Swing gates - manufacturing and installation on your own. Sliding portal supports

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Swing gates - manufacturing and installation on your own. Sliding portal supports - installation

Acquaintance with the house begins from the gate. Essentially, this is the owners’ business card. Therefore, their appearance should, by definition, be solid and beautiful. But, at the same time, their main purpose is to ensure the safety and security of private country houses and dachas.

How to combine these two purposes together? How to make swing gates for your dacha beautiful, reliable and functional. What types of swing gates are there and which ones are better to choose? How to make and install. About all this in detail step-by-step instruction in our article.

Before we move on to describing the process of installing gates, we will focus on their pros and cons.

Advantages of swing gates:

simple design;
relatively low price;
undemanding in maintenance;
long service life;
strength;
ease of operation;
unlimited choice design solutions and shapes;
no need for concreting the site. For example, under the rollers for;
possibility to install automation.

Flaws:

the need to provide quite a lot of space for opening and closing;
the need to take into account the wind load in the region.

Simple arithmetic shows that swing gates have significantly more advantages. And the shortcomings are removable or not critical. The long history of their existence only confirms the reliability of the system.

Swing gate design

No matter what materials appear, no matter how the fashion for decorating gates changes, the basic principle of their arrangement remains unchanged. Structural device:

pillars (racks). In fact, they are not gates, but they are supports for their fastening;

frame for swing gates. Wood or metal can be used in its manufacture. The latter is more popular because gives the frame greater rigidity;

finishing (cladding) material for cladding;

loops;

latches and locks.

So, we have decided what swing gates are and what features they differ from.

Making swing gates - tools and materials

Having made sure that we can make them ourselves, we will begin construction.

Required tools for making swing gates and consumables to him.

Tool

Mandatory for the manufacture of the frame and arrangement of racks:

Bulgarian. Designed for cutting and grinding metal workpieces;
threaded discs;
grinding discs;
welding machine;
electrodes;
roulette;
building level;
corner;
hammer;
shovel;
Master OK.

Auxiliary:

compressor, spray gun or brushes for painting racks and/or gates;
drill. If necessary for fastening the gate trim;
rivet, as well as rivets for it.

Material

pipe for making a frame. It is preferable to use a profile pipe 60x40x1.5. 40x20x1.5 will also do. The final choice depends on the finishing material and taking into account the wind load;

pipe for making racks. Here you should also be guided by the weight of the finished gate.

gate weight is within 150 kg. and below. A pipe 80x80x4 is suitable;
gate weight from 150 kg to 300 kg. Pipe - 10x100x5;
The weight of the gate exceeds 300 kg. Pipe -140x104x5.

Tip: You can use brick, concrete or even wood for the racks. In any case, correlate the properties of the material with the expected load.

hinges for swing gates. They can be adjustable or unregulated. Must be made from quality material and have the ability to withstand significant loads;

locks. Can be mechanical or electromechanical. The choice is discretionary;

dye. Needed for painting racks and/or trim;

sheathing There is also complete freedom of choice here. The main thing is that it is to your liking and affordable;

automation for swing gates. To be able to do automatic gates. You can not install it at all or install it later. But, if its installation is expected, even in the distant future, it is better to make the frame of the swing gates more durable.

How to make swing gates with your own hands

Do not think that homemade is a synonym for the words “ugly” and “unreliable”. Quite the opposite - homemade swing gates mean creativity, individuality and concern for your own safety.

Sequence of work.

stage - installation of racks for hanging gates.
stage - manufacturing swing gates.

The stages, of course, can be changed. But the installed racks (posts for swing gates) must last at least a week. In order not to prolong the pleasure, the waiting time can be occupied by welding the gate.

Stage 1 - installation of swing gate posts

The following can be used as a stand:

profile pipe. The choice of pipe cross-section is justified above in the “materials” section;

concrete pillar - purchased or poured on site;

brick or a natural stone. The latter is used more for cladding due to its non-standard dimensions;

wooden beam (100x100).

Methods for installing poles/racks:

The pipe can be driven to a depth of about one and a half meters

This installation method is the fastest, most cost-effective (no concrete costs), and it is possible to replace the stand. The main thing when constructing pillars using this method is to maintain the level. This will prevent the gate from skewing.

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Strengthen the support pillar with concrete (concrete), i.e. make, a kind of foundation for the base of the gate.

We will describe the second one, because the first requires brute force and suitable soil.

Installation of gate posts

Execution sequence:

Dig or drill with an earth drill a pit at least 1 meter deep. The diameter of the drill must be at least 200 mm, with a pipe cross-section of 100x100.
The depth depends on the depth of soil freezing in the installation region. The width of the sides is determined by the quality of the soil and the dimensions of the supports (pipe, wood, concrete).
We arrange a sand and crushed stone cushion under the concrete. Its height is 150-200 mm. The purpose is to prevent the post from deepening and to create a foundation for concreting.
We install the post and level it using a building level.
Prepare the concrete and pour the stand.

