Bonsai creation technique. Moyogi: curved vertical

Midori-tsumi– pinching the growth point. By shortening the shoot, you provoke the laying of new buds below the pinching site, thus obtaining dense paws with many branches. Depending on what type of tree you are working with, the work time varies:

• for deciduous trees - pinching begins during the period of active growth of shoots and lasts until mid-summer. The remaining branch has 2-3 leaves (buds). They finish work at the end of July so that the regrown branches are prepared for winter;
• for conifers - pinching begins when the branch is in the “candle” mode, but the needles have already moved away from it at an angle of 45 °.

Kiri-modoshi– pruning all shoots from last year to form dense clusters. It is produced at the beginning of sap flow, before the buds open.

Hamu-siri– thinning of needles – used only for pine trees. All the needles from the previous year are plucked out, and the remains are thinned by half or less (depending on how many shoots you want to get).

Fuse-zukuri– special techniques for changing the shape and direction of shoot growth.

For these purposes, the branches are bent in the desired direction to the required angle and fixed.

When bending, the main task is not to damage the tree, so if there is the slightest crack, the bend is reduced and the branch is fixed. Bamboo spacers, soft copper wire, twine, and burlap are used to protect the branches from damage. Care must be taken to ensure that the strapping does not grow into the bark - as soon as the branches thicken, they are tied up. Complete fixation of the branch occurs after 2-3 seasons.

Shitate– barrel bending technique. Such Niwaki styles, like mogi, kengai, shakai, require that the barrel is not located in a vertical plane. To give shape, use spacers, tension, bending to the ground, followed by fixation with pegs.

You can form a trunk in two ways:

• setting the desired direction for a young seedling from year to year (for example, planting a plant at an angle);
• changing the shape of the rootstock in a mature tree (usually used to strengthen existing bends).

There is a risk that the unnatural position of the trunk may lead to the root system not holding it, so the guy wires are installed as follows:

Where to start?

We advise a beginning bonsai artist to first practice on the trees and shrubs growing on the site. You can form nivaki from either a young or a long-growing tree. They begin work in early spring, before the buds open. At this time, the shape of the tree, natural bends, strong and weak shoots are clearly visible. For bonsai, choose a healthy plant that can survive the stress caused by drastic interference in its life.

Operating procedure:

• cut off all diseased, broken and dry branches of a tree or bush;
• choose the style in which the nivaki will be formed, paying special attention to the age of the tree and the natural shape of the trunk;
• decide where the front side of the composition will be, mark the branches of the first order (bases) and the topmost branch crowning the nivkai.

Skeletal branches should emphasize the levels as much as possible - for this they are placed in a plane parallel to the ground, using the techniques described above.

After this, all excess shoots are removed, leaving on the skeletal branches those that will later form the crown. If necessary, install stretch marks to direct the growth of shoots in the desired direction.

The next stage begins only next year:

Examples of elementary niwaki

Jasmine. The shrub produces abundant growth, and without corrective pruning, after a few years it has an unsightly, neglected appearance. What can be done? Remove all excess growth, leaving a few of the strongest vertical shoots. Pull them together with soft wire - at the top you will get a compact “cap”, which in the spring will turn into a wonderful white cloud with a delicate aroma.

Spirea. The wildly blooming “Rich Bride” is an excellent material for bonsai. Leaving a few skeletal branches, intertwine them with each other, and cut off all excess to the root. Give the stems the desired height, form the side shoots in the shape of a ball.

Lilac. An ordinary bush can become a garden barefoot masterpiece if you put a little effort into it:

• cut out all the shoots and remove the taproot branches at the root, leaving one, the strongest or most twisted shoot;
• cut it to a height of no more than 1.5 m;
• using the fuse-zukuri technique, form a crown from young shoots in the form of a bowl, shell or cap at the top of the main branch;
• try to direct the growth of young upper shoots parallel to the ground by tying a load to them;
• be sure to remove all excess growth at the root and correct the upper growth point.

After flowering, be sure to remove all dry candles - this stimulates an increase in flower stalks for the next year.

Norway maple. The bright red leaves of this plant are beautiful on their own. But if you give the tree the required form– you will receive a unique composition that will decorate the shore artificial reservoir or alpine slide . Plant two young seedlings next to each other, which can later be intertwined with each other, or you can grow a tree in the “Sokan” style - with a forked trunk.

Don't be afraid to experiment! For a passionate person, there is no plant that cannot be turned into a masterpiece that will be the envy of all neighbors.

Bonsai is a compact miniature plant. Now Japan is considered the birthplace of the tradition of growing miniature plants, although in fact the country only adopted the tradition from the ancient Chinese - bonsai were grown there 2 thousand years ago. And in Japan, art appeared much later, along with the religion of Buddhism.

But it was through Japan that the whole world learned about the art of bonsai. It was the inhabitants of this country who brought it to perfection and came up with many different types, methods of cultivation and decoration. For a small country like Japan, these miniature trees turned out to be very in a suitable way express your love for art, beauty and nature. At the same time, they are small, which is important, because the average apartment in Japan is small sizes- and the bonsai fit perfectly into this space. Chinese bonsai still exist, but the Japanese versions differ from them in much greater elegance and thoughtfulness.

By now, thoughtful Japanese have already created a real bonsai philosophy, as in almost all other areas of life to which they put their hands and brains. It is believed that the art of cultivating bonsai instills in a person hard work, patience and wisdom. Europeans and residents Western countries It is sometimes difficult to accept this philosophy, but nevertheless, once you start growing these plants, you will have to be patient. With proper care, bonsai can delight you for many years - some plant varieties live for more than a hundred years. And a tree planted by a grandmother may well continue to be grown by her grandchildren.

Now by the word bonsai we mean a miniature tree growing in a container, preferably a ceramic one. From regular indoor flower it differs in that bonsai looks like a tree, only very small. It also has a trunk and crown. At the same time, bonsai almost never blooms.

What are the characteristics of a “correct” bonsai:

1. A powerful trunk with obvious signs of a developed root system.
2. The branches have a clear contour, they are quite spreading, forming a crown characteristic of an ordinary tree.
3. The trunk is the basis of the bonsai, and it should be clearly visible through the leaves.
4. A bonsai should be very similar to an ordinary tree growing in natural conditions.
5. The container for the composition is preferably without decoration, a simple, laconic shape, made of ceramics or clay.
6. The pot and the plant itself should be combined with each other, emphasizing and complementing its advantages.

Bonsai come in different sizes. According to this parameter they are divided into the following groups:

• Large bonsai - from 60 to 120 cm.
• The average bonsai is from 30 to 60 cm.
• Small - from 15 to 30 cm.
• Miniature - from 5 to 15 cm. Among this last group there is a so-called “c-nail” type measuring 5-15 cm and a “baby” type - 7.5-15 cm.

The height is measured from the edge of the container in which the flower is located - to the very top of the plant.

The most popular types are small and miniature bonsai. Their beauty, decorativeness and complete repetition of ordinary tall trees in a smaller version it evokes admiration and surprise. What plants are most often grown as bonsai:

• Dwarf bamboo. This plant comes from China. It is quite capricious and thermophilic. In Russian conditions it is not suitable for garden cultivation.
• Cypress. This is a subtropical plant, it can be grown as a bonsai in greenhouses and greenhouses.
• Rosemary. Quite unpretentious.
• Olive. Very beautiful and decorative bonsai. A miniature olive can bear quite edible fruits.
• Buckthorn. The berries are poisonous. Therefore, you need to be careful when growing this bonsai. In addition, the bark of the plant is a powerful laxative. Pets are not allowed near it.
• Boxwood. Decorative and quite unpretentious.
• Chinese elm - stable and does not require much care.
• Ficus - A common tree in many homes and offices. They are low maintenance.
• Myrtle- an evergreen tree that has a pleasant smell especially during flowering, emits essential oils which are bactericidal.

Breeding at home

Growing a bonsai tree is practically no different from growing it in garden conditions its regular-sized counterpart. But, of course, there are some nuances:

A mature bonsai has few branches - generally around 3-5 main branches.

In the first few years, it is recommended to grow bonsai in a disproportionately large pot. This is necessary so that the plant develops a strong trunk of the desired shape, large capacity will allow the tree to quickly gain the required mass. After the trunk formation reaches required sizes, the bonsai can be transplanted into a pot more suitable for its size. Of course, there are methods for thickening trunks, but we will talk about them later.

Bonsai needs more thorough watering than a garden tree. But at the same time, it is not allowed to “flood” the plant, this can lead to rotting of the roots, and subsequently the death of the plant.

It is customary to replant a bonsai tree every spring, changing the soil and removing excess roots; some species are replanted 2 times a year, others once every 2-3 years.

Bonsai feeding is done using a very weakly concentrated solution and quite rarely, again it all depends on the plant, but mostly once every 1-2 months.

The most popular forms of indoor bonsai

According to this parameter, the classification was made by Japanese flower growers, so all groups have “native” names.

Chokkan. This is a bonsai with a straight trunk perpendicular to the ground. The trunk has the shape of a regular cone, evenly and symmetrically covered with branches.

Mayogi. Also a vertical trunk, but some curvature and lack of symmetry are allowed. If the chokkan resembles a garden tree, then the mayogi is a wild specimen.

Shakan. Strongly leaning bonsai.

Fukinagashi. This type of miniature symbolizes a tree that is bent by a gust of wind. It has a very strongly inclined trunk. The branches look in the direction of the slope.

Hokidachi. This shape resembles a small fan. There is a straight trunk, which, closer to the top, diverges to the sides in the form of a regular fan.

Kengai. This is a bonsai with a hanging, “ampeloid” shape. The branches and leaves of the plant may bend over the edge of the pot. As an option - Khan-kengai - a semi-hanging form, the drooping is not so pronounced.

Isitsuki. This is "bonsai growing on a rock" - the literal translation. In reality, stones are placed in the pot as rock. The roots of the plant are entwined with these stones in a very picturesque way.

Sokan. This is a form of bonsai that has two, almost identical, trunks. Literally translated it means “twins”. The trunks must grow from the same root.

Sankan. Three trunks.

Kabudachi. This is a multi-stemmed bonsai that looks like a bush. The trunks can be different in height and thickness, but there must be an odd number of them - this must be strictly monitored.

Yose-Yu. This is an imitation of a forest plot in a pot. There may be several trees of different varieties and sizes.

Ikadabuki. Translated, this form means “raft”. It is a trunk practically lying, knocked to the ground. Its branches grow vertically upward.

Making a choice between these types is not an easy task, because each of them is beautiful and wonderful in its own way. See what these styles look like in the photos and choose the one that suits you!

Growing bonsai outdoors.

if you have garden plot, whether it is a dacha or you live in a private house, then you are very lucky. After all, in the fresh air in open conditions, bonsai most quickly takes on the desired shape. In addition, some types of trees are simply not possible to keep in an apartment, this should not be forgotten!

Garden bonsai grow best outdoors. They cannot tolerate the dry air of enclosed spaces. If the plant is grown outdoors, the bonsai gets sick less often and looks better. At the same time, the plant should not be exposed to aggressive sunlight. In winter, maintaining the plant involves protecting it from precipitation and strong wind. What types of bonsai can be classified as suitable for garden cultivation:

• juniper;
• Kaempfer's larch;
• pine trees;
• Japanese maple;

gray elm And several other plants that are less known in our country. In general, for garden cultivation it is important that the plant has a strong root system and is sufficiently hardy. You can make the right choice of a suitable bonsai by consulting on the forum with experienced gardeners and lovers of these miniatures.

Growing bonsai indoors is not easy. In captivity, plants begin to be capricious and show their delicacy and fastidiousness on a full scale. But improper care of a bonsai can deprive the plant of its decorative properties and make it completely unattractive.

