Strengthening the walls of the drainage ditch: five best ways. How to strengthen a ditch at the dacha? Options Strengthening the walls of the pit

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Installation

A drainage ditch in a dacha is something that exists near almost every site. And it’s not uncommon for problems to arise with it, namely, its walls crumble, as a result of which it becomes, at least, not beautiful, not to mention how it copes with its function. A function drainage ditch is to divert excess water generated during a flood or rainfall from the site and buildings on it.

Before strengthening a ditch in a dacha, you need to make sure that its design corresponds to the task assigned to it; below we will consider what options for constructing a ditch can be.

Construction of a ditch at the dacha, options

Depending on the slope of your site and the volume of water that your ditch periodically has to accept, you need to choose the type of ditch that suits your needs. In addition, you can pay attention to how your neighbor’s ditch is arranged, whether he is satisfied this decision, perhaps it would be better to make them the same and thereby ensure common system storm drainage near your sites. The picture below schematically shows the main types of ditch construction in a dacha and options for strengthening it.

An effective drainage system is not limited to just a ditch, it must consist of at least two independent networks

One of them is a linear sewer system, described in detail in this article. Typically, such a sewer system is built when the site is constantly flooded. The top point of such a sewer system is marked, depending on the slope of the site, and a network of channels is drawn from it; the channels themselves have a slope of at least 5 mm relative to the top point for each meter of the channel. Thus, all water from the site is collected in an open drainage system
The second is drainage around the house, described in detail here. For him, the top point will be the far corner of the building. The drainage network, arranged around the perimeter, is also made with a slope of the same 5-10 mm per meter, it is covered with turf or paving slabs

Let's consider Additional requirements to the system trenches. The trenches should be at least 50 centimeters wide and deep; it is advisable to make larger trenches near the foundation. In order to strengthen the bottom of the trenches of the systems, crushed stone, gravel or at least sand can be used; it is advisable to compact it. For the trenches of the above drainage systems, strengthening the walls is not required, since they are still covered with earth or inserted into them concrete trays, but for a ditch near the site this is necessary. We will look at ways to strengthen the walls of a ditch in a dacha below.

What methods exist for strengthening a ditch in a dacha?

The chosen method of strengthening the ditch depends on the slope of its walls. Depending on this angle they divide following methods fortifications

Strengthening ditch with improvised materials

The simplest and available material strengthening the walls of the ditch is slate. What it looks like finished

To build such a structure, we will need the slate sheets themselves, metal pipes or fittings, a sledgehammer to drive them in, of course, a shovel, possibly a crowbar. And also a grinder for cutting slate sheets into the required identical pieces; it won’t hurt to wear a respirator; there will be a lot of dust when cutting. Cut slate sheets are placed directly into the ground to a depth of about 30 centimeters, and the sheets should fit tightly to each other. Pipes or fittings are needed to secure the positions of the slate sheets; they are driven in in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the sheets.

Another material that is abundantly used by summer residents due to its availability is car tires. Old tires are laid in rows and fastened together with bolts or ties, the voids inside the tires are filled with soil or sand and gravel, and to give even greater strength to this structure, metal rods are hammered into the middle.

Another option with tires involves laying them not in rows, but in the form of a ladder. Each new row is laid on the previous one with a shift of half the diameter of the tire. When such a staircase is laid, it is also covered with soil or sand and gravel.

Geomats and geogrids

First, let's figure out what geomats, biomats and geogrids are. So, geomats and biomats are polymers with a waterproof structure; they are made from polypropylene lattices superimposed on each other under high temperature. This structure allows plants to penetrate through them, but at the same time it remains waterproof. let's consider approximate diagram laying geomats on a slope:

Geogrid is a polymer mesh with a square cell, usually on a polyester base. An approximate layout of its installation:

Rigid geogrid for ditch reinforcement

Geogrid is a stronger and more durable solution than all those described above; geogrid is made from polyethylene and polypropylene, this material is not subject to corrosion and can last a very long time for a long time. Geogrid is used in very deep ditches, almost ravines.

Let's consider an approximate scheme for strengthening a ditch slope with a geogrid:

1. Slope preparation, similar to geomats and geogrids

2. It is necessary to stretch the geogrid along the entire slope of the ditch and, if necessary, cut off the excess

3. The geogrid is secured to the ground with anchor rods, the thickness of which is 1.5 cm. and a length of 50 cm or more, it is necessary to install fasteners over the entire surface of the geogrid in a checkerboard pattern in increments of about 30 cm.