Concrete pillars must withstand for 7 days, no less. The concrete must harden well. While the concrete is curing, periodically moisten it with water. Of course, cracks in such a small area are not as dangerous as, for example, cracks in the foundation of a house. But it's better to avoid them.

Tip: If you use brick or concrete rather than a pipe, the depth of the recess will also be 1 m.

For reliability, the racks need to be reinforced. And also, take out two or three reinforcing embeds in advance for attaching the hinges.

Stage 2 - production of swing gates

Sequence of independent device.

Installation location and appearance of swing gates

This is the starting point from which all work begins. Often the installation location affects direct influence on appearance designs.

For example, you need to install a gate in the backyard, at the entrance to the garden, or to fence off a future construction site. Then both the material and the design will be as simplified as possible.

If it is a front gate or a garage, then the costs will be higher.

Swing gate sizes

Ideally, the gate is made together with the fence. However, if you have, for example, hedge or you are expanding the driveway and need a new gate - you should measure the dimensions accurately.

Tip: Try to make swing gates in the same style as the fence.

It is important to measure the height and width of the opening for the gate. When measuring the height, keep in mind that a technical gap is usually left at the bottom of the gate. Its value depends on the coverage of access roads. If you have asphalt, tiles or concrete in the gate area, then 5-7 cm of clearance is enough. If the soil is not strengthened (grass grows) and the surface is not flat - then about 10 cm. Technical clearance is also needed to reduce the wind load, if the future gate is solid, without ventilation gaps.

It is also necessary to ensure that there is sufficient clearance between the sashes. This will level out slight displacement of the racks.

Drawing of swing gates

Having at your disposal a drawing and design diagram of swing gates, it is easy to calculate the amount of material required.

Try to make a frame for the gate so that its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the intended finishing material. This will make the installation process easier for you and avoid connecting seams on the front surface of the gate. Eg, standard width corrugated sheet PS-10 1,100 mm.

Advice. When making calculations, use the working, and not the total, width of the finishing material.

The figure shows a diagram of a frame for swing gates, which we will take as a basis.

Using this drawing as a basis, you can calculate the amount of material, attachment points and parameters of pipes and finishing materials.

In our example, the frame is welded structure. It will be made from pipe or metal profile. But you can also use wood. If, for example, you have a completely wooden gate.

The picture shows that the frame has a square appearance and internal jumpers. They are needed to give the frame rigidity.

Please note that this diagram is shown for swing gates that are not equipped with a wicket. The gate is located separately. If you decide to save space and embed the gate into the gate, consider this need when creating a drawing of the frame for swing gates.

Calculation of swing gates

For the frame shown in the diagram you will need the following material:

profile pipe 60x40 - 22 meters - for the perimeter of the frame and lintels. This pipe will be attached to the racks and support the entire structure;

profile pipe 40x20 - 15 meters - for the internal frame (perimeter reinforcement). Namely, the gate lining material will be attached to this pipe.

Usually pipes are sold linear meters, so it’s better to immediately take the sizes that you need. Among other things, this will make delivery easier for you.

Pipe cutting and grinding

At this stage, the manufacturing of frame components occurs. The pipes are cut to the required length and polished.

Grinding is needed to remove rust from pipes. If the metal is lubricated with oil, it must be removed using a solvent (usually gasoline).

Welding swing gates

When implementing welding work, remember the safety precautions. It is better when this type of work is performed by a specialist. This way the quality of welded joints will be higher. And the appearance is more beautiful.

When welding, it is important to make joints in such a way as to protect the pipe from water leakage. Otherwise, water or snow will get into it. In winter it will freeze, and with warming it will begin to expand. This will inevitably lead to expansion of the pipe walls. And, as a result, to deformation of the entire structure.

In our example, the internal pipes are welded in the form of squares. But this is not of fundamental importance.

The pitch of welding fastening of the external and internal frame (pipes 60x40 and pipes 40x20) is 250-300 mm. Maintain staggered order. So the pipes, when thermal expansion will not tear the weld seam.

Some drawings of frames for swing gates are given below.

The more stiffening ribs, the greater the wind load your gate can withstand.

If you are sewing up a fence with finishing material, then weld the pipe in the middle of the outer one. This way, it’s easier to mark the place where the casing is attached.

Primer

It doesn’t matter what material was used to make the frame - metal or wood - it needs to be primed. A primer will extend the life of the paintwork and make the application process more enjoyable.

Welding areas are primed especially carefully.