What conditions does he need to provide:

1. Lighting.

In our latitudes, a bonsai tree, as a guest from hotter countries, often lacks lighting. Therefore, it is best to keep it on southern windowsills. You can, if your apartment allows it, even move the pot after the sun.

If there is no way to provide sufficient natural light for it, you can arrange additional light for bonsai in the apartment using table lamp. But at the same time, artificial light can only be used as a temporary measure when it is dark and cloudy. At the same time, it is important not to place incandescent lamps near the bonsai; LED or halogen lamps are better suited.

2. Temperature

Some species can withstand winter time up to 5 degrees Celsius. In summer they should be grown outdoors at natural summer temperatures.

And tropical varieties need warmth all year round- from 18 to 25 degrees. They should also be left at home during the summer. You should know that the higher the temperature and drier the air, the more abundant the watering and the more frequent the fertilizing. And vice versa.

3. Humidity

In our ordinary rooms, the air humidity, especially if it is an apartment in winter, is not high enough. It is not very suitable for normal bonsai breeding. How to fix the situation?

You can install an electric humidifier. This thing is useful not only for the existence of bonsai, but also for the health and appearance of the inhabitants of the house. But there are also disadvantages - it is expensive, consumes a lot of electricity, and makes a lot of noise.

A simple and elegant solution is to place the bonsai pot on a tray of expanded clay filled with water. This measure is especially effective when the pan is located above the heating radiator. A steam effect is created when water quickly evaporates.

You can spray your bonsai with a spray bottle. It is better to do this procedure in the morning so that the plant does not remain overnight with wet leaves.

4. Watering

Bonsai loves fairly moist soil and tolerates drought with great difficulty. In summer, watering should be increased, in winter - vice versa. When watering, it is important to monitor the water temperature; you cannot water a delicate miniature with cold water - only at room temperature.

5. Substrate (soil for wood)

Clean store-bought soil is not suitable for growing bonsai.. It can only be use as component substrate. Maintenance of bonsai involves making the earth mixture yourself. How to do it:

1. clay - 1 part;
2. humus - 5 parts;
3. coarse sand, ground gravel - 2 parts.

This is the optimal recipe for soil substrate for growing capricious bonsai.

Instead of humus, humus from leaves or pine needles, even bark, is suitable.

Do not forget to properly grind the components of the soil. After you have prepared the parts, they should be heated at 100 degrees for 15 minutes. This heat treatment will destroy pest larvae and weed germs.

In conclusion, we add that in Japan there is a sign associated with the cultivation of miniature plants that the art of cultivating bonsai reaches its greatest flowering when the society in the country is healthy, and in general the whole country is moving forward and developing.

Fashion, hobbies, art, philosophy, the Way... Everyone who starts growing bonsai finds their meaning in this amazing phenomenon of Japanese culture. For some, this is an opportunity to relieve stress and escape from everyday worries, for others - a successful commercial enterprise, for others - an ascent to harmony, insight into the essence of things and comprehension of the laws of the universe.

A smaller version of a wild tree is more than an indoor plant grown for its beautiful leaves and flowers. This is a kind of manifesto of life, the result of the struggle for survival. Bonsai teaches optimism, patience, concentration and perseverance; it is not for nothing that these decorative compositions were so widespread among Zen monks and samurai.

All living things decay, but the older the tree, the more respect and interest we look at it. Contemplating bonsai, you can go on an imaginary journey, climb the rocks to a waterfall, see the great in the small. And the tree absorbs our views, love, admiration and reciprocates. With proper care, it can live for hundreds of years and become a living symbol that connects generations, conveying to others in the language of symbols the feelings and mood of the creator.

II: HISTORY OF BONSAI

The Japanese were not the first to grow miniature trees; Egyptian priests also cultivated them, as evidenced by drawings discovered in ancient tombs. They depict small trees in containers placed around temples.

Traveling Hindus who practiced Ayurveda used pots to transport certain medicinal saplings. To make transportation easier, plants and trees were constantly trimmed. Doctors quickly noticed that with this treatment, the leaves of the tree become smaller, the branches begin to be more dense, and the whole tree decreases in size.

But the closest relative of Japanese bonsai is considered to be an art that appeared in China during the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and was called Peng Tsai or penjing. Today, in the Shanghai Botanical Garden, you can see images of a reduced landscape and a tree in a bowl, which decorated the burial of Prince Zhang Huai, who died in 706. However, there is evidence that such trees were grown in the Middle Kingdom before the Tang Dynasty.

According to one version, the art of penjing arose from the nostalgia of both rich and poor villagers who flocked from the villages to the densely populated cities of China. In the cramped conditions of their new life, the settlers tried to preserve the memory of their native places. They laid out small gardens, resurrecting a view familiar from childhood. At the same time, some trees were specially planted in separate vessels so that they could be moved, changing the entire composition. Gardeners also had to restrain the growth of particularly large specimens and work on their shape.

Of course, few people in the city could afford a kindergarten. Most were content with what they could take in at a glance - a small tree in an elegant vase. Some compositions were so beautiful that they began to be specially made for sale.

Gradually, growing miniature trees began to turn into a separate art direction - with its own canons, schools, and branches. The variety of climatic zones and specific vegetation in each of them contributed to the emergence of a variety of penjing directions. Throughout the country, craftsmen worked with local materials, which determined their style and technique. There were two main types of penjing: take a chance And noise. The first depicted a mountain landscape in which the tree is not mandatory element or plays a minor role. Noise assumed the use of one or several trees as an obligatory dominant - it is considered the prototype of bonsai in Japan.

Penjing was brought to the Land of the Rising Sun from China in the 6th century by followers of the teachings of Zen Buddhism, who often used miniature trees for meditation. To be fair, it is worth noting that other Asian countries, such as Vietnam, also borrowed penjing, but it was thanks to Japanese masters that the culture of growing miniature trees turned into a whole philosophy. Looking ahead, let's say that centuries later, in the 20th century, the Japanese even contributed to the revival of penjing traditions in China itself, where they were mercilessly exterminated during the years of the communist regime.

Having penetrated Japan, penjing remained the prerogative of monks until the 12th century, but then miniature trees moved from temples to the palaces of the aristocracy and to the houses of the samurai, of which documentary evidence has been preserved. Among the illustrations for the book Amazing stories about Kasuga Gongen, dating back to 1303, there are drawings that already correspond to modern ideas about bonsai. And in the poem Pine in a bowl, dating from the same period, glorifies the majestic image of a tree, which “even after thousands of years, in old age, amazes with the beauty of its green needles.” Word bonsa th was not used in those days, compositions from ornamental plants or trees were called hatiue, and the principles and methods of their composition differed greatly from modern traditions. Masters Hachiue they have not yet created masterpieces of a given form with deep internal symbolism.

From the second half of the 15th century to early XVII century Japan has entered an era Warring States. Battles distracted the samurai and nobles; interest in everything elegant returned only at the end of the reign of the Tokugawa clan (1603-1868). The rulers of this period promoted the development of art borrowed from China, especially the third shogun Iemitsu, who became famous for his very stormy social life (I623-I65I). He collected large collection miniature trees, which was guarded day and night by seven samurai.

The beginning of the Meiji period (1868-1912) was marked by the adoption of the word bonsa th along with Hachiue. During these years, to compile decorative compositions Ordinary townspeople also join in. Most often they used pine, juniper, cryptomeria and plum. In the spring of 1892, a bonsai exhibition opened in one of the Tokyo restaurants - the first in the world. From this moment on, growing miniature trees in Japan is elevated to the rank of a national art; they are collected, presented as an expensive gift, and passed on by inheritance as a family heirloom that links generations.

At the beginning of the 20th century, many specialized publications appeared, paying special attention to the development of bonsai techniques. Across Japan, professionals and amateurs alike strive to improve their skills. Exhibitions are held every month, created Bonsa Development Societyth.

After the terrible earthquake of 1923, thirty Japanese craftsmen moved from Tokyo to the northeast of the country to a forest area near the city of Omiya, where Bonsa village y. It soon turned into a center for growing miniature trees, attracting professionals and amateurs from all over the world.

In the spring of 1934, several compositions by Japanese masters were exhibited among artistic masterpieces at the Tokyo Museum of Fine Arts. Since then this exhibition has become a regular occurrence. And three years later, 50 miniature trees won gold at the World Exhibition in Paris.

With the end of World War II, bonsai became known in the New World. Oriental wonders were brought to the United States by American soldiers returning home from occupied Japan. The spread of Japanese national art throughout the world was also facilitated by the emergence of fundamentally new technologies, namely the use of wire, with the help of which it is much easier to form a composition than using trimming and stretching.

After the Olympic Games in Tokyo and the international exhibition in Osaka, where 1190 magnificent examples were presented, Japanese national art finally became the property of world culture.

At the end of the 20th century, a real commercial boom swept across Europe; the bonsai hobby reached its peak in both the Old and New Worlds. Clubs, unions, associations appeared in all countries and, of course, experienced craftsmen. Growing miniature trees has become a serious business; prices for some designer specimens rose to $2,000,000 in the 1980s.

The first bonsai appeared in Russia in 1976. On the initiative of the wife of the Japanese Ambassador, Mrs. Shigemitsu, the Main Botanical Garden of the USSR Academy of Sciences received a collection of 44 miniature trees as a gift. The staff of the Botanical Garden not only looked after them, but also practiced the technique of growing bonsai from birch and pine trees dear to the Russian heart.

Soon a popular Soviet magazine Science and life published photos and quick guide bonsai care. The publication's three million circulation contributed greatly to introducing the broadest masses of our compatriots to the Japanese cultural tradition. Since then, this interest has not waned, especially now, with the opening of the world, with new opportunities.

III: BONSAI STYLES

There are no strict rules in the art of bonsai. The miniature tree requires only a little help to grow as it should on the plain, along a cliff, or near a river. Of course, for a tree to be elegant and beautiful, it needs to be given the appropriate shape.

For beginners, many bonsai styles will seem complicated, so you should start by studying standard forms, which nevertheless have enormous aesthetic and spiritual impact. These are images of trees bent by the wind or growing at an angle. You can begin to create more bizarre compositions only after many years of practice on live material.

Once you have studied and mastered the basic styles of bonsai, you will come to understand that true masterpieces are deviations from generally accepted norms. At a certain stage, a true artist must forget everything he knows and follow the dictates of his heart. But you can only reject what you yourself have fully comprehended.

MAIN STYLES

CHOKAN: STRAIGHT VERTICAL

The classic vertical is the basis of bonsai, so all beginners need to master the style tekkan before taking on more complex miniatures. According to bonsai masters, a straight vertical represents maturity and perfection.

Chokan imitates a tree with a perfectly straight, powerful trunk, which is quite rare in nature. After all, in order for a pine or spruce to normal conditions grew straight up and had a beautiful shape, they require sufficient food and water. In addition, they should not be exposed to strong winds or competition from other trees. This specimen can only be seen on the plain.

Many breeds are suitable for Chokan compositions, but the most commonly used are pine, spruce, juniper, and maple, peach, plum, cherry, orange, apple tree. Each miniature tree formed in this style is characterized by a straight, tapering trunk that is divided into three equal parts.

The lower part is free of branches, so the tree trunk, its roots and bark are visible in all their glory. Above are three main horizontal branches: the first, the most powerful, grows in one direction, the second in the other, and the third - back, away from the viewer. The last branch is especially important; it gives the composition depth, so it should be lush. The side branches are slightly lowered down and slightly turned forward, but so as not to overlap the trunk.

The upper part of the tree is decorated with thinner and shorter branches. They rise up and create, depending on the selected species, a dense deciduous or coniferous crown, spherical or pointed.

When caring for a tree, provide equal and unrestricted access to light and air to all branches. Make sure that the branches do not grow directly above one another; with this arrangement, the sun will illuminate them unevenly.

Compositions created in the chokan style are best placed in an oval or rectangular container.

