Azalea rhododendron home care. Rhododendron planting and care, watering, fertilizers, pruning and propagation

Rhododendron(Rhododendron) is one of the most beloved profusely flowering indoor plants. It fits perfectly into any interior, filling the room with the luxury of flowers, aromas, and bright colors.

Undoubtedly, rhododendron- a very impressive, but not at all easy-to-care plant.

Our flower growers often call this flower in the old fashioned way - azalea (less often - alpine rose), although in all classifications it goes under the name rhododendron.

Perhaps because a female name is more suitable for this beauty with large velvety flowers in delicate shades?

Varieties

Azalea- a unique representative of the heather family, growing up to 50 cm tall and numbering more than 2 thousand garden varieties, of which two are most often cultivated at home.

« (Rododendron simsii) - ancestor indoor varieties, growing in cool and humid mountain forests. From it many hybrids have been obtained with bright pink flowers up to 5 cm in diameter, as well as other colors: yellow, white, cream, red, variegated.

(Rhododendronobtusumvar japonicum) - a shrub with smaller flowers, much less common. This plant is not as resistant to temperature changes and cold as the Indian azalea. Flower color ranges from white to red-orange. There are varieties that have flowers of different colors on one bush.

In addition to the bushes, there are hanging varieties alpine roses and topiary trees, which are grown in the shape of a pyramid. Indoor rhododendrons are usually evergreen varieties; deciduous ones are less common. During the dormant period, the plant needs coolness and shade.

The older the azalea, the more spectacular and abundant it blooms. True, save this wayward beauty until the next flowering very difficult. Rhododendron is a beautiful plant in appearance, but very picky.

Secret her long flowering and preservation until next year is to timely and abundant watering, diffused lighting and low air temperature.

Temperature and lighting

In room care rhododendrons prefer cool and very bright rooms with a maximum temperature no higher than +18°C (optimally - from +10 to +15°C).

In autumn, during the formation of flower buds, it is advisable to lower the temperature even lower - to +6°C (for example, take it to glass balcony or in the basement), and then increase it just before flowering.

Many flower growers resort to tricks to keep the azalea from getting too hot: water it with melt water and put ice around the edges flower pot. For example, at an average temperature of +12, azalea flowering will last 2 months, at +20 - only two weeks.

Rhododendrons that have frequent access bloom most profusely To fresh air – those that stand on the terrace (in the shade) all summer until the end of August, or all year round located in a regularly ventilated room.

But don't forget that indoor rhododendron, unlike their garden relatives, can't stand it large temperature fluctuations. It is sharp fluctuations in air temperature that often cause premature release of buds. Direct sunlight for azaleas is also contraindicated.

Rules for watering and fertilizing

For watering rhododendrons should only be used soft water. 10-20 minutes after watering, excess water in the pan must be drained, preventing its accumulation. During the growing season, watering should be abundant and frequent, and during the dormant period - moderate. In addition, the plant needs spraying (at least 2 times a week).

The soil should not dry out in the pot. If this does happen, try to “revive” your azalea by giving it a shower with a temperature of +28+30°C. Twice a month add to irrigation water a teaspoon citric acid: This is necessary to maintain the acid balance of the soil. Add acidic water immediately after regular watering.

Top dressing enough rhododendrons are produced in an unusual way. If most plants are fed 2-4 times a month, then this delicate flower needs such care daily.

Need to buy liquid complex fertilizer(preferably a special one for rhododendrons) and during each watering add it in small doses, based on the monthly norm divided by the number of waterings. During the period of increased growth and bud formation, add classic fertilizers, applying them every 20 days and alternating organic fertilizers with minerals.

Trimming

After withering remove the buds immediately. If this is not done, flowering will weaken. After the end of the flowering wave, cut each flower branch by 5 cm, and remove weak and elongated shoots completely. Such correct pruning will help your azalea produce strong new stems. After pruning, the plants are transplanted into larger containers.

After 3-4 weeks, after 3 pairs of leaves appear on young shoots, pinch the tops every escape. Repeat pinching annually, the last time before budding (July-August). When the first buds appear, pinch off side shoots.

Transplantation and propagation

After the first planting of a rhododendron indoor plant, caring for it involves transplant, as necessary, in the following scheme: up to 3 years – annually; after 3 years – once every 2 years.

