Insulated floor in a wooden house. How and with what to insulate a wooden floor from below: advantages, materials used, technologies

In any structure, the floor is, as a rule, the most problematic part, since the penetration of cold air masses through it is quite likely with well-insulated walls. They won't help solve the problem, no matter how great heating system, nor carpeting. Wooden floors are more vulnerable than others.

The most logical solution would be proper insulation floor using special materials, but first of all it is worth studying the structural features of wooden flooring.

Peculiarities

Even correct styling The durability of floorboards without cracks and gaps disappears over time due to the nature of the wood structure. The boards can dry out and heat loss is inevitable. Up to 30% of heat escapes through a floor that has not been reconstructed, so It is necessary to insulate a wooden floor, but it is worth remembering the peculiarities of this work.

A wooden floor does not consist of boards alone; it has a more complex structure. The base of the floor is logs, which are wooden blocks. Either a subfloor, consisting of untreated boards, plywood, chipboard, and is the basis for finishing coatings (laminate, parquet), or a finished floor, the basis of which consists of milled boards, is attached to them.

To make the floor comfortable, we use different kinds insulation, but for normal operation insulation alone is not enough - it is necessary to use layers of waterproofing.

Their presence is necessary, since excessive moisture in the space promotes the formation of fungus and the development of insects that destroy the wooden structure.

Insulated rooms

Most often, wooden floors are present in private buildings, and therefore it is important to know how to insulate a wooden floor in village house. And this depends on many factors. First of all, this is the time of construction of the structure. If the house is new, then you need to wait the time necessary for the wood structure to shrink (6-7 months). If the house is old, then after dismantling the old coverings, it is necessary to pay attention to the wear of the joists, removing even partially rotten logs.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation in a village house, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​the room and the height of the ceiling, the type of surface, the placement of the floor structure, the temperature and humidity of the room, the load, and, of course, the purpose of the house. Each of these factors directly affects the choice of material.

The ceiling height in a village house for effective and economical heating should be within 2.35-2.50 m. The height of the room after laying the insulation should not be less than 2.35 m, otherwise the space will not be very comfortable, and higher than 2.5 m to avoid increasing heating costs.

The thickness of the insulation also depends on the purpose of the house. For houses used in summer period, you can get by with insulation 5 cm thick, but for a house that will be used constantly, it is better to purchase material at least 20 cm thick.

The choice of material is directly dependent on the floor design, as this affects the installation method. There are several types of flooring:

• The flooring is laid either at a short distance from the ground or on a special bedding. Both floorings were laid without ventilation.
• The flooring is located above a basement or cellar with high humidity.
• The flooring is located on logs; below there is a pile foundation with a grating.
• Laying the flooring along the joists; below there is a ventilated basement with good air ventilation due to the presence of vents.

When choosing a material for village house it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the insulation itself. In addition to the thickness, great importance have characteristics such as environmental Safety, fire resistance, insulation service life.

To insulate the floor in a toilet located in a private wooden building, it is worth not only taking into account the above characteristics of the insulation, but also taking care of waterproofing the underground space of this room, as well as considering a ventilation system.

You can also insulate wooden floors in your apartment. The choice of material and installation method will depend on the floor of the apartment. For the first floor where there is soil nearby or basement, insulation will be both from the side of the apartment and from the basement, if there is one. To insulate the floor on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th floor, the material is laid only from the side of the apartment.

In a private house, insulating the floor on the 2nd floor makes sense only if one or the other floor is not heated, or more warm materials compared to the second, resulting in a temperature difference.

Floor installation

Floor insulation can be done different methods. The choice of method depends on the initial condition of the coatings, the location or absence of utility rooms.

The simplest, most reliable and most often used method is the insulation method using joists. It is suitable for insulating floors both for private wooden structures and for floors located in apartments located on the 1st floor. IN in this case the principle is that The coating is divided into fine and rough.

Insulation of a wooden floor occurs due to the sequential laying of various materials.

The rough layer consists of wooden boards joined to joists. At the bottom of the boards there are cranial bars running along each joist. The logs themselves are bars that are laid over the entire surface of the floor at a certain distance from each other, usually from 0.6 to 1 meter. They can be attached to the foundation of the building, embedded in the base of the structure, mounted on load-bearing beams or fixed on erected columns made of durable material(brick, concrete, stone).

