Do-it-yourself attic insulation. Insulating your attic will make your home warmer! A layer of insulation in the attic

To reduce heat loss in a private home, one effective system heating is not enough - to minimize them it is necessary to insulate all elements of the building. The same applies to the roof. If you do not plan to install an attic, you will need to insulate the cold attic floor.

A little history of roofing

Since ancient times, people have built private households with such high quality that they could stand for 100 years. At the same time, it was not cold to live in them, but the roof frame was made of natural wood was always dry. As for the shape of the roofs on such buildings, they were most often built with two slopes and had a slight slope.

This choice was explained by the fact that the snow that fell in winter was supposed to linger on the roof and serve as a natural insulation. One, or less often two, windows were made in the attic of the building. They were closed for the winter and then the air in the under-roof space played the role of a heat insulator.


IN summer period The windows were opened slightly at night to lower the temperature in the attic. When it was hot, they were closed, and the air did not heat up. This is how the temperature in the attic was regulated.

In winter, when snow fell, it covered the roof with a continuous carpet and thereby acted as a natural roofing insulator. Even in severe frosts, the temperature in the under-roof space did not drop below zero. As a result, the house was warm in cold weather.

The roof slopes were not insulated to prevent the snow on them from melting. The rafter system was left open, thereby allowing it to be inspected and current repairs. Therefore, in such attics only the floors were thermally insulated.

If the roof slopes are insulated, then the attic space becomes a heated attic, which has a different functional purpose.

Building materials for thermal insulation of floors - the better way to insulate

Presented on the domestic market big choice building materials. To decide how to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, you need to take into account the conditions in which the heat insulator will be used.

There are a number of requirements for insulation:

  • maintaining its original qualities at temperatures from -30 to +30 degrees;
  • in hot weather conditions, the material should not emit substances harmful to people and freeze in severe frost;
  • you need to choose a fire-resistant heat insulator if you plan to install lighting in the attic;
  • products must be moisture resistant so that when wet their original properties are not reduced.


Before purchasing materials for insulating the floor of an unheated attic in a private household, you need to consider what the floor is made of. If this wooden beams, then bulk, roll or slab insulation is used. When the floor was created from concrete slabs, heavy bulk or slab insulators can be used. Often a cement screed is poured onto the floor.

They sell in the form of slabs and mats:

  • mineral wool;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • Styrofoam;
  • straw;
  • seaweed.


The following are produced in roll form:

  • mineral wool;
  • stone and glass wool;
  • algae ladders.

One of the most popular options for arranging thermal insulation is insulating the attic floor with mineral wool.


Bulk materials include:

  • expanded clay;
  • sawdust;
  • straw;
  • reed;
  • ecowool;
  • granular foam;
  • slag.

When installing insulation in the attic wooden house, you need to use natural, environmentally friendly and breathable materials.

Insulating the attic floor with mineral wool

This modern and popular insulation is produced in rolls or mats. Mineral wool does not burn, does not rot, and is not dangerous for various microorganisms and rodents.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool is carried out in stages:

  1. First, lay the lining material on the floor. In the case of an economical option, inexpensive glassine is laid on the ceiling. More expensive and of higher quality will be the installation of a flooring made from a vapor barrier film, which is mounted with an overlap.
  2. The joints of the segments are glued with tape or fastened with wooden slats, fixing them with a stapler.
  3. Width thermal insulation material selected taking into account technical standards for a specific region. The mineral wool is laid tightly between the joists, leaving no gaps. Scotch tape is used to seal the joints.
  4. After laying the insulation is completed, level boards are placed on the joists and thus form the floor in the attic.


The above-described solution for how to insulate the attic of a private house with mineral wool gives the material the opportunity to “breathe” and ventilate when moisture gets on it. To prevent penetration humid air waterproofing is installed in the insulation under the roof.

When working with mineral wool, you need to use protective equipment, such as a respirator, goggles, gloves and overalls.

