How to increase the door opening. How to expand a box using an additional strip

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Doorway design (1)

Doorway design options

IN standard apartments The thickness of the walls can be different, so some of them are main walls (about 20 cm), others are interior partitions (about 8 cm) and, finally, bathroom walls, which are even thinner (4-5 cm). At the same time, the bulk of doors on our market are sold complete with frames no more than 8-9 cm wide. What to do with wide frames has already been discussed above. Now let’s consider a situation where the thickness of the wall in the opening of which the door is installed is at least 1.5-2 times greater than the width.

door frame In such cases they do in the following way - the door block is combined with the wall surface that is considered the front. As a rule, this is a corridor where all the doors open. Then on this side of the door you can use the same trim as on the others. True, on the other hand, it will no longer be possible to nail down the same platband due to the insufficient width of this opening. IN best case scenario, from the inside the seam is closed with a narrow layout. (Fig. 5.1B.) This is the simplest, inexpensive, and therefore the most common solution, however, it is not the best, because firstly, the layout does not fit at all with the other trims
apartment doors , if you look from the back of the room into the corridor, this is immediately visible, secondly, the opening may not have the required rectangular shape, therefore, a door installed vertically will only emphasize its crookedness. And thirdly, the corners of this opening, finished in the same way as the walls of the room - paint or wallpaper, will be the most damaged places. It seems more rational to use
extensions (expansion strips) . With their help, you can somehow enlarge the door frame, i.e. make its width equal to the thickness of the wall. (See) Then from the side of the room you can use the same platbands as on the front side. However, this, and the inner surface of the slope was perpendicular to the outer one. As a rule, for this purpose the slopes are plastered (Fig. 5.1A.). In this case, there is always a risk of damage to the decorative coating of the frame of new doors. In addition, wood can absorb moisture contained in

plaster mixture , and then she will almost certainly be led away, and the door will stop closing altogether..
Wet processes can be avoided and the proposed options for expanding the door frame can be used. If the width of the opening exceeds the width of the door block by at least 5-10 cm, then you can use option 1
To implement it, you can use thick plywood or chipboard. A panel is cut out from a sheet of the selected material, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the wall. Even before installing the door, this piece is attached with screws to the underside of the studs and the top of the door frame. Next, the installation of the door with the door frame “extended along the wall” occurs in the usual manner. Of course, the setup is like this
wide box

becomes significantly more complicated, which means the cost of this operation also increases, almost doubling, but the result fully justifies the high price. After installing the box expanded in this way, an opening of the required rectangular shape is obtained. All that remains is to seal the gaps between the panels and the wall, and after finishing the painting work, you can nail and glue any decorative strips and nail the trim (Fig. 5.2.). If you use veneered material for the panels, covered with veneer of the same type as the door, you can do without “additional” strips.
The door frame can be fixed to the edge of the panel or in the middle. However, if it is necessary for the door to swing open completely, then the edge of the frame with hinges should be in the plane of the wall. This method allows you to design a doorway up to 25 cm deep. If the dimensions of the opening do not allow you to use the first option, then there is nothing to do; you will have to plaster the slopes of the opening, onto which the expansion strips are then attached, using glue or thin nails without heads. a block is nailed, which is then painted or tinted along with the box. The block can be nailed flush with the surface of the box (Fig. 5.4B) or with an indentation of about one centimeter (Fig. 5.4A).
It is nailed, as a rule, from the side opposite to the hinges. Although in some difficult cases it is necessary to “build up” the box on both sides - for example, if a wall or partition initially slopes in one direction, and from some point it changes to the opposite. This happens, as a rule, with partitions made of brick, gypsum blocks, or even in panel houses, for example, if the builders installed a broken panel. In such cases, it is necessary to “increase” the box not along its entire length, but only part of it, gradually reducing the thickness of the “additional” bar to “nothing”.

This is done as follows - the block is smeared with glue (PVA), then nailed or screwed to the box, and after the glue has set, the nails or screws are removed and it is cut “along the wall”. On the side of the hinges, the “additional” block will have to be attached with an indentation from the edge of the box. Then it will look like a continuation of the platband. However, in this case, the door can no longer be opened completely - 180 degrees.“Canadian doors”, once very popular in our country because of their low price, gave another idea for decorating a doorway ( option 3) (Fig. 5.5.). Before this, the usual box, which was a block and a quarter, was perceived by us as the only possible variant . The "Canadian" box consists of two parts: wide board
about 20 mm thick and a limit rail measuring 10x20-30mm. The board is sawn to the required size “along the wall”, and then the door is installed in the most universal way - using screws. Moreover, you don’t have to worry about the mounting holes being visible, because... limit rail nailed to last stage. The disadvantages of this option include the fact that the door opening into the room will be installed in the depth of the opening.

