Do-it-yourself log sauna. Construction of bathhouses from a log house. Assemble a bathhouse from rounded logs with your own hands.

Building your own bathhouse is an activity that needs to be approached with all responsibility. As practice shows, most often timber is used to make baths, which makes it possible to create an environmentally friendly, reliable and durable building. This article will discuss how to properly build a bathhouse from timber.

Advantages of timber

Perhaps the most important advantage of timber is the simple construction of a bathhouse from scratch using of this material. In addition, the timber stands out qualitatively among other materials used in the construction of bath structures, and even against the background of its closest analogue - rounded timber.

The main advantages of the timber are as follows:

• Ease of working with the material, thanks to which you can build a bathhouse yourself, without resorting to the services of professional builders;
• Traditional timber has the smallest shrinkage coefficient compared to other wood materials;
• Building a bathhouse from timber is much cheaper than using other building materials;
• A special beam for a bathhouse may have fasteners prepared from the factory, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

However, despite the qualities described above, you need to understand that timber is different from timber. That is why, since we are building a wooden bathhouse, we should choose the material wisely in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Choosing timber for a bath

The quality of the wood directly affects the characteristics of the building, so you need to pay a lot of attention to this issue. When choosing, you need to immediately check the timber for integrity - even extremely minor defects and flaws should be absent. The fact is that any damage has a cumulative effect, as a result of which a small crack can eventually lead to damage and destruction of the tree. It is necessary to understand which wood is better to build a bathhouse from, and which one is better to refuse.

The surface of the wood should not be stained of blue color. The presence of such defects always indicates rotting of the material from the inside, which is most likely caused by dangerous and extremely harmful microorganisms. Naturally, using such wood in the construction of a bathhouse (and any other buildings) is strictly prohibited.

If, during a visual inspection of the timber, traces of damage by rodents or beetles were noticed, then such material is also not suitable for arranging a bathhouse. Good timber has a smooth and smooth surface without damage, dents, cracks, bends or distortions. The presence of any of the listed signs is a guarantee of the fragility of the material.

Algorithm for building a bathhouse

The stages of building a log bathhouse are as follows:

1. Construction of the foundation.
2. Foundation waterproofing.
3. Arrangement of the first crown.
4. Arrangement of the remaining crowns.
5. Creation of door and window openings.
6. Caulking cracks.
7. Roof arrangement.

Foundation arrangement

A completed wooden bathhouse is relatively light in weight, so the extensive monolithic foundation under the building is not required. Quite suitable option there will be a strip or column foundation.

When choosing a strip foundation, you will first have to dig a trench around the perimeter and under each wall of the future building. A mixture of sand and gravel is first poured into the bottom of the pit, then a reinforcing mesh is laid. Next, everything is carried out according to an algorithm familiar to many - the formwork is installed and the concrete solution is poured.

The depth of the foundation is determined individually depending on the degree of soil freezing. As practice shows, the average depth of a trench is about 70-100 cm. In order for the foundation to reliably protect the structure from dampness, it must be raised at least half a meter above ground level.

Along the perimeter of the strip base, you need to pour strips of crushed stone and sand. Then these strips can be filled, for example, with concrete mortar, or a wooden floor can be installed on top of them - you will have to choose the final option yourself. In the same way, you can build a bathhouse in the country, which is what many do.

The columnar foundation is arranged differently. The work begins with the installation of brick supports or asbestos pipes filled with concrete. These elements should be installed around the perimeter, at the corners of the structure and under each wall of the bathhouse. The supports are installed not just in the ground, but on top of a concrete pad. The distance between individual posts should be about 1.5 m.

In any case, the base must be reinforced to ensure maximum strength. When the concrete hardens (and this usually takes about a month), it will be possible to continue work on arranging the bathhouse.

Foundation waterproofing

Heated bitumen is poured over the hardened concrete, onto which sheet roofing felt is laid. When the bitumen hardens, this entire operation will need to be repeated, resulting in a reliable water barrier that can prevent moisture from entering the wooden elements baths

Treating wood with an antiseptic serves partly the same purpose - most special products improve the material’s resistance to all types of damage.

Arrangement of the first crown

Having finished preparatory stages, you can finally start laying the bathhouse. The first stage is laying the first crown. Slats, the thickness of which does not exceed 15 mm, are laid on the waterproofing in increments of 30 cm. Naturally, all slats must be soaked in antiseptic before starting work.

The laid slats protect the building from direct contact with the foundation, thereby significantly providing additional protection for the wood from moisture. The lower beams are laid on top of the slats.

The first crown should not be fixed immediately. First you need to make sure that the structure is laid out correctly and evenly, for which you use a square and a level. Only after the beams have been leveled can they be fastened. There are several ways to do this, but most often the timber is secured with anchor bolts.

However, often when arranging a private bathhouse, they simply refuse to fix the lower crown. The reason for this is quite simple: the dead weight of the structure is large enough to hold the structure in place. In addition, this method provides an unexpected advantage - if it is necessary to replace part of the lower ring, much less effort will be required.

Regardless of the method of fastening, the space between the crown and the base is filled polyurethane foam, after which you can do further work.

Installation of other crowns

A layer is laid on top of the first crown thermal insulation material. For baths, jute, moss or tow are usually used. It is advisable to lay out the material in such a way that a small part of it (about 10 cm) sticks out - in the future you can use this tolerance for caulking.