Soil for planting It is better to buy, because its composition is quite complex: it is heather soil or a mixture of coniferous and peat with the addition of sand.

The appearance of moss on the surface of the soil or the roots entwining a lump of soil is a sure signal that the plant needs to be replanted.

Reproduce azalea stem cuttings in summer, when the temperature reaches +20-25°C. Choose young semi-lignified cuttings at the age of 4-5 months. and carefully cut at an angle.

The length of each cutting is less than 6 cm. Prepare the dishes: Place 3-5 cm of drainage at the bottom of the pot: shards or sand, pour a layer of coniferous soil on top.

Cut the 4 lower leaves from the cutting. Preferably before boarding place the seedlings for 0.5-1 hour in a solution of a drug that has a beneficial effect on root system. Then plant the cuttings in the ground to a depth of 1-2 cm and cover with glass or film.

While the seedlings are taking root, they needs to be ventilated at least 3 times a week, and 5-6 days before transplanting, remove the shelter completely. The root system develops within 1.5 months, after which the rooted cuttings must be planted in coniferous-peat soil. After transplanting, cover again for 1.5-2 weeks.

Possible problems

Short flowering. The reason for this may be excessively dry air, insufficient watering, or direct sunlight. Try moving the pot away from the battery, spray it with water more often.

The leaves are turning yellow. The presence of clay in soil or water. Switch to watering with acidified water.

The leaves are wrinkled. There can be many reasons: bright sun, dry air, insufficient watering, heat. Humidify the air in the room, remove the pot from direct sunlight, and increase watering and spraying.

Pests

Azaleas are often attacked by insect pests such as hairy aphids and Tarzanemus mites.

Hairy aphid– loves young rhododendron stems, sometimes switches to leaves. If the lesion is small, you can get by using a cotton swab dipped in soapy water. After 7-10 days, spray again with a soap solution or pharmaceutical tincture calendula.

Tarzanemus mite- a much more serious and annoying pest. It settles on buds, young leaves, flowers, and it is almost impossible to see it without a magnifying glass.

You can detect trouble only when the young shoots begin to curl, the leaves turn lighter and the long-awaited flowering does not occur. Fight the tick You can use an infusion of wood ash (500 g per 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours, strain). Repeat spraying after 7-8 days 3 more times.

Septoria– a disease caused by the Septoria fungus. Affected leaves develop grayish-brown or rust-colored spots.

If you don't pay attention to it in time, the leaves will dry out and fall off. Azalea needs to be treated Bordeaux mixture(1% solution) daily for 10 days.

Japanese azaleas are suitable for creating trees bonsai.

Blooming profusely and brightly, they look great in bonsai arrangements next to traditional conifers and herbaceous small trees. In the fall, take a plant that has spent the summer in a moist, shaded place, give it the desired shape and transplant it into a special bonsai container.

Trunk of rhododendrons It is quite strong and can withstand considerable loads when bending. This means that this flower also has a strong masculine principle. Therefore, the question - which name is more correct - rhododendron or azalea - will remain open for now.

Experienced gardeners claim that with proper care, an azalea can bloom so wildly that you can’t even see the greenery - only large, beautiful flowers. In Europe, rhododendron is solemnly called - "Flower of the Wise", believing that the contemplation of such beauty puts a person in a philosophical mood and makes him wiser. Well, just for this reason it’s worth getting this beauty at home and trying to raise it.

And for the most curious, we invite you to watch a video about planting and caring for rhododendron

For the many-sided rhododendron (azaleas), care at home is associated with certain difficulties associated with the proud nature of the plant. However, if you can provide the “rose tree” proper care, it will gratefully delight you with amazing flowering.

Kinds

Inhabiting the mountainous areas of the Himalayas, the Caucasus, Europe and America, the heather family has given us about 800 species of rhododendron. And only a small part of them are able to develop successfully in our temperate but cold latitudes. Among them are the deciduous rhododendron Molle, the evergreen Fortune, and the evergreen but blushing Russatum, which decorates alpine coaster our gardens. In the vast expanses of Siberia, Daurian rhododendron grows under natural conditions, which is often confused with wild rosemary.

Advice! Since the characteristics of the genus include the distribution of plants into evergreen and deciduous trees, bushes and subshrubs, you have to base your choice on these indicators.

