Homemade vacuum cleaner for a carpentry workshop. DIY cyclone from a barrel

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Making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands will not be difficult if you have experience working with tools. The installation, called a cyclone, acts as an effective air purifier from small debris and dust. Many woodworking machines are equipped with nozzles for chip removal. Homemade cyclone connected to this pipe.

People who were on the territory of industrial enterprises paid attention to the conical structures with their tops facing downwards. These are industrial cyclones designed to clean polluted air. The problem of creating a cyclone filter with your own hands worries owners of home workshops.

The operation of a cyclone is as follows:

Littered air flow it flows through a hose from the machine nozzle into a separate chamber;
Air enters the container through a side pipe installed at the top of the cyclone body;
At the top of the body, a flexible hose is connected to the vertical air duct and connected to the vacuum cleaner;
The vacuum cleaner provides traction to the air flow inside the device;
A vortex flow is created in the chamber, moving spirally along the walls of the chamber - from top to bottom;
Solid particles fall down into the chamber opening and then end up in the waste bin;
The purified air rushes upward, passing through the filter, and enters the vacuum cleaner hose;
At the end of the work, the accumulated debris (chips and dust) is removed from the storage tank.

Can be purchased ready product to clean the air from contaminants (sawdust, dust and debris), but the simplicity of the device attracts many minds to making a cyclone with their own hands. The variety of auxiliary materials, as well as the availability of universal tools, allows you to create cyclones of a wide variety of models.

A self-made filter does not take much time and saves cash. Let's present several options for making cyclone filters with your own hands.

Cyclone made of plastic buckets

As the body of the device, you can use 10 liter plastic buckets from water-based paint. Prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools

construction knife;
marker or pencil;
compass;
jigsaw;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
awl;
glue gun.

Materials

two plastic 10 liter buckets;
PVC water pipe and angle ø 32 mm;
car air filter;
glue stick;
construction plywood;
roofing iron;
self-tapping screws;
vacuum cleaner hoses;
wood glue;
sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a cyclone

Remove the lids from the buckets. One of them is cut in half lengthwise.
The pipe section is enclosed in a box-shaped plywood structure.
Plywood boards are glued together with wood glue so that the pipe fits tightly inside the box.
The space between the pipe and the plywood is filled with sealant.
Make a template from cardboard or thick paper that follows the curve of the side surface of the bucket in its upper part (70 - 100 mm from the lid of the container).
Having attached the template to the box, draw a bend line with a pencil or marker.
Using a jigsaw, cut the box along with the pipe, following the intended line.
The structure is leaned against the bucket.
From the inside of the container, use a pencil to mark the contours of the pipe opening. This is done in such a way that the pipe enters the hole at an angle downwards (20 - 300 from the horizontal)
An opening is cut out with a knife.
Holes are pierced with an awl along the perimeter of the leaning plywood from the inside of the container.
Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, attach the plywood frame of the pipe to the bucket through the holes.
After checking the reliability of the box, with outside Use a glue gun to seal the contact perimeter.
A circle is cut out of roofing iron with a diameter equal to the inner circumference of the bucket - at a height of 70 mm from the bottom. Marking is done with a compass.
The tin circle is cut in half from the center to the edge.
The outer edges of the cut are spread at an angle of 300.
The shaped insert is installed in the bucket by surprise.
A screw-shaped tin insert will promote the swirling of sawdust, shavings and dust, which will quickly be sent to the storage tank (1/2 of the second bucket).
The bottom of the top bucket is cut off.
The cyclone chamber is tightly inserted into the storage tank.
A hole ø 32 mm is cut in the lid of the top bucket. This can be done with an appropriate reamer or knife.
A pipe 300 mm long is lowered into the hole so that a pipe 70 mm high remains outside.
The joint is treated with a glue gun.
The side pipe is connected with a hose to the nozzle of a woodworking machine or waste collector.
The protruding pipe from the bucket lid is connected to the vacuum cleaner hose.
In order for completely purified air to enter the vacuum cleaner, a cylindrical air filter is placed on the lower end of the pipe.
A patch is cut out of tin along the outer diameter of the filter. The patch (plug) is cut out with three tongues.
Three strips of tin are attached to the tongues of the plug with screws or rivets, the upper ends of which are bent.
The bends are attached to the back surface of the bucket lid with screws.
The connection between the plug and the lower hole of the filter is sealed with a glue gun.