After the first row, it’s quite logical that it’s time to lay the second one. It is fixed with wooden dowels, for which suitable holes are pre-drilled in the beams. One dowel can connect several sequentially laid rows.

All other rows forming the walls are mounted in the same way. It is worth checking the structure for horizontal and vertical alignment every 2-3 rows. Also, we must not forget about the sealing material, which must be present between all the crowns.

The top two rows of the bathhouse are not fixed. The fact is that wood shrinks over time, and ceiling beams can be installed only when this process becomes almost invisible. Before laying the beams, the upper crowns are dismantled.

Creating door and window openings

There are two fundamentally different schemes used to create doors and windows in a wooden bath:

1. Windows and doors are created after the construction of the bathhouse. In this case, at the stage of laying the crowns, it is necessary to leave gaps that correspond in size to the products being installed (more details: " "). When the bathhouse is built, suitable openings are cut out in the right places using a chainsaw.
2. Windows and doors are prepared in advance. This method is much more complicated, since its implementation will require special grooves and bars with end notches.

In practice, the first method is most often used, which is quite simple and does not require special costs.

Caulking cracks

The assembled structure should be left for about six months so that the wood subsides sufficiently. At this time, the structure should be covered with boards and slate. After this, you can begin to seal the cracks.

Roof arrangement

Roof installation, which can only begin after the building has settled, is as follows:

1. Wooden ceiling beams are laid above the top frame of the walls.
2. Rafters are attached to the fixed beams at a distance of about a meter.
3. TO rafter legs a decking made of pre-selected material or sheathing is nailed under the sheet roofing.
4. Now you can fasten the material in accordance with its laying technology.
5. The ridge is covered with a sheet of galvanized iron.
6. The gables are sewn up suitable material(for example, siding or clapboard).

When the outer part of the roof is installed, all that remains is to equip the interior space - install insulation, waterproofing and carry out finishing work.

Conclusion

This article talks in detail about how to set up a bathhouse from scratch with your own hands. This process is far from the most labor-intensive, especially if you approach it responsibly and the actual execution competently.

Round timber materials, which are used in the construction of various structures without further mechanical processing, are harvested from coniferous and deciduous trees, depending on their purpose.
Round timber is divided into grades I, II, III, and IV, according to GOST 9463-60 and 9462-60. Ungraded timber must meet the requirements for grades III and IV. The moisture content of round logs intended for the construction of load-bearing structures or supports should be no more than 25%. Construction logs are harvested from pine, spruce, cedar, and fir wood. Larch round timber is also widely used in construction as the most moisture-resistant material.

Types of logs for construction depending on the type of processing

All wooden buildings and structures are erected from different types of logs, which differ in the way they are processed:

Rounded log.

It is a round timber with the top layer removed - bark and sapwood. After processing, only a dense base remains. This material retains all its properties, while becoming completely smooth and even. It is very easy and convenient to work with such a log.

A surface-treated tree trunk from which only the bark and some irregularities are removed. The protective layer is sapwood, which is located directly under the bark, but remains practically untouched. This log is characterized by high strength and long service life. In the old days, houses were built from such material, which stood for 150-200 years. Since sanded round logs undergo only surface treatment, they almost completely retain their shape, that is, the difference in the base of the log and its upper part is very noticeable. This must be taken into account during the construction process.

Calibrated log.

As the name suggests, these are fully processed logs of the same size and diameter. They are very convenient and easy to use - walls made from such logs turn out smooth and neat.

Do-it-yourself round timber sauna

Who and when built the first wooden bathhouse is unknown. But we can say with confidence that log baths have stood the test of time and their popularity is only growing. A bathhouse made from round logs has enough advantages: the environmental friendliness of the material, undoubted health benefits, durability and reliability of the building, and, of course, the attractive, colorful appearance of the bathhouse plays a significant role in its popularity.

A log bathhouse is a source of pride for every owner of a country or summer cottage, especially if it was built with your own hands. It is quite possible to do this, although not easy. Below we will briefly look at the main stages of building a bathhouse - from choosing the material to installing the roof. We hope that the materials provided will help you get a general idea of ​​the principles of constructing log buildings.

main stages construction work:

Project preparation.
Selection and purchase of material.
Construction of the foundation.
Processing and preparation of logs.
Walling.
Installation of doors, windows, roofing.
Construction of the stove, removal of the chimney pipe.
Interior decoration of the premises.
Thermal insulation of the building.

choosing wood for construction

It is safe to say that choosing the right wood for a bathhouse is half the success. This needs to be taken as seriously as possible. In the vast majority of cases, baths are built from coniferous trees, which are durable and resistant to moisture.

most popular types of wood:

Larch

Quite an expensive material, which, however, is worth the money spent on it. Larch is a very durable, hard and moisture-resistant material. In addition, it is not at all necessary to build a bathhouse entirely from larch. Most often it is used to lay the crown of a log house, as a strong and durable material, and the walls are built from cheaper coniferous species.

By quality characteristics it is, of course, inferior to larch, but has a number of valuable advantages. Pine is easy to process - this is important, especially if construction work is carried out on your own. Pine wood is beautiful, allows air to pass through well, providing natural ventilation premises, and, in addition, Pine forest round timber, the price of which is an order of magnitude lower than larch, is more affordable for the average buyer.

