What does dill go with in the garden? Compatibility of plants in the garden: which crops can be planted nearby and incompatible proximity

Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest - not only different breeds trees, but also shrubs, grasses, mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure the closest possible proximity. different cultures. They should not grow in large masses, but in adjacent rows or holes.

It's better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is shadow and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, you will need a creative approach and your observations.

Culture compatibility

First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect the greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.

Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. Exactly this efficient use your piece of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Communal" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between the rows. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon upper leaves the cabbages closed in, and my celery ended up in the lower tier, in dense shade.

I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.

I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes; we had to be content with only greenery.

Celery planted together with early cabbage is another matter! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots - best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. A bed from under early radish You can sow with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots sprout slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radishes. This way I get a double harvest from one bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They highlight in environment different substances that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, early cabbage and tomatoes feel good next to each other, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to disease and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Romance of onions and melons

I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the onion bed, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

Neighbors in the garden

Crop rotation helps to avoid uniform soil depletion. As a rule, plants are planted in the same place only after 3–4 years. Exceptions are beans, tomatoes, potatoes And strawberries They can be planted in the same beds every year.

Crop rotation helps prepare the soil for future plantings. Plants with a short root system are replaced by plants with long roots that go deep into the ground. First, plants that are susceptible to certain diseases are planted, and then other plants that are resistant to these diseases are grown in this place. It helps to grow good harvest, which will be stored throughout the long winter. Highest value this applies to nightshade crops ( potatoes And tomatoes ). Plants from the same family are usually susceptible to the same diseases.

In England in early XVIII V. There were cucumbers rare plant: doctors doubted their usefulness, believing that they caused colds, and some even believed that this vegetable was poisonous.

Typically, root crops are alternated with plants that provide valuable above-ground parts. For example, cabbage And tomatoes alternate with carrots . On the spot garlic And Luke You can plant any crops. But it is not recommended to re-sow bulbous plants.

For change Potatoes and tomatoes include cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, peas, beans, carrots, beets, lettuce, parsley, dill, garlic, celery.

On the spot cucumbers, squash You can also grow zucchini cabbage, radishes, onions, garlic, beets, beans, peas, potatoes and tomatoes.

beds with dill, parsley, celery and carrots alternate with garlic, onions, peas, beans, tomatoes And potatoes.

If strawberries were grown in one place for 4 years in a row, then they need to be replaced legumes And roots. Then a year later - zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers. Then they are replaced onion And tomatoes.

On the spot onion, garlic And legumes You can plant any vegetable crops.

Each vegetable has its predecessors, who prepare the ground for it in the best possible way:

1) for green vegetables and herbs (except lettuce) – root vegetables, cabbage, cucumbers, onions;

2) for cauliflower and early white cabbage – tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, onions, root vegetables (except turnips, radishes, radishes and rutabaga);

3) for white cabbage with average and late dates ripening - potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, beets, legumes;

4) for onions – tomatoes, cucumbers, early potatoes, early and late White cabbage, legumes;

5) for cucumbers – cauliflower and early white cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, root vegetables (except carrots), legumes (except beans);

6) for carrots – greens (except lettuce), cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, legumes (except beans);

7) for beets – pumpkin, cucumbers, cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, tomatoes;

8) for potatoes – zucchini, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, cabbage, root vegetables, legumes, onions;

9) for physalis, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers – cucumbers, cauliflower and white cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, legumes, root vegetables;

10) for garlic – tomatoes, early and late white cabbage, cucumbers, legumes.

Planting compatible plants leads to increased yield. Otherwise, the yield will be lower.

Legumes They go well with cucumbers and give a good harvest next to potatoes, radishes, mustard, radish, spinach and sweet corn. Beans replenish the soil with nitrogen. Fragrant basil protects beans from damage by bean weevil. It is useful to plant borage, rosemary, yarrow and oregano next to them.

Grape grows well next to radishes and radishes. Parsley helps rid grapes of phylloxera.

Excellent neighbors peas with carrots, turnips and cucumbers. It can be planted between the rows of these plants. It, like all legumes, saturates the soil with nitrogen and promotes a good harvest.

Mustard drives away the pea moth from peas and has a depressing effect on the growth of weeds.

Peas Can be planted next to celery and oats. Tomatoes and mustard stimulate its growth.

There are plants that promote growth strawberries This is spinach, parsley and beans. Garlic protects it from pests. If you plant parsley between the rows of strawberries, there will be no slugs. Strawberries go well with onions, radishes, cabbage, radishes, beets and salad. Among the herbs in the neighborhood, it is better to plant sage and borage. If you mulch the soil around strawberries with pine needles, the taste of the berries will improve.