MOYOGI: CURVED VERTICAL

Moyogi Considered a variation of the tekkan style, it is widespread in nature and suitable for beginners. This is one of the main methods of growing miniature trees and is used most often. Moyogi is also good because the compositions created in this style never repeat each other. Most often they are used pine, oak, maple, juniper.

The main difference between moyogi and tekkan is that the upright tree trunk has an S-shape or several bends, decreasing towards the top. Moyogi conveys movement, upward striving, flexibility. To achieve this effect, they begin to bend the trunk from the base, making sure that the top of the tree is located exactly above its base.

When choosing a container for compositions in the moyoga style, you should choose an oval or rectangular vessel. The tree is placed asymmetrically in it, its roots should be visible on the surface of the earth. Make sure that the crown does not extend beyond the edges of the container.

SOKAN (JOZHU): DOUBLE BARREL

A tree with a double trunk is very common in nature. Its miniature version is grown using two separate roots or one, forming a second trunk from a lower branch, which should not be located too high.

Compositions in style sokan They can be both vertical and inclined, and each trunk can be given a special shape. The branches of the trees diverge, but form a common crown. The beauty of such a bonsai depends on the balance of the thickness and height of the trunks. One of them is powerful, the other is subtle, which is why the Sokan style is sometimes also called “father and son” or “mother and child”.

To create compositions, it is recommended to use coniferous, evergreen and deciduous trees with small leaves, flowers and fruits. Various types are suitable pine, juniper, spruce, ginkgo, maple, beech, elm, apple, plum. In some countries, bonsai enthusiasts work with specimens of local flora, giving particular preference to those that grow in extreme environmental conditions.

SHAKAN: SLANT STYLE

Style shakan reproduces a tree that has survived a hurricane or a landslide. Its trunk - straight or curved - is at an angle to the surface of the container. Powerful roots, on the one hand, go deep into the ground, and on the other, they stick out to the surface, as if clinging to it. Depending on the inclination of the trunk, there are sho-shakan(minimum), chu-shakan(medium) and give-shakan(maximum).

The lower branch in all shakan compositions is located in the direction opposite to the inclination of the tree. Both it and the other branches are curved, the top protrudes slightly forward. It seems that the tree continues to resist gusts of wind.

To provide stability, the bulk of the bonsai should be concentrated within the boundaries of the container. When creating shakan compositions, oval or oblong shaped vessels are used. In round containers, the tree is planted in the center.

KENGAI: CASCADE STYLE

Cascading, flowing trees are often found on steep cliffs and sheer cliffs. Rooted deeply in the ground or rock, they grow by hanging down. There are similar forms in the art of bonsai, all of them derived from two main styles - kengai(full cascade) and han kengai(half-cascade).

In kengai compositions, the upward-pointing tree trunk suddenly changes direction and falls downwards, sinking below the surface of the tall container. One of the three main branches may also lean toward the side of the container, dominating the trunk. Its length is not limited, so such bonsai are usually placed on high tables. The small branch at the top is usually directed away from the main body of the tree to give stability to the entire arrangement.

Growing a bonsai in the kengai style is not easy, since the tree always strives to rise up. Forming a cascade in a garden bed is usually impossible; planting in a deep vessel is necessary. To direct the tree's growth downward, use wire or change the position of the container. The right container is extremely important for a cascading arrangement, it should be deep and heavy to balance the branches and trunk of the tree. The most suitable shape is round, square or hexagonal.

Kengai style is suitable for trees with a flexible trunk, these include azalea, juniper, cotoneaster. When choosing a specimen in a nursery, it is desirable that it has a large branch in the lower third of the trunk.

HAN-KENGAI: SEMI-CASCADE STYLE

Like the cascading style, han kengai copies trees leaning over a cliff. Its difference is that in han-kengai compositions the trunk is not bent so strongly, but is directed horizontally, not allowing them to further fall under their weight below the base of the container. The trunk, growing upward, is located in the center and is formed by a wide crown. The semi-cascade requires proportionality between the crown and the trunk; the roots must be well developed and located in the direction of the main cascade branch.

For han-kengai compositions, the same types of well-bending trees are used as for cascading miniatures. The container may be flatter and not as deep.

BUJINGI: LITERARY STYLE

Bujingi- one of the most exquisite styles bonsai, it was formed relatively recently, at the end of the Edo period (1603-1868). The origins of bujinga were Japanese writers and fans of Chinese painting Nanga. Creating compositions from miniature trees, they tried to imitate the artists of the Celestial Empire in everything, deliberately ignoring the canons of bonsai. Intellectuals relied in everything on their own inspiration, which they drew, among other things, from the famous treatise A Word on Painting from the Mustard Seed Garden, the main guide to Nanga. Subsequently, some terms coined by Japanese writers began to be used by other bonsai masters.

The literary style is reminiscent of delicate ink drawings that are created with just a few strokes of the brush. Bujinga compositions require less time than others. The emphasis is on the tall, thin, gracefully curved trunk. The tree has no lower branches, the upper ones are ledges. The crown is small but well formed, there is little foliage and it is clearly visible. Such trees are found in shaded areas of the forest, where, due to lack of sun, their lower branches die off and the trunk becomes gnarled and rough.

Both coniferous and broad-leaved trees are suitable for buddinga-style compositions. The bonsai should be placed in a small round container with raised edges. The color of the container should be bright.

NEAGARI: EXPOSED ROOTS

“I was shaped by the ebb and flow of the tides” - this is how one can describe the style Neagari, one of the most original in the art of bonsai. The roots of the tree in non-agari compositions are not just exposed, they are raised high above the ground and twisted, as if with a rope. The trunk stands on them, like on stilts. Similar forms can be seen along the banks of rivers, where trees are washed away by water.

For non-agari style compositions, trees that form aerial roots should be used, such as some ficus- Ficus benghalensis, Ficus retusa or Ficus pumila.

SEKIJOJU: TREE ON STONE

Style sekijoju very impressive, the viewer sees a tree on a rock, with a spreading crown and powerful roots, reminiscent of a cobweb that tenaciously engulfs the entire stone. This is how vegetation survives on huge boulders. Over time, the roots of a tree growing on rocks begin to resemble trunks.

The Sekijoju style is suitable for all unpretentious breeds with well-developed roots. Most often used maple, Chinese elm, pine and juniper.

The tree itself in sekijoju compositions can be grown in any style, with the possible exception of “broom” and “straight vertical”. The stone fragment used as rock must have through crevices so that the roots can penetrate through them to the soil.

If the root system is not long enough, the tree is first planted in a deep box and, as it grows, the top layer of soil is removed. The roots become exposed and begin to become woody. When they reach the bottom of the box, the tree is taken out, tied tightly to the stone with twine or wire and wrapped in polyethylene, after adding a little sandy soil, and watered generously. After the bonsai gets stronger and starts sprouting, the polyethylene and sand are removed, and the tree is transplanted into a container.

HOKIDACHI: BROOM

Bonsai in style hokidati resembles a broom placed on a handle. It is suitable for broad-leaved trees with spreading thin branches that look attractive even without foliage. In nature, such forms are found in zelkova, elm or hornbeam These breeds are most often worked with, but birch, willow or oak They are definitely not suitable for creating a beautiful “broom”.

The tree trunk in hokidachi compositions is strictly vertical, but not very long. All branches diverge from one point, forming a dense spherical crown. Its ratio to the length of the trunk is 2:1.

The crown can be formed by one or more equal branches, but none of them should dominate the others. If this happens, such a branch must be greatly shortened or completely removed.

Classic Hokidachi bonsai is formed by pinching the apical shoot to 1/3 of the total height of the trunk. With the appearance of buds, the crown of the tree takes on a V-shape; they continue to work with it, pinching the branches to achieve a better result.

In a container, the Hokidachi style bonsai should be positioned strictly in the center.

IKADABUKI: THE RAFT

The center of the composition ikadabooks becomes a fallen tree, which is re-rooted on the soil in a horizontal position. The branches of the tree, obeying the laws of growth, begin to rise upward and over time turn into trunks that stand vertically, like people on a raft.

To form such bonsai, specimens are used that have more branches on one side - they are preserved, while others are removed, making shallow notches along the entire length of the trunk to speed up the formation of new roots. The tree is then pressed into the soil and secured with strips of bast or fabric.

The time it takes for a new root system to develop depends on the tree species. For maple it will take 1-2 years, for pine - up to 5 years. Only after the specified time has passed can the root of the main tree be removed and the entire composition moved to a more suitable container. Except maple And pine trees Ikadabuki style is suitable for working with juniper, euonymus, ficus.

There are two types of “rafts”: straight and curved. In the first case, the composition is based on a short and thick tree, its branches are along the same line and grow strictly vertically or with a slight slope. Another type of bonsai requires a thin, several times curved tree, on which the branches are arranged in a random order. In both the first and second cases, the new trunks may have their own bends, but then this pattern must be repeated throughout the entire composition.

SARIMIKI: DEAD WOOD

The center of compositions in style sarimiki areas of dead wood become. They are created artificially by cutting off the bark with special pliers. The movement of juices in such areas stops, and the wood dries out.

The dead areas of the trunk and branches are called, respectively, syari And gins. Gin can be split with special pliers and “tears” can be made, simulating a lightning strike. Exposed areas are treated with sandpaper and sulfurous lime to whiten the wood.

This is exactly what it looks like juniper, growing on mountain slopes under the rays of the sun. Him, along with yew, spruce or pine Most often they are used to create compositions in the sarimiki style, since the wood of these species is not affected by fungus and does not rot. Many deciduous trees can be artificially aged, but the sarimika style is quite complex: the dead areas must look beautiful, but you need to work very carefully so as not to destroy the entire tree.

SPECIAL STYLES

NETSURANARI: COMMON ROOTS

"Standing Soldiers" or netsuranari symbolizes constancy, devotion, reliability. The composition looks like a group of several trees, although all the trunks come from the same root. To do this, the tree is placed on the bottom of the container and covered with earth, and the branches are directed upward. Over time, they will become like individual trees, reminiscent of a forest.

When creating compositions in the netsuranari style, they use Japanese white pine (Pinus parvifl ora) or Ayan spruce (Picea jezoensis). The Japanese believe that these trees bring happiness.

FUKINAGASHI: TREE IN THE WIND

The image of a tree in the wind captivates and touches you at first sight; this is one of the most wonderful scenes in the art of bonsai. Apparently, Japanese craftsmen spotted it on the seashore, where the wind always blows in one direction.

Style fukinagashi imitates a tree with one or two trunks, which from birth had no choice but to bend under the pressure of the elements so as not to break. When looking at such a composition, the viewer should feel a gust of wind, so the crown of the tree should be a little disheveled and have a minimum of leaves or needles.

Fukinagashi resembles another style - shakan, but what they have in common is only the tilt that arose under the influence natural factors. The difference is that the branches of the “tree in the wind” grow only in one direction, and not in both. Towards the top they become shorter, making the whole composition look like a developing triangular pennant.

When creating compositions in the fukinagashi style, you can use pine, juniper, sageteria And birch It is better to grow such a bonsai in a rectangular or oval container.

YSE-UE: FOREST

This style conveys the idea of ​​continuity of generations to an even greater extent than sokan: yose-ue- a whole forest family with a large mother tree at the head.

The total number of “relatives” in yose-ue compositions is always odd - from 5 to 19. Each of them is assigned a strictly defined place in the container. The “mother” is in front, with “children” located around her at different distances. To enhance the perspective, the rear trees with dense lower branches and a dense crown are placed more compactly, and the front trunks are left open. When creating a miniature forest, you can take trees of the same species, but combinations of evergreen and deciduous species look most advantageous. Most often used pine, thuja, cryptomeria, beech, hornbeam, birch, zelkova or maple. They will look best in an oval shaped container.

