Composting (biothermal method) is a method of biological neutralization of the raw organic part of waste under the influence of aerobic bacteria. Household, some industrial and agricultural waste can be composted. Waste from hospitals, clinics, veterinary laboratories, and fecal matter cannot be composted. Before composting, substances that affect biological decomposition processes, such as pesticides, radioactive and toxic substances, must be eliminated.

The essence of the process is that various aerobic microorganisms actively grow and develop in the thickness of the garbage, causing a fermentation process with the release of heat, resulting in self-heating of the waste to 60°C (not lower than 50°C, can reach 70°C). At this temperature, pathogenic and pathogenic microorganisms, helminth eggs and fly larvae die, and higher rates of decomposition of solid organic pollutants in household waste are achieved, releasing carbon dioxide and water. This reaction continues until a relatively stable material (compost) is obtained, similar to humus, harmless in sanitary terms and a good fertilizer. The mechanism of the main composting reactions is the same as during the decomposition of any organic substances: more complex compounds decompose and turn into simpler ones.

Important for the life of microorganisms is the ratio of carbon and nitrogen, as well as the dispersion of the material, which provides access to oxygen. Dense wastes with a high moisture content (such as manure, wet activated sludge and many plant wastes) having a low carbon to nitrogen ratio must be mixed with hard material who takes away excess moisture and provides the missing carbon and the mixture structure necessary for aeration.

The main indicators characterizing waste as a material for composting include: organic matter content; ash content; content of total nitrogen, calcium, carbon. In table 6.11 shows the types of waste in accordance with the possibility of composting them.

Table 6.11

Suitability different types waste for composting

In practice the following are used industrial composting methods -.

• composting in piles without forced aeration;
• composting in piles with forced aeration;
• composting in facilities with controlled conditions (composting in drums, pond composting, tunnel composting, etc.);
• mixed systems.

The choice of composting methods is determined by the optimal combination of the cost of the process and the achieved effect of recycling composted waste. It must be remembered that the use of specialized equipment increases the cost of composting, which can reach significant values. However, the annual increase in the amount of waste stimulates the development of accelerated, mechanized methods their processing and leads to an expansion of their use.

In any case, to apply composting methods, special waste processing plants are built, where a complete waste disposal cycle is carried out, consisting of three technological stages:

• reception, preliminary preparation of organic waste;
• the actual biothermal process of neutralization and composting;
• compost processing and storage.

The most common and simple biothermal process is composting in piles without forced aeration. Waste neutralization takes a period of 6 to 14 months, while organic waste is delivered to special composting sites, where it is formed in piles- embankments in the form of trapezoids (can be in the form of shafts). The width of the base of the trapezoids is 3 m, the height is 2 m (in the northern regions the height is up to 2.5 m), the length is 10-25 m, the distance between parallel rows of trapezoids is 3 m. The bottom layer of the compost mass should be above the level groundwater at least 1 m. The surface of the piles is covered with a layer of earth or peat at least 15-20 cm thick, which prevents the spread of odor, the breeding of flies and retains the heat necessary for the high-quality decomposition of the biomaterial.

Application composting in piles with forced aeration allows you to increase the intensity of biothermal processes in the composted mass, significantly increase the self-heating temperature and significantly reduce the time for compost preparation (up to 1.5-2 months). In this case, aeration of the piles is ensured by a special installation that allows air to be supplied to the internal layers of stored waste, for example, using a fan, supply pipe and air distribution device.

In connection with the increased demand for soils and organic fertilizers, attention has increased to the separation of organic waste with its subsequent composting, and therefore the creation of various technical devices intended for composting. Thus, it is carried out composting in controlled facilities. Currently, the most common industrial composting methods are drum composting, pond composting, and tunnel composting. All these methods are based on the use of specially designed units to carry out the biothermal process in them. The waste remains in them for different periods of time, and the resulting materials have significant differences. So, composting in drums requires the waste to remain in the installations for about two days, during which time the decomposition process is just beginning, and then the material is placed in open areas for ripening. Composting in a holding pond takes 46 weeks and results in a stabilized finished product. If used tunnel composting, then after 7-10 days the material, in which decomposition processes are still actively occurring, contains a sufficient amount of carbon and nitrogen and is suitable for further processing processes, such as combustion or gasification. The main conditions for choosing the optimal composting method or developing a device for this process are the efficiency of its use and the possibility of using the resulting compost in the future.

In general, a composting device is a complex technical complex, satisfying the necessary environmental requirements. Annual waste processing in such a device can currently vary from 5,000 to 50,000 tons. The process of processing organic waste in special devices can be implemented in two ways:

• a) a large centralized device;
• b) a complex of devices with many decentralized units.

In practice, there is a tendency to build and operate

namely centralized composting devices. Firstly, despite the significant investment costs during the construction phase, the running costs of centralized devices are significantly lower. Secondly, composting devices must meet fairly high modern environmental requirements, which require the use of expensive technical and technological developments. These measures, such as solving the odor problem, can be implemented in centralized devices at significantly lower costs compared to decentralized ones.

Compost is the final product of organic waste processing and must be epidemiologically safe. The quality of the finished compost is one of the main criteria for production efficiency, but it is also important to take into account the quality of the feedstock. To calculate the quality of composting, an indicator such as the degree of decomposition is traditionally used, which is based on a standardized comparison of temperature during biological self-heating of the composted material.

The use of compost from solid waste is limited, since it should not be used either in agriculture or forestry, due to the possible content of heavy metals or other hazardous components that, through herbs, berries, vegetables, and milk, can cause harm to human health. For the same reason, the systematic use of such material in city squares and parks is impractical, so this material is used mainly as covering soil in landfills or when closing mine workings. However, if hazardous components are excluded from the initial waste at the collection stage, then compost from solid household waste can be used as organic fertilizer, while indicators of its safety are the data given in table. 6.12.

Table 6.12

Compost safety indicators

The main disadvantage of composting is the need to store and neutralize non-compostable waste components, the volume of which can constitute a significant part of the total volume of waste. In addition, during the composting process, substances are formed that have unpleasant smell and creating a burden for environment. Minimizing these contaminants can be carried out quite successfully using a biofilter, but it requires significant costs, especially considering that odors are formed not only during the decomposition process, but also during the delivery and preparation of waste, as well as during the subsequent processing of the finished compost.

The benefit of composting is that it reduces organic-heavy landfills and produces usable material.

Foreign experience

In Germany, the use of compost from solid waste as a fertilizer is prohibited by law due to the excess content of heavy metals.

is a simple, low-cost method of converting organic materials into a mixture to improve soil quality. When available own plot and there's enough space to accommodate a compost yard, why not take advantage of the opportunity?

This article talks about the benefits of composting, what composting does, what waste can and cannot be composted, how composting should be done, how to use ready-made compost, what problems may arise during the composting process and how they can be solved. The reader may also be interested in information about how a composting dry toilet works, which can be found.