Latch and hinges for swing gates

The hinges are welded to the frame and to the racks (pillars). If the stand is made of brick, and the removal of reinforcement was not provided, then you must first attach the channel to the brick with a dowel, and then weld the loop.

Varieties of loops are shown in the photo

The valve mechanism you choose is the one you prefer. The most common and easiest to manufacture is the one shown in the photo.

Finishing of swing gates

Painting the frame

The frame must first be wiped clean from dust. Any paint is suitable for painting. It is better to apply paint with a spray gun, so it will lie more evenly, and the work will pass faster. You can also use a brush. In this case, the process will be somewhat delayed, and the paint consumption will be less.

It is better to apply paint in several layers.

Fastening finishing material

Covering the gate is possible before and after installing the frame on the posts. To do this on inner tube(40x20, in our example) we attach the sheathing. The method of fastening and fastening depends on the finishing material.

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How to cover swing gates

The following materials are used:

Corrugated sheet

Advantages - low price, wide range of colors, light weight. The disadvantages include: the difficulty of replacement (it is difficult to choose the color, because the sheet fades slightly, plus, the shade depends on the batch and manufacturer). And also, the possibility of damage during installation and high windage.

Tree

Advantages - accessibility, beautiful appearance natural wood, ease of replacement. Disadvantages: high maintenance requirements. Over time, the wood may dry out, leading to cracks.

A metal sheet

The advantage is durability. The disadvantage is significant weight.

Forging

Advantages: unlimited designs. The downside is what to do Forged gates Only specialists can do it with their own hands.

Steel mesh

Advantage - low cost, high speed work, light weight. Disadvantage - low aesthetic properties; the transparency of the fence makes the entire territory of the yard accessible for viewing.

Rabitz

The characteristics are the same. More suitable for installing technical gates.

Combined

The basis of this combination is most often forging, which allows you to give the gate any shape. And they are closed by lining the inside with wood, metal, corrugated sheets or polycarbonate. Examples of such gates in the photo

Installation of swing gates

So, the racks are ready, the frame is welded, finishing material fixed. It's time to hang the gate.

Conclusion

We hope you are convinced that installing swing gates with your own hands is not a difficult task. If you have the materials and tools, installing the gate will not take more than a week. From the installation of the pillars to the installation of the gates. And if you consider that it takes 7 days for the concrete pillars to settle, then generally a day. I wish you success!

Swing gates - photos of different device options

Fences with attractive brick posts are structures that belong to the “Premium” class. Most often they are installed in luxury houses, cottage villages and private office buildings as a fence.

Such fences not only play a practical function, but also provide a certain idea of the financial condition of the building owners.

Brick posts and fence posts with gates will look harmonious with wood, corrugated sheets and artistic metal forging. However, it often happens when brick posts and pillars are not installed over the entire area of the fence, but only as a support for the gate.

The main purpose of brick gate posts is aesthetic and supporting. The post makes fences stronger, more durable and reliable.

The masonry is often made from colored facing bricks, due to which the territory acquires an attractive appearance.

Stages, timing and methods of construction

The construction of brick columns is carried out in several stages:

Marking the territory. At this stage, it is important to take all the important measurements, as well as decide where the installation will take place. It is important to plan where exactly the gates will be located in the future, since this design will be one of the most important;
The foundation is being laid for the swing gate post;
It is very important to do right choice masonry

Exists a large number of factors that will determine the time frame within which construction will be completed. There are several of them:

Estimated dimensions of the gate post;
The place where the supports for the swing gates will be built;
The place where you plan to make the gate;
The time of year, the weather and the ability to get to the construction site by transport.

Tools for building brick pillars

A brick pillar is a man-made object that cannot be built without professional tools. These include:

Shovel for mixing solutions.
Shovel It is needed to make a mortar for a brick pillar. It can be used to easily place the components of the solution into a container, which will serve as a mixing vessel. A shovel is an excellent tool for measuring the amount of building materials.
The container in which the solution will be mixed.
Level. Used to define the horizon line so that the columns and pillars are level.
Trowel and trowel. The first one can easily measure out “doses” of cement, and the trowel will help make the masonry.
Buckets. It is better if there are at least two of them - the first will serve to carry water, and the second will serve for pebbles, which will fill the middle brick pillar.
4 metal rods with a square section of 10x10 mm. Thanks to them, the solution will be laid evenly.
Gloves.
Scaffolding. Necessary for the construction of high fences. They are used when laying the top rows as a kind of pillars on which the paver, his tools, bricks, and containers with mortar will be supported.

Foundation

The foundation is a very important part of the structure, so it must be selected depending on what type of fence will be installed. The greater the weight of the fence, the more reliable you need to calculate the foundation that will lie under the brick pillar. It is important to pay due attention to those foundation elements that will be emphasized when installing swing gates.