Only for walls 10-15 cm thick this option usually does not raise objections.
The doorway design options listed above mainly concern those doors whose frames do not have grooves for platbands or additional strips, as well as those blocks whose expansion strips do not have sufficient rigidity. Such frames are mainly equipped with Finnish, Spanish and some domestic doors. For Italian blocks and parts
domestic doors , which are equipped with a box with sufficiently deep grooves for the expansion strip, it is possible, using the adhesive properties of polyurethane foam, to do without plastering work that is dangerous for the door. After installing the door, the expansion strip is inserted into the groove of the frame and pulled out so that its outer edge coincides with the plane of the wall.
Then it is fixed with spacers and wedges in the desired position, and the distance between the wall and the plank is filled with foam. To prevent curvature of the additional strip, insert between the spacers and the expander

planed board

. It turns out to be a kind of conductor, to which the expanding foam presses the decorative strips. (Fig.5.6) However, despite the simplicity of this method, its implementation also requires a lot of time, most of which is spent on fixing the expander in the desired position. On which side of the door block should the extensions be installed? When installing doors, door block. However, in our apartments, interior doors, as a rule, open into the room. Installing extensions on the inside of the door block (the side with hinges) will significantly limit the opening angle of the door. Thus, a door with a wide extension, as a rule, swings open no more than 90° (see Fig.). This circumstance does not matter when the doorway is in the corner of the room and the door opens onto a wall located perpendicular to the plane of the door. In other cases, the customer, together with the master, should decide on priorities, what is more important - the uniformity of appearance of all doors opening into the corridor/living room or the ability of some doors to swing open 180 degrees.

Sometimes there are situations when the length of the door leaf does not fit the doorway. In such cases, it must either be cut using a circular electric saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

Or, on the contrary, it needs to be slightly increased in length. To do this, you will need wood glue, screws and a planed wooden beam, the same size as the door leaf. Due to seasonal deformations wooden doors They can either swell or dry out.

Therefore, if the door is swollen, then a small layer of wood will need to be removed from it so that they can close well. But in cases where the door has dried, a special wooden gasket is made, the thickness of which can be adjusted.

To do this you will need a small piece of copper, tin or brass, but only rectangular in shape. This gasket is then attached to the end door leaf nails or screws, approximately half its height, bending it in half.

After this, an elastic gasket is carefully placed between the plates, and they are clamped quite tightly. As a result, if necessary, it will always be possible to change the thickness of the clamp, thereby ensuring that the doors close tightly.

If you are interested in competent marketing and in starting your own business, we recommend that you pay attention to the Internet magazine “Beautiful Business”, where you will find a lot of useful information.

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Quite often it turns out that the box interior door narrower than the thickness of the wall cut and you have to use an additional strip to eliminate this discrepancy. Today we will tell you how to build up a box using an additional strip and what material the additional elements are made from.

If you decide to go to another city, it is much easier to choose the ones you like door designs, based on their appearance and material characteristics, than to order a door of a certain thickness, taking into account the cut width of the interior partitions. In this case, the doors will cost less, and the discrepancy between the thickness of the frame and the walls will be compensated for by the additional strip. This element must be selected taking into account the color of the door; the material for its production is MDF or chipboard, and the thickness of the planks ranges from 10 to 16 mm. Thicker additional elements are attached with self-tapping screws, thinner ones are fixed with wood glue.

It is difficult to give preference to any additional material, but it is easier to fasten the element with glue; in addition, with adhesive fixation, you will not have to mechanically damage the box with self-tapping screws and it will be less likely to deform during use.

When choosing an extension, also pay attention to the fact that after installation the clearance between it and the wall is one centimeter; a shorter distance will make it more difficult to work with polyurethane foam, and more can lead to deformation of the extension after foaming the voids between the cut of the wall and the door frame.

Installation of additional trim.

On the back of the box there is a special groove for addition; it is into this that the extension element must be inserted, but this must be done only after the box itself has been completely fixed. First, measure the exact distance from the groove to the edge of the wall, then cut the extension to length hand hacksaw or a jigsaw. You can try to select the exact width of the strip when purchasing, but this is difficult, and if you are buying an extension for several doors, it is impossible, so it is best to purchase an additional element with a reserve, since it is easy to cut and is inexpensive.

Depending on the thickness, the extension inserted into the groove is fixed with small self-tapping screws or glue. In the second case, you must first coat the groove and the end of the extension with adhesive, then insert the element into the groove and press firmly for a dozen or two seconds. It is important that the angle of insertion of the planks is exactly 90 degrees, so insert them tightly into the groove, pressing along the entire length.