For white cabbage Good neighbors include celery, onions, dill, lettuce, radishes, bush beans and potatoes. To improve the taste of cabbage, you can plant dill in the spaces between the rows. In addition, this grass repels aphids and caterpillars. Celery helps cabbage protect itself from cabbage flies and flea beetles. However, its smell attracts cabbage whites. Therefore, these two plants should not be planted next to each other.

Cabbage grows well next to borage. She drives snails away from the cabbage. Salads protect cabbage from flea beetles.

Butterflies often lay eggs on cabbage. They help this plant protect itself from them. spices. With their smell, they overshadow the smell of cabbage and thus protect it from butterflies. Around cabbage you can plant wormwood, mint, hyssop, savory, chamomile, and sage. Leeks have a repellent effect on cutworm caterpillars.

Some flowers repel insects (aphids, white flies, carrot and cabbage flies) - nasturtium, calendula, marigolds. They can be planted between cabbage rows. Parsnips have the property of attracting predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.

Near broccoli Onions, lettuce, celery, and beets grow well. You should not combine cabbage with tomatoes, carrots and beans.

Potato grows well near eggplants, corn, cabbage, spinach, onions, horseradish, garlic, beans and mint. It prevents the beans from being damaged by the bruce, which feeds the tubers with nitrogen.

All of the plants listed above have roots of different lengths. Therefore, they take moisture from the ground different levels. If you grow potatoes with compatible plants, they are less likely to get sick and can grow in one place for many years. At the same time, potatoes will produce a stable harvest.

Potatoes go well with onions, cabbage, radishes, carrots, lettuce, garlic and dill. However best partners for him are bush beans, spinach and beans.

You can plant horseradish in bushes around a potato plot. Coriander, catnip, marigolds, tansy, and nasturtium are suitable for repelling the Colorado potato beetle. Onions and garlic have a detrimental effect on late blight, a potato fungus.

Corn It is demanding on the soil, so it grows well next to beans and is a support for them. Corn also gives big harvest next to cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, lettuce and early potatoes. Cucumbers can be planted right around corn beds. Corn also goes well with sunflowers.

In Europe, since 1991, carrots have been classified as fruits. In Portugal they even make jam from it!

To compact corn beds, use pumpkins, zucchini, peas and beans - these plants climb along the corn stalk. Soybeans protect corn from stink bugs. You should not plant celery and beets next to it.

A good combination is carrot And onion. They protect each other from onion and carrot flies.

Onion grows well next to watercress, strawberries, radishes, cucumbers, beets, parsley and tomatoes. The growth of onions is enhanced by proximity to savory and chamomile. However, these plants rarely need to be planted.

Onions and garlic nearby protect cucumbers from bacteriosis. Do not plant legumes (beans, broad beans, peas) and sage next to onions.

A beneficial neighborhood is also observed among fruits and berries. For example, Apple tree prevents the appearance of raspberries gray rot, and raspberries do not allow scab to appear on the apple tree.

Carrot Grows well next to tomatoes, onions, dill, and lettuce. Planted along the edge of a bed with carrots, beets make the first one healthier.

Mint and lemon balm grow well in sorrel thickets.

Place under sea ​​buckthorn Suitable for strawberries, as well as oregano and chamomile. These herbs and sea buckthorn leaves can be used to make tea.

cucumbers goes well with cabbage and peas, but cannot stand grapevine. Sowing dill between rows of cucumbers increases the fruiting period of the latter. Cucumbers go well with lettuce, onions, beans, celery, parsley and beets. If you plant onions next to cucumbers, spider mites will not appear.

Walnut loves to grow up alone.

For tomatoes you can plant dill and garlic next door. Tomatoes themselves protect many plants from pests. Tall tomatoes repel the codling moth from pears and apple trees, and they also protect these trees from scab. Tomatoes enhance the development of cabbage, onions, peas and beans, and therefore increase their yield. Their taste improves if basil is planted nearby.

Radish grows well next to cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes, pumpkin, beets, and spinach.

Salad repels insects, such as flea beetles, from cruciferous plants (cabbage, radishes and radishes).

If radish planted among bush beans, it will be tastier and larger. The same effect is achieved by combining this root vegetable with watercress and nasturtium.

For beets a good combination is peas, cabbage, lettuce, parsley and dill.

Celery prefers to grow next to beans, tomatoes, onions, spinach, cabbage and cucumbers.

If between the bushes currants plant an onion and leave it in the ground for the winter, the bush will be protected from bud mites.

Plants such as marigold And asparagus, protect the garden from nematodes (roundworms).

They have been planting in the neighborhood for a long time pumpkin, corn and beans. Pumpkin provides great shade and thus prevents weeds from growing and protects the earth from overheating. Beans replenish the soil with nitrogen. The plants listed here have root systems of varying lengths. They take moisture from the soil at different levels and feed on different mineral elements. They require different lighting. That's why pumpkins, corn and beans grow well together.