The main factor when choosing a foundation is the soil. For example, today it is often used strip foundation, in which a bored pile is installed in the center, and metal pipes are laid in all piles. Most effective option It is considered to lay the foundation of swing gates to a depth of half the post.

Most often, a brick pillar has a height of 2-3 meters. However, this brick structure does not have any popular standards, and therefore each specific option is unique. Everyone tries to calculate the depth of the foundation in certain proportions to the pillar. In most cases, the cross-section of the pillar is 1.5 bricks, but sometimes 2 bricks are used. The cross-sectional dimensions of the pillar in these cases will be 380x380 mm and 510x510 mm, respectively.

Nuances of brickwork

So that the brickwork of the columns is more protected from mechanical damage, metal or concrete gate caps are installed on top, and with this improvement the brick pillar only becomes more attractive. The pillars are subject to significant loads, which requires high structural strength to support the weight of swing gates. Strength can be ensured by building a pole around a steel pipe. In this case, the gate will definitely be reliable.

Brick fence posts are located at different distances from each other - from 2.5 to 9 meters. The distance will depend on the construction budget, however, experts do not recommend placing pillars at a large distance from each other, because this is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but will also negatively affect the technical performance of the structure. To ensure that the installation of your pillars does not cause you any inconvenience, you must select the correct distance between them in advance.

How should bricks be laid?

When laying bricks, the following sequence of actions should be followed:

We lay out square rods along the future perimeter of the structure;
We apply the solution inside the surface of the rods, without exceeding their level;
Using a level, check whether the solution lies evenly. If there are irregularities, it is necessary to remove or add it in the necessary places;
We lay 4 bricks around the perimeter on top of the mortar, not forgetting to bandage the seams;
We take out the rods and clean them of the solution;
We check the height with a level and, if necessary, level the surface with a trowel or manually;
We fill all the seams between the bricks with mortar;
We fill the inside of the pillar with pebbles, and then fill it with solution. You need to make sure that it is not liquid - otherwise it will spill out. The pebbles should be pierced with slab or reinforcement, allowing the solution to penetrate deep;
Each row of processes should be repeated.

Nuances you need to know when laying

The most effective will be masonry made around a metal pipe concreted into the foundation. Without metal pipes the full height of the pillar is not necessary if a gate is attached to this pillar. For the remaining pillars, you can use shorter pipes - they should protrude 30-50 cm above the foundation. Next, you need to weld a series of rods with a diameter of 1 cm, but the pillar that will support the swing gates will need to have a larger diameter.

Afterwards, bricks are laid on the cement-sand mortar along the entire perimeter of the pillar with periodic bandaging of the seams. Pebbles are poured inside and filled with solution. The core of the pillar can be concreted, and in such cases the bricks act as formwork. All these actions must be done during the construction of each row of masonry. In the three lower rows of the gate wall, it is better to use solid bricks, while in the remaining rows you can also use hollow bricks, however, with this type of brick you do not need to use a solution that is too liquid, as it will penetrate and fall out of the cracks of the brick. The work process will be much faster and more convenient if the mortar is placed under all the bricks at once.

Gates installed at the entrance to a suburban area are distinguished by a variety of designs, materials used and have different functionality. To the main types of gates for dachas and suburban areas include lifting, sliding and swing. The most common are swing gates. Compared to other types, they are quite simple to install and their installation is less expensive. Swing gates can be done from various materials, decorate with a variety of decorative elements. You can assemble and install this type of gate yourself.

In a suburban area there is a need to install gates. They enhance your safety and are certainly a beautiful addition to your home.

In order to properly manufacture and secure gates that are reliable and perform their functions well on supports, you must first make Assembly drawing(sketch) of the design.

It can be done on paper or on a computer screen. At this stage, the dimensions of the structure corresponding to the operating conditions are calculated. Determined design features devices, list and quantity necessary materials. The sketch should show the gate leaves closed and open positions for accurate display of dimensions. The main tools you will need for the job: welding machine, grinder, square, tape measure, building level.

Installation of support pillars

Methods for installing pillars: 1 - driving in; 2 - combined; 3 - concreting; 4 - butting with crushed stone.

The most important operations when installing gates are installing the supports and hanging the leaves on them. As support pillars for gates can be installed steel pipes(from ø100 mm), I-beams or channels with a flange width of at least 100 mm.

The depth of the foundation for the support pillars depends on the nature of the soil of the site, the weight of the canvases and must be at least 1.5 m. The foundation of the supports will experience constant dynamic loads when the doors move and gusts of wind. It must also withstand the impact of the soil during sudden transitions from a thawed state to a frozen state. When pouring the foundation, you should take into account the geological features of the soil, which were taken into account when constructing buildings on the site. In any case, the foundation base must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil.