The cyclone filter is ready for use. As needed, the upper part of the cyclone is removed from the storage tank and its debris is emptied. The filter is periodically cleaned with a toothbrush, moving the bristles into the folds of the corrugation.

You don’t have to make a box-shaped frame for the side pipe, but cut and bend its outer edges. Then fasten the bent sides to the edges of the bucket hole with screws or rivets. But such a connection will be less reliable than the fastening described above.

Cyclone with figured insert

Take two plastic buckets - 5 and 10 liters. The cyclone is assembled as follows:

The top side of a 5 liter bucket is cut off with a knife.
The container is turned over and placed on a sheet of plywood. Outline a bucket with a pencil.
Using a compass, mark another circle, with a radius 30 mm larger.
Inside the ring, two holes are cut with a crown and the contour of the figured insert is applied.
The jigsaw blade is inserted one by one into these holes and a shaped insert and a fixing ring are cut out. The insert is an unfinished circle with an expanded base (100 mm).
The ring is applied to the back of the lid of a large bucket and outlined with a pencil.
The middle of the lid is cut out with a knife.
Use a drill to drill holes at the top of the small container.
The fixing ring is placed on the bucket. Using a screwdriver, screw the screws through the holes in the bucket into the ring.
A circle of lid from a 10 liter bucket is placed on the fixing belt with the side up.
The circle from the lid is secured with self-tapping screws to the fixing ring.
In the cyclone body, 2 holes ø 40 mm are made with a crown - on the side and on the top.
A square is cut out of plywood, in which an opening of the same diameter is made with a crown. The frame is placed on the cyclone body cover, aligning the holes. The frame is secured with self-tapping screws from the inside of the lid.
I install the shaped insert just below the fixing ring. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the outside of the container and go into the body of the insert.
Insert into frame PVC pipe, whose lower end does not reach the figured insert by 40 mm. At the top, the pipe should protrude 40 mm above the surface of the lid.
The side opening of the cyclone body is expanded in the shape of a horizontal drop.
A corner PVC pipe is glued into the opening with hot glue.
I put the chip ejector housing on a large bucket (storage) and snap the lid on.
A vacuum cleaner hose is inserted into the upper outlet. The side pipe is connected with a hose to the waste collection nozzle.
All joint seams are sealed with a glue gun or a syringe with sealant. The device is ready for use.

Many may have a question: what is a curly insert for? The insert forms the correct direction of air flow inside the cyclone. At the same time, the horizontal platform repels the air pressure upward and allows sawdust and other debris to gradually settle in the storage tank.

Chip extraction from the sewer riser

To make a chip extractor from plastic sewer fittings, you will need the following tools and materials.

Tools

angle machine;
drill;
glue gun;
riveter;
jigsaw;
construction knife.

Materials

PVC Sewer pipe ø 100 mm;
PVC pipe ø 40 mm;
hose;
rivets;
glue stick;
fixing rings - clamps;
two 2-liter bottles;
5 liter eggplant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a chip ejector