4. The geogrid cells are filled with either crushed stone, if the ditch is often filled with water, or sand, if it is dry most of the time. Just like the previous options, it is possible to sprinkle with soil and plant ground cover plants.

Strengthening the ditch with gabion

This is the most durable and strong, but expensive material for strengthening the walls of ditches and not only; factory products can be of almost any shape. Essentially this metal grill filled with stones made of galvanized wire with PVC coating for additional protection against corrosion. By the way, gabion is translated from French as a basket with stones.

Using gabion as a ditch strengthening material is a very expensive pleasure, therefore in this case We will not provide a diagram of its installation. With a factory gabion, it is advisable to order its installation on site from specialists; as a rule, such companies work this way. But the result is pleasing to the eye, if aesthetics and high-quality performance are important in this matter, despite the relatively high price, then this will be best choice. In addition, manufacturers guarantee 70 years of service for such structures.

To ensure proper drainage of the area, a drainage system must be used. To organize it correctly, you need to know what a drainage ditch looks like, as well as how to make one yourself.

Design features

A drainage ditch or drain is part of the drainage system, which is responsible for the direction of melt, ground and sediment water. There are several types of drainage trenches:

Perimeter;
Basic;
Additional.

Perimeter trenches are used when organizing sewage system around the building. They are dug around the entire perimeter of the house, allowing liquid to be drained away from the foundation. This system is more convenient to design than creating main and additional ditches, but is only suitable for small swampy areas. Sometimes they are placed along the road if your site is located on a hill or for the purpose of organizing economical watering.

The main ditches play the role of drainage in a large drainage system; their design is quite complex. A traditional drainage system looks like a real river bed. Additional trenches are dug to the main central trench, which help to ensure the drainage of water from a large area. In addition, in this design the drainage system is more efficient.

Ditches are also divided by type of construction. Depending on their type, they are closed or open.

Video on the topic:

When to use a drainage ditch:

If there is no slope on the site or it is very small, it is not enough for normal outflow of water;
To intercept wastewater near the foundation of a house, garden or vegetable garden;
For effective drainage of private land on peat soil.

How to make a trench

Before you make a drainage ditch in your country house or in the yard of a private house, you need to transfer its structure onto paper. The drawing will help calculate the required slope, pipe size, determine the type of ditch and its parameters. We recommend with finished project contact your geological organization for instructions settlement. In addition to the basic parameters of the trenches, you need to calculate the depth of soil freezing and the rate of average annual precipitation.

How to make a drainage ditch on summer cottage do it yourself: instructions:

This design of a drainage ditch is universal; the technology can be used both at the dacha and in a private house or cottage.

Few people will undertake to refute the assertion that today storm drainage and its variety - a drainage (also known as drainage) ditch - are an integral part of the entire improvement of the site, which is most susceptible to flooding during rains or meltwater runoff. At the same time, it also happens that few people have an idea of what a drainage ditch is and how to equip it.

What is a drainage ditch?

Strictly speaking, any is a special depression in the ground, arranged along the road or along the perimeter of an object or site.

Drainage ditch is a structure in the ground designed to protect the soil from erosion or waterlogging, collecting surface waters and diverting them to the nearest watercourse.

The principle of its operation is extremely simple: water accumulated after intense rainfalls does not stagnate in the area, but flows along the bottom of the ditch into a specially equipped drain or into a natural reservoir. If water is drained from the overlying territory, then such a drainage ditch is called upland. And if the diversion is carried out along the perimeter of the site or along the road, then this is a ditch.

What are the advantages of a drainage ditch?

First of all, such a ditch is designed to effectively drain water from the site. This way it will be possible to prevent such unpleasant phenomena as:

flooding of the site and its waterlogging, the formation of puddles in the area;
rotting wooden structures and plant roots;
inhibition of the growth of plantings on the territory;
the appearance of fungi and mold on the walls of buildings;
deterioration of health due to exposure to high humidity;
accumulation of dirt on the site.

Precipitation and melted snow cause considerable harm to economic activity, increase excess moisture in the soil, which can spoil landscape design, lead to death garden plants and destroy the foundation of the building.