Before installing supports, you should consult with specialists to select their design and size. The installation process itself is carried out in the following sequence.

Holes of a certain depth are dug for laying supports. Their diameter must be at least 10 cm greater than the diameter of the pipes or the cross-section of the pillars.
A layer of gravel, broken brick or small stone is poured into the bottom of the pits. The pillars are installed in holes and set strictly vertically in level with the installation of supports or welding of holding bars perpendicular to the supports.
The base is concreted with control of the verticality and alignment of the pillars. If the load is heavy, the foundation must be reinforced.
After installing the pillars, before hanging the sashes, you need to hold the foundation until it hardens for 28 days.

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Manufacturing of gate leaves

To manufacture the sash frame, a square (rectangular) profile with a cross-section corresponding to the weight of the structure or corners is used. Corners must have shelves 40 mm wide. Gate leaves can be made from sheet iron or mesh. At preliminary calculations it is necessary to determine what will be required additional elements(gate, hinges, lock, deadbolt, lock lugs, etc.). It is desirable that the doors swing 180° when opened. If possible, it is better to open the doors outward to save useful area of the site.

Corrugated sheets are most often used as a door leaf.

The door leaves are welded on a flat horizontal surface, observing the diagonals and right angles of the structure. The frames of the shutters are made according to the dimensions in the sketch, taking into account the width of the opening between them, the gaps between the panels and the distances from the support pillars. On average, the total width of the sashes is made no less than 30-35 mm less than the width of the opening. If mesh gates are provided, gussets are welded at the corners of the frame. Overlapping corner welding will make the structure stronger, but will spoil its appearance.

For the manufacture of gate leaves, a steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm is used. The sheets welded to the frame should protrude beyond the edge of the top and bottom by 1-2 cm. In the middle of the gate, the edge of the sheet of one leaf overlaps the frame of the other. To sheet material did not lead, it first grabs on the corners of the frame at the middle points of the canvases. Then, using spot tacks every 10-15 cm, the sheets are welded completely. After completion, the welds in the corners are cut off to avoid thermal deformation in the future.

For sheets made of steel sheets, if necessary, reinforcement can be made with stiffening ribs. During assembly, there should be no holes left through which moisture can get inside the structure. After assembling the structure, preliminary fitting of the sashes to the opening is done. Bars are placed under the sashes, and the correctness of the calculation of the gaps is checked. The intended location of the loops is marked with chalk.

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Welding hinges to gate leaves

The process of welding hinges to sashes and support posts requires special precision. The size and number of loops are selected depending on the weight of the canvas. It is better to hang massive collars on 6 loops. Smooth movement of the valves will be ensured by the use of bearing hinges. For the chosen one, so-called garage hinges are suitable, the rod of which has a diameter of at least 12 mm. The rod must fit into the cavity of the mating part of the hinge with minimal clearance. The presence of play can be determined by moving the hinge assembly to a bend.

Straight hinges are welded to the gate frame before installation in the following order:

the sash is laid on boards or an assembly table strictly horizontally;
applied to chalk marks top part hinge with a cavity, a flat planed board should be placed under it in order to correctly position the hinges;
a gap is maintained between it and the frame by inserting a plate of a certain thickness under half the length of the loop;
the loops are grabbed while maintaining alignment between them;
in the same way, the upper parts of the hinges are attached to the second sash.

The construction of any fence begins with the installation of the supporting part - the pillars. The more securely they are installed, the longer the fence will last under the influence of winds and bad weather. Therefore, this stage of work is the most critical and must be carried out according to technology. After familiarizing yourself with it, you can confidently place poles and build a fence with your own hands without the involvement of hired workers and equipment.

Methods of mounting supports - which one to choose?

When erecting fences, 3 methods of installing supporting structures are practiced:

direct driving into the ground;
partial concreting;
complete pouring of concrete into the underground part of the rack, including the installation of a strip foundation.

Note. In turn, partial concreting is carried out in two ways - pouring the so-called concrete collar or filling the well below the soil freezing line.

Pole installation options

Each of the listed methods used in certain conditions, depending on the quality of the soil, its saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. In addition, the choice of technique is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. Valid for solid fences important rule: they must be able to withstand wind loads well, which sometimes exceed the weight of the fence.

Load on a solid fence made of corrugated sheets

Simply driving posts into the ground allows you to speed up construction and significantly reduce its cost. In contrast to these advantages, the method has numerous disadvantages:

A stand driven into soft or loose soil (chernozem, clay, sand) will quickly become loose in the wind and tilt when solid solids are attached to it. fence sections with a large windage. The latter includes corrugated sheets, polycarbonate and various wooden boards.
If the height of the fence exceeds 2 m, then the wind will turn out the clogged post in any case, even with a transparent one air flow mesh - chain-link.
In areas with clayey, moist soil that swells at subzero temperatures, such supports will come out of the ground by 5-10 cm in the first winter. After which they will finally be tilted by the wind.
After driving, the post is not able to bear a large load in terms of mass. Metal structures or artistic forging elements cannot be attached to it.