Builders value spruce wood for its ease of processing and resistance to sudden changes temperatures and low resin content. The high resin content of wood increases its service life, but if even a drop of hot resin gets on the skin during bath procedures, a burn to the bathhouse visitor is guaranteed.
Spruce wood enhances the beneficial effect of bath procedures, and the aroma emanating from it relaxes and soothes.

Not everyone can afford to buy a round oak log, but this material is always popular, primarily because of its durability. Oak logs are heavy, and the construction of a log house requires significant effort, and sometimes the use of heavy equipment. But the result is worth it - an oak building will last for decades without requiring repairs. Oak wood has medicinal properties, therefore it cannot be treated with antiseptics.

preparing logs for building a log house

A log delivered from a felling site should be stored in bark for no more than two weeks maximum. If logs need to be stored for some time, they are stacked. Transverse spacers are installed between the rows of logs. For greater stability, each log is nailed to the spacer. The stack must be reliably protected from exposure to precipitation and direct sunlight so that the logs are ventilated, that is, natural ventilation is ensured.

For the walls of the log house, straight logs are selected, preferably of the same thickness. In this case, the difference in the diameter of the ends should not be more than 3-5 cm. If the logs are long, then the difference in their upper part - the run-off should be no more than 1 cm per 1 mm of trunk length.
The diameter of the logs is selected according to the size of the longitudinal groove. The width of the groove relative to the diameter of the log is approximately 2/3. If the winter temperature in the region reaches -20 C, the groove is made 10 cm wide, at -30 C - 12, at -40 - 16 cm.
The length of the log is determined by the dimensions of the building wall plus the protrusion beyond the wall.
For construction, it is preferable to use recently harvested logs, since it is easier to make cuts in them. In addition, such a log produces fewer cracks as it dries. When a round log dries, its length practically does not decrease, and the material can lose no more than 10% in diameter.
The number of crowns required for a log house is selected depending on the height of the future building and the diameter of the logs. The first crown, or, as it is also called, the frame, should be larger than the others for the reason that logs will subsequently be driven into it. The first crown is laid on the foundation, having previously laid a layer on it waterproofing material(roofing felt is most often used). After this, logs are selected for the next crowns. In this case, it is necessary to carefully monitor the geometry of the building to prevent distortions.

Fresh logs must first be stripped of their bark. The easiest way to do this is with a special tool - a plow. In appearance, it resembles a bracket with handles curved at a certain angle.

To remove the bark, you can also use the usual bayonet shovel. The narrow part of the shovel is cut evenly and sharpened. An ax is rarely used to clear logs of bark, since it is difficult to work with and takes more time.

Since the log is round, so that it does not spin during the cutting process, the log is placed on several short logs in which triangular grooves are cut.

At the ends of the processed log, vertical lines are marked - the boundaries of the future edge. Two nails are driven in from above, a chopping construction cord is pulled between them, which is slightly pulled back and released - the painted cord leaves a line on the surface of the log along which the log is cut.
First of all, rough cutting of the log is carried out - cuts are made along the entire length of the future edge to the required depth in increments of approximately 30 cm. After this, the layer of wood between the cuts is removed with an ax. After this, the edge is cleaned with an ax or planed with sherhebel, forming a clean and even plane.

Today, craftsmen prefer not to cut logs, but to cut down the edges with a chainsaw. However, you should not cut the log down to the cutting line. Fibers torn apart by a saw chain soon begin to rot. In this case, it is best not to cut the wood down to about 5 cm from the cut line. The rest of the wood is cut down with an ax, which “clogs” the fibers, thus preventing their premature rotting.

A sanded log, as it dries, inevitably becomes covered with a network of cracks. Cracks appear and spread randomly, and in some cases can reach the core of the log. To prevent cracks from appearing on the facade of the logs, craftsmen relieve tension from the wood by creating artificial “cracks.” On the side of the log opposite the longitudinal groove, a narrow longitudinal groove with a depth of approximately ½ of the radius of the log is cut or sawed. When the log dries or absorbs moisture, the groove will contract or expand, thus preventing cracks from appearing.

log connection options

The logs are connected to each other in several ways: “into the paw” and “into the cup” - the so-called connection with the remainder.

cup connection

First of all, the “cup” is marked on the log. This is done using a “dash” - a tool for marking logs. The line is attached to the upper log in such a way that one leg of the tool moves along the upper beam, and the second draws an arc at this time.

After this, the upper logs are moved aside and placed in the finished recess. The logs should fit snugly against each other. Important point: The second cup should be slightly raised above the first, and not at the same level as it.