The neck of the sewer riser is cut off, leaving a section 1 m long.
The plastic bottle is cut, leaving a part of the cylinder with a cone, neck and stopper.
Holes are drilled in both plugs. The plugs are glued together with a gun and tightened with a clamp.
The cut bottle is inserted into the lower hole of the riser. The connection is sealed with hot glue and tightened with a clamp.
A hole ø 40 mm is cut into the side of the PVC pipe. A pipe 70 mm long is inserted into it. The joints are sealed.
3 circles ø 100 mm are cut out of tin using a jigsaw.
A hole ø 40 mm is cut in the center of each circle.
The resulting disks are cut in half.
The halves are sequentially connected to each other with rivets, resulting in a screw.
A PVC pipe ø 40 mm is threaded inside the spiral. The pipe is connected to the screw with hot melt adhesive.
The entire structure is pulled into the riser in such a way that top part the pipe protruded 100 mm above the riser hole. In this case, the auger must remain inside the cyclone body.
Cut off the neck and bottom of a 5 liter eggplant so that Bottom part the cone fits tightly onto the upper end of the sewer pipe. External diameter connections are glued with a gun.
The upper hole of the neck is glued to the outlet of the inner pipe.
A storage bottle is screwed into the bottom cap.
Hoses are inserted into a horizontal pipe, the second end of which is connected to the nozzle of the shavings and sawdust collector of a woodworking machine (circuit saw, router or other equipment).
The vertical outlet is connected to the branch pipe by the hoses of the vacuum cleaner. The chip ejector is ready for use.

The debris “flows” down the surface of the auger and ends up in a bottle (garbage container). The air, freed from solid inclusions, goes up the inner tube. To clean the drive, just unscrew plastic bottle from the cork and shake out all its contents.

Cyclone from a road token

The original method of making a cyclone from a road chip attracts many homemade enthusiasts. The shape of the chip is a cone made of fairly thick plastic.

Proceed as follows:

The bottom and top of the cone are cut off with a hacksaw or circular saw.
The chip is turned over and inserted into a suitable container, which will serve as a garbage container.
Measure the diameter of the upper opening and cut it out dense material round lid of the appropriate size.
A hole is cut in the lid with a crown into which a PVC pipe ø 40 mm is inserted.
Cut out a teardrop-shaped side hole into which a corner PVC pipe is glued.
All connections are treated with a hot glue gun.
The chip ejector is connected by hoses to a vacuum cleaner and a chip collection nozzle.

Upon completion of the work, the device is ready for use.

Do-it-yourself snail for chip removal

Power of a household vacuum cleaner for some types of processing wooden blanks may be insufficient. To clean large volumes of air, they make a snail-type chip extractor with their own hands. The body of the device resembles a snail shell in its shape.

Craftsmen make the snail body from two types of materials - metal and wood. Creating a metal body will require the use of a welding machine and the ability to handle this equipment. There is another way - making a snail from construction plywood.

To work with plywood in a home workshop, you need to have a jigsaw, drill and other woodworking tools. The most important detail exhaust fan is the air intake wheel. It is made from lightweight materials such as wood, plastic and the like. The impeller is assembled in such a way that the blades are curved or rotated with the inner edge relative to the wheel radius line by 450.

The outlet hole is connected to the cyclone filter using adapter couplings and hoses. The axis of the air intake wheel is connected directly to the electric motor shaft or a belt drive is installed, which is preferable to coaxial joining. Firstly, the pulley on the wheel axle is easier to isolate from the side opening of the volute, which increases the performance of the device. Secondly, the removal of the electric motor contributes to its necessary cooling.

The feasibility of using snails is due to large production volumes. The engine power is selected in accordance with the operating mode of the exhaust fan. Usually it is enough to install a motor with a power of 5 kW to 30 kW asynchronous type. It is advisable to connect the power unit through a shaft speed control device.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself cyclone filter not only ensures cleanliness in your home workshop or living space, but also protects the respiratory tract and lungs of the people around you. The existence of various “recipes” for making a cyclone with your own hands confirms that, if desired, every lover of making homemade products can do this.

It all started when I started falling asleep with sawdust. Any operation with a power tool generates sawdust. I tried to immediately use a Karcher construction vacuum cleaner, but it stopped working after 5 minutes of operation - the filter simply became clogged. Therefore, it was decided to make the vacuum cleaner myself. Honestly, this is my third vacuum cleaner, and there will be many more, people ask me to repeat it.