Application of extruded polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is a loose material, so it is used when it is necessary to insulate a floor made of joists and beams. For thermal insulation of slabs, extruded polystyrene foam is used, which is denser than conventional foam.


Before laying it, the surface of the base is leveled. WITH warm side There is no need for a vapor barrier on the floor, since concrete slabs have virtually no vapor permeability. A vapor barrier film is laid out on the prepared base. Then slabs of extruded insulation are laid out in a checkerboard pattern. They blow into the joints polyurethane foam.

After it dries and becomes hard, the thermal insulation slabs are poured concrete mixture about 4–6 centimeters thick. After hardening, the screed becomes suitable for use as an attic floor. If desired, you can lay the final coating on the screed.

Insulation of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is a lightweight and at the same time loose heat insulator consisting of cellulose; it also contains flame retardants, for example, boric acid and borax. Before starting work, a film is laid on the floor. For laying ecowool, a special blowing installation is used.


The thermal insulation layer is applied completely, without leaving even the slightest gaps. Ecowool contains a large volume of air, so a layer of 250-300 millimeters is sufficient. When performing insulation, it should be remembered that shrinkage occurs over time. of this material. Therefore, a layer of ecowool is applied with a margin of 40-50 millimeters.

Then the insulation must be moistened with water or a solution. It is prepared from 200 grams of PVA glue and a bucket of water. The broom is moistened in the solution and the cotton is well moistened. After drying, lignin forms on the heat-insulating layer - a crust that prevents the insulation from moving.

Which method of attic insulation to choose from the options described above depends on the specific situation.

Preface. The attic serves to protect the house from cold, moisture and scorching rays of the sun. In addition, heat escapes from the house to a greater extent through the attic. Therefore, the question is “what is the best way to insulate an attic in a private house?” - the owner decides first. We will also look at the issue of insulating an attic in a private house with our own hands in this article and show a video lesson from the Isover company.

How to insulate the attic floor of a private house

Often the attic, due to its disorganization, remains unused. But it is from the attic that you can make great room rest or bedroom, if you choose the insulation wisely and equip the attic for living space yourself. You can solve these issues yourself, or you can invite a team of builders to insulate the attic wooden house, as well as ventilation devices attic floor will be able to offer several options.

The gables and attic floor are insulated using various types insulation materials. But more often, three types of insulation are used to insulate the attic. Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each:

– Organic derivatives (polyurethane foam);
– Insulation based on mineral wool;
– Bulk insulation such as expanded clay.

Let's figure out what is the best way to insulate the attic of a private house

Insulation of attic with polyurethane foam (PPU)

Polyurethane foam is the most popular insulation for roofs, gables and attic floors. Among its advantages is low thermal conductivity with small thickness. Its use is especially relevant here, because the load on supporting structures is reduced and a significant part of the space in your attic is saved.

PPU is applied by spraying, which creates a monolithic structure that perfectly protects the home from cold and moisture, and also prevents heat from escaping from the house. Polyurethane foam does not absorb moisture and is resistant to mold, preventing the penetration of insects and rodents.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam increases the strength of the entire roof due to the creation of a single sprayed structure, without gaps or cracks. Also, polyurethane foam has high strength and wear resistance - its service life exceeds 30-40 years. PPU does not require the creation of moisture and vapor barrier, since it itself perfectly performs the functions of its moisture protection.

Insulation of house floors with mineral wool

Mineral wool is suitable for insulating attic floors and attic floors, as well as for insulating walls and roofs. However, insulation with mineral wool implies the creation of external wind and moisture protection using waterproofing. Mineral wool has a structure that perfectly allows steam to pass through, so on the room side the insulation must be protected with hydro- and vapor barrier.

Mineral wool is laid in the form of rolls or mats. Typically, mineral wool is laid between the rafters, and on the floor - between the joists. Inevitably, seams form between fragments of material and structures. They must be thoroughly foamed and sealed with adhesive tape. For middle zone Russia requires a layer of insulation of at least 200 mm.