As a rule, the gap between the door frame and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam, after which the perimeter of the door is decorated with platband.

Dmitry Shekhovtsev

Projects of old and modern multi-storey buildings do not always suit individual apartment residents. Narrow doors create discomfort and prevent the passage of large furniture. To solve the problem, widen the openings by demolishing part of the partition. Meet the project with reverse side The question is that the doors are too wide. The overall sash sags on its hinges under the weight and looks ugly. To solve this problem, apartment residents are beginning to narrow doorway during a major overhaul.

To expand or narrow doorway V panel house you will have to change the length of the adjacent wall. In the technical passport for the apartment, the door is shown schematically. Dimensions are usually not indicated, but the BTI has all the data. When expanding or narrowing the passage in the wall, the layout of the room, originally provided for in the project, is violated. Over time, if you want to sell the apartment, great difficulties will arise with the preparation of documentation.

By law, changing the size or location of the opening for a door block is considered redevelopment. It is advisable to legitimize the corresponding actions. To obtain permission to expand or narrow an interior doorway in a panel house, you need to contact the BTI.

Tool

To perform a narrowing or widening doorways in an apartment, you will need a simple construction tool:

hammer, sledgehammer, long chisel;
hand saw for wood;
plane;
hammer drill, drill, screwdriver, grinder;
pliers, figured and straight screwdriver.

The set of materials depends on the work performed. To narrow the interior doorway you will need a wooden beam, metallic profile, drywall, brick or foam block. The blocks are laid on cement mortar, and the gypsum board sheets are fixed to metal frame self-tapping screws. When expanding the doorway in height, you will need a metal corner to strengthen the upper lintel.

Ways to reduce a passage in a wall

Narrowing an old doorway during redevelopment involves reducing the size of the door in height or width, as well as in both parameters at the same time. The procedure can be performed in three ways: using timber, drywall or blocks.

Most reliable method To reduce the opening in the wall is to partially fill it with blocks. The option is ideal for front door. Suitable materials include brick, cinder block, blocks of cellular concrete. It is better to use foam block or aerated concrete for interior partitions. The material is light, easy to cut, but absorbs moisture. It is slightly less durable than brick.

The work consists of the following actions:

to reduce the height of the passage in the wall, prepare a jumper from a beam or a metal corner;
the workpiece is cut off larger than the width of the passage, and landing nests are made under it at the ends of the wall using a grinder;
After fixing the lintel, the space above it and the sides of the passage in the wall are filled with blocks.

When choosing this method, take into account the weight of the blocks. The heavier the material, the stronger the jumper will be needed. If the whole block does not fit into the gap above the jumper, it is sawed with a grinder or wood, polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam are used for filling. The disadvantage of porous blocks is the absorption of moisture. To prevent fungus from appearing, the structure is treated with protective impregnation.

How to reduce a doorway with timber?

It is easier for an apartment dweller who does not have construction experience to reduce the width of the doorway with timber, and also to lower it. The work order consists of the following stages:

The thickness of the timber used to narrow the doorway is adjusted with a planer so that the workpiece does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall. The surface is treated with a grinder. In this case, the finishing material will fit better.
The dimensions taken from the opening are transferred to the timber. Use a saw to cut the pieces to the required length and fix them to the ends of the wall. The thickness of the beam should not protrude beyond the plane of the wall, and the upper lintel should be cut to such a width that it fits tightly into the ends of the side walls.
When drilling mounting holes on the beam, recesses are provided to allow the heads of the fastening elements to be hidden flush.
The posts and lintel are fixed to the wall with anchors, bolts or other parts.
Large gaps between the frame and the end of the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. Small cracks are sealed with putty.
The finished structure is impregnated with a primer. After drying, they are covered with gypsum board, chipboard or other sheet material.

When reducing the doorway, the frequent dynamic loads acting on the door are taken into account. To prevent the structure from becoming loose, the timber is attached to the wall as often as possible.

After you have managed to lower the door opening with timber, the question arises of how to close the space from above. The easiest way is to cover it with plasterboard, plywood or chipboard. A small gap is hidden with wide platbands. Before finishing, the cracks are filled with foam.

The advantage of this method is the ease of installation of the timber. The downside is the installation limitation. In damp rooms the wooden frame is deformed and cracks due to temperature changes. The method is not suitable for the bathroom and kitchen.

Reducing the span with plasterboard

To increase the door interior opening plasterboard, from the installation side of the profile frame, clean the wall from various materials and treated with a primer.

Seal the opening above the door and along its width with plasterboard if the difference in size between the opening in the wall and the door frame does not exceed 100 mm. To fix the gypsum boards, a frame is made from a galvanized profile. The frame turns out to be quite weak and is easily deformed when large gap when opening the sash. It is better to use a plasterboard structure for an arched passage. To strengthen the gap between the profile and the ends of the wall, fill it with pieces of timber or polyurethane foam.

