it’s better to select some of them.

Root vegetables — radish, radish, parsley, carrots, beets, celery.
Fruit — eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, peas, beans, pumpkin.
Tuberous — potato.
Brassicas — cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage sprouts, Savoy sprouts, kohlrabi.
Onion — onions, garlic, leeks.
Perennials — horseradish, rhubarb, asparagus.
Spicy-tasting — watercress, sage, marjoram, caraway seeds, dill, thyme.

An example of a small vegetable garden layout

The diagram suggests the optimal combination of vegetables; this bed can be used as the basis for a future vegetable garden.

Original garden layout

A fairly ergonomic example of organizing beds; you can reach all the plants and provide the necessary care.

Classic raised beds - islands

It is also a fairly common option for beds, which has a number of advantages over simple bulk beds without sides. Please note that in any case, it is recommended to install a fine mesh net at the bottom of each box to prevent moles from damaging the crop.

Vegetable yield per square meter

I also consider it necessary to voice the concept of vegetable yield per square meter - this indicator is important for calculating the required types of plantings. The numbers reflect the ideal size of a hypothetical harvest.

For example, subject to all agrotechnical rules, on one square meter you can grow 30 kg of cucumbers, 5 kg of tomatoes, 6 kg of potatoes, 4 kg of root vegetables (carrots, beets, etc.), 2 kg of radishes, radishes and onions, 2.5 kg of peppers, eggplants, pumpkins, zucchini, 2-3 kg of peas and beans, 1.5 kg of lettuce and dill. The figures, I repeat, are approximate, close to ideal, but we need them to plan the size of the sown areas.

Divide the entire garden into parts

Divide the space into several parts, up to 5. Depending on the desired number and type of cultivated items. Change the location of planting one vegetable or another every year and maintain crop rotation. Take into account the recommendations on what is best to plant. More details in the table:

There are vegetables that need and do not need organic matter; some fill the soil with nitrogen themselves, while others take nitrogen from the soil. Plant vegetables in the same place every 4 years.

Table of distances between plants

It should also be noted that it is necessary to maintain distances between vegetables when planting. This is an important criterion for the full development of the plant and its future harvest.

Vegetable compatibility table

You can use beds effectively only if you combine plantings, mixing different compatible plants. This results in significant space savings, all the details are in the table:

Video on garden planning and vegetable crop rotation

For more information about crop rotation of vegetable crops, see the video clip from the editor-in-chief of the Sadovod newspaper, Yuri Bushuev. The material is very useful for all gardeners!

If desired, even small area you can organically place both the garden and the buildings and leave room for a beautiful gazebo or recreation area, the main thing is to approach this issue competently and thoughtfully. Such a landscape design technique as planning will help to realize your plans.

Garden and vegetable garden planning: preparatory stage

In order for all the plants in the garden to feel comfortable, it is necessary to select the most suitable places for them according to their preferences for soil and lighting. After this it is necessary to carry out detailed analysis area that will help rationally arrange objects landscape design, which are both finished buildings and current plantings, as well as planned ones.

• Your imagination has probably drawn a picture of the future orchard, mixborder or lawn. Guided by our internal sensations, make a rough sketch, without losing sight of any detail.
• Measure the area planned for fruit and berry crops. Please note that for each tree with spreading crowns you need to allocate at least 4 square meters. area.
• Choose predominantly flat or slightly sloping terrain for your orchard.
• For a vegetable garden, look for a place located on the south side; if this is not possible, choose another one, but sunny and moderately shady.
• Conduct a soil analysis; for trees, select an area with fertile soils of acceptable acidity (chernozem, sandy loam). Also pay attention to the proximity of groundwater, as this can have a bad effect on plant roots.
• Make a list of crops that you want to see in the yard of your house, study the features of their life activity to understand whether they will take root there.
• Plan the number of beds, think about whether you can handle the planting yourself, or whether you will have to call someone for help.

Creating a diagram and choosing a planning model

Drawing up a diagram is very important point, thanks to it, you won’t have to constantly measure the distances between objects and take into account all the nuances of the distributed territory.

• Start designing the site from the house or the area on which it will be built. Using paper or computer program make a plan of the area, draw the contours of all buildings on it, and also mark the points where trees already grow, indicating the dimensions.
• Using the measurements taken earlier, draw the outline of the garden, taking into account the distance from the boundaries of the plot. If you need to create a composition from several types of trees, bushes and flowers, clearly indicate the sizes and distance between them.
• It is most convenient to make a color sketch, this will make it easier and faster for you to navigate the project.

Garden layout: examples of models

There are generally accepted planting patterns, the use of which will greatly simplify your task and help you manage your territory wisely.