Mineral wool has considerable weight - on support pillars and ceilings the load increases significantly. Therefore, before insulating the attic with this material, you should make sure of the reliability load-bearing structures and roofs. You ask - is this all that can be used to insulate an attic? How were attic floors insulated before the invention of polyurethane foam and mineral wool?

Insulation of the attic floor of a house with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a bulk insulation material; it is perfect for insulating attic floors because it creates a ventilated space while retaining heat. Expanded clay is lightweight, safe and environmentally friendly in terms of flammability. Thanks to the manufacturing technology, expanded clay is strong and durable, resistant to moisture, high and low temperatures.

Expanded clay varies in granule size. Attic insulation with expanded clay is often carried out in the floor area. From the inside, expanded clay needs a vapor barrier coating. The material needs a frame, and this “eats up” part of the attic space. A special “box” is usually created on the floor, into which expanded clay is poured, and a wooden floor is laid on top.

More often, insulation with expanded clay and insulation of the attic with sawdust is complemented by mineral wool or polyurethane foam, especially for horizontal surfaces. You shouldn’t choose just one option to insulate an attic in a private home – you should wisely combine materials. For horizontal surfaces it is better to use bulk insulation; they are cheaper and more convenient to install.

Insulation of attic floors with sawdust and polystyrene foam

Sawdust insulation can be used as one of the methods of attic insulation. But this method is no longer in demand today as before. The main disadvantage is the flammability of the material, which is not suitable for the roof of a house. Insulating an attic with polystyrene foam is easy to implement, but it also has a significant drawback - a fire hazard and the release of toxins during combustion.

Comparison table for thermal conductivity of materials


Video: how to insulate an attic in a private house

Insulation of the attic floor concerns to a greater extent cold rooms that are not used as residential ones, that is, with uninsulated roofing system And natural ventilation. In such cases, the attic floor becomes a kind of boundary between heat and cold, where the likelihood of condensation moisture forming is especially high. It’s interesting that you can easily handle such a responsible job yourself.

Why do you need to insulate your attic?

To install the roof slope, you need to adhere to a certain angle of inclination. It is formed between the rafters and the floor beams located on the upper part of the walls of the house. They form the floor of the attic. For technical work A boardwalk is installed underneath them.

Timely insulation of the attic floor of a house is necessary for the following:

  • Reducing heat losses through the upper ceiling. Warm air rises, so the ceiling of the top floor of the house should be insulated as much as possible from the air of an unheated attic. Good thermal insulation allows you to maintain a temperature in living areas around the dew point. The result of any violation will be condensation formed on the ceiling, and in just a few weeks there will be a need to repair it.
  • Waterproofing. The correct configuration of the heat-insulating layer implies mandatory installation waterproofing materials. If a roof leak occurs, moisture should not penetrate into the living room.
  • The temperature difference in the areas where ceilings and walls meet becomes a decisive factor for the occurrence of mold and microscopic fungi - the causative agents of various allergic diseases.


In essence, this is the arrangement of a durable and durable coating made of thermal insulation material with low thermal conductivity.

Attention

Material of dubious quality or non-compliance with technology can lead to tragic consequences.

Requirements for attic insulation

Insulation of the attic floor of a house, its quality, significantly affects not only heat loss, but also the durability of the rafter system and roof covering. Water vapor from internal warm rooms diffuse intensively into the attic, but, as is known, in order for the insulation to provide the calculated thermal insulation efficiency, it must be dry. Therefore, it is protected from humidification by warm air vapor by laying vapor-proof material on the “warm” side.

Good vapor and heat insulation, in addition to thermal protection, increases durability roofing structure. Indeed, in the absence of a vapor barrier, water vapor penetrates through the ceiling into the attic, condenses from the attic side on the surface of the roof covering and flows down onto the rafters. As a result metal coatings and parts corrode and collapse wooden rafters and roofing pie.

The thermal insulation properties of the structure are also reduced due to a violation of the tightness of the vapor barrier layer.