Heavy fence made of forged elements

From the above it follows that driving in racks can be used under the following conditions:

when your site has hard or rocky soils;
driving into soft soil is possible if the height of the fence does not exceed 1.5 m, and the spans are made of mesh - chain-link or other wind-transparent material;
if it is necessary to quickly erect temporary fencing;
during the construction of wattle fences or low decorative hedges near flower beds and front gardens.

To fence the front garden, posts can be driven into the soil

Concreting will require a lot of labor, time and money. Just hardening the concrete will take you 3 weeks, not to mention buying the ingredients to prepare the mixture and finding a concrete mixer. In return you receive the following bonuses:

durability (the fence will easily stand for 30-50 years, depending on the material);
proper concreting is used on all types of soil;
reinforcement with concrete mixture is suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones (stone, brick, metal structures, forging).

Fence with brick pillars

Note. Racks cannot be concreted in swampy, oversaturated soil. But in such situations, driving will not help; you need to build a pile-screw foundation.

It turns out that the choice of installation method for racks depends on the conditions in each specific case. Hammering saves time and money, but is not always applicable. Concrete is used everywhere and provides reliability and durability for any structure, although it is more expensive. On stable, dry soils, construction costs are reduced by partially concreting the supports.

Materials for pillars

For installation of a fence erected around land plot, the following types of pillars are used:

from wooden beam and logs;
from various rolled metal products - profile and round pipes, channels and angles;
made of brick and concrete.

Wooden fence

Reference. Channels and angles are used either singly or double, welded into a “box”.

Usually, wooden racks are installed during the construction of a fence made of slabs, boards or thin logs (picket fence). They are also convenient to use together with plasticized mesh or chain-link mesh. The advantages of wooden poles are:

low price;
ease of processing and fastening of fence sections;
fracture strength of the material, lack of flexibility, like metal;
The supports can be given a wonderful appearance using wood carving, varnishing or painting.

Palisade with wooden supports

The use of wood as fence posts has one significant disadvantage - the material quickly deteriorates from exposure to weather conditions. To prevent a wooden stand from rotting in 10-15 years, it will have to be treated with an antiseptic and periodically painted. There is also a danger of the fence catching fire from an accidentally thrown cigarette butt.

Rolled metal - universal solution for the construction of various fences, but also more expensive. Although steel pipes also need to be protected from corrosion, they will last much longer than wooden racks. Sections made of various materials, from wood to forging elements, can be attached to metal. Steel posts are also used in the construction of permanent fences - they serve as the core of a brick pillar, to which wickets and gates are subsequently welded.

Steel pipe serves as a frame for brick supports

Reference. For quick assembly of fences made of corrugated sheets and polycarbonate, we have them on sale. ready-made kits made of metal profile pipes And fastening elements to them.

Euro fence with concrete pillars

Concrete pillars are installed complete with a so-called Eurofence, consisting of individual slabs decorated with a relief pattern. In other cases, using concrete supports is impractical due to the high price and complexity of installation (the racks are quite heavy). But they also “live” for a long time - up to 50 years, and are not afraid of winds, precipitation and temperature changes.

Selection of columns by section

timber with a section of 10 x 10 cm, minimum - 8 x 10 cm;
log with a diameter from 100 to 150 mm;
for a stockade it is better to take round timber maximum size- 15 cm.

For pillars, it is advisable to select logs of the same diameter

When selecting wooden supports, you should pay attention not only to the cross-section, but also to find out the type of wood. Birch and poplar are of little use for outdoor structures because they rot quickly. The best choice in terms of price/quality ratio - these are materials from coniferous species. They contain a significant amount of natural resins that help resist environmental influences.

Profile pipes for fence

When selecting metal poles Consider the following recommendations:

with a fence height of 2-2.5 m, take a profile pipe cross-section of 60 x 40 mm; for a one and a half meter fence, products measuring 40 x 40 mm will be used;
optimal diameter round pipe- 57 mm;
take the maximum size of corners and channels installed individually to be 90 and 160 mm, respectively.

Diagram showing pipe cross-sections

Advice. To ensure that steel supports last at least 20 years, choose rolled metal with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm.

The pillars to which the gate leaves and wicket are attached carry an increased load, so their cross-section must be larger. As a rule, a profile pipe size of 100 x 120 mm or a round pipe diameter of 109 mm is sufficient. The cross-section of the channels and angles remains unchanged, but for gates they are combined in pairs by welding into a “box”.