Japanese rhododendron, which is a very branched deciduous shrub, is taking root well here. The evergreen rhododendron is also suitable for our gardens. It is dense, tolerates frost well, but grows very slowly.

In many European catalogs rhododendron is called azalea. Therefore, flower growers agreed that the azalea flower is a species of rhododendron growing in closed ground. They are used in home floriculture, decorating window sills, winter gardens and greenhouses. The exception is the garden azalea, but in order for it to take root in the open air, a lot of effort must be made.

For those who are interested beneficial features plants, it is worth taking a closer look at the Adams rhododendron, which has a tonic effect.

For lovers of luxury flowering bushes We recommend planting Katevbinsky rhododendron in the garden. The shrub, 2 to 4 meters high, during the flowering period turns into a huge ball of brightly colored inflorescence petals, completely covering green rhododendron leaf.

Deciduous varieties of rhododendron differ in their winter hardiness. These are Limon Lights and Mandarin Lights, with a rare lemon- yellow color and delicate aroma. Among the evergreen rhododendrons, it is worth noting such varieties as Haaga, Mauritz and Peter Tigerstedt.

Today, when the army of hybrid rhododendron is regularly replenished with new varieties bred by breeders different countries, the choice is so wide that you can decorate your garden with a wide variety of colors this plant.

However, not a single type of rhododendron can be said to be an easy-to-care plant. An azalea or rhododendron will get on your nerves, but will more than repay your diligence with lush, fragrant and beautiful flowering.

Landing

With the proper planting of rhododendron, we begin the path to a long and happy life in our garden.

The picky rhododendron flower does not like stagnation surface waters and responds to it by rotting the roots. Therefore, we are looking for a dry area, checked for excessive moisture.

The planting hole should not be deep, because the root system of garden rhododendron lies very close to the soil surface. The best composition soil for the plant - fibrous peat. As a replacement, you can use coniferous soil diluted with tree bark and pine needles.

Important! Rhododendrons do not grow on calcareous soils.

Apply fertilizers (ready-made mixtures for rhododendrons) to the prepared soil.

After removing the rhododendron seedling from the container, moisten the lump of earth, and only then lower it into the hole.

Place the root collar at the level of the soil surface, make an earthen roll around it: it will be useful for the initial watering of the plant. After two weeks, the roller can be leveled.

Important! To eliminate stagnation of water during irrigation, a good layer of drainage should be laid at the bottom of the hole.

Having mastered planting rhododendron in the ground in the open air, let's turn to the home beauty.

To plant indoor azaleas, choose northern window. The plant loves cool rooms, so if the windows face south, we will try to deceive the picky lady. Place pieces of ice on the tray or spray the flower with cool water. WITH early spring and until late autumn you can keep the azalea on balcony or terrace .

We don't mind the soil, we buy from flower shop specially prepared substrate for home rhododendrons. We monitor temperature fluctuations, since azalea does not tolerate sudden changes. We will tell you about other secrets of growing azaleas below.

Rhododendron care

Faced with a picky plant, many gardeners argue that for rhododendron, planting and care is a serious set of competently carried out actions.

Temperature

Direct sunlight is dangerous for species blooming in the garden, so we plant rhododendron along fence or under gazebo roof. It’s more difficult with indoor species. Azalea likes to be cool and scattered light. Read about how to maintain a comfortable +18-20 degrees for her in the summer in the section on planting.

Watering

Lack of moisture is especially dangerous for young plants. In the first year of rhododendron's life in the garden, take care of regular watering of the flower. On particularly hot days, do this every day. However, do not overdo it with the amount of water. Remember wet soil disastrous for the delightful mountaineer.

Watering azaleas at home is carried out with the same regularity as garden rhododendron. The only thing you need to do is remove it from the pallet excess water. Unlike garden species, home rhododendron loves spraying.

Remember! If your azalea leaf turns yellow or falls off, you have given the plant too much water. Reduce the frequency of watering.

Top dressing

Successful flowering of rhododendron, of course, depends on timely fertilizing.

For plants grown in the garden, fertilization is carried out 3 times a year. The first portion is brought in in early spring when the plant wakes up from winter hibernation. Then you need to fertilize the bush before flowering and feed the rhododendron after flowering, but no later than mid-August.

Useful for indoor azaleas regular watering liquid fertilizers, small doses.