• Decorative model. Involves creating compositions from decorative bushes, flowers and trees. Most often it has the shape of a circle: they are planted in the center tall plants, and the edging is made from strawberries, raspberries or currants. Fruit trees are planted in the background.
• Rectangular. In this option, the garden and vegetable garden are laid out at the same time. Plants are planted in rows: first vegetables, then raspberry bushes, gooseberries, currants (at your discretion). Finally, the area is planted with fruit trees.
• Free model. The decisive factor in this case is the size of the plot. Although, even on 6 acres, create a full-fledged vegetable world will not be difficult for a person with a developed imagination.

DIY garden planning: fresh ideas

You will no longer surprise anyone with vertical or pyramidal beds, gardens on slopes or parterre lawns. We offer several new ideas that will make your dacha even more beautiful.

Decorative vegetable garden

Usually, after harvesting, the beds are empty in the second half of summer, making everything around gray and dull. Decorative vegetable garden - perfect solution this problem. If you use your imagination and plan the planting wisely, your dacha will soon be transformed beyond recognition.

To make your vegetable garden look more attractive, you can give the beds non-standard forms: ornaments of squares, circles, intersecting lines. Mini-beds will fit perfectly into the garden style if you create a background of perennials suitable colors. A border of boxwood, bush aster, lavender, parsley, low-growing basil or other crops will help separate vegetable plantings from other plantings. Entrance area will be decorated with an arch entwined with roses, clematis, and vines. Weaving from willow or walnut rods will serve as a fence.

When planning an assortment of vegetables, combine varieties with for different periods growing season. First, sow early crops (radishes, salads), and between them plant the plants that will replace them (zucchini, squash, peppers). Give preference bush varieties, this will make it easier to care for the beds. Don’t forget about flowers: hollyhocks, marigolds, calendula will become not only bright decoration, and will last until the frosts.

Dream garden

Wherever the garden plot is located, the layout is not only about correct placement. It is equally important to harmoniously combine the beds with lawns, front gardens, paths and other elements of landscape design, without which it cannot exist. suburban area, into a single composition.

If the plot is small, but you want to place several objects, you can make a multifunctional building, for example, instead of a separate standing gazebo, attach a terrace to garden house. It is also best to combine flower beds and vegetable beds using parterre lawns.

Cover a boring fence or an unattractive building with decorative landscaping from trees with a dense crown or trellises entwined with vines. On the contrary, highlight landscapes that are pleasing to the eye with decorative frames.

Think over the routes: make those that will be used more often as convenient as possible for movement, and make the walking areas winding and winding. Draw the outlines of the tracks on the diagram.

When planning a garden, do not forget about views. It is especially pleasant to observe the picturesque landscapes from the windows of the house, while in the gazebo or sitting on a bench. Therefore, plant beautifully flowering large plants, as well as fragrant herbs and flowers in recreation areas.

Garden and vegetable garden planning photos of originally designed plots

Gardeners and designers are coming up with more and more new design options dacha area. Take a closer look, maybe you will like something too.

• Looks festive and lively Vacation home, if you decorate its facade and the surrounding area with beautifully flowering decorative deciduous trees, vines, columnar conifers. In the middle of round flower beds, spherical or weeping trees.
• A romantic garden looks simple and beautiful rustic style. The idea is natural compositions And unpretentious plants.
• A clearly structured vegetable garden area, consisting of many rectangular beds framed by boxwood borders, looks equally expressive in summer and winter.

Bottom line

Layout personal plot allows you to work out the overall picture of a garden or vegetable garden on paper so that the lines of compositions, lawns, fruit and berry plantings form a harmonious pattern.

Vegetable garden planning- great art. With a sensible approach, you can count on good harvest. I suggest you step by step instructions garden planning. Following simple tips, even a beginner can cope with a rather difficult task - to competently plan a vegetable garden.

Step one. Decide on the crops you plan to grow this year.

Once you start deciding what vegetables to plant in your garden, you will notice that the possibilities are endless. There are thousands of varieties of tomatoes alone! When choosing varieties, pay special attention to the descriptions in the catalog. Each variety will be slightly different: one will produce a larger yield, another will be suitable for small vegetable gardens, since it requires less space, the third offers greater resistance to disease, the fourth has greater tolerance to cold, and so on ad infinitum.

Give up the habit of constantly using your seeds. Any variety gradually degenerates. Buy new varieties of vegetables every year and experiment.

Step two. Conduct an inspection of the site.

In order for garden planning to be successful, you should draw a diagram of the garden and mark on it:

• shaded places,
• the sunniest places
• low places,
• sandy places,
• areas with heavy clay soil.

Based on this information, you need to choose the optimal location for each plant.

Let's decide on the crops you will grow in the shadow. The darkest places are best reserved for planting fragrant herbs: cardamom, mint, parsley. Sorrel and spinach also do not need large quantities sun. Leeks and garlic feel good in the shade. Penumbra Suitable for growing beets, broccoli and cauliflower. But for tomatoes, peppers, melons and pumpkins, it is best to reserve the most sunny places.