The complexity of the “forest” style is that it, like no other, requires complete naturalness from the composition. You need to take care of different levels of relief, stones, possibly additional low growing plants. But the most difficult thing is to show the time. Looking at such a family, the viewer should see that the trees appeared in the general group gradually, over many years.

SAIKEI:LANDSCAPE IN MINIATURE

Saikei, Strictly speaking, it is not a bonsai style; it is an independent direction for creating miniature landscapes in which, in addition to trees, stones, soil, moss and other plants are used. Bonsai masters influenced the development of saikei, but this direction also absorbed the traditions of Vietnamese honnonbo(the so-called sculptural groups imitating islands, mountains and the surrounding nature), as well as some principles bonkei And bonseki(Japanese landscapes made of stones and sand).

The history of saikei goes back hundreds of years; the first images of miniature landscapes are found on scrolls of the 13th century. After World War II this ancient art reborn thanks to a bonsai master Toshio Kawamoto. Kawamoto founded his own school and made saikei extremely popular both in Japan and in other countries of the world. Followers continued the work of the master, raising his art to an even higher level.

Toshio Kawamoto wanted to ensure that he and his students did not have to wait too long when creating miniature landscapes, so he selected young seedlings rather than mature trees to work with. The techniques for caring for them and their styles are the same as in the art of bonsai.

However, saikei have differences, primarily ideological ones. If bonsai masters focus on the beauty of one or several trees, then in saikei they become elements of the landscape - obligatory, but not paramount. Bonsai compositions often use stones, but they do not form the landscape, while in saikei they play a very important role. Toshio Kawamoto even introduced a special classification for them - mountain, island, lonely coast etc. All elements of the composition are arranged in such a way as to recreate in miniature a natural landscape, sometimes a real, memorable one.

The classic saikei is placed on a large ceramic tray in neutral tones with low sides. The drainage holes at the bottom of the tray are covered with plastic mesh, after which a thin layer of soil mixture is poured onto it. Before placing trees in places, their roots can be covered with peat and clay for stability. Trees and plants should be positioned so that the viewer gets a sense of perspective - the smaller the size, the further away.

Then comes the turn of the stones; they should be laid out in accordance with the preliminary sketch. The height of all elements must be balanced so that the fragment acting as a rock is higher than the tree.

After placing the stones and trees, the space between them is filled with a soil mixture, then the entire surface is covered with soil, making sure that the layer of soil is not very thick.

Saikei is decorated with pieces of moss and placed in a place protected from wind and direct sunlight. A miniature landscape needs not only to be watered regularly, but also sprayed. In winter, the saikei should be kept in a room where the temperature does not drop below 0°.

IV: BONSAI CLASSIFICATION

SIZE

The value of a true masterpiece is determined not by its size, but by the skill and taste of the creator. Among bonsai there are very tiny trees that fit in the palm of your hand, and the famous Moonlight Pine, growing on the island of Honshu in Shizuoka Prefecture, its branches extend as much as 13 meters!

The bonsai is measured from the top to the base of the trunk, excluding the container. Cascade and semi-cascade forms are difficult, since such specimens first rise and then fall. Their size is determined from the base to the bend that the trunk forms before going down again.

There are several basic sizes of miniature trees. And, although such systematization is considered rather arbitrary, and there are discrepancies in the numbers, experts usually distinguish 5 classes of bonsai, differing in their sizes.

mom

The tiniest bonsai belong to the class mom. Among them there are real midgets - no more than 2.5 cm. This size is called Kesitsubu. They go for kesitsuba sieve(2.5-7.5 cm) and gafu(13-20 cm).

Shohin

Next class - Shohin, it includes trees up to 18 cm (komono) and from 15 to 20 cm (chumono). These bonsai are considered small, they, like mame, require increased attention because of its fragility and vulnerability. They require special containers, and tiny and small trees are replanted, pruned and watered more often than others. Such bonsai can be grown from juniper, serviceberry, rhododendron, spruce.

kifu

Medium-sized trees, up to 40 cm (Toatademochi), merged into Class kifu. Suitable for creating such bonsai barberry, field or rock maple, privet, mountain pine.

tehin

Class tehin- these are trees from 40 cm, for example, birch, hazel, pine, ash maple, elm. The largest bonsai in this class (omono) reach a meter or more, they are grown from beech, oak, elderberry, false maple, larch, linden, ash. In Japan, it is customary to place omono at the entrance to a rich estate - as a sign of cordiality and hospitality or as a symbol of the well-being of the owners.

daidza

Daiza - huge bonsai exceeding one meter . They can be seen in some ancient Japanese gardens. Most suitable breeds for such giants are considered plane tree, chestnut, black pine, elderberry, acacia, wisteria.

NUMBER OF TRUNKS

The most common compositions are those that consist of one tree growing with one trunk. They are presented in each of the styles. There are multi-stemmed bonsai with common roots, as well as groups of trees of the same or different species, each of which has its own root system. They are used when creating landscapes, making sure that the number of trunks in such compositions is odd.

AGE OF BONSAI

It takes many years to shape and perfect a miniature tree. The age of a bonsai can range from 5 years to several centuries. Centuries-old specimens are priceless; they are passed down from generation to generation, exhibited in museums or kept in private collections inaccessible to a wider audience.

The oldest trees in the garden are considered Happo-en in Tokyo. Life cycle some of them date back about 8 centuries. Among the venerable centenarians is the already mentioned Moonlight Pine. It is more than 6 centuries old; it is known that its first owner was the local prince Shingen Takada. Nowadays they use it to care for pine modern technologies, there is even a special platform installed under it that rotates the tree so that it is evenly illuminated from all sides.

Another unique specimen, passed down through the line of Japanese emperors, deserves special mention. This Third Generation Tokugawa Pine, because of which one of the shoguns of a powerful dynasty neglected his duties and completely devoted himself to the art of bonsai. The tree was planted 500 years ago and remains in the collection of the imperial palace to this day.

Finally, in the American arboretum National Arboretum you can see a miniature pine Yamaki, transported to the USA from Japan. She is approximately 375 years old; during the bombing of Hiroshima, she was only three kilometers from the site where the atomic bomb fell and remained completely unharmed.

The exact age of such masterpieces cannot be determined without damaging them. Therefore, experts tend to rely on historical evidence when making assessments.

However, you should not think that a real bonsai must be very old. Indeed, it is impossible to create compositions with a split trunk or partially peeled bark from young trees. But they also look very expressive and impressive if they are formed correctly and harmoniously.

V: BONSAI CHOICE

When creating bonsai, experts and amateurs use about 400 different types of trees and shrubs. Sometimes in compositions you come across herbaceous plants, for example, some small ferns. They are very beautiful, although in winter they need moist and cool air, otherwise their leaves will dry out.

However, classic bonsai is grown from plants that have a solid trunk and branches, that is, from trees or shrubs. Note that in different countries the world has developed its own traditions. Thus, in Japan, heavy trees with a powerful trunk and a perfectly formed crown are more common. In the USA, simple and rough specimens are valued, which often reach 1 meter in height. Europeans prefer elegant compositions with thin trunks.

When making your choice, think about the effect you expect from the future composition. You need to remember that evergreen species will delight you with their beauty all year round, while other trees are good during the flowering period or, conversely, in winter, due to the peculiar shape of their bare branches.

The queen of coniferous bonsai is considered pine, they are following her juniper, larch, thuja, cypress. Of the fruit-bearing and beautifully flowering trees, we can recommend acacia, guava, pomegranate, myrtle, magnolia, peach, plum, citrus. Maple- a favorite of deciduous species, but miniature ones look no less impressive oak, beech, hornbeam, willow, birch or Rowan. Deciduous trees in general, they are most suitable for bonsai, and those whose leaves and flowers are naturally small, as this helps to achieve a proportional relationship between all elements of the future composition.

Rocks that saturate the air with volatile healing secretions and clean it well are highly valued - these include grapefruit, lemon, fig, euonymus, hibiscus, laurel, boxwood and others. Of course, if you don’t like a particular smell, you don’t need to force yourself for the sake of beauty ideals. Remember the main rule: under no circumstances choose something that annoys you, confuses you with its appearance, color or aroma. A miniature tree should bring only positive emotions to its owner and reflect his character.

Bonsai can be grown from seeds or Yamadori- this is the name of a tree or shrub taken from a special nursery. It is better for beginners to go the second way, and they need to start with young specimens of fast-growing breeds, for example, with junipers or cypress trees. Then you will see the first results faster, acquire some skills and not lose interest.

VI: BONSAI PLACEMENT

Most bonsai are not indoor plants; they require outdoor space to grow and develop properly. Therefore, the Japanese grow them in gardens and bring them into the house on special occasions.

Exotic Japanese seedlings do not take root well in Russian conditions. But the decoration of your summer cottage plot Many types of our trees can become. In this case, you will not need to worry about watering, all that remains is pruning and shaping.

Accustomed to cold weather and can easily winter outside oak, birch, elm, lilac, barberry, apple, pear, plum, cherry, pine, spruce, junipers, thuja, cotoneaster, larch. However, in summer they should be protected from direct sunlight. These trees do not tolerate indoor climate well.

Indoors, our compatriots successfully cultivate tropical and subtropical plants. Among them - serissa, ficus, pomegranate, hibiscus, dracaena, cordyline,jaboticaba,gardenia and famous "Money Tree". They do not require special conditions during wintering; forming a bonsai from them is faster and easier. But some heat-loving species (cedars, cryptomerias, cypresses) In summer it is better to keep it in the garden, and in winter - in a bright, cool room, at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees. As day length and light intensity increase, they can be moved to a warm room, which is especially desirable for flowering species.

VII: LIGHTING

Most indoor bonsai trees require a lot of light. Exceptions are trees that are naturally short and grow in the forest, where they are hidden from direct sunlight. For other species, you need to find a well-lit place, for example, on a windowsill, but be sure to ensure that the bonsai does not overheat. The tree must be rotated several times during the day so that all parts receive an even amount of light.

You can determine the lack of light by the distance between the leaves - internodes. During normal formation, the leaves are located on the branches close to each other. If this distance increases, then the bonsai requires additional lighting. Look elsewhere or buy a lamp - fluorescent, halogen or mercury. It is better to exclude incandescent lamps, their light differs from daylight, and heat rays can damage the bonsai. It is not recommended to use artificial light all year round, but in winter, as well as on cloudy days, additional lighting is necessary.

VIII: TEMPERATURE REGIME

Bonsai intended for unheated premises, in winter they are kept in the cold at a temperature within 5-12°C. You can create such conditions in a winter garden or a special greenhouse.

Tropical species thrive all year round at temperatures of 18-24°C. In the summer they are exposed to the open air, increasing the time by 30 minutes every day in order to gradually accustom the bonsai to the sun's rays.

The higher the temperature of a miniature tree, the more light, water and nutrients it needs. As the thermometer drops, watering and fertilizing the plant can be reduced.

IX: HUMIDITY

Humidity in the tropics, where many houseplants come from, is very high. The more moisture in the air, the less water they need. In Russian houses, where the humidity is much lower, the situation can be corrected by an aquarium placed near the bonsai. Other plants that evaporate moisture or a tray filled with water and hydroballs in which a container with a miniature tree is placed will also help. The amount of liquid must be maintained at the same level. The effectiveness of this method will be even higher if the tray and bonsai are placed above the heating system. It's easier and cheaper than using a bulky, noisy and expensive humidifier.

In the first half of the day, tropical bonsai can be sprayed with water, but not in bright and hot sun. This procedure gives only a short-term effect, so it must be carried out repeatedly, but so that the tree dries out by the evening.

Under natural conditions, powerful crowns protect trees from excessive evaporation of moisture and from pests that are repelled by swaying foliage. Indoors there is virtually no air movement, and tender shoots can become easy prey for insects. This is another reason to put the bonsai on the balcony or out into the garden, or turn on a fan nearby.