Attention! Avoid fertilizers with chlorine and lime, they are harmful to rhododendrons.

Trimming

Rhododendrons have a naturally beautiful crown shape, but they also need pruning. When the bush grows, branches thicker than 3-4 cm should be removed to preserve the decorative appeal of the plant. Pinching the top bud will help stop the branches from stretching.

Reproduction

In domesticated rhododendron, propagation is carried out using cuttings and layering. Seed propagation is typical for wild representatives of the genus. At home, seed propagation is a complex process. That's why most gardeners prefer propagating rhododendrons from cuttings instead of seeds.

Seed material is semi-lignified parts of the plant. They are cut twice a year: in mid-March-April and from mid-July to mid-August.

The length of the cut shoots is approximately 7-9 cm. Three bottom sheets on the cuttings must be removed, leaving a tail of 0.5 cm, the remaining leaves should be cut in half.

Important! The lower cut of the cutting should be oblique and drawn just under the bud.

Immerse the finished rhododendron cuttings in a heteroauxin solution (2 tablets per liter of water) for 6 hours.

Fill the container for planting with layers of substrate: 1st layer – 2-3 cm of drainage from pebbles or broken shards, 2nd layer – 3 cm of coarse sand, 3rd layer – 8-10 cm of coniferous soil.

If planted cuttings are heated with 25 W lamps, they will root faster, on about the 40th day. Without heating, the process will take 60 days.

Diseases and pests

The most common pest of flowering rhododendrons is the rhododendron bug. It lays brown eggs on the bottom of the leaf, appearing as dark spots on the front side. To kill the bug, spray with diazinon.

The Asian garden beetle also causes enormous harm by eating away large holes in the leaves of the plant. Traditional pest is also dangerous garden crops, spider mite. They are also sprayed with diazinon.

Considering rhododendron diseases, let us also recall mixed chlorosis. The disease occurs from a lack of nitrogen and potassium in the soil. Appears on the leaves, indicating yellow spots along the edges and at their tips.

Important! Symptoms of mixed chlorosis are similar to the plant’s reaction to stagnant water. Check the soil under the plant

Hypothermia of soil and air can cause necrosis. When it occurs, the central vein of the leaf dies and the leaf itself turns brown. It is difficult to deal with sudden temperature fluctuations, so choose frost-resistant varieties.

And today there are just under a thousand species of rhododendrons growing in their natural habitat. Based on them, scientists specializing in breeding have developed a huge number garden varieties. The end of spring and the first half of summer marks the peak of rhododendron flowering; planting and caring for it are not distinguished by ingenious rules and sophisticated methods; they are quite accessible to a person who has not interacted with gardening before.

Landing tricks

Rhododendrons thrive in places protected from cold winds and mercilessly scorching sun rays. The northern and northeastern sides of houses or fences are most suitable, but when planting a bush near a building, you should remember that it should not fall into an area where it can be affected by snow and icicles sliding from the roof. Places next to trees with a shallow root system - spruce, linden, chestnut, birch and aspen - are absolutely not suitable for planting. But areas located close to trees with a taproot system - oaks and pines - are very favorable. It is also permissible to be close to fruit branches, but rhododendron should be planted at the periphery of the crown in order to provide it with sufficient light and precipitation.

Excessive selectivity and whims of rhododendron do not complicate care and cultivation, but do not forget that in open space it will be seriously damaged by uncontrolled wind and sunlight. Under their influence, in the summer the rhododendron buds become dehydrated and burn, and in the winter they become frostbitten. Irreparable damage is prevented by creating artificial shading on the south and west sides during the summer months and February-March.

From home to garden

Nature has endowed rhododendron with a compact superficial root system, so replanting, if the plant is properly released from the ground, will be painless at any age. This bush is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate excess water, and in wetlands where groundwater leak at shallow depths and require drainage. Most important point before planting - prepare the substrate, it is made acidic, loose and permeable.

No need to dig deep hole, the adequate size for it is half a meter in diameter and 35 cm in depth. It will require approximately 7 buckets of high-moor peat and 3 buckets of loam. The substrate ingredients are mixed and poured into the hole, where they are compacted. Then a hole the size of the bush's root ball is dug, the plant is replanted, and the space around the root system is filled with substrate. It is very important not to bury root collar, the rhododendron is planted at a depth similar to that at which it grew in the pot. After planting, the plant is watered abundantly and mulched with peat or pine bedding. In a couple of days it will become clear whether the rhododendron has taken root or not; planting, and caring for it, and the weather, and random factors can greatly affect this process.