The vapor barrier layer is laid on the subfloor and on top of the joist. It is only needed when using a certain type of insulation, and the insulation itself is placed between the joists. The gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer must be at least 4-5 cm. This value ensures proper ventilation of the space. If there is not enough height, counter battens are placed on the joists.

If the building is located in an area where there is high groundwater, then instead of a vapor barrier layer, you need to lay a waterproofing layer that will prevent the insulation from getting wet. In addition, some types of insulation do not require the presence of a vapor barrier layer.

Get rid of high humidity Installing special vents outside the house, installed in increments of 4-5 m, and an exhaust pipe will also help. The presence of these elements promotes good air circulation and increases the efficiency of floor insulation work.

You can insulate a wooden floor without dismantling the old covering using linoleum on jute or felt base, but it’s better not to use it as independent species insulation, but as an addition to warm floor. This durable and easy-to-install coating performs the function of waterproofing.

Another method of insulation without dismantling is liquid foam, which is driven under the floor through holes with a special device. But when using this method, it is worth remembering that the space is filled unevenly, and therefore this option is not perfect.

How to choose the right insulation

All types of materials of natural or artificial origin used for insulating wooden floors, are divided into:

• fibrous;
• foamed;
• backfill;
• cellular stone.

Any insulation has both advantages and disadvantages.

The most common and affordable material is mineral wool. Insulating the floor with mineral wool has many advantages. This material, in addition to its direct purpose, has very high noise insulation properties, has good fire resistance, and has low thermal conductivity. This eco-friendly material is easy to install and has different shapes release (rolls, mats), which is important to consider when choosing.

A type of mineral wool is insulation brand "Isover", produced by Finnish manufacturers for more than 20 years. Basis of this material is fiberglass. Izover insulation will protect a wooden structure from the development of fungi, bacteria, and invasion of rodents and insects.

But this material has its drawbacks. First of all, they include poor moisture resistance, so it is better to use mineral wool in combination with a waterproofing layer.

Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam does not allow water to pass through easily. This lightweight, non-toxic material is not subject to deformation due to exposure to temperature changes. Having even a small thickness, it does not lose its good thermal insulation properties. But it also has some disadvantages. The fragility of the material comes first, so the fitting of the material must be done as accurately as possible.

Durable polystyrene foam has improved characteristics. In addition to high noise insulation and low thermal conductivity, the material is distinguished by increased strength. Installation with extruded polystyrene foam, in addition to insulation, will protect the house from rodent invasion and the development of mold fungi.

Vapor-tight roll materials isolon or penofol are small in thickness and therefore cannot provide the required degree of insulation. Most often these materials are used together with others. Penofol or isolon is used to lay the rough surface of the floor, using it as a waterproofing layer on which the insulation is laid.

Bulk materials used as insulation, such as expanded clay and sawdust, are used for structures without basements.

Insulating the floor with sawdust makes it possible to save money, since sawdust has a low cost. In addition, the form this insulation allows you to fill even the most difficult to reach places. Very often, sawdust is combined with other substances to enhance thermal insulation, antiseptic and other properties.

The floor is insulated with expanded clay if there is close proximity to the ground. This lightweight material It has a porous structure, which, in addition to thermal insulation, provides good sound insulation. It is not afraid of temperature changes, and even an inexperienced person can handle the installation.

Insulation technology

After analyzing the floor structure, it is necessary to consider best solutions for a specific room. There is a certain sequence of floor insulation, suitable both for insulation with joists and without them.

First, it is necessary to dismantle the old covering, if the insulation process takes place in an old room, and lay or replace the logs. Then proceed to laying the rough covering, on which a waterproofing or vapor barrier layer is laid. Its edges should extend 15-20 cm onto the walls, and the joints should be taped.

High-quality insulation of the floor in wooden house, you will simultaneously make the room more comfortable to live in and reduce heating costs. Familiarize yourself with the available range of thermal insulation materials, study the three main schemes for performing the work, choose the option that suits you and get started.

What material to choose for insulation?

Before you start studying the properties of existing insulation materials, remember: it is recommended to carry out thermal insulation work only after the wood shrinks, i.e. no earlier than six months after the construction of the structure. Otherwise, shrinkage may damage the insulation.