It all starts with the container. It was decided to make the container ourselves because I couldn’t find a 100-liter barrel that was light and non-constricting. So I made a frame out of plywood and filled it cellular polycarbonate. There is a ring inside to prevent the barrel from collapsing.

Using a milling compass, I cut rings and made a separator body, into which a flow of debris enters tangentially and, under the influence of centrifugal force, falls through a slot down the barrel. I foolishly took fiberboard for a round wall, don’t repeat my mistakes! 3 or 4mm plywood is better for this. The pipe is made of 50mm plumbing pipe.

The separator is covered on top with a lid with a hole on which the filter housing is mounted. The filter element is used from an injection VAZ car, their price is affordable.

A motor from a powerful vacuum cleaner with a native damper ring is mounted on the cover of the filter housing, which reduces sound and vibration.

To prevent the barrel from being crushed when the hose is blocked, a safety valve. Simple and reliable design, you can even adjust it :)

The body is covered with Shumka. A switch and sockets for connecting power tools are installed.

An autostart unit for a vacuum cleaner from a connected load with a shutdown delay has been assembled. A kind of current relay. :) The photo shows a prototype.

Here is a photo of the vacuum cleaner test. Near Karcher. It has wheels from an old chair to carry around with you :) And a handle to shake it out.

The vacuum cleaner took its place on a stand in the corner and only comes out for cleaning. The hose from it goes to the ceiling along with a cable for connecting the tool and reaches all the working surfaces of the workshop.

I'll post photos of my vacuum cleaner's other bros. First option. He has been working in someone else's garage for a long time, the owner asks to repeat it :) 25 liter bucket. A trial version without any frills, pure functionality.

My father has this terrible monster. Not a very stable structure, but he's just a beast! When the air is blocked, half a meter of hose is sucked in and the bucket collapses. :)

In the woodworking industry, the dust and chip removal system is an invariable component of the general technical equipment of workshops and therefore must be calculated, designed and installed in accordance with a number of established rules.

Why is a dust extraction system so important?

Joinery processing is always associated with abundant formation of by-products. It would not be an exaggeration to call the amount of dust and shavings released mind-blowing, because dust suspension in woodworking workshops is a real scourge that both home and professional craftsmen overcome with varying degrees of success.

But what exactly is the need and complexity of wood waste disposal? They are represented by a combination of a number of factors, each of which requires the solution of rather specific problems:

Problem No. 1: low weight of waste products. Unlike the metalworking industry and even work with polymer materials wood shavings and dust are very light, they settle slowly under the influence of gravity, and the particles bond extremely poorly with each other due to static electricity.
Problem No. 2: the complexity of the technological process. Even in a modest carpentry workshop there is an impressive list of processing equipment: planers, surface planers, sawing machines, milling and grinding machines - each technological unit serves as a source of chips and dust. With such diversity, it is extremely difficult to organize an aspiration system.
Problem No. 3: high diversity of waste fractions. During the processing process, chips, large and small shavings, sawdust, dust and powder may be formed. It is difficult to imagine a single filtration system, at each stage of which particles of a certain size are retained, while the creation of a universal filter seems an even less likely prospect.
Problem No. 4: impact on processing quality. Both chips and microscopic dust can build up on cutting edges or adhere to the surface of the part. All this negatively affects the cleanliness of the surface, and also increases the likelihood of contamination of the functional components of the equipment.
Problem #5: Processing by-product hazards. This is not at all about the fact that a colossal amount of dust settles on tools and materials or harms the respiratory system. And not even that the abundance of flammable particles is a negative factor fire safety. Explosions in woodworking workshops are truly catastrophic, because a suspension of finely dispersed flammable particles in the air is nothing more than an aerosol-type explosive, similar in destructiveness to a gas-air mixture. No kidding.

The conclusion from the above is this: any facility in the woodworking industry must be equipped with a dust and chip removal system, and it is desirable that the implementation of such a system be carried out at a professional level.