Secrets of care

Properly planted, in a well-selected area and in carefully prepared soil, rhododendron will not cause any trouble, its care will be minimal. In the first year after planting, it is important to monitor the amount of moisture that reaches the plant. For irrigation, it is better to use soft water - river, pond, rain - water. Loosening the soil around the bush is strictly unacceptable, since its root system is easily damaged. Weeds are pulled out carefully by hand. Rhododendrons react positively to fertilizing carried out from the beginning of May to mid-June; they respond best to liquid fertilizers.

IN climatic conditions central Russia many exotic plants in winter they die if they are not covered. These include rhododendron; it requires special care for the winter. Dry oak leaves and spruce branches are ideal for covering low-growing species, and wigwam-like frames are made around tall bushes: wooden slats are placed in a cone, and its cavity is filled with spruce branches and dry leaves. Deciduous species are more resistant to cold and can survive the winter if they are simply bent to the ground. But in the absence of snow, they may also need shelter.

Queen of rooms

But not only does rhododendron feel comfortable in the open air, room care is possible, because scientists have developed a special variety of this plant - azalea. It is suitable for growing indoors and in greenhouses. Azalea is decorative and adored by both professional gardeners and amateurs.

It prefers light and does not tolerate deep shade, but in the bright sun it begins to wither and die. A brightly lit place, out of direct sunlight, is suitable for her. Room with diffused lighting - perfect option. In winter, azaleas are kept in a cool room and protected from drafts. The plant is transferred to warm room With high humidity when the buds appear.

Azalea prefers acidic soils; the soil in the container should be kept moist, but not wet, at all times. When the temperature drops, watering is reduced, and when the temperature rises, it increases. Feeding is carried out once every couple of weeks.

Just like before buying a puppy or kitten, before purchasing a rhododendron it is important to evaluate the possibilities - yours and land plot. Rose bush will become the pearl of the garden if you give it the necessary conditions. Or it could turn into a solid headache with a careless attitude towards him. You shouldn’t thoughtlessly chase fashion and buy a rhododendron; caring for it at home can only be done if you have free time and due diligence.

Azalea (rhododendron) is rightfully on the list of the most beautiful indoor plants. Bright flowers bloom in the depths of winter, adding a unique atmosphere to the room. However, this beauty is very whimsical and requires constant attention.

  • 1 Who is Azalea
  • 2 Planting and transplanting
  • 3 Azalea care
  • 4 Reproduction
  • 5 Reviews from flower growers
  • 6 Video: nuances of growing azaleas

Who is Azalea

The homeland of azaleas (or rhododendrons) is the humid highlands of the northern hemisphere. In nature, the height of these plants ranges from 10 cm to 10 m.

When in the mid-18th century, the Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus described 3 evergreen and 6 deciduous plants from this family, he classified the first as rhododendrons, and the latter as azaleas. Since then, rhododendrons that are grown indoors (at home or in greenhouses) are called azaleas.

This plant is quite whimsical. However, all the care efforts are justified by the luxurious flowers that azalea bestows on its owners.

The stems and leaves of the plant are poisonous; azalea should be kept away from small children and pets.

Azalea blooms very beautifully

Azaleas varieties

  • Indian. The main ancestor of varieties indoor azaleas- a natural species of Indian rhododendron, or Simsa, growing in humid mountain forests. He gave rise to many different hybrids. The flowers are large, bright, pink-red, up to 5 cm in diameter, usually located 2–6 in the leaf axils. There are other colors: white, yellow, red, cream, and two-color.
  • Japanese. The flowers are smaller than those of the Indian one. Japanese azalea is grown in the garden mainly in regions with a mild and humid climate. Flower colors are white, lilac, pink, red and red-orange.
  • Deciduous varieties. Series hybrid varieties, descended from the Pontian azalea. These are shrubs 1–1.5 m in height. The flowers are very bright: white, yellow, orange, red, pink. They bloom at the same time or before the leaves bloom. Winter-hardy, can withstand temperatures down to -29°C.