Ventilating it through vents: ridge, eaves, as well as slotted and dormer windows helps to dry the layer and remove moisture from the attic space. To ensure optimal ventilation intensity, the total area of ​​ventilation openings should be about 0.2–0.5% of the attic floor.

Properly carried out work prevents the intensive formation of icicles on the roof. After all, how do icicles appear? If it is poorly insulated, the heat passing through it begins to warm up the roof, melting the snow lying on it. The resulting water, flowing down the roof, freezes and turns into icicles.

Insulation of the attic floor is almost always carried out not from the side of the living space, but from the attic floor. Performed in several ways. The choice of technology depends on constructive solution structure and insulation used.

Insulation of beam floors

An option for retaining heat in such a structure is between the beams. Usually, their height is enough for this, but if there is not enough, you can fill a block on top. The ceiling from below is covered with molded material, say, clapboard or sheets of plasterboard, and the attic subfloor covering is laid on top of the beams: sheets of plywood, OSB boards, MDF, etc.

The insulation must be laid on a layer of special vapor barrier or polyethylene film.

On a note

If the material is foil, then lay it down with the shiny side.

The gap between the beams is then filled with insulation of the required thickness. It is recommended to lay an additional layer of insulation on top of the beams, this will help avoid “cold bridges” and reduce possible heat loss

If high-quality, well-processed timber is used for the beams, then the finishing, say, massive board, laid directly on the beams. The insulation is placed between them, and the attic floor covering is laid on top. This technology is quite common in houses made of rounded logs or timber.

Lightweight fibrous materials are blown air currents, drafts, that is, heat is removed from them. These troubles, of course, can be avoided if protection is provided with windproof, vapor-permeable materials. Thus, the thermal protection of the attic is improved. Moreover, the insulation is protected from moisture droplets. Let's say the roof has minor damage and minor leaks.

The insulation must be protected from the wind and from the eaves side. For this, slabs of high-density mineral wool or a wooden board left on edge are usually used.

Partial penetration of thermal insulation onto the external wall will ensure complete heat retention of the house.

What insulation materials are most often used

The installation technology is practically no different from the traditional floor-mounted one for a living space. It is important to choose the right material for making the heat insulator. IN Lately Most often, attic floor insulation is done with mineral wool.

Why mineral wool?

This is a heat-insulating material made from basalt rocks of volcanic origin. They undergo heat treatment in a special oven drum type. During this process, the molten mass swells and stretches into fibers. To form a dense material, they are processed with special binding materials.

As a result, a material with unique properties is formed, which is successfully used to insulate attic floors. For an objective analysis, it can be compared with other types of heat insulators - and.

  • Thermal insulation. The heat transfer coefficient for mineral wool is 0.035 W/m*K. For foam plastic it is slightly higher - 0.04 W/m*K. Expanded clay has the worst performance – 0.4 W/m*k.
  • Hygroscopicity. Foam plastic does not allow moisture to pass through, so if you insulate the joints during installation, you do not need to use an additional waterproofing layer. Mineral wool is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture. But this does not lead to its swelling. Expanded clay also slightly absorbs moisture.
  • Flammability. In this plan basalt insulationperfect option. It does not burn, and its structure melts when exposed to a temperature of 700°C. This quality is very important - a chimney passes through the attic, the surface temperature of which can reach high values. Polystyrene foam, when burned, releases substances harmful to humans.

Mineral wool can be used to insulate almost any surface, even uneven ones. It is produced in soft slabs or rolls. It is advisable to use a material that has a metallized heat-reflecting surface. Mineral wool is cut using an ordinary knife. Place it tightly between the beams, without jamming, without gaps. This is an inexpensive, but durable and effective option.

The work requires some precautions: glasses, gloves, and those with allergies are advised to use respirators.

The layers are laid in the same sequence:

  • vapor barrier;
  • mineral wool;
  • vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane.

The floor film is spread overlapping, and the joints must be either glued or secured through wooden slats staples using a construction stapler. The thickness of the layer is selected based on thermal engineering standards for each specific region.