When choosing a material for floor insulation, you need to pay attention to the following insulation characteristics:

• thermal conductivity;
• resistance to moisture;
• installation method;
• thickness;
• fire resistance;
• life time;
• environmental friendliness;
• price.

In case of wooden structures, characteristics such as fire resistance and service life are of greatest importance.

Excellent material for floor insulation.

Advantages:

• low thermal conductivity;
• good fire resistance. Mineral wool successfully prevents the spread of flame;
• vapor permeability. Mineral wool “breathes,” which is very important when it is used to insulate wooden surfaces;
• ease of arrangement;
• good environmental friendliness.

It is produced in the form of mats and rolls, which gives you the opportunity to choose.

Main flaw mineral wool – low resistance to water. When in contact with moisture, the insulation becomes deformed and loses its quality characteristics Therefore, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the waterproofing layer.

An excellent option for floor insulation in a wooden house. It can only be used after the wood has gone through the shrinkage process. made on the basis of gypsum fiber.

Key benefits:

Main flaw– relatively high cost. A twenty-kilogram bag of mixture is enough to insulate no more than 1 m2 of surface.

The material also does not tolerate moisture well. Because of it, it is deformed. Such deformation does not affect the thermal insulation properties of the material in any way, but the finishing flooring may spoil.

Popular material for floor insulation. Advantages the following:

Main flaw– significant shrinkage. In just a year of service, a meter strip of glass wool can decrease by 10-15 cm. As a result, the integrity of the thermal insulation layer is compromised. Disadvantages also include poor resistance to water and not the best thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam

One of the most popular insulation materials. It features an optimal ratio of cost and quality.

The material does not deform under the influence of temperature changes and high humidity. Even with a relatively small thickness (up to 10 cm), polystyrene foam provides high-quality thermal insulation.

Main flaw– fragility. In order for the material to last as long as possible, the arrangement of the insulating “pie” must be done perfectly.

Important! Foam does not allow air to pass through. This may not in the best possible way affect the condition of the wood. Be sure to take this nuance into account.

This has many advantages, including:

• resistance to fire, moisture and temperature changes;
• incredible low performance thermal conductivity;
• high noise insulation properties;
• excellent strength.

Main flaw– relatively high cost.

Find out how to do it by studying step by step instructions, in an article on our portal.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Instructions for carrying out thermal insulation work in different situations

Floor design wooden house can have a wide variety of appearances. Consequently, the procedure for carrying out thermal insulation work will also differ. We present to your attention instructions for insulation in the most common cases.

Due to the limited height of the subfloor, the insulation cannot be fixed from below to the joists. This leads to the need to dismantle the existing flooring, which makes this method the most labor-intensive.

In general, the work is performed in the following sequence.

First step. Remove baseboards and flooring elements. If replacing the decking is not in your plans, work as carefully as possible. For greater convenience, sign the boards to avoid problems during their reassembly.

Second step. Examine the condition of the lag. Dismantle rotten and deformed areas.

In place of the removed elements, install pieces of timber of similar sizes. To fasten parts of the structure, use wooden boards and galvanized screws.

Third step. Attach a support block to the bottom of each joist.

Fourth step. Prepare lumber for arranging the rough flooring. Good fit unedged board. Saw it into pieces 10-20 mm long less step installation of logs - the flooring elements must be laid quite freely.

Fifth step. Assemble the subfloor. There is no need to attach the boards to the support beams.

Sixth step. Cover the flooring and joists vapor barrier material. If the building is located in an area with high groundwater, instead of vapor barrier, lay glassine or roofing material. Lay the insulation with a 10-15 cm overlap on the walls. Tape the joints of individual strips of material with tape.

Seventh step. Install finished floor joists. Lay the selected thermal insulation material.

Eighth step.

Ninth step. Stuff counter battens to create a ventilation gap between the insulation “pie” and the finishing flooring. The recommended gap thickness is 20 mm.

Tenth step. Reinstall the previously removed floorboards or install new flooring.

Insulating the floor above a high cellar

In this case, you can use a trick and insulate it from the cellar side.

First step. Go down to the cellar. Attach a moisture-proofing film to its ceiling.

Second step. Nail thin slats or support beams to the sides of the beams. If the cellar is damp, use a galvanized profile instead of timber.