In addition, digging a ditch, as a rule, does not involve the use of specialized heavy construction equipment. Literally every owner can take the most ordinary bayonet shovel and dig a ditch yourself. A drainage ditch is also the cheapest and effective method drainage It will require virtually no cash costs.

Disadvantages of a drainage ditch

However, this method of organization also has its disadvantages. For example, a ditch is less efficient compared to a linear one storm sewer and even with surface linear drainage.

The ditch does not have a long service life. However, if you approach its arrangement wisely and properly strengthen it, these terms will be extended significantly. But even so, the ditch needs regular maintenance - restoration of the embankment, cleaning and other repair work.

In addition, a drainage ditch can spoil the appearance of the site. But here, too, everything largely depends on the imagination of the owner himself. There are examples of drainage ditches successfully integrated into the landscape design and beautifully decorated.

A ditch is a long open drainage system of the simplest type, dug into the ground to collect and drain water that accumulates as a result of precipitation. large quantity precipitation.

Where are drainage ditches primarily used?

A drainage ditch, as a rule, finds its application on not too large private plots. This is due to the low degree of automation of work on its arrangement. And therefore in industrial scale drainage ditches are little used. This also happens due to the above-mentioned disadvantages - the need for frequent repairs, short service life, etc. It should also be borne in mind that, according to current regulations, it is forbidden to construct drainage ditches and lead them to:

reservoirs where fish and other living organisms live;
unfortified or washed out ravines and holes;
rivers with running water;
reservoirs that have beaches for recreation;
as well as to natural lowlands where the area is prone to waterlogging.

Important! It is prohibited to construct drainage ditches in places where the level of groundwater flow is at a depth of less than two meters. This is due to the fact that it is otherwise dirty waste water may penetrate into the aquifer. If groundwater is expected to occur on the site, then the drainage channels are equipped with closed trays.

The disadvantage of drainage systems is erosion and collapse of walls. Paving a ditch with natural stone is a way to strengthen the slopes of a drainage ditch, as well as give it an aesthetic appearance.

What are the technical requirements for drainage ditches?

In order to ensure the greatest operational efficiency, certain standards must be observed. First of all, care must be taken to ensure the required degree of slope of the ditch. If she breaks out for a small private territory, then we can proceed from the principle: 2 cm of height change for every meter of ditch length. In case of arrangement of drainage along roads and industrial facilities, the optimal tilt angle is 3-5 degrees.

The greatest efficiency of a drainage ditch is ensured by organizing the required degree of its slope.

If, for some reason, it is impossible to provide the required degree of slope, then it is necessary to organize special fast flows and so-called water wells along the water path. The minimum flow speed should be 0.3 meters per second. In this case, the ditch can effectively cope in most cases even with relatively intense water flows. As for the dimensions of the ditch itself, they are as follows:

width – about 50 cm;
depth – at least 70 cm;
the slopes on the sides should be at an angle of 30 degrees.

How can you strengthen a drainage ditch?

As already mentioned, one of the significant disadvantages that a drainage ditch has is that its walls and embankment are subject to natural destruction - crumbling and erosion. However, everyone can reduce the effect of this negative factor. And for this it is necessary to take measures to strengthen both the ditch itself and its slopes.

Firstly, even at the construction stage, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a special drainage sand and gravel layer along the edges of the ditch. A pillow 8 to 10 centimeters thick will be enough. After completion of the work, you can line the edges of the ditch with decorative or wild shrubs and trees. On the one side, root system they will strengthen the walls of the ditch, and on the other hand, give it a more aesthetically attractive appearance.

Often to strengthen the ditch and also to improve it appearance applies natural stone. With skillful layout, it can transform such a seemingly unprepossessing structure as a drainage ditch beyond recognition.

Geogrid is a honeycomb structure made of polyethylene tapes; it is used for reinforcing loose and heterogeneous soils, strengthening slopes and slopes.

It is also recommended to use a geogrid. With the help of special crutches it is attached to the bottom and walls of the ditch. The same material as geotextiles is recommended to be laid on the muddy soil of the main area of the canvas. The minimum thickness of the embankment on geotextiles should be at least 30 centimeters. Geotextiles can also be used to strengthen both the walls of the ditch and its bottom. The so-called turf is also used for this. The turf is cut into a thickness of 6 to 10 cm and laid out along the embankment. It can be secured with wooden knitting needles. Finally, you can simply show some imagination and use all kinds of available means to strengthen the ditch.