Composting speeds up natural decomposition processes and returns organic materials to the soil. Through composting, organic waste such as wood scraps, sawdust, fallen leaves, and many types of kitchen scraps are converted into a dark brown, crumbly mixture that can be used to improve soil quality and reduce the need for fertilizers and water. Why throw something away if you can use it for your garden?

There are two types of composting: anaerobic (decomposition occurs in the absence of oxygen) and aerobic (decomposition occurs in the presence of oxygen). In this article I look at aerobic composting, in which the breakdown of organic components is carried out by aerobic microorganisms. This composting produces a stable final product without unpleasant odors, with a low risk of plant intoxication.

Compost is a conditioner. With its help, you can obtain soil with improved structure and quality. Compost increases concentration nutrients in the soil and helps retain moisture.

Recycling food and garden waste. Composting helps recycle up to 30% of household waste. The world is throwing away waste every day, and composting can help reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills.

Introduces beneficial microorganisms into the soil. Compost promotes soil aeration, and microorganisms contained in compost suppress the growth of pathogenic bacteria, protecting plants from various diseases and healing the soil.

Good for the environment. Using compost is an alternative to chemical fertilizers.

Composting process. Simple biology

Converting organic waste into compost does not require any complex equipment or expensive artificial additives. Composting waste is a natural process that occurs through organisms found in organic materials and soil that feed or consume each other to process the waste.

Bacteria perform the primary destruction of organic substances. Bacteria are not usually added to compost - they are already found in almost all forms of organic matter, and they multiply quickly under certain conditions.

Non-bacterial compost-forming organisms include fungi, worms and various insects. For them, the compost heap is a wonderful “dining room”. Fungi transform organic components, introducing them into the soil carbon dioxide. Worms consume organic waste, fungi, protozoan nematodes and microbes. Worms process organic matter very quickly, converting it into substances that are easily absorbed by plants. Composting waste using worms is called vermicomposting. The combination of conventional aerobic composting with vermicomposting gives very good results. Insects, by consuming other organisms and each other, also participate in the process of processing materials in the compost.

What waste can be composted?

Compostable materials can be roughly divided into brown and green. Brown (carbonaceous) materials enrich the compost with air and carbon, and green (nitrogen) materials enrich the compost with nitrogen and water. To create compost, you need to alternate layers of brown and green materials.

Table 1 - Materials for composting

You can also add garden soil to your compost. The layer of soil will help mask any odors, and the microorganisms in the soil will speed up the composting process.

These components should not be added to compost!

While many materials can be composted, there are some materials that should not be added to compost.

Table 2 - Materials that should not be added to compost

Getting compost

Choosing a Composting System

Composting waste can be done in a compost heap, hole, box or trench. It is more convenient to compost in a box than in a hole, and it looks more aesthetically pleasing than a heap, while retaining heat and moisture. You can make your own box from scrap lumber, wooden pallets, snow fences, chicken wire, old tanks or concrete blocks. For example, this article gives a drawing compost bin and explains how it is made. You can also purchase a ready-made composting bin. To begin with, it is better to use a one-box system.

Waste composting area

General criteria:

• The place should be at least partially shaded;
• It is better that it is at least 50 cm away from buildings;
• The site must be freely accessible so that materials can be added to the compost;
• It is good if there is a source of water nearby;
• There must be good drainage to ensure that water does not become trapped in the pile (this can slow down the decomposition process).

Adding materials

To begin with, you can measure out equal parts of green and brown materials to create a good mixture. For example, the optimal combination can result from an equal number of brown autumn leaves and freshly cut grass. But if it is not possible to immediately create the optimal combination of materials, then you should not worry about it. As composting progresses, you can adjust the mixture by adding the necessary materials.

Base layer. Start with brown materials. Place a 10-15 cm layer of large brown materials (for example, branches) at the bottom of the pile for ventilation.

Alternation of green and brown materials. The thickness of the layers of nitrogen (green) materials and carbon (brown) materials should be 10-15 cm. Composting will become more active after mixing them.

Size matters. Most materials will degrade faster if they are broken or cut into small pieces.

Moistening the compost. The compost pile should feel like a wrung out sponge. Squeeze a handful of compost; If droplets of water appear between your fingers, then there is enough water in it. The heap receives rainwater, as well as moisture from greenery (freshly cut grass contains almost 80% moisture). If the pile becomes too wet to dry, you can stir it more often and/or add drier brown materials to it.

Mixing the compost

Once the compost heap is collected, compost-forming organisms—bacteria, fungi, and insects—get to work. At the same time, you may notice that the temperature of the compost rises and steam may emanate from it.

To exist and reproduce in compost, living organisms that process organic matter need water and air. Water allows microorganisms to develop and move throughout the compost. Mixing the compost with a shovel or pitchfork will allow air to enter. About a week after filling the materials, the compost can be mixed. When mixing, you need to break up any lumps and moisten the pile as needed.

Stir and moisten the compost heap until the compost is ready. The composting process can be quite fast during the summer months. The compost may stop heating after a few weeks. If the compost in the pile is dark and crumbly, has a fresh earthy smell, and no longer resembles the original materials, it is probably ready.

Using ready-made compost

Compost is not a fertilizer, but it does contain nutrients that promote plant growth. Using compost reduces the need for watering and artificial fertilizers.

Adding compost to the soil.IN sandy soils compost acts like a sponge, retaining water and nutrients for plant roots. In clay soils, compost makes the soil more porous by creating tiny holes and passages that improve the permeability of moisture in the soil.

To level the surface and improve the landscape.

Can be used as foliar plant food or mulch. Mulch covers the soil around plants, protecting it from erosion, drying and sun.

Can be added to potting mix for indoor plants.

Composting problems and their solutions

Home composting is not a very complicated process, but usually some problems are encountered in the process of making compost.

The pile doesn't heat up

Size matters. The compost heap should be at least 2 meters wide and 1.2-1.5 meters high, with such dimensions the heap retains heat and moisture.

Moisture. Do a compression test: take a handful of material and squeeze it. If no droplets of moisture appear between your fingers, then the pile is too dry. Stir the pile and add water.

Nitrogen. If the pile is new, it may be missing green materials. Try adding grass clippings or fruit and vegetable scraps. As a last resort, use some nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

Ventilation. The compost heap must “breathe”. Use rough materials such as wood chips to create air spaces in the pile and add carbon to the mix.
Maybe the compost is ready. If the compost has been mixed several times and has been standing for a long time, then it is probably ready. Sift the compost through a sieve and use.

There is a smell

Rotten egg smell. The pile does not have enough airflow because it is too wet. Stir the pile with a shovel or pitchfork to introduce air. To increase air flow, you can add wood chips or some other filler.

Smell of ammonia. This indicates too much green material. Add more carbonaceous materials - dry leaves or straw. Mix the pile thoroughly and test for moisture content.

The pile attracts carrion-eating animals and insect pests

Low-fat diet. Do not add food scraps with oils, meats or dairy products; their odors may attract animals such as raccoons or mice.