Third step. Cut the insulation (it is best to use mineral wool) into pieces 20-30 mm wide larger than the pitch for installing the logs. Thanks to the increased width, the insulation slabs will be placed side-by-side and additionally secured.

Fourth step. Place transverse bars onto the previously fixed beam (profile, slats) to maintain the insulating layer.

Fifth step. Attach a waterproofing film to the slats.

Sixth step. Mount finishing coat at your own discretion.

If you want to do it from the living room side, work in a similar order - the “pie” will consist of the same layers.

Arrangement of a double floor

Suitable for rooms with high ceilings. The insulating structure will take up 12-20 cm of usable space.

Work in the following order.

First step. Remove skirting boards, replace damaged wooden ones supporting elements, fill the existing cracks with foam.

Second step. Lock wooden joists in increments of up to 90 cm. The optimal installation step is about 60-70 cm.

Third step. Make sure the top edges of the joists are horizontal. If there are deviations from the horizontal, get rid of excess wood using a plane. In places with insufficient height, place pieces of wood, roofing felt or other suitable material under the beam.

Fourth step. Cover the surface of the base with vapor or moisture insulation material with a 10-15 cm overlap on the walls.

Fifth step. Place the selected insulation in the space between the joists.

Sixth step. Cover the thermal insulation layer with waterproofing film.

Seventh step. Install the flooring elements.

Eighth step. Lay the selected covering and install the skirting boards.

Important! If a wooden house stands on a screw, bored or pile foundation, you need to additionally install windproof material. It is installed on the outside of the heat-insulating layer.

Now you have all the necessary knowledge to self-execution floor insulation in a wooden house.

Good luck!

Video - Floor insulation in a wooden house

When choosing how to insulate a wooden floor in a private home, they proceed, first of all, from financial capabilities. Thus, expanded polystyrene is the most economical option, expanded clay is more expensive, but the most environmentally friendly, and mineral wool is easy to install and unattractive to rodents.

A warm base is the key to a warm floor

Before you start insulating the floor, you need to make sure that the base is thermally and waterproofed. At the same time, we must not forget about ventilation, which will prevent the development of fungi and mold in the underground. Because it destroys wooden base and the floor will last very little.

Insulation of the basement floor

If the house has a basement or ground floor, you need to take care of their insulation and waterproofing. This will prevent the basement from freezing in the winter and keep it cool in the summer. After all, the basement non-residential floor is often used specifically for storing food, and if it is located above the freezing level of the soil, such measures are mandatory. But there is no need to insulate an unheated basement underground.

The basement floor is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, since it is not hygroscopic, unlike ordinary polystyrene foam. The insulation must be laid on waterproofing, such as bitumen and roofing felt. The base is dug out a meter and the EPS is attached to a special glue.

After this, the soil is backfilled layer by layer.

On the ground part of the basement floor, the insulation is laid with glue, and fixed on top with dowels and reinforcing mesh. The final stage is facing the base. The material can be any - from decorative stone to PVC panels. But it is better to choose damage-resistant and moisture-repellent material.

If the base is low, about 50 cm, it is better to fill the space under the subfloor. This option will turn out to be much warmer - there is no cold air under the floor of the house, there is no need to install vents that will have to be closed for the winter.

Backfilling is done with ordinary soil, and the last 10 cm to the floor is filled with sand. Both soil and sand must be compacted separately in a wet state.

It is not economically profitable to fill a higher base. In this case, it will have to be insulated according to the same principle as the ground floor, but organize vents for ventilation that remain open in summer time and close in winter. Special attention should be paid to insulating the basement for a house on a columnar or pile foundation.

Freely “walking” cold wind significantly increases heat loss from the floor.

General features of wooden floor insulation

When the base is in order, you can proceed directly to the floor. Regardless of the stage of work (during the construction process or in an already inhabited house), do-it-yourself insulation includes:

1. Laying or checking and replacing joists.
2. Laying waterproofing on the joists (or under them if the joists are lying on sand).
3. Laying insulation between joists.
4. A layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation.
5. Installation of a counter-lattice for the gap between the finished floor and the vapor barrier.
6. Finished flooring.

For waterproofing, you can use any rolled material - from thick polyethylene to innovative, but expensive, materials.