How to arrange a drainage ditch on your own

As a rule, owners small plots They prefer to make do with the arrangement of drainage ditches on their own. And in order for the ditch to operate with maximum efficiency, you first need to mark the area, taking into account the natural slope of the area. You can even make a plan on paper in advance. In order to understand from which places the water needs to be drained first, you can simply wait for the first downpour and see where exactly the water has accumulated the most.

Most good option– if the site itself is a sloping area. In this case, it will be enough to simply dig a U-shaped or L-shaped ditch. The “herringbone” arrangement of the ditch is also spreading, all the “branches” of which enter areas of the territory and then merge together - into the “trunk”. Taking into account the above parameters of the slope and the dimensions of the channel, a trench is dug, then the ditch is strengthened using one of the methods proposed above.

With the help of drainage ditches, damp areas are drained to prepare areas intended for the construction of buildings and structures.

What experts say

The construction of drainage ditches on the site is a necessity. If the owner takes care of their arrangement in a timely manner, he can protect himself from many problems at once. And a drainage ditch is exactly where work should begin to improve any area.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account the presence of obstacles and obstacles along the way. If there are bushes, they need to be torn down and replanted to avoid flooding of the root system. However, it is best, of course, to build a plan in such a way as to avoid any obstacles.

Alexander.

The site on which the house is built most often needs improvement drainage system. This is a rather complex and by no means cheap design. The most expensive option is gasket closed system, so many people choose open. It consists of several drainage ditches connected to each other. The main problem with this design is the gradual crumbling of the slopes, which eventually “slide” to the bottom. There are many ways to strengthen the walls of drainage ditches. Let's look at them in more detail.

When choosing a method for strengthening the slopes of a ditch, you should be guided, first of all, by the angle of inclination of its walls:

Slopes with an inclination angle of less than 8° do not need strengthening. For them, planting vertical and horizontal plants will be sufficient.
Walls, the steepness of which varies from 8 to 15°, must be reinforced with geogrids or geomats.
Slopes of significant steepness with an inclination angle of more than 15° must be strengthened using methods that involve internal reinforcement. Gabions and geogrids are well suited for these purposes.

In addition to the wall angle great importance has also the depth of the ditch. If it is small, you can strengthen the slopes by driving stones into them.

The slopes of drainage ditches need strengthening. If their depth is small, you can strengthen the slopes by driving stones into them

Option #1 - 3D geogrid

Geogrid is widely used to reinforce slopes. It is produced from polymer fibers with a reinforced monofilament intertwined structure and stitched cell nodes. To increase strength, the material is additionally impregnated with polymer compounds. The root system of plants easily penetrates through the cellular covering and forms a turf layer, which allows the soil cover to be securely fixed on the slope, strengthens the slopes and increases their stability.

The geogrid is being laid in the following way:

We level and compact the walls of the ditch using a hand roller.
We lay rolls of material along the trench at a distance that corresponds to the width of the panel.
We roll out the mesh, laying the strips almost end-to-end.
We secure the laid material every meter and a half with anchors with bent upper ends. If in this area are not uncommon strong winds, then it is best to use U-shaped metal brackets as fastenings.
We fill the fixed geogrids with soil or decorative material. It could be stone, crushed stone, etc. Suitable plants are sown on top of the soil.

Anti-erosion geogrid is resistant to rotting, corrosion, high and low temperatures. The material is not afraid of aggressive environments, withstands high stress and does not deform. Over time it performance characteristics don't change. The geogrid limits slope deformation and soil movement. The material becomes the basis for a strong mass that can withstand heavy loads. Including frost heaving, subsidence and soil displacement. Flexible coating can be used on surfaces of any configuration.

The geogrid limits slope deformation and ground movement. It is durable, resistant to aggressive environments and rotting

Option #2 - anti-erosion geomats

Geomats are structures formed by three layers of double-oriented polypropylene lattices. The meshes are superimposed on each other and fastened together with polypropylene thread. The structure of the resulting product resembles a washcloth, which allows it to fix the soil without interfering with plant growth. Over time, the roots of vegetation entwine the grids of geomats, which makes their structure even more durable.