Photo gallery: azalea varieties

Deciduous varieties of azaleas are winter-hardy

Japanese azalea is grown in regions with mild and humid climates.

Indian azalea - the ancestor of the most popular varieties

Living conditions in different seasons (table)

Season Temperature Lighting Humidity
Spring Summer 10–15оС. This temperature is difficult summer time, even in middle lane Russia. Therefore, azalea rarely blooms in summer. Direct exposure to sunlight is unacceptable; diffused light is required. You can take it out into the garden and dig it directly into a pot in partial shade. 70–80%. Under the pot there should be a tray with damp pebbles or moss.
Autumn winter In October-December - 6–10°C (for successful formation of flower buds), in January-February - 15–17°C (this temperature stimulates flowering). Scattered light. Spray every day. The drops should be small, because large ones leave spots on the plant. During flowering, refrain from spraying.

Planting and transplanting

As a rule, azaleas are bought or given as a flowering plant. After the plant has flowered, the plant needs to be replanted.

Rarely found houseplants that need acidic soil with an acidity level of pH 4–4.5. For planting, it is better to buy special soil for azaleas (or acidophilic plants, i.e. those that love acidic soil), since it is quite difficult to collect it yourself. Don't forget about the drainage at the bottom of the pot.

When transplanting, tender roots do not need to be freed from the ground.

The azalea's root system is superficial, so the pot will need to be shallow and wide. The roots are very delicate, so the azalea is replanted by transferring an earthen clod. IN new pot then they just fill it up required amount land.

Azaleas up to 3 years old are replanted annually in late spring, and older ones - once every 2 or 3 years.

Azalea care

Watering

The soil in the pot should always be moist - but not soggy. For irrigation, it is ideal to use rain or melt water, or, in the absence of such, settled water. Since azaleas love an acidic environment, you can periodically add lemon juice to the watering water (5-7 drops per 1 liter of water). Many gardeners use this method of watering: they pour it not into the pot at the root, but into a tray, and the plant itself “pulls out” the required amount of water.

An azalea must have a tray under the pot - water should be poured into it

Top dressing

For feeding, you should use a special fertilizer for azaleas. Feeding schedule: in spring and summer - weekly (the fertilizer must be prepared in accordance with the instructions). In winter and autumn, when buds are forming, the plant should be watered with a superphosphate solution (15 g of substance per 10 liters of water).

The best fertilizer for azaleas is a special one, which can be purchased at a flower shop.

Trimming

Proper, timely pruning of an azalea bush is the key to high-quality, abundant flowering. Pruning is done in May. New shoots are pinched so that 4–5 leaves remain on them. If about flower bud a shoot appears and is cut off.

You can choose the type of crown - tree-like or bush-like. To make a small tree, you need to select the strongest branch (this will be the trunk), and cut off the remaining shoots. The trunk should be tied to a support for stability. When the height of the shoot reaches the right size, the top is pinched, after which the plant begins to branch. After this, you sometimes need to turn the plant, pinching the shoots, achieving a ball shape.

Pruning allows you to give the plant different shapes

To form a bush, shoots are pinched at a distance of 10 cm from the surface of the ground. To ensure uniform development of the branches, turn the pot from time to time.

In subsequent years, this form is maintained, and weak branches that thicken the crown and unhealthy branches also need to be removed.

Bush form of azalea

Flowering period

Azalea flowers are magnificent - their decorative nature attracts gardeners. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time; one inflorescence can easily replace a bouquet. The plant blooms in winter, bringing spring freshness into winter everyday life.

The bud, swelling, produces 2–4 buds. When the flowers fade, they need to be removed along with the flower stalks, then the bush will delight with flowering longer. It is also necessary to remove the seed pods, since the plant expends energy on ripening the seeds.

Blooming azaleas are an amazingly beautiful sight

Rest period

At the end of spring, when flowering ends, azaleas enter a dormant period. The plant is pruned, replanted if necessary, removed to partial shade or taken out into the garden. Watering, spraying and fertilizing do not stop.

After flowering, the plant is pruned, replanted if necessary, and removed to partial shade.