On a note

Insulating and soundproofing the floor with cotton wool materials is considered the simplest and most effective solution.

Stone wool

Mineral wool slabs today are often replaced with stone wool. Unlike mineral wool, which is often made from low-grade slag-basalt using bitumen binders, stone wool is an environmentally friendly material.

This insulation is distinguished by excellent characteristics - both technical and operational. Unique internal structure stone wool: chaotic arrangement of fibers provides an effective thermal conductivity of 0.036-0.045 W/m*K. It significantly exceeds the insulation of its class in these indicators, provides excellent protection against temperature changes and guarantees microclimatic comfort.

Thermal insulation of tiled floors

The principle of prefabricated insulation reinforced concrete slabs or monolithic floors similar to the same process in the case of beam type. True, since the vapor permeability of reinforced concrete slabs is quite low, performing a vapor barrier on the “warm” side is not necessary. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated taking into account the type of supporting slab. A tiled floor with a flat surface can bear a large load.

How best to insulate

Let's start with the fact that you can install wooden beams on the slabs and place insulation between them. These can be backfill materials or mats of various types.

Installation technology

To install mineral wool, you will need to first prepare the attic space. To do this, you should remove all unnecessary things from there. The surface of the subfloor is cleaned of dust and dirt. If this wood flooring– It is recommended to install a layer of waterproofing.

It is best to use rolled polyethylene foam for this. In addition to thermal insulation properties, this floor insulation film has almost zero moisture absorption. A slight thickness (2-4mm) will not affect the increase in the insulation layer.

It is important to choose the right thickness of basalt wool - it should not exceed the height of the logs, taking into account the waterproofing layer. Models with a thickness of 50 mm and a density of up to 30 kg/m³ are often used.

The installation technology consists of the following stages of work.

  • Preparatory work. Before installation, you need to insulate the chimney pipe. This is necessary to prevent direct contact of its surface with the heat insulator. The best option is to make a small circular masonry of refractory bricks around the pipe.

  • Installation of insulation on the floor should be carried out only after installing thermal insulation on the inner surface of the roof slope. This additional measure will significantly improve the thermal energy conservation rate not only of the attic space, but of the entire house as a whole.
  • Installation of waterproofing protection. As mentioned above, it is best to use polyethylene foam film for waterproofing the attic. It should be located on the entire surface of the subfloor, including on the floor beams. The joints are insulated using special tape.

For fastening, you can use double-sided duct tape, but cannot be used construction stapler or nails. This may lead to seal failure.

  • Installation of heat insulator. Proper insulation the floor of a cold attic begins with calculating the amount of material. The main indicators are total area rooms and the distance between beams. The latter is necessary to select the optimal insulation model. The width of standard slabs is 600 mm.

If the distance between the ceiling elements is greater, you need to use a rolled type of mineral wool. Depending on the manufacturer, its width can reach 1 m.

Having calculated the required amount of insulation, you can begin its installation.

Roll material is installed from the roof. The edge of the heat insulator should extend slightly onto the surface of the slope - this will help to avoid the appearance of gaps between the different layers of the heat-insulating layer.

The material is pressed tightly to the floor surface. It does not require additional fastening. When the entire surface between the beams is insulated, the roll is cut using a knife.

The rest of the attic floor is installed using the same scheme. After this, technological wooden flooring can be installed on top of the beams. It can be regular boards, the thickness of which will support the weight of an adult.

Backfilling of thermal insulation material

Backfilling of insulation can be done without installing lags. Expanded clay or slag is poured in a layer of 25–30 cm, leveled and filled with a thin layer of screed. It is recommended to stick roofing felt onto the slabs.

It is possible to insulate without floor joists using rigid insulation. Foam glass is considered the most effective, but also expensive. Sometimes foam concrete is used, however, it is somewhat heavy and the estimated height of its layer should be approximately 40 cm. In this case, a screed is not used.