General configuration

In general, two types of aspiration systems can be distinguished. The first is local filter complexes, which are equipped with each unit of installed processing equipment. The advantages of local installations are most obvious when equipment is located at a significant distance on spacious sites. There is no need to lay main channels, there is no need to organize an air pump unit with increased power. At the same time, it is observed obvious benefit in energy saving, because the local filtration unit works only when a certain piece of equipment is activated.

Centralized chip and dust removal systems are also not without their advantages. They are most advantageous to use in cramped workshops, where space is limited and the equipment layout is as compact as possible. Each unit of processing equipment is connected to a main exhaust system, which operates almost all the time the workshop is open, at least if at least one of the machines is in use. Advantages centralized systems aspirations are most obvious when production is highly loaded, but this approach requires high-quality organization of the technological process. It is worth noting that a general system for removing woodworking by-products requires less investment during organization, but entails more significant costs during use.

At the same time, the organization of hybrid systems is not prohibited. Let's say the most involved parts of the complex, such as a circular saw, surface planer, milling machine and others like them can be combined with a common dust removal system. At the same time, machines used from time to time, for example, a grinder or drum grinder, have their own local filtration units. Key Rule is this: the issue of organizing a system for removing chips and dust should be placed at the forefront when creating a closed woodworking workshop and carefully thought out before final decision on the placement of equipment and approval of the technological cycle.

Which air pump to choose

The heart of the entire aspiration system is the air pump. Regardless of whether the system is local or centralized, its effectiveness depends entirely on the performance of this node. You can offer several options: an industrial vacuum cleaner, one or more ducted blade fans, or one centrifugal one.

In home workshops, vacuum cleaners are most often used as the central unit of the aspiration system. This is explained quite simply: firstly, the performance of such equipment is often quite sufficient, and secondly, the vacuum cleaner itself can be used to clean the workshop, or quick cleaning workplace and tools. For such purposes, both industrial (construction) vacuum cleaners and household electrical appliances with a power of over 2-2.5 kW can be successfully used. It should be noted that there is a big difference between a vacuum cleaner and a chip extractor, but we will touch on this topic in more detail a little later.

Another type of aspiration system involves the use duct fans high power. In essence, this option represents an attempt to adapt equipment for uncharacteristic purposes; however, such projects have the right to life and, moreover, are successfully used in home and small production workshops. It must be remembered that ducted blade fans are extremely vulnerable to the presence of solid particles in the pumped air flow, so they are always installed at the end of the cleaning cycle, in other words, such an air pump pumps already purified air, despite the fact that all elements of the system operate in vacuum mode, but not pumping.

It is better to talk about the key parameters of the pump unit in the context of comparing modern vacuum cleaners and chip extractors. There are three such parameters: power consumption, the volume of air moved, or simply productivity, and the vacuum created. Without going into technical details, the vacuum cleaner is more designed to remove particles from the surface, while the chip ejector is focused on capturing particles suspended in the air that fly out from under the working tool, be it a cutter, saw blade or sanding belt. Among other advantages of the chip ejector, it is necessary to highlight the presence of a collection bag of impressive volume, as well as the undemanding nature of the system as a part of the separation unit, that is, a cyclone separator. Wherein centrifugal fans, which are used in the vast majority of chip ejectors, greatly lose performance if the pipeline system has a narrowed cross-section. Vacuum cleaners as part of a general aspiration system require plugging of terminals on equipment that is not currently in use. Therefore, systems based on vacuum cleaners are best used in conjunction with hand tools or, for example, grinding machines, where the gripping area should be located as close as possible to the processing area for maximum effective removal fine dust, which poses the greatest danger. In turn, centrifugal fans are especially useful due to the ability to pump air even with a high content of coarse particles, because the “snail” motor is located outside the flow.

Pipeline steel and flexible channels

Both centralized and local aspiration systems require connecting pipelines, through which waste is moved from the capture zone to the filter unit. The list of materials suitable for constructing a pipeline system is very wide.