After the “cups” are cut down, the first logs are laid on top, after which marks are drawn for the groove between the first and second crown. This work requires attentiveness and complete concentration from the master - the line must be very accurately moved to the depth of the future groove, after which the resulting risks are transferred to the “cups”. Next, the log is lifted, turned upside down, and cuts are made to the depth of the groove. The ends of the log are hewn off, after which a notch is made.

connecting logs “to the paw”

The technology is very similar to the one described above. Its main difference is the presence of a spike, which is designed to reduce the airflow of the corner. The spike is one third the size of the length and width of the “paw”. It must be taken into account that such a connection is used only if logs of the same diameter are used. The hewn sides of the log and its end are divided into 8 equal parts, parallel straight lines are drawn through the marked points, and the edges are marked with letters. The resulting points are connected - the edges of the “paw” are obtained. Excess wood is removed with an axe.

building walls

After completing the work described above, things begin to move faster - the crowns are laid in the required sequence and the walls of the bathhouse are assembled. Insulation is placed in the grooves - previously they used moss, today craftsmen put tow in the grooves. The bars of the crowns are strengthened with dowels for more reliable fixation.
In the places of future doors, 5 crowns are installed on top and 2 crowns on the bottom. For windows in the wall, prepare 3 crowns on top and 5 below.

roof arrangement

If the bathhouse is separate from other buildings, then the best option would be to install a gable roof. When the bathhouse is an extension to the main building, a roof with one slope is made, which is a continuation of the roof of the main building.

For gable roofs, the optimal slope angle is 25-45 degrees, for single-pitch roofs - 20-30. It should be noted that the roof wooden bath should be heavy. To “weight down” the roof, craftsmen often resort to Norwegian technology, arranging the so-called “earth roof”. This design not only has an impressive weight, but snow does not accumulate on such a roof; it melts and flows off in the form of water.

Arrangement of the floor in the bathhouse

The floor in the bathhouse must have a slight slope towards the drain, which is connected by a pipe to a septic tank or waste pit. The floor is installed on logs, which are installed on support pillars with waterproofing. It is recommended to lay the floor boards not end-to-end, but with a small gap - approximately 5-6 mm.

The sewage system in the bathhouse must be equipped with a ventilation riser. Usually it is mounted on a drain by installing an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. A cap is placed on the top of the pipe or a deflector is installed.

It is best to place the stove near the door, in the corner. This arrangement of the heat source allows you to simultaneously heat the steam room, locker room and shower. The shelves in the steam room are installed in the form of steps against the wall.

At the design stage, it is necessary to include in the plan such premises as a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room, a dressing room, and a relaxation room. If funds allow, you can add a small pool, veranda, balcony, etc.

After the sauna is ready, you should not immediately start finishing works– the bathhouse must settle properly. It usually takes at least a year for a log building to completely shrink. Only after this can interior finishing work begin. If you neglect this rule, distortions in door and window openings and cracks in finishing materials may occur.

Throughout the entire period of shrinkage of the building, you need to carefully monitor it and promptly seal the gaps between the crowns of tow.

It is quite possible to build a sauna from a log with your own hands. But if you do not have at least basic knowledge and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this work to professionals, or, if possible, watch their work and soberly assess your capabilities.

Traditionally, a Russian steam room is built from solid logs or timber. This material is not only environmentally friendly and durable, it also has high heat and sound insulation characteristics. In addition to its practicality, wood is attractive because even a novice developer who knows how to work with wood can build a log bathhouse with his own hands. electric drill and an axe.

Advantages of sauna log houses

A log bathhouse is a reliable and practical structure, the main advantage of which is the speed of construction. Other advantages of wooden construction include the following:

• availability of construction work without the involvement of third-party specialists;
• possible shrinkage of the finished log house does not exceed 11 cm;
• financial savings with self-construction wooden bath;
• big choice finished projects baths or the opportunity to develop your own project;
• confidence in the quality of the building material;
• useful experience in private low-rise construction.

Choosing lumber for a bath

The log house for the bathhouse is built from coniferous wood - spruce, juniper, pine, cedar and larch. At the same time, the best lumber for construction wooden baths The part of wood from the butt (root part) to the crown is considered. This area has a high density of wood fibers and is virtually free of flaws.

There are two types of wood on the construction market:

• dried;
• with natural humidity levels.

Important! After construction, the log house made from dried material is smaller.

In order to properly build a log bathhouse, it is important to consider the following recommendations when choosing and preparing lumber:

1. The quality of the material is determined by the absence of stains, deformations, knots, cracks and wormholes on the surface.
2. The permissible level of curvature of one log should not be more than 10 mm, diameter - from 25 to 35 cm.
3. A wooden frame from raw material is erected immediately after its preparation for uniform drying and shrinkage of the finished structure. This will prevent possible deformation of the bath.
4. Wood felling is often carried out during the cold period - in late autumn or winter.
5. The sawn logs must be stable and mature for at least 30 days from the moment of felling.
6. When preparing the material yourself, the logs are carefully cleaned of bark and knots with a scraper. In this case, strips up to 20 cm wide are left on the edges for natural shrinkage of the wood.
7. To ensure long-term storage, cut logs are stacked in bundles or stacks, maintaining 6 cm gaps between individual elements, 1.5 cm between rows, and 15 cm from the top ground level to the bottom elements.

Important! When preparing logs, one should take into account the technical shrinkage of the trunk diameter, which should be up to 8 mm for each linear meter wood.

Preparing a working design for a wooden bath

The construction of a log bathhouse is a labor-intensive and responsible process that is carried out in stages. The initial stage is preparing the bathhouse project.

A typical project includes:

• choice suitable place for development;
• layout of the number of floors and interior spaces of the bathhouse;
• layout of the location of window and door openings;
• selection of heating, ventilation equipment and lighting devices;
• selection of construction and finishing materials;
• development of premises design;
• calculation of construction costs.