In the area between vegetables and fruit trees you can plant spices. Basil, anise, lemon balm, coriander, thyme, parsley, and tarragon will grow well here. These plants repel many insect pests with their aroma. They also protect the garden from certain diseases.

To protect against nematodes, nasturtium, calendula, marigolds, and chicory are planted between rows of potatoes and onions. You can incorporate rye straw into the soil for the same purpose.

Leaf mustard, marigolds, calendula, spinach and celandine have a healing effect on the soil.

If you plant calendula around a rose bed, the roses will be protected from nematodes.

Parsley heals vineyards that suffer from phylloxera and drives away ants. Dalmatian chamomile, and tansy cinerarialis, protects cabbage beds from aphids, cabbage cutworm caterpillars and white moths. The same plant prevents the appearance of aphids, codling moths and other insect pests on apple trees. Previously, the powder from this plant was used to combat flies, bedbugs, fleas and cockroaches. Sometimes he helped get rid of mice. You can also use pink tansy (Persian chamomile) or red tansy (Caucasian chamomile) for these purposes.

Next to the salad you get a good harvest of cucumbers, carrots, radishes and legumes.

For the beans better neighbors are cucumbers, cabbage and sugar beets. It helps protect other plants from the meadow moth.

Garlic saves the garden from many diseases. It protects carnations, asters, gladioli from powdery mildew, black spot, black leg and fusarium. It also reduces the incidence of gray mold infestation of cloves.

Plants can also negatively affect each other - impede growth, attract pests, and contribute to the occurrence of diseases. It is not recommended to plant such incompatible plants nearby.

They influence each other badly legumes(peas, beans, soybeans) and garlic and onions. Also, the growth of legumes is hampered by nearby wormwood and marigolds.

Cabbage and grape.

Peas will not grow next to tomatoes, beans, rutabaga, or garlic. Wormwood is a bad neighbor for it.

Walnut shades and prevents any plants from growing under its crown.

Cabbage incompatible with tomatoes and carrots. It is also undesirable to plant next to parsley and grapes. A bad neighbor for a leafy one cabbage is tansy.

Potato often affected by late blight if tomatoes, pumpkins and sunflowers grow nearby. Raspberries, cherries, apple trees, rowan trees, and sunflowers have a depressing effect on it. Can't stand celery potatoes in the neighborhood.

Negatively affect corn beets and celery.

If planted next to currants And gooseberry, then the gooseberry moth will be damaged.

Don't plant raspberries Near strawberries. This combination of plants leads to the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil. Strawberries, nightshades and sea buckthorn suffer from the same diseases.

Tomatoes stifle growth cucumbers Cucumbers also do not grow well next to potatoes and herbs.

Among fruit trees Such effects are also observed. Peach has a depressing effect on pear, apple and cherry trees. These trees need to be planted at a considerable distance from each other. Parsley is incompatible with lettuce and cucumbers.

Tomatoes make it much more difficult to grow grapes And they themselves, in turn, do not grow next to turnips and potatoes.

For radishes Hyssop and spinach are negative neighbors.

WITH leaf mustard Don't plant lettuce.

Beet does not grow next to spinach, potatoes and corn.

A tree like poplar, harmful to apple trees and corn.

Pumpkin inhibits growth potatoes.

Shallots are not allowed to grow beans.

Fennel negatively affects almost all vegetable and other crops.

Some herbs prevent vegetables from growing. Sage is not recommended to be planted next to onions, beans do not grow next to marigolds, wormwood makes it difficult for peas and beans to grow, and tansy is bad for kale.

Cabbage is the lady in the garden. Cabbage loves light, cool air temperatures (17–19 degrees), moist, humus-rich soil with a pH of 6.5–7.5. Cabbage does not like acidic, dense, poor soil, drought, heat and shade. All members of the cabbage family (cruciferae)

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One of the secrets of successful gardening is allelopathy - compatibility vegetable crops. In other words, this is knowledge about how plants are "friends with each other." This approach will help not only achieve high yields and healthy crops, but also preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of farming.

When a summer resident draws up a planting plan for his plot, he needs to know what grew on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and produce a good harvest.

Crops differ in the time of fruit ripening. This allows you to rationally distribute plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. The size of the plants, their need for light and soil moisture, resistance to pests, and requirements for fertility must be taken into account. In the latter case there are strong consumers nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors influencing the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.

All of the above criteria lay the basis for natural farming called "mixed plantings".

Planting vegetable crops - after which predecessors can you expect a good harvest?

What are mixed plantings?

This is the method organic farming, based on many years of experience of famous gardeners who carefully observe natural natural processes V flora and implementing them in their areas. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.

The essence of this method is to land on one plot of land different vegetable crops in such a way that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.