Calculation of basic parameters for do-it-yourself installation

Measure total length fencing using a tape measure. Determine the height of the fence for safety reasons and based on personal wishes. As practice shows, it is not economically feasible to build a continuous fence more than 2.5 m high. Optimal height, allowing you to save materials - 2 m (a six-meter pipe is divided into 3 parts).
Determine the height of the pillars. The principle is this: to create a reliable support lever in the ground, the stand must be immersed in the ground at least 1/3. If you plan to build a 2-meter fence, then at least 1 m of the support must be in the ground, then its total length will be 3 m.
Count the number of columns depending on the interval of their installation.

Fences with a height of more than 2.5 m are best made of mesh

Advice. On preparatory stage It is worth coordinating the construction with the neighbors so that later there are no disputes regarding the delimitation of plots.

It is important to choose the correct step for installing the supports, depending on the area and windage of the fence. The distance between the posts should be between 2 and 3 m. A smaller interval is not advisable from the point of view of economy, and a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure. The exact selection is made on an individual basis.

Solid fence with an optimal distance between posts of 2.5 m

Calculation example for a fenced area length of 13.4 m with a fence height of 1.5 m:

If you divide this distance into 4 sections, then the pitch of the pillars will be 3.23 m. With such a span length, the fence can be built from brick or chain-link mesh on metal posts. It is extremely undesirable to install corrugated sheets or other solid material; the racks will be shaken by the wind.
Dividing into 5 sections will give the optimal interval - 2.56 m. This suitable option for most fences, both wooden and metal.
If you divide the distance into 6 spans, then the length of each span will be 2.12 m. The reliability of such a fence will be excellent, although the cost of construction will increase. But here you can save on the cross-section of the pillars and take a smaller standard size according to the assortment.

An example of a breakdown into 4 spans

Advice. Optimal distance between the posts of a solid fence 2 m high is 2.5 m. This the best option in terms of price/reliability ratio when it comes to the most popular fencing made of corrugated sheets on metal supports.

An example of a breakdown into 5 spans

If you choose the optimal step of 2.5 m, then the construction of the fence will require 6 supports protruding 1.5 m above ground level. According to calculations, the total length of the post together with the underground part is 1.5 / 2 x 3 = 2.25 m, with a margin of 2.5 m. In total, 2.5 x 6 = 15 m of pipe or channel will be required.

Breakdown into 6 spans

Reference. Concrete Euro fences have a fixed span length of 2 m, so calculating the number of posts is not difficult.

How to install fence posts by driving

For execution construction work you will need various instruments and accessories:

measuring instruments - tape measure, liquid level;
long twine and pegs for marking;
manual or mechanized drill;
sledgehammer or portable hydraulic hammer;
bayonet shovel;
tamper

If you plan to install wooden posts, they must be treated so that they do not rot in the ground. First, cover the entire support with an antiseptic composition such as Novotex or Biosept, and then tar the underground part with molten bitumen.

Advice. The bitumen coating must adhere firmly to the surface, otherwise it will peel off when driving the post. For this reason, it is not recommended to use cold bitumen compounds and primers to protect racks.

Painted metal supports

Before installation, the underground part of the metal poles must be cleaned of rust, coated with a primer and also applied with hot resin. The operation will not take much of your time, since the bitumen hardens quite quickly.

Work order

The first stage of installation of the supporting part of the fence is marking. Stretch a string on stakes between the extreme points, and then measure along it the calculated intervals between the posts, marking their installation points. The installation technology is as follows:

At the designated points, drill wells of the calculated depth. The diameter of the drill should be 2-4 cm less than the cross-section of the post. When drilling, try to hold the tool vertically and not swing, so as not to break the walls of the hole, which will cause the post to fall in there without any driving.
Ends wooden poles It is advisable to trim them, so it is more convenient to insert them into the hole.
Compact the bottom of the well with a tamper and add some sand or small crushed stone.
Hammer the first post to the required height with a sledgehammer. Here you will need the services of an assistant who will support the end of the support and prevent it from vibrating from impacts.
Repeat the previous operation with the last post and pull a rope between them to break off the top level.
Drive in the remaining posts, focusing on the level of the string. Cover them with earth on all sides and compact it.

Marking the fence on the site

Important! In order to maintain a clear vertical when installing pillars, it must be controlled during the drilling process. It is impossible to align the support when driving if the hole is drilled crookedly. But if this happens, then you can correct the matter in the manner described below.