Finished projects are presented in the public domain, but to receive an individual sketch, you should contact the design office.

Construction of a reliable foundation for a bathhouse

Log baths have an impressive weight, so it is necessary to build a strip or type foundation for them.

The strip base is suitable for moving soils with different levels of freezing, can withstand the maximum load of the structure, and also allows the construction of underground buildings - basements, cellars and garages.

The columnar base is more economical, practical, accessible for installation, and has high strength indicators. It is suitable for construction on soils with a high content of clay, sand, and those prone to rapid freezing. The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of arranging cellars and basements, as well as the need for additional insulation of the floor base.

The construction of a strip foundation is carried out as follows:

1. At the selected site for construction, a trench is dug: depth - up to 100 cm, width - up to 45 cm.
2. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion, moistened and compacted. The height of the sand layer is 18 cm.
3. Formwork is assembled from boards, reinforced with metal rods, top part which are cut according to the height of the foundation.
4. The formwork is filled with ready-mixed concrete around the perimeter of the trench to construct a monolithic base.
5. After the concrete has completely dried, a waterproofing layer is laid to prevent the base from being washed away. To do this, concrete is treated with hot bitumen and then covered with rolled roofing felt.

Construction of log walls

The next stage of work is the assembly of the wall structures of the log house from round timber. Many novice developers are interested in how to cut down a bathhouse and what tools to use in the work? The standard set of tools includes:

• electric or gasoline saw;
• ax and hammer for wood;
• electric drill and plane;
• chisels of different sizes;
• measuring instruments - building level, tape measure, ruler, square and plumb line.

To assemble a sauna log house, classical technology is used, which is simple and easy to master. It involves the construction of a wooden structure in strict sequence.

1. When erecting walls, it is necessary to make a binding (cladding) crown. It uses 4 logs, pre-treated with an antiseptic. To ensure a tight fit of the crown to the foundation, insulating material is used - tow or jute. The location of the logs is at right angles, the connection is in a bowl or paw. The optimal size of the log house is 9 sq.m.
2. The next two pairs of logs are installed in a similar way, forming the second row.
3. The joints between the logs are carefully caulked to prevent heat loss.
4. The crowns are secured to each other with square dowels or round wooden dowels.
5. When the required height of the log house is reached, ceiling beams and a rafter system are installed.

Important! The technology for connecting log house elements into a bowl is provided for rounded and prepared logs. And the technology is in place - for logs and beams without preliminary preparation.

Construction of the roof structure

The next stage - the construction of the roof - can begin after the frame has completely settled to prevent its deformation.

The work is performed in the following order:

1. Top on wooden structure beams are mounted, which are the basis for fixing the rafters. The distance between the legs of the rafter system is no more than 100 cm.
2. On rafter elements The boards are tightly installed to create a continuous flooring, and a vapor barrier is fixed between them.
3. The selected roofing material is mounted on the sheathing - slate, metal tiles, ondulin, etc.
4. The gables are lined with clapboard or other available material.

Arrangement of openings for windows and doors, caulking of buildings

The manufacture of door and window openings is carried out after the complete completion of the construction of the bathhouse. To do this, use a saw to cut gaps in the wall structures: four for windows, one for front door and one for ventilation.

After this, all that remains is to insulate the finished building in order to reduce possible heat losses during operation.

To eliminate inter-crown cracks and gaps formed after shrinkage, a log bathhouse requires mandatory insulation. For this, moss, ribbon jute and tow are used.

Interior decorative finishing

A rough flooring with an additional thermal insulation layer is installed inside the premises. To cover the walls of the steam room, lining is used, under which an insulating and vapor barrier layer on a foil base is mounted. This prevents overheating and destruction of the wooden structure.

The best material for interior wall cladding is hardwood, resistant to high temperatures and humidity.

Tiles or porcelain stoneware with a rough surface are laid on the floor.

And now a bathhouse from a log house is built with your own hands, seasoned, insulated and ready for further use - the first firebox and health procedures.

Log baths, built from environmentally friendly wood, are far superior to buildings made from other building materials in their microclimate and comfort. They retain heat well and are highly durable. A log bathhouse is made from two types of wood: beams or logs. You can build it yourself. The main thing is to correctly follow the instructions for constructing the structure.

Is it worth building a log bathhouse yourself?

A log house is a wooden structure assembled from specially processed logs or beams. One closed row of logs is called a crown. Currently, there are several ways to build a sauna log house.

1. Contact a special company. Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, specialists will correctly calculate the load on load-bearing elements, will take into account the shrinkage of logs, etc.
2. Hire cobblers - an independent team of carpenters. But this can add problems, since they usually build a bathhouse according to sketches proposed by the owner, and not according to the project. As a result, mistakes are made in choosing a foundation and in structural calculations.
3. Erect with your own hands. You will have to study a lot of relevant literature, delving into a lot of subtleties. But a log bathhouse will be of high quality and will cost much less.

Before you start building a chopped bathhouse, you need to master the technology of work and choose the material: timber, wild or rounded logs. It is important to know: a log house is cut with an axe. When processing a log with this tool, the capillary fibers can no longer absorb moisture, as they become clogged. Hence, chopped sauna does not get wet, which means it retains heat well and is not subject to putrefactive processes. This is how our ancestors processed wood, thanks to which the log houses stood for more than a century. And this is how real masters work today.