Cover the compost. Cover new food scraps with carbonaceous materials and place them in the middle of the pile. A closed box won't let you in big pests. Insects are an element of the composting system, with the composting process creating enough heat inside to kill their eggs and reduce the number of unwanted insects.

Compost is a universal fertilizer that gives plants everything they need for full growth and development. Fertilizing has only one drawback - the long ripening process. This problem can be solved by using a compost accelerator.

The considered feeding has the following variations:

• Peat manure mixture is a combination of manure and peat in equal parts.
• Slurry is liquid mullein with sawdust or peat. The proportion is 50:50. This fertilizer ripens within a month.
• Fecal-peat - a combination of peat and toilet waste in equal parts.
• Mixture universal composition– fallen leaves, tree shoots, non-aggressive weeds. Ripening period is about 12 months. For better effect the pile is shifted from place to place several times.
• Manure-soil mixture - earth and manure in a percentage ratio of 40/60. Most of this proportion is occupied by manure. Layout is carried out in the spring and is ready for use on the site in the fall.

Pig waste contains a lot of nitrogen. This is not the best fertilizer option for the soil.

How to make compost?

Laying a compost pit begins with making a box. You can buy a plastic one, make a wooden one yourself, or dig a regular hole. In the latter case, the place will be equipped wooden joists. The material is placed in layers. You can also place them in any order. The main thing is to ensure oxygen access from the top and sides of the compost heap.

It is possible to place the “compost” on the surface of the earth. A recess is first dug for the bayonet of the shovel. Branches of bushes or trees are laid at the bottom. Next comes the compostable material. The pile is surrounded with boards or netting to give it shape. The top of the structure is covered with earth.

The formation of a compost pit occurs as follows:

1. Hard raw materials are crushed into smaller parts. The soft is mixed with the hard to achieve the necessary looseness.
2. The thickness of each layer varies within 15 cm. Thicker rows will make it difficult for air to penetrate inside.
3. Very dry raw materials are first wetted with water.
4. 700 grams of lime are poured onto the top of the next layer. It would not be superfluous to add 300 g of ammonium sulfate and 150 g of superphosphate to each row. The first component can be replaced with bird droppings at the rate of 4.5 kg of the latter instead of 450 g of sulfate. Wood ash replaces lime. Urea will add value to the final rotting result.
5. The normal size of a compost heap is approximately 1.5 m2. With such proportions, the optimal ratio of temperature and humidity inside is maintained.
6. When the heap reaches a height of 1.5 m, it is covered with earth to a level of approximately 5 cm.
7. The laid layers are covered with film or other waterproof material.

It is necessary to ensure that the compost heap is moderately moist.

How to choose a place for a “compost”?

A shady area that does not receive direct sunlight is an ideal location for the compost bin. In such conditions, the required humidity is easily maintained. Moisture contributes to a large accumulation of worms and woodlice: the presence beneficial insects ensures a uniform decomposition process.

It is better if there is not one, but two or three heaps on the site. You should not arrange a place near trees: powerful roots will pull everything out useful material from future fertilizer.

Composition of the compost pit

The basis of any “compost” is mowed grass, leaves without signs of diseases or the presence of pests. Rotting food waste, paper without paint, leftover tea and coffee, egg shells, vegetable and fruit peels, and seed husks are suitable. The more diverse the composition, the more useful elements the future fertilizer will contain.

You need to be very careful when choosing individual species herbs. Aggressive perennial weeds can germinate and colonize inside the compost heap. They should be folded separately and covered tightly with film. In a separate pile, the chances of germination of such weeds are significantly lower.

It is not advisable to send meat, animal fat, potato peelings, or plants with pests or diseases for processing. It is unacceptable to introduce materials that cannot rot.

Do not pile up citrus peels or leftovers. coniferous trees and animal bones: such waste rots for a very long time and disrupts the conditions for normal compost maturation.

Maintaining a moisture balance is a guarantee of rapid and high-quality decomposition. If there is an excess of moisture, stir the contents; if there is a lack, water it. Turning is also necessary for oxygen to enter the heap.

How to speed up compost maturation?

In the natural environment, the ripening of the organic fertilizer in question occurs very slowly. You can reduce the composting time of the mass by using manure: it is a rich source of nitrogen, and this necessary condition high rate of decay.

Regular yeast is also used. Dilute 1 tbsp per liter of water. sugar and add 1 tbsp. l. dry yeast. The resulting solution is poured into small depressions in the compost heap.

A quick process is facilitated by constant stirring of the contents with a pitchfork and timely moistening. The speed of humus production is affected by the size of the “compost”: the smaller it is, the faster the ripening.

The main stages of rotting of a compost pit

Stages of obtaining organic fertilizer:

1. In the first 7-10 days, decomposition and fermentation of the material begins. The temperature inside the heap reaches 68 °C.
2. Over the next two weeks, heat levels drop significantly. Intensive gas formation occurs and fungi multiply.
3. After the previous 14 days the temperature is around 20°C. Begins active work earthworms. Their vital activity completely completes the process of organic matter formation. Humus forms inside the compost bin.
4. Reaching the temperature of the compost mass to the appropriate environmental values ​​means the completion of decomposition. The composition is ready for use.

Application of biodestructors

Biodestructor is a new generation microbiological agent for compost. The drug is saturated with living microorganisms necessary for rapid decomposition.

They are able to multiply quickly inside a compost heap. During their life, microbes release substances that accelerate the process of decay. The resulting compost is well absorbed by any plants. The product is based on inorganic additives, vitamins and various amino acids.

The benefits of using biodestructors are more than obvious:

• Waste is disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner.
• Compost bacteria are aggressive and kill all other harmful organisms.
• The process of humus formation occurs much faster than in the natural environment.
• When using a biodestructor, the disposed waste does not emit an unpleasant odor.

The resulting organic fertilizer has high fertility. The soil fertilized with it increases its nutritional value several times, and the yield increases by 10-20%. This allows you to significantly save on the purchase of inorganic fertilizers.

Preparations for accelerating compost maturation

Often environmental conditions greatly slow down the time it takes to produce compost. EM drugs are used to speed things up. The abbreviation stands for “effective microorganisms.” Such biological products contain bacteria, in the presence of which the composition decomposes faster. EM concentrates have different names. There are many of them on the market:

• Tamir - reduces the compost readiness period to 2 - 3 weeks. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:100. Every 20 cm of compost heap is processed. 5 liters of solution are required per 1 m3. With “Tamir” you don’t have to make one big pile: you can make two small ones, which is much more convenient if you don’t have much space in your dacha. With the use of the drug, the final material is especially nutritious.
• BIOTEL-compost is a safe, effective product. A package weighing 150 grams processes 3 m³ of waste. The product processes plant and food waste equally well. Add 2.5 g of product to 10 liters of water. The resulting liquid is poured into a pile, then the mass is gently mixed with a pitchfork.
• Baikal EM – contains stamps of beneficial microorganisms for compost, has wide application. Used for the production of humus, pre-sowing treatment of seeds and soil. Diluted in different proportions depending on the task.

How do you know when the compost is ripe?