Advantages of the method

People who have been planting vegetable crops using a mixed principle for several years now note the following: positive sides this approach:

• The yield has increased significantly - 15-20 kilograms per 1 m 2;
• there is no need to thoroughly weed out;
• the time spent on gardening work has been reduced;
• the vegetables in the garden practically stopped getting sick, they appearance became healthier;
• it became possible to obtain fresh vegetables before the first frost;
• the taste and aroma qualities of products have improved;
• mixed plantings attract more pollinating bees;
• the plants' need for watering has been reduced;
• the available land area began to be used more rationally;
• soil depletion has stopped with further prospects for its improvement;
• the need for crop rotation disappeared.

When creating the right mixed plantings in the garden, a separate “kingdom” is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, above- and below-ground insects and other representatives of the fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, as in wildlife. Of course, a person does not completely withdraw from work, but he physical work in the garden is reduced to a minimum.

Basic rules for mixed plantings

Some simple rules will help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:

• The optimal width of the bed is considered to be 1 meter.
• The main crop is planted in the center of the bed, and the accompanying crop is planted on the sides.
• Slowly ripening species are chosen as the main ones, which grow strongly by the time of fruiting, for example, tomatoes.
• The accompanying persons are low growing plants with a fibrous root system, retaining moisture in the ground and ripening quickly, for example, greens. By the time the main crop begins to mature, the friendly ones around it will already be gathered and make room.

For correct combinations plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table when planting.

Compatibility of vegetable crops with each other

The plant compatibility table clearly shows what can be planted with what and how plants influence each other.