However, recently log houses have been sawed with a chainsaw. That is, using an analogy, they build a building called a “cut down”. At the same time, the wood fibers remain open and constantly absorb moisture. As a result, the moisture content of such a log is higher than that of wood processed with an ax. Consequently, wood is more susceptible to infection by fungi, which significantly reduces the service life of the bathhouse, and its thermal conductivity increases.

To save time and make work easier, you can use a chainsaw without cutting a few millimeters to the marking, and make the final cut with an ax.

Preparatory work before construction

The construction of a bathhouse from a log house is carried out in several stages:

• selection of material and preparation of tools;
• construction of a foundation for a log house;
• cutting and assembling walls;
• Finishing work.

Before starting work, you need to decide on a log construction project and the choice of a place for a bathhouse on your plot of land. The bathhouse should be located near the house, preferably next to a pond. It is not recommended to build it next to the road.

Choosing material for the log house

Having low thermal conductivity, chopped baths retain heat well. Therefore, there is no need for them additional insulation. Properly prepared materials for the log house will allow the bathhouse to last for decades without reconstruction or repair.

Advantages and disadvantages of chopped logs

The advantages of this material include resistance to biological corrosion and strength. It also has high heat-protective properties due to the presence of natural layers of the trunk. Logs after felling are slightly susceptible to cracking and absorption of moisture.

The disadvantages include:

• high cost of manual harvesting;
• increased complexity of construction work;
• the diameter of the log decreases from the butt part to the top, as a result of which the joining of the crowns becomes difficult;
• long shrinkage.

To prepare chopped logs, use pine or spruce. Larch is used for the lower crowns. Standard length chopped logs are usually 6 m, although you can also find bigger size– up to 12 m. Logs have a diameter of 24–26 cm and more. The highest quality tree is considered to be pine, cut down in winter time, since then she has low humidity and less infested with bugs. Log processing involves removing knots and removing bark using an ax and a scraper.

Advantages and disadvantages of rounded logs

Currently, they have begun to use elements that are identical in cross-section. The advantages of this log include the following indicators.

1. Ideal and beautiful surface with natural wood color.
2. The elements are easily and quickly folded into a durable structure.
3. There are practically no gaps between the crowns due to the tight fit.
4. The diameter of the logs is the same along the entire length.

The disadvantages include the need to use impregnations, shrinkage during the year, flammability and high cost. Such a log may also become covered with cracks.

Larch is used to produce rounded logs. Other coniferous tree varieties are also used. The diameter of the logs varies in the range of 160–320 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages of timber

The following types of timber are used in construction: profiled, glued and non-profiled. To choose good timber To build a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account such material features as humidity and homogeneity. Due to the processing, the timber lacks natural protection. That is why cracks can appear on it in the most unexpected places.

The length of the elements can reach 6 m. They are easy to construct and do not require a powerful foundation. The advantages of timber include its low price, the possibility of self-production from logs using a band saw.

How to calculate the material correctly

When calculating the material for a log house, it is necessary to take into account some points: the dimensions of the bathhouse, the number of future rooms, the number of floors, the dimensions of the material itself - timber or logs. Calculations are made using two formulas: the first one calculates the amount of material, and the second one determines the volume. You need to choose the one that best suits your situation. You can also use an online calculator.

• the height of the bath must be divided by the thickness of the material = a;
• divide the length of the perimeter of the log house by the length of the timber = b;
• a x b x number of load-bearing walls = number of beams for construction (in pieces).

To determine the volume of wood for building a bathhouse, you need to multiply the length of the perimeter of the building (P) by the height (H) of the building and the thickness of the beam (D):

R x N x D = volume of material in cubic meters.

It is necessary to take into account the perimeter (the sum of the lengths of all walls) of the bathhouse, and not its area. Otherwise, you will have to buy additional material, which will lead to unnecessary expenses for transport costs.

Selection of tools for making a log house

To cut, you need to acquire tools: both manual and electric, which will make the work easier and significantly speed up the process.

1. Carpenter's axe.
2. Drill.
3. Electric planer.
4. Square.
5. Chisel.
6. Hacksaw.
7. Plumb line, level, tape measure, marker.
8. Chainsaw.
9. Scriber.
10. Mallet.
11. A special compass is a carpenter's line.
12. Non-stretch cord.

After selecting tools and preparation, they move on to building a bathhouse from timber or logs. There are Russian, Canadian and Norwegian versions of felling.

Technology for constructing a log or timber bathhouse

Typically, log steam rooms are built on one floor, but there are two-story buildings. The bathhouse has now ceased to be a place only for taking water procedures. It is increasingly used for relaxation with family or friends. In this case, the attic will be optimal solution for organizing leisure time.

Choosing a foundation

When choosing a foundation for a log house, it is necessary to take into account many factors, such as the area and weight of the bathhouse, soil characteristics, and region of residence. The following types of foundations are distinguished.