X: WATERING

Placing a miniature tree in a container has its own challenges, resulting in bonsai requiring more water than regular indoor plants. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the soil in the pot remains moist, but not wet.

It is believed that you can water a bonsai from above, from below, or alternating both of these methods. The main thing is to thoroughly moisten the entire earthen ball, and not just the surface. When watering from above, water should appear from the drainage holes of the container and flow into the pan, from where it must be removed. Watering from above helps flush out excess mineral salts from the soil, and it’s easier to monitor the penetration of moisture to the roots. You can pour water into the pan, but then you must drain the excess after it is absorbed into the soil. A bonsai container cannot be constantly in water to prevent this from happening; it even has special legs for safety.

When planting a miniature tree, the soil around it is thoroughly compacted, which is why the dense soil makes it difficult for moisture to reach the roots of the bonsai. Therefore, bonsai are sometimes simply lowered into a basin of water - this is another way to properly wet the earthen ball.

The watering regime and its frequency depend on the type of tree. Coniferous bonsai require less moisture compared to deciduous bonsai. In summer, during the period of intensive growth, watering should be done daily, and in hot weather - twice a day, which does not apply to subtropical plants. In winter, once or twice a week is enough, and not so much.

To bring bonsai maintenance conditions closer to natural, miniature trees are watered only in the morning and evening hours, at a time when dew falls in nature. But if on a hot day you see that the bonsai leaves are drooping, cool it first in the shade and then lower the container into a container of warm water. When the tree quenches its thirst, spray it. The water temperature during watering and spraying should be several degrees higher than the ambient temperature.

The best water for irrigation is melted water; tap water should be left for three days or purified with a household filter. Water hardness can create problems when growing bonsai; filters with ion exchange resins help solve them; they remove impurities of calcium and magnesium salts. If this is not done, then over time a white chalky sediment will appear on the surface of the earth and on the bark, which cannot be removed. Hard water leaves an indelible coating on the leaves, so keep this in mind when spraying bonsai.

Proper watering is one of the main conditions for caring for miniature trees. Even a single overdrying will almost certainly destroy most of them, as will an excess of moisture. Planting bonsai in well-formed soil reduces the risk of consequences from improper watering.

XI: SOIL, DRAINAGE

Ready-made soil, which is used for growing ordinary indoor plants, is not suitable for bonsai. The correct soil mixture is a substrate consisting of sand, clay, humus(old leaves, pine needles, peat, rotted bark). This substrate can be purchased at the store or made yourself.

For deciduous rocks, the mixture is prepared from 7 parts clay and 3 parts sand. Flowering and fruit-bearing trees need soil containing 6 parts clay, 3 parts sand and 1 part leaf humus. When working with coniferous bonsai, clay and sand are taken in a ratio of 6 to 4.

A small amount can be added to the substrate organic fertilizers- horn sawdust, blood, fish or bone meal, rapeseed cake (3 g of organic matter per 1 kg of soil). After all the components are thoroughly mixed, the mixture is neutralized from weed seeds and pathogens by heating it for 15 minutes at 100 °C in a saucepan or other suitable container.

In addition to the substrate, drainage is placed in the container - broken shards, pebbles, expanded clay, coarse wet sand or special chemically neutral granules. The size of the latter is 3-4 mm. Smaller granules will spill out of the drainage holes, and larger ones will stick together, causing the drainage to stop letting water through. The weaker the plant’s root system, the larger the drainage layer should be.

XII: BONSAI CONTAINER

The right container is critical when growing a miniature tree. Note that in the art of bonsai it is not just a container, but one of essential elements throughout the composition, it must be in complete harmony with the tree. The Japanese even have a special term - hachiutsuri, it is used to assess the compositional unity of all components of bonsai.

It is not surprising that the bowl in which the tree grows is sometimes itself a work of art. Here's just one historical note: in 2011, a buyer who paid $1,296,850 for a three-century-old bonsai Pinus parviflora, had to pay an additional $493,000 for the pot in which the Japanese white pine was sold.

Of course, such masterpieces are only affordable for wealthy collectors who attend special auctions where rare antique utensils are exhibited. For someone who is just learning the basics of art, an ordinary high-quality container, chosen according to the rules given below, is quite suitable.

First of all, such a vessel must be made of natural materials - clay, earthenware or porcelain. It should be remembered that clay pots They absorb moisture well, therefore, you will have to water the tree more abundantly and more often. And if your bonsai will grow in the garden, it will need frost-resistant ceramics.

The walls of the pots are covered with glaze, but only on the outside, otherwise the soil inside will slide off without touching them. Such products are very beautiful, but, unlike unglazed ones, they are less capable of transmitting oxygen and moisture from the air to the roots. Therefore, unglazed pots are recommended while the tree is still growing and getting stronger.

The shape of the container can be arbitrary - square, rectangular, round, oval. As a general rule, most straight and tall bonsai are grown in shallow containers. According to experts, a low bowl imitates a plain or clearing on which a lone tree stands. Such a container is also preferable because it promotes the formation of a flat root system for the tree. For bonsai with a wide crown and a powerful trunk, medium-height vessels are suitable. Deep and tall pots are needed when working with cascading styles, in this case the container plays the role of a “rock”.

The proportions of the container and the tree must be balanced so that the container, on the one hand, does not overwhelm the bonsai, and on the other, fully corresponds to the height of the trunk and the size of the root system.

A miniature tree needs to be watered frequently. To protect the roots from rotting, more drainage holes are made in the bottom of the container than in ordinary flower pots. The holes are covered with a special mesh made of thick plastic with a cell size of about 3 mm. It is specially made in Japan, but a regular “mosquito” will do.

The color of the container should go well with the foliage or needles. Flashy colors will distract the viewer’s attention, so in general, experts suggest choosing soft shades of brown, green, gray or blue. In Japan, coniferous trees are usually planted in brown-colored bowls or bowls made of unglazed ceramics. For hardwoods use beige, green or Blue colour. Flowering bonsai look beautiful in black or white pots. The most important thing is not to combine cold and warm colors in one composition. You should not grow blue juniper in a terracotta container, and pine in a blue glazed one, this will be a gross violation of the hachiutsuri principle.

When choosing a container, you need to pay attention to the age of your bonsai. Young specimens are first placed in ordinary flower pots- they are also called “expanding”, because in them the root system can develop freely. When the bonsai acquires the desired shape, the tree is transplanted into a flat container, reducing the volume of the roots by pruning.

XIII: BONSAI REPRODUCTION

There are two ways to propagate bonsai: vegetative, in which cuttings, shoots or scions are used, and seed. In indoor conditions, they most often resort to the first method, the simplest and most reliable. The seeds of some tropical plants require sufficient heat and humidity, there is no way to do without a greenhouse with bottom heating.

REPRODUCTION BY CUTTINGS

A cutting is a part of a root, leaf or shoot from which, with proper care, you can get a new plant. Stem cuttings It takes from 10 days to several weeks for the root system to form and growth to begin. The timing depends on the type of plant, its age and ability to form new roots and shoots.

Can be propagated by cuttings coniferous trees, except for spruce, pine and fir, using the same soil mixtures for rooting as for seeds. Some cuttings root better when they are very young, others - when they are older.

There are three types of cuttings: green, actively growing, semi-lignified and lignified.

Green cuttings cut from the tops of rapidly growing young shoots under a node or bud, leaving 3-5 leaves on top and exposing the lower third. It is best to do this in the spring, in the morning. The parent plant is pre-pruned, this stimulates the appearance of fresh shoots. Make sure that the cut is smooth and free of burrs and under no circumstances touch it with your hands.

The finished cuttings are buried a third of their length in the soil mixture. They are very sensitive to lack of moisture, so watering should be plentiful and the water temperature should be between 20 - 25°C. If the cuttings are not planted immediately after cutting, they must be placed in a container with water.

Semi-lignified cuttings - these are the bases of shoots 10-15 cm long, they are harvested at the end of summer. When cutting, the shoots are pulled down so that a piece of wood about 1.5-2 cm is split off from the main stem of the parent tree (this “heel” promotes rooting). The leaves from the lower third of the cutting are removed, and the cut is treated with a growth regulator.

Semi-lignified cuttings placed in soil mixture at a temperature of 14-18°C, best option for them it is a cold greenhouse. The growth of cuttings is supported with liquid fertilizer; fertilizing should be regular.

Lignified cuttings are rare, although this method is applicable for the propagation of some shrubs that have a dormant period when their growth has completely stopped, the foliage has been shed, and the stems have hardened. For propagation, lignified shoots with 5-6 buds are chosen. To speed up the process of root formation, the cuttings are buried in a greenhouse at an angle of 45°, deepening 3 buds into the ground.

Lignified cuttings can dry out due to evaporation from the surface of the shoots, which most often explains their lack of newly formed roots. Therefore, for the upper part of the cutting it will be necessary to create conditions low temperature. This way the buds will not bloom, and all the energy of the bonsai will go to the development of the root system. Cuttings in which it forms very slowly are treated with special growth regulators.

REPRODUCTION BY LOCATIONS

Layerings are a type of cuttings, the difference being that they are separated from the parent tree only after they have taken root. Layers may be ordinary And air.

Regular layering applicable when you are dealing with a tree whose lower branches are so close to the ground that they can be bent to it without breaking. These include ficus magnolias, pine trees, forsythia, weigels, irga, aralia.

After the desired branch has been selected, porous vegetable compost is poured underneath it. When working with a parent tree growing in a container, you can use a pot set at the desired height.

In the place where the branch should grow new roots, make 1-2 longitudinal cuts, and clean off the foliage around it. After this, the branch is pressed to the surface and recessed by 10 cm, securing it with wire in the ground or pressing it with something heavy. The soil should always be moist. Once the roots are strong, the cuttings can be separated from the parent plant.

Air layering allow form a bonsai in the shortest possible time from branches of a relatively mature tree. This method is suitable for Crassulas,rhododendron, maples, beeches, cedars, pyracantha, pomegranate, elm, quince, willow and many others. Their branches are located high from the surface of the earth and do not reach it. But it turns out that you can bring the earth itself closer to the branches, although it is best to do this in the spring.

After selecting a suitable stem, 2-3 longitudinal cuts 3-5 cm long are made under one of its buds. Using ordinary matches, they are slightly expanded and treated with growth stimulants. The cuts are pressed with damp moss and vegetable compost. Then these places are wrapped with a piece of perforated polyethylene film or coarse cloth and water generously. Once the roots appear, the protective wrap is removed, the cuttings are cut off and transplanted into a container.

GRAFT

Grafting is a rather complicated procedure; it should be carried out only after acquiring gardening skills, but even then it can give unexpected results. Therefore, it is better to conduct the first experiments on inexpensive material. Grafting is usually used if other methods of propagation are impossible or in emergency cases, for example, to save a bonsai with a damaged root system.

With the help of grafting, you can achieve the appearance of flowers of different colors on one tree. Agree that a miniature plum with white, pink and red flowers will look very impressive. In addition, this method allows you to add branches to the sparse part of the tree crown to make it thicker.

Vaccination has another important advantage. Bonsai grown from seeds may be genetically different from their parents, while grafted specimens fully retain their characteristic features.

Grafting is nothing more than the implantation of a part of a plant (scion) into the rootstock - that is, into the trunk, branch or roots of an individual of the same species. The grafting site is tied with a strong elastic material for fixation and coated with a special mastic, which protects the sections from atmospheric influences, insect pests and pathogens. The best period for such a procedure is spring, since sap flow begins at this time, or summer.

Grafting into cleft allows you to implant new branches into the tree. The rootstock is split with a knife to a depth of 3-5 cm and a cutting cut off on both sides with a wedge (scion) is inserted into the gap. It is cut either from the parent tree or from another tree of the same species. This grafting can only be done on thin branches in the spring.