Table: care errors and ways to eliminate them

Problem Cause Solutions
Leaves fall The balance of conditions of detention is disturbed - too dry or too wet air, temperature too low or too high Control humidity levels and temperature
Spider mite If it does not bloom, spray the plant often (the mite does not like a humid environment), and when flowering, use a soap solution and chemicals.
Leaves turn yellow Chlorosis develops Acidify water for irrigation. Monitor the temperature level (15–16°C). Spray with Ferovit or magnesium sulfate.
Damage by scale insects (you can recognize it by the brown plaques that appear on the leaves) Treat with soapy water. At large quantities use chemicals for scale insects.
The leaves are drying Azalea moth (visible to the naked eye, has the shape of a caterpillar) Collect pests by hand. Treat the plant with a chemical.
Low air humidity Spray, place on a tray with wet pebbles.
Heat Observe temperature regime(15–16oC).
The plant is exposed to direct sunlight Provide azaleas with diffused lighting.
Insufficient feeding Adjust the feeding regime.
Little light Provide azaleas with good indirect lighting.
Root rot due to excess water Reduce watering. You may have to replant the plant: remove it from the pot, wrap the roots with thin paper to absorb excess moisture, and leave for 2 days. Plant in new soil.
Leaves dry out during flowering Not enough water Provide the flower with more water.
The leaves turn black Thrips damage ( small insect, not always visible to the naked eye) Treat with Karbofos (according to instructions).
Rhododendron mite infestation Treat with Diazinon (according to instructions).
The plant withers, does not bloom, or blooms poorly Poor quality soil Replant the flower in high-quality soil. Adjust the feeding regime.
The tips of the leaves turn brown Watering with hard water Use soft, settled water for irrigation.

Photo gallery: problems when growing azaleas

The cause of wilting may be poor quality soil.

Spots on leaves may be signs of chlorosis

There can be many reasons why leaves dry out.

Reproduction

Azalea reproduces:

  • seeds;
  • cuttings;
  • dividing the bush.

Propagation by seeds is difficult and difficult; this method is used by professionals.

At home the best way propagate azalea - cuttings.

  • For propagation, a semi-lignified cutting 5–8 cm long is required (they need to be cut from May to August).

    Cuttings are harvested after flowering

  • Treat a fresh cut with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin).
  • Plant vertically, 2 cm deep into an acidic substrate (for example, sphagnum peat).

    The cuttings are planted vertically, buried 2 cm in the ground.

  • Cover with a jar or film, periodically remove the cover for watering and spraying.

    For better rooting, you need to arrange a greenhouse for the cuttings

  • The temperature in the greenhouse must be maintained at 25°C and the lighting must be good.
  • The cuttings will take root in 1 month.
  • An azalea grown from a cutting will delight you with its flowering after 2 years.

    Video: rooting azalea

    Bush division

    Azalea can also be propagated by dividing the bush. When replanting, with the utmost care, a 3–4-year-old bush is divided in two and planted in another pot.

    The rhododendron plant comes from the Heather family. Translated, the name rhododendron means pink tree. This is a fairly well-known plant for growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.


    General information

    The plant is distributed in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only Carpathian rhododendron. But only there they call it in their own way “Chervona Ruta”. This species is listed in the Red Book.

    The rhododendron flower grows in nature both in groups and as single individuals. It is found on mountain slopes in swampy areas and in the tundra.

    Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrubby plant or trees. Height miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions, the height of which is about 30 meters.

    Leaves of the plant various shapes and in size too. The foliage is arranged in a spiral shape. The leaf shape is an oblong oval with slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or corymbs, sometimes singly. The corolla has a sunny or pinkish tint.

    The fruits are formed in the form of capsules with many seeds. There are about 1,300 plant species in the natural environment.

    Varieties and types

    This is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upward. The ellipse-shaped foliage is about 4 cm in length and up to 1.5 cm in width. The inflorescences are single, soft purple in color. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully appeared.

    Accelerating bush. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. The inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

    This evergreen bush with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds the height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.

    The accelerating species is about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink with splashes, the flower diameter is about 10 cm.

    This is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. In autumn it has a yellowish-red tint. The inflorescences are scarlet, sunny in color, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Flowering duration is more than a month.

    Quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are almost completely invisible. Height is about one meter. Inflorescences are bell-shaped. The color of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

    Is not large sizes bush up to half a meter in height. Adults of the plant have a dark gray bark tint. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Young individuals have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.

    The inflorescences of the species have a light pink tint and have no aroma. There are about 15 flowers in the racemes. Flowering lasts throughout the summer.