As it rots, the composition and appearance of the “compost” changes. The decomposed mass becomes loose and friable. The color changes to black and the smell becomes earthy. There are still small undecayed inclusions in it, but there are very few of them.

The main problems that arise during the compost maturation process.

The biological process does not always go smoothly. The following difficulties may arise:

1. There are ants inside the compost heap. This is a sure sign of lack of moisture - you should water the mass.
2. The compost heap smells unpleasant. The phenomenon occurs due to the fact that a significant amount of soft elements is embedded. It is necessary to turn over the compost pile and add straw, paper or dry leaves.
3. There are too many midges hovering over the compost heap. The problem arises due to excess moisture - the mass must be dried. To do this, it is left open for several days.
4. There are no processes observed inside the compost bin. In this case, there is not enough moisture or moist elements. The pile should be shed or green grass should be added.

Compost is a valuable organic fertilizer. In order for it to rot correctly and bring maximum benefits, you need to know the features of its preparation and feeding.

Chapter 2. Compost

Composting has been known for a long time and has been used by gardeners since time immemorial. However, with the spread in the 19th century. artificial mineral fertilizers compost was undeservedly forgotten. Recently, there has been a kind of revival of organic farming, taking into account all the achievements modern science and technology. Particular attention is paid to the condition of the soil. Experienced farmers know that if the soil is healthy and well fertilized, the yield will increase year after year.

The task of organic farming, in contrast to farming that widely uses modern achievements technology and chemical experiments, striving to obtain the largest possible number of products with minimum costs labor consists in obtaining nutritious food products. An important role in this is played by the use of compost.

The chemical and microbiological processes that occur during composting have long been thoroughly studied, but the intuitive approach used by ancient farmers is still relevant. However, the composting process is based on tried-and-tested general principles, which will be discussed below.

The concept of “compost” comes from the Latin word “compositus” - “orderly composed” and means an organic fertilizer from a mixture of a wide variety of substances of plant, animal and mineral origin, obtained as a result of decomposition under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. The use of compost is the return of organic substances to nature, which contributes to their continuous circulation.

It is well known that plants receive nutrition from soil moisture, and yields are higher on those soils that do not release moisture too quickly. The use of compost in agriculture and gardening to increase yield is justified by its ability to retain moisture in the soil and prevent it from drying out quickly.

Externally, compost is a moist, dark brown crumbly material that resembles rotted manure in both appearance and composition, and is a valuable source of organic and plant nutrients (Fig. 39).

Rice. 39. Compost.

In terms of its agrochemical properties, compost is not only not inferior to traditional organic fertilizers, peat and manure, but also surpasses them in the content of microelements.

Manure is the main organic fertilizer, but most farmers prefer not to use fresh manure to feed plants. The effect of manure on crops, due to its saturation with nitrogen compounds, is similar to the effect of many soluble mineral fertilizers. This is manifested in the increased growth of leaves and stems of plants fertilized with fresh manure, which does not always mean an increase in productivity; on the contrary, such plants lose immunity to diseases and pests.

Application of manure increases the ammonia content in the soil, which can cause burns to plant roots.

For example, no tuber crops or root crops should be planted in soil fertilized with fresh manure. In addition, manure decomposes quickly and does not contribute to increasing soil fertility. The nutrient content of manure is low and amounts to 0.5% nitrogen, 0.25% phosphoric acid, 0.6% potassium, 0.32% calcium. Manure enriches the soil mainly with humus, or humus. It is usually recommended to compost manure and only then use it.

Poultry manure is also a good organic fertilizer, but due to its strong concentration it can have Negative influence on soil and plants. It is not recommended to apply it directly to the soil, but by adding its solution to compost, you can obtain a fertilizer that is very valuable in its nutritional properties.

In addition to manure and bird droppings, compost may contain peat, sediments Wastewater, household and industrial waste containing organic substances, as well as mineral components. Often compost is the main fertilizer in a summer cottage.

Very cheap and accessible materials containing organic substances are used to prepare compost: waste of plant and animal origin from the kitchen, weeds, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit peelings, wilted flowers, tops of tuberous plants and root crops, household and city garbage, spoiled feed, pine needles , peat, pond sludge, ash, paper, feces, etc. All organic materials that can decompose are suitable here. It is important to combine quickly decomposing and long-decomposing components.

In rural areas, hoof trimmings, horns and other horny waste from domestic animals are added to the compost. Such waste is rich in significant nitrogen content. Before adding to compost, they must first be soaked in water and left to ferment in the sun for 3-5 weeks. It is recommended to water the compost heap with the resulting liquid to prevent it from drying out. You can add them directly to compost, but keep in mind that they take a long time to rot.

It is good to add sawdust to compost, despite the fact that it contains few nutrients and is difficult to decompose. Their value lies in the fact that they help maintain looseness, and also absorb and retain the required amount of moisture. To speed up the decomposition of sawdust and other substances containing a lot of fiber and little nitrogen, such as straw, shavings, pine needles, it is recommended to add nitrogen-rich waste - slurry, chicken droppings, etc. - to compost heaps.

It is also undesirable to use potato tops infected with late blight, vegetable remains infected with fungal diseases, such as sauerkraut, and false cabbage to form a compost heap. powdery mildew, since the spores of the causative agents of these diseases do not rot in compost and retain their vital activity. It is better to burn such residues and add them to compost in the form of ash. If it is not possible to burn such remains, it is recommended to bury them to great depths to prevent them from appearing on the surface.

On the other hand, pathogens of viral and bacterial diseases often die in compost, so the remains of such infected plants can sometimes be added to the compost. Infested weed plants are usually composted in a separate pile, shifting it at least 4 times during the summer. In this case, germinating weed seeds, falling into the inner layers, will die. Weeds growing on the heap should be cut off with a hoe. Once the weeds have stopped sprouting, the compost can be used.

One of the components necessary for obtaining organic fertilizer is soil, especially rich in organic substances and nitrogen, for example, swampy, peat, moss, etc. Clay or loamy soil is an excellent starting material for obtaining humus and organomineral complexes.

To accelerate ripening and improve the nutritional composition, a small amount of lime and inorganic (mineral) fertilizers are also added to the compost.

Lime accelerates the process of rotting and decomposition of organic substances included in the compost, as well as reducing the acidity in the compost heap, which, however, can cause nitrogen loss, so compost containing calcareous materials must be carefully covered with soil.

Instead of lime, wood or peat ash can be used to neutralize acids that delay compost maturation. Wood ash can be added to compost with a small admixture of brown coal ash. Many free acids are formed during the decomposition of sawdust, shavings, pine needles, and tree leaves.

The transformation of substances into compost occurs under the influence of microorganisms that multiply in large numbers. The processes occurring in the compost heap are similar to the processes occurring in the soil, but are more active.

Compost is used in agriculture as an organic fertilizer for row crops (vegetables, fodder root crops, potatoes, corn, sunflowers, etc.), winter grains and in gardening. In addition, it is used to restore cultivated hay meadows and pastures, as well as for the reclamation of disturbed lands, restoration of fertility and primary cultivation of reclaimed lands. The role of compost as biofuel in greenhouses is great. Compost is also used as an insulating soil for landfill remediation.