Inoculation (budding) necessary in cases where it is necessary to combine the masculine and female tree, to result in a bisexual specimen that bears fruit. The rootstock is sprayed with a spray bottle, after which the letter “T” is cut out on the bark. By pulling back the bark, a “peephole” is inserted into the incision - a bud with a shield, cut from a scion shoot. After this, the graft is tied and sealed.

The budding takes root when the petiole of the eye falls off, which usually happens in the spring of the following year. The chances of success are increased by several simultaneous buddings in different places: this way you can get not one, but several new branches.

Lateral incision grafting used when working with evergreen tree species. On the rootstock, closer to the root collar, a side cut is made about 5 cm deep. A cutting cut obliquely on both sides is inserted into it, then this place is wrapped in cloth and coated with mastic. This grafting is carried out in the summer, and in the spring the scion begins to grow. It is cut at an angle, directly above the grafting site.

Vaccination for bark makes it possible to form a bonsai with numerous trunks, it also promotes the growth of old trees. A vertical cut about 3 cm long is made on the trunk of the parent tree, after which the bark is separated from the wood, and a scion of a smaller diameter is inserted under it. The grafting site is tied with cloth and coated with mastic. This method allows you to graft several cuttings onto one rootstock at once. But this procedure should only be carried out on large trees in the spring.

Proximity grafting (ablactation) - this is the merging of two independently growing branches. This phenomenon is very common in nature, and gardeners have been using this method since time immemorial. It is simple and reliable, since the spliced ​​branches continue to be nourished, because the movement of juices through them does not stop. The chances of successful fusion with ablactation are much higher than with cuttings.

During grafting, about 3 cm of bark is cut off from the scion and rootstock. After that, they are connected, tied and covered with mastic.

Approximation grafting is carried out in the spring, and by autumn the scion takes root. It is separated by cutting off part of the rootstock directly above the alignment point.

GROWING FROM SEEDS

This method is long and painstaking, but it is the one that allows you to form the most beautiful compositions. Remember that there are no special seeds for bonsai" does not exist, you will need those that you can buy at any garden store or assemble yourself.

The seeds of some plants need to be sown immediately because they germinate immediately after harvest. Others should be stored in a cool, dry place for some time. Still others can germinate in autumn or winter, but first they must be placed in damp sand for several days.

Sowing is carried out in spring or from late summer to mid-autumn. Sow the seeds in soil sifted through a fine sieve and mixed with sand. Large seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil, while small ones are left on the surface, after which they are watered with a spray bottle, covered with glass on top or placed in a greenhouse.

Later, the top layer of soil is slightly dried. This protects the seeds from rotting and provides them with air. Depending on the type of plant, germination time ranges from 1 to 2 months.

The emerging shoots are ventilated, but not watered so often so that the roots do not rot. Seedlings grown from seeds are transplanted into containers and watered.

XIV: TRANSPLANTING AND FORMATION OF BONSAI

TRANSFER

Every plant grown artificially needs regular replanting. This is due to the fact that the composition of the soil in the container deteriorates over time, its granular structure is destroyed, and organic residues accumulate in it. The balance of microelements is disrupted and changes chemical composition, as a result, the soil becomes acidic, as evidenced by a decrease in the size of the leaves.

Miniature trees are no exception; they also need to be replanted in order to achieve the correct ratio of roots and crowns. Thus, the main tasks when replanting a bonsai are to replace part of the soil and remove oppressed or too thick roots.

Young trees up to 3-4 years old are replanted annually, adults - once every 2-3 years, and old trees can be left undisturbed for 10-15 years. Coniferous species require this procedure more often than deciduous species. In the same way, bonsai that grow all year round in warm climates are replanted once every 2-3 years, and more frost-resistant ones - after 5 years.

If we are not talking about emergency tree rescue, then the best time for replanting is spring or autumn. First, the bonsai needs to be dried a little, for which watering is stopped for 1-2 days so that the earthen ball decreases in size and separates itself from the walls of the container. The tree is taken by the base of the trunk and carefully turned left and right. If it sits tightly in the container, gently push it from below by pressing a stick onto the earthen ball through the drainage hole, or use a thin metal spatula with rounded edges.

Before trimming the roots, straighten them with small rakes; if you don’t have one at hand, they will do Khasi- traditional Japanese chopsticks. The roots are cut directly with the soil - so that they protrude 2-3 cm from the earthen ball. The cutting tool must be very sharp in order to injure the bonsai as little as possible.

After this, change the drainage and add fresh soil substrate to the container. The bonsai is placed inside, rotated around its axis to straighten the thin roots and fall asleep. Fresh substrate must fill the entire space; air cavities are detrimental to the root system. The tree, if necessary, can be secured in a container using copper wire, but under no circumstances should the trunk be buried in the ground and the root collar covered - this will lead to the death of the bonsai.

When transplanting miniature trees, the container is not changed, except in cases where there is a desire to improve the composition. Make sure that the new container does not greatly exceed the size of the old one; a bonsai with small roots in a large container will most likely not take root, as the soil may become acidic. If you still use another container, and one that has already been used, disinfect it in a solution of potassium permanganate, and scald the new one with boiling water.

After replanting is completed, the bonsai should be watered generously and placed away from direct sunlight and drafts.

FORMATION OF BONSAI

FORMATION OF ROOTS

Strong, healthy, well-developed root system - the most important condition for bonsai, otherwise the tree will simply die. Thin underground roots supply the trunk and branches with moisture and microelements, and large ones protruding to the surface keep the tree in the ground.

The condition of the root system is determined during bonsai transplants. Rotten and dry areas are cut off with a sharp instrument. After this, the roots are straightened so that they diverge radially from the trunk.

Particular attention should be paid nebari - aboveground roots. They should not only be strong, but also beautiful, smoothly curved. It is also desirable that the nebari do not protrude beyond half the diameter of the crown, so you will have to work a lot with them. The formation of above-ground roots begins from the first days of bonsai cultivation. They are shaped like an octopus using copper wire. It is better not to touch fragile and inflexible areas. After this, the nebari are sprinkled with earth so that they become stiff faster. No later than two months later, the wire is removed. This must be done very carefully, using wire cutters. The nebari is then covered again with a layer of earth.

BARREL THICKENING

The thick trunk gives the bonsai the appearance of a mature tree. To accelerate its growth in width, use different ways. To do this, the bonsai is regularly transplanted into a container for the first 3-5 years. bigger size, and then they begin to use flat containers, which leads to a natural thickening of the trunk. During the period of active growth, flexible but already lignified trunks are carefully bent at the base in different directions every week, as a result of which the tree begins to actively increase its mass. A bonsai with the same thickness along its entire length is tightly wrapped with wire, and after it begins to overgrow with bark, it is carefully removed. As a result, growths appear on the trunks; they overgrow over time, forming thickenings.

Sometimes, although quite rarely, the neck of the main root is tightened tightly with a wire loop. The juices in this part begin to stagnate, which leads to the appearance of tissue deposits. The operation is very risky and may result in thinning of the roots.

The thickening of the trunk is also facilitated by the growth of a large lateral branch in the lower part of the tree. It is removed only late stages formation of bonsai, even if it stands out from the overall composition.

The trunk should taper towards the top; for a twenty-centimeter tree, the ratio of its thickness to height should be 1 to 6. Please note that as your bonsai expands in width, it becomes more and more difficult to shape it.

PINCH

Pinching or pinching is one of the main methods of forming a bonsai crown. In spring, excessive development of shoots leads to the formation of new shoots and an increase in the spaces between leaf cuttings. The lower branches begin to weaken and die, and the upper ones begin to grow stronger and expand in breadth, and only the shoots at the ends thicken, while the others, the “axillary” ones, grow slowly. If this process is not controlled, the entire composition will lose balance. By plucking the tops of young shoots and stopping their growth, you can stimulate the formation of numerous small branches.

Pinching is carried out with fingers folded into a pinch or with tweezers. Overly strong shoots are trimmed with sharp scissors. In coniferous species, they are removed by 2/3 of the length; in representatives of a mixed forest, only 2-3 leaves are left, cutting off all the terminal ones.

Branches need to be given special attention; unplanned and unnecessary shoots appear in such places most often. As they grow, they disrupt the normal supply of nutrients to the old branches, which play a key role in the composition, and lead to their death.

On branches that are specially grown, more shoots need to be left, but when they threaten to turn into branches, they get rid of them. Weakened bonsai should not be pinched until they have regained their vitality.

Pinching begins immediately after the appearance of young shoots. Delay threatens to increase the gaps between the leaves and a sharp deterioration in the shape of the tree crown - especially in maple. Some types, for example cryptomeria or juniper needle require repeated pinching until September.

CUTTING

It is simply impossible to create a bonsai without resorting to pruning. Some modern Chinese craftsmen even now use this technique exclusively, and fundamentally ignore wire. Pruning is one of the most important operations in the art of bonsai; it is with its help that the tree is given the desired shape, achieving the correct correspondence between the root system and the crown. In addition, it promotes the best movement juices Remember that such an operation is a huge burden for bonsai, it can only be used on healthy specimens - and only those that have not been subjected to it for a year.

Trimming excess branches and shoots is one of the very first actions that are carried out on a tree when forming a bonsai. Beginners can be advised to start with fast-growing species that have small leaves.

At the first stage, in order to develop a sense of form, they make an arched pruning of the tree crown. Removing branches presents certain difficulties for beginners; it is not always clear what to leave and what to sacrifice. In such cases, it is recommended to simply close one or another branch with your hand and see whether the entire composition benefits from this or not. There are several general rules: feel free to part with branches located opposite each other, crossing, as well as weak and too thin.

While working, you will need special tools: nippers that can be used to trim branches of medium thickness and a folding file for thicker branches. Another nipper (concave) is used when processing irregularities remaining in the trunk from cut thick branches.

The cut areas must be immediately treated with the same products that are intended for ordinary garden trees, For example , liquid varnish-balm on acrylic base. It can be applied in damp weather or when juice is flowing from the wound. Another proven remedy - garden var, resembling putty. But before you coat dry cuts with it, wet your hands in water.

The most suitable time for pruning branches is considered to be winter or early spring, when all living nature is still at rest. If you start work during this period, your tree will more easily endure the operation and will not lose its juices. The thinnest branches can be pruned without harming the bonsai all year round.

Defoliation or removing foliage serves to renew and rejuvenate the crown. As a result of this procedure, the number of leaves increases, and their size noticeably decreases. By defoliating a tree, you can regulate it further development: the buds located in the nodes of the removed leaves will grow, while others will remain dormant.

Defoliation is carried out in the summer, once every 2-3 years, but not in the year of transplantation; the tree must be healthy and strong. The leaf blades are cut with sharp scissors in whole or in part, and the petiole is always left. When the work is completed, the bonsai is placed in a shaded area until new leaves appear.

USING WIRE

The invention of wire tying is considered the most significant event in the history of bonsai. This discovery was made by accident. IN late XIX century, an amateur from the city of Osaka sent his friend in Tokyo a miniature pine tree, the branches of which were secured with wire to avoid breakage. Thanks to such a happy accident, which greatly simplified the process of forming miniature trees, the ancient art received a rebirth.

It takes patience and practice to learn how to use all wire techniques correctly. Practice, develop your skills - this is the only way to achieve a good result.

When creating bonsai, you can use wire with a thickness of 0.7 to 7 mm. Decide on exact size A simple rule will help: the branch or trunk being fixed should be 3 times thicker. In other words, if you are working on a 1cm thick branch, use 3mm wire.

FRAMEWORKS

To give the branches or trunk of a tree the desired shape, a wire frame is placed on them. This technique is most often used when working with coniferous species, their bark is rough, marks from winding on it quickly overgrow. However, this process must be monitored and the metal must not be cut into the trunk and branches to prevent the formation of unsightly spiral scars.