Proper insulation of the attic floor is the main factor in maintaining heat in the house. It is important to follow the order of installation of all materials of the thermal insulation layer. You should also worry about operational safety - be sure to install a protective structure around the chimney pipe.

When insulating a house, you must definitely pay attention to the laws of physics. According to them, the air heated in the rooms will rise to the ceiling. If the attic is not insulated enough, the heat will escape outside, and this whole process can be called heat loss.

In order not to heat the street and retain more heat in the house, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. If you still don’t know whether it’s worth doing this work, then you should take into account that 25 to 40% goes through the roof. This data is especially relevant for houses with cold roofs.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling will perform three functions at once, which are necessary to create a comfortable microclimate. The material will soundproof, which will keep the house quiet during wind and rain. IN winter period insulation will eliminate heat loss and through which heated air can freely escape outside. Thermal insulation is also needed in the summer heat, because with its help you can create a barrier against heated air. Even in the hottest weather, the inside of the house will remain cool.

Material selection

If you are planning to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, then you need to understand the variety of materials. The insulation option you choose should be able to withstand a wide range of temperatures ranging from -30 to +30 °C. It shouldn't freeze low temperatures and highlight harmful substances when heated. It is important to purchase fire-resistant thermal insulation. This is true for electrical wiring.

It is better if the insulation is moisture resistant so that it does not lose its properties when wet. It should not cake quickly in order to fulfill its purpose for as long as possible. Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic can be carried out using rolls, slabs or this is true for a floor made of wooden beams. Whereas if you have to work with concrete slabs, then you should purchase bulk or slab materials.

Today the following are produced as mats and slabs:

  • Styrofoam;
  • seaweed;
  • mineral wool;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • straw.

Concerning roll insulation, then they are offered for sale in the following varieties:

  • stone wool;
  • mineral wool;
  • glass wool;
  • algae ladders.

When choosing bulk materials for insulating the ceiling of a cold attic, you may prefer:

  • expanded clay;
  • reed;
  • straw;
  • buckwheat tyrsa;
  • ecowool;
  • sawdust;
  • slag;
  • foam granules.

Features of insulation with mineral wool

Using basalt wool

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and acts as optimal option for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic. The fibers of this material are more flexible and therefore not so brittle. They are well compressed into mats that have sufficient strength.

When deciding to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic with basalt wool, you have at your disposal a material that copes well with the impact external factors, so can be laid from the side unheated room. Insulation is sold in slabs or rolls, which can have different densities. Sometimes there is a foil layer on one side, which can enhance the insulating effect, because the heat will be reflected into the room.

About the dangers of mineral wool

All mineral wools have one common drawback, which is expressed in a binder consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins. During operation, they are constantly released into the air, which can be hazardous to human health. Therefore, this thermal insulation cannot be considered completely environmentally safe. Stacked basalt wool on the same principle as mineral.

Use of extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene, which is also called polystyrene foam, is not very dense material. It can be used when the floor is made of beams and joists. Extruded polystyrene foam is stronger and denser than regular foam. Before laying it, the surface is leveled.

There is no need to lay a vapor barrier on the warm side of the floor, because concrete plates have almost no vapor permeability. Insulating the concrete floor of a cold attic involves laying a vapor barrier film. The next layer is insulation boards, which are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The joints are filled with polyurethane foam. As soon as it dries and hardens, the canvases are filled with concrete mortar up to a thickness of 6 cm. After the screed has dried, it can be used as a floor. Flooring can be laid on the surface.

Using penoplex

If you insulate the attic, this will not only increase the service life of the rafter system, but also roofing, and will also increase the level of thermal protection of residential premises under the attic. Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic with penoplex foam has replaced other technologies that were used quite widely in construction. IN in this case We are talking about the use of glass wool, expanded clay and sea grass.