Compost is not only a source of humus, but also a carrier of life: earthworms live in it, and a variety of microflora develop.

The special value of compost is that it contains substances in the most favorable form for plant nutrition. Any dose of compost can be optimal; there is no such thing as too much.

Compost, prepared according to all the rules, taking into account all the wishes and recommendations, which will be discussed further, is a universal fertilizer containing all the necessary substances for any agricultural or garden crop.

The water-retaining property of compost helps to increase yields and improve soil fertility, since soils that can retain moisture tend to yield higher yields.

Good physical and mechanical properties compost properties are manifested in its flowability, transportability, and non-stickness to parts of agricultural machines and implements.

The most active composting process occurs at positive ambient temperatures, optimal humidity conditions and high degree interactions with air, especially at the initial stage. In winter, when the compost mass freezes, the activity of microorganisms practically stops. After thawing in the spring, the compost mixtures are stirred, which promotes the biothermal process.

The ratio of nitrogen and carbon affects the intensity of composting. Excessive carbon content slows down the decomposition of organic matter, and excess nitrogen contributes to the loss of ammonia compounds of this element. It is possible to accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter and reduce the loss of ammonia nitrogen by adding phosphate rock, phosphogypsum, potassium salt, and lime materials to the compost. For these purposes, bacterial fertilizers are also added: azotobacterin and phosphorobacterin.

At ambient temperatures above zero, the composting process lasts from 1 to 4 months. Municipal and household waste can take 15 to 18 months to rot.

There are many composting methods, varying in the composition of organic material and preparation time. Most often used cold method composting, but the quality of the resulting compost is practically no different from that prepared by the hot method. Properly prepared compost contains all the substances necessary for plants and therefore is a universal fertilizer for all crops.

Compost ready for application to the soil has a fine-lumpy structure, does not have an unpleasant odor and has a significantly smaller volume compared to the original materials.

Compost should be applied to all types of soil in fallow, under fall plowing and spring plowing, in holes for feeding seedlings and in holes when planting trees and shrubs.

Preparing high-quality compost, which helps increase productivity several times, requires a serious approach to following all recommendations and a lot of patience. Forming a compost heap (Fig. 40) has a number of advantages over directly burying waste in the soil. In rainy weather, the pit may be flooded and nutrients may be washed out. If the pit is flooded with water and there is no air supply, microorganisms that promote rotting do not multiply, but, on the contrary, microbes become active, leading to fermentation and fermentation of compost, which becomes useless and even harmful to plants. In addition, loosening and removing finished compost from a heap is easier than from a pit.

Rice. 40. Compost heaps on a personal plot.

Before starting a compost heap, you need to make sure that there is no shortage of raw materials. For faster decomposition, the components should be pre-crushed.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to mix “brown” materials, that is, dry, woody (sawdust, small twigs, dry pine needles, fallen leaves, etc.), with “green” - wet, vegetable (tea bags, citrus peels, coffee grounds, grass and weeds, fruit and vegetable scraps, etc.).

It is necessary to arrange the compost heap in such a way that it is easy to maintain water and air balance. To do this, from time to time you should evenly mix the components of the fertilizer; it is enough to shovel the pile 1-2 times during the summer, that is, throw the composted mass with a shovel from one place to another - side by side. In hot and dry weather, compost heaps need to be watered from time to time.

The first step in starting a compost heap is choosing its location. It should not be a disorderly pile of garden rubbish and waste in the farthest corner of the site. The compost area is best located in a dry, well-ventilated place.

It is important that the water source is easily accessible. It is not recommended to leave the compost heap in direct sunlight. Often planted nearby hedge to create shadow. Elderberry is well suited for this, as it promotes significant absorption and evaporation of water and humus forms around the roots. Sunflowers or pumpkins are also used to shade the soil (Fig. 41).

Rice. 41. Correct location plants near the compost heap.

Sunflowers provide good shade if the compost heap is thickly planted with them in a circle. It is not recommended to plant plants on the heap itself. Pumpkin, for example, can consume large amounts of nutrients, drawing them from the compost and thereby depleting it. Therefore, pumpkin crops should be planted not on the compost heap itself, but around it, and then lay the growing vines across the heap so that a shadow is formed from the wide leaves. If new roots appear on the vines, they must be trimmed in a timely manner.

Rice. 42. Compost heap surrounded by a small earthen rampart.

It is recommended to build a box for the compost heap square shape, the back and side walls of which can be made of brick, concrete, iron, slate or boards, but do not interfere excess water flow out from below. The front wall may be missing, or it is usually made removable or collapsible to make loading and unloading compost easier. Typically, the side walls taper toward the top, and the cross section of the pile is trapezoidal.

To protect from rain, it is necessary to place some kind of cover on top that directs the flow of water beyond the walls of the pile. Otherwise, nutrient leaching may occur. Typically, a sheet of plastic, slate or roofing felt is used for such purposes. This will also prevent excessive evaporation of moisture.

On the farm, if space and amount of waste allow, you can place not 1, but 3 heaps. One of them may be ready for use, the second is ripening, and the third is in the laying stage. This will allow compost to be produced continuously.

If there is no need to use ready-made compost, you need to properly cover the pile and leave it to wait its time.

The nutritional properties of compost are preserved for a long time. After adding compost to the soil, decomposition processes can continue, which has a beneficial effect on the soil.

Sometimes it is not possible to create a compost heap of optimal size due to insufficient waste or the small size of the site. Then, to prepare the fertilizer, baskets or other portable containers are used, which also protect the compost from rodents in the initial stage of preparation.

It is best to start laying a pile after rain, when both the soil and other components of the compost are well saturated with rainwater.

The first layer of the compost heap is a 7-8 cm layer of soil or peat. After this, apply a layer of quickly decomposing material: leaves, grass or straw up to 15 cm thick, which will separate the compost from the soil so that it can be easily removed or mixed. It is recommended to trample the layer with your feet and moisten it well, then evenly distribute manure, ash or garbage in a 30 cm layer and cover it with a thick layer of loose, stone-free soil. Next, the layers are repeated in the same order until the height of the pile reaches 1.2–1.5 m.

The number of layers may vary depending on the height of the pile. It is not recommended to make thick layers of freshly cut grass or green leaves, as this will make it difficult for the air and moisture necessary for the life of microorganisms to penetrate into deeper layers. Over the summer, the pile can settle by about 1/3.

You can sprinkle each layer with minerals: lime, superphosphate or phosphorite, ammonium sulfate, etc. Instead of lime, you can use wood ash - this will reduce the acid content in the heap and enrich it with potassium. Ammonium sulfate can successfully replace bird droppings.

To enrich compost with mineral elements, it is not necessary to buy ready-made fertilizers. Many plants have the ability to accumulate certain elements. Comfrey, tobacco leaves and stems, and common straw are rich in potassium. Buckwheat and melon leaves contain calcium. Nettle contains a lot of iron, and mustard and rapeseed leaves can accumulate phosphorus.