For vapor barrier, it is best to use foamed polyethylene with an aluminum coating on one side.

This will provide both additional insulation of the floor and prevent condensation from entering the insulation. If the winters are not very cold, sometimes only a layer of polyethylene foam is enough without additional insulation. But it is better to insulate the floor as well as possible, because then you will have to remove the covering again if the insulation is not enough.

The vapor barrier is laid with the “shiny” side facing finished floor. Both hydro- and vapor barriers are laid overlapping with an allowance of at least 10 cm, and the joints are sealed with metallized tape.

Insulation with roll and tile materials

Even at the stage of installing the log, you need to decide what material will be used for insulation. Depending on its width and length, the lag pitch will be selected, between which the insulation is laid very tightly and without gaps.

Ideally, the height of the logs should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but given the need for an air gap between the vapor barrier and the finished wooden floor, you can simply not make a counter-lattice. In this case, the vapor barrier is attached with a construction stapler to the sides of the log so that it lies on the mineral wool without air gap between them.

It is important to remember that the sides of the slabs have different hardness. This type of insulation is installed with the hard side up. For convenience, the desired side is already marked with a blue stripe, so it’s difficult to make a mistake.

It is best to use slabs with corrugated edges - this will provide the best adhesion. Lay the slabs as tightly as possible, starting from the corner. The next row begins with an offset of half the slab. The last slabs must enter with force. Possible cracks are sealed with construction foam.

Insulation with bulk and sprayed materials

There are also more “exotic” ways to insulate floors in a house. For example, sawdust is increasingly used as a natural and environmentally friendly material.

The technology is not very different:

• on the slabs fixed under the joists, a vapor-permeable material is laid, not polyethylene;
• sawdust is poured out between the joists and watered with a weak lime mortar from a watering can;
• As soon as the material dries and settles, the finished floor is laid - no vapor barrier is needed.

But here you need to pay special attention to hydro- and vapor barrier, as well as the dryness of the expanded clay itself. Because of its pores, it is very hygroscopic, but practically does not release moisture. Therefore, if installed incorrectly, expanded clay that has accumulated moisture will only worsen the situation.

Insulating the floor of a house with sprayed materials - polyurethane foam, ecowool or foam insulation - is practically impossible to do on your own, and in some cases it is dangerous. For this you will need special equipment, and buying it for insulation small house extremely unprofitable.

The process of installing a wooden subfloor, its insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier is revealed in detail in the video:

P Before thinking about how to insulate a wooden floor in a house, you need to decide exactly what problems you intend to solve with this, and at the same time think about what problems may arise as a result. Otherwise insulation of wooden floors in the house may turn out to be not only unnecessary, but also harmful. Especially if the problem is being solved insulation of floors in a wooden house.

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Design and operating features of a wooden floor

To better understand what you have to deal with, let's look at the construction of a wooden floor.

The basis for it is wooden beams, the so-called “logs” (these floors are sometimes called “”). Milled boards are placed on the logs in a special way, forming a finishing coating, or a so-called “rough” floor made from unplaned or even uncut boards, artificial materials(plywood, chipboard, OSB). The subfloor serves as the basis for and similar coatings.

An important factor in the normal operation of wooden floors is proper ventilation the floor from below, that is, under the plank covering and between the joists (ventilation of the space under the floor covering). If ventilation is insufficient, over time, due to increased humidity, the tree becomes infected with fungus, and the created microclimate contributes to the appearance of various insects, including wood borers.

For good air circulation, special gutters are even installed on the floor boards below (see Fig. 1).

Places where you need to insulate a wooden floor

Experience in operating buildings suggests that for effective thermal insulation, it is necessary first of all to protect the junction of the floors and the external walls.

If we're talking about about floor insulation in apartment building, often the entire surface requires insulation. For example, below there is an unheated basement, the temperature in which in winter, although maintained above zero (otherwise the sewerage and water supply would freeze), is lower than in the apartment. And a difference of even five degrees is already noticeable losses heat.

Observations, design standards and ordinary common sense will tell you how to insulate a wooden floor exactly where it is needed.

As for how to insulate the floor in a wooden house, it’s more complicated. A wooden house can be chopped and framed, made of timber, or log. Lined and not lined. All these options make their own adjustments. Therefore, in this article we will try to give general principles, and in each specific case, based on them, you need to think through what and how to do here and now.