How to reduce a doorway with foam blocks?

Working with aerated concrete and foam blocks is easy. The material is not heavy and can be easily cut even with a regular hacksaw. Blocks are usually used to narrow passages in thick walls and panel houses.

It is easier to reduce the width of the door opening. The blocks are laid out in a column from the floor to top crossbar. If it is additionally necessary to reduce the height of the passage, a lintel made of wooden beam. The gap is sealed with pieces of foam blocks.

The laying out of blocks begins from the floor. It is important to initially prepare a flat and durable surface. Pieces of reinforcement are embedded between the rows. One end is driven into the wall. This strengthens the structure. The rods will not allow the foam block pillar to move away from the wall.

Used as a mortar for laying blocks adhesive composition on a cement base. It is sold dry in bags and to prepare it, just add water and then mix well. The solution is applied to the blocks with a notched trowel.

The finished structure is impregnated with an antifungal compound, plastered, puttied or sheathed with plasterboard. After finishing, the door frame is installed.

Narrowing the opening with brickwork

When reducing a wide opening with bricks, the work requires similar construction actions as in the case of a foam block. The difference is the heavy weight of the material. Instead of timber lintels, it is better to use metal corners.

They begin to build up a new doorway from the side, not forgetting to reinforce the rows. The masonry is carried out using a solution prepared from three parts sand and one part cement. Water is added until a homogeneous thick mass is obtained. The mortar is applied to the brick with a trowel.

How to reduce a passage with concrete walls?

To for new door To reduce the interior doorway with concrete walls, any of the considered methods will do. The best option- use of blocks. In a lived-in apartment, work begins with exposing the wall. Removal finishing materials will allow you to assess the condition of the concrete structure. If there are strong defects, the wall will have to be partially destroyed, and the resulting widened passage will have to be narrowed again.

To build up an interior doorway with blocks from above, the wall is partially destroyed to insert a lintel. If there was electrical wiring or other communications near the old door frame, they need to be moved.

How to widen a doorway?

To increase the doorway, you will have to remove part of the wall. Expand the passage in concrete and brick partitions possible from 0.7 to 2 m. In a ground floor apartment, the recommended width is adhered to - 1 m and additional reinforcement of the structure is carried out. It is allowed to increase the height of the doorway up to 2.1 m.

Widening the passage in the wall begins with dismantling the door block. The sash is removed from its hinges. The box is cut with a hacksaw and removed with a pry bar. The expansion of the interior doorway is done to install the door bigger size. According to the dimensions of the new block, markings are drawn on the wall.

The excess area is removed in two ways:

Gentle. To cut openings, a grinder with a diamond wheel is used. There is a lot of dust, but the possibility of cracking the entire partition is excluded.

Aggressive. When removing pieces of the wall, a sledgehammer, hammer, chisel, or hammer drill is used. If you overdo it, you can damage the integrity of the entire partition.

An enlarged doorway must be strengthened. It is especially important to strengthen the pier where the old lintel is removed when the passage is expanded in height. The main methods of reinforcement are welding metal corners, channels, tires made of thick sheet steel along the ends of the walls, or installing tie beams with bolts.

Brick house

The peculiarity of expanding the doorway in brick wall is accuracy. In order not to disturb the masonry, it is better not to hit the partition with a sledgehammer. You can widen a doorway in a brick wall with a minimum amount of dust using a hammer and chisel. Bricks are knocked out one by one on the marked area. You can get the job done faster and get the smoothest edges possible by using a grinder, only after cutting there will be a lot of dust left.

The transfer of the block lintel is carried out by increasing the height of the old doorway. Additionally, the top masonry is reinforced with welded channels or tie beams.

Panel house

To expand the interior doorway in concrete wall A grinder with a diamond blade is used in the same way. The panel is cut in turn on each side. If the diameter of the disk is not enough to cover the entire thickness of the concrete, slots are made on both sides of the partition.

You can expand the doorway of a concrete wall without dust using impact drill. Drill along the contour of the marking in frequent steps through holes, and only the reinforcement is cut with a grinder. Pieces of concrete can easily break off with a sledgehammer. If it is necessary to increase the height of the passage in a concrete wall, the old lintel is similarly dismantled.

Large openings are widened in squares, removing sections of the concrete panel from bottom to top. The ends are reinforced with a frame, welding on sheet steel tires or metal corners.

By changing the dimensions of the passage in interior partition, it is important to carefully carry out the dismantling work, install a reliable new structure and coordinate the redevelopment with the BTI.

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