Name of culture	Friendly neighbors	Beneficial features	Unfriendly neighbors
Watermelon	beans, potatoes, sow thistle, pigweed, oats
Basil	sweet peppers, peas, all types of cabbage, tomatoes, eggplants, asparagus	repels ants, aphids and other pests; protects tomatoes and corn from hornworms, beans from bean weevil	cucumber, rue
Eggplant	pepper, bush beans, onion, spinach, lettuce, peas, thyme, basil		fennel, cucumber, pumpkin
Vegetable beans	all types of cabbage, peas, carrots, radishes, rhubarb, cucumber, beets, corn, potatoes, pumpkin, sage, zucchini, strawberries, mustard, lettuce, rosemary	legumes are able to enrich the soil with nitrogen; repel the Colorado potato beetle, get rid of wireworms	fennel, peas, onions, garlic, marigolds
Peas	basil, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, eggplant, Beijing, legumes, carrots, turnips, cucumber, radish, radish, parsley, zucchini, pumpkin, watermelon, corn	improves the taste of watermelons and their growth; enriches the soil with nitrogen	hyssop, wormwood, rhubarb, beans, rhubarb, tomato, onion, garlic, beans
Mustard	all types of cabbage, radish, legumes, peas, beets, spinach		beets, rapeseed, turnips
Melon	corn, radish, radishes, beans		potatoes, cucumbers
Zucchini	onions, corn, beets, legumes, bush beans, mint, radishes, nasturtium		Potatoes, pumpkin
White cabbage	radishes, beets, potatoes, lettuce, cucumber, celery, beans, spinach, onions, fennel, dill, beans, mint, sage, coriander, rosemary, thyme, basil, thyme, marjoram	stimulates the growth of celery	carrots, tomato, grapes, turnips, garlic, parsley, tansy, cauliflower
Broccoli	parsley, beans, potatoes, onions, beets, lettuce, carrots, sage, celery, dill, rosemary, oregano, nasturtium, mint, chamomile		tomato, turnip, strawberry, cauliflower
Brussels sprouts	potatoes, beans, mustard, sage, mint, celery, hyssop, lettuce, dill		Strawberries, tomatoes
Kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, radishes, onions, beets, spinach, peas, mint, dill, potatoes, fennel, basil, mustard, pepper, chamomile, sage		tomato, beans, strawberries, horseradish, garlic
Cabbage	potatoes, mint, sage		tansy
Cabbage	peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, carrots, mint, mustard, sage		Strawberry, tomato
Cauliflower	lettuce, cucumber, celery, potatoes, beans, mustard, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, thyme, sage, grapes		tomato, strawberry, white cabbage, beets, broccoli
Potato	onions, white cabbage, corn, horseradish, garlic, beans, radishes, eggplant, radish, calendula, legumes, spinach, lettuce, horseradish, nasturtium, marigolds, thyme, coriander, beets, watermelon, amaranth		fennel, pumpkin, quinoa, tomato, cucumber, melon, celery, sunflower, zucchini, rhubarb
Watercress	radish, radish, turnip, onion, nasturtium, spinach, tomato, grapes	improves the taste of radishes	cucumbers
Corn	potatoes, lettuce, beans, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, peas, watermelon, artichoke, melon, tomato, soybean, basil, grapes, sunflower, lettuce	provides good shade for watermelons, melons, pumpkins, cucumbers and improves their growth and taste	fennel, onion, beets, celery
Bulb onions	carrots, cucumber, beets, tomato, cabbage, chicory, strawberries, spinach, watercress, chamomile, zucchini, watermelon, melon, fennel, savory, marjoram, pepper, potatoes, dill, parsley, borage	repels pests from carrots; improves tomato growth	sage, beans, beans, radishes, radishes, peas, turnips, asparagus
Leek	celery, parsley, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, beets, borage, beans, strawberries	repels aphids and cabbage cutworm caterpillars	beans, broccoli, peas
Carrot	cucumber, onion, radish, peas, beets, sage, parsley, radish, spinach, lettuce, peas, rosemary, sage, tobacco, tomato, garlic, chives, marjoram, strawberries	scares away onion fly	beets, anise, parsley, fennel, dill, celery
Cucumber	corn, late white cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, beans, dill, fennel, peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, spinach, beets, radishes, celery, chamomile, eggplant, legumes, cilantro, peanuts		tomato, marjoram, potatoes, watercress, melon, eggplant, basil, rhubarb, sage,
Pepper	tomato, basil, lovage, spinach, geranium, petunia, marjoram, carrots, onion, eggplant, tomato, thyme, coriander	promotes the growth of basil	kohlrabi, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, fennel
Parsley	onions, grapes, strawberries, spinach, thyme, asparagus, lettuce, dill, peas, zucchini, radish, radish	improves the taste of tomatoes; heals vineyards; repels slugs among strawberry plantings	carrots, celery, lovage, cilantro, white cabbage
Rhubarb	celery, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, spinach		potatoes, turnips, radishes, onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, peas
Radish	tomato, beans, spinach, carrots, cabbage, celery, lettuce, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, peas, onions, parsley, cucumber, potatoes, watercress, garlic, grapes, strawberries, clover, beets, melon, turnips	stimulates grape growth	fennel, rhubarb, hyssop,
Radish	cucumber, melon, tomato, carrots, spinach, beans, fennel, beets, cabbage, parsnips, beans, grapes, watercress, parsley, strawberries	protects cucumbers from leaf beetle and spider mite and improves their taste; has a beneficial effect on the soil	hyssop, beets, onions, rhubarb, celery
Turnip	radishes, peas, watercress, spinach, beans		tomato, rhubarb, mustard, onion, grasshopper, knotweed
Salad	legumes, parsley, beets, peas, potatoes, strawberries, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, turnips, pumpkin, beans, celery, spinach, eggplant	improves the growth and taste of tomatoes; protects crops from flea beetles	carrots, beets
Beet	onion, radish, cucumber, carrots, garlic, cabbage, zucchini, beans, tomato, fennel, beans, peas, lettuce, potatoes	stimulates grape growth	chives, celery, corn, dill, mustard
Celery	cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, beans, tomato, beans	protects crops from flea beetles; repels white butterflies from cabbage	corn, potatoes, carrots, radishes, beets, parsley
Asparagus	basil, parsley, tomato, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce		spinach, beans, onion
Tomato	basil, radishes, parsley, onions, garlic, lettuce, beans, carrots, sow thistle, corn, spinach, sage, asparagus, beans, early cabbage, beets, celery, radish, lemon balm, marigolds, stinging nettle, pepper, thyme, mint		quinoa, turnip, potatoes, dill, peas, fennel, pumpkin, kohlrabi, cucumber
Pumpkin	corn, mint, peas, beans, radishes		potatoes, peppers, pumpkin, tomato, zucchini
Dill	broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, lettuce	increases the yield of cucumbers and cabbage; repels aphids and caterpillars	carrots, tomato, beets, basil, potatoes, beans
Bush beans	cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, radish, lettuce, turnip, celery, tomato, savory, spinach, eggplant, grapes, pumpkin, strawberries, beets, corn, zucchini, borage	enhances the taste of radishes and potatoes, protects against pests	garlic, onion, peas, kohlrabi cabbage, dill, pepper, asparagus
Fennel	White cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumber, onion, radish, beets		eggplant, cumin, radish, beans, carrots, tomato, potatoes, coriander, pepper, spinach, corn
Horseradish	potato	protects against potato bug	kohlrabi, radish, radish
Garlic	parsley, tomato, beets, carrots, lettuce, cucumber, radish, strawberries, potatoes		beans, beans, cabbage, peas
Spinach	compatible with almost all crops	accelerates the growth of onions, creates a favorable microclimate	asparagus, fennel, zucchini

Planting strawberries

To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender crop, you need to choose the right proximity of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, as well as leeks, which protect against gray rot.