The insulation is poured or laid between the joists, and there must be at least 4-5 centimeters of gap between the top of the insulation and the bottom plane of the covering for normal ventilation of the subfloor.

Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to lay an insulating carpet that cuts off vapor or liquid (osmotic) moisture (if the base is soil). When using mineral wool insulation, a water barrier is additionally installed on top. That is, a warm “pie” is created into which it is difficult for moisture to penetrate, but from where it easily evaporates through the vapor-permeable waterproofing.

If foam plastics are used for insulation, steam and waterproofing are not done, and the seams between individual slabs, between the insulation and joists (walls) are filled with polyurethane foam.

When insulating the floors of the first floor, when there is soil below or the ceiling of a warm basement, it is enough to lay thermal insulation at the junction of the floor and external walls, making a belt 80-100 centimeters wide. The purpose of the belt is not to insulate the wall, but to provide thermal insulation from the side of the soil that freezes in winter period(see Fig. 2).

Tools for floor insulation in a wooden house (wooden floor)

Insulating a wooden floor in a house does not require a significant set of tools. Cutting foam insulation and vapor and waterproofing films is performed with a mounting knife and ordinary scissors. When working with mineral wool, a knife (rigid and semi-rigid slabs) and large scissors (soft roll insulation) are also used.

Of course, if an already assembled structure is insulated, carpentry tools are required. However, this has a rather indirect relation to the issue of insulation.

In conclusion about the insulation of a wooden floor

So, we have looked at how to insulate a wooden floor. As already mentioned, the question of the need for insulation arises in two cases:

New construction;
shortcomings of the existing floor.

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The temperature in the house determines the level of living comfort. Wooden building It is faster and easier to heat, but heating alone will not be enough. Warmth must be maintained in the house. Good thermal insulation reduces overall heat loss by 25%. Insulating walls without floors is ineffective.

A country house made of wood is environmentally friendly housing, so all used Construction Materials must also meet environmental requirements. Previously, sawdust, wood concrete, and foam plastic were used for this. Modern materials more convenient to install and have greater efficiency. An insulated floor prevents the formation of mold in the house and reduces heating costs.

Choice of insulation

Many materials are used to insulate the floors of a wooden house. The simplest and most inexpensive is expanded clay or sand, which is poured between the rough and finishing coating. They are hygroscopic and protect the boards from rotting, the spread of fungus and provide ventilation. However, bulk non-metallic insulation has its own drawback - over time, their hygroscopicity decreases.

Today on the market you can find many materials for insulating a wooden house. In addition to good thermal insulation, it must meet the basic requirements:

• ecologically pure;
• be safe for the residents of the house;
• long service life.

For insulation, fiberglass, mineral wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, etc. are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

o Mineral wool. It can be slag, stone and glass. The form of release is also varied - plate, roll, mat. Mineral wool has a high density, does not burn, conducts heat poorly and is quite economical. The main disadvantage is considered to be low moisture resistance.

When using mineral wool, you should carefully consider the vapor barrier system and ventilation. The side of the stove that is not covered with foil should be on the bottom.

When purchasing mineral wool, carefully read the composition, since the impregnation often contains substances hazardous to the body. The more saturated the yellow color of the material, the more dangerous it is.

The following are more in demand in construction stores:

• Izovol- a product made from mineral fibers. Distinctive feature- high hydrophobic efficiency in comparison with conventional mineral wool. Additionally, it has low thermal conductivity, is non-flammable, biologically and chemically resistant.
• Rockwool- basalt minute tile. Its peculiarity is that it does not cake, does not lend itself to deformation and shrinkage, like mineral wool. Rockwool resists mechanical stress well. The material is additionally used for sound insulation, since the porous structure absorbs noise well at any frequency. Like Izovol, Rockwool conducts heat poorly, does not burn and is resistant to biological and chemical influences.
• Expanded polystyrene- has a high thermal insulation rate. It is resistant to moisture and does not absorb water, holds its shape well under temperature changes, is durable, environmentally friendly, durable and is not subject to the destructive effects of microorganisms. Expanded polystyrene is easy to process and use.
• Penofol- modern heat insulator. Sold in rolls, it is insulation with a layer of foil. The thickness and weight are small. The base may vary, but in most cases it is penofol (foamed polyethylene). Thermal insulation properties are maintained under high mechanical load. Laying occurs overlapping or butt. The seams must be taped with metallized adhesive tape. Penofol does not require an additional layer of hydro- and vapor barrier, since the foil already performs these functions.
• Ecowool- natural heat insulator made from cellulose. Bind fibers boric acid and lagnin (organic antiseptic). The uniqueness of the material is that it does not absorb water and removes it outside. The composition contains no components hazardous to health. Ecowool is fire- and bio-resistant, absorbs sound well and does not conduct heat. A special sprayer is used for application, but the material consumption then increases by 40%.
• Izolon - new material in construction. With a thickness of 2-10 mm, it insulates well heat and sound, has high moisture resistance, is not subject to rotting and is durable.