Modern choice - “Penoplex panel”

In rural areas, the floor of an unheated attic is still insulated with clay and wood shavings. Today we offer for sale the Penoplex panel, which is specially designed for cold attics. If you neglect the work on thermal insulation of the room above the living space, this may cause the insulation to get wet, which occurs due to condensation. Sometimes, under appropriate conditions, the roof structure begins to collapse altogether, which is especially important when there is constant dampness.

Should I use metal fasteners?

When the attic floor is not insulated, icicles and frost constantly form. Large heat losses were mentioned above; they are caused by a weak level of thermal protection. When developing a scheme for insulating the ceiling of a cold attic using penoplex, you must take into account the features of how the ceiling units will be connected to the thermal insulation. The manufacturer does not recommend the use of metal fasteners, because they contribute to the formation of cold bridges, which reduces the level of thermal protection.

To create a heat-insulating cake, a leveling screed is laid on the floors. Next, a vapor barrier in the form of polyethylene is laid. The next layer will be penoplex. We should not forget about the presence of a separating layer in the form of polyethylene. On last stage a cement-sand screed is poured.

Insulating the ceiling of a cold attic may involve working with sheet material in the form of plywood or OSB. In this case, a vapor barrier, wooden beams and penoplex insulation are laid on the surface. You can cover it with sheet material in the form of gypsum fiber board or fiber board.

Finally

Insulating a cold attic allows you to create a boundary between cold and heat. Due to the formation of condensation in the attic floor area, appropriate conditions arise that can contribute to significant heat loss. Proper insulation of the floor allows you to create a barrier with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

For comfortable operation of the building, it is necessary that the attic floor be well insulated to prevent the temperature of the ceiling surface from dropping below the dew point. Otherwise, moisture spots will certainly appear on the ceiling and walls, which will only worsen appearance rooms, but will also cause mold growth and the development of fungi, which are difficult to get rid of. Therefore, increased demands are placed on the thermal protection of the attic floor.

In accordance with the standards, the heat transfer resistance for the attic floor must be no less than next value: Ro = 4.15 m 2 °C/W. Attic floor country house insulated with slabs of mineral (basalt) or glass wool. Insulation boards must be laid in the spaces between ceiling beams or on floor slabs. Mineral wool is laid on a vapor barrier layer or on a plastic film.

Foil thermal insulation material is laid with the shiny side down. The space between the beams is filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. To reduce heat loss through cold bridges, another layer of thermal insulation is laid on top of the beams.

To reduce heat loss from lightweight fiber insulation due to drafts, it is protected with vapor-permeable windproof material. The use of such material allows you to increase the thermal protection of the attic floor and protect the insulation from getting wet if drops of moisture get on it (in case of damage to the roof or leaks).

From the eaves, the insulation layer should also be protected from the wind by high-density mineral wool slabs or boards that are installed on the edge.

An attic or attic space divided into compartments by partitions can be insulated in different ways.

  • The first method: if the attic is non-residential, then only the floors – the ceiling of the building – should be insulated.
  • The second method: if the attic has an attic, then you need to insulate the roof, in addition to the floors.

To insulate the roof of the attic and rooms, the following are usually used:

  1. Construction felt.
  2. Mineral wool in various designs.
  3. Styrofoam.
  4. Polyurethane foam.
  5. Basalt, glass wool, ecowool.

Floors in the attic can be insulated with the following materials:

  1. Construction felt, mineral wool, glass wool.
  2. Foam silicate slabs.
  3. Expanded clay, slag, ash, sawdust, straw, reeds.

Before insulating the attic, the joints of the floor and roof are checked, the cracks are sealed with tow soaked in lime mortar. You can also use polyurethane foam, silicone adhesives and sealants.

Before carrying out work, all wooden structures are coated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds.

When insulating a roof made of asbestos-cement sheets, special attention should be paid to the gaps that are formed by the waves of asbestos-cement sheets. If there are cracks, they are filled with tow in lime mortar.

Availability is checked protective covers, collars and aprons in places where asbestos-cement sheets adjoin parapets, pipes and walls. The covering elements should be extended onto the protective ceilings by at least 15 cm.