Minerals have a huge impact on the growth and development of crops. Potassium helps increase plant resistance to diseases, as well as increasing their resistance to temperature changes. Its effect on the root system is also beneficial.

Calcium is used to neutralize the soil, regulate its acid-base balance and water consumption by the plant.

Phosphorus affects the formation of buds in plants. Its deficiency is usually indicated by the pale color of leaves and flowers. Magnesium is also a necessary element for plant ripening, which is responsible for the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves of the plant.

With a lack of sodium in plant nutrition, the leaves become brittle, dull, lose their elasticity, and appear on them. brown spots. A lack of iron or manganese causes chlorosis, a disease of leaves that causes them to turn yellow or white.

By fertilizing the soil with compost, you can significantly increase the level of these elements in the soil, which will have a beneficial effect on productivity. Ready compost contains, as a rule, 1–1.2% calcium, 2% magnesium, 0.3–0.8% potassium, 0.1–0.8% phosphorus, etc.

Many farmers add stinging nettle to their compost, which increases plant resistance to diseases, dandelion, which promotes the formation of neutral humus in the soil, as well as chamomile, valerian, yarrow and other herbs that have a beneficial effect on the soil.

The more diverse the organic materials laid in layers, the better and faster the decomposition process in the compost heap. It is recommended to combine carbon-rich plant residues with nitrogen-rich substances, such as manure. A pile made of only organic material may not begin the composting process at all.

The optimal quantitative ratio of components contributes to the correct and rapid process of compost fermentation. The traditional composting method requires the following proportion: 1 part nitrogen to 30 parts carbon.

If more nitrogen is taken than necessary, the composting process will begin more actively, but the release of large amounts of ammonia can destroy microorganisms involved in the decomposition of substances. Chicken manure, which releases large amounts of nitrogen, significantly weighs down the compost, which becomes sticky and poorly ventilated. Ammonia nitrogen or free ammonia may form, which is harmful to both plants and soil.

A lack of nitrogen, which manifests itself in insufficient activity of decomposition processes, has much smaller consequences for the quality of compost. However, in the hot composting process, a 30:1 ratio is ineffective.

The top layer is laid to retain moisture. The thickness of the layer is, as a rule, no more than 5 cm. Some farmers use a 15-centimeter layer of dry grass for the same purpose.

The finished pile should consist of 70% plant debris, 20% manure, 10% soil and be evenly moistened, resembling a wrung-out sponge: damp to the touch, but when wrung out, no water drips.

The compost heap should not be too loose, otherwise there is a danger of it drying out quickly, losing heat and ammonia vapor. It is also not recommended to make very dense layers, which will limit the flow of air and moisture.

To improve air flow and speed up the decomposition process in large heaps, holes are made to the bottom using a crowbar or thick branches, which are inserted at a certain distance from each other during the process of laying the heap, and then removed.

In the finished compost heap, an intensive decomposition process occurs, at the initial stage accompanied by a strong increase in temperature - up to 50–60 ° C. Then the temperature gradually decreases, although it remains higher than in the environment.

The composting process is much slower in heaps big size, there is no increase in temperature, but this does not affect the quality of the compost. But excessive heating of the heap should not be allowed. To control this process, you can stick a stick in and, periodically taking it out and feeling it, check the temperature in the heap. You can combat extreme heat by turning the pile over. The more often it is mixed, the sooner the compost will mature, while the outer, less decomposed substances will be at the center of rotting.

It is usually necessary to turn the pile for the first time a few weeks after it has cooled. To do this, the area next to it is cleared and, using a fork or shovel, the entire mass is transferred to a new place (Fig. 43). The new pile should be left for a month, covered again with a layer of earth or grass.

Rice. 43. Next to the pile, you need to leave a free space in advance, where the ripening compost is thrown during shoveling.

Liquid and gaseous decomposition products and some water-soluble salts formed during the decay of organic matter tend to be washed out of the compost. To prevent this process, soil or peat placed in the compost is used.

The next step is to control the drying of the pile. It is recommended to keep the compost moist, adding water as needed. If it dries too quickly, water must be added more often. The optimal moisture content of the compost mass should be at least 68–75%. In rainy or cold summers there is a risk of the compost becoming over-watered, which can negatively affect its quality.

Moistening the compost heap is one of the most critical moments in compost preparation. The quality of compost directly depends on the ratio of water and air involved in composting.

You can determine whether the pile needs to be watered while mixing the compost masses (Fig. 44). Focus on surface layer should not be done, since in the summer it usually dries out very much. It is not recommended to limit yourself to just surface watering of the heap, since the entire mass of compost needs to be moistened; for this, watering should be combined with mixing the heap.

Rice. 44. Layers of a ripening heap: 1 – mature compost; 2 – ripening; 3 – covering.

After a month, it is recommended to turn the pile over again, returning it to former place. In the subsequent months of fertilizer maturation, it is recommended to periodically stir the compost heap, once every 3 weeks, adding soil, water and new organic materials to it. For a small, well-made pile containing easily decomposed materials, mixing no more than once every 6 weeks is sufficient.

The processes occurring in the compost heap during the fermentation of organic substances are caused by the activity of microorganisms. initial stage The maturation of compost mass is associated with the work of microbes that live at normal temperatures. Once the pile is formed and moistened, these organisms begin to feed and reproduce intensively, which causes the release of thermal energy and an increase in the temperature of the compost. Excessive aeration of the pile causes the loss of this energy and slows down the composting process. Correct formation heap eliminates this problem, but access to oxygen is still necessary, otherwise fermentation of the compost may occur. With a high density of compost layers in the heap, the mass is periodically mixed for better oxygen supply.

Earthworms take part in the composting process, stimulating the activity of mesophiles and fungi. In the active phase of composting, thermophilic bacteria play an important role. An important role in composting is played by the activity of the microflora of earthworm waste products, as well as the emergence of certain microbial communities in it. In addition, earthworms, feeding on compost and humus, permeate the soil with countless passages, providing unimpeded access of oxygen to the roots of plants.

Microbial communities are known to be able to degrade 92 different carbon compounds. Many types of microbes can process only some of these compounds, such as simple sugar. More complex complex compounds can only decompose some of them.

Earthworms are able to pass soil and remaining organic matter through their intestines, thereby creating a very valuable substance - vermicompost. In terms of nutritional qualities and biological activity, it is much more valuable than compost prepared without the participation of worms. The concentration of nutrients in vermicompost is much higher than in regular compost. It is important to remember that earthworms are afraid of dryness, soil acidity, excess salts and lack of organic matter, so to obtain better compost, these phenomena should be avoided. Then the worms will reproduce on their own.

In summer, the composting process proceeds quickly: 2–3 months after laying, the compost is ready. In colder weather this takes 4–5 months. In winter, microorganisms practically do not multiply, and the ripening period of the fertilizer increases significantly.

During the composting process, some difficulties may arise that need to be dealt with promptly. The most common problem that arises is when the composting process does not occur.