Initially, flexible ventilation ducts. They consist of a polyethylene or polyurethane shell reinforced with a spiral reinforcing cord. Flexible pipelines have become so widespread due to their ease of installation, low cost, lack of need to use rotary fittings and the ability to quickly change the system configuration. One of the most important advantages of flexible channels is the smooth rotation of the frame, which reduces the overall aerodynamic drag.

However, flexible piping is not without its drawbacks. We must not forget that there is a fairly strong vacuum inside the channel, especially if the system is connected to a powerful air pump. If most of the outlets of the aspiration system are plugged, the pipeline may simply collapse; such cases are by no means rare. Also due to the small mechanical strength Ducts are not recommended to be laid on the floor or in areas where they could potentially be damaged. The most budget-friendly representatives of corrugated hoses have an internal ribbed surface, which is why when the aspiration system is operating, the pipeline begins to whistle quite noticeably, while the resistance to air flow increases. They are also very prone to dust sticking to the walls due to the accumulation of static charge.

The advantages and disadvantages of rigid pipelines are exactly the opposite. Yes, in this case, a reliable fastening system is required; there will be more connections, but due to the smooth internal surface of the pipes, there are no blockages, sticking of wet chips and a decrease in flow rate. It is necessary, however, to remember that in terms of cost, a rigid steel will be significantly more expensive than a flexible one, and besides, the equipment connected to the aspiration system will remain immobilized. In view of the latter, a combination of rigid and flexible pipelines is often practiced: a dust removal system line is laid along the ceiling from metal or PVC channels of round or square cross-section, and then, using special branch fittings, a transition is made to corrugated hoses for connecting equipment.

Filtration systems

The most important functional element of the aspiration system after air pump— unit for filtration, absorption and disposal of processing by-products. In this regard, there are quite a large number of variations, but only a few are suitable for home workshops.

First and most important element— separation filter, otherwise called a cyclone. Its main purpose is to separate the largest fragments, such as shavings and wood chips, so that only a suspension of small particles enters the further cleaning cycle. The design of the cyclone filter is primitive, which is why many craftsmen make it themselves, however, the purchased version provides additional advantages. For example, thanks to a distributed supply, more efficient particle deposition is achieved, and some models provide the possibility of wet absorption, which reduces the amount of fine dust at the outlet.

Sometimes aspiration systems do not have a filter element other than a cyclone filter. For example, if air is discharged outdoors, a fine filtration system is simply not required. This approach is not always reasonable: in winter time when working exhaust system with a powerful air pump, heat is released from the room almost instantly, which forces the installation of fine filters. In the simplest case, these are ordinary collection bags that retain the bulk of fine dust; this option is most typical for local installations. Top quality Air purification is characterized by dust removal systems, the main unit of which is a vacuum cleaner with two or more cleaning stages. Mainline vacuum cleaners can also be equipped with a wide range of cleaning elements, although paper bags and pleated air filters similar to automobile ones are most often used.

Catchers and other components

In conclusion, it is worth talking about those elements that are given the least importance, although their importance cannot be overestimated. We are talking about all kinds of bells, receiving funnels and casings, as well as the appropriateness of their use with this or that type of equipment.

As already mentioned, when working on grinding machines, an impressive amount of microscopic dust is generated. When connecting an aspiration system to such equipment, the main emphasis is on capturing the smallest particles, while large chips can freely fall to the floor and then be collected manually or a vacuum cleaner. If you use receiving funnels in such cases, the air flow from the working body itself will create turbulence and the capture of fine dust will only be possible if the suction is strong enough. The most reasonable thing to do would be to eliminate the suction bell and place the suction pipe in close proximity to the treatment area.

But where sockets are really needed is in milling, turning and sawing machines, as well as on planing equipment. Here the main emphasis is on drawing in large chips and sawdust, so the best option will equip work area a receiving casing that follows the shape of the working body as accurately as possible and fits as tightly as possible to the stationary surfaces. Please note that the optimal total cross-section of the gap on all sides of the casing should be 1.5-2 times larger than the nominal diameter of the channel through which the machine is connected to the dust removal system. At large values The use of sealing brushes is recommended, this is especially important for milling equipment.