The most low places the plot is suitable for growing cucumbers, cabbage, onions and garlic, radishes, sorrel, spinach and lettuce.

Sandy places allocate for growing early ripening vegetables, since sandy soil warms up faster and will provide the necessary heat to the vegetables as they cook abundant growth. Clay soil, on the contrary, warms up more slowly and is suitable for late crops.

You have already made the first sketches of the garden plan, you can move on to the third planning step.

Step three. We decide on the final arrangement of vegetables.

You have already staked out some places for certain vegetables. Let's bring the plan to fruition. Read the article about. Now you can wisely choose neighbors for your vegetables.

Step four. We are planning watering.

Think about how you will water the garden. You may need a place to run a hose or spray tape or a wider path for water supply. If you collect rainwater for irrigation, select a place for this in the center of the garden and install containers there to collect rainwater.

Step five. We outline the beds.

Now that we have decided on a place to grow vegetables and a method of watering, we need to think about the size and placement of the beds. The approximate desired yield will help determine the size of the beds.

These are very approximate figures. Your harvest may be larger or smaller. These numbers are given to give you an idea of ​​the size of the beds.

Competent beds must meet several requirements.

1. You should be comfortable caring for your garden beds.

To do this, provide paths between the beds. They should be no narrower than 30 cm. The width of the bed should not exceed a meter. It is better to make narrow and long beds - they are easier to weed. If you can approach the bed only from one side, and on the other it is adjacent to a building or reservoir, then let the width of such a bed be no more than half a meter. Long and narrow beds are very convenient both for sowing and harvesting.

1. The direction of planting should be from south to north.

This way the plants will receive more light. This will have a good effect on productivity. If you live in a cold climate, make the beds slightly sloping. Let them be a little higher on the north side, and a little lower on the south side. This will help the soil absorb a little more heat.

The beds can be fenced - this will save you time next year, because the beds will already be ready.

If you have a small garden, consider growing two or more crops in the same bed at the same time. Take advantage. Some crops can be grown one after the other within one season - consider this possibility.

Well, here's the stage garden planning has come to an end, it's time for real work. Don't throw away your plan. Next year you can check it and choose new places for vegetables, because it is not recommended to grow the same crop in one place for several years in a row. Moreover, there are rules for crop rotation, following which you will increase the productivity of your garden.

Many of our compatriots have their own country plots or dachas. It’s rare that a land owner doesn’t take advantage of the opportunity to grow their own crops to pamper themselves with natural food. However, summer residents are not always happy with the arrangement of plantings on their acres, which affects the convenience of caring for the garden, and, accordingly, the harvest.

Development of a project for a plot and layout of a vegetable garden on 6 acres

The layout of a garden and vegetable garden on a country plot is just as important as the correct one, so this step on the path to arranging a country home needs to be given special attention. To successfully design a garden and vegetable garden, you need to draw it up on paper.

In addition to the house or dacha structure, it is necessary to place on the plan all the necessary plantings that are planned to be grown.

There should be room here for fruit trees and shrubs, and for vegetables, as well as for decorative flowers. For ease of harvesting and caring for plants land plot It is recommended to divide it into several parts.

The decorative area should be located closest in order to constantly please the owners and decorate the house, and the fruit, berry and vegetable area should be some distance away from the house.

Landscape design option for the site

Planning a garden begins with a choice suitable place near the house. In order for the choice to be made correctly, some existing conditions should be analyzed:

Choosing a place for fruit and berry crops

Confusion when choosing a location for certain shrubs is extremely undesirable and can lead to a poor harvest, so drawing up a plan for the location of fruit and berry plantings will help to avoid this. When drawing up a garden plan for 10-15 acres, you must consider the following:

Location of ornamental plantings on the site

For many summer residents, a country plot is not only a place for growing crops. Most city dwellers go out of town to relax from the everyday hustle and bustle, so a favorable environment is very necessary for them.

In order for recuperation after a hard week of work to be most productive, you should take a responsible approach to the planning of your decorative garden. Let's consider the key points that you need to pay attention to when organizing a site:

Vegetable garden layout

Not a single plot of land for a country house is complete without a vegetable garden.

An original option for arranging a garden in a country house

Particularly hardworking people grow everything that can be accommodated on it, while others only provide themselves with fresh herbs for the summer table. Be that as it may, when planning vegetable beds, you cannot do without drawing up a plan. Let's consider the main features of the garden layout:

• Taking into account that most vegetables are light-loving, it is necessary to provide them with sufficient light;
• Particular attention should be paid to watering the beds. To do this, it is necessary to provide a system automatic watering, or simply install containers to collect rainwater;
• It is necessary to think over the location of the plantings in such a way that it is convenient to reach the middle of the bed. The optimal width is 1.2 meters;
• The distance between the beds should be convenient for movement. As a rule, the width of the paths is made at least half a meter;
• In order not to litter the area with cut tops and leaves, you should think about creating a compost pit.