Calendula and marigolds help control nematodes. In autumn, these flowers can be crushed and mulched between the rows. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves taste.

Neighborhood with carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.

Strawberries have no bad neighbors in the vegetable garden, although opinions regarding their proximity to them remain controversial different types cabbage It is believed that culture does not love close location birch trees, but it does well near spruce and pine trees, whose needles can be used as mulch.

Nutrient requirements of vegetable crops

Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle they can be classified:

• Strong consumers: cabbage - white, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red, Peking; pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, celery.
• Average consumers: radishes, potatoes, eggplants, beets, carrots, spinach, chicory, lettuce, onion, fennel.
• Weak consumers: radishes, beans, peas, spices, herbs.

We talked about what it is and what, in fact, these plantings are eaten with. We found out that growing several crops in one garden bed is modern, aesthetically pleasing, useful and beneficial to everyone.

It remains to decide on one very important question in the matter of joint planting: what can be planted with what? It is known that some crops get along well in one garden bed, while others, on the contrary, oppress each other. Such mutual influence is called the beautiful term allelopathy. In order not to make a mistake and not be disappointed in mixed plantings, even when planning the placement of crops, it is necessary to take into account their compatibility. Our plant compatibility table will help you...

Plant compatibility table for mixed plantings

Main crop	The best accompanying crops	What does the neighborhood provide?
Watermelon and melon	Peas, corn, sunflowers, radishes, beets.	Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, and corn and sunflowers provide natural shading.
Eggplant	Bush beans, onions, lettuce, savory, spinach, tarragon.	Such companion plants improve the composition of the soil and help eggplants grow. Beans repel the Colorado potato beetle.
Peas	Eggplant, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumber, radish, salads, tomato.	Corn can provide natural support for climbing peas.
Strawberry (strawberry)	Cabbage, onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, cumin, garlic.	Phytoncides of onions and garlic repel pests. Other neighbors have a beneficial effect on the soil and growth of strawberries.
Zucchini	Corn, mint, nasturtium, radishes, beans.	Mint, radishes and legumes accelerate the growth of zucchini.
Cabbage	White clover, hyssop, potatoes, bush beans, leeks, chard, mint, nasturtium, borage, cucumber, wormwood, tomato, rosemary, lettuce, beets, celery, dill, chicory, thyme, sage, spinach.	Celery and lettuce protect against flea beetles. Aromatic and spicy herbs repel cabbage butterflies, and cabbage cutworm caterpillars do not like leeks. Dill improves taste and helps in the fight against cabbage aphids and caterpillars. Borage repels snails. White clover growing under cabbage attracts predatory spiders and insects that eat the pest caterpillars.
Potato	Marigolds, beans, cabbage, kohlrabi, coriander, catnip, corn, bush beans, nasturtium, radishes, salads, horseradish, cauliflower, spinach.	Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle, and horseradish provides protection against the potato bug.
Onion	Strawberries, cabbage, potatoes, watercress, carrots, cucumber, radishes, chamomile, lettuce, beets, thyme, spinach.	Carrots help repel the onion fly, and thanks to their proximity to cucumbers or spinach, onions grow larger.
Carrot	Peas, onions, radishes, rosemary, tomato, beans, garlic, sage.	Onions help repel carrot flies.
cucumbers	Pharmaceutical chamomile, marigolds, beans, peas, cabbage, corn, onions, borage, sunflower, radishes, lettuce, beets, celery, dill, beans, fennel, garlic, spinach.	Radish protects against leaf beetles and spider mites. Neighborhood with other crops improves the taste of cucumber. Legumes have a beneficial effect on the soil.
Bell pepper	Basil, marigolds, geranium, coriander, catnip, onion, marjoram, carrots, nasturtium, petunia.	Companion plants increase the yield of sweet peppers. Basil improves the taste of the fruit.
Tomatoes	Basil, marigolds, calendula, cabbage, corn, bush beans, lemon balm, onions, carrots, mint, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, celery, savory, garlic, sage, spinach.	Accompanying plants improve the quality of fruits, extend shelf life, and repel pests. Spinach has a positive effect on the growth of the root system.
Radish	Peas, onions, carrots, cucumber, pumpkin, beans.	Peas stimulate the growth of radishes, and proximity to beans improves their taste.
Celery	Peas, cabbage, onions, leeks, tomatoes, beans.
Pumpkin	Peas, corn, mint, nasturtium, sunflower, radish, beans.
Beet	Cabbage, kohlrabi, catnip, radish, radish, salads.	Companion plants create favorable conditions for the growth of root crops.
Garlic	Strawberries, carrots, cucumber, tomato, beets.	Associated plants heal the soil.

The crop compatibility table can be used to plan both mixed and traditional plantings. It’s just that in the second case, “friendly” plants are placed not in one bed, but in neighboring ones.