Photo instructions for driving in racks

When driving the column, an assistant must support it. Drilling a hole with a motor drill This is what a finished well looks like for driving
Using hammering, the frame is installed in 1 day

Installation of backfilled pillars

To implement this method, you will need medium-sized stones, broken bricks and tiles or large crushed stone. The installation procedure is as follows:

Drill or dig a hole to the required depth. It should be 10-15 cm wider than the cross-section of the support.
Compact the bottom of the hole and fill it with crushed stone. Have a helper place the post and hold it upright using a building level.
Fill the space between the soil and the stand with stones or crushed stone, compacting it periodically.
Sprinkle the installed column with soil on top and compact it.

Scheme of backfilling supports

Reference. There is an old-fashioned way to secure the support tightly using backfill. You need to make a liquid solution of clay and water and pour it between the stones into each hole. The clay will fill all the pores and, after hardening, will hold up no worse than concrete.

Video on driving posts

Instructions for concreting supports

This technology involves full or partial filling of columns with a concrete mixture of grade M100 in dry soil and M150 when the ground is wet. To calculate the amount of materials required for concreting, use the data from the table, which shows their volumes for preparing different grades of mortar.

Calculation table for concrete, cement and other ingredients of concrete mixture

Knowing the number of holes for supports and their depth, it is easy to calculate the total consumption of building materials. When fully concreting, no more than 4 standard buckets of concrete are placed in a hole 1 m deep. Additionally, prepare the following materials:

roofing felt or plastic film to isolate the concrete mixture from the ground;
sand for adding to the bottom of the well;
pieces of reinforcement or corners for anchoring.

Building materials for concreting pillars

The set of tools used is the same as for driving, only instead of a sledgehammer you will need a concrete mixer. As a last resort, you can do without it and prepare the mixture on a sheet of metal using a shovel. To fix and anchor metal posts, you need to prepare a welding machine.

How to concrete: pouring technology step by step

The first stage of work, consisting of marking and digging holes, is carried out using the technology described above. Complete concreting of pillars is carried out in the following sequence:

Compact the bottom of the hole, add sand and compact it again.
Install the support and level it vertically in two planes, using a building level.
Fix the pipe in the design position by welding the cutting corners to it so that their ends rest against the soil. If the posts are wooden, then nail strips to them or simply wedge them with large stones.
Cover the bottom of the well and earthen walls with roofing material or film. The goal is to prevent the milk from leaking out of the concrete, which reduces the strength of the latter.
Prepare a concrete mixture and place it in a hole with a stand. During the pouring process, make sure that it does not deviate from the vertical and is level.

Full concreting of the rack

Advice. In the first 20 min. after pouring, when the concrete gives away excess water, the position of the pillar can be adjusted in order to align the vertical.

Vertical adjustment after concreting

Complete hardening concrete mixture occurs after 3 weeks. Until then, it is not allowed to carry out work that could load the columns. The most you can do is clean them and paint them.

Fixing the stand with supports Using a rope is more convenient to determine the installation point of the pole Preparation of concrete mixture

About partial concreting: what depth to bury and what is the distance between the columns

If the soil on your site is dry and not free-flowing, then it is pointless to spend materials on a full fill. It is enough to make a concrete collar for each column using the following technology:

Dig a hole half the calculated depth, but make it 20-25 cm wider than the section of the rack.
Take ready-made support and drive it in the middle of the bottom of the hole to the required depth. Compact the soil around the pipe and add sand.

The method is convenient in that it is easier to align a post halfway into the ground vertically and fix it in this position. But this technology, like complete concreting, is not applicable in heaving soils. In severe frosts, the soil will push the entire structure out. To prevent this from happening, use the following instructions:

Find out exactly what the freezing depth of the ground is in your area. Calculate the total height of the supports using the following formula: above-ground part + freezing depth + 0.5 m.
Prepare a mixture of crushed stone and sand to replace the heaving soil around the post.
Drill a hole so that the drill goes 0.6-0.7 m below the border of the frozen soil. Make a 10 cm layer of sand and compact it.
Install the support and secure it in a vertical position.
Fill the hole with concrete to a height of 0.5 m.
After the monolith has set, fill the well to the top with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.

Concrete is poured no higher than the frost line, and then crushed stone is poured

Note. Considering that in some regions of the Russian Federation the soil freezes to 2-2.5 m, the fence posts will be very long and the well will be deep. Therefore, the choice of material for pillars is small; only steel pipe is suitable.

When the moisture-saturated soil is replaced with crushed stone, and the concrete monolith is located below the freezing line, the forces of frost heaving will not be able to push your support out of the ground.

How to properly concrete pillars - video

As you can see, the technology for installing fence posts does not contain any particular difficulties. Also not required special equipment to carry out the work, but if you have a concrete mixer or hydraulic hammer, things will go much faster. It is better to build a fence with an assistant, since most operations are inconvenient to perform alone.

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