Deciduous trees are usually formed by pruning; the need to use wire when working with them does not arise so often. On smooth-bore beeches, elms, maples and lindens, the wire frame should not remain on for long, otherwise the marks from the wrapping will be visible for decades.

At the first stage, all branches are fixed - up to the top of the shoots. The wire turns are applied at an angle of 45°. Make sure that no branch crosses another, each of them should have its own direction.

The best time to form a bonsai using wire is winter or early spring: at this time there is no foliage on the trees, it is easier to work with them. With the arrival of heat, the movement of sap accelerates, the branches and trunk thicken, so there should always be a small gap between the winding and the wood.

After about 3 months, when the desired shapes of the trunk and branches are fixed, the wire “scaffolding” is removed from the miniature tree. In order not to damage the bonsai, the winding is not untwisted, but carefully cut with special nippers.

STAPLES

Staples are used in cases where the usual application of wire will not give the desired result, for example when changing the direction of growth of thick branches and trunks. And for multi-trunk bonsai, you can adjust the entire composition in this way. To prevent the staples from cutting into the bark, they must be periodically moved, not forgetting to place pieces of leather under them.

STRETCHES

Guy wires are installed to pull down branches growing upward. This technique is not as labor-intensive as laying a frame, but even here you need to carefully ensure that the wire does not cut into the tree bark.

DEAD WOOD

REMOVAL OF BARK

Removing bark from branches and trunk is practiced to artificially age a tree, for example, when creating compositions in the style sarimiki. Such work can be done by people with experience, a sense of form and certain gardening skills. You cannot completely expose the branches that you are going to leave alive; you must definitely preserve narrow sections of bark on them, through which water and nutrients will flow to the foliage. Only those parts of the tree that are intended to be dead can be completely exposed.

The process of removing the bark is not particularly difficult, but then the bare areas need to be processed with a wood knife. Such an operation will require skill, so first it is better to practice on some cuttings, and at the same time carefully observe similar specimens in the wild. When starting to remove bark, prepare all the necessary tools: wood carving knives, pliers, concave wire cutters, sandpaper. Do not rush to use power tools, they make the job easier, but you need to get used to them so as not to damage the bonsai.

For bleaching, use a solution of lime sulphide with the addition of black paint. The solution should be applied three times a year, rinsing off old layer. Take precautions: sulfur entering the soil can destroy beneficial microorganisms. Do not touch living parts of the tree without washing your hands after using the solution.

SPLIT

Cleavage or Sabamiki used in cases where you want to reproduce the result of a lightning strike in your composition. In natural conditions, such specimens are quite common and, although they are no longer full-fledged trees, their appearance is very picturesque. To create a similar effect, the bonsai trunk is split with nippers and wedges, creating woody scuff marks - gins And sari. However, such an operation, like sarimiki, requires knowledge and experience.

TYPICAL MISTAKES WHEN FORMING BONSAI

It is impossible to avoid mistakes when growing miniature trees, especially for beginners. Mistakes should not discourage you; the pinnacle of art can only be achieved by constantly experimenting and listening to the advice of more experienced specialists. Below are some typical mistakes beginners pointed out by John Yoshio Naka, one of the greatest modern masters bonsai.

1: no vertex;

2: tree branches look like wheel spokes;

3: branch forming a “fork”;

4: straight growing branch;

5: branch resembling a stump;

6: branches located at the same level;

7: branch growing upward;

8: short branch adjacent to larger ones;

9: parallel branches;

10: branch growing in the wrong direction;

11: branch crossing the trunk;

12: branch forming a knee;

13: randomly growing branches;

14: branch with thickening;

15: intersecting branches;

16: rounded branches;

17: branch growing downward;

18: “U”-shaped branch;

XV: BONSAI TOOLS

The art of bonsai would never have reached such heights if not for the advent of many specialized tools and tools designed for growing miniature trees. Over time, they have improved and become widespread among amateurs all over the world.

The quality and price of these tools vary, but good ones are not cheap. This is due to the fact that interference in the life of a miniature tree can be compared to a serious surgical operation on the human body. Bonsai are fragile and vulnerable, you need to work with them very carefully, for this you need special tweezers, wire cutters, and knives. Moreover, using quality tools, you will form in a shorter time and with less effort beautiful tree, which will then be easier to care for. Of course, a small kit is enough for beginners at first; you can purchase everything else as needed.

In the bonsai tools market, preference is traditionally given to Japanese products - primarily due to the high quality of steel. IN Lately some tools are made of stainless steel, which puts even more pressure on the pockets of bonsai lovers. However, good carbon steel scissors or wire cutters are no less reliable if you remember to clean and lubricate them regularly.

BASIC TOOLS

necessary for pruning small branches and removing leaves in the thick of the crown.

are used in cases where strong shoots are difficult to tear off with your fingers.

They have thick blades that allow you to trim strong branches and roots.

Wire cutters : They provide a clean, symmetrical cut and have a rounded head that protects the branch from damage.

Concave cutters: designed to cut branches flush with the trunk, leaving an elongated indentation. The cutting edge of these pliers is razor-sharp, so the wound on the tree heals quickly. This is a very important tool that cannot be replaced by garden shears, which work on the wood from a different angle.

Convex cutters : are used for quick and clean removal of growths from the trunk and roots. The head of the pliers is made in the shape of a ball, which is why they are also called “spherical”.

Root nippers: They have reinforced blades that allow you to cut dense wood. These pliers are used for cutting roots when replanting bonsai.

Barrel splitter: This tool allows you to split wood with the least residual damage. Its head shape and symmetrical cutting blades provide both separation and cutting, resulting in a clean split.

Small saw: used for cutting branches that cannot be removed with scissors and pliers. The small angle of its teeth gives a smooth, clean cut. The saw blade is slightly curved.

Wire: copper or aluminum, the latter comes in two types - white and brown (anodized), its thickness ranges from 1 to 4 mm. Iron wire or that used in floristry is not suitable for forming miniature trees; it is not flexible enough and, moreover, rusts. Copper wire Before use, it must be annealed, that is, heated until red and quickly cooled in water, so that it becomes soft and wraps around branches more easily. When working with branches thicker than 3 mm, it is better to use aluminum wire, and for delicate shoots, use thin copper wire (up to 0.5 mm), which does not need to be annealed.

has a multifunctional purpose, for example, for grafting, layering, pruning strong roots and small trunks.

necessary when straightening particularly difficult branches of large bonsai. There are clamps different sizes, their design allows you to increase the pressure every few weeks or as the desired result is achieved. These tools must be used carefully so as not to interrupt the movement of sap in the branch.

needed for plucking needles, removing unnecessary buds, cleaning bonsai from insects, weeds and small debris at the base of the tree. back side The tweezers are shaped like a spatula, so they are also convenient for loosening or compacting the soil.

Master OK: helps compact the soil and fix the bonsai in the container.

Khasi: Traditional Japanese chopsticks are used to gently untangle the roots when replanting a bonsai.

Hooks with teeth: replace hasi when unraveling stronger and thicker roots without damaging them.

has many uses - from soil compaction to cleaning the base of trunks and containers.

designed to loosen or remove soil around the roots.

have built-in sieves that sift dust. They will come in handy if you prepare large quantities of soil in the winter and need to sift it before using it in the spring.

Sieve: used to obtain soil with different grain sizes.

Watering can: has a long spout and a fine mesh that cuts the stream of water when watering bonsai.

Spray: Used to evenly spray insecticides and spray the bonsai crown with water.

Garden mastic: a special product for processing fresh cuts, helping to avoid the formation of scars on the tree bark.

INSTRUMENT CARE

If soon good tools for bonsai are not cheap, it is worth making sure that they last longer. After work, be sure to clean them of dirt and resin, wipe scissors and nippers with alcohol. Cutting tools that you do not use for a long time should be stored in a dry place, having previously lubricated them machine oil and wrapped in wool fabric. Knives and wire cutters need to be sharpened from time to time; you can do this yourself using a grinding stone.

2013 www.site

Reproduction of material is possible only with written consent site administration.

There are only two ways to create a bonsai. You can either choose a formed tree in the store and then only take care of it. Or start creating bonsai yourself. For this purpose they are used indoor plant or specially grown seedlings.

For bonsai you need to choose healthy plants with a strong root system and a well-formed line of branches. Work on creating bonsai begins at the age of 2-3 years in the spring after bud formation.

Decide on the style you want to create. It is also necessary to clearly understand how the branches will grow after pruning. Remember that shoots located on the upper buds grow faster. The plant grows more actively in height than in width. Even on the lateral branches, the buds located at the ends of the shoots develop more actively.

This happens because more light falls on the outer buds and leaves, hence the increased development of the upper buds. The general growth trend of the plant also goes towards the light source.

The technique of creating bonsai can be divided into several stages:

1. The first thing to do is remove all dry branches. The lower branches should also be removed. Leave the main three. Ideally, their vertices should form an equilateral triangle. Next, trim the branches located between the main ones.

2. To create an inclined bonsai, you need wire. It should be soft, because you will shape it with your hands, but at the same time elastic enough to hold the branches and trunk.

3. Next, free the upper roots from the ground. After this, you need to tilt the barrel to the required angle. Fix the wire in the ground on the side of the slope. If you want to create a bonsai in a cascading style, and not just make a slope, then you need to bend the trunk strongly. Hold the tree trunk gently but firmly. Wrap the wire tightly around it, being careful not to injure the bark. Apply the turns so that the bent trunk does not come out between them, but not more often. The wire should reach the base of the main branches. Please note that it must support them in their normal position. Otherwise, the entire crown will hang, resembling a broom.

4. When wrapping branches, after each turn you need to straighten thin shoots that can break. Of course, additional branches of wire will be needed to create the desired frame. You can simply bend the sharp ends of the wire down. Or put pieces of eraser on them. This will prevent damage to the plant and help you avoid scratching your hands.

Choose the length of the wire so that it is no less than 1.5 times the area to be wrapped. It is desirable that the angle between the direction of the winding and the direction of growth of the shoot (trunk) be 45 degrees. However, this bonsai technique has exceptions. For plants with thin bark, fragile shoots or those with thorns, they do not use wire wrapping, but simply apply it to the trunk and tie it with woolen thread or soft insulated wire.

5. The grown bonsai plant must remain in such a frame in a given position for at least 1.5-2 years. This period is necessary in order to be sure that the barrel will not return to its original position. You need to keep the wire on the trunk for the longest time. It can be removed from the branches after 6-8 months. For thin branches, braided wire is required. The wire that is used for tying cords of household appliances is well suited.

If you decide to create a bonsai with protruding roots, then you will also have to use wire for this.

6. The plant should be transplanted from a pot into a container no earlier than it has acquired the required shape. Before transplantation, the following preparations must be made. Cover the drainage holes with plain clay shards (bulge facing up). Cover the bottom with a layer of moss or chopped fern roots. Next, add some soil mixture.

7. Inspect the roots. Damaged ones need to be cut off. How to distinguish them from healthy ones? Very simple. Healthy ones have a light cut. Root pruning involves not only removing damaged ones, but also forming the root system. After this operation, the roots should be evenly distributed in all directions. For plants with a weakly defined central root and a fibrous root system, simply trim the roots evenly, thinning if necessary. A special case is a root system with a long central root and weak lateral shoots. The image technique is like this. Remove the lower part of the root. We form the remaining part using wire or wire staples. Having fixed the root at the edge of the bowl, we bend it in a horizontal plane towards the center of the bowl.

Carefully place the plant into the container. Fill in the soil mixture, first straightening the roots. For plants that do not hold firmly, you need to fix the trunk by placing heavy pebbles.

Watering for the first time after transplanting should be very careful. After all, part of the roots of the plant was removed, which may cause rotting due to waterlogging. Very often the soil in the bowl becomes compacted and you have to fill it up. Once the soil has been sufficiently compacted and the tree has taken root, the supporting stones can be removed.