For insulation, ordinary sawdust can be used. This heat insulator has been used for many centuries. Natural material Quite cheap and completely safe for the body. Sawdust is often left behind after building a house. This is the most affordable insulation for a wooden house.

Sawdust is added to some building materials:

• sawdust concrete consists of sawdust, cement, sand and water;
• granular heat insulator - sawdust, glue and antiseptic-fire retardant;
• wood concrete - sawdust with cement and chemical additives;
• wood blocks - sawdust, cement and copper sulfate.

Calculation of insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation layer plays an important role. It is calculated individually for each house, taking into account design features, climate and type of insulation. The formula is given in SNiP 02/23/2003:

h = R * A

• R- thermal resistance. It is determined from the tables in the SNiP appendix.
• A- coefficient of thermal conductivity. Each type of insulation has its own. The value is indicated by the manufacturer or can be found in the SNiP tables.

If you need to lay a thin layer of insulation, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam and other materials in mats or rolls. Mats increase strength and elasticity.

Insulation of floors

In a wooden house, thermal insulation can be done different ways. It is important to take into account the purpose of the room, the average temperature and humidity in it, the load on the floor covering, and the minimum thickness of the heat insulator. Good insulation and adherence to technology guarantee success.

To insulate the floor you will need:

• drill;
• hacksaw;
• set of drills;
• level;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• construction knife.

Double floor

For residential premises, the floor is made double, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. For the bottom layer, use a board; its thickness should be more than 20 mm. Since the subfloor does not carry any aesthetic load, a slab or an illicit board is used for it. It is not fastened to the joists.

The sheathing is secured to the base of the floor with self-tapping screws. The lathing can consist of beams 50x50 mm. Next, the bottom layer is nailed to it using nails. Nails should not reach the joists.

Subfloor boards must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics (Snezh, Finesta, Pinotex). The gaps between the boards should not be more than 1 cm. Next, waterproofing is laid on the subfloor.

Experts insist on membrane thermal insulation. The film should allow moisture to drain down. Plastic film or similar materials will create a humid microclimate in the underground, which will cause the boards to rot. When laying the membrane film, provide a smell of 10-15 cm, and seal the joints with construction tape.

After waterproofing, they begin to work on the joists. Any type of insulation is laid between them. It is permissible to combine several types at the same time. The insulation should fill the space tightly, but not protrude into lags.

Previously, expanded clay was used for insulation. Modern materials have better thermal insulation properties.

The insulation is covered with a layer of membrane vapor barrier, and the finished floor is laid.

Insulation by joists

When choosing this method, the logs must be installed in 50 cm increments on the foundation or frame. Boards or a subfloor board are attached to them. Insulation is placed in the free space, which is covered with hydro- and vapor barrier. Then the boards are laid under the finishing floor covering.

The logs do not need to rest on the foundation, but use brick columns for this. The insulation will be mineral wool or polystyrene foam. I collect the entire “pie” according to the sequence described above.

This method allows you to increase the distance between the finished floor and the ground, and the insulation does not experience mechanical stress. Simplicity and efficiency have made insulation using joists the most common.

Construction stages:

• Subfloor flooring. I use a shield or rough board 25x150 mm. It is permissible to take boards from the formwork if they are in good condition. The wood is treated with an antiseptic.

First, wooden logs are laid, leaving a gap of a couple of centimeters to the wall. You can use a T-shaped notch. A cranial beam measuring no more than 50x50 cm is attached to the logs, and shields are attached below.