Geomat has a porous structure that allows the root system of plants to easily pass through the material

Material properties:

resistance to UV radiation;
complete preservation of its properties in sea and fresh water;
resistance to aggressive environments;
non-toxic;
resistance to a wide range of temperatures;
low level of smoke generation and flammability;
resistance to microorganisms.

The use of geomats allows you to preserve the natural appearance and character of the landscape. The material is quite easy to install and, if necessary, can even be installed in winter period. The process of strengthening slopes is carried out in several stages:

We level and clear the walls of the ditch from debris.
We fix the upper edge of the first roll anchor bolts at the top of the slope.
Roll out the roll to the bottom and cut off the required length.
We carefully straighten the material and secure its lower part.
We lay the next strip of covering on top of the first with an overlap of about 15 cm.

A layer of soil 3-5 cm high is poured on top of the laid geomats, into which plant seeds are sown. Professionals recommend using this sowing scheme. Sow two thirds of the seeds on the open surface of the material, and a third on the backfilled soil. Seed consumption is about 40 g per square meter. meter.

After laying geomats and filling them with soil, you need to sow plants whose root system will strengthen the slopes of the trench

Option #3 - homemade gabions

Gabions are a frame made of metal mesh with cells in the form of a hexagon. The structure is filled with crushed stone, pebbles or stones. This system perfectly protects the slopes from crumbling. Gabions are made from a mesh made of double twisted metal, coated with zinc, galfan or polyvinyl chloride. The contents of the structure are selected in such a way that the filler fraction is smaller size cells. To facilitate installation, gabions are first installed, and then filler is poured into them.

There are two types of structures: mattress-mattress and box-shaped. The former are used to cover surfaces and give them shape. Retaining structures are made from box-shaped ones. They are used to strengthen the slopes of trenches. The porous structure of the product provides the necessary drainage properties, eliminates hydrological loads on the walls of the ditch and the removal of soil from the slope. The manufacturer guarantees a long service life of the structure, it can reach one hundred years. Gabions have a beneficial effect on the natural ecosystem, and their effectiveness only increases over time.

Gabions are very aesthetic structures. They not only strengthen, but also decorate drainage structures

The disadvantage of factory designs is considered to be their high cost. However, gabions can be made independently, choosing the most suitable sizes for specific conditions. The work is carried out in several stages:

We determine the dimensions of the future structure. For small areas, it is optimal to choose gabions with dimensions of 800*400*400 mm. We select the cell sizes, which should be larger than the diameter of the filler. Therefore, the latter must already be purchased.
We weld structures from rods with a diameter of 6 mm the right size rectangular shape.
We install the finished frames on the slopes of the drainage ditch.
We fill the gabions with pre-prepared filler.
We cover the top of the homemade gabion with a chain-link mesh. This way the structure will become more durable.

Chain-link mesh is susceptible to corrosion. The problem is solved in two ways. You can purchase a mesh with protection, PVC coated or galvanized. Or do the following: secure the regular mesh so that it can be easily replaced with a new one after a while.

Option #4 - volumetric geogrid

Geogrid or geocells, geocells are a geosynthetic coating, which is a three-dimensional structure made of tapes that are fastened together. During the manufacturing process of the geogrid, polyethylene tapes are welded to each other in a checkerboard pattern. The result is a reliable frame with cells of equal size.

Various fillers can be filled into geogrid cells. For “wet” ditches, pebbles or crushed stone are preferable; for dry ditches, sand is suitable

There are two types of geogrids available: with and without perforation. The first is characterized best ability to the drainage. It is this material that is recommended to be used to strengthen the walls of drainage trenches. Covering without perforation is allowed to be laid on slopes only if there is an intermediate layer of geotextile. Installation of the geogrid is carried out as follows:

We level the slopes of the trench, giving them the required form and compact the soil. If necessary, we lay geotextiles on the base.
We lay the material from top to bottom.
We stretch the geogrid and fix it with L-shaped anchors. The service life of the structure depends on the correct execution of this operation.
We fill the coating with bulk material. If the recess is filled with water, crushed stone, pebbles or any similar filler are laid. Sand is suitable for dry trenches.

Geocells differ in cell sizes and edge heights. The choice of material depends on the type of bulk material and the steepness of the slope. The product has good flexibility and high strength. It is resistant to various aggressive environments, does not rot or deteriorate, is non-toxic and has a long service life.