This is due to a lack of water - in this case, the pile should be moistened and, if possible, new waste should be added.

The process can also be slowed down if there is excess moisture, then it is recommended to add dry grass, sawdust and other moisture-absorbing materials.

If your compost pile smells rotten and attracts insects, there may be excess food waste. It is recommended to add more green materials, soil, sawdust, and also cover the pile with film or mulching materials. Another reason for this phenomenon may be a slowdown in the composting process due to an excess of difficult-to-decompose components that need to be removed from the heap.

During the initial stages of composting, rodents may take up residence in the piles or bins. To avoid this, use baskets with smaller holes and place food waste deeper, covering it with soil and green materials.

Ready-to-use compost is a loose, free-flowing mass of dark brown color with a pleasant earthy smell. Moreover, all materials used in its preparation, as a rule, completely decompose.

The role of temperature at the initial stage of composting is very large. The heap that has begun to ripen consists of 4 temperature zones (Fig. 45).

Rice. 45. Temperature zones: 1 – first; 2 – second; 3 – third; 4 – fourth.

The surface of the heap constitutes the first temperature zone, the thickness of which depends on the packing density and moisture content of the compost. Its temperature differs little from the ambient temperature and is usually less than 30 °C. Composting processes in this zone are weak.

In the second zone, the temperature ranges from 30 to 50 °C; composting here occurs more intensively than in the first zone, but also not enough to produce high-quality compost. The second zone is important because ammonia, which is undesirable for plants and soil, is absorbed and released here. The thickness of this zone can be several centimeters or occupy the entire volume of the compost heap, which negatively affects the quality of the compost.

The third zone is characterized by temperatures of 50–75 °C. This is where the composting process occurs most actively. An important role is played by the vital activity of microorganisms that contribute to the intensive decomposition of organic matter.

In the fourth zone the temperature exceeds 75 °C. Since most microorganisms die at this temperature, mainly chemical reactions without the participation of microbes, which results in the formation of a humus, nitrogen-enriched complex of nutrients necessary for fertilizing the soil. The quality of the fertilizer depends on the presence or absence of the fourth zone in the compost heap.

When shoveling the compost mass, the temperature zones are mixed, so the layer of compost from the first zone falls into the fourth and vice versa, which contributes to an intensive decomposition process.

Compost can be ready within 1 month. For this purpose, the hot composting technique is used. Optimal size The heap in this process should be approximately 1 m3. It is recommended to make the walls with slots for air; it is best if there is a mesh as the walls (Fig. 46). As with cold composting, there should be free space nearby to transfer the compost.

Rice. 46. ​​For intensive ventilation of the pile during hot composting, it is recommended to make walls with slots.

This process is called hot because of the high temperatures that accompany the rotting and decomposition of organic matter. Components containing nitrogen contribute to an increase in the temperature in the heap: grain, seeds, bread and flour products, food waste, rotting fruits and vegetables, as well as manure and feces, the rotting of which causes the heap to quickly heat up. Due to the low air content in these products, it is necessary to sandwich them with carbon-containing substances: straw, leaves, grass, sawdust, shredded cardboard, paper, which themselves hardly heat up, and when rotting consume nitrogen. For hot composting, both substances are taken in a 1:1 ratio.

All materials for hot composting must be well ground. It is also recommended to add ready-made compost to the mass and moisten the pile as needed.

After 4–6 days, and if the pile is covered with film, then after 3–4 days, the temperature in the center will exceed 70 °C. At this time, it is necessary to transfer the compost to a free place, otherwise the microbes may die. In total, during this period of compost maturation it is necessary to turn the pile 4 times.

Using the hot composting method, you can get 3 portions of finished compost during the summer.

There are other methods for making compost quickly. For example, you can compost leaves fruit plants: apple trees, pears, cherries, currants - they rot quickly.

The waste collected in a heap is watered with a 0.5% urea solution and potato decoction, which is prepared in the following way: 1 kg of chopped potatoes is boiled in 3 liters of water and then poured in 10 liters cold water. For 10 kg of leaves, 5 liters of decoction is enough. The decoction contains nutrients necessary for the life of microorganisms. After 3 shovelings over the course of a month, the compost is ready.

To quickly fertilize the land, many farmers dig a trench in the spring, fill it with organic waste (fallen leaves, food waste, manure, feces) and cover it with a 15–20 cm layer of turf. This creates a kind of steam bed on which early greens can be grown.

Lazy compost can be made from garden waste without forming a pile, but using a basket or bin. Waste is stacked in layers as in conventional composting. If necessary, add water to prevent drying out.

To prepare the so-called active compost, a pile is formed; you can also use baskets or log houses (Fig. 47).

Rice. 47. Log house for compost formation.

The essence of “mixed” compost is to stir it regularly. All components intended to make a compost pile should be well shredded, with garden waste piled up around the edges of the pile or bin and food scraps placed in the center.

Industrial production of compost includes a phase called pasteurization. It is necessary to bring the compost of the first phase to full readiness and suitability for use as fertilizer for many mushrooms, such as champignons.

During the pasteurization process, compost gets rid of many microorganisms that are harmless to crops, but dangerous to capricious fungi.

For pasteurization, special tunnels (chambers) are built. In such conditions it is easier to create and maintain the required temperature and gas exchange. All this is necessary to destroy harmful microorganisms.

The pasteurization process consists of several stages. First you need to equalize the temperature throughout the compost mass using air supply. The higher the temperature of the compost, the more intense the fresh air must be supplied. Typically, to maintain optimal air temperature, fans are used to regulate the air flow rate.

A decrease in ammonia concentration occurs during the second stage of pasteurization during primary conditioning.

The duration of the primary posterization process is up to 30 hours at a temperature of about 50 °C. The concentration of ammonia in the compost decreases to 0.15–0.2%.

The next stage of pasteurization is to increase the temperature to 60 °C. The temperature is increased gradually, at a rate of 1.5 °C/hour, so that the microorganisms adapt to the higher temperatures of the next stage of pasteurization. The temperature of the compost mass increases as a result of a decrease in the volume and speed of fresh air supply.

In addition, steam can be used for heating. The process usually lasts 6–8 hours.

The destruction of harmful microorganisms occurs at the stage of pasteurization itself, which lasts up to 12 hours. The maximum temperature does not exceed 62 °C. The volume and speed of fresh air intake is minimal. In this case, the compost mass contains a concentration of ammonia gas of up to 0.3%.

After this, it is necessary to begin the process of cooling the compost, otherwise a higher concentration of this substance when exposed to high temperatures can lead to the death of microorganisms useful for the formation of high-quality fertilizer.

To cool the compost mass to a temperature of 48–50 °C, the supply of fresh air is resumed. The cooling rate is higher than the heating rate and is 2 °C/hour. After reaching the specified temperature, secondary conditioning occurs, during which the ammonia concentration is reduced to 0.1%. This process takes 48–60 hours.

After the second phase of posterization, the resulting fertilizer has high qualities that have a beneficial effect on plant growth.