• Laying insulation. Thermal insulation material is laid between the joists, and the gaps are filled with foam. It is acceptable to use insulation under the subfloor.

Sprayed insulation has good adhesion, has no joints and follows the contour of the surface.

• Vapor barrier layer. Waterproofing is important for wet areas or when using hygroscopic heat insulators (fiberglass, ecowool, mineral wool). For sprayed insulation, this item is omitted.

Waterproofing can be:

1. impregnating;
2. pasting ( polyethylene films, roofing material, PVC membrane, isoplast, glassine);
3. painting

The vapor barrier film is laid over the heat-insulating layer with an overlap of 15 cm. The edges are folded by 10-15 cm and attached to the joists. The joints are sealed with metallized tape.

• Finish floor and finishing. The finishing boards are laid 3-4 cm above the auxiliary base. It is required to ensure natural ventilation. They use special boards 3-4 cm thick and 10-14 cm wide with longitudinal grooves on the bottom side.

The final finish can be painting, varnishing, carpeting, linoleum. Installation is carried out according to the instructions; baseboards are laid along the walls.

Thermal insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floors must be insulated. Expanded clay concrete screed is used. Expanded clay has the form of hollow granules with low thermal conductivity. It's quite light.

For insulation, you can use polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Last fits better thanks to moisture resistance and lack of love from rodents.

The procedure for insulating the floor is as follows:

• a waterproofing layer is laid;
• lay a heat insulator;
• reinforced screed more than 50 mm;
• vapor barrier is laid;
• finishing floor covering.

Ecowool thermal insulation

Ecowool can be used in two ways:

1. Dense compaction of material into the space between the joists. All joints and seams must be pre-sealed with polyurethane foam.
2. Blowing material using special equipment. Ecowool is served under high pressure along the hose. The material can be dry or wet. Lignin is sometimes used to glue fibers together.

Insulating an old floor

After dismantling the old floor, check the safety of the joists. If defects, damage (cracks, rotting) and vibration are detected during mechanical impact they are replaced. The work is similar to roofing. The big disadvantage will be the duration, since you will have to knock out the joists from the concrete.

Again, check the level and fill with concrete. It is important to secure the ends into the mounting sockets using dry gravel. They do not move to a new stage until the concrete has completely hardened.

Subfloor boards are not mounted directly on the joists. The sheathing is installed with small beams, and then boards are placed on them. Nails should not penetrate the thickness of the joist. Experts have different opinions about antiseptic treatment at this stage. But insurance against mold and fungi will not be superfluous, although it will require time and financial costs. Changes in rough field there shouldn't be.

Membranes will help ensure proper waterproofing. It is mounted on the subfloor with the walls reaching the height of the finished floor.

Logs made of 150x50 mm timber are fixed in increments of 100 cm. When installing heavy furniture, the size is increased to 75x150 mm. The gap between the finishing joists and the wall is filled with insulation.

The heat insulator is laid on a waterproofing membrane. A gap of 3 cm is provided to the finished floor level for ventilation. A vapor barrier layer is mounted on the insulation.

The finishing coating is secured with screws or nails. If they are in good condition, you can use old boards.

An alternative method of insulation

If there are no severe winters in the region, then you can insulate a wooden house without traditional materials. Insulation occurs using fiberboard, which is mounted on the finishing flooring or under it. If the slabs are on top, then they are covered with carpet or laminate. Carpet covering and linoleum will increase the effectiveness of insulation.

Important points of thermal insulation

1. When purchasing insulation material, you need to check its quality. Don't be shy about asking for a certificate for verification. Quality materials restore their shape after mechanical impact.
2. The main selection criterion thermal insulation material residential properties should be about health safety, not cost. Remodeling a floor is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.
3. Waterproofing of insulation must be organized on both sides (internal and external).
4. It is worth providing a compensation gap between the insulation and the finished floor.
5. Can be applied to rough flooring metal mesh which will protect the floor from rodents.
6. Between the rough and finished floors, you can organize a heating system using a special heating cable.
7. The floor of a wooden house must be well ventilated.
8. To increase thermal insulation, the foundation and basement are insulated.

A securely equipped floor in a wooden house is a criterion for heat preservation. It is not difficult to insulate it yourself, the main thing is to choose the right material. The most popular method is dual system floor.