1. Columnar. A wooden bathhouse will require strong pillars made of reinforced concrete or brick. They are placed in the corners of the building at intervals of 2.5 m. Mainly used for small baths.
2. Tape. It is buried to different depths depending on the type of soil. Suitable for stable soils only. A strip buried foundation is constructed mainly for massive baths, but a shallow foundation is suitable for medium-sized buildings. It is more popular because of its strength and ease of construction.
3. Pile. Such bases can be wooden, reinforced concrete and steel (screw). Sometimes a strip or slab grillage is built on the piles. Constructed on any soil.
4. Monolithic. Very durable and expensive. It can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future bath.

A separate foundation is built under the stove in the steam room, which should be no closer than 10 cm from the base of the log house.

Laying the first (lower) crown

He is constantly exposed to destructive influences. Proximity to the soil, water rolling down the walls, contact with the foundation, precipitation - all this does not add to the durability of the casing. Therefore, special attention is paid to him.

The first crown should be made from the thickest logs, preferably larch or oak (their wood is the most resistant to rotting). It is important to remember that in order to avoid the walls getting wet from the base, it is necessary to lay 2-3 layers of waterproofing on the foundation. Also, the crowns need to be treated several times with antiseptics to prevent the destructive processes of rotting.

There are two ways to lay the lower crowns. According to the first, the side lying on the foundation is trimmed by 4–5 cm for a tight fit. The crowns are placed in the “bowl” option. The log house with this type of felling turns out to be reliable, the protruding ends of the logs protect the corner from precipitation (but this method is less economical). Do not forget to lay an inter-crown seal between the waterproofing and the wood (this is moss, tow, jute, etc.).

The disadvantage of this method is that gaps form between the foundation and the logs, which must be sealed with halves of logs. You can get rid of cracks by pouring the foundation with at different levels opposite sides. This kind of crown molding is more reliable due to the fact that the logs will be subject to minimal processing.

Second way. Two opposite logs are cut in half, while the remaining two crowns are only 4–5 cm apart. They are connected to each other by a corner notch “ohryap” or “in the paw”. This method is much more complicated than cutting into a bowl, so it is not recommended to use this option without a carpenter with extensive experience. The jointing of the crowns “into the paw” requires careful execution, otherwise the corners of the log house will turn out “cold” and no amount of insulation will help you. There are no gaps with this method of laying crowns.

To prevent rotting of the frame crowns, experts recommend using backing boards (20–30 cm wide and 5–8 cm thick), which are laid between the foundation and the lower log. They are much easier to replace when rotting: in this case, the frame is lifted with jacks. Before laying, the boards are soaked in waste machine oil or treated with antiseptic agents. Due to the threat of rapid decay, it is not recommended to cover them with bitumen or wrap them in roofing felt. An inter-crown sealant is laid between the foundation waterproofing, backing boards and the first crown.

The first crown must be erected immediately along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse.

Construction of door and window openings

In a log bathhouse, openings for windows and doors are made in two ways. The first is after the construction of the bathhouse is completed. After shrinking the structure in the right places, openings of the required size are cut out using a chainsaw. The first and last logs are cut to 1⁄2, which will subsequently facilitate the process of trimming. This method is applicable to simple and rounded logs. If the bathhouse is made of laminated veneer lumber, then be careful because of the possible chipping and peeling of the glued boards.

Second option. Openings for windows and doors are cut out in the log during the installation of bathhouse crowns, at intervals of 3–4 crowns. This is done to prevent possible extrusion of the crowns. After the construction of the log house is completed, these “crossbars” are removed.

The first method does not require any special costs and is simple to set up, so it is most often used in practice. When making window and door openings in a chopped bath, do not forget to make a frame to protect them from distortion. The casing is carried out in the form of a prefabricated frame.

We caulk the log house

Caulking (or caulking) is the sealing of cracks and grooves between the crowns of a log house with special materials. Caulking a bath can be done in several ways.

1. Stretch. The gap is tightly filled with insulation, the remains of which should stick out 5–6 cm from the gap. Roll up a tight roll from the protruding fibers and push it into the groove using a tool. After this procedure, the material should not protrude from the logs by more than 1 cm.
2. To the set. Suitable for large gaps of different widths. Loops are made from 2 mm thick strands of sealant, which are pushed into the groove until the gap is completely filled. With this method, fiber residues do not stick out from the cracks.

Caulking cannot be done on only one wall, as this will lead to distortion of the frame and its subsequent disassembly. Therefore, you only need to caulk the structure from the bottom up along the entire perimeter of the log house.

After carrying out the external caulking work, they move on to the internal caulking of the bathhouse walls. These actions must be carried out twice: immediately after the construction of the log house and after the complete shrinkage of the bathhouse.

We treat the log house with impregnations and antiseptics

The main enemies of the structure, in addition to fire, are fungi, lichens, and wood-boring beetles. If you do not treat the wood of the bathhouse by special means, then you can lose the log house. Antiseptics are transparent (glazing) and opaque. Glazing compounds are washed out by precipitation over time, so they should be reapplied periodically. There are also these types of antiseptics.

1. Impregnating. They penetrate deep into the wood. They allow the wood to breathe and are odorless. Made on the basis of organic substances.
2. Film-forming compounds. Form on a tree protective film. Antiseptics based on alkyd resins are not washed out by precipitation and completely paint over the wood texture.

It is not allowed to apply film-forming antiseptics as the first layer, as deep cracks may appear (only after impregnation).