It is quite difficult to carry out the pasteurization process at home, since industrial composting uses modern technologies and sophisticated equipment.

Compost should be added to the soil in the fall during the autumn digging of the garden, placing it under a shovel. Depending on the needs of the crops, the amount of compost applied to the soil is approximately 5 to 8 quintals per 100 m2. It is important to take into account that cucumbers and cabbage, for example, consume more organic fertilizer than carrots, tomatoes, beets, onions, etc.

You can fill the furrows almost to the top, then this nutrition can be enough for the soil for 5–6 years. When planting individual plants, compost is spread directly into the holes.

For planting trees and shrubs, it is recommended to place about 3 buckets of compost in planting holes. To feed indoor plants, it is recommended to use an aqueous solution of compost.

Wet compost must be applied in a layer of 5 to 15 cm, dry compost - from 1.5 to 3 cm. When adding compost to depleted soil, the layer of wet compost should be 15-25 cm and updated annually.

Adding compost helps improve soil quality and reduce plant water needs, which is especially important in dry areas and during the hot season.

If the compost is not fully mature, the organic residues in it have not completely decomposed, the volume of nutrients in it is small and, as a rule, it is used not as a fertilizer, but as a mulching material.

Mulch is a layer of loose material, such as peat, sawdust or semi-ripe compost, spread on the surface of the soil. This substance helps retain moisture in the beds and protect the soil from the germination of weeds.

Separate waste collection has been practiced in our family for more than one generation: all organic materials that can rot and serve for the benefit of the garden are piled up separately and then transferred to the compost heap.

Free and highly nutritious fertilizer takes about 3 years to prepare, but there are ways to speed up this process, allowing you to reduce the ripening period to one year.

Proper compost, which will not harm plants and soil due to its high nitrogen content, is ready only 3 years after the final addition of a pile of organic matter. Experienced gardeners They organize boxes on their plots, divided into three sections, which alternately each season serve to accumulate “raw materials” for fertilizer.

Ready-made compost of the correct black color is stored in one compartment, fermentation processes take place in another, and fresh weeds and organic waste are placed in the third.

Fermentation processes of raw materials occur due to the activity of special microorganisms that decompose organic matter into simple elements. For high-quality work of these bacteria, three main conditions must be provided:

1. Moisture. Without moisture, no fermentation will occur, so the compost heap must be constantly watered.
2. Air. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria work on the decomposition of organic matter; the former do it faster. To speed up the ripening process of compost, it is necessary to regularly dig up the pile, providing beneficial microorganisms with the oxygen they need.
3. Warm. Fermentable raw materials must be kept warm. Previously, we covered the pile with thick black film, which retained moisture inside and, by absorbing the sun's rays, served as additional heating. Now at our dacha we have convenient boxes made from boards: the rotting masses themselves emit heat.

To really cook useful compost, it is not enough just to stack organic waste in layers - you need to create for microorganisms comfortable conditions and regularly check the condition of the future compost.

Particular attention is required to control the nitrogen content in rotting masses: its excess, expressed in an unpleasant odor, will signal the imminent death of bacteria due to oxygen deficiency. To eliminate the nitrogen surplus, you need to dig up the pile with a pitchfork and add a little straw to the mass.

"Manual" method

If you do not have the opportunity to wait 3 years for compost, the process of its maturation can be accelerated, but this will require constant intervention in the fermentation processes:

• try to grind all organic garden and household waste so that it rots faster;
• constantly water the compost heap, keeping it moist throughout the warm season;
• add fresh chopped weeds to the ripening compost as a “starter”;
• at least once a month, dig up the pile with a pitchfork or pierce it to the bottom with a stick, ensuring an influx of oxygen.

By taking part in the maturation of compost, you will thereby speed up the time it is ready: it will be possible to use it not in 3 years, but in 2. Using this technique will help you save time and free space on the site that you have allocated for the collection and fermentation of organic waste .

Drugs

To speed up the compost preparation process, gardeners have long practiced the use of microorganisms, watering the masses with diluted yeast and fermented milk drinks. But today there are a lot of ready-made products on the market that contain selected strains of bacteria that serve to break down organic matter into simple elements:

• lactic acid bacteria;
• yeast;
• actinomycetes;
• photosynthetic bacteria;
• fermenting mycobacteria.

Such a powerful complex of bacteria in favorable conditions begins to quickly multiply and process organic matter. The work of microorganisms helps eliminate pathogenic flora and helps break down raw materials into microelements useful for cultivated plants.

The drugs should be diluted according to the instructions in warm water and then left for 24 hours. Experienced gardeners recommend adding sugar or jam to the solution to feed beneficial bacteria. Then the diluted preparation should be poured onto the compost heap and subsequently maintain optimal moisture in the rotting mass.

The use of preparations with microorganisms allows you to reduce the compost preparation time to 3-4 months, that is, the organic matter that you collect during the summer will become a full-fledged fertilizer next year with the right approach.

Aerobic method

This method, based on the use of drugs, allows you to speed up the readiness of compost as much as possible:

1. In a shaded place on the site, assemble the box, leaving small gaps of 3-4 cm between the boards.
2. Place drainage at the bottom of the box: broken bricks, stones, wood chips or sunflower stems.
3. Add organic materials as you collect them. When the fresh layer reaches a thickness of 20 cm, pour it with the drug solution.
4. Cover the compost pile with dark plastic or wooden lid. As organic waste accumulates, the new layer should be well watered with a compost solution diluted according to the instructions and then maintained optimal humidity wt.

To ensure the flow of oxygen to aerobic bacteria, after each watering, it is recommended to pierce the rotting masses in several places to the very bottom. If fermentation is accompanied by an unpleasant odor, you need to dig up the pile with a pitchfork.

Anaerobic method

This method of preparing compost allows you to produce valuable fertilizer in 5 months. The principle of creation is the layer-by-layer laying out of organic waste and soil. Fermentation processes take place under anaerobic conditions - under a film or in a wooden box assembled without cracks.

The composting accelerator is applied once a month, and the rotting masses are constantly maintained in a moist state.

The aerobic method, although it takes longer (in conditions middle zone the ripening process will not take 5 months, but will affect half of next summer), and also produces silage-like masses, which are not entirely convenient to work with, but it allows you to obtain the most nutritious and beneficial fertilizer for plants, which the crops in your garden will undoubtedly enjoy.

You will learn more about methods for accelerating compost maturation in the following video:

Bottom line

The composting process can be significantly shortened if you follow certain rules working with organic matter:

• grind organic waste and weeds;
• ensure optimal moisture content of rotting masses;
• dig up the future compost every month or pierce the layered organic matter with a stick to ensure an influx of oxygen;
• keep the rotting compost warm by covering the wooden box with a lid or thick film;
• To accelerate the maturation of compost, use special preparations containing a complex of beneficial bacteria.

By following these recommendations, you can reduce the ripening time of compost to 2 years, and by using solutions saturated with microorganisms - to 3 months. This will allow you to save usable space on your site and use the prepared natural fertilizer already next year.