Option #5 - budget methods

The options described above are quite expensive. If you want to strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch according to the “cheap and cheerful” principle, you can use the following methods.

Using old tires

This cheap method involves using used tires, which in most cases can be obtained for free. For backfilling you will need normal soil or sand. Tires are placed in rows, with each next one moving by half the diameter of the tire. The parts are tightly connected to each other and reinforced with stakes that are driven into the center of each tire. The laid parts are covered with soil or sand. The gaps between the tires are also filled. The structure is ready.

Reinforcement with slate sheets

An even simpler option involves using slate sheets. You can use flat or wavy material. The sheets are secured with metal posts. The main advantages of this method can be considered low labor costs and low cost. Unfortunately, such a system will not last too long. However, it performs its function quite well and saves the slopes from sliding.

Strengthening the walls of the drainage ditch with slate sheets is one of the simplest, budget options

The drainage system is a necessary attribute of most sites. You can arrange it different ways. The simplest of them is open drainage ditches. To protect the slopes of trenches from collapse, you can choose various methods. You can decide on an option only after analyzing specific conditions, including the type of soil, the angle of the ditch and, of course, the financial capabilities of the owner. Experts recommend using modern reinforcing materials, which may be more expensive than “budget products.” But such systems will last a long time and will not cause trouble to the owner.

Expand to save required level soil moisture on the land plot. If groundwater lie close to the surface of the earth or there is heavy rainfall, then a drainage ditch is needed to remove excess water. A drainage ditch is usually located along the site.

The area where the house is built needs a drainage system - a complex and by no means cheap design

A closed drainage network (concrete pipes for a ditch) requires a lot of costs, so land owners prefer to deploy several open ditches interconnected. In this case, no pipe laying is required. However, an open drain also has a disadvantage. It consists in the fact that over time the slopes crumble. Therefore, it is advisable to strengthen them, especially if there is a drainage ditch along the fence.

The strengthening method is chosen depending on the angle of inclination of the ditch walls and the depth of the trench.

If the angle of steepness is less than 8°, then the slopes are strengthened by planting plants.
Geogrids and geomats are used to secure slopes whose angles range from 8° to 15°.
Steep slopes, the angle of steepness of which is more than 15°, are strengthened using reinforcement from the inside. For this, reinforcement methods with geogrids and gabions are used.

Shallow trenches are lined with stones from the inside.

Let's look at the most popular strengthening methods.

Option 1 - three-dimensional geogrid to strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch

Geogrid is very often used to fix a slope. It is a mesh made of reinforced threads intertwined with each other. The joints of the threads are additionally secured. Polymer material is used for production. Also polymer compositions used for additional processing to strengthen the mesh. The roots of plants planted nearby easily penetrate the mesh holes and thereby create additional soil anchorage on the surface of the slope.

Geogrid limits slope deformation and ground movement

The polymer from which the geogrid is made is resistant to rotting and adverse natural factors, corrosion processes. The mesh is not subject to deformation and has high wear resistance; able to withstand high loads and stress. Geogrid is made of flexible material, so it can be laid even on uneven surfaces.

Lay the mesh as follows:

Using a hand roller, the soil inside the ditch is compacted.
Next, rolls of material are rolled out, and the strips are joined together.
The material is secured inside the trench every 1.5 m with special brackets.
The mesh is decorated or camouflaged by backfilling or planting plants.

Option 2 - anti-erosion geomats

The structure of the geomat consists of layer-by-layer connected polypropylene lattices fastened with polypropylene threads. Outwardly, it resembles a multi-layered web. The gaps between the threads are small, so the geomat holds the soil of the slope and prevents the spread of vegetation roots. Over time, the plants tightly intertwine with the material and strengthen the walls of the ditch.

Polypropylene geomats are resistant to conditions external environment(exposure to water, sunlight, temperature changes, rotting), non-toxic, non-fire hazardous.

Laying the coating is easy and can be done even in winter. The work is performed in the following sequence:

Trench preparation, cleaning.
We fasten the edge of the roll with anchors to the top of the slope.
Roll out the material to the bottom of the trench and cut it off.
The lower part of the piece of material is secured.
Roll out the next strip of material from top to bottom, overlapping 15 cm with the previous one.
A 3-5 cm layer of earth is laid out on the covering and seeds are planted. At the same time, the mesh to strengthen the slopes is additionally reinforced with vegetation.