Log houses are processed only in the warm season. After protecting with antiseptic agents, it is necessary to treat the bathhouse with a fire-fighting compound. There are two options for covering a log house with protective agents:

• with a brush - this method is labor-intensive, but allows you to process the entire log house;
• spray - speeds up the treatment process, but does not guarantee coverage of the entire log house with an antiseptic, since only visible surfaces are accessible.

We build the roof of the bathhouse

The last crown of a frame made of timber or logs is a support for roofing system. Therefore, its construction must be treated with particular care. You can also install an embedded beam - Mauerlat. It is made of material with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm and is fixed on the upper crown.

The roof of a log bathhouse can be single-pitched or gable. The pitched roof has low thermal insulation characteristics, but is being built quickly. It is created with a slope of 5 degrees so that moisture flows freely from the roof surface. A gable roof allows you to create an attic for drying brooms and storing items or a living space for relaxation.

Construction of the roof begins immediately after the construction of the log house. Before creating it, check the elements of the upper crown with a building level for horizontalness. The truss structure of the bathhouse roof consists of crossbars, racks, tie rods, struts and lintels. Thanks to them, you can strengthen the rafter system and increase its rigidity.

The following types of rafters are distinguished.

1. Sliding – withstands shrinkage of the log house up to 15%. Due to shrinkage of the structure, significant distortions of the bathhouse are possible. Floating rafters made using sliding supports solve this problem.
2. Layered - suitable for construction with slight shrinkage. Typically used in construction pitched roofs, however gable roofs baths with a slight angle of inclination can also be equipped with similar rafters.
3. Hanging - they are a triangular truss, the beams of which pass through the entire structure.

Bathhouse floor beams can be laid in the following ways: secure the ends of the beams to the upper crown; laid on top of the walls and extending beyond them; The roof rafter ties act as ceilings.

Rafter trusses for the roof of a bathhouse can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready-made, lifted and installed on the mauerlat. The outer trusses are installed first, with the rest between them. The sheathing is attached along the entire roof truss structure. The last stage is styling roofing material.

Features of log shrinkage

Shrinkage of a log house is a decrease in the height of the walls of a building due to shrinkage of wood. This process is completed no earlier than 1.5 years after the construction of the box. Finishing work can begin in six months to a year, since during this time the main shrinkage of the walls occurs. It is impossible to predict the exact time, as it depends on many factors: material - the shrinkage of logs is higher than the shrinkage of timber; season - a tree cut down in winter is denser and more reliable; sizes of logs or beams; wood moisture; wind blowing the area; types of wood - cedar and larch are the strongest and densest, and the shrinkage of the log frame is the least compared to other types of wood.

Since wood easily accepts and releases moisture, and also contracts or expands with temperature changes, it is strictly forbidden to use fixed fasteners when building a log house. Shrinkage of the bath can be mechanical or natural. In the first case, the upper rims press on the lower ones. The shrinkage of the bath can be reduced in this way.

1. Using jute insulation, which softens the pressure of the structure.
2. Using square dowels, staggering them. They are able to get tightly stuck in the hole, thereby turning the frame into a single whole.
3. Shrinkage jacks, which are installed under the crowns of the log house in problem areas.
4. Spring compensators consisting of long self-tapping screw with steel spring. They are installed in pre-drilled holes. Their main task is to ensure a strong connection of the crowns with each other without the formation of large gaps, accelerating and facilitating the process of shrinkage of the log house.

It is impossible to reduce natural shrinkage, since it a natural phenomenon. The complete completion of shrinkage of the bathhouse occurs 5–10 years from the date of construction of the structure. During this time, the dimensions of the bathhouse can decrease by 5–10%. That is, for example, if the ceiling height was initially 2.5 m, then after drying the wood it can drop to 2.25 m.

Each stage of bathhouse construction must be carefully thought out and analyzed. Strict adherence to technology will allow you to build a high-quality and durable bathhouse with your own hands. A bathhouse made of logs or timber looks attractive and does not require additional finishing of the facade.

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about ideal conditions blanks, which we will consider below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include the round shape and degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally for a bath they should be used conifers trees (spruce, larch, etc.). Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Timber processing

Step 1. After it was delivered to you consumables(or you cut it down and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparing logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

Let us immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

• strip foundation;
• columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Pouring the foundation

Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Columnar foundation

If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

• brick;
• from asbestos pipes.

Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.

Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing the base

Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparing tools

To work you will need the following equipment:

We will pay special attention to the last tool - the “line”. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as the frame crown should be edged to ensure a tight fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections during the construction of log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using a “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly together, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

It's obvious that the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.

Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:

• square dowels;
• round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is complete, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. After raising the walls to the desired height, lay the ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.

Video - Roof made of aspen shingles

Stage 7. Doors and window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

• hammer;
• caulk (made of wood or metal).

Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.

Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video – Caulk of a log house

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.

Step 1. Lay on the wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail a solid board deck to the rafters (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.

After this, proceed to further planned work - pouring concrete screed or the construction of a wooden one (in the second case, the logs cut into the logs of the second crown and are fixed), install, carry out the interior and arrangement of the steam room according to your project.

1. Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, joints in the lower rim are not allowed.
2. When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can assemble the logs before drying by placing a sealant between them.
3. It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to buildDIY log house.