Insulating the attic with various materials

For insulation attic spaces and attic in a private house, different insulation materials are used:

  • expanded polystyrene
  • polyurethane foam
  • expanded clay
  • felt, etc.

The insulation process is the same for all materials, so let’s look at attic insulation using mineral wool as an example.

Before you begin insulating the attic, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. Mineral wool is universal and easy to use, has low thermal conductivity and density, and withstands well high temperature and insensitive to aggressive environments. Mineral wool is also an excellent sound insulator.

Attic slopes can be insulated with slabs and mats made of mineral wool. The slabs are more rigid, and the mats are more elastic; this property helps to lay them better and more densely. Mineral wool mats with foil coating are also used for vapor barrier.

Since the thickness of mineral wool is usually greater than the thickness of the rafters, overlays are made on them to increase the thickness. Also, the rafter system is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic solution.

Mineral wool is laid in the spaces between the rafters on the sheathing and covered with a vapor barrier film. The vapor barrier film is laid overlapping on rafter system. The width of the overlap of the canvas is visible on the film - a line is drawn along the edge of the canvas. The joints of the film are insulated with special glue and adhesive tape.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay should be laid on the attic floor on roofing felt. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is determined by the thermal conductivity of the floor, but in any case, the thickness of the expanded clay should be at least 15 cm, and better - 20-25 cm.

It is known that up to 15% of the heat from a house can escape through the ceiling. Therefore, to reduce heat losses, the ceiling is insulated with expanded clay and other materials. Expanded clay not only retains heat, but also increases sound insulation.

Expanded clay is usually used to insulate concrete floors. To do this, it is covered with a layer of 200-250 mm, and a cement screed up to 50 mm thick is poured on top. The screed will serve as the floor.

The cement-sand mortar for the screed must be of a dense consistency so that it does not flow into the expanded clay backfill.

Insulation with mineral wool

  1. Mineral wool should be laid from the farthest point of the attic.
  2. The insulation must be cut on a hard surface.
  3. Beams, pipes, ventilation shafts, etc. should be covered with insulation.
  4. Mineral wool should be laid in a layer of at least 25 cm.

When working with mineral wool, it is necessary individual means protection. These include safety glasses, rubber gloves, a respirator and clothing with long sleeve. Do not work near open food or drinking water. Contact of mineral wool on the skin causes irritation and itching.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The attic is insulated with polyurethane foam by spraying onto the partitions, roof, gables and attic floors, therefore, the thermal insulation layer is obtained without seams and joints, that is, a monolithic vapor-tight layer is obtained.

Polyurethane foam has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer is several times smaller than the layer of mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The use of polyurethane foam increases the usable area of ​​the attic space.

An attic insulated by spraying a layer of polyurethane foam is not affected by humidity, condensation does not form on the walls, because polyurethane foam retains warm air inside. Moisture does not pass through polyurethane foam and cannot settle on a cold roof.

Floor insulation with sawdust is used only for non-residential attics, since when walking the sawdust will gradually become compacted, which will lead to the appearance of cracks on concrete screed. The most common recipe for a solution using sawdust for insulating an attic floor:

  1. Ten buckets of small sawdust.
  2. One bucket of cement, grade no less than 300.
  3. One bucket of fluff lime.
  4. Ten liters of water with antiseptic. It could be boric acid copper sulfate, laundry soap.

The volume of water varies depending on the moisture content of the sawdust. The finished sawdust solution is laid in layers 20-25 cm thick and compacted. All building materials used in the walls of the house must be vapor permeable. That is, you cannot use roofing felt, polyethylene, roofing felt and other materials that do not allow moisture to pass through.

When insulating, the layer of sawdust on top is covered with panels made of plywood, fiberboard or boards. The thickness of the sawdust layer on the walls should be at least 15 cm, on the ceilings and on the floor - at least 25 cm. When insulating the floor, sawdust is placed on top cement strainer 5-10 cm thick.