Geomat has a porous structure, which allows the root system of plants to easily grow through the material

Option 3 - homemade gabions

Gabions are a frame made of metal mesh filled with material such as stone, pebbles and others. The cell size of the frame is made larger than the poured material. This structure holds and decorates the slope.

The mesh is made of double twisted metal, galvanized or PVC coated to avoid corrosion. First, the gabion is installed, and then the selected material is filled in.

Gabions can be factory-produced or your own. To make gabions yourself you need:

Weld from twigs for the slopes of the ditch. The diameter of the rods is about 6 mm.
Install the frame into the ditch.
Next, fill the frame with pre-purchased filler and cover it with a metal mesh.

Option 4 - volumetric geogrid

Geogrid consists of ribbons of synthetic material bonded in such a way that the coating itself appears to be a honeycomb structure. Filler is poured into the cells. At high humidity It is preferable to fill with crushed stone or pebbles. If the slopes are dry, then sand can be used.

Geogrids are made from perforated strips and tapes. Perforated geocells have the best drainage properties, so they are the most preferable for strengthening the drainage ditch.

Coverings without perforations can be used if a geotextile layer is first laid!

The width of the tape determines the height of the lattice rib. The width of the cell also varies. The bulk material and the angle of inclination of the trench wall to be strengthened determines the choice of geogrid.

The material used for geocells is characterized by increased wear resistance, strength, resistance to putrefactive processes and other environmental influences.

Various fillers can be filled into geogrid cells

The coating installation process is carried out in several stages:

We level and compact the soil on the slopes of the ditch. If necessary, we line the bottom of the trench with geotextiles.
We lay the covering from top to bottom.
We stretch the covering and secure it with anchors with a curved upper end. It is important to do this correctly, since the service life depends on it.
We fill the geocells with filler.

Option 5 - budget methods

In conditions of shortage Money can be used economical options structures that will strengthen the slopes. Many ways have already been invented to strengthen a ditch in a summer cottage. Let's describe some of them.

Old tires - popular for summer cottages

The tires are laid in rows, secured to the surface and to each other. Then filler is poured, including into the spaces between the tires. The drainage hole is also reinforced with tires.

Slate sheets

The option is inexpensive and does not require special effort. Installed and secured slate sheets on the slopes of the ditch perform a strengthening function, but the material is not wear-resistant.

Slate is popular and cheap material, and besides, there is one in almost every area

We lay polystyrene foam with our own hands

An inexpensive option is foam slopes. The material is rot resistant. Polystyrene foam is also used as a geotextile layer. Strengthening the drainage ditch with polystyrene foam slopes is popular among owners of dachas and private houses.

Retaining walls

Retaining walls are a method of preventing soil from collapsing from slopes at different angles. It is widely used not only in drainage ditches.

Eat different types retaining walls. They are made from materials: wood, stone, brick, concrete and others. For drainage ditches, it is preferable to use moisture-resistant material: concrete, stone. The design of the retaining wall can be calculated by professionals or independently in specialized computer programs. Retaining walls are needed to strengthen the drainage ditch.

The structure of the retaining wall looks like this:

Foundation. Takes on the main load. This part of the wall is located below ground level.
Body. Actually the wall itself, which is created from selected materials.
. It is placed behind the wall above the foundation. It prevents erosion of the structure.

For example, consider the construction of concrete retaining walls.

Concrete reinforcement of a ditch in a summer cottage is characterized by strength and durability. If necessary, the concrete wall is decorated with stone, brick or other facing material. The first step is to dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the slope being secured against collapse. For example, for a slope of 1 m, a trench for the wall is dug 0.3-0.4 m deep. A frame is made from boards fastened together. A layer of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the trench and installed reinforcing mesh. Concrete is poured into the prepared frame.

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Wood is often used to strengthen the walls of the pit. To eliminate the risk of soil collapse along the perimeter of the pit, vertically position wooden beams end-to-end Spacers are placed on the bottom ( horizontal boards, abutting vertical ones).

There are many ways to strengthen yourself. Factory-made materials are considered more reliable than improvised materials. To determine the reinforcing material, analyze the type of soil, slope angle and financial capabilities. Strengthening the drainage ditch is important point, which must be taken into account when installing a sewer system in a dacha.

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