This list is, of course, far from exhaustive. For example, there are “sweet couples” - combinations of two cultures that have the best effect on each other. What is called “ze best”. For example…

Watermelon and peas
Beans and rosemary
Grapes and mustard
Melon and radish,
Parsnips and peas,
Radishes and bush beans,
Turnips and peas
Lettuce and radishes
Celery and cabbage
Soybeans and corn,
Asparagus and parsley
Pumpkin and corn.

And there are also plants that get along with any neighbor without any problems and even help in every possible way to the one growing nearby. These are spicy and aromatic herbs such as oregano, mint, lemon balm, thyme and sage, as well as parsley, cilantro, lettuce, garlic, radishes, spinach and tarragon.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Any piece of land can accommodate and feed the more living beings, the less their needs and interests collide with each other. K. I. Timiryazev.

Experts believe that between plants, as well as between people, depending on many natural factors a wide variety of relationships are established. They can be friends and even protect each other from pests and diseases, they can simply tolerate someone’s proximity, maintaining neutrality, but they can also compete with each other and even quarrel, even physical destruction opponent.

Any personal plot with a garden, vegetable garden and flower beds located on its territory is a community of plants that live according to their own rules and laws and which should be taken into account by both gardeners and gardeners. For example, experts believe that almost all crops feel comfortable next to raspberries. The fact is that this plant is a nitrogen fixer and enriches the soil with oxygen. They recommend planting an apple tree next to the raspberries, and so close that their branches can touch. With this arrangement, the raspberries will protect the apple tree from scab, and that, in turn, will protect the raspberries from gray rot. Good compatibility barberry with honeysuckle and plum. Hawthorn maintains good neighborliness with cherries and cherries, but only on condition that there is a distance of at least 4 m between them.

Grapes and pears get along well together. The tree does not suffer from the fact that grapes entwine it; the grape vine also feels good. Grapes with Schisandra chinensis or actinidia can maintain a favorable relationship, so you can safely entwine a gazebo with these plants. personal plot.

Brian Robert Marshall

Let us give a few examples of undesirable proximity of plants in the garden.

Experienced gardeners know that a pear planted in close proximity to a cherry tree will constantly get sick, and red and black currants will not grow next to plums, cherries or cherries.

The close proximity of gooseberries and currants provokes the active reproduction of a pest dangerous to these plants - the gooseberry moth.

The apple tree reacts extremely negatively to the close proximity of apricots, cherries or cherries, so it is better to avoid such combinations in the garden. Also, apple and pear trees do not like lilac, viburnum, roses, mock orange, and barberry.

The cherry tree has a negative attitude towards everything that is under its crown. For this reason, it is impossible to plant seedlings of any other trees under the cherry tree - they will be doomed to death.

It is not recommended to plant birch next to growing trees and shrubs, since its powerful root system consumes a lot of water and deprives neighboring plants of moisture. Spruce and maple can have a similar effect.

Juniper should not be placed next to a pear, as it can infect fruit tree fungal diseases.

Compatible and incompatible crops in garden beds.

The table below is based on long-term observations from Ecology Action group specialists (based on the book “How to Grow More Vegetables” by John Jevans).

	Compatible	Incompatible
eggplant	beans
peas	carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn	onions, garlic, potatoes, gladioli
cabbage	potatoes, celery, dill, beets, onions	strawberries, tomatoes
potato	beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish	pumpkin, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries
strawberry	bush beans, spinach, lettuce	cabbage
corn	potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, pumpkin
onion garlic	beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, celery, carrots	peas, beans
carrot	peas, lettuce, onions, tomatoes	dill
cucumbers	beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers	potato
parsley	tomatoes, asparagus
radish	peas, lettuce, cucumbers
beet	onion, kohlrabi
celery	onions, tomatoes, bush beans, cabbage
tomatoes	onion, parsley	cabbage, potatoes
turnip	peas
pumpkin	corn	potato
bush beans	potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, celery, strawberries	onion garlic
spinach	strawberry

Note that there is other information about compatible and incompatible plants grown in the garden. We also present it so that gardeners have options to choose from:

• beans are compatible with cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, lettuce, radishes, beets, rhubarb, tomatoes; incompatible with peas, garlic, onions;
• peas are compatible with cabbage, pumpkin lettuce, carrots, radishes; incompatible with beans, potatoes, garlic, tomatoes, onions;
• strawberries are compatible with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes; no incompatible plant companions are indicated;
• cucumbers are compatible with beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, and onions; incompatible with radishes and tomatoes;
• potatoes are compatible with cabbage and spinach; incompatible with peas and tomatoes;
• garlic is compatible with strawberries, cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes; incompatible with beans, peas and cabbage;
• cabbage is compatible with peas, cucumbers, potatoes, garlic, head and leaf lettuces, onions, radishes, beets, celery, spinach and tomatoes;
• head lettuce is compatible with beans, peas, strawberries, cucumbers, cabbage, onions, radishes and tomatoes; incompatible with celery;
• lettuce is compatible with cabbage, radishes, beets, rhubarb, tomatoes;
• leeks are compatible with strawberries, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, celery and tomatoes; incompatible with beans and peas;
• radishes are compatible with beans, strawberries, cabbage, head and leaf lettuces, spinach and tomatoes, incompatible with onions;
• beets are compatible with cucumbers, lettuce and onions; incompatible with onions;
• rhubarb is compatible with cabbage, cabbage and leaf salads and celery;
• tomatoes are compatible with garlic, cabbage, head and leaf lettuce, leeks, radishes, celery and spinach; incompatible with peas, cucumbers and potatoes;
• onions are compatible with strawberries, cucumbers, head lettuce, carrots and beets; incompatible with beans, cabbage and radishes.

M J Richardson

Aromatic and medicinal herbs useful in the garden and beds.

This table is also compiled from the above-mentioned book “How to Grow More Vegetables.” Although there is similar information that even medieval monks used aromatic and medicinal herbs in their gardens and orchards to improve the taste of fruits and vegetables, increase productivity and repel pests.

Compatible aromatic and medicinal herbs for the garden and vegetable garden
Basil	Grows well with tomatoes, improves the growth process and taste of the fruit. Repels flies and mosquitoes
Marigold	Acts as a repellent for insects, including nematodes
Valerian	Good to have somewhere in the garden.
Hyssop	Repels cabbage cutworm and grows well with cabbage and grapes. Should not be grown with radishes.
Cat mint	Repels earthen (garden) flea beetles
Quinoa white	One of the best weeds for extracting nutrients from the subsoil; good for potatoes, onions and corn
Linen	Grows well with carrots and potatoes; repels potato flea beetle, improves growth process and smell.
Lovage officinalis	Improves the taste and condition of plants if planted in different places vegetable garden
Melissa officinalis	Grow in different places in the garden
Monarda tubular	Grows well with tomatoes, improves flavor and growth
Mint, peppermint	Grows well with cabbage and tomatoes, improves general state plants, fruit taste, repels cabbage cutworm
Nasturtium	Grows well with radishes, cabbage and pumpkin crops; grow under fruit trees, repels aphids, bedbugs, and striped pumpkin flea beetles.
Calendula	Grows well with tomatoes. Repels the asparagus leaf beetle, tomato worm and all kinds of insects.
Sow thistle	In moderation, this weed promotes the growth of tomatoes, onions and corn.
Petunia	Protects legume plants
Medicinal wormwood	Grows well with cabbage. Repels cabbage cutworm.
Chamomile officinalis	Grows well with cabbage and onions. Improves growth and taste.
Thyme (thyme)	Repels cabbage worm
Dill	Grows well with cabbage. Doesn't like carrots.
Fennel	Grow outside the garden. Most plants don't like it.
Garlic	Grow near roses and raspberries. Repels the Japanese beetle. Improves the growth and condition of plants.
Sage	Grow with cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers. Repels cabbage cutworm and carrot fly.
Tarragon	It's good to have a garden in different places.

We believe that within the framework of one article we have provided sufficient material (in fact, a lot of it) on the stated topic, so that workers summer cottages there was a choice: what was acceptable for them and what was not. We wish you success!

P.S. As you can see from this information, the plant community is doing well. They even identified a science that studies the influence of plants on each other - allelopathy. The situation is worse in a community of people, because if they do not get along together, they kill each other, and over the years they become more and more sophisticated - with guns, tanks, airplanes, missiles, etc. (usually for the sake of self-interest and greed). But tell me, my friends, how to sow each of us the garden of our soul? In her, somewhere around the age of 20, we already felt the emergence of weak, but quite unique and native shoots of an independent worldview. It doesn’t matter with what properties the seeds sprouted in each of us: something was passed down from our ancestors, something from the collective culture (morality) in which we managed to live. We accepted some of the ideology of the past with enthusiasm, doubted others, but the roots in our soul continued to grow. And then, those of us who have already reached old age are told: “No, sow the garden of your soul with new seeds, because those seeds that have taken root in your soul are bad, wrong.” But we see that the seeds offered are even worse than ours. As soon as we saw their sprouts in a new life, they seemed more unacceptable to us than our previous ones. Although... there is something in them, rather from the inevitability of human development. And our soul will not escape from them. They also begin to sprout in it, whether we want it or not. So we, the old gardeners of our souls, are forced to separate the strengthened roots of the past and the sprouting roots of the present from each other, because it would be a pity if they got mixed up, and it would be wrong. However, this is a sad task, gentlemen!