The process of mechanical processing of wooden workpieces is always accompanied by the release of dust or the scattering of shavings and sawdust. Modern power tools provide the ability to connect any installations for collection and disposal wood waste, but purchasing them for household needs is not always justified. At home, it successfully copes with the problem of dust removal homemade device. Let us consider in detail the procedure for making a vacuum cleaner for the workshop.

Required materials and tools

The basis for the project is an old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
Motor part;
Power regulator;
Power cord;
Suction hose;
Nozzles

For the homemade body, select a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50–80 liters, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
A piece of plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
M6 bolts and nuts – 14 pieces each;
Strip of galvanized sheet metal;
Air filter from a minibus;
220 Volt switch;
Threaded rod with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue rods;
Drain corrugated hose for washing machine;
Electrical installation corrugation HDPE 32.

Docking units are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the pipes on the tools and the diameters of the vacuum cleaner intake hoses. List of tools used:
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Wire cutters;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Caulk gun.

The process of making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop
Stepping back approximately 100 mm from the top, mark a hole on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drill it using a drill. Then use a knife to give the hole an oval shape so that the inner end of the pipe is placed close to the wall and points down at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using a glue gun, fix the pipe in place.

Using the same “hot” method, an adapter for the suction hose is attached to the outside of the pipe.

Using a jigsaw, cut out two circles from plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. First, two holes are made in the blanks for bolts and the parts are secured on both sides of the cover. Next, drill the remaining holes, remove the circles and remove the burrs with sandpaper. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the workpieces, place the parts on the lid and fully install the fasteners. A hole is made for the pin in the center of the plywood circles, and a little to the side for the air intake of the motor block.

Remove from the air filter with pliers metal mesh, otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with cleaning the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is covered with a plywood plug.

The prepared filter element is secured to the stud with a wing nut.

The motor part, as a rule, has a round shape. Therefore, for ease of installation, the plastic parts in which the motor was located are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner. Thanks to them, to secure the unit to the barrel lid, you only need one clamp, made from a strip of tin.

A switch and power regulator are placed next to the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. All that remains is to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with the plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, apply power and check the operation of the device.

The standard suction hose of a household vacuum cleaner is too short; it is extended with a corrugated tube for laying wiring or another similar product.

Manufacturing of nozzles and adapters

Cleanliness in the workshop begins with the workbench. To clean the workplace, use a standard brush that comes with the household appliance.

The nozzle is connected using a rubber adapter cut from a tube of appropriate caliber, for example, from a pipe of a car’s cooling system.

One of the most littered power tools is the power planer. The outlet fitting of the tool is large enough; most likely, the vacuum cleaner hose will connect without problems.

The design does not provide a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often to prevent the vacuum cleaner from overfilling.

Cleanliness and order in a home workshop is the result of work done with your own hands, achieved with a minimum of financial investment.

From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you; in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and also does not contribute to workplace hygiene. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust; some of it is still inhaled; secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeding the calculated values will greatly affect the service life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found it on thematic forums interesting solution- use cyclone filter in combination with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people assemble cyclone filters from traffic cones, others - from sewer pipes, the third - from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the common problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a flow rate of air created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the “carousel” into the container and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain herself.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the desired location. I wanted to do mobile installation on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.

In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve precise setting of the angles.

It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.

At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and the wooden planks will be secured using self-tapping screws.

Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s hard to say how long it took to dry in the winter, but when I returned to the studio by the evening of the next day, the paint was dry. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not the freezing temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.

In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. 5 meter ratchet strap foreign production cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type castle lying next to me Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.

At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

I purchased a bagless, almost two-kilowatt monster as a household vacuum cleaner. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found an excellent option for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone goes to street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust are flying everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and these were particularly light and volatile fractions.

I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving to new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
I purchased a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:

On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble the box yourself the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.

The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double-sided foam tape.

The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out more.

It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.

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