    Height is about 1 meter 20 centimeters. With a brown tint to the bark. The shoots are more accelerating in nature.

    The foliage is oblong and oval shaped. WITH inside the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.

    Not a large shrub. The shoots are spreading. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is olive in color, and the inside is a less clear shade. Inflorescences on high stalks, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, a fruit capsule with small seeds is formed. The aroma of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.

    Not a three-dimensional tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy on the outside. The leaves have a dark olive hue on the outside, and on the inside they have a chocolate hue with small fibers.

    The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. Beginning flowering, the petals have a pale pink tint, and by the end they acquire a rich White color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

    Has a spherical bush. A hybrid plant from Rhododendron katevsbinsky. The species was developed in 1851. The height of the plant is about 3 meters. The foliage is medium sized and elliptical in shape. Inflorescences with a pink tint and purple spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.

    Rhododendron planting and care

    The planting location should be slightly shaded. Preferably the northern part. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.

    Rhododendron is transplanted in the fall before the onset of frost. Also, replanting can be done at any necessary period, only a month before flowering, or after the plant has flowered in a few weeks.

    Soil for rhododendrons

    The soil for planting should be light, loose with good layer drainage It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilizer. High peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8:3 are suitable.

    It is necessary to avoid stagnation of moisture, otherwise the plant will die. The plant must be planted in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

    To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to add recycled sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted pine needles.

    At home, you can check whether your soil needs acidification. To do this, you will need to pour boiling water over currant or cherry leaves, and when the water has cooled, throw in a little earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if it is red, then it is normal. And if the color changes to green, then the soil is neutral.

    Caring for the plant does not require special skills, you just need to loosen the soil and remove weeds in time.

    Watering rhododendrons

    It is preferable to provide moderate moisture to the plant. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist to 30 cm deep. You can determine whether watering is necessary by appearance foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisturizing is necessary.

    Rhododendron loves fairly humidified air, about 65%, so it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.

    Fertilizer for rhododendrons

    The plant should be fertilized from early spring until flowering ends in mid-summer. Fertilize with cow liquid manure along with water in a ratio of 1:15. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.

    The most practical option fertilizers are used in early spring with mineral and organic complex fertilizers. During flowering with cow dung.

    Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.

    Pruning rhododendrons

    The plant needs to be pruned as needed to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches, about 4 cm thick, are rejuvenated.

    Plants that have not overwintered well or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.

    Sheltering rhododendrons for the winter

    It is necessary to cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. To do this, the bush is covered with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.

    Insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.

    Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings

    To do this, cut cuttings from adult large plants about 8 cm long. Place them in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.

    Periodically opening for watering and ventilation. Rooting occurs up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and pine needles.

    Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

    To do this, in the spring, dig a young shoot into a small hole about 16 cm deep and sprinkle it with soil, within summer period water, and when rooting occurs, replant separately.

    Rhododendron propagation by seeds

    The seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat to a depth of about a centimeter. Cover the container with glass and periodically ventilate and moisten the soil. The temperature required for seed germination is about 15 degrees.

  • Rhododendron does not bloom The reasons may be different, the soil may not be suitable, there is little light, a lot of nitrogen fertilization, leading to the growth of branches and leaves, but flowering does not begin.
  • Rhododendron leaves turn yellow from excessive moisture in the root system, it is necessary to monitor moderate moisture.
  • Rhododendron doesn't grow due to lack of fertilizers, not acidic soil or too much sun shining, and the plant suffers from the heat.
  • Rhododendron sheds its leaves The reason for this may be dry soil, unsuitable land for planting, or your plant is being attacked by pests.
  • The rhododendron withers and the leaves turn brown The reasons are most likely dry air and insufficient spraying. There may also be excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
  • Rhododendron leaves are pale green at insufficient lighting leaves become pale and faded. The second reason is the lack of watering of the plant.
  • The buds of the rhododendron did not open the reason is increased air temperature, optimal temperature for a plant indoors it is about 16, and outside it is within 22 degrees.
  • Rhododendron leaves have turned black The cause was the disease chlorosis, which manifests itself when there is a lack of acidity in the soil.
  • When pests appear on the plant , it is necessary to treat the rhododendron bush with an appropriate insecticide.