Growing bonsai is not just a creative hobby. Miniature plants are art, a living organism that grows and changes daily.

The ancient art of bonsai

« Bonsai"translated from Japanese as " wood in a flat vessel" It was first mentioned in Chinese chronicles about 2000 years ago. Dwarf plants decorated the gardens and houses of the nobility and were used for meditation, contemplation and reflection. Over time, the beauty and harmony of miniature compositions became an art that later flourished in Japan.

Japanese masters adopted basic techniques and methods from the Chinese, but it was in the Land of the Rising Sun that classical growing styles were formed. The formed bonsai should resemble a tree or shrub in nature.

Bonsai came to our country only in 1974 as a gift from the wife of the Japanese ambassador. Since the beginning of the 90s, their popularity in Russia, as well as throughout the world, began to grow. Amateur clubs, nurseries for cultivation are created, exhibitions are organized.

Types of plants for bonsai

There are many trees and shrubs suitable for growing plant miniatures. How to decide?

The most unpretentious and small-leaved ficus species that are excellent for first experience.

Ficus benjamina and ficus obtuse

Evergreen trees. They winter well in indoor conditions. They don’t retire, they just slow down their growth. They grow quickly, you need to periodically thin out the crown.

Experienced gardeners can expand their list with subtropical deciduous and.

An evergreen coniferous plant, in nature it grows up to 10 m. It grows quickly, most species are perfectly formed from an early age. Resistant to pests. used for outdoor bonsai.

Dwarf pomegranate

A year-round flowering shrub from the Mediterranean, the flowers are small and bright red. In indoor conditions it can bear fruit. Pomegranate is shaped in all Japanese styles.

More difficult to grow is a group of deciduous plants in the middle zone. For them you need to create special conditions for wintering.

More than 150 species are known. Maple is one of the symbols of bonsai in Japan. Valued for its beautiful decorative leaves, colored crimson in autumn. Light-loving, but can grow in shady places. Resistant to adverse conditions. Tolerates pruning well.

Blooming sakura (Japanese cherry) is a sight of special beauty. Its flowering in nature is celebrated annually in Japan as a national holiday. The trunk of the tree is red-brown in color with a dense crown. Bright pink and white flowers with a diameter of 1 cm are collected in inflorescences of several pieces. Grown as in open ground, and at home.

How to choose a bonsai in a store?

It is better to purchase plants at garden stores or nurseries. They offer two options: young plants aged 2-3 years, which need to be trimmed at home and transplanted into a flat container or a ready-made bonsai.

What should you pay attention to when purchasing?

Appearance of the plant

The plant should look healthy: have a good root system, a lush crown and a strong trunk without scratches or wounds. It is acceptable to have a few yellowed leaves on the lower branches of deciduous plants in the autumn, but plants with half-dead leaves should be discarded. The soil in the pot should not be waterlogged.

Presence of pests and diseases

They should not be on branches, trunk or ground. If it so happens that pests and diseases are discovered after purchase, then immediate treatment with drugs will prevent the spread of infection. The old soil is replaced by adding the drug Bazudin or Aktara to the new substrate to destroy the larvae.

What conditions are needed for growing?

Illumination

Plants have different lighting needs: some like constant bright light, others thrive in partial shade.

The location also depends on the orientation of the windows (north, south, west, east). Plants are placed so that the sun is available three to four hours a day. Every 2–4 weeks the containers are rotated 180°. In winter, if the shoots begin to stretch, artificial lighting is provided.

Humidity

Optimal air humidity in a dry urban room is maintained by regularly spraying plants and the air around them with settled water. Placing trays of water and aquariums near the bonsai tree has a positive effect.

Temperature

Temperature conditions throughout the year must be consistent natural conditions in the homeland of plants.

Plants of the middle zone in warm weather they are kept outdoors; in winter they are either left there covered or brought into a glassed-in loggia.

Subtropical plants in summer they are on the balcony, in the garden or near open window, during the cold period they are kept indoors at a temperature not exceeding 15°C.

Tropical A year-round temperature of 18°C ​​to 25°C is required.

The soil

Bonsai soil must retain moisture and provide the plant with oxygen and nutrition. Good substrate consists of peat, sand and humus soil(leaf or pine humus) in proportions corresponding to the needs of each species.

How to choose a pot?

The pot is the second most important element of a bonsai. Together with the plant they create a perfect harmonious image. Depending on the type of plant and style, containers can be of different shapes: round, oval, multi-faceted, deep or flat.

For example, for cascade style fit tall and narrow, for formal and informal vertical styles round, square or rectangular are best.

It is preferable to use clay pots of natural colors: brown, gray, black, white. It is important that the coloring is not flashy and does not dominate the overall appearance. Containers must have drainage holes for drainage.

How to grow bonsai from seeds?

Growing bonsai from seeds is a long journey, but some plants that do not take cuttings well or at all can only be propagated this way. These include: , cedars, maples, oaks, lindens, birches, elms, poplars and so on.

Seeds are prepared for sowing. Without pre-treatment, there will be fewer seedlings and you will have to wait longer for them. Conventionally, three groups of seeds can be distinguished:

1. Does not require stratification. Minimal processing required for seeds tropical and subtropical plants (coffee, ficus), as well as some deciduous, whose seeds in nature ripen in early summer and sprout by autumn. It is enough to soak them for a day in warm water. If the seeds have a hard shell, then to stimulate germination it is carefully sawed off, being careful not to damage the core.
2. Requiring cold stratification. This group includes plants that live in places where alternation between warm and cold periods is common. After soaking, the seeds are placed in damp sand, sphagnum, vermiculite and kept in the cold for one to six months at temperatures up to 5°C. Seeds are periodically checked to monitor the appearance of sprouts and prevent rotting.
3. Requiring warm stratification. Plant seeds, genus from regions with mild winters ( Southern Europe) after soaking and before cold stratification, they are kept for a month or two at a temperature of 15–20°C. Some of them are placed in hot water with a temperature of 40°C and left in it after cooling for a day. Then transferred to the cold. This is how plants artificially create an imitation of the change of seasons.

After seed treatment, sowing begins. You need flat, shallow containers with drainage holes and a lightweight substrate that does not retain water, for example, a mixture of peat and sand. To avoid rot and fungal diseases, the soil is watered with a fungicide. Seeds that germinate in the light are left on the surface, lightly pressed into the substrate. The rest are planted to a depth of 0.5 to 12 cm, depending on the size of the seeds.

At first, they only need moisture and warmth to germinate. The air temperature should be at least 25°C, after germination it is lowered to 18°C. In order to develop safely, good lighting and moderate watering are important for seedlings. Picking is carried out 3–4 weeks after germination, placing one plant at a time in small pots.

Propagation by cuttings

More quick way reproduction. Suitable for , boxwood, cypress, willow, ficus, cotoneaster and so on. When propagated by cuttings, all parental characteristics are preserved: the shape of the crown and leaves.

The best time for cuttings is March-August. The upper or middle part of the shoot, 8–25 cm long, depending on the type of plant, is taken and cut with a knife or pruning shears. There must be at least two nodes on the cutting.

The shoot is placed in water or in the substrate so that the lower node is buried. Roots will then begin to form from it. The soil must be porous, allowing water and air to pass through. River sand, perlite, peat, and sphagnum moss are suitable. When cuttings, growth stimulants can be used.

The cuttings are watered, periodically sprayed with water or covered with a jar or plastic bag. The room must be lighted, ventilated, with an air temperature of at least 24°C.

Rooting times vary; some species require more than one month. The appearance of young leaves in most species signals the appearance of roots. But for spruce this is not an indicator. Their shoot growth is faster than root formation.

After the roots appear, the plants are opened and ventilated daily. Transplant into separate pots after the plants have become stronger, after 2–3 months.

How to care?

Watering

The most important part of care. Most often, trees and shrubs die due to errors in watering. Water them as needed. The soil should be moist, but not dry or wet. Only the top layer is allowed to dry. Use settled, soft water so that mineral salts do not form a crust on the surface of the soil and trunk.

In winter for tropical and deciduous plants watering is reduced. Exception - conifers, since additional moisture saves them from dry air in the house. Watering for all species is combined with air humidification.

Fertilizer

Organic and mineral fertilizers without mixing them with each other. Plants are fed from spring, when they begin to grow, until autumn, once every 3-4 weeks.

Transfer

In the first year, the young tree grows freely; until 3–4 years old, it is replanted once a year. Afterwards, the regularity of transplantation is determined individually for each species.

The signal for the need for replanting is the emergence of roots into the drainage holes of the pot. The plant is removed from the pot, the lower and lateral roots are carefully cut off by 2–3 cm, planted in a new bowl and watered. The procedure is carried out in March-April, at the beginning of active growth.

Crown formation

The trunk and branches of the tree are the central parts of the image. The trunk should have a powerful base, gradually decreasing towards the crown. To form it, remove all branches that are unnecessary for the chosen style, the rest are shortened by at least 1/3.

The volume of the roots should be approximately equal to the volume of the crown. By trimming the crown, the roots are also shortened.

Regular pruning of branches keeps the tree miniature. When pruning, the lower shoots are left longer. Shortening the branches sets a new direction for growth - young shoots begin to grow from the buds located near the cut.

To significantly change the direction of branch growth, pruning alone is not enough. For getting desired result use wire. It is first attached to the trunk or the thickest branch, then attached to a thinner one. No more than two branches are secured with one wire. You also need to make sure that the wires do not cross and do not cut into the bark of the branch.

Branches that are too thick are secured with tension wire, both ends of which are fixed in loops of thicker wire, secured through drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

"Aging" of wood

You can give your bonsai an “ancient” look using:

Threads

Use a chisel or power tool to remove the bark from a certain area. These areas are then treated with a special cutter. This creates the effect of cracked old wood. This method is used only during the dormant period on healthy trees that have been growing in a pot for at least two years.

Creating cracks and scars

Using chisels of different sizes and a hammer, indentations are made on the barrel. Coal powder is rubbed into these places, the cracks will darken and look natural. Pressing a chisel into the wood and pulling it down the trunk will create a scar - a cavity rougher than a crack.

Imitation of rotting

Using a grinder, make several vertical cuts on the trunk, deepening them if necessary.

“Old” plants are protected, regularly watered, sprayed and not fed for a month.

Pests, diseases

Aphid

The first sign of infection is the appearance of a sticky light coating on the leaves. A quick and easy way to get rid of it is to wash the leaves with soapy water. Do this three times with a break of 3 days. If the aphids have bred, then use an aerosol insecticide. It is carefully sprayed on all sides and the plant is covered with a plastic bag for 30–40 minutes. The treatment is also carried out 3 times.

Spider mite

It feeds on plant juices, causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. For prevention, spraying is carried out more often. If a mite does appear, then they fight it, like aphids, with aerosol agents.

Whitefly

A small white butterfly settles on the underside of a leaf. If there are a small number of pests, the plants are washed with soapy water. If the colony of insects has increased, then pesticides are used.

Shchitovka

Hides on the bottom of leaves and young shoots. Looks like brown plaques. Remove the scale by hand, washing the plant well. The procedure is repeated as new individuals appear.

Mealybug

Pest white with fluffy skin. Forms nests of many individuals. Aerosol chemicals are used for control.

Powdery mildew

Fungal disease. Appears on leaves as white plaque. Control measures include the use of fungicides.

Root rot

The most common reason occurrence - poor drainage. Roots can also be damaged by frost and watering with concentrated fertilizers. The tips of the shoots begin to dry out.

The diseased specimen is carefully removed from the pot, the rotten roots are removed to the healthy part, and the cut sites are treated with foundationazole and a growth stimulator. It is recommended to temporarily place the plants in sterile sand until signs of decay disappear.

Anyone can grow a bonsai. One or more plants will be opened to the gardener the whole world, will take you on an amazing journey and